When Wally and the “Beav” got home from school, they always had some sort of school drama to unload on mom. June Cleaver knew her kids well and was prepared to tackle anything with a plate of their favorite cookies. This recipe will render the iconic cookies and milk your kids crave after school. Makes 5 dozen
1 cup lard, softened
1 cup granulated sugar
½ cup brown sugar, packed
2 eggs, beaten
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
2½ cups all-purpose unbleached flour
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 (12-ounce) package semisweet chocolate chips
Preheat the oven to 350°F.
In a large bowl, using an electric mixer on low speed, cream together the lard and sugars. Add the eggs and vanilla; beat until combined. Blend in the flour, salt, and baking soda; mix well. Stir in the chocolate chips.
Drop by rounded teaspoonfuls onto ungreased cookie sheets. Bake for 8 to 10 minutes, until golden brown and set. Cool on the sheets for 10 minutes, then transfer to wire racks to cool completely.
These little balls of joy will remind you of Cella’s classic chocolate-covered cherries. They’re so special, you’ll want to make a double batch at the holidays to give away in gift baskets or in a gift box at Valentine’s Day. Forget the candy—give cookies! Makes 2 dozen
½ cup lard, softened, plus more for greasing the pans
¾ cup confectioners’ sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 (1-ounce) square unsweetened chocolate, melted
1½ cups all-purpose unbleached flour
⅛ teaspoon salt
24 maraschino cherries, well drained, stems removed
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease two baking sheets with lard and set aside.
In a large bowl, cream together the lard and confectioners’ sugar. Stir in the vanilla and melted chocolate. Add the flour and salt and mix until well combined.
Using a teaspoon, scoop out a heaping spoonful of dough; place a cherry in the middle, then place another heaping spoonful of dough on top. Roll the dough into a ball to encase the cherry securely. Repeat with the remaining dough and cherries.
Place the cookies on the prepared baking sheets and bake for 12 to 15 minutes, until the dough is set and lightly browned. Remove from the sheets and cool completely on wire racks.
Indicative of wartime baking, these sugar cookies contain a reduced amount of sugar and no butter. They’re quite versatile, making them the perfect candidates for any kind of cookie cutter, frosting, or decoration, and they’re sturdy and they travel well. Makes 5 dozen
1 cup lard, softened, plus more for greasing the pans
½ cup sugar
2 eggs, beaten
½ cup light corn syrup
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
3½ cups sifted all-purpose unbleached flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
In a large bowl, cream the lard and sugar, using an electric mixer on low speed. Add the eggs, corn syrup, and vanilla; beat well.
In a separate bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder, and salt; add to the creamed mixture and stir well to form a ball. Cover with plastic wrap and chill for 2 hours.
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease two baking sheets with lard and set aside.
Turn the dough onto a floured board and flatten with the palm of your hand. Using a floured rolling pin, roll out to a ⅛-inch thickness. Use a cookie cutter to cut the dough, dipping in flour with each use; place the cookies 2 inches apart on the prepared baking sheets.
Bake for 10 minutes, until golden brown. Transfer the cookies to a wire rack to cool. Store in airtight containers for up to a week.
This old-time recipe (edited for modern cooks) calls for sour milk, signaling that it may have been written prior to the availability of pasteurized milk in the early 1900s. Sour milk is different from “spoiled” milk in that it derives its sour taste naturally through bacterial fermentation at room temperature. Before rural electrification, raw milk would sour within two days in the “icebox.” Sour milk can be made by adding lemon juice or vinegar to buttermilk, but homemade (live) yogurt is a better replacement. Even simpler, substitute store-bought buttermilk. Makes 2 dozen
¾ cup lard, melted, plus more for greasing the pans
1½ cups sugar
½ cup cocoa
1 egg, well beaten
½ teaspoon baking soda
¼ teaspoon cream of tartar
¾ cup sour milk
1 cup chopped nuts of your choice
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1 to 1½ cups all-purpose unbleached flour
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease two baking sheets with lard and set aside.
In a large bowl, using a wooden spoon, cream together the sugar, cocoa, and melted lard. Mix in the egg. Dissolve the baking soda and cream of tartar in the sour milk (or buttermilk). Add to the creamed mixture with the nuts and vanilla.
Mix in enough flour to make the right consistency to drop the dough from a teaspoon and retain its shape (start with 1 cup). Place on the prepared baking sheets.
Bake until the cookies are set, 8 to 10 minutes. Cool on sheets for 5 minutes, then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely.
THE AHA! INGREDIENT At the beginning of my career as a journalist, I moved to New Mexico from Oklahoma in early spring and immediately fell in love with the place—the mountains, the vistas, the slow pace of life—and most of all, the food. I have always been a slave to flavor, and I had a reputation in my family as one who viewed the kitchen as much as a laboratory as a repository of tradition.
A new world of food opened up to me when I arrived in New Mexico, and of course, I immediately went to work trying to duplicate some of the dishes I had discovered. Green chile/chicken enchiladas weren’t terribly difficult, nor was the delicious posole that one found at any community gathering. I had trouble figuring out the combination for red chili, however, and was astonished to discover that it had no tomatoes in it. Brought up all my life on the Tex-Mex version of chili, I couldn’t believe that the red in New Mexico’s chili came from dried peppers.
I remember clearly the first time I tasted my first real tamale. I had eaten only canned tamales up to that point and found them to be big gobs of mush. Then at an outdoor fair one summer afternoon in Albuquerque, I smelled something delicious in the air, followed the scent, and ended up buying some fresh homemade tamales. Holy Toledo, was that delicious.
I never tried to make tamales—they looked messy and complicated. But at Christmastime when I had another Holy Toledo moment, I did try to make the little seasonal cookies known as bizcochitos and just couldn’t get them right. As it turns out, they shared a secret ingredient with the tamales.
I finally confessed to one of the Hispanic women I worked with that my bizcochitos tasted OK, but didn’t come even close to hers for flavor and crispiness. She leaned in and whispered in my ear, cute and conspiratorial, that the secret was . . . lard—no Crisco, no butter, just good old-fashioned lard.
I was in my culinary snob period at the time, so I’m sure I recoiled noticeably. However, I went home, tried it, and instantly became a convert. In time, I learned that the only tamales worth eating were those made with lard, too. This was the beginning of the end of my culinary snob days. When I found out that the Hispanic women’s unbeatable chicken enchiladas always included a can of Campbell’s cream of chicken soup, my transformation was complete.
K. C. Compton, GRIT Executive Editor, Lawrence, Kansas
True mincemeat always contains meat (beef, beef suet, or venison), but modern variations consist of chopped dried fruit, spices, and distilled spirits, making mincemeat less of a savory food and more of a sweet pie filling or other dessert. In New England, mincemeat pies are a traditional part of the Thanksgiving feast, served with a slice of cheddar cheese. Try these chewy, old-fashioned cookies, using commercially prepared mincemeat—or homemade mincemeat if you should be that lucky. Makes 2½ dozen
¼ cup lard, softened, plus more for greasing the pans
1 cup mincemeat
½ cup sugar
1 egg, lightly beaten
1½ cups all-purpose unbleached flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
¼ teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon cinnamon
Pinch of salt
Chopped nuts of your choice (optional)
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease two baking sheets with lard and set aside.
In a large bowl, using a wooden spoon, cream together the mincemeat, sugar, and lard; stir in the egg. In a separate bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon, and salt; add to the creamed mixture and blend well. Add the nuts, if using, and mix well.
Using a tablespoon, drop the dough onto the prepared baking sheets, 2 inches apart.
Bake for 14 to 16 minutes, until the edges are golden brown. Cool on sheets for 5 minutes, then transfer to wire racks to cool completely.
These delightful little raisin biscuits are based on the ancient fig roll pastry—preserved fruit wrapped in dough. Think of them as your handmade version of Fig Newtons. Until the late 1800s, a doctor’s common diagnosis for most illnesses was “digestion problems,” to which the treatment was daily intake of biscuits and fruit. Handmade and locally produced, fig rolls were the ideal solution to the problem. Serve these hunger-satisfying cookies with afternoon tea or coffee; they’ll tide you over until supper. Makes 2 dozen
3 cups sugar
¾ cup lard, softened, plus more for greasing the pans
½ teaspoon salt
3 eggs
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1 teaspoon baking soda dissolved in 1 teaspoon vinegar
1 cup milk
3 teaspoons baking powder
2 to 3 cups all-purpose unbleached flour
1 pound raisins
1 cup water
In a large bowl, using a wooden spoon, cream together 2 scant cups sugar, the lard, and salt until fluffy. Add 2 eggs, 1 teaspoon of vanilla, the dissolved baking soda, milk, baking powder, and enough flour to make the dough stick together in a ball. Cut the dough in half and press each half into a disk. Wrap each disk tightly in plastic and refrigerate overnight.
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Remove the dough from the refrigerator and let stand while you prepare the filling. Grease two baking sheets with lard and set aside.
To prepare the filling, place the raisins in the bowl of a food processor fitted with a metal blade; grind to a coarse paste. Combine the raisins, the remaining 1 cup of sugar, and the water in a saucepan over low heat; cook for 5 minutes. Add 2 tablespoons of flour and whisk to thicken; cook for 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the remaining 1 teaspoon of vanilla; set aside to cool.
Turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface. Using a floured rolling pin, roll the dough to a ¼-inch thickness. Use a 2½-inch round cookie or biscuit cutter dipped in sugar to cut out the cookies. Transfer the dough rounds to the prepared baking sheets.
Place about 1 tablespoon of the raisin mixture in the center of each dough round; cover with another dough round. Press or crimp together the edges to seal the filling inside.
In a small bowl, beat the remaining egg until frothy. Using a pastry brush, paint each cookie with the beaten egg.
Bake for 10 minutes, until the cookies are golden brown and doubled in size. Cool on the baking sheets for 10 minutes, then transfer to wire racks to cool completely.
Microwave to Render Lard Many people do not like to render lard because it takes a long time and smells up the kitchen. Somewhere in my travels I received an easy recipe for rendering lard and have been using it for years. We raise our own pigs, so we always have the fat available, but I’m sure any butcher shop could supply the fat.
Cut the fat in small pieces and put them in a flat-bottomed glass dish. Microwave for 10 to 12 minutes. Pour the hot lard through a strainer into glass canning jars. Put the caps on and you are done!
The cracklings are what you strain out. Some people like to eat them, but I find them too “fatty.” We use the lard for pies, deep-frying, and anything else that calls for shortening.
Kathy Bednarski, Florence, Wisconsin
These healthier cookies will be devoured by kids of all ages. The dates, walnuts, and oats provide nutrition in the form of fiber, fat, and complex carbohydrates, respectively, which will help fuel their bodies and minds while doin’ readin’, writin’, and ’rithmetic. And better still, they won’t come home feeling ravenous and bedraggled. Pack these cookies in the freezer and dole them out all month in lunch boxes. Makes 4 dozen
1 cup lard, softened, plus more for greasing the pans
1 cup sugar
2 eggs, beaten
¼ cup fresh orange juice
2 tablespoons grated orange zest
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 cups all-purpose unbleached flour
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking soda
2 cups quick-cooking oats
½ cup chopped dates
½ cup chopped walnuts
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Grease two baking sheets with lard and set aside.
In a large bowl, using an electric hand mixer on low speed, cream together the lard and sugar thoroughly. Add the eggs and beat well. Add the orange juice, zest, and vanilla.
In a separate bowl, sift together the flour, salt, and baking soda; mix into the creamed mixture. Stir in the oats, dates, and walnuts.
Using a teaspoon, drop by the spoonful onto the prepared baking sheets, 2 inches apart. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes, until the tops are set and the edges are golden brown. Transfer the cookies to wire racks to cool completely.
Refrigerator cookies, also known as icebox cookies, are made from a stiff dough that stiffens further when refrigerated. The dough is shaped into rolls, then sliced into round cookies before baking. If you love the convenience of those cookie dough cylinders sold in the refrigerated aisle of the supermarket, make your own version, devoid of ingredients you can’t pronounce. You can refrigerate the dough for a week to 10 days, and you can freeze the cookies. Makes 7 dozen
1 cup lard, softened
½ cup granulated sugar
½ cup brown sugar, packed
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 egg
2½ cups all-purpose unbleached flour
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon baking soda
1 tablespoon grated lemon zest
½ cup chopped nuts of your choice
In a large bowl, cream together the lard and sugars using an electric mixer on low speed. Add the lemon juice and egg; beat well.
In a separate bowl, sift together the flour, salt, and baking soda; add to the creamed mixture and beat until well combined. Stir in the lemon zest and nuts.
Divide the dough in half and roll into logs about 2 inches in diameter. Wrap the roll first in wax paper, then in plastic. Chill thoroughly in the refrigerator.
To bake the cookies, preheat the oven to 400°F. Cut the log into ⅛-inch slices and place on ungreased baking sheets. Bake for 10 minutes, until the cookies are set and the edges are golden brown.
These little tropical mounds—dark chocolate–coconut cookies with a hint of coffee, covered in a shiny chocolate icing and topped with an ethereal mound of white coconut—are a sight to behold and heavenly to taste. You won’t be able to stop at just one. Makes 3½ dozen
½ cup lard, softened, plus more for greasing the pans
2 cups all-purpose unbleached flour, sifted
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon baking soda
3 (1-ounce) squares unsweetened chocolate
¼ cup hot coffee
1 cup brown sugar, packed
1 egg
⅔ cup sour cream
1 cup finely shredded unsweetened coconut
ICING
1 (1-ounce) square unsweetened chocolate
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon salted butter
1 cup confectioners’ sugar
2 tablespoons half-and-half
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Grease two baking sheets with lard and set aside.
In a medium bowl, sift together the flour, salt, and baking soda. Set aside.
In a saucepan over low heat, combine the chocolate and hot coffee; heat until the chocolate is melted, stirring frequently. Remove from the heat and let cool.
In a large bowl, cream the lard with the brown sugar, using an electric mixer on low speed. Blend in the egg and cooled chocolate mixture. Alternately, add the sifted mixture and the sour cream to the creamed mixture, beating well after each addition. Stir in ⅓ cup coconut.
Using a teaspoon, drop the dough by heaping spoonfuls onto the prepared baking sheets.
Bake for 12 to 15 minutes, until set. Cool the cookies on the baking sheets for 5 minutes, then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely.
Meanwhile, prepare the icing: Melt together the chocolate and butter in a small saucepan over low heat. Whisk in a third of the confectioners’ sugar, then 1 tablespoon of half-and-half, then continue adding the remaining confectioners’ sugar and half-and-half, whisking until smooth. The icing will be somewhere between a thick glaze and a thin frosting.
While the cookies are still warm, drop a dollop of icing on each cookie and sprinkle the tops with the remaining ⅔ cup of coconut. Cool completely, then store in a single layer in a tightly covered container.
Pfeffernüsse, which translates to “pepper nuts,” is a traditional German spiced Christmas cookie with a sweet, peppery flavor. As with most ancient recipes, endless variations exist—some with pepper, some without; some with nuts, some just . . . hard as nuts. Pfeffernüsse are extremely hard when first baked, though they mellow and soften with age. Serve with coffee, tea, or milk for dunking. This recipe will make plenty of cookies with which to spread holiday cheer. Makes 6 to 8 dozen
2 cups molasses
2 cups honey
1 pound brown sugar
1 cup unsalted butter
1 cup lard
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon ground cloves
1 teaspoon allspice
2½ teaspoons cinnamon
3 teaspoons ground anise
½ teaspoon salt
3 eggs, well beaten
16 cups sifted all-purpose unbleached flour
2 tablespoons baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
2 cups confectioners’ sugar
In a large saucepan, combine the molasses, honey, brown sugar, butter, and lard; heat gently until melted together. Remove from the heat and let cool slightly. Stir in the pepper, cloves, allspice, cinnamon, anise, salt, and eggs.
Sift together the sifted flour, baking powder, and baking soda. Gradually stir into the molasses mixture until moistened. Cover with plastic wrap and let stand overnight.
Preheat the oven to 375°F.
Roll the dough into balls about 1 inch in diameter and place 1 inch apart on ungreased baking sheets. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes, until set.
Place the confectioners’ sugar in a paper bag. Working in batches, place several cookies in the bag and shake to coat. Store in airtight cookie tins with a slice of fresh apple or half an orange peel to prevent them from hardening (use more for larger containers). Leave to ripen and mellow for 2 to 3 weeks; then remove the apple or orange peel and store in an airtight jar. The cookies will keep for up to 8 weeks, but they won’t last that long! Freeze for longer storage.
Grandma Stover’s house was a welcoming place for kids to stop after school because she always had a roll of her famous icebox cookies in the refrigerator and she needed no excuse to bake. She’d slice off two cookies per kid (three for her grandkids), and they’d be ready to eat in just under 15 minutes. Makes 5 dozen
1 cup brown sugar, packed
1 cup granulated sugar
½ cup unsalted butter, softened
½ cup lard, softened, plus more for greasing the pan
3 eggs
4½ cups all-purpose unbleached flour
1½ teaspoons baking soda
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 cup finely chopped nuts of your choice
In a large bowl, using an electric mixer on low speed, cream together the sugars, butter, and lard until light and fluffy. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition; set aside.
In a separate bowl, sift the flour, baking soda, salt, and cinnamon; add to the creamed mixture and beat until well combined. Stir in the nuts. With lightly floured hands, divide the dough in half. Shape each half into a 2-inch-diameter log. Wrap each log in wax paper, followed by plastic, and freeze overnight.
To bake the cookies: Preheat the oven to 350°F. Remove the dough from the refrigerator and thaw while the oven is heating. Grease 2 baking sheets with lard.
Slice the logs into ¼-inch-thick slices and bake for 10 to 12 minutes, until the cookies are set and the edges are just golden brown. Transfer to wire racks to cool.
Believe it or not, yams and sweet potatoes are botanically unrelated, though the two terms have been used interchangeably since the 1940s when sweet potato growers in Louisiana decided that labeling their crop “Louisiana Yams” had a certain panache. All “yams” marketed in the United States are actually sweet potatoes, as the true yam is not grown or sold anywhere stateside. These cookies represent a fine solution to leftover “yams” from your holiday meal. Makes 6 dozen
¾ cup lard, softened, plus more for greasing the pans
¼ cup salted butter
1½ cups brown sugar, packed
2 eggs, beaten
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 cup buttermilk
2 cups sifted all-purpose unbleached flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
¼ teaspoon salt
1½ cups mashed sweet potatoes
¼ cup chopped pecans
GLAZE
2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons salted butter, melted
1 to 1¼ cups confectioners’ sugar
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
¼ teaspoon grated lemon zest
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease two baking sheets with lard and set aside.
In a large bowl, using an electric mixer on low speed, cream together the lard, butter, and brown sugar until fluffy; beat in the eggs, lemon juice, vanilla, and buttermilk.
In a separate bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Add the dry ingredients to the creamed mixture and blend well. Fold in the sweet potatoes and nuts.
Using a teaspoon, drop by spoonfuls onto the prepared baking sheets. Bake for 15 minutes, until the cookie edges are lightly browned. Transfer to a wire rack to cool.
To prepare the glaze, combine all the ingredients in a small bowl and whisk thoroughly, adding more lemon juice, water, or sugar to achieve the consistency of a thin paste. Using a teaspoon, drop a dollop of glaze over each cookie.
HOW HEALTHY IS PROCESSED? Growing up on a farm, we raised our own meat, including pigs. We used the fat and rendered our own lard. That is all we used.
I didn’t have a special recipe for anything because whenever a recipe called for shortening, I used lard.
Being on my own without a family and reading the back of a shortening can, I discovered there is a lot of stuff added to the can. How healthy is that?
Lately I have been searching for a producer so I can get pig fat and render my own lard.
Barb Malikowski, Foley, Minnesota
During World War II, lots of common pantry staples were rationed, including butter, eggs, and sugar. As a result, a whole generation of bakers learned to do without and make appropriate substitutions where they could (see World War II Cake). This recipe replaces half the sugar with honey, reflecting the creator’s make-do attitude of the time. As an added benefit of this substitution, honey extends the shelf life of these cookies due to its antibacterial properties. Makes 16
½ cup lard, softened, plus more for greasing the pan
½ cup sugar
½ cup honey
1 egg
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
⅔ cup all-purpose unbleached flour
½ teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
¼ teaspoon salt
1 cup old-fashioned oats
1 cup unsweetened flaked coconut
½ cup chopped nuts of your choice
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly grease a 13 by 9-inch baking pan with lard and set aside.
In a large bowl, combine the lard, sugar, and honey; mix well. Add the egg and vanilla; mix well and set aside.
In a separate bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Add the sifted ingredients to the honey mixture and stir just until combined. Fold in the oats, coconut, and nuts.
Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Bake for 25 to 35 minutes, until the top is light golden brown and the center is set. Cool completely on wire racks and cut into squares or bars.
Pralines, a specialty of New Orleans and the South, originated with French settlers in Louisiana who found abundant sugarcane and pecan trees. Praline recipes are a many splendored thing with countless recipes, formulations, and textures, but they’re all basically the melding of burnt sugar and crunchy nuts. Burnt-sugar flavoring is available online through candy and spice suppliers. Makes 8 dozen
⅔ cup lard, softened, plus more for greasing the pans
1¾ cups all-purpose unbleached flour, plus more for dusting the pans
1 cup sugar
½ cup mild molasses
2 eggs
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
1 teaspoon burnt sugar flavoring
½ teaspoon baking soda
¼ teaspoon ground mace
¼ teaspoon salt
1½ to 2 cups chopped pecans
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Grease two baking sheets with lard; dust lightly with flour and set aside.
In a saucepan over low heat, slowly melt the lard; remove from the heat and let cool. Transfer the melted lard to a large bowl. Add the sugar and molasses and stir well. Add the eggs, vanilla, and burnt sugar flavoring and mix well.
In a large bowl, sift together the flour, baking soda, mace, and salt ; add to the molasses mixture, mixing well. Stir in the nuts.
Drop by scant teaspoonfuls onto the prepared baking sheets, 2 inches apart. Bake for 8 to 10 minutes, until golden brown. Immediately transfer the cookies to wire racks to cool.
When the Amish people settled in America, they gravitated to rural areas where wheat, rye, corn, and barley flourished. As a result, grain products such as bread, cornmeal, and oatmeal became staples of their diet. They don’t eat processed food, sticking mainly to products produced on their own farms. Amish women are prolific bakers and they take their baked goods seriously. This recipe reflects their food philosophy and is an interesting take on the usual oatmeal cookie. Makes 5 dozen
1½ cups raisins
1 cup peanuts
6 cups all-purpose unbleached flour
2 tablespoons baking powder
1 teaspoon nutmeg
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 teaspoon salt
1½ cups lard, cold and coarsely chopped, plus more for greasing the pans
3 cups sugar
2½ cups old-fashioned oats
2 tablespoons baking soda
1 cup buttermilk
½ cup dark molasses
5 eggs
Combine the raisins and peanuts in the bowl of a food processor fitted with a metal blade; grind coarsely. Set aside.
In a very large bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder, nutmeg, cinnamon, and salt. Using a pastry blender, cut in the lard until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Stir in the sugar, oats, and raisin mixture, mixing well.
Dissolve the baking soda in the buttermilk; add to the dough and mix. Add the molasses and 3 beaten eggs, stirring well to combine. Cover the dough with plastic wrap and chill for 1 hour.
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Grease two baking sheets with lard and set aside.
Using your hands, roll the dough into walnut-sized balls and place on the prepared baking sheets. Using a spatula, press down on the balls to flatten slightly.
In a small bowl, beat the remaining 2 eggs and brush on each cookie. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes, until golden brown. Transfer the cookies to wire racks to cool.
Chewy, nutty, and sporting that telltale crosshatch pattern, these peanut butter cookies are what you remember eating at grandma’s house. And they even take advantage of her secret ingredient—instant pudding. Use either creamy or crunchy peanut butter for variation. Serve with a tall glass of milk, of course. Makes 2½ dozen
⅓ cup lard, softened, plus more for greasing the pans
1 cup all-purpose unbleached flour
½ teaspoon baking soda
⅛ teaspoon salt
½ cup creamy or chunky peanut butter
1 (4-serving-size) package instant vanilla pudding mix
1 egg
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Grease two baking sheets with lard and set aside.
In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking soda, and salt; set aside.
In a large bowl, using an electric mixer on low speed, cream the lard; blend in the peanut butter and pudding mix. Add the egg and beat until light and fluffy. Gradually add the flour mixture, beating well after each addition, until the dough is smooth.
Roll the dough into small balls and place on the prepared baking sheets. Using a fork, flatten each cookie; turn the fork 90 degrees and repeat, creating a crosshatch pattern.
Bake for 10 to 12 minutes, until lightly browned. Transfer to wire racks to cool completely.
Endless oddball recipes have been created as the result of prolific squash plants—and this is another one. Delicious and nutritious Zookies are a good way to use the scores of zucchini from your garden. So next summer, instead of sneaking bags of zucchini into your friends’ and neighbors’ unlocked cars, present them with bags of Zookies. They’ll be pleasantly surprised. Makes 4 dozen
½ cup lard, softened, plus more for greasing the pans
1 cup brown sugar, packed
1 egg
1 teaspoon grated orange zest
¾ teaspoon cinnamon
¼ teaspoon nutmeg
¼ teaspoon cloves
½ teaspoon salt
1¾ to 2 cups all-purpose unbleached flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
¼ cup milk
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1½ cups shredded unpeeled zucchini
½ cup raisins
½ cup chopped pecans
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Lightly grease two baking sheets with lard and set aside.
In a large bowl, using an electric mixer on low speed, cream the lard; add the brown sugar and beat until fluffy. Add the egg, orange zest, cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, and salt, mixing well to combine. In a small bowl, combine the flour and baking powder. Alternately add the flour mixture and the milk to the creamed mixture, beating well after each addition. Fold in the vanilla, zucchini, raisins, and pecans.
Using a tablespoon, drop by the spoonful onto the prepared baking sheets. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes, until golden brown. Cool for 5 minutes on the sheets, then transfer to wire racks to cool completely.
In 1989, New Mexico deemed the bizcochito its official state cookie, making it the first state to have an official cookie. Seldom known outside of Hispanic cultures, bizcochitos are spicy, anise-flavored cookies served for special occasions such as weddings, baptisms, and especially Christmas. New Mexico chose bizcochitos in an effort to preserve traditional home baking and cookery. Serve with coffee on Christmas morning. Makes 2 to 3 dozen, depending on size/shape of cutter
2 cups lard, softened, plus more for greasing the pans
1½ cups sugar
1½ teaspoons anise seeds
2 eggs, well beaten
6 cups sifted all-purpose unbleached flour
3 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
¼ cup water or brandy
1 teaspoon cinnamon
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Grease two baking sheets with lard and set aside.
In a large bowl, using an electric mixer on low speed, cream together the lard and 1 cup sugar; add the anise seeds and mix. Beat in the eggs until light and fluffy.
In a very large bowl, sift the sifted flour with the baking powder and salt; add to the creamed mixture and beat until well combined. Add the water or brandy and knead until well mixed.
Turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface. Using a floured rolling pin, roll the dough to a ½-inch thickness and cut into circles or fancy shapes (the fleur-de-lis shape is traditional).
Place the remaining ½ cup of sugar and the cinnamon in a small bowl; mix to combine. Roll the top of each cookie in the sugar mixture and place on the prepared baking sheets.
Bake for 15 minutes, until lightly browned. Transfer the cookies to wire racks to cool completely.
There’s a reason so many candy bars and sweet confections are based on the solid combination of chocolate and caramel—it’s simply divine. Look for the bagged caramels that are sold sans wrappers for a time-saving bonus on this classic. Makes 16
⅔ cup lard, softened, plus more for greasing the pan
1½ cups light brown sugar, packed
2 tablespoons water
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 eggs
1½ cups all-purpose unbleached flour
⅓ cup unsweetened cocoa
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon baking soda
1 (14-ounce) bag caramels (40 to 45 pieces)
1 cup semisweet chocolate chips
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a 13 by 9-inch baking pan with lard; set aside.
In a large bowl, cream the lard and sugar with 1 tablespoon of water and the vanilla, using an electric mixer on medium speed. Beat in the eggs.
In a separate bowl, whisk together the flour, cocoa, salt, and baking soda. Mix into the creamed mixture at low speed just until blended.
Place the caramels and the remaining 1 tablespoon of water in a microwave-safe bowl. Heat in the microwave on full power for 2 minutes; stir. Heat an additional minute if the caramels are not fully melted.
Spread half the cocoa mixture in the prepared pan. Using a rubber spatula, gently spread the caramel evenly over the cocoa mixture. Sprinkle the chocolate chips evenly over the top. Cover with the remaining cocoa mixture.
Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Cool in the pan on a wire rack. Cut into bars.
You’ve seen (or eaten) the everything bagel . . . well, here is the everything cookie. Calico Squares are so named to reflect their virtual calico quilt of flavors and textures. Many recipe variations exist, including those with almonds, oats, chocolate chips, white chocolate chips, dried cranberries, or anything else you’ve got in the pantry to contribute to the making of this soft oatmeal cookie. Have fun creating your own combinations. Makes 12
½ cup lard, plus more for greasing the pan
1 cup chopped black walnuts
1 cup chopped maraschino or candied cherries
½ cup raisins
2 eggs, slightly beaten
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
1 tablespoon grated orange zest
1⅓ cups all-purpose unbleached flour
½ teaspoon baking soda
⅛ teaspoon salt
1 (6-ounce) package butterscotch chips
½ cup brown sugar, packed
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a 13 by 9 by 2-inch pan with lard and set aside.
In a medium bowl, combine the walnuts, cherries, raisins, eggs, granulated sugar, and orange zest; set aside.
In a separate bowl, sift together the flour, baking soda, and salt; set aside.
In a double boiler over hot water, melt together the butterscotch chips and lard, stirring frequently; remove from the heat and beat in the brown sugar. Stir in the sifted ingredients and mix well.
Spread the batter in the prepared pan and bake for 15 minutes. Remove from the oven and cover with the reserved walnut mixture. Return to the oven and bake for an additional 20 minutes. Cool completely on a wire rack and then cut into squares.
This old-fashioned country favorite will soon be your favorite, too. Back in the day, coffee was expensive, so it was reserved for the hard-working adults of the household. With that in mind, a frosted coffee-flavored snack bar was something that tickled the hearts, and taste buds, of rural folks when presented with one. Makes 2 dozen
1 cup lard, softened, plus more for greasing the pans
1 cup brown sugar, packed
1 cup granulated sugar
3 eggs
3 cups sifted all-purpose unbleached flour
1 teaspoon cinnamon
½ teaspoon ginger
½ teaspoon nutmeg
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon salt
1 cup strong coffee, cold
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
½ cup chopped nuts of your choice
ICING
4 tablespoons salted butter
¼ cup hot coffee
2 cups confectioners’ sugar
Pinch of salt
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
Preheat the oven to 325°F. Grease two 13 by 9-inch pans with lard and set aside.
In a large bowl, using an electric mixer on low speed, cream together the sugars and lard; add the eggs and beat until fluffy.
In a separate bowl, sift together the flour, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, baking powder, baking soda, and salt.
Alternately add the flour mixture and cold coffee to the creamed mixture, starting and ending with the flour mixture, beating well after each addition. Stir in the vanilla and nuts. Divide the mixture evenly between the two prepared pans.
Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Cool on a wire rack.
To prepare the icing, combine the butter and hot coffee in a medium bowl. Add the confectioners’ sugar, salt, and vanilla; whisk until smooth. Using an offset spatula, divide and spread the icing evenly between the two pans. Cut each pan into 12 bars.
RETHINKING STANCE Yes, my mother and grandmother—in Wooster, Ohio—both used lard for pie crusts and said nothing else would make such a flaky crust. They also used lard in gingerbread cookies. But as I grew up and saw that lard had such a bad rap, I ended up not using it. I never could make decent pie crusts, so I just buy commercial ones if I ever make a pie.
I’ll rethink my prejudices and give lard a try again.
Kathy Foster, Rutherfordton, North Carolina
The proof is not in the pudding, but in the applesauce, which makes these brownies extra moist and sweet. Applesauce often is added to baked goods to add moisture without fat. No one can pass up these gooey morsels with frosting on top. Makes 2 dozen
½ cup lard, softened, plus more for greasing the pan
1 cup all-purpose unbleached flour, plus more for dusting the pan
1 cup granulated sugar
2 eggs
½ cup plus 1 tablespoon applesauce
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
3 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa
½ teaspoon baking powder
¼ teaspoon baking soda
¼ teaspoon salt
½ cup chopped walnuts
1 tablespoon salted butter
1 cup confectioners’ sugar
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a 9 by 9-inch baking pan with lard; lightly dust with flour and set aside.
In a large bowl, using an electric mixer on low speed, cream together the lard and granulated sugar. Add the eggs and continue beating. Add ½ cup of applesauce and the vanilla; beat until smooth.
In a large bowl, sift together the flour, 2 tablespoons of cocoa, the baking powder, baking soda, and salt; add gradually to the creamed mixture and mix well. Fold in the walnuts.
Spread the batter in the prepared pan. Bake for 35 minutes. While still warm, cut into squares or bars; remove from the pan and cool on a wire rack.
To make the frosting, combine the butter, the remaining 1 tablespoon of applesauce, the remaining 1 tablespoon of cocoa, and the confectioners’ sugar in a medium bowl; blend until smooth. If you prefer a thicker frosting, add a little more applesauce and confectioners’ sugar. Spread the frosting on the cooled brownies.
STRAINING THE LARD Lard comes from big pigs! They make noise and are bigger than the men who raise them. In the 1940s, all pigs were bigger and fatter. The biggest on our place was the grouchy old sow that could no longer raise the desired number of piglets. After a single, swift plunge of Grandpa Miller’s very sharp knife, the sow was soon hoisted into the scalding vat in preparation to being scraped clean.
As a girl, I didn’t pay attention to how many family and friends gathered to butcher or even if they usually did more than one pig at a time. Considering the large vat, they probably butchered for more than one family at a time. Nor do I remember how they set up tables to do the cutting. I do remember Grandma rendering/cooking the fat in her big black soup kettle in the yard.
By afternoon, she began my favorite part of the process—straining the lard. The liquid in the pot was dipped into a bucket and strained through a white cloth. What remained of the cooked fat was put into the press, and the last drips squeezed out to save for cooking and other tasks. I really liked to see it come out brown and almost crisp. After squeezing, it made tastier “cracklings.” The pork rinds in the store now don’t really compare in taste or texture.
My other grandma couldn’t give me her recipe for her delicious oatmeal cookies, so I asked her to make them while I measured her pinches, spoonfuls, and cupfuls of spices, flour, oatmeal, and other ingredients. Then came her admonition that they would never taste right made with melted Crisco—they should be made with lard. And she was right.
Verna Rundell, Syracuse, Kansas
When nothing but chocolate will do, turn to these intensely flavored dark brownies with icing. To make your own chocolate syrup, combine 1 cup of unsweetened cocoa, 1½ cups of sugar, a pinch of salt, 1½ cups of water, and 1 teaspoon of vanilla extract in a saucepan over medium-high heat. Heat to boiling, stirring constantly, for 3 to 5 minutes, until the syrup thickens. Cool and store in a jar in the refrigerator. It’s more work than buying a squeeze bottle or a can, but your effort will be rewarded with the rich chocolate taste. Makes 2 dozen
½ cup lard, softened, plus more for greasing the pan
1 cup chocolate syrup
¾ cup sifted cake flour
¼ teaspoon baking powder
¼ teaspoon salt
2 eggs, well beaten
¾ cup chopped pecans
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
ICING
1 tablespoon salted butter
1 tablespoon lard
3 tablespoons milk
2 tablespoons cocoa
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 to 1½ cups confectioners’ sugar
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a 9 by 9-inch pan with lard and set aside.
In a large bowl, using the back of a spoon, cream the lard until fluffy and creamy. Add the chocolate syrup gradually, continuing to work with the spoon, until light.
In a separate bowl, sift together the sifted flour, baking powder, and salt; add a quarter of the flour mixture to the lard mixture while beating with the spoon. Add the eggs, then the remaining sifted ingredients, the pecans, and vanilla. Spread the batter in the prepared pan.
Bake for 35 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Set on a wire rack to cool slightly.
To make the icing, melt the butter and lard in a small saucepan over low heat. Whisk in the milk, cocoa, vanilla, and enough confectioners’ sugar to bring the icing to a spreading consistency. Remove the pan from the heat and cool slightly. Spread the icing over the warm brownies, then immediately cut them into squares.
The day after Thanksgiving is a great time to make these bars using leftover fresh pureed pumpkin. If you haven’t got any, though, use good old Libby’s in a can (pure pumpkin, not pumpkin pie mix), which won top honors in a taste test for its creamy texture and mild sweetness. You can substitute pureed butternut squash in this recipe for an equally sweet taste and pleasing texture. Makes 16
BARS
½ cup lard, softened, plus more for greasing the pan
2 cups all-purpose unbleached flour
4 teaspoons baking powder
1¼ teaspoons cinnamon
1 teaspoon nutmeg
1 teaspoon ginger
½ teaspoon salt
1 cup brown sugar, packed
¼ cup granulated sugar
4 eggs
1 (15-ounce) can pureed pumpkin
ICING
1 (3-ounce) package cream cheese, softened
1 tablespoon butter, softened
1 tablespoon milk
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2½ cups confectioners’ sugar
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a 15½ by 10½-inch jelly roll pan with lard; set aside.
In a medium bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder, cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger, and salt; set aside. In a large bowl, cream together the lard and sugars using an electric mixer on medium speed until light and fluffy. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Beat in the pumpkin. Stir in the dry ingredients gradually, mixing well. Spread the mixture in the prepared pan.
Bake for 30 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Cool in the pan on a wire rack.
To make the icing, combine the cream cheese, butter, milk, and vanilla in a medium bowl; add half the confectioners’ sugar and beat until smooth. Add the remaining confectioners’ sugar and beat until no lumps remain. Using an offset spatula, spread the icing over the cooled bars and cut into pieces.
If you love a good blondie—a brownie with a brown sugar rather than a cocoa base—and the flavor of peanut butter, then you’ll adore these brownies. This recipe is a big batch—it makes 80 brownies in three large pans, so save this for your kid’s bake sale or your next family reunion, or reduce it by a third for a more typical yield of 2 dozen. Makes 80
½ cup lard, softened, plus more for greasing the pan
6 eggs
3 cups granulated sugar
1½ cups brown sugar, packed
1 cup peanut butter
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
4 cups all-purpose unbleached flour
1½ tablespoons baking powder
1½ teaspoons salt
1 cup chopped peanuts
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease two 15½ by 10½ by 1-inch pans or three 13 by 9 by 2-inch pans with lard; set aside.
In a very large bowl, combine the eggs, sugars, peanut butter, lard, and vanilla; using an electric mixer on medium speed, beat well. Add the flour, baking powder, and salt; mix until smooth.
Distribute the batter evenly into the prepared pans and sprinkle each pan with the nuts.
Bake for 20 minutes, until golden brown and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Cool completely on wire racks. Cut into bars.
If your family loves oatmeal cookies, kick ’em up a notch with these snack bars bursting with chocolate, butterscotch, and oatmeal. There’s no shortage of oatmeal in these bars—3 cups—which means they deliver the nutty, oaty flavor and chewy texture you’d expect. Makes 12 to 20 (depending on whether they’re chewy or crispy)
¾ cup lard, softened, plus more for greasing the pans
1 cup brown sugar, packed
½ cup granulated sugar
1 extra large egg or 2 small eggs
¼ cup water
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
½ teaspoon rum extract
1 cup all-purpose unbleached flour
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon baking soda
3 cups old-fashioned oats
½ cup chocolate chips
½ cup butterscotch chips
Preheat the oven to 350°F. For thin, crispy bars, grease one 9 by 12-inch pan and one 8 by 8-inch pan with lard; for chewy bars, grease one 13 by 9-inch baking pan. Set aside.
In a large bowl, combine the lard, sugars, egg, water, and vanilla and rum extracts. Using an electric mixer on low speed, beat until fluffy. Add the flour, salt, and baking soda and mix well. Stir in the oats and chips.
Press the dough into the prepared pan(s) and bake for 20 minutes, until lightly browned. Cool completely in the pans on wire racks and then cut into bars.
