Evening out the skin tone in your face is the hardest and most important part of any makeup application. Getting it perfect is everything. The trick is to look like you aren’t wearing any makeup at all. And that’s all about matching your makeup to your skin tone.
The reason we wear concealer, foundation, and blush is to improve the way our skin looks. Everyone’s skin is different, so the formula for getting that natural look will be unique to you. Some girls need foundation all over, some just a little concealer under the eyes, and some just need spot foundation to cover blemishes.
It is about having the right products and knowing how to use them so that your skin looks better. This isn’t your mother’s makeup. We aren’t trying to hide under pancake. That’s a mistake I see a lot of young women make. They buy foundation that they haven’t tried and put on a thick layer to cover blemishes. The result? It looks like they are wearing a thick covering of makeup.
That’s right; we actually want to see your skin. Once you learn how to even out the tone, remove the redness, erase the dark circles, and add color to your cheeks, you’ll love what you see, too.
The name says it all. Concealers literally conceal things on your face or body. There are concealers that can hide anything, such as tattoos or scars, but the most common use is for lightening dark under-eye circles. The product should have a creamy texture for easy blending, and the tone is always lighter than the skin to create the brightening effect. Concealer is not for covering blemishes because the correct color for lightening dark circles will be too light to cover your pimple. It would actually make your blemish stick out. Apply concealer before you put on any other makeup because sometimes after you add concealer and brighten up the eyes, you don’t even need foundation. You can wear concealer without foundation, but you can’t wear foundation without concealer.
No matter what color you are—from very pale to dark brown—concealer should be one or two shades lighter than your skin. The product should also have yellow tones that help to lighten under the eyes.
Start with a sheer eye cream, especially if you have dry skin. Using a brush or your finger, apply the concealer under the eye starting at the inner corner of the eye. Cover the entire dark area below the lashes with the product and then blend by pressing it into the skin with your finger. Layer with a sheer yellow powder to lock the product in place and also to help blend it into the skin tone.
If you don’t need a lot of coverage, a stick foundation that’s one or two shades lighter than the face can work as an under-eye concealer for those days when you wake up extra tired. If you are using regular concealer and it winds up looking too light on your face, warm up the area under your eye with a very light dusting of bronzing powder.
If you are extra dark under your eyes (sometimes with green or purple shades), try a corrector for more brightening. Corrector looks a lot like concealer, but this product brightens and lightens the area under the eye by correcting the color (concealer simply lightens the area). Use one with pinky tones for light to medium-light skin, and one with peach tones for medium-dark to dark skin. The corrector goes on first under the eye, starting with a brush on the deepest, darkest section and moving from the lash line down. Sometimes you need to apply more corrector than you would concealer, and even a second layer to correct the colors. After using corrector, you probably will need less concealer, if any at all.
Foundation evens out the skin’s tone and texture. It should be a natural tone and light texture because the end goal is clear and smooth skin. There are a lot of different formulas, including liquid, cream, and powder. For teens, I generally prefer tinted moisturizers because they are sheer and lightweight and often have the added value of SPF. You want your foundation to be diluted so that you can see your skin underneath. A denser stick foundation works for pimple coverage. A blemish cover stick is also great for covering the pimple and having it blend in to the skin tone.
Foundation in the right shade will disappear on the skin. The wrong shade will change the color of your face. You have to try different shades on your face to know which is the right one for you—preferably before you buy the product. At the store, cover a spot and look in a mirror that’s near a window or a door. You will get the most accurate sense of how the color works on you if you can see it in natural light. If you see a little bit of pinkness on your skin, it’s the wrong shade. There is nothing worse than looking like you applied a layer of calamine lotion to your face. Double-check the foundation color on your forehead, where the skin is sometimes darker. If it matches on the forehead, it will work everywhere.
STICK is good for dry to medium skin.
LIQUID offers sheer to full coverage, depending on your skin type.
POWDER is only for oily skin.
TINTED MOISTURIZER is usually my go-to formula for great skin.
No matter what formula of foundation you use, your fingers are the best application tool. Your body temperature will warm up the product, making it easier to spread. Plus, you’ll have the most control using your own hands (just make sure they are clean before you get started). You can also choose to use a sponge or foundation brush. Begin by applying a small amount of foundation around the nose (sometimes it’s all that’s needed). Then move outward, blending the foundation upward and into the hairline.
PRO TIP
Some people actually have more color in their face than their neck. If your face doesn’t seem to match your neck (sometimes you are a bit darker on the face due to sun, irritation, and other things), brush your neck with a bronzer (click here for more on bronzer).
I think every girl should own two foundations. You need one for winter months, when your skin is pale, and another for the summer, when you can’t help but get slightly darker. You can mix the two foundations to create your own custom color for those times of the year when your skin is in between shades or to fix any areas of your face that are darker or lighter. You can also make your own tinted moisturizer: mix a bit of foundation with your favorite moisturizer in your hand, then apply to your face.
After you apply your overall foundation, use a blemish cover stick or foundation stick on any spots that don’t have enough coverage.
Because Hayley’s neck is lighter than her face, I brushed on a bronzer to bring up the color. To complement her freckles and auburn hair, I filled in her brows with a taupe color. Then, I added a light shadow to her lids and a brown eyeliner. I still like black mascara for lighter lashes, and I brought out the natural tones in her lips with a warm pink.
Blush makes you look fresh, pretty, and healthy. There are tons of blushes out there, so finding the right one for you can seem daunting. Go for the natural look, the one that says, “I’ve just had a great night’s sleep and taken a fresh morning walk on a beautiful sunny beach.” To replicate that healthy glow, check out the color of your cheeks right after you’ve had a good workout. That’s the blush you’re looking for. When you go to the store, remind yourself of the color by pinching your cheeks. Hold up different shades of blush next to your cheeks to see how they change the appearance of your skin, eyes, and even lips. You’ll know the color isn’t working if it looks too orange or if it makes your skin seem dull. When you hit upon the right shade, it will be, well, pretty.
Smile to find the apples of your cheeks, which are the fleshiest parts of your face. Apply the blush to the apples with a brush or your fingers.
Blend the blush up toward the hairline and down the cheeks to blend in with your skin.
Start slow and build the color. If you are using powder, blow a little off the brush before beginning so it doesn’t stick. Layer one to two colors to get a pop on the cheek. If you are using your finger for creams, gels, or tints, dab lightly at first.
Stand back and bask in the glow of your beautiful cheeks.
Blush fades in a few minutes, so applying two coats of either the same color or a brighter color on top, in the same formula, makes it last longer.
For the best blush application, you need to get the right shape of brush. The skinny ones that come with the compact don’t allow you to apply blush correctly; you need a full brush. If you don’t want to fork over a ton of cash for a blush brush, head to my favorite beauty spot—the art-supply store—and get a soft, fluffy paint-brush.
It’s important to take care of your brushes. To clean any brush with bristles, take a drop of gentle soap (like baby shampoo) into your palm, wet the brush, and swish the bristles in your palm to get them really soapy. Rinse thoroughly until all the soap is gone. Squeeze out the excess water with a clean towel, and reshape the brush head before you let it air-dry. Don’t dry the brush on a towel because that can cause mildew to grow in the bristles. Instead, let the brush head hang off the side of a counter. Don’t soak your brushes in water, either, because that will loosen the glue that holds the bristles and cause them to fall apart. If you clean your brushes every month or two, you’ll really extend their life and save a lot of money.
There are hundreds of brushes out there. You don’t need all of the basic ones below—some people start with a blush brush, others with an eyeliner brush. No matter which one you use, save up for quality brushes. They make a difference.
