Makes 1 kg (2 lb 4 oz)

As the name suggests, sauerkraut is soured cabbage, which has been through a fermentation stage to change its sulphurous notes to make it into a more acidic and complex vegetable. Serve it with the world’s best hot dog, on a Reuben sandwich or as an accompaniment to any cured meat dish. You can substitute the seeds with 3 tablespoons fresh chopped dill fronds.

2 kg (4 lb 8 oz) white cabbage

2 tablespoons pure fine sea salt

1 tablespoon caraway seeds or dill seeds (optional)

Shred the cabbage as finely as you can. This step is not important for pickled cabbage (opposite) but it is for sauerkraut; a mandolin works best.

Put the cabbage and salt in a large bowl and use your hands to massage the salt into the cabbage to release the juice until there’s enough juice to cover it. Transfer to a container with a wide lid (a sterilised bucket or similar is good). If you want to flavour the sauerkraut with caraway seeds or dill seeds, add them now. Place a plate on top and weigh it down to keep it submerged — it’s important that the cabbage doesn’t float. If need be, add a little brine solution at the ratio of 50 g (1¾ oz) salt for 1 litre (35 fl oz/4 cups) water.

Cover the container with a clean tea towel (dish towel) to keep things out (like vinegar fly), and place in a cool, dark place to ferment. It will take about 1 month at 15° (60°F), about 2 weeks at 20°C (68°F). At 25°C (77°F) it may go a little bit soft, so aim for cooler rather than warmer. At cellar temperature (12°C/54°F), it may take a couple of months to ferment. If there is a white scum forming on top, it could be a mould, so scoop this off and replace with more brine as needed. Taste to make sure it’s good, then transfer to sterilised glass jars and store in the refrigerator or a cool pantry for up to 2 months.