Quick and very easy, this one-skillet wonder is the perfect recipe to turn to when you’re tired after a long day and you’ve got lots of hungry mouths to feed. Use leftovers to make a beef potpie the next day. Serve with corn bread and a green salad. Serves 4 to 6
2 cups minced onion
3 tablespoons lard
1 pound ground beef
1 cup diced green pepper
4 cups diced canned tomatoes
¾ cup raw white rice, washed
1 teaspoon chili powder
1 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon black pepper
In a large skillet, sauté the onion in the lard. Add the ground beef and cook, stirring constantly and breaking up the meat, until browned.
Stir in the green pepper, tomatoes, rice, and spices. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the rice is tender and the sauce has thickened, 30 to 45 minutes. Serve immediately.
Corn pone pie is a traditional southwestern dish—chili with corn bread on top—done here with a midwestern twist. The cornmeal crust complements the spicy ingredients and completes the meal. For an extra-special treat, grind your own cornmeal from dried Indian corn, or use coarsely ground cornmeal for a little crunch. Serve this pie with sour cream, green onions, and cilantro for garnish. Serves 6
1 tablespoon lard, plus more for greasing the dish
⅓ cup chopped onion
1 pound ground beef
2 teaspoons chili powder
¾ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1 cup canned diced tomatoes
1 cup red beans, drained
CRUST
½ cup cornmeal
½ cup flour
⅛ cup sugar
¼ teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 egg
½ cup milk
⅛ cup lard, cold and coarsely chopped
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Grease a 1½-quart casserole dish and set aside.
In a large skillet, sauté the onion and beef in the lard, stirring often, until the meat is cooked through. Add the chili powder, salt, Worcestershire sauce, tomatoes, and beans. Simmer gently, stirring occasionally, for about 15 minutes. Pour into the prepared casserole dish and set aside.
To prepare the crust, sift together the cornmeal, flour, sugar, salt, and baking powder. Add the egg, milk, and lard; beat with an electric mixer on low speed until the batter is smooth. Pour over the chili mixture.
Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until the crust is golden brown. Serve immediately.
This hearty and filling stew is distinctly Hungarian with its use of lard, paprika, onion, garlic, and slow-cooked meat, all prepared in a single pot. You’ll appreciate this recipe after a cold, harried day as it’s ready in less than an hour. Top each serving with sour cream and a hunk of crusty bread on the side, and you’ll please even the pickiest eaters. Serves 8
2 tablespoons lard
1½ pounds beef chuck, cut into ½-inch cubes
1½ cups chopped onion
1 to 2 cloves garlic, minced
1 (28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes with juices
3 cups water
⅔ cup barley
2 cubes beef bouillon
1 tablespoon sugar
1 tablespoon paprika
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon caraway seeds
In a large (4-quart) saucepan, heat the lard over medium-high heat. Add the beef and cook until browned. Add the onion and garlic and cook for 5 minutes. Pour off the excess fat.
Stir in the tomatoes, water, barley, bouillon cubes, sugar, paprika, salt, and caraway seeds; heat to boiling. Reduce the heat to low; cover and simmer for 45 to 50 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the beef and barley are tender. Serve immediately.
REMEMBERING LIVER SAUSAGE When my age was only a single digit, I remember my dad helping butcher a hog, and I also remember the ugly outcome. Butchering always happened when it was really cold. We were told to stay in the house and away from what the men were doing.
Not me. I had to see it all by peeking from an upstairs window. What a gory mess!
My mom cooked the pig head in a big pot, took all the usable meat pieces out, and ground it all for liver sausage and other meats to cook and can. That was OK, because I like liver sausage and remember the blood sausage as being good, too.
Mom’s recipe for liver sausage was: using the meat from the head plus the heart and tongue, cook until done (I don’t remember how long), and grind. Add salt, black pepper, allspice (I don’t remember the amounts; probably just to taste), and fried onion. Mix until mushy, pack in jars, and cook for 3 hours. Using a special funnel, she also put some of the mixture in casings. Then the sausages were taken to the local butcher shop to be smoked or were smoked at home when we still had a smokehouse.
Headcheese was made almost the same way, only salt, black pepper, and raw onion were mixed together with the same consistency. I recall the taste was wonderful!
The lard was cut to fit into the big black frying pan and set on the old cookstove, probably heated with corncobs, to melt down—the process known as rendering lard. I don’t remember when it was strained, but the leftover pieces in the bottom of the pan, called cracklings, were later reheated, and we enjoyed eating this treat hot with lots of salt for our supper meal.
The strained lard was put into small crocks, sliced onions added, the crocks set on the back of the stove and slowly cooked (no boiling because that made it too hot) until the onions were browned. The onions were sometimes removed and the lard chilled—outdoors, since we had no refrigerator—or put in the cellar. The lard was then spread like butter on homemade rye bread, salted, and enjoyed as part of our supper. We called this schmaltz (my spelling may not be right, but it sounds right).
EDITOR’S NOTE: Schweineschmalz is the German word for lard, literally, pig fat. Schmaltz is rendered chicken fat, a staple of traditional Jewish cookery.
Agnes Porter, Anaheim, California
While the origin of this dish is unclear—theories range from being named for England’s Duke of Wellington to being invented for a civic reception in Wellington, New Zealand—“Wellington” is often used generically to describe any meat baked in puff pastry. Nevertheless, this dish honors one of the finest cuts of beef—the tenderloin. Make it for Christmas dinner or another special occasion during which guests will cherish the memory of this gustatory delight. Serves 8
2¼ pounds beef tenderloin roast
⅔ cup lard, cold and coarsely chopped, plus more for greasing the pan
2¼ cups all-purpose unbleached flour
½ teaspoon salt
2⅓ to 2½ cups cold water
1 (4.75-ounce) can liver pâté
1 egg, beaten
GRAVY
2 teaspoons instant beef bouillon granules
⅓ cup burgundy wine
½ teaspoon crushed dried basil
Salt and black pepper
Preheat the oven to 425°F. Rinse the beef in cold water and pat dry. Trim any excess fat or connective tissue. Place the tenderloin on a rack in a shallow roasting pan. Insert a meat thermometer into the center of the meat.
Roast the tenderloin for 45 minutes, or until the thermometer registers 130°F. Remove the roast from the pan; cover with aluminum foil and refrigerate while preparing the pastry. Reserve the drippings.
Grease a baking sheet with lard and set aside.
In a large bowl, combine 2 cups of the flour with the salt. Using a pastry blender, cut in the lard until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Add ⅓ to ½ cup cold water, 1 tablespoon at a time, tossing with a fork until moist. Gather the dough into a ball and transfer to a lightly floured surface. Roll the dough out to a 12 by 14-inch rectangle.
Evenly spread the pâté over the dough to within ½ inch of the edges. Center the tenderloin on the pastry and wrap the dough around the meat. Trim any excess pastry and pinch to seal. Brush the pastry with the beaten egg.
Place the meat roll, seam side down, on the prepared baking sheet. Roll out the remaining pastry scraps and cut in decorative shapes. Place the decorative pastry on the meat roll, pinch into place, and brush with the egg.
Bake for 35 minutes, until the pastry is golden brown and flaky. While baking, cover with foil to prevent overbrowning, if necessary.
While the roast is cooking, prepare the gravy. Transfer the reserved drippings to a small saucepan. Add 1½ cups of cold water and the bouillon granules. Over medium-low heat, cook and stir until the mixture is blended and the bouillon has dissolved. In a bowl, whisk together the remaining ½ cup of cold water with the remaining ¼ cup of flour; stir into the hot bouillon mixture. Add the wine and basil. Cook, whisking constantly, until thick, 1 to 2 minutes. Season to taste with salt and black pepper.
When the roast is done cooking, remove from the oven and let rest for 15 minutes. Slice the pastry-wrapped tenderloin into 8 slices; serve with a bowl of gravy and allow the diners to help themselves.
This little creature of a pie is as delicious as it is beautiful. Flavors include everything from wheat germ and cheddar cheese in the crust to cubed beef chuck, crunchy corn, and fiery southwestern spices, all wrapped up in a pretty potpie package. Your guests will have no idea what awaits them inside. For garnish, serve with shredded cheddar cheese, sour cream, chopped green onions, and a bowl of salsa. Olé! Serves 8
CRUST
1⅔ cups all-purpose unbleached flour
⅓ cup yellow cornmeal
2 tablespoons toasted wheat germ
1 teaspoon salt
⅓ cup finely shredded cheddar cheese
¾ cup lard
5 to 7 tablespoons cold water
FILLING
1 tablespoon lard
1 pound lean boneless beef chuck, cut into ¼- to ½-inch cubes
½ cup chopped green pepper
½ cup chopped onion
1 (14.5-ounce) can diced tomatoes with juices
1 (8.5-ounce) can whole kernel corn, drained
1 (4-ounce) can chopped green chiles with juices
½ cup water
⅓ cup tomato paste
2 teaspoons sugar
1 teaspoon chili powder
½ teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon dried crushed red pepper
⅓ cup sliced black olives
GLAZE
1 egg, beaten
¼ teaspoon salt
To prepare the crust, combine the flour, cornmeal, wheat germ, and salt in a large bowl. Stir in the cheese. Using a pastry blender or two knives, cut in the lard until just blended, forming pea-sized chunks. Sprinkle with cold water, 1 tablespoon at a time, and toss lightly with a fork until the dough comes together in a ball. Divide the dough in half and place each half, cut side down, on a floured board. Flatten each half to form 5- to 6-inch rounds. Wrap one round in plastic and place in the refrigerator. Using a rolling pin, roll out the other round and fit into the bottom of a 9-inch pie plate. Refrigerate while you prepare the filling.
To prepare the filling, heat the lard in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Brown the beef, then transfer to a bowl using a slotted spoon. In the same skillet, add the green pepper and onion; sauté until just tender. Add the cooked beef, tomatoes, corn, green chiles, water, tomato paste, sugar, chili powder, cumin, salt, and crushed red pepper; stir well. Cover and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove from the heat and stir in the olives. Set aside to cool and thicken slightly.
Preheat the oven to 425°F.
Roll out the remaining dough to a 10-inch round to form the top crust. Spoon the cooled filling into the prepared unbaked pie crust. Moisten the overhanging pastry edge with water. Place the top crust over the pie; press and flute the edges to seal. Using a sharp knife, cut 4 steam vents, evenly spaced, on the top crust.
To prepare the glaze, whisk together the egg and salt. Brush lightly over the crust. Bake for 30 to 40 minutes, until the juices are bubbling and the crust is golden brown. Serve immediately.
Bierocks (BEE-rocks) are pastry pockets typically filled with beef, onions, and cabbage. They originated in Eastern Europe and were brought to America in the nineteenth century by German-Russian Mennonite immigrants. The Midwest, particularly Kansas and Nebraska, is now the bastion of bierocks, with even a regional fast-food chain (Runza) serving their version as their centerpiece.
Bierocks make great Oktoberfest fare. When they emerge from the oven, cut a slit in the top of each one and drop in a pat of butter. Serve with coarse mustard, German sausages, sauerkraut, and dark beer, of course, for an authentic German experience. Makes 1 dozen
DOUGH
2¼ teaspoons active dry yeast
1¼ cups warm water
¼ cup lard, softened, plus more for greasing the pans
¼ cup sugar
1½ teaspoons salt
2 eggs
4 cups all-purpose unbleached flour
FILLING
1 teaspoon lard
1 pound ground beef
1 cup minced onion
4 cups chopped cabbage
1 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon black pepper
In a small bowl, soak the yeast in ¼ cup of warm water. In a large bowl, cream the lard with the sugar, salt, and eggs. Add the yeast to the remaining 1 cup of warm water and 2 cups of flour; mix well. Add the remaining flour gradually and stir until the dough comes together.
Turn the dough onto a floured surface and knead for 5 to 10 minutes until soft and smooth. Place the dough in a clean bowl and cover with plastic wrap; set in a warm place to rise until doubled, 1½ to 2 hours.
To prepare the filling, heat the lard in a large skillet over medium-high heat; add the beef and cook until browned, stirring constantly, about 5 minutes. Add the onion, cabbage, salt, and pepper; cook for 5 minutes, stirring constantly to keep the steam from building up moisture. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the mixture to a bowl and set aside.
Grease two baking sheets with lard and set aside.
When the dough has risen, turn it out onto a floured surface. Using a food scale, pinch off 3-ounce balls and roll out flat to about a ¼-inch thickness. Place ½ cup of the meat mixture in the center of each; pull the corners of dough over the filling and pinch tightly to seal. Place the bierocks, seam side down, 1 inch apart on the prepared baking sheets.
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Cover the bierocks loosely with plastic wrap or a towel to rise while the oven is heating.
Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until golden brown. Serve warm or at room temperature. Freeze any leftovers.
This easy and ingenious recipe originates with the frugal cook, and even calls for the versatile and ubiquitous can of cream of mushroom soup to prove it. Lean and moderately tough (read: “cheap”) cuts of meat, such as round steak, dry out when cooked with dry-heat methods such as roasting or grilling. “Baked steak” is braised—a slow, moist-heat method that tenderizes the meat and maintains moisture. Serve with mashed potatoes and a side salad for a satisfying supper. Serves 4
1 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon black pepper
¼ cup all-purpose unbleached flour
1 pound round steak, cut into 4-ounce serving pieces
2 tablespoons lard
¼ cup chopped onion
1 (10.75-ounce) can cream of mushroom soup
½ cup water
Preheat the oven to 325°F.
In a medium bowl, mix together the salt, pepper, and flour. Dredge the steak pieces in the flour mixture and set aside.
Melt the lard in a large skillet over medium-high heat; add the steak pieces and onion. Cook until the meat is browned and the onion is translucent, 5 to 10 minutes. Place in a 2-quart casserole dish.
Combine the soup and water in the same skillet used for the steak; stir until all the brown bits from the cooked meat are mixed with the liquid. Pour the “gravy” over the meat in the dish and cover tightly with aluminum foil.
Bake for 1½ hours, until the meat is tender.
Back in the day, organ meats, such as liver, were common fare and were regularly served once a week. Extremely rich in fat-soluble vitamins A and D, as well as essential fatty acids, liver is an important food for building strength and vitality. This old-fashioned recipe will ease you into the idea of eating this healthful source of protein and nutrients. Use a food processor with a metal blade or a stand mixer fitted with a meat-grinding attachment to grind the liver. Serves 4 to 6
1 pound beef liver, membrane removed, coarsely ground
¾ cup chopped onion
⅓ cup bread crumbs
1 teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon black pepper
2 tablespoons milk
2 eggs, lightly beaten
3 tablespoons lard
In a large bowl, combine the liver, onion, bread crumbs, salt, pepper, milk, and eggs; mix well.
In a large skillet, heat the lard over medium-high heat. Using a tablespoon, drop spoonfuls of the liver mixture into the hot fat and flatten slightly with a spatula. Fry until golden brown on both sides. Drain on paper towels and serve immediately.
More like chicken-fried hamburgers, these are an easy and fun way to use up lots of ground beef, as this recipe can easily be multiplied to serve more people. And no running to the store—you’ve probably got all the ingredients in your pantry right now. Serve with homemade ranch dressing in lieu of the usual gravy. Serves 4
1 pound ground beef
2 teaspoons onion salt
2 teaspoons parsley flakes
1 egg
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon chili powder
2 cups crushed Ritz crackers
Lard
In a large bowl, mix the ground beef with the onion salt, parsley flakes, egg, salt, chili powder, and 1 cup of the crushed crackers. Roll the seasoned meat into 4 equal-sized balls.
Sprinkle the remaining 1 cup of crushed crackers on a cutting board. Using your hand or a rolling pin, flatten the meatballs into steaks about ½ inch thick, making sure both sides are well coated with the crackers. Place the steaks on wax paper and chill for 30 minutes or longer.
In a large skillet, heat the lard to 1 inch deep over medium-high heat. Add the steaks and cook 6 to 7 minutes on each side, until both sides are nicely browned and the meat is cooked through.
When Aunt Marge calls at 5:00 p.m. and asks, “What can you bring over for supper tonight?” this dish is an easy answer. Quick, easy, and without fuss, these meatballs can be browned in a skillet, cooked through, then tossed in a Crock-Pot for that impromptu car ride and dinner with the family. Makes 2 dozen
1 pound ground beef
⅔ cup fine bread crumbs
2 tablespoons dried minced onion
2 tablespoons dried chopped parsley
1½ teaspoons salt
1 egg, lightly beaten
2 (10.75-ounce) cans condensed cream of mushroom soup
¼ cup water
2 tablespoons lard
In a large bowl, combine the beef, bread crumbs, onion, parsley, salt, and egg; mix well and set aside. In a separate bowl, combine the soup and water; whisk until blended.
Add ¼ cup of the soup mixture to the beef mixture and mix well. Roll the meat into 1-inch balls; set aside.
In a large skillet, heat the lard over medium-high heat. In batches, cook the meatballs until browned. Lower the heat, pour the remaining soup mixture over the meatballs, and cover. Simmer for 30 minutes, until the meatballs are cooked through.
This popular Hungarian heartland delight will surely spice up your next potluck. It’s an easy one-pot dish that travels well in a Crock-Pot and satisfies all those hungry men in attendance. Serves 8
1 teaspoon lard
1 cup chopped onion
3 cloves garlic, minced
1½ pounds new potatoes, cut into ¾-inch cubes
1 (14.5-ounce) can low-sodium chicken broth
1 (14.4-ounce) can sauerkraut, drained
1 (8-ounce) can tomato sauce
1 cup chopped green pepper
1 tablespoon paprika
½ teaspoon salt
1 pound fully cooked smoked turkey sausage, sliced into ½-inch rounds
In a large skillet, heat the lard over medium-high heat. Add the onion and garlic and sauté for 5 minutes. Add the potatoes and broth; cover and simmer for 15 minutes.
Stir in the sauerkraut, tomato sauce, green pepper, paprika, and salt; mix well. Add the sausage; cover and simmer for 10 minutes until fully cooked through. Serve immediately or transfer to a Crock-Pot and set on low heat (or warm) until serving.
This vintage chili recipe originally called for the “liquid from 1 cooked soup bone,” added for flavor. If you are industrious enough to procure that old-time ingredient, substitute it for the beef base below. The flavor of this chili is enhanced by letting it stand for a few hours or overnight, so make it on any Saturday evening in the fall, refrigerate, and reheat it on Sunday, just before kickoff. Serve with sour cream, grated cheese, and minced onions for garnish. Serves 8 to 10
5 tablespoons lard
2 large onions, chopped
3 cloves garlic, chopped
3 pounds ground beef
1 pound ground pork
3 tablespoons chili powder
3 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon black pepper
2 quarts tomatoes, run through a sieve, or 1 quart tomato juice
1 (6-ounce) can tomato paste
1 teaspoon beef base or granules, dissolved in 2 cups hot water
6 cups cooked pinto beans
In a large skillet, heat the lard over medium-high heat. Add the onions, garlic, beef, and pork; sauté until the meat is browned and the onions are translucent, about 15 minutes. Drain.
Transfer the mixture to a large stockpot. Add the chili powder, salt, pepper, tomatoes, and tomato paste; then stir in the dissolved beef base; heat to boiling. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 1 hour.
Add the beans and simmer for 1 hour longer, stirring frequently. Add more water as necessary.
Popovers are irresistible with their moist, airy centers and crisp, golden brown crusts. Traditionally served warm with butter and jam or—such as Yorkshire puddings—alongside roasted meats, here they help create an elevated version of Hamburger Helper. Your laughter will dissolve into a pleasant smile as the creamy hamburger and crispy pastry fill your mouth with savory goodness—the epitome of comfort food. Serves 6
5 tablespoons lard, plus 3 teaspoons for greasing the pan
1 pound ground beef
½ cup sliced onion
3 tablespoons plus 1 cup all-purpose unbleached flour
3 cups milk
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ cup grated cheddar cheese
1 tablespoon butter, melted
2 eggs, beaten
Place ½ teaspoon of lard into each cup of a 6-cup popover pan. Place the pan in a cold oven and preheat it to 450°F.
In a large skillet, melt 2 tablespoons of the lard over medium heat. Add the beef and onion slices; sauté for 10 minutes, until the meat is lightly browned and the onions are translucent. Drain.
In a saucepan, heat the remaining 3 tablespoons of lard over medium heat. Add 3 tablespoons of flour and stir vigorously; cook for 3 minutes. Gradually whisk in 2 cups of milk, whisking constantly, until the sauce is smooth and thickened. Add the sauce to the meat mixture and set aside, keeping it warm.
In a small bowl, sift together the remaining 1 cup of flour and the salt. In a separate bowl, combine the remaining 1 cup of milk, the cheese, and melted butter; add the eggs and the flour mixture and beat with an electric mixer on low speed for exactly 2 minutes, until smooth.
Once the oven has reached temperature, remove the hot pan and fill each cup two-thirds full with batter. Bake for 20 minutes; reduce the temperature to 325°F, and bake an additional 10 to 15 minutes, until the popovers are puffed and golden brown. Remove the pan from the oven and invert onto a wire rack.
Place one popover on each serving plate and split it open; fill with the creamed hamburger mixture. Serve immediately.
GOOD VS. BAD FAT I discovered lard when I lived in Germany. I’ve never had fried potatoes that tasted as good as their Bratkartoffeln, potatoes and onions fried in lard. Absolutely scrumptious! And the flavor of Wiener schnitzel (breaded veal cutlets) fried in lard. I haven’t yet found any so-called German restaurant in the United States that comes close to matching the flavor of real German cooking, so I’ve given up and I cook it myself.
These days, most of the lard I find has been hydrogenated, which is very unhealthy, so I have been rendering my own. We buy fat from the butcher at the local Mexican market and use our slow cooker to render the lard. The cracklings left over are good snack food and taste great on salads.
My better half was diagnosed with type 2 diabetes last year, and we’ve done a lot of research on diet since then. We’ve discovered that almost everything we’ve heard about diet over the last forty years or so is wrong. Natural animal fats—butter, lard, tallow, and the like—are good for you. Processed vegetable oils—trans fats—are very bad for you. Dietary cholesterol has absolutely no affect on your body’s cholesterol levels—your body manufactures its own cholesterol, it doesn’t use the cholesterol you eat. And so on and so forth.
Meanwhile, the Bratkartoffeln taste great.
Kim Ann Innes, Trenton, Texas
When Memphis-born Henrietta relocated to Lincoln County, Kansas, to be with her husband after the war, she found herself smack-dab in the middle of bland … bland food, that is. So she took her mother-in-law’s fried chicken recipe and gave it some zing to create this spicier version. Serve with your favorite potato salad and coleslaw for the perfect summertime picnic. Serves 4 to 6
1 to 2 teaspoons black pepper
½ teaspoon poultry seasoning
½ teaspoon paprika
½ teaspoon cayenne
¼ teaspoon dry mustard
1 (2½ to 3½ pound) frying chicken, cut up into 8 pieces
¼ cup all-purpose unbleached flour
2¼ teaspoons garlic salt
¼ to ½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon celery salt
Lard, for frying
In a large bowl, combine the black pepper, poultry seasoning, paprika, cayenne, and dry mustard. Dredge the chicken pieces in the spices.
In a paper or plastic bag, combine the flour, garlic salt, salt, and celery salt; shake to mix. Add the chicken, a few pieces at a time, and shake to coat.
Heat the lard to 340°F and 2 inches deep in an electric skillet or on medium heat in a large cast-iron skillet. Add the chicken pieces and fry for 30 minutes, turning every 10 minutes. Increase the heat to 355°F for an electric skillet or medium-high for a regular skillet. Fry for an additional 5 minutes, or until the meat is no longer pink at the bone. Remove the chicken from the fat and drain on paper towels.
This very old-fashioned rendition of chicken and dumplings is probably the way your grandparents used to make it. Nothing extra has been added—no vegetables, no noodles—this really is just chicken and dumplings. Using a free-range organic bird is all you need to celebrate the true flavor of chicken. Add a teaspoon or two of your favorite dried herbs and a bay leaf to spice up the broth. Serves 6
1 (3- to 5-pound) broiler chicken, dressed and cut into 8 pieces
¼ teaspoon black pepper
2 teaspoons salt
2 cups all-purpose unbleached flour
4 teaspoons baking powder
2 tablespoons lard, cold and coarsely chopped
1 cup milk
In a large saucepan, place the chicken pieces; add enough water to cover. Add the pepper and 1 teaspoon salt. Cover and simmer until the chicken is tender, about 1 hour.
To prepare the dumplings, place the flour, baking powder, and the remaining 1 teaspoon salt in a large bowl. Using a pastry blender or fork, cut in the lard until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Add the milk, ¼ cup at a time, and mix until a soft dough forms; set aside.
Once the chicken is fully cooked and no longer pink at the bone, transfer it to a cutting board. Remove the skin, shred the chicken, and discard the bones. Return the meat to the pot. Bring the stew to a boil again, then drop the dough by teaspoonfuls into the pot. Cover the pot; boil the broth and dumplings for 12 minutes, until the dumplings have doubled in size. Serve immediately.
Weeknight cooking begs for one-skillet meals, especially those utilizing leftover meat. Jambalaya is a spicy, tasty dish that fits the bill. Substitute beef, pork, or shrimp for the chicken if you prefer; if substituting shrimp (cooked or raw), add it during the last couple of minutes of cooking rather than at the beginning. Serve with a bottle of Tabasco for a spicy kick. Serves 4
1 tablespoon lard
1 medium yellow onion, chopped
1 cup chopped celery
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 cup raw white rice
2 cups canned diced tomatoes
1 cup chopped cooked chicken
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper (optional)
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
In a large skillet, heat the lard over medium heat. Add the onion, celery, garlic, and rice; sauté for 5 minutes.
Add the tomatoes, chicken, salt, and cayenne pepper, if using; heat to simmering. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook slowly, 35 to 45 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the rice is tender and the liquid has mostly evaporated.
Sprinkle the parsley over the dish and serve immediately.
Born in the South, this native recipe embodies southern hospitality and Sunday suppers after church. The key ingredient is buttermilk, which, along with other dairy products such as yogurt, tenderizes meat. The result is a crispier, juicier piece of fried chicken . . . finger-licking good! Serves 4 to 6
1 cup all-purpose unbleached flour
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon white pepper
2 cups buttermilk
Lard, for frying
1 frying chicken (2 to 2½ pounds), cut up into 8 pieces
Combine the flour, salt, and white pepper in a paper bag. Place the buttermilk in a large bowl. Set both aside.
In a heavy cast-iron skillet, heat the lard to 340°F and 1½ to 2 inches deep (start with 2 cups, adding more as needed). One by one, coat the chicken pieces in the buttermilk, then shake in the bag until well covered with the seasoned flour.
Add the chicken pieces to the hot fat, leaving a little space between the pieces so they’re not crowded. Reduce the heat to medium and cook until the underside is golden brown, about 15 minutes. Turn and cook until the other side is brown. Reduce the heat to low; cover and cook an additional 10 minutes, or until the chicken is no longer pink at the bone. Remove the chicken from the fat and drain on paper towels.
You’ll be delightfully surprised at how easy homemade noodles are to make. Whenever you have a bit of leftover chicken or turkey from a meal, toss it in some broth with these noodles and you’ll have a simple, nourishing supper—perfect for a cold winter evening or for a child with the sniffles. Serves 6
3 eggs
1 tablespoon water
1 tablespoon milk
½ teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon lard, melted and cooled
2 to 2¼ cups all-purpose unbleached flour
1 scant teaspoon baking powder
SOUP
2 quarts (8 cups) chicken or turkey broth
5 tablespoons all-purpose unbleached flour
1½ cups cooked and chopped chicken or turkey
1 teaspoon fresh or dried herbs of your choice
In a large bowl, combine the eggs, water, and milk. With an electric mixer, beat well on medium speed for 1 minute. Add the salt and lard; beat well.
In a separate bowl, whisk together 2 cups of flour and the baking powder. Add gradually to the egg mixture, beating on low speed. Switch to a rubber spatula and stir in more flour, up to ¼ cup if needed, to make a stiff dough.
Turn the dough onto a floured board and knead into a ball. Sprinkle more flour on the board and using a rolling pin, roll out the dough as thinly as possible, about ¹⁄16 inch. Using a pizza wheel, slice the dough into strips ¼ inch wide, then slice again in half crosswise. Transfer the noodles to a wire rack and cover loosely with a lint-free cloth. Leave to dry for 2 hours.
To make a soup, place the broth in a stockpot and bring to a boil. Whisk in the flour to thicken. Add the poultry and the noodles, lower the heat to medium, and cook for 30 to 35 minutes, until the noodles are tender and the broth is thickened. Stir in the herbs. Serve immediately.
Pasta alla Caruso—named after the great Italian tenor, Enrico Caruso—is a dish invented by Italians in America who found chicken to be a widely available commodity (not so in Italy until after World War II) and chicken livers at giveaway prices. It began appearing on the menus of Little Italy’s restaurants sometime in the 1950s. Crisped in lard, the chicken livers provide creamy richness, the mushrooms, earthiness, and the tomato sauce, sweetness. Mangiare! Serves 8
2 (8-ounce) packages spaghetti
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 large yellow onion, diced
2 cups tomato juice
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon black pepper
½ cup grated mozzarella cheese
½ cup lard
½ pound fresh white button or shiitake mushrooms, rinsed, dried, and sliced
1 pound chicken livers, sliced into ½-inch pieces
¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese
In a large pot of boiling salted water, cook the spaghetti until tender; drain and set aside.
In a large skillet, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the onion and sauté for 10 minutes, until golden brown. Add the tomato juice, salt, and pepper; stir to mix. Add the mozzarella cheese gradually, blending thoroughly. Lower the heat and add the spaghetti; simmer for 10 minutes, stirring constantly, until thoroughly heated.
In a separate skillet, heat the lard over medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms and chicken livers and sauté for 10 minutes, until the mushrooms are browned and the livers are cooked through.
Place the spaghetti mixture on a serving platter; pour the sautéed livers and mushrooms over the top. Sprinkle with the Parmesan cheese and serve immediately.
Another recipe born from necessity, Easter Ham Pie is really a quiche, and it makes good use of all that leftover traditional Easter ham. You’ll end up with 4 pies on your hands afterward, so once they’ve cooled completely, wrap them tightly in plastic and freeze. They’ll look awfully good in a few weeks or months and you’ll pat yourself on the back for going to the trouble. Makes four 8-inch pies
CRUST
4 cups all-purpose unbleached flour
3 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
3 teaspoons sugar
½ cup lard, cold and coarsely chopped
9 eggs
½ cup to 1 cup milk
FILLING
3 cups diced ham
3 pounds ricotta cheese
1 cup grated Romano cheese
4 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and sliced
1 teaspoon milk
Salt and black pepper
Pinch of paprika
In a large bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, salt, and sugar. Using a pastry blender, cut in the lard until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Make a well in the center of the dry mixture; add 4 eggs and mix. Add the milk, ¼ cup at a time, and stir. Add just enough to make a fairly soft dough. Cut the dough into quarters.
Turn the dough onto a lightly floured board. Using a rolling pin, roll each quarter into a 14-inch crust and line four 8-inch pie pans, allowing for considerable overhang. Chill the crusts in the refrigerator while you prepare the filling.
Preheat the oven to 375°F.
In a large bowl, mix the ham, 4 beaten eggs, the cheeses, and egg slices. Divide the mixture evenly among the four crust-lined pans. Take the overhanging dough and fold it up over the filling; use cold water to seal where the crust overlaps. Beat the 1 remaining egg with the milk to make a wash. Brush the pie tops, including the filling, with the wash. Season with salt and pepper; sprinkle on paprika for color.
Bake for 40 to 45 minutes, until the crust is golden brown and the filling is set. (The filling will puff up, but it will settle when cooled.) Cool on wire racks. Serve warm or at room temperature, or freeze (see recipe introduction).
To bake after the pie has been frozen, defrost the pie in the refrigerator and bake as directed.
Raising Our Own Meat We still raise and butcher our own meat, although we now take the animals to the local meat locker and they do the deed, because I am concerned about what we eat. By raising our own, I know what it has been fed and how it is handled, and that makes me especially happy when I hear about foodborne illnesses and meat recalls.
Lard, of course, is one of the products from the hog butchering, and the locker gladly saves the lard and even runs it through a grinder for me. I bring it home and render it in the oven, electric roaster, or on top of the stove, whichever method works at the time.
I would not dream of using anything else for pie crust. By putting lard into containers in the freezer, you do not have to worry about the lard becoming rancid. Lard purchased in the store has additives to help it remain fresh, but then again we have the issue of something added.
Any natural food has to be better than processed. The key is always moderation and a balanced diet.
Rose Anderson, Taunton, Minnesota
Dredged in cornmeal instead of the traditional flour, this chicken is different in yet another way: It’s finished in the oven after being browned in lard. If you’d rather focus on side dishes than hover over the fryer, this fried chicken recipe is the one for you. Serves 4 to 6
1 cup finely ground cornmeal
2 teaspoons salt
¼ teaspoon black pepper
1 frying chicken, cut into 8 pieces
½ cup lard
Preheat the oven to 350°F.
In a large bowl, combine the cornmeal, salt, and pepper; mix well. Dip the chicken pieces in the flour mixture; set aside.
In a large skillet, heat the lard to 350°F. Place the chicken in the hot fat and fry until browned, turning often, about 10 minutes. When browned, remove the chicken from the skillet and arrange in a 13 by 9-inch baking dish.
Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, until the chicken is no longer pink at the bone.
Skillet meals are a godsend after a tiring day of work when you can’t face a parade of pans and dishes. This fun, one-skillet meal also makes for an interesting presentation; bring the skillet straight to the table and serve. A simple loaf of crusty bread makes the perfect accompaniment. Serves 4
4 tablespoons lard
4 pork chops, 1 inch thick
4 slices onion, ½ inch thick
4 rings green pepper, ½ inch thick
4 tablespoons raw rice
3 cups canned diced tomatoes
1 cup diced celery
In a large skillet, heat the lard over medium-high heat. Add the pork chops and sear on both sides.
Place 1 onion slice and 1 green pepper ring on each chop. Add 1 tablespoon of rice to the center of each ring. Pour the tomatoes around the chops and sprinkle the whole dish with the celery.
Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 1 hour, until the chops and rice are tender. Serve immediately.
Pork pies are traditional English meat pies sealed in a pastry crust. This American version simplifies the process in order to get dinner on the table much more quickly—it has only a top crust, which can be pulled together in minutes. Filled with vegetables and gravy, this hearty fare deeply satisfies the appetite when the weather has turned chilly. Serve with a side salad or warm caraway sauerkraut. Serves 4 to 6
1 pound pork roast
3 medium potatoes, peeled and diced
½ cup diced carrot
½ cup peas
½ cup green beans
½ cup diced celery
1 large yellow onion, diced
1½ cups all-purpose unbleached flour
3 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
¾ cup milk
2 tablespoons lard, cold and coarsely chopped
In a medium saucepan, simmer the pork for about 1 hour; transfer the meat to a dish and reserve the cooking liquid. When the pork has cooled to the touch, pull apart into small pieces and set aside.
Place the potatoes in a large saucepan and cover with water. Boil and cook for 10 minutes, then add the carrot, peas, green beans, celery, and onion; cook until tender, about 10 minutes. Reserve ½ cup of the cooking liquid.
In a small bowl, combine both of the reserved cooking liquids with 3 tablespoons of the flour; whisk together to make a gravy. Place the pork and vegetables in a 2-quart baking dish and pour the gravy over everything.
Preheat the oven to 450°F.
In a large bowl, combine the remaining flour, the baking powder, salt, and milk; stir together. Using a pastry blender, cut in the lard until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs, then gather up the mixture into a ball. Turn the dough onto a floured board and roll out to a diameter 1 inch larger than your baking dish. Place the crust over the ingredients in the dish and tuck in the edges so you have very little overhang.
Bake for 30 minutes, until the crust is golden brown.
SOME RECIPES MUST HAVE LARD I know of two recipes that must have lard in them to taste as they should. One is a French-Canadian dish I remember from my childhood, Soupe aux Pois, yellow pea soup. The other is the New Mexican state cookie, the biscochito, an anise seed–laced shortbread powdered with cinnamon sugar.
Heavenly, both of them, but not without lard!
Jane, via e-mail
Pasties, similar to bierocks, are filled pocket pastries, though the difference is that British pasties (commonly known as Cornish pasties) call for uncooked filling before baking. Pasties came to America via the Cornish people who immigrated to Michigan’s Upper Peninsula in the mid-nineteenth century to work in the mines. Miners carried pasties in their lunch pails and reheated them on shovels held over the candles worn on their hats. May 24 is Michigan Pasty Day, where the food is considered a regional specialty. Michiganians love to eat their pasties cold with ketchup. Serves 4
CRUST
¾ cup lard, frozen and finely grated, plus more for greasing the pan
3 cups all-purpose unbleached flour
1 teaspoon salt
Ice water
FILLING
½ pound ground pork
½ pound ground beef
2 cups finely sliced onions
1 cup finely sliced turnips
1 cup finely sliced potatoes
Salt and black pepper
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Grease a baking sheet with lard and set aside.
In a large bowl, combine the lard, flour, and salt. Using your fingers, mix together until it resembles fine crumbs. Add the ice water, ¼ cup at a time (up to about 1 cup total), and mix until the dough sticks together firmly.
Turn the dough onto a floured board. Using a rolling pin, roll out the dough to a ⅛-inch thickness and use an 8-inch pie plate, turned upside down, as a template to cut out 4 pasties.
In a large bowl, place all the filling ingredients; mix well. Distribute the filling evenly among the 4 pasties. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Bring up the sides of the pasty to meet in the middle; press together firmly and crimp with a fork or your fingers. Place the pasties on the prepared baking sheet and prick each one 3 times with a fork to vent.
Bake for 1 hour, until the pasties are golden brown and the filling is cooked through. Serve warm or cold.
You might have turned up your nose when you saw the name of this recipe, but this updated retro classic is better than ever. And c’mon, who can resist the kitschy charm of a crushed-cornflakes topping? Serves 6
6 tablespoons lard, plus more for greasing the dish
3 tablespoons flour
2 cups milk
1 (8-ounce) package egg noodles, cooked and drained
1 cup flaked albacore tuna
1 cup frozen peas
2 roasted red peppers (jarred, in water), chopped
¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
Salt and black pepper
1 cup crushed cornflakes
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Grease a 1½-quart casserole dish and set aside.
In a small saucepan, heat the lard over medium heat. Add the flour gradually, stirring constantly, until a paste is formed; stir and cook for 3 minutes. Add the milk ¼ cup at a time, stirring constantly, allowing the liquid to absorb after each addition; simmer for 5 minutes and remove from the heat.
In the prepared casserole dish, alternate layers of noodles, tuna, peas, and red peppers, covering each layer with sauce. Sprinkle on the crushed red pepper flakes and season to taste with salt and pepper. Spread the cornflakes evenly over the casserole.
Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, until heated through. Serve immediately.
If you’ve been meaning to eat more fish but just can’t figure out how to do it easily, give this healthy and light recipe—which utilizes frozen fillets—a try. For variation, substitute frozen shrimp for the fillets. Serve with sautéed or grilled vegetables over rice for a Creole-style meal. Serves 4
1 tablespoon lard, plus more for greasing the dish
1 green pepper, chopped
½ cup chopped onion
2 cups canned diced tomatoes
¼ teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon black pepper
¼ teaspoon Creole or Cajun seasoning
1 pound frozen fish fillets (halibut, tilapia, cod, or other white fish)
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a 2-quart casserole dish and set aside.
In a large skillet, heat the lard over medium-high heat. Sauté the green pepper and onion in the lard until soft but not brown.
Add the tomatoes, salt, pepper, and Creole seasoning; simmer for 10 minutes.
Place the frozen fish in the prepared casserole dish. Pour the tomato mixture over the fish and bake for 30 minutes, until bubbling.
The epitome of easy and delicious, foil-baked fish is poached in a simple liquid; a dot of lard is added to provide the necessary fat for the body to assimilate the nutrients in the fish. The vegetables will bubble and meld and create a stew upon which to serve the fish. Select any white fish (catfish, snapper, walleye, tilapia, sole, flounder) at the fishmonger’s counter that looks fresh and suits your budget. Serves 4
4 fish fillets (12 ounces to 1 pound total)
4 teaspoons lard
Salt and black pepper
2 teaspoons paprika
1 large tomato, chopped
1 onion, chopped
½ green pepper, chopped
½ medium cucumber, peeled and chopped
2 tablespoons lemon juice
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
Preheat the oven to 350°F.
Tear off 2 large sheets of foil; place 2 fish fillets in the center of each sheet. Dot each fillet with 1 teaspoon of lard and season generously with salt, pepper, and ½ teaspoon of paprika.
Distribute the tomato, onion, green pepper, and cucumber evenly over the fillets and sprinkle with the lemon juice and parsley. Fold up the ends of the foil and seal the edges.
Place the foil packets in a shallow 13 by 9-inch baking dish and bake for 30 minutes, until the liquid is bubbling and the fish is opaque and cooked through. Serve immediately.
Croquette is just a fancy word for “patties” or “cakes,” so the next time you want to impress folks, serve them this salmon version of crab cakes. If you’ve got a bit of leftover grilled or poached salmon—rather than the canned fish that’s called for—these will taste even better. The rémoulade sauce complements the salmon perfectly, and the ingredients are so flexible that substitutions can be readily made: sour cream for mayonnaise, shallots for garlic, and so on. Serves 8
2 tablespoons butter
4 tablespoons all-purpose unbleached flour
¾ teaspoon salt
Pinch of black pepper
1 cup milk
1 (16-ounce) can salmon, without bones, flaked
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
½ teaspoon lemon juice
Lard, for frying
1 egg, slightly beaten
2 tablespoons water
¾ cup bread crumbs
RÉMOULADE
½ cup mayonnaise
½ teaspoon capers, drained and rinsed
½ teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 small clove garlic, chopped
1½ teaspoons chopped sweet pickle
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon minced fresh chives
To make a white sauce, melt the butter in a saucepan over low heat. Add the flour, salt, and pepper; whisk together well and cook for 3 minutes. Add the milk slowly, whisking constantly, and continue cooking until the mixture thickens. Remove from the heat.
In a small bowl, combine the salmon with the parsley, lemon juice, and hot white sauce. Mix well and season with salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate until firm.
In a large skillet, heat the lard over medium-high heat to ¼ inch deep.
In a small bowl, beat the egg with the water. Pour the bread crumbs onto a small plate. Using your hands, form the salmon into 8 equal-sized patties. Working in batches, dredge the patties in the bread crumbs, then dip into the egg mixture, then dredge again in the bread crumbs. Fry in hot fat for 2 to 3 minutes on each side, until golden brown. Drain on paper towels.
To prepare the rémoulade, place all the ingredients in a small bowl and whisk until smooth; refrigerate until served. Rémoulade can be made up to 3 days in advance.
HERITAGE BREEDS We raise heritage breed pigs and sell leaf fat and lard. We also use it ourselves, and it is fantastic! Best pies, sweet or meat! Best pastries, especially with leaf lard. And using it for frying creates the ultimate popcorn, fries, stir-fries, chicken, ribs, veggies, and anything else you would fry.
Here are some related Web sites we really like:
lardlovers.ning.com
www.lard.net
jacquelinechurch.com/pig-tales-a-fish-friends/1840-for-the-love-of-lard
Pride Sasser, Rock House Farm, Morganton, North Carolina
www.RockHouseFarm.info
Enjoy the taste of the Maryland seashore, even when fresh crabmeat isn’t an option. Whip up a homemade tartar sauce with mayonnaise and diced sweet pickles. Or for a lighter version, use equal parts sour cream and mayo, a pinch of minced shallots or onions, and some fresh aromatic herbs of your choice (cilantro, dill, basil, and tarragon are all delicious). Serves 4
1 (6.5-ounce) can crabmeat, drained
½ cup bread crumbs
1 egg, beaten
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
1 tablespoon chopped green onion (white and green parts)
Salt and black pepper
Lard, for frying
In a large bowl, place the crabmeat, bread crumbs, egg, Worcestershire sauce, and onion. Season with salt and pepper; mix well. Shape into 4 equal-sized patties. (If more moisture is needed to form patties, add a dash of melted lard.)
In a large skillet, heat the lard over medium-high heat. Fry the patties 3 to 4 minutes on each side, until golden brown. Drain on paper towels and serve immediately.
When you’re in the mood for meat and potatoes but your larder is fresh out of the former, pull together this meatless loaf—flavored with onion, sage, and walnuts—that gets its bulk from potatoes. A delicious aroma will waft through the house as it bakes, luring diners to the table. Serve with an assortment of toppings, including butter, applesauce, sour cream, cheese, and chives. Serves 8
3 tablespoons lard, melted and cooled slightly, plus more for greasing the pan
5 large russet potatoes, peeled and cut into large chunks
1 large yellow onion, peeled and quartered
¾ cup walnuts
2 eggs, beaten
¾ teaspoon crumbled sage
1½ teaspoons salt
1 cup fine bread crumbs
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a 9 by 5-inch loaf pan with lard and set aside.
Place half the potatoes, half the onion, and half the walnuts in the bowl of a food processor fitted with a metal blade. Pulse a few times to combine—the mixture should be very coarse; transfer to a large bowl. Repeat with the other half of the potatoes, onion, and walnuts.
Add the eggs, sage, lard, salt, and ¾ cup of the bread crumbs to the potato mixture and mix well. Place the mixture in the prepared loaf pan and pat down.
Bake for 30 minutes, then sprinkle the remaining ¼ cup of bread crumbs over the top of the loaf. Bake for an additional 15 minutes, until the loaf is heated through and the bread crumbs are toasted. Allow to cool for 10 minutes before slicing. Serve warm.
