These biscuits are as authentic as they come, from a time when lard from the family’s hog and milk from the backyard cow were common fare. The dough can be rolled and cut with a biscuit cutter or dropped from a wooden spoon. Make these for a big family supper, as biscuits are best when eaten fresh from the oven. Makes 1 dozen
⅓ cup plus 1 tablespoon lard, cold and coarsely chopped, plus more for greasing the pan
2½ cups all-purpose unbleached flour
3 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
1 cup milk
1 tablespoon salted butter, melted (optional)
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Grease a baking sheet with lard and set aside.
Place 2 cups of flour, the baking powder, and the salt in a large mixing bowl; whisk together. Using a pastry blender, work the lard into the flour mixture until it resembles coarse crumbs. Add the milk and stir.
On a sheet of wax paper, sprinkle the remaining ½ cup of flour. Turn the dough mixture onto the wax paper and knead for 5 minutes. Roll out the dough to a 1-inch thickness and cut with a biscuit cutter; alternatively, drop the dough using a large spoon and pat down onto the prepared baking sheet spaced 1 inch apart. For color, brush the biscuits with melted butter, if desired. Bake for 20 minutes, or until the tops are golden brown.
These jumbo-sized biscuits are aptly named because the combination of working yeast, baking powder, baking soda, cream of tartar, and yogurt engages in a bubbling chemical reaction that fills the dough with carbon dioxide, causing them to rise “sky high.” Make them when you have guests to impress or lots of hungry mouths to feed. Serve with butter, honey, or jam. Makes 1 dozen
½ cup lard, cold and coarsely chopped, plus more for greasing the pan
2¼ teaspoons active dry yeast
¼ cup warm water (105° to 115°F)
2½ cups all-purpose unbleached flour
2 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
¾ teaspoon cream of tartar
1½ teaspoons baking soda
1 cup plain yogurt
Preheat the oven to 425°F. Grease a baking sheet with lard and set aside.
In a small bowl, dissolve the yeast in the warm water. Let stand until foamy, 5 to 10 minutes.
In a large bowl, mix together the flour, sugar, baking powder, salt, cream of tartar, and baking soda. Using a pastry blender or two knives, cut the lard into the flour mixture until coarse crumbs form.
Make a well in the center of the flour mixture; add the yogurt and yeast all at once. Toss with a fork until the dry ingredients are moistened. Do not overmix.
On a floured surface, roll the dough to a ¾-inch thickness using a floured rolling pin. Cut the biscuits using a floured 2½-inch round biscuit cutter. Gather the trimmings and repeat.
Place the biscuits 1 inch apart on the prepared baking sheet. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes, until puffed and golden. Leave the biscuits on the baking sheet and cool for 5 minutes on a wire rack. Serve warm.
These delicious little rolls are so much more than biscuits. Bread flour gives them a chewy texture and crisp crust, and the addition of cheese and buttermilk introduces extra protein and makes for a satisfying side dish or snack. Make them with Monterey Jack or cheddar cheese for a brunch or potluck. Makes 2 dozen
¼ cup lard, cold and coarsely chopped, plus more for greasing the pan
2½ cups bread flour
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon baking soda
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 cup buttermilk
1 cup grated cheese of your choice
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Grease a baking sheet with lard and set aside.
Sift together the flour, salt, baking soda, and baking powder in a large bowl. Using a pastry blender, cut in the lard until you have a texture resembling coarse crumbs. Add the buttermilk and mix lightly with a fork.
Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface. Knead lightly and roll out to a ¼-inch thickness using a floured rolling pin. Sprinkle the cheese evenly over the dough and roll up (like a jelly roll). Cut into ¾-inch-thick slices. Place, cut side down, 1 inch apart on the prepared baking sheet and bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until puffed and golden.
The concept of freezer biscuits is a solid one—make biscuits one day, then eat them all month, for that’s how long they’ll keep. Just pop the number of frozen biscuits you desire into a hot oven, and you’ll have crisp and flaky homemade biscuits in no time at all. Better yet, there are no leftovers that would turn soggy or go to waste. Makes 1 dozen
2 cups all-purpose unbleached flour
4 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon cream of tartar
¼ teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons sugar
½ cup lard, cold and coarsely chopped
⅔ cup milk
1 egg, beaten
Butter and honey, for serving
In a large bowl, mix together the flour, baking powder, cream of tartar, salt, and sugar. Using a pastry blender or two knives, cut in the lard until it resembles coarse crumbs.
Beat together the milk and egg; add to the flour mixture and stir until a ball forms. Turn out the dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead gently for a few minutes.
Line a baking sheet with wax paper and set aside. Using a rolling pin, roll out the dough to a ¾-inch thickness and cut with a biscuit cutter. Place the biscuits on the prepared baking sheet and cover with plastic wrap. Freeze the biscuits until solid (about 6 hours), then transfer to a zip-top plastic bag. Freeze for up to 1 month.
To use: Preheat the oven to 425°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and on it place the frozen biscuits 1 inch apart. Do not thaw before baking. Bake for 20 minutes, until puffed and golden brown. Serve warm with butter and honey.
What comes out of Pandora’s box? The answer is “just about everything,” thus the perfect name for this bread. The variety of fruit—pumpkin, apricots, dates, plus applesauce—ensures a wonderfully moist and dense loaf (each weighing about 2 pounds), and a delightfully crisp crust is achieved as a result of the lard. This bread smells like pumpkin pie as it bakes and will draw a crowd to the kitchen! Serve with butter and a drizzle of honey, or a selection of cheeses for a more substantial snack. Makes 2 loaves
⅔ cup lard, softened, plus more for greasing the pan
1¼ cups granulated sugar
1¼ cups brown sugar, packed
4 large eggs
1 cup applesauce
1 cup pureed pumpkin
2 cups all-purpose unbleached flour
1½ cups whole-wheat flour
2 teaspoons baking soda
½ teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon cinnamon
¼ teaspoon mace
¼ teaspoon nutmeg
¼ teaspoon cloves
⅔ cup chopped dried apricots
⅔ cup chopped pitted dates
1 cup chopped walnuts
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease two 9 by 5-inch loaf pans with lard and set aside.
In a large bowl, beat the lard and the sugars with an electric mixer on medium speed until well blended. Add the eggs, one at a time, and beat until thoroughly mixed. Beat in the applesauce and pumpkin.
In a separate bowl, stir together the flours, baking soda, baking powder, salt, and spices. Stir the flour mixture into the applesauce mixture, mixing just until the flour is moistened, then beat on low speed until well blended. Stir in the apricots, dates, and walnuts. Spoon the batter equally into the prepared pans.
Bake for 1 hour, or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean and the bread just begins to pull away from the sides of the pan.
Let cool in the pans for 10 minutes, then turn the loaves out onto a wire rack. Serve warm or at room temperature. To store, wrap tightly with plastic and refrigerate for up to 1 week or freeze.
BEHIND THE TIMES Fresh homemade bread, spread with lard and sprinkled with sugar, makes a delicious sandwich. After remembering this from my childhood, I Googled “lard sandwich” and found that I am way behind the times. There were so many postings, I got lost in a netherworld of the “wonderful uses of lard.”
Donald Brooks, Ringgold, Georgia
Here’s a classic sandwich bread you’ll make over and over again. The buttermilk adds tang, and keeps the bread tender, light, and moist. Use one loaf while fresh, then slice and freeze the other for future use. If you’re lucky enough to have access to fresh raw buttermilk, be sure to scald it (heat to just shy of boiling) in the first step since it contains an enzyme that interferes with yeast development; scalding is not necessary for pasteurized milk. Makes 2 loaves
1 cup buttermilk
3 tablespoons sugar
2⅓ teaspoons salt
⅓ cup lard, softened, plus more for greasing the bowl and pan
2¼ teaspoons active dry yeast
1 cup warm water
¼ teaspoon baking soda
5½ to 5¾ cups all-purpose unbleached flour
In a saucepan, slowly heat the buttermilk to simmering. Remove from the heat and allow to cool for 5 minutes. In a small bowl, combine the buttermilk, sugar, salt, and lard; set aside.
In a large mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and stir until dissolved. Stir in the buttermilk mixture. Add the baking soda and 3 cups of flour; beat on medium-low speed until smooth. Mix in enough of the remaining flour to make a stiff dough.
Turn out the dough onto a lightly floured board and knead for 10 minutes, until it’s smooth and elastic. Place the dough in a lightly greased bowl, turning once to coat, and cover with a towel. Let rise in a warm place for about 1 hour, or until doubled in bulk.
Grease two 9 by 5-inch loaf pans with lard. Cut the dough in half, shape into logs, and place in the prepared pans. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise in a warm place (70° to 78°F) for about 1 hour, until the dough peeks above the pan.
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Bake the loaves for 45 minutes until golden brown, or until an internal temperature of 195°F is reached. Remove from the oven and turn out onto a wire rack to cool completely.
LARD ON BREAD I was raised on farms, and I learned to cook and bake with lard. My pie crust was always flaky. My ex-mother-in-law asked me to show her how I made mine, though I had always thought her pies were delicious. She always lived on a ranch and cooked with lard.
I love lard spread on a slice of bread and seasoned with salt and black pepper.
I know this has nothing to do with cooking or baking, but we also used lard for hand cream, and it made our skin very soft.
Mary Nida Smith, Lakeview, Arkansas
The addition of whole-wheat flour adds some heft and enhances the nutty taste of this classic quick bread. Be sure to use heavily speckled bananas (almost black) when making banana bread or the taste will be decidedly bland. Very ripe, heavily speckled bananas contain three times as much fructose (the sweetest sugar in fruit) than less spotty ones. Serve warm with butter, cream cheese, or even maple syrup. Makes 1 loaf
½ cup lard, softened, plus more for greasing the pan
1½ cups self-rising flour
1 cup whole-wheat flour
½ teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon baking powder
¼ teaspoon salt
½ cup brown sugar, packed
2 eggs, beaten
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1½ cups mashed bananas (3 to 4 extra-ripe medium bananas)
½ cup chopped pecans
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a 9 by 5-inch loaf pan with lard and set aside.
In a large bowl, combine the flours, baking soda, baking powder, and salt; set aside.
In a separate large bowl, cream the lard with the brown sugar using a large rubber spatula until a thick paste is formed. Add the eggs and vanilla and mix well. Fold in the bananas and pecans. Add the flour mixture and stir until just moistened. Do not overmix.
Spoon the batter into the prepared pan and bake for 1 hour, until golden brown and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Cool on a wire rack.
Fry bread is the Native American counterpart to Mexican tortillas. Thicker and more substantial than tortillas, fry bread is delicious and filling, and made with lard and dry milk, truly authentic, as Indians did not commonly have access to fresh milk. To substitute fresh milk in this recipe, use 2 to 2½ cups warmed milk and omit the water. Serve with a selection of taco fillings—seasoned meat, cheese, onions, lettuce, salsa, and beans—for a fun twist on “taco night.” Makes 1 dozen
4 cups all-purpose unbleached flour
1 heaping teaspoon baking powder
¾ cup instant dry milk
1 teaspoon salt
2 to 2½ cups warm water
Lard, for frying
In a large bowl, mix together the flour, baking powder, dry milk, and salt. Add the warm water and mix, using just enough to form a soft dough; cover and set aside for 2 to 3 hours.
Turn the dough onto a floured board and knead for 1 minute. Shape the dough into a log and cut into 12 even pieces. Using a rolling pin, roll out into 5-inch rounds.
Heat the lard to 360°F in a cast-iron skillet ½ inch deep. Fry the dough pieces, one at a time, for 1 to 2 minutes on each side until lightly browned. Drain and cool on paper towels.
Make this sweet-tart quick bread for brunch or midafternoon snacks. With quick breads, the key is to never overmix the batter; overmixing results in tough bread and muffins. Mix just enough to incorporate the flour but not so much that you end up with a smooth batter (craggy is good in this case). For best results, stir—don’t beat. Makes 1 loaf
¼ cup melted lard, slightly cooled, plus more for greasing the pan
3 cups all-purpose unbleached flour
3 teaspoons baking powder
1½ teaspoons salt
1 cup sugar
1 cup fresh coarsely chopped cranberries
1 tablespoon grated orange or lemon zest
1 egg, slightly beaten
1½ cups milk
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a 9 by 5-inch loaf pan with lard and set aside.
In a large bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder, salt, and ½ cup of sugar. In another bowl, mix the cranberries and zest with the remaining ½ cup of sugar; add to the dry ingredients and mix well.
In a separate bowl, combine the egg, milk, and lard; add to the cranberry mixture all at once, stirring just enough to moisten the dry ingredients. Spoon into the prepared loaf pan and bake for 1 hour, until golden brown and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Cool completely before slicing.
Reminiscent of pineapple upside-down cake, this quick bread is just as delicious when served for dessert, with a dollop of homemade vanilla ice cream or whipped cream alongside. We love the sweet and mild taste of pecans in this recipe, but whatever nuts you have in the pantry will do just fine. Makes 1 loaf
¼ cup lard, softened, plus more for greasing the pan
¾ cup brown sugar, packed
1 egg
2 cups all-purpose unbleached flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon salt
½ (6-ounce) can frozen orange juice concentrate, thawed
1 cup crushed pineapple, undrained
½ cup chopped nuts of your choice
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a 9 by 5-inch loaf pan with lard and set aside.
In a large bowl, cream together the brown sugar and lard with a hand mixer on low speed; add the egg and beat well.
In a separate bowl, stir together the flour, baking soda, and salt. Alternately add the dry ingredients and the orange juice concentrate to the brown sugar mixture, mixing well after each addition. Stir in the pineapple and nuts.
Spoon the mixture into the prepared pan and bake 50 to 60 minutes, until golden brown and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Cool completely before slicing.
Plain old corn bread is a family favorite, but this spicy dressed-up version will delight and surprise them. Filled with chunks of corn and jalapeños, and topped with melted cheese, this side dish is almost a meal in itself. It’s versatile enough to serve with a bowl of spicy chili on a cold day, or a crisp, veggie-filled garden salad on a hot one. For a bit of sweetness to temper the heat of the jalapeños, serve with honeyed butter. Makes 9 servings
½ cup lard, melted and cooled slightly, plus more for greasing the pan
1 cup finely ground cornmeal
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
3 teaspoons baking powder
⅔ cup buttermilk
2 eggs
1 (8.5-ounce) can cream-style corn
1 (4-ounce) can chopped jalapeños
1 cup grated cheddar cheese
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease an 8 by 8-inch glass baking dish with lard and set aside.
Place the cornmeal, salt, sugar, and baking powder in a large bowl and whisk together. Add the buttermilk, eggs, lard, and corn and mix well (the batter will be thin).
Pour half the batter into the prepared baking dish. Distribute the jalapeños evenly over the batter and cover with half of the cheese. Pour the rest of the batter on top and sprinkle with the remaining cheese.
Bake for 30 minutes, until golden brown and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Cool for 10 minutes before slicing.
In the old days, doughnuts didn’t carry the stigma they do today. Homemade with pure ingredients and fried in lard from the family’s hog, they were a Sunday treat after church. Of course, one can’t eat doughnuts every day, nor would we ever want to eat the store-bought variety because of their trans fats and preservatives. Treat your family to these delicious doughnuts that call to mind those apple cider doughnuts so popular at orchards in fall. Makes 3½ dozen
5 cups all-purpose unbleached flour
4 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon nutmeg
1 teaspoon cinnamon
¼ teaspoon mace
¼ cup lard, softened, plus more for frying
1 cup granulated sugar
3 eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 cup applesauce
½ cup buttermilk
GLAZE
2 cups confectioners’ sugar
¼ cup apple cider
In a large bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and spices. Set aside.
In a separate large bowl, cream together the lard, granulated sugar, and eggs. Beat in the vanilla, applesauce, and buttermilk. Add the flour mixture, 1 cup at a time, beating until smooth after each addition. The dough will be tacky and moist—a cross between quick bread batter and cookie dough. Cover and chill for 1 hour.
Turn the dough onto a lightly floured board and roll out to a ⅜-inch thickness. Cut into pieces with a 2½-inch doughnut cutter.
In a cast-iron kettle, heat the lard to 2 inches deep and 350°F. Using a metal spatula, slide 3 to 4 doughnuts into the lard at a time and fry for 1 minute on each side, until golden brown all over. Remove from the fat with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Bring the lard back to temperature between each batch.
To prepare the glaze, whisk together the confectioners’ sugar and apple cider until smooth. After the doughnuts have cooled for 5 to 10 minutes, dip the tops in the glaze.
If you’d rather not deal with deep-fat frying, you don’t have to forgo homemade doughnuts— try this baked version. An old-fashioned canvas pastry cloth and rolling pin cover will help you handle the sticky dough; none of the modern gadgets—such as ice-filled rolling pins or silicone mats—do a better job. To use these tools, just coat the cloth and stretchy rolling pin sleeve with flour and you’re ready to go. The fabric prevents the dough from sticking by absorbing the excess flour. Makes 2 dozen
4½ teaspoons active dry yeast
¼ cup warm water
1½ cups milk (heated, then cooled to lukewarm)
½ cup sugar, plus more for dusting
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon nutmeg
¼ teaspoon cinnamon, plus more for dusting
2 eggs
⅓ cup lard, melted and cooled, plus more for greasing the pan
4½ cups all-purpose unbleached flour
¼ cup salted butter, melted
Dissolve the yeast in the warm water and let stand for 5 minutes.
Add the milk, sugar, salt, nutmeg, cinnamon, eggs, lard, and 2 cups of the flour. Beat with an electric mixer on low speed for 30 seconds, scraping the bowl constantly. Beat for 2 minutes at medium speed, scraping the bowl occasionally. Stir in the remaining 2½ cups of flour, scraping the sides of the bowl, until you have a smooth, elastic dough. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise in a warm place until the dough is doubled in size, 50 to 60 minutes.
Grease a baking sheet with lard and set aside.
Turn the dough onto a well-floured pastry cloth; roll it around lightly to coat with flour (the dough will be soft and tacky). With a floured, cloth-covered rolling pin, gently roll out the dough to a ½-inch thickness. Cut with a floured 2½-inch doughnut cutter. Lift the doughnuts carefully with a spatula and place 2 inches apart on the prepared baking sheet. Brush the doughnut tops with melted butter. Cover with plastic wrap and set in a warm spot to rise until doubled in size, about 20 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 425°F. Bake the doughnuts for 8 to 10 minutes, or until golden brown. Remove from the oven and immediately brush with the remaining melted butter; allow to cool for 1 to 2 minutes.
Place some sugar and a pinch of cinnamon in a paper bag; shake to combine. Place the cooled doughnuts, one at a time, inside the bag and shake to coat well.
DOUGHNUTS IN LARD Call me stubborn, but I still fry my homemade doughnuts in lard. When our children were young, we raised pigs, and I would render the fat and use it for cooking. As the world changed, and we used less lard in regular cooking, I would still save it for doughnuts. The rest of the lard I would use to make soap.
My children raise pigs now, but they do not use the fat, so I have them save it for me, and I render it to make soap. I help with a mission in Uganda, and I use the lard to make soap to send over there. And I like it for myself, as well: Homemade soap lasts so much longer than store-bought soap.
I used to make biscuits with lard; they were snow white and very light. Now I make squash doughnuts, sour-milk doughnuts (my mother got the recipe from the Grit newspaper), and our favorite, raised glazed doughnuts. I only make them when the whole family is around, so we can enjoy them warm.
Jan Wood, Bremen, Maine
If you’ve got some leftover mashed potatoes, cake doughnuts are a delicious (and creative) way to use them up. Potatoes help baked goods retain moisture so you’ll end up with light and fluffy, irresistibly tender doughnuts. You won’t taste anything reminiscent of potatoes, but the starch adds a bit of richness. For a variation, substitute pureed pumpkin for the potatoes and roll the fried doughnuts in cinnamon sugar. Makes 5 dozen
6 cups all-purpose unbleached flour, sifted
7 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon nutmeg
3 eggs
2 cups sugar, plus more for dusting
1½ cups mashed potatoes (with no added milk or butter)
6 tablespoons lard, melted, plus more for frying
¾ cup milk
In a large bowl, sift together the sifted flour, baking powder, salt, and nutmeg.
In a separate bowl, beat the eggs until the yolks and whites are mixed, then beat in the sugar, potatoes, and melted lard until well mixed. Stir in the milk. Add the dry ingredients, mixing just until all the flour is moistened (the dough will be tacky and moist). Cover with plastic wrap and chill for 1 hour or longer.
Turn the dough onto a lightly floured board and roll out to a ½-inch thickness. Cut the dough into pieces with a 2½-inch doughnut cutter.
In a cast-iron kettle, heat the lard to 1 inch deep and 350°F. Using a metal spatula, slide 3 to 4 doughnuts into the lard at a time and fry for 1 minute on each side, until golden brown all over. Remove from the lard with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Bring the lard back to temperature between each batch.
Place some sugar on a large plate. When the doughnuts have cooled for 1 to 2 minutes, roll them in sugar and place on a serving plate.
The addition of cinnamon and nutmeg spices up these doughnuts, or try substituting other flavors such as cardamom or allspice. If you can get your hands on Snow White Non-Melting Sugar (sold online by King Arthur Flour), treat yourself. It won’t melt or turn gummy and it makes for a long-lasting coating, though these doughnuts probably won’t last long. Makes 3 dozen
3½ cups all-purpose unbleached flour
1 teaspoon salt
5 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon cinnamon
½ teaspoon nutmeg
2 tablespoons lard, softened, plus more for frying
¾ cup granulated sugar
2 eggs
¾ cup milk
1 cup confectioners’ sugar
In a large bowl, sift together the flour, salt, baking powder, cinnamon, and nutmeg. Set aside.
Cream the lard and granulated sugar together; add the eggs and milk, and beat on low speed. Add the flour mixture, 1 cup at a time, beating until smooth after each addition (the dough will be tacky and moist). Cover with plastic wrap and chill for at least 1 hour.
Turn the dough onto a lightly floured board and roll out to a ⅜-inch thickness. Cut the dough into pieces with a 2½-inch doughnut cutter; cover loosely with plastic wrap and let stand for 15 minutes.
In a cast-iron kettle, heat the lard to 1 inch deep and 375°F. Using a metal spatula, slide 3 to 4 doughnuts into the lard at a time and fry for 1 minute on each side, until golden brown all over. Remove from the lard with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Bring the lard back to temperature between each batch.
Place the confectioners’ sugar in a paper bag. Once the doughnuts have cooled for 1 to 2 minutes, place 1 doughnut at a time inside the bag; shake to coat well.
When berries are in season and abundant, sometimes it’s a chore to figure out something creative to make with them other than cobblers or crisps. Bake them up in these delicious breakfast muffins for something different. You can even substitute raspberries and blackberries—just choose firmer fruits for the latter and make sure to dry them well before stirring into the batter. Serve with fresh butter and preserves. Makes 12
¼ cup lard, softened, plus more for greasing the pan
2 cups all-purpose unbleached flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
¼ cup unsalted butter, softened
½ cup sugar
1 egg, beaten
1 cup milk
1 cup fresh blueberries, washed and dried
1 cup fresh strawberries, washed, dried, stemmed, and quartered
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Lightly grease 12 muffin cups with lard or line with paper baking cups; set aside.
In a medium bowl, sift the flour with the baking powder and salt; set aside.
In a large bowl, cream the butter with the lard and sugar; add the egg and beat on medium speed until light and fluffy. Alternately add the flour mixture and the milk to the lard mixture, stirring by hand after each addition until just moistened. Fold in the blueberries and strawberries. Do not overmix.
Spoon the batter into the prepared muffin cups, filling two-thirds full. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until golden and a toothpick inserted in the center of a muffin comes out clean. Cool completely before serving.
If you like oatmeal–raisin cookies, you’ll love these easy muffins. The turbinado sugar and cinnamon topping give these a streusel-like, crunchy bite. The oats and brown sugar contribute a palate-pleasing butterscotch flavor. Serve with butter and a drizzle of maple syrup. Makes 12
¼ cup lard, cold and coarsely chopped, plus more for greasing the pan
1 cup all-purpose unbleached flour
3 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
1 cup quick-cooking oats
1 egg
1 cup milk
½ cup brown sugar, packed
½ cup raisins
¼ cup turbinado or raw sugar
¼ teaspoon cinnamon
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Lightly grease 12 muffin cups with lard or line with paper baking cups; set aside.
In a large bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder, and salt. With a pastry blender, cut in the lard until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Stir in the oats.
In a separate large bowl, combine the egg, milk, and brown sugar; beat on low speed for 1 minute. Stir the egg mixture into the dry ingredients. Add the raisins and stir, being careful not to overmix.
Spoon the batter into the prepared muffin cups, filling two-thirds full. Combine the turbinado sugar and cinnamon in a small bowl; sprinkle evenly over each muffin. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until golden brown and a toothpick inserted in the center of a muffin comes out clean. Cool completely before serving.
An Easter tradition in historically Christian countries, hot cross buns are sweet, yeast-leavened rolls made with spices and dried fruit. The cross piped across the top with icing is a symbol of the crucifixion. For a different take on this classic, substitute dried cranberries or cherries (or a combination) for the raisins. Serve hot cross buns with butter and cheese. Makes 16
¾ cup warm milk
¼ cup plus 1 teaspoon granulated sugar
2¼ teaspoons active dry yeast
3¼ to 3½ cups all-purpose unbleached flour
1 teaspoon salt
1½ teaspoons cinnamon
½ teaspoon allspice
4 tablespoons lard, softened, plus more for greasing the pans
2 eggs, at room temperature
¾ cup raisins
2 teaspoons grated orange zest
GLAZE
1 egg
1 tablespoon milk
ICING
1 teaspoon milk
3 to 4 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar
In a small bowl, stir together ¼ cup of warm milk and 1 teaspoon of sugar. Sprinkle the yeast over the milk and let sit for 5 to 10 minutes, until foamy.
In a large bowl, whisk together 3 cups of flour, the salt, cinnamon, allspice, and the remaining ¼ cup of sugar. Create a well in the flour and add the yeast mixture, lard, eggs, and the remaining ½ cup of warm milk. Using a large rubber spatula, mix the ingredients well. The mixture should be tacky and sticky. Stir in the raisins and orange zest.
Turn the dough onto a floured board and sprinkle a little flour over the top. Knead the dough, sprinkling more flour (1 tablespoon at a time), incorporating all the flour after each addition, and working in as much of the remaining ½ cup as possible. The dough should end up being slightly tacky but no longer completely sticking to your fingers. Place the dough ball in a greased bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Set in a warm place to rise for 2 hours, until doubled in size.
Turn the dough onto a floured board and punch down. Roll the dough into a log shape and cut it into 2 halves. Roll each half into a log, then cut each half into 8 equal pieces. Form the pieces into mounds. Grease two baking sheets with lard and place the buns on them 1½ inches apart (8 per sheet). Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let sit at room temperature to rise again, until the mounds have doubled in size, 30 to 45 minutes.
Using a very sharp knife or razor blade, score a cross pattern on the top of each bun (make deep cuts, or the pattern won’t be noticeable after baking).
To prepare the glaze, whisk together the egg and milk. Using a pastry brush, brush the glaze over each bun.
Place the oven racks in the upper-middle and lower-middle positions. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Bake both sheets at once for 10 to 12 minutes, until the buns are lightly browned. Remove from the oven and let cool on the pan for a few minutes, then transfer the buns to a wire rack to cool completely.
To prepare the icing, whisk together the milk and the confectioners’ sugar. Add more sugar until you have a consistency similar to a thick liquid or a thin paste. Place the icing in a plastic zip-top bag. Snip off a small piece (about ⅛ inch) from the corner of the bag and pipe the cross pattern on each bun.
You’d never guess from the name, but vinegar rolls are an old-time version of cinnamon rolls. The vinegar-and-sugar mixture forms a thick syrup in the bottom of the pan. By the time they’re done cooking, the vinegar will have evaporated, leaving just a hint of tartness in the syrup. Serve hot with a pitcher of heavy cream, just like grandma did. Makes 12
⅓ cup lard, cold and coarsely chopped, plus more for greasing the pan
¾ cup apple cider vinegar
1½ cups water
1¼ cups sugar
4 teaspoons cinnamon
2 cups all-purpose unbleached flour
3 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
¾ cup milk
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Lightly grease a deep 13 by 9-inch baking dish with lard and set aside.
In a heavy saucepan, combine the vinegar, water, 1 cup of sugar, and 2 teaspoons of cinnamon. Cook over low heat, stirring continually, until the sugar dissolves; increase the heat to medium and cook for 20 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow to cool slightly.
In a large bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder, and salt. Cut in the lard until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Stir in the milk with a fork until a soft dough forms.
Turn the dough onto a floured board and roll out into a rectangle about ¼ inch thick. In a small bowl, combine the remaining ¼ cup of sugar and the remaining 2 teaspoons of cinnamon; evenly sprinkle the mixture over the surface of the dough. Dot with 2 tablespoons of the butter. Starting with the longer side, roll up the dough. Cut crosswise into slices about 1¼ inches thick. Place the rolls in the prepared baking dish and dot with the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter.
Evenly pour the hot vinegar mixture over the rolls. Bake for 30 to 40 minutes, until puffed and golden and the liquid has thickened to a syrup. Remove from the oven and loosen the rolls from the sides of the pan. Turn the pan of rolls upside down onto a serving platter so the syrup runs down and coats the rolls. Serve hot, fresh from the oven.
MA’S WONDERFUL BISCUITS I remember my Grandmother Viola Johnson’s wonderful biscuits. She always made them with lard that she rendered herself. Her biscuits were the best ever.
Grandmother had ten children and many grandchildren, and she always had some of her wonderful biscuits in the warming cabinet of her woodstove, with homemade butter on the table to go with them.
Everyone related called her “Ma,” and she made every one of us feel loved. I will never forget my grandmother. She died in 1970, but she is still my favorite cook, and not just because of her wonderful lard biscuits.
J. Steve Johnson,
Hiddenite, North Carolina
The attached picture of Ma and me was probably taken in the spring of 1947.
These basic yeasted rolls are made with potatoes—beloved for the soft and fluffy texture they impart and the slightly sweet-and-sour flavor. They’re “everlasting” because you can keep the dough in the refrigerator for up to one week. Bake them all at once for a crowd, or pinch off just what you need and serve them all week with supper. Makes 3 dozen
2¼ teaspoons active dry yeast
3 cups lukewarm water
1 cup mashed potatoes (without added butter or milk), lukewarm
1 cup lard, melted and cooled to lukewarm
1 cup sugar
1 tablespoon salt
1 teaspoon baking powder
6 to 8 cups all-purpose unbleached flour
Melted salted butter, for brushing
Butter and honey, for serving
Dissolve the yeast in the lukewarm water. In a large bowl, combine the potatoes, lard, sugar, salt, baking powder, and 3 cups of flour; add the dissolved yeast in water and stir well to combine. Cover with plastic wrap and let stand in a warm place for 30 minutes.
Turn the dough onto a floured board and knead in enough of the remaining flour to make a stiff dough. Knead for about 10 minutes until you have a smooth, elastic dough. Cover with plastic wrap and set in a warm place for about 2 hours. Then punch down and let rise again until doubled in size, about 1 hour.
At this point you can bake the rolls or refrigerate (see Note) the dough for use within 7 days.
To bake, roll into balls about 1½ inches in diameter. Grease a deep baking pan with lard and place the rolls, about 1 inch apart, in it. Cover with plastic wrap and set the pan in a warm place for about 15 minutes to let the rolls rise again. Brush the tops of the rolls with melted butter. Place the rolls in a cold oven and turn the temperature to 400°F. Set the timer for 25 minutes and bake until puffed and golden brown. Serve hot with butter and honey.
NOTE: If the dough has been refrigerated, remove the desired quantity from the refrigerator 90 minutes before baking and roll into balls; bake as instructed.
If you’ve never looked over the ingredients list on a package of store-bought tortillas, you should—it’s an inch long. Forgo the plethora of additives and make your own—authentically made with lard—from pure ingredients. Serve warm with butter and honey for a snack, or with fixings for burritos or wraps for a meal. Makes 12
3 cups all-purpose unbleached flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
4 to 6 tablespoons lard, cold and coarsely chopped
1¼ cups warm water
In a large bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, and salt. Using a pastry blender, cut in the lard until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs.
Add the warm water a little at a time until the dough is soft and no longer sticky (do not use hot water).
Turn the dough onto a floured board and knead for a few minutes until it’s soft and pliable. Divide the dough evenly into 12 golf ball–sized balls. Cover with a cloth and let the dough rest for 10 minutes or longer.
Dust each ball with flour and roll out with a rolling pin or palote as thinly as possible without tearing (¹⁄16 inch or thinner).
Heat a griddle, comal, or cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. (Do not use a very hot griddle or the tortillas will cook too quickly.)
One at a time, lay a tortilla on the hot griddle. Let it brown for a few seconds on one side, then turn it over. Each side should be nicely speckled.
After browning, place the tortilla on a towel or in a tortilla warmer and cover. Serve warm.
These Southern-style hush puppies are the real deal. The buttermilk and minced onion deliver a flavor punch and help thwart their reputation for blandness. Mix up a simple dipping sauce of equal parts sour cream and mayonnaise with a few dashes of hot sauce for a crowd-pleasing appetizer—true Southern hospitality! Makes 25
2 cups finely ground cornmeal
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking powder
¼ teaspoon baking soda
1 egg, slightly beaten
½ cup water
½ cup buttermilk
½ cup minced onion
Lard, for frying
Sift together the cornmeal, salt, baking powder, and baking soda. Add the egg, water, buttermilk, and onion; mix until blended.
In a cast-iron kettle, heat the lard to 2 inches deep and 375°F. Drop the batter by teaspoonfuls into the hot lard and fry for 3 to 5 minutes until golden brown, turning once halfway through the cooking time.
Remove the hush puppies from the fat with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Allow to cool for 5 minutes before serving.
It can be difficult to achieve a tasty and fluffy whole-wheat roll, but these do that and with no more effort than recipes calling for all-purpose flour. Eggs help keep the rolls moist inside and the melted lard will deliver a crisp, flaky crust so delicious your guests will ask for seconds and thirds. Serve hot from the oven with honeyed or herbed butter. Makes 2½ to 3 dozen
4½ teaspoons active dry yeast
2 cups lukewarm water
½ cup sugar
3 teaspoons salt
3 cups whole-wheat flour
½ cup lard, melted and cooled slightly, plus more for greasing the pan
3 eggs
3½ cups (more or less) all-purpose unbleached flour
In a large bowl, dissolve the yeast in the lukewarm water and let sit for 5 minutes.
Add the sugar, salt, and 2 cups of the whole-wheat flour and beat with an electric mixer on medium-low speed until smooth. Add the lard and eggs, and beat until well combined.
Add the remaining 1 cup of whole-wheat flour and 3 cups of the all-purpose flour and stir to form a ball. Turn the dough onto a floured board and knead until it’s soft, pliable, and easy to handle. Knead in as much of the remaining ½ cup of flour as possible.
Place the dough in a greased bowl, turning once to coat. Cover with plastic wrap and set in a warm place to rise until it’s more than doubled in size, 2 hours or longer.
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a baking sheet or two muffin tins with lard.
Pinch off the dough and shape into rolls about 1½ inches in diameter. Place on the prepared sheet or in the tins and cover with plastic wrap; set in a warm place to rise until light and airy, 20 to 30 minutes.
Uncover and bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until browned. Serve hot.
GRANNY’S GOOD COOKING When my granny was eighty-seven years old, I was moving from Georgia to Arkansas and wanted to spend some time with her because I would soon be so far away. I was worried that due to her age and my financial concerns I might not have another chance to spend time with her.
She lived with one of her sons, his wife, and their two sons. I made arrangements to spend the weekend with her.
The first morning Granny asked me what I wanted for breakfast. I protested that she didn’t have to cook for me. In a stern voice, Granny said, “What’s the matter? Isn’t my cooking good enough for you anymore?”
I immediately recognized my error. At the grand old age of twenty-five, I was not about to argue with Granny. Besides, she was a grand cook.
I immediately asked her for some of her biscuits. I told her that I had tried many times to duplicate her biscuits but just couldn’t succeed. She consoled me with the news that it took her about six months to learn to make a passable biscuit after my aunt asked her to quit using lard in her cooking and to use solid shortening instead.
I am so glad to see this resurgence now in the use of lard.
As it turns out, I had several opportunities to visit Granny after I moved to Arkansas. She was just a few days shy of reaching ninety-nine when she left us. Her mind was sharp to the last, and I’ll always treasure the special weekend I spent with her.
Over the years, I have bought lard to make my baked goods better for special holiday cooking, and I always thank Granny for the good cooking tip.
Linda Purcell, via e-mail
Make these dressed-up cinnamon rolls for your next superspecial occasion, as that’s how they’re best described. The butterscotch, cinnamon, sugar, and butter conspire to create the ultimate comfort-food experience, all rolled up in a familiar package. Makes 16
1 cup milk
¼ cup lard, chilled, plus more for greasing the pan
½ cup sugar
1 teaspoon salt
2¾ cups all-purpose unbleached flour
2¼ teaspoons active dry yeast dissolved in ¼ cup warm water
4 tablespoons salted butter, softened
½ teaspoon cinnamon
1 (6-ounce) package butterscotch chips
¼ cup light corn syrup
2 tablespoons water
½ cup chopped walnuts
In a small saucepan, gently heat the milk to warm. Remove from the heat and add the lard, ¼ cup of sugar, and the salt and stir; let cool to lukewarm.
Transfer the milk mixture to a large bowl. Add 1 cup of flour and the dissolved yeast and stir to combine. Stir in the remaining 1¾ cups of flour to form a soft dough.
Turn out the dough onto a floured board and knead until it’s soft and pliable, 5 to 10 minutes. Place the dough in a greased bowl and turn once to coat. Cover with plastic wrap and set in a warm place to rise until doubled in size. Once doubled, punch down.
Turn out the dough onto a floured board and roll out to a 16 by 8-inch rectangle. Spread 2 tablespoons of butter evenly over the surface. Combine the remaining ¼ cup of sugar and the cinnamon; sprinkle the mixture evenly over the dough. Starting with the long side, roll up the dough and cut into 1-inch slices. Grease a 9-inch baking pan with lard and set the rolls inside.
In a double boiler or in a microwave, combine the butterscotch chips, corn syrup, water, and the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter and heat until the chips are melted; stir well until smooth. Remove from the heat and let cool slightly, about 15 minutes. Fold in the walnuts.
Pour the butterscotch mixture evenly over the rolls; cover loosely with plastic wrap and set in a warm place to rise until doubled in size.
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Bake for 30 minutes, until puffed and golden brown. Remove from the heat and let cool for 2 to 3 minutes. Loosen the rolls from the sides of the pan and gently invert on a serving plate. Serve warm.
These cinnamon rolls call for an old-fashioned but time-honored method of making a sponge, which allows the dough to ferment and build extra flavor before being combined with the rest of the ingredients. These are large, bakery-style rolls, and the buttermilk icing is irresistible!
A decidedly modern trick for slicing the dough roll: Use unflavored, unwaxed dental floss to cleanly cut the dough into rounds; it’s light enough to allow you to slice through the soft dough without squeezing out the filling. Makes 1 dozen
2¼ teaspoons active dry yeast
1 teaspoon salt
2 cups lukewarm water
8½ to 9½ cups all-purpose unbleached flour
1 cup granulated sugar
1 cup lard, chilled, plus more for greasing the pans
1 large egg, plus 2 egg yolks
½ cup cold water
½ cup salted butter, softened
¾ cup brown sugar, packed
2 tablespoons cinnamon
ICING
3 tablespoons cream cheese, softened
3 tablespoons buttermilk
1½ cups confectioners’ sugar
¼ teaspoon vanilla extract
In a large bowl, combine the yeast, salt, lukewarm water, and 4 cups of flour. With a large rubber spatula, mix together thoroughly; the dough will be very sticky. Cover with plastic wrap and set in a warm place to rise for 2 hours. (This is the sponge.)
In a separate large bowl, cream together the granulated sugar and lard; add 2 cups of flour, one at a time, stirring well after each addition; the mixture will resemble pie dough.
In a small bowl, beat the egg and yolks with an electric mixer on medium-high speed until foamy, about 1 minute. Add the cold water to the eggs and stir to combine. Combine the 3 mixtures all at once in the sponge bowl and beat on low speed until smooth. Add enough additional flour (up to 2½ cups) to make the dough similar to the consistency of bread dough. Cover with plastic wrap and set in a warm place to rise, 1½ to 2 hours.
When doubled in size, turn the dough onto a floured board and knead until soft and pliable, about 10 minutes, adding up to 1 cup more of flour.
Roll out the dough to a 16 by 12-inch rectangle and a ⅓-inch thickness with a long side facing you. Using a rubber spatula, spread the butter evenly over the dough, leaving a ½-inch border at the far end.
Combine the brown sugar and cinnamon in a small bowl and mix with a fork. Sprinkle the mixture evenly over the dough.
Grease two 13 by 9-inch deep baking dishes with lard.
Starting with the long side closest to you, roll up the dough like a jelly roll, pinching with your fingertips as you roll. Moisten the top edge with water to seal the roll.
Using a sharp knife or dental floss (see recipe introduction), cut the roll into 12 equal slices; place 6 rolls, cut side down, close together in each dish. Cover loosely with a flour sack cloth or tea towel and set in a warm place to rise until doubled, 1½ to 2 hours.
Adjust the oven racks to the upper-middle and lower-middle positions. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Bake both dishes at the same time for 25 to 30 minutes, until golden brown; switch the positions of the dishes halfway through the baking time. Remove from the oven and let cool on a wire rack for 5 minutes.
To prepare the icing, place the cream cheese, buttermilk, and half the confectioners’ sugar in a large bowl and beat with an electric mixer until smooth and free of lumps. Add the remaining sugar and the vanilla and beat. Using a tablespoon, drizzle the icing evenly over the rolls. Serve warm.
