Chapter 7: Ponce & the Southwest

For those who want to see a less urban side of Puerto Rico, head south to Ponce and the breathtaking southwest, for great beaches, dramatic coastal bluffs, and green flatlands unfolding across the horizon to the foothills of the Cordillera Central mountain range. Ponce is a great center for sightseeing, and you can take a side trip to the bonsailike Guánica State Forest; visit Puerto Rico’s second-oldest city and site of the oldest church in the New World, San Germán; and venture north through the island’s central mountains to the lush Toro Negro rainforest. Both nature reserves are hits with hikers and bird-watchers.

Founded in 1692, Ponce is Puerto Rico’s second-largest city, and its historic sectors have been beautifully restored. San Germán and Ponce are home to some of the finest historic architecture in the hemisphere.

Ponce also attracts beach lovers. No, there’s no real beach in town, but to the west are the coastal towns of Guánica, La Parguera, and Boquerón, where the best swimming beaches on the island are located. The southwest is where Puerto Ricans go for holidays by the sea. This is the real Puerto Rico, which hasn’t been taken over by high-rise resorts and posh restaurants.

Puerto Rico’s west coast mimics the U.S. southwest; cacti pop up from sun-baked rock crevices, while cattle graze in the rolling Lajas Valley in the shadow of the majestic central mountains. All across the region, a beautiful western sunset settles over its charming beach towns, with their white sands and aquamarine waters, a quintessential corner of the Caribbean.

Ponce ★★

75 miles (121km) SW of San Juan

Ponce

“The Pearl of the South,” Ponce was named after Loíza Ponce de León, great-grandson of Juan Ponce de León. Founded in 1692, Ponce is today Puerto Rico’s principal shipping port on the Caribbean. The city is well kept and attractive, with an air of being stuck in the past, a provincial colonial town. On weekday afternoons, men dressed in starched guayaberas and hats play dominoes while uniformed school girls run along the large walkways.

Its historic district underwent a $440-million restoration for 1992’s 500th anniversary celebration of Christopher Columbus’s voyage to the New World, and improvements have continued so that it is just as stunning 20 years later. The streets are lit with gas lamps and lined with neoclassical buildings, just as they were a century ago. Horse-drawn carriages roll by, and strollers walk along sidewalks edged with pink marble. Contemporary Ponce has been restored to its former splendor, the city as it was at the turn of the 20th century, when it rivaled San Juan as a wealthy business and cultural center.

Sitting in its sun-bleached plaza on a sunny afternoon, visitors may be struck by Ponce’s heat, and the nearly always-dry weather conditions. Threats of rain are most often held at bay by the Central Mountains; you can see the potential humidity condensing into a violet haze over them in the distance as the late afternoon finally begins to fade.

Essentials

If you’re driving, take Las Américas Expressway south to the Luis A. Ferré Expressway (Hwy. 52), then continue south. Once you pass over the central mountain range and reach the south coast, you will continue west until Ponce. The trip takes about 1 1/2 hours.

Getting Around The town’s inner core is small enough that everything can be visited on foot. Taxis provide the second-best alternative.

Visitor Information Maps and information can be found at the tourist office, Paseo del Sur Plaza, Ste. 3 ( 787/841-8044). It’s open daily from 8am to noon, and 1 to 4pm.

Seeing the Sights

Attractions in Ponce

Most visitors go to Ponce to see the city’s historic section, with the city’s whimsical architectural style beautifully renovated. While the city dates back to 1692, its unique “Ponce Creole” architecture, mixing Spanish colonial, Caribbean, and contemporary influences, was mostly created from the 1850s through the 1930s. The style is marked by the use of wide balconies, distinctive masonry work, and neoclassical touches: plaster garlands, punched tin ceilings, and stained glass panels. Other architectural motifs such as metal grill work are present within specific geographic areas of the city. The style takes European concepts but adapts them to the city’s tropical climate by using pastel colors on building facades and adding high ceilings that help keep houses cool.

The city’s unique architecture was created during the years of Ponce’s heyday, in the 19th century, when it trumped San Juan as the island’s most important city and rose as a regional trading power. Cut off from San Juan because of geographic barriers, Ponce’s trade brought foreign influences and style, which shows in its architecture, as well as its wider culture, including music and cuisine.

In addition to the attractions listed below, the weekday marketplace, open Monday through Friday from 8am to 5pm, at calles Atocha and Castillo, is colorful. Perhaps you’ll want to simply sit in the plaza, watching the Ponceños at one of their favorite pastimes—strolling about town.

Casa de la Masacre de Ponce ★ MUSEUM This small museum is a memorial to one of the bloodiest chapters of political violence in Puerto Rican history—the Ponce Massacre. Police killed 19 people and wounded 100 during a Nationalist Party march in the city on Palm Sunday, March 21, 1937, after shots rang out. Party members had planned a march to protest the imprisonment of their leader Pedro Albizu Campos, but authorities cancelled their permit under pressure from American colonial governor Blanton Winship. The shooting occurred when protesters met up with a police blockade. Protesters and bystanders were among the dead, which included a woman and a 7-year-old girl. The remnants of the Nationalist Party still mark the occasion with a ceremony here each year, and it is an important date for independence supporters. The museum is located at the site of the tragedy in a restored shoemaker’s shop that used to be a meeting place for Nationalist Party members. The museum also documents other episodes of the political persecution of island independentistas, including the infamous carpetas, the secret dossiers that a police intelligence unit, with the backing of U.S. government officials, kept on independence supporters over the course of decades. The museum is a concise review of the political repression of independence supporters and will prove illuminating for many visitors.

At calles Aurora and Marina, Plaza Las Delicias. 787/844-9722. Free admission. Tues–Sun 8:30am–4:20pm.

Cathedral of Our Lady of Guadalupe ★ CATHEDRAL In 1660 a rustic chapel was built on this spot on the western edge of the Plaza Las Delicias, and since then fires and earthquakes have razed the church repeatedly. In 1919, a team of priests collected funds from local parishioners to construct the Doric- and Gothic-inspired building that stands here today. Designed by architects Francisco Porrata Doría and Francisco Trublard in 1931, and featuring a pipe organ installed in 1934, it remains an important place for prayer for many. The cathedral, named after a famous holy shrine in Mexico, is the best-known church in southern Puerto Rico.

At calles Concordia and Union. 787/842-0134. Free admission. Mon–Fri 6am–12:30pm; Sat–Sun 6am–noon and 3–8pm.

El Museo Castillo Serralles ★ HISTORIC HOME Two miles (3.2km) north of the center of town is the largest and most imposing building in Ponce, constructed high on El Vigía Hill (see below) during the 1930s by the Serrallés family, owners of a local rum distillery. One of the architectural gems of Puerto Rico, it is the best evidence of the wealth produced by the turn-of-the-20th-century sugar boom. Guides will escort you through the Spanish Revival house with Moorish and Andalusian details. Highlights include panoramic courtyards, a baronial dining room, a small cafe and souvenir shop, and a series of photographs showing the tons of earth that were brought in for the construction of the terraced gardens, a beautiful place to sit outside the castle that overlooks the city. You’ll need to take a taxi if you don’t have a car.

El Vigía 17. 787/259-1774. Admission $8.50 adults, $4.25, seniors, children, and students. (Admission includes all attractions on El Vigía Hill.) Tues–Sun 9:30am–6:30pm (last tour 5:30pm).

El Vigía Hill ★★ ICON The city’s tallest geologic feature, El Vigía Hill (300 ft./91m) dominates Ponce’s northern skyline. Its base and steep slopes are covered with a maze of 19th- and early-20th-century development. In addition to the castle, as soon as you reach the summit, you’ll see the soaring Cruz del Vigía (Virgin’s Cross). Built in 1984 of reinforced concrete to replace a 19th-century wooden cross in poor repair, this modern 100-foot (30m) structure bears lateral arms measuring 70 feet (21m) long and an observation tower (accessible by elevator), from which you can see all of the natural beauty surrounding Ponce. The cross commemorates Vigía Hill’s colonial role as a deterrent to contraband smuggling. In 1801, on orders from Spain, a garrison was established atop the hill to detect any ships that might try to unload their cargoes tax-free along Puerto Rico’s southern coastline. Make sure to take a break in the beautifully tranquil Japanese garden, with bonsai plantings and dry areas, and elevated bridges running between ponds and streams; it’s a perfect spot for a break.

At the north end of Ponce.

Museo de Arte de Ponce ★★★ ART MUSEUM The museum is better than ever following a 3-year renovation, which expanded exhibition space and added art preservation studios, a library and classroom, and overhauled a theater, public areas, and courtyards. Heralding a wave of 700 recently acquired works is Roy Lichtenstein’s “Brushstrokes in Flight,” a 28-foot-high painted metal sculpture that has been erected in front of the renovated museum. It’s the Pop Art exponent’s largest public work in the region. The original building, designed by Edward Durell Stone (the creator of the John F. Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts in Washington, D.C.) is still a beauty. Often called the “Parthenon of the Caribbean,” it is home to more than 4,500 works. Lord Frederic Leighton’s “Flaming June” has become a museum icon. Puerto Rico masters Francisco Oller and José Campéche share space with European masters like Gainsborough, Velázquez, and Rubens.

The permanent collection is now arranged by theme, rather than by date and school. Donated to the people of Puerto Rico by the late Luís A. Ferré, the former governor who founded the pro-statehood New Progressive Party, the collection represents the principal schools of American and European art of the past 5 centuries. There are exceptional pre-Raphaelite and Italian baroque paintings, as well as work by other European masters and Puerto Rican and Latin American paintings, graphics, and sculptures.

Av. de Las Américas 23–25. www.museoarteponce.org. 787/848-0505. Follow Calle Concordia from Plaza Las Delicias 1 1/2 miles (2.4km) south to Av. de Las Américas. Admission $6.50 adults, $3.25 seniors, students, and children.

Museum of the History of Ponce (Casa Salazar) MUSEUM Opened in the Casa Salazar in 1992, this museum traces the history of the city from the time of the Taíno peoples to the present. Interactive displays help visitors orient themselves and locate other attractions. The museum has a conservation laboratory, library, souvenir-and-gift shop, cafeteria, and conference facilities.

Casa Salazar ranks close to the top of Ponce’s architectural treasures. Built in 1911, it combines neoclassical and Moorish details, while displaying much that is typical of the Ponce decorative style: stained-glass windows, mosaics, pressed-tin ceilings, fixed jalousies, wood or iron columns, porch balconies, interior patios, and the use of doors as windows.

Calle Isabel 51–53 (at Calle Mayor). 787/844-7071. Free admission. Tues–Sun 8am–4:30pm.

Museum of Puerto Rican Music MUSEUM This museum showcases the development of Puerto Rican music, with displays of Indian, Spanish, and African musical instruments that were played in the romantic danza, the favorite music of 19th-century Puerto Rican society, as well as the more African-inspired bomba and plena styles. Also on view are memorabilia of composers and performers. It is housed in one of the city’s most beautiful private residences designed by Alfredo Wiechers and dating from the turn of the 20th century.

Calle Isabel 50. 787/848-7016. Free admission. Wed–Sun 8:30am–4pm.

Parque de Bombas ★★ ICON Constructed in 1882 as the centerpiece of a 12-day agricultural fair intended to promote the civic charms of Ponce, this building was designated a year later as the island’s first permanent headquarters for a volunteer firefighting brigade. It has an unusual appearance—with Moorish, Gothic, and Victorian influences, an intricate wooden structure painted black, red, green, and yellow. A tourist-information kiosk is situated inside the building (see “Visitor Information,” above).

Plaza Las Delicias. 787/284-3338. Free admission. Daily 9:30am–6pm.

Teatro la Perla THEATER This theater, built in the neoclassical style in 1864, remains one of the most visible symbols of the economic prosperity of Ponce during the mid–19th century. Designed by Juan Bertoli, an Italian-born resident of Puerto Rico who studied in Europe, it was destroyed by an earthquake in 1918, and rebuilt in 1940 according to the original plans; it reopened to the public in 1941. It is noted for acoustics so clear that microphones are unnecessary. The theater is the largest and most historic in the Spanish-speaking Caribbean. Everything from plays to concerts to beauty pageants takes place here.

At calles Mayor and Christina. 787/843-4322. Prices and hours vary.

Nearby Attractions

Hacienda Buena Vista ★ HISTORIC SITE Built in 1833, this hacienda preserves an old way of life, with its whirring water wheels and artifacts of 19th-century farm production. Once it was one of the most successful plantations on Puerto Rico, producing coffee, corn, and citrus. It was a working coffee plantation until the 1950s, and 86 of the original 500 acres (35 of 202 hectares) are still part of the estate. The rooms of the hacienda have been furnished with authentic pieces from the 1850s. Hacienda Buena Vista is located in Barrio Magüeyes along the rural mountain road to Adjuntas. You can also tour the shade-grown coffee plantation, sprinkled with fruit and wood trees, which is carved from lush tropical forest along the Canas River. There is also a longer, 4-hour guided tour. From Av. de Las Américas, go west until Rte. 500, which you will take to Rte. 123 (Calle La Poncena), and turn left. At km 16.8 you will find the Hacienda.

Rte. 123, Barrio Magüeyes Km 16.8. 787/722-5882 (weekdays), 284-7020 (weekends). Tours $7 adults (4-hour tour is $10), $5 children and seniors. Reservations required. 2-hr. tours Wed–Sun at 8:30am, 10:30am, 1:30pm, and 3:30pm (in English only at 1:30pm). A 30-min. drive north of Ponce, in the small town of Barrio Magüeyes, btw. Ponce and Adjuntas.

Tibes Indian Ceremonial Center ★ RUINS Bordered by the Río Portuguéz and excavated in 1975, this is the oldest cemetery in the Antilles. It contains some 186 skeletons, dating from a.d. 300, as well as pre-Taíno plazas from a.d. 700. The site also includes a re-created Taíno village, seven rectangular ball courts, and two dance grounds. The arrangement of stone points on the dance grounds, in line with the solstices and equinoxes, suggests a pre-Columbian Stonehenge. Here, you’ll also find a museum, an exhibition hall that presents a documentary about Tibes, a cafeteria, and a souvenir shop. Go east along Av. de Las Américas until Av. De Hostos, which turns immediately into Calle Salud. Take a left at Calle Trioche and a right at Calle Mayor Cantera, which leads into the Carretera Tibes. Go right on Rte. 503, then bear left to stay on the road.

Rte. 503, Tibes, at Km 2.2. 787/840-2255. Admission $3 adults, $2 children, $1.50 seniors. Guided tours in English and Spanish are conducted through the grounds. Tues–Sun 8am–4:20pm. 2 miles (3.2km) north of Ponce.

Take a Break

Stop for an ice cream or drink at King’s Ice Cream ( 787/843-8520), right across the street from the Parque de Bombas on the city’s main square, open from 9am to 11pm. This institution has been scooping up delicious ice cream for decades. The almond is wonderful, as are tropical fruit flavors parcha or tamarind. It’s closer to Italian gelato than U.S. ice cream. Another option is a drink or sandwich at the Café Tomas/Café Tompy, Calle Isabel at Calle Mayor ( 787/840-1965). Divided into less formal and more formal sections, it is open daily from 7am to midnight. For more information, see “Where to Eat,” below.

Beaches & Outdoor Activities

Ponce is a city—not a beach resort—and should be visited mainly for its sights. There are no beaches within the city, but an offshore cay ringed with white sand and aquamarine waters filled with marine life is just a ferry ride away.

About 30 minutes to the west, however, are some of Puerto Rico’s best beaches. They ring the coast from Guánica through Cabo Rojo.

Because the northern shore of Puerto Rico fronts the often-turbulent Atlantic, many snorkelers prefer the more tranquil southern coast, especially the waters off the coast of La Parguera. Throughout the southwest coast, water lovers can go snorkeling right off the beach, and it isn’t necessary to take a boat trip. Waters here are not polluted, and visibility is usually good, unless there are heavy winds and choppy seas.

La Guancha is a sprawling boardwalk around Ponce’s bayside harbor area near the Ponce Hilton. Several eateries are located here, and it is the scene of free concerts and other events at night. There’s no beach, but during weekend afternoons children and their families come here to fly kites or ride bicycles. Hundreds of yachts and pleasure craft tie up here, which is also home to the Ponce Yacht Club. La Guancha is a relatively wholesome version of Coney Island, with a strong Hispanic accent and vague hints of New England. On hot weekends, the place is mobbed with families who listen to merengue and salsa. Lining the boardwalk are small establishments selling beer, party drinks, fried beach snacks, and souvenirs. There is also a lookout tower here, which is worth a climb.

A ferry runs from La Guancha to Caja de Muertos, or Coffin Island, an uninhabited cay that’s covered with mangrove swamps and ringed with worthwhile beaches. It’s some of the best snorkeling in the southwest. A 125-passenger ferry run by Island Venture ( 787/842-8546 or 866-7827) provides transportation on weekends and holidays to and from the island. It leaves at 8:30am and returns at 3:30pm. Roundtrip fare is $19 for adults and $14 for children. The outfit also runs scuba and snorkeling expeditions, which includes food and drinks, to the island and surrounding reefs. Prices are $35 per person for snorkeling and $65 for scuba.

Other private outfits will take passengers to the island, with some providing snorkeling equipment and even lunch to guests. There are hiking trails, gazebos, and basic bathrooms, but no running water. The island has an old lighthouse and a nice beach.

The city owns two tennis complexes, one at Poly Deportivos, with nine hard courts, and another at Rambla, with six courts. Both are open from 9am to 10pm daily and are lighted for night play. You can play for free, but you must call to make a reservation. For information, including directions on how to get there, call the city Sports and Recreation Department at 787/840-4400. You can also find tennis facilities at the two following country clubs, which also offer golf.

One of the south coast’s finest and newest courses is the Costa Caribe Golf & Country Club ★ ( 787/848-1000 or 812-2650), on the site of the Hilton Ponce & Casino (see below). This 27-hole course charges from $89 ($79 for guests) to play 18 holes. The beautifully landscaped holes—with commanding views of the ocean and mountain—are laid out in former sugar-cane fields. The no. 12 hole, one of the most dramatic, calls for a 188-yard carry over water from the back tees. Trade winds add to the challenge. The three 9’s can be played in 18-hole combinations, as conceived by golf architect Bruce Besse. The greens are undulating and moderate in speed, averaging 6,000 square feet (557 sq. m). Golf carts are included in the greens fees, and both gas and electric carts are available.

Another course, Club Deportivo del Oeste, Hwy. 102, Km 15.4, Barrio Joyuda, Cabo Rojo ( 787/851-8880 or 787/254-3748), lies 30 miles (48km) west of Ponce. This course is an 18-holer, open daily from 7am to 5pm. Greens fees are $32 Monday through Thursday, $43 Friday through Sunday, and include a golf cart.

Shopping

If you feel a yen for shopping in Ponce, there are many shops in the renovated downtown area that have local arts and crafts. The Atochoa Pedestrian Mall runs along Calle Cristina just off the city’s central Plaza Las Delicias. It’s been one of Ponce’s main shopping areas for decades. There’s not a whole lot here, but it’s fun to walk around, and the shops and offerings are a throwback to a simpler time.

For artisans’ work, try El Palacio del Coquí Inc., Calle Marina 9227 ( 787/812-0216), whose name means “palace of the tree frog.” This is the place to buy the colorful vejigantes masks (viewed as collectors’ items) that are used at carnival time. Ask the owner to explain the significance of these masks.

Utopía, Calle Isabel 78 ( 787/848-8742), conveniently located in Plaza Las Delicias, has the most imaginative and interesting selection of gift items and handicrafts in Ponce. Prominently displayed are vejigantes, brightly painted carnival masks inspired by carnival rituals and crafted from papier-mâché. In Ponce, where many of these masks are made, they sell at bargain prices of between $20 and $500, depending on their size. Other items include cigars, pottery, clothing, and jewelry; gifts imported from Indonesia, the Philippines, and Mexico; and rums from throughout the Caribbean. Julio and Carmen Aguilar are the helpful and enthusiastic owners, who hail from Ecuador and Puerto Rico, respectively.

The big mall in town is Plaza del Caribe, Hwy. 2 ( 787/848-5566 or 848-1229), located right off Exit 104-B from the Luis A. Ferre Expressway (Hwy. 52). A smaller version of Plaza Las Américas, there are still 140 stores, many of them similar to the San Juan mall, in more than 7,000 square feet (650 sq-meters) of shopping space. If you are looking for it, you can find it here. Plus there are lots of good places to eat.

Where to Eat

Expensive

La Cava ★ INTERNATIONAL Smart modern decor combines with classic continental fare to deliver one of this southern city’s best dining experiences. Start out with lobster soufflé in creamy fontina cheese fondue, or the fresh blue point oysters in a cocktail sauce, and move on to the cashew-crusted sea bass, a sumptuous pork loin, or the grilled rib-eye steak with gorgonzola butter, fire roasted peppers, and polenta wedge. Whatever you eat, save room for the pumpkin soufflé. If you need a good meal in Ponce, you are guaranteed one here.

In the Ponce Hilton, Av. Caribe 1150. 787/813-5050. Reservations recommended. Main courses $22–$32. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 6:30–10:30pm.

Lola Eclectic Cuisine ★★ CARIBBEAN This gem in the heart of historic Ponce has a funky but chic dining room with high ceilings and a flowery Spanish colonial courtyard. Live Latin jazz and Spanish pop is sometimes performed outside, while world-beat music tinkles through the bar and interior dining area, with bright but stylish decor bathed in a 1930s bohemian sensibility. The grilled cowboy rib-eye is the best steak, and the sautéed halibut in a lemony green sauce is the best fish in downtown Ponce. A lot of the dishes mesh classic Latino and Caribbean fare to other world cuisines, like Cuban stewed beef and fried sweet plantain egg rolls, and fried mahimahi bocadillos with a coconut, lime, and cilantro sauce. There is other delicious stuff (like shrimp Lola, in a creamy garlic sauce with vegetable risotto) and classic Puerto Rican mofongo (stuffed with shrimp, chicken, or steak) and fried whole red snapper.

Esq. Calle Reina y Calle Union, Ponce. 787/813-5050. Reservations recommended. Main courses $16–$29. AE, MC, DISC, V. Sun–Mon 11:30am–9pm, Tues–Wed 11:30am–10pm, Thurs–Sat 11am–11:30pm.

Pito’s Seafood Café & Restaurant ★ SEAFOOD This is the best of the string of seafood restaurants along the undeveloped waterfront west of the city center. The building has a handsome wooden structure on the water, with three different dining levels with open-air views of the sea. There is a large and fine wine selection, with 25 bottles available by the glass, and a cigar menu available at a separate smoking bar. The spot offers the freshest seafood prepared with the finest island and Spanish recipes. A really great spot to experience the best Puerto Rican seafood meal of your vacation. It’s a great place to try grilled Caribbean lobster, which is lighter than its Maine cousin. I’ve also tried the Ponce-style conch salad and mahimahi in mango curry coconut sauce. The halibut filet sautéed with pesto and shrimp is as tasty as it sounds, but everything looks great. If it’s anything like mine have been, your meal will be as perfect as the view.

Hwy. 2, Las Cucharas, Ponce. 787/841-4977. Reservations recommended. Main courses $12–$35. AE, MC, DISC, V. Sun–Thurs 11am–10pm, Fri–Sat 11am–midnight.

Moderate

La Montserrate PUERTO RICAN/SEAFOOD This is one of a string of seaside restaurants specializing in Puerto Rican cuisine and seafood lined along the beautiful coastline about 4 miles (6.4km) west of the town center. This restaurant draws a loyal following, and has a large dining room overlooking the waterfront. Specialties, concocted from the catch of the day, might include octopus salad, several different kinds of asopao, a whole red snapper in Creole sauce, or a selection of steaks and grills. They also offer vegetarian dishes like the vegetables mofongo in a criollo sauce. Nothing is innovative, but the cuisine is typical of the south of Puerto Rico, and it’s a family favorite. The fish dishes are better than the meat selections.

Sector Las Cucharas, Rte. 2, Km 218.2. 787/841-2740. Main courses $13–35. AE, MC, V. Daily 11am–10pm.

La Terraza INTERNATIONAL This big and sunny restaurant has a dramatic view. Two-story walls of windows sweep the eye out over the greenery of the hotel’s garden. At nighttime, there is a different themed special and a sprawling soup-and-salad bar (access to which is included in the price of any main course). On the standard menu, there’s a pepper-covered pan-seared sirloin steak, and a plantain-crusted grouper filet with garlic sauce. The restaurant also serves breakfast buffets and weekend brunch buffets.

In the Ponce Hilton, Av. Caribe 1150. 787/259-7676. Dinner main courses $24–$26, breakfast buffet $19, brunch buffet $22. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 6:30am–10:30pm.

Inexpensive

Café Tomas/Café Tompy PUERTO RICAN The more visible and busier section of this establishment functions as a simple cafe for neighbors and local merchants. At plastic tables often flooded with sunlight from the big windows you can order coffee, sandwiches, or cold beer, perhaps while relaxing after a walking tour of the city. The family-run restaurant in back is more formal. Here, amid a decor reminiscent of a Spanish tasca (tapas bar), you can enjoy such simply prepared dishes as beefsteak with onions, asopao de pollo, buttered eggs, octopus salads, and yucca and Spanish ham croquettes.

Calle Isabel 56, at Calle Mayor. 787/840-1965. Café Tompy: breakfast $2.50–$6, main courses lunch and dinner $5–$10. Café Tomas: main courses $10–$30 AE, MC, V. Daily 6am–11pm.

Where to Stay

Expensive

Hilton Ponce Golf & Casino ★★ On a 30-hectare (74-acre) tract of land right on the coast, this is the best, full-service hotel in southern Puerto Rico. A 10-minute drive from downtown, near the La Guancha waterfront district, the hotel has a 27-hole golf course, sprawling pool area, lush grounds, and spacious rooms, done up in attractive tropical style with great amenities and furnishings. Even basic rooms have private balconies and roomy, gleaming bathrooms. There’s a playground and pool for the kids, great fitness and health club, a busy casino, and lively lobby area. The resort has a top-rate business center and other services for business travelers. The hotel restaurants are among the city’s finest. The Player’s Lounge outside the casino has live music on weekends. There are often weekend live concerts and other events at the nearby La Guancha.

Av. Caribe 1150 (P.O. Box 7419), Ponce, PR 00716. www.hilton.com. 800/445-8667 or 787/259-7676. Fax 787/259-7674. 153 units. $199–$239 double; $449–$699 suite. 12% resort fee. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $15; self-parking $8. Amenities: 2 restaurants; 2 bars; bikes; casino; children’s program; fitness center; 27-hole golf course; playground; lagoon-shaped pool ringed w/gardens; room service; 2 tennis courts; rooms for those w/limited mobility. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar..

Moderate

Holiday Inn Ponce The hotel is set on a hill overlooking the coast right near a string of popular coastal seafood restaurants. There is a great view from the hotel rooms, but the place is outside the downtown area and is not close to a bathing beach. The Tropical Casino is open 24/7 and has 346 machines and 10 tables. Kids can hang out in the game room or the pool. You are better off staying downtown if you want culture, and head to Guanica or Cabo Rojo if you want to hit the beach.

3315 Ponce By Pass, Exit 221, El Tuque, Ponce, PR 00715. www.holidayinn.com. 800/465-4329 or 787/844-1200. 116 units. $149–$159 double includes breakfast. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant; bar with live music, gym; pool; room service; whirlpool; Wi-Fi. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer.

Howard Johnson Ponce This hotel, a 15-minute drive east of Ponce, has nice bedrooms that are comfortable and decked out with contemporary furnishings. Each unit has a small tiled bathroom with tub/shower combination. The prices appeal to families. Unless you have kids, who will enjoy the pool, you are probably better off staying in town.

Turpo Industrial Park 103, Mercedita, Ponce, PR 00715. www.hojo.com. 787/841-1000. 120 units. $115 double; $165 suite. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Free parking. East of Ponce on Hwy. 52, opposite the Interamerican University. Amenities: Restaurant; bar/disco; gym; pool; children’s wading pool, room service; whirlpool; Wi-Fi; rooms for those w/limited mobility. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer.

Meliá A city hotel with southern hospitality, the Meliá, which has no connection with the international hotel chain, attracts businesspeople and visitors who want to explore the city’s historic offerings. The location is a few steps away from the Cathedral of Our Lady of Guadalupe and from the Parque de Bombas (the red-and-black firehouse). Although the more expensive Hilton long ago outclassed this old and somewhat tattered hotel, many people who can afford more upscale accommodations still prefer to stay here for its old-time atmosphere. The lobby floor and all stairs are covered with Spanish tiles of Moorish design. The desk clerks speak English. The small rooms are comfortably furnished and pleasant enough, and most have a balcony facing either busy Calle Cristina or the old plaza. Bathrooms are tiny, each with a shower stall. Breakfast is served on a rooftop terrace with a good view of Ponce. You can park your car in the lot nearby.

Calle Cristina 2, Ponce, PR 00731. www.hotelmeliapr.com. 787/813-5050. Fax 787/841-3602. 73 units (shower only). $100–$140 double. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, MC, V. Parking $3. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; outdoor pool; room service; rooms for those w/limited mobility. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, high-speed Internet.

Ramada Ponce Located right off the gorgeous Plaza Las Delicias, the main square of the restored historic district, this is an attractive, well-kept property in an excellent location. It can be noisy on weekend nights, and in rooms by the ice machine; and the bathrooms, as well as the linens and other amenities and extras, could use updating. If you want to spend time in historic Ponce, however, this is still a great option. The onsite restaurant, Lola Eclectic Cuisine, is excellent, but the pool is small and lounging options beside it limited. Of the 70 units, there are six historic rooms with 1882 architecture, which bring the beauty of the city to your bedside.

Calle Riena, Ponce, PR 00731. www.ramadaponce.com. 787-813-5050. 70 units. $99–$129 double; $135–$150 suite. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Free parking. East of Ponce on Hwy. 52, opposite the Interamerican University. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; fitness center; outdoor pool; room service; Wi-Fi in public areas; rooms for those w/limited mobility. In room: A/C, TV, Internet.

The Southwest Coast

The southwest corner of the island is where the locals go to kick back and chill out. The area is a favored vacation spot for San Juan and Ponce residents, as well as a weekend getaway destination. In fact, for many travelers the area will be too crowded during Easter week and the month of July, the height of the Puerto Rico tourism season. Here are some of Puerto Rico’s great beaches, notably Guánica and Boquerón Beach ★★, and a lot of mom-and-pop operations that offer nightly rentals and good seafood dinners.

Southern Puerto Rico is increasingly gaining a reputation among scuba divers, although the outfitters are a bit lean here and not as well organized or plentiful as in the Cayman Islands. The attraction is the continental shelf that drops off a few miles off the southern coast. Within this watery range is a towering wall that is some 20 miles (32km) long and filled with one of the best assortments of marine life in the West Indies. Diving is possible from the town of La Parguera in the west all the way to Ponce in the east. The wall drops from 60 to 120 feet (18–37m) before it “vanishes” into 1,500 feet (457m) of sea. With a visibility of around 100 feet (30m), divers experience the beautiful formations of some of Puerto Rico’s most dramatic coral gardens.

Bird-watchers should head to the Guánica State Forest, which is the sanctuary that has the greatest number of birds on the island. For beachcombers, there are many hidden places, such as Gilligan’s Island off the coast of the little village of Guánica. For snorkelers, there are miles of coral reefs, awash with tropical fish, coral, and marine life. The Cabo Rojo Lighthouse, south of Boquerón, offers views of the rocky coastline and a panoramic sweep of the Caribbean.

Guánica

Guánica, on the Caribbean Sea, lies 73 miles (118km) southwest of San Juan and 21 miles (34km) west of the city of Ponce. The Guánica Dry Forest and adjacent area is a UNESCO-designated world biosphere reserve. The rare bonsailike forest is home to more than 100 species of migratory and resident birds, the largest number in Puerto Rico. The beach at Guánica is pristine, and the crystal-clear water is ideal for swimming, snorkeling, and diving. Directly offshore is the famed Gilligan’s Island, plus six of Puerto Rico’s best sites for night or day dives. The area was once known for its leaping bullfrogs. The Spanish conquerors virtually wiped out this species. But the bullfrogs have come back and live in the rolling, scrub-covered hills that surround the 18-acre (7.3-hectare) site of the Copamarina Beach Resort, the area’s major hotel (see below.)

Guánica is adjacent to the unique Dry Forest and experiences very little rainfall. Nearby mountains get an annual rainfall of 15 feet (4.6m), but Guánica receives only about 15 inches (38 cm). This is the world’s largest dry coastal forest region. The upper hills are ideal for hiking. Guánica was once the haunt of the Taíno Indians, and it was the place where Ponce de León first explored Puerto Rico in 1508. One of his descendants later founded the nearby city of Ponce in 1692.

It is also the site of the landing of the Americans in 1898 during the Spanish-American war that began Puerto Rico’s century-long relationship with the United States. You reach the harbor by taking the main exit to Guánica from Rte. 116 to Calle 25 de Julio. A large rock monument on the town’s malecón, or harbor, commemorates the landing. The Williams family, descendants of a doctor who arrived with the troops and settled here after marrying a local girl, still live in one of the historic wooden homes along the waterfront. The area has lots of seafood restaurants and bars, as well as snack vendors along a bayside promenade. It is festive on weekend evenings.

Hiking & Bird-Watching in Guanica State Forest ★★

Heading directly west from Ponce, along Rte. 2, you reach Guánica State Forest ★ ( 787/821-5706), a setting that evokes Arizona or New Mexico. Here you will find the best-preserved subtropical ecosystem on the planet. UNESCO has named Guánica a World Biosphere Reserve. Some 750 plants and tree species grow in the area.

The Cordillera Central cuts off the rain coming in from the heavily showered northeast, making this a dry region of cacti and bedrock, a perfect film location for old-fashioned western movies. It’s also ideal country for birders. Some 50% of all of the island’s terrestrial bird species can be seen in this dry and dusty forest. You might even spot the Puerto Rican emerald-breasted hummingbird. A number of migratory birds often stop here. The most serious ornithologists seek out the Puerto Rican nightjar, a local bird that was believed to be extinct. Now it’s estimated that there are nearly a thousand of them.

To reach the forest, take Rte. 334 northeast of Guánica, to the heart of the forest. There’s a ranger station here that will give you information about hiking trails. The booklet provided by the ranger station outlines 36 miles (58km) of trails through the four forest types. The most interesting is the mile-long (1.6km) Cueva Trail, which gives you the most scenic look at the various types of vegetation. You might even encounter the endangered bufo lemur toad, once declared extinct but found, thankfully, still jumping in this area.

Scuba Diving, Snorkeling & Other Outdoor Pursuits

The best dive operation in Guánica is Island Scuba ( 787/309-6556), which provides direct service to the Copamarina Beach Resort. The company’s Delta 38 sportfish power boat will pick up guests from the resort’s long pier, where fishing is permitted. A two-tank dive costs $110, plus $20 for full diving equipment. The outfit is the closest to the spectacular diving sites around The Wall, a 22-mile-long formation, marked by canyons and crevices, at the edge of the continental shelf. The area is filled with coral and schools of tropical fish. The underwater wonderland lies 2 miles offshore.

At one of the local beaches, Playa Santa, west of town, Pino’s Boat & Water Fun ( 787/821-6864 or 484-8083) will rent you a paddleboat or kayak at prices ranging from $15 to $25 hourly. A banana-boat ride costs $8 per person, while water scooters cost $55 for a half-hour.

One of the most visited sites is Gilligan’s Island, a series of mangrove and sand cays near the Caña Gorda peninsula. Part of the dry forest reserve, it is set aside for recreational use. A small ferry departs from in front of Restaurant San Jacinto, just past Copamarina Beach Resort, every hour daily from 10am to 5pm, weather permitting; round-trips cost $7. Ballena Beach is farther down Rte. 333, in the coastal border of the Dry Forest. This is a beautiful beach, with huge palm trees and golden sand. During winter storms, surfers flock here for rare, tubular waves.

Where to Eat

Alexandra ★ INTERNATIONAL This is a genuinely excellent restaurant with a young kitchen team turning out delectable dishes that include freshly caught seafood. One of the favorite dishes is the seafood paella. The grilled fresh lobster and the lobster tail in Thermidor sauce are must-haves. The grilled filet mignon in port wine and porcini mushroom sauce is served with local root-vegetables puree. The interior is air-conditioned but tropical in its feel, providing a welcome dose of relaxed glamour.

In the Copamarina Beach Resort, Rte. 333, Km 6.5, Caña Gorda (P.O. Box 805), Guánica. 787/821-0505. Reservations recommended. Main courses $19–$40. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 6–10:30pm; Fri–Sat 6–11pm.

The Blue Marlin ★ SEAFOOD The most established restaurant on Guánica’s famous harbor, this is still the best place for local seafood. Housed in a rambling plantation-style structure overlooking the pretty bay, there is a large but relaxed quiet dining area, with some tables on balconies overlooking the harbor, serving excellent local meals, with an accent on freshly caught seafood. We love everything from the Caribbean lobster ceviche salad to the mofongo stuffed with mixed seafood (conch, octopus, shrimp, and red snapper) in a light tomato sauce. But culinary landlubbers can find satisfaction here with the budget-priced comida criolla. Even the pork chops are tasty. There’s an adjacent bar area with a jukebox playing all sorts of local hits—from reggaeton to classic salsa—and televisions tuned to sports or music videos. The long rectangular bar not only overlooks the harborside drive, but also one of its sides is actually on the street. Tasty snacks, such as seafood turnovers and fried fish fritters, are available, as well as more substantial menu items. There’s even a more informal outdoor terrace area with cafeteria-style booths perfect for families who want a quick snack after the beach and billiards.

55 Calle Esperanza Idrach, malecón (waterfront), Guánica (at the end of Calle 25 de Julío), Guánica. 787/821-5858. Reservations recommended. Main courses $9.50–$23. MC, V. Tues–Thurs 4–9pm, Fri–Sat 5pm–1am, Sun 1–10pm.

Bodegas Andreu Solé ★★ WINERY/TAPAS If you think Puerto Rican wine sounds like a joke, you won’t after visiting this restored plantation home on Ensenada Bay: a bodega on the grounds of what was once the largest sugar mill in the Caribbean, serving homegrown wine using tempranillo, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and other grapes, and with an excellent Spanish tapas menu. There is excellent live music on Friday and Saturday nights,from jazz to Spanish ballads to Puerto Rican folk music. On Sunday, they are open from 2 to 6pm; with a visit to the bodega vineyard. There is a bar and dining room inside, but most visitors stick to the tables outside overlooking the bay. Diners can request the excellent house paella in seafood, meat, or vegetable varieties when making reservations. Normally there is no admission, except for special functions featuring well-known acts, but, even then, admission prices generally hover around $10. The house wines are grown from a vineyard in town and elaborated on premises. I can vouch for the smoothness of the house red, which at $25 a bottle is also a bargain. A wide-variety of boutique wines and handcrafted liquors, like coffee, passion fruit, mandarin, and mango, are also available here. You can just stop in if you want to try the local wine, hear some music, and nibble on tapas, but reservations are required if you want a full meal.

Rte. 3116, Km 2.5, Av. Los Veteranos, Ensenada, 00647. 787/951-9622. MC, V. Tapas $5–$10. Fri–Sat 7pm–1am, Sun 2–6pm.

Jibarito en Playa SEAFOOD/PUERTO RICAN This new restaurant is located in front of the bay at the eastern end of the town’s harbor. On weekend nights, locals twist to live music or sing karaoke over cold beer and seafood empanadillas. A second floor bar has a killer view of the bay, dance hall, and pool tables. There are new fresh fish specials every day, and standard favorites like the mixed seafood salad, with conch, octopus, shrimp, and lobster in a lime vinaigrette topped with tomatoes, cheese, and croutons.

Ave. Esperanza Idrach, in front of the malecón (waterfront), Guanica. 787/674-8892. Main courses $7.50–$25. MC, V. Wed–Sun 11am–9pm.

The Palmas Café BEACH CAFE/PUERTO RICAN The poolside cafe is a great spot for drinks or a light lunch in front of the gorgeous coast and pool area, surrounded by the resort’s low-slung Caribbean architecture, and wildly blooming flowers and towering palms. Despite the casual setting, you can get seriously creative cuisine in addition to standard breakfast and lunch items, including mofongo stuffed with grouper in garlic and lemon sauce, chicken cracklings with spicy aioli and fried plantain, or breaded shrimp in guava sauce served with fried sweet potato.

In the Copamarina Beach Resort, Rte. 333, Km 6.5, Caña Gorda (P.O. Box 805), Guánica. 787/821-0505. Main courses $12–$20. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 7am–9:30pm.

Where to Stay

Copamarina Beach Resort ★★ The Copamarina spreads out along a landscaped palm grove with gentle waters and offshore cays, a large pool, and shady grounds. The attractively decorated units have tile floors, lots of exposed wood, and louvered doors with screens that open onto large verandas or terraces. Everything is airy and comfortable. Bathrooms are large and up-to-date. The Bodyderm Spa specializes in massage and body treatments with relaxation techniques and healing touches for the body, mind, and spirit. Spa appointments are available from 9am to 6pm. The fine-dining restaurant, Alexandra, serves great food, and it’s less formal than most San Juan restaurants of similar quality, and staffed by a hardworking crowd of young people. The array of watersports and sports activities is incredible, and tours can be gotten to anywhere on the island, including next door at the Guánica Dry Forest Reserve. The hotel also offers guests all-inclusive options. Rent a car and try some of the local restaurants in Guánica and other coastal villages you will visit while staying here, and visit beaches throughout the area.

Rte. 333, Km 6.5, Caña Gorda (P.O. Box 805), Guánica, PR 00653. www.copamarina.com. 888/881-6233 or 787/821-0505. Fax 787/821-0070. 106 units. High season $235–$295 double; low season $190–$250 double; year-round $350–$400 suite, $850–$1,000 villa. 10% resort fee. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. From Ponce, drive west along Rte. 2 to Rte. 116 and go south to Rte. 333, then head east. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; babysitting; health club; 2 outdoor pools; room service; spa; tennis courts; rooms for those w/limited mobility. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, fridge, hair dryer.

Mary Lee’s by the Sea ★ Owned and operated by Michigan-born Mary Lee Alvarez, a former resident of Cuba and a self-described “compulsive decorator,” this is an informal collection of cottages, seafront houses, and apartments, located 4 miles (6.4km) east of Guánica. Five California-style houses are subdivided into eight living units, each suitable for one to three couples. Rooms are whimsically decorated in an airy, somewhat bohemian way, with a sense of 1960s comfort and a sometimes-soothing sense of clutter. Each unit has a small, tiled bathroom with a tub. The entire compound, which grew in an artfully erratic way, is landscaped with flowering shrubs, trees, and vines. Overall, the ambience is kind and low-key.

There aren’t any formally organized activities here, but the hotel sits next to sandy beaches and a handful of uninhabited offshore cays. The management maintains rental boats with motors, two waterside sun decks, and several kayaks for the benefit of active guests. Hikers and bird-watchers can go north to the Guánica State Forest.

Don’t come here looking for nighttime activities or enforced conviviality. The place is quiet, secluded, and appropriate for low-key vacationers looking for privacy. There isn’t a bar or restaurant here, but each unit has a modern kitchen and an outdoor barbecue. The rooms are serviced weekly, although guests can arrange daily maid service for an extra fee.

Rte. 333, Km 6.7 (P.O. Box 394), Guánica, PR 00653. www.maryleesbythesea.com. 787/821-3600. Fax 787/821-0744. 11 units. $110–$130 double; $140–$150 studio and 1-bedroom apt; $180–$225 2-bedroom apt; $300 3-bedroom house. MC, V. From Ponce, take Rte. 2. When you reach Rte. 116, head south toward Guánica. The hotel is signposted from the road. Amenities: Laundry service, barbeque. In room: A/C, kitchen, no phone.

Parador Guánica 1929 This charming property lies on one of the island’s prettiest roads, enveloped by a canopy of trees as it winds along Ensenada Bay and a line of plantation homes atop a hill overlooking it. Guánica’s Ensenada sector was once the site of one of the largest sugar mills in the Caribbean, but it’s been a bit of a ghost town since it shut down in the 1980s. Shadows of its former opulence can be glimpsed in the sun-baked decaying structures throughout the area, as well as the few restored buildings, such as this immaculate hotel. A classic Spanish-style plantation home, with a wide, wraparound veranda on each of its two levels, its rooms have subdued tropical decor and are comfortable and well equipped. Breakfast is served on the downstairs side veranda overlooking the large pool area, with sun chairs on its surrounding deck. The food at the on-site restaurant is only okay. Prices at area restaurants are extremely competitive.

Rte. 3116, Km 2.5, Av. Los Veteranos, Ensenada, Guánica 00767. www.tropicalinnspr.com. 787/821-0099 or 787/893-4423. Fax 787/841-3602. 21 units. $102 double. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, MC, DISC, V. Amenities: Pool; gym; playground w/basketball court; Wi-Fi in common areas. In room: A/C, satellite TV, hair dryer, high-speed Internet, kitchen.

Puerto Rico’s Secret beaches

Some of Puerto Rico’s most beautiful and isolated beaches lie on the island’s southwestern coast, on the Caribbean Sea, far from major highways. Stretching between Ponce in the east and Cabo Rojo on Puerto Rico’s extreme southwestern tip, these beaches flank some of the least densely populated parts of the island. And because the boundaries between them are relatively fluid, only a local resident (or perhaps a professional geographer) could say for sure where one ends and the other begins.

If you consider yourself an aficionado of isolated beaches, it’s worth renting a car and striking out for these remote locales. Drive westward from Ponce along Hwy. 2, branching south along Rte. 116 to Guánica, the self-anointed gateway and capital of this string of “secret beaches.”

By far the most accessible and appealing beach is Caña Gorda ★. Set about a quarter mile (.4km) south of Guánica, at the edge of a legally protected marsh that’s known for its rich bird life and thick reeds, Caña Gorda is a sprawling expanse of pale beige sand that’s dotted with picnic areas and a beach refreshment stand/bar, showers, bathrooms, and other facilities. Just beyond the public beach is the well-recommended Copamarina Beach Resort ( 787/821-0505). You can check in for a night or two of sun-flooded R&R. Even if you’re not staying at the hotel, consider dropping in for a Cuba Libre, a margarita, or a meal.

Farther along is Ballena Beach, which stretches for a mile or more along a deserted beachfront, protected by rocky bluffs and a grove of towering palm trees. There are several other smaller beaches as Rte. 333 cuts farther into the dry forest and ends at an undeveloped parking area, adjacent to a foundation built right on the coast, with the sandy Tamarindo Beach beyond it. Hills surround the area, covered by the dwarfed pines at the outskirts of the reserve.

Another beautiful beach in town is Playa Santa, which also lies off Rte. 116 (the exit to Rte. 325 is signposted). The white-sand beach has incredibly tranquil salty water, and there is a string of eateries serving snacks and cold drinks around a harbor beside it. La Jungla and Manglillo are two other beautiful, undeveloped beaches bordering here, with great snorkeling because of coral reefs just offshore and interesting mangrove canals. The road to Playa Santa first cuts through a section of undeveloped dry forest before ending at the beach town. An unmarked dirt road on the left-hand side leads to another breathtakingly beautiful sand beach.

In the very southwest sector of Puerto Rico are some relatively hidden and very secluded beaches, although getting to them is a bit difficult along some potholed roads. Head west on Rte. 101, cutting south at the junction with Rte. 301, which will carry you to one of the most westerly beaches in Puerto Rico, Playa Sucia. The beach opens onto Bahia Sucia ★, whose name rather unappetizingly translates as “Dirty Bay.” Actually it isn’t dirty; it’s a lovely spot. Hikers willing to walk a while will also be rewarded for their efforts from the Boquerón public beach and over the bluffs bordering it.

All these beaches might be hard to reach, but persevere and you’ll be met with warm water and long, uncrowded stretches of sand, where towering king palms and salt-tolerant sea grapes provide an idyllic tropical backdrop for sun and surf. Keep in mind that most of the beaches mentioned here have virtually no services or public utilities. Pack what you’ll need for the day—food, water, sunscreen, and so forth.

La Parguera ★

This charming fishing village lies 78 miles (126km) southwest of San Juan and 26 miles (42km) west of Ponce, just south of San Germán. From San Germán, take Rte. 320 directly south and follow the signposts. Note that this route changes its name several times along the way, becoming Rte. 101, 116, 315, 305, and then 304 before reaching La Parguera—even though it’s all the same highway.

The name of the village comes from pargos, meaning snapper. Its main attraction, other than its beaches and diving, is Phosphorescent Bay, which contains millions of luminescent dinoflagellates (microscopic plankton). A disturbance causes them to light up the dark waters. For dramatic effect, they are best seen on a moonless night. Boats leave for a troll around the bay nightly from 7:30pm to 12:30am from La Parguera pier, depending on demand. The trip costs $7.50 per person.

Offshore are some 12 to 15 reefs with a variety of depths. The Beril reef goes down to 60 feet (18m), then drops to 2,000 feet (610m). This wall is famous among divers, and visibility ranges from 100 to 120 feet (30–37m). These reefs also provide some of the best snorkeling possibilities in Puerto Rico. Marine life is both abundant and diverse, including big morays, sea turtles, barracudas, nurse sharks, and manatees. Paradise Scuba & Snorkeling Center, Hotel Casa Blanca Building, at La Parguera ( 787/899-7611), offers the best diving and snorkeling. A two-tank dive costs $100; a 3-hour snorkeling jaunt goes for $40 per person, with equipment included. Lessons and a variety of trips like the 2 hour Bio-Bay trip for $30 (including snacks and beverages) are available.

Where to Stay

Parador Villa Parguera ★ Although the water in the nearby bay is too muddy for swimming, guests can enjoy a view of the harbor and take a dip in the swimming pool. Situated on the southwestern shore of Puerto Rico, this parador is favored by sanjuaneros for weekend escapes. It’s also known for its seafood dinners (the fish are not caught in the bay), comfortable and uncomplicated bedrooms, and location next to the bay’s famous phosphorescent waters. Each unit has either a balcony or a terrace. Bathrooms are rather cramped but well maintained, and each has either a shower or a tub. This place is more gregarious and convivial, and usually more fun, than the Porlamar, a few steps away.

The spacious, air-conditioned restaurant, where the occasionally slow service might remind you of Spain in a bygone era, offers traditional favorites, such as filet of fish stuffed with lobster and shrimp. Nonguests are welcome here, and there’s a play area for children. Because the inn is popular with local vacationers, there are frequent specials, such as a $425 weekend (Fri–Sun) special for two that includes welcome drinks, breakfasts, dinners, flowers, and dancing, along with a free show.

There’s a dock right outside the restaurant where boats tie up, which is convenient because the thing to do here is to hire a boat and explore the beautiful shallow coast replete with reefs and tropical sea life.

Main St. 304 (P.O. Box 3400), Carretera 304, Km 303, La Parguera, Lajas, PR 00667. www.villaparguera.net. 787/899-7777. Fax 787/899-6040. 74 units (all with either shower or tub). Sun–Thurs $97–$110, Fri–Sat $120–$165 double. 2 children 9 or under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Drive west along Rte. 2 until you reach the junction with Rte. 116; then head south along Rte. 116 and Rte. 304. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; pool; rooms for those w/limited mobility. In room: A/C, TV.

Where to Eat

Besides the following recommendation, the formal dining room at Parador Villa Parguera (see “Where to Stay,” above) also is an excellent dinner option.

Aguazul SEAFOOD/CREATIVE CARIBBEAN Chef Tamara Zoe has great stuff every day on offer: linguini in a tomato vodka sauce, cod in a black risotto, lobster crepes, or mustard-marmalade beef tenderloin. There are glorious seafood risottos and a seafood mampositado, a Latin fried rice delight. This is about the fanciest fare in town, and Chef Tamara and the rest of the gang will make you feel at home with personal, welcoming, and efficient service.

Calle Reina y Calle Principal 304. 787/899-8014. Reservations recommended. Main courses $12–$27. MC, V. Daily 5–10pm.

La Casita SEAFOOD The town’s most consistently reliable and popular restaurant dating back to the 1960s, it sits in a simple wooden building by the sea, with an interior of varnished pine, the perfect backdrop for platters of local and imported fish and shellfish. Filets of fish can be served in any of seven different styles; lobster comes in five, and it’s a great spot to try Caribbean lobster. Mofongo is stuffed with crab, octopus, shrimp, lobster, or assorted shellfish. Begin with fish chowder, a dozen cheese balls, or fish croquettes. End with coconut-flavored flan. A simple family spot, reflected in the service and decor.

Calle Principal 304. 787/899-1681. Main courses $12–$25 MC, V. Fri–Sat 4–9:30pm, Sun noon–8pm.

Boqueron

Lying 85 miles (137km) southwest of San Juan and 33 miles (53km) west of Ponce is the little beach town of Boquerón. It is just south of Cabo Rojo, west of the historic city of San Germán, and near the western edge of the Boquerón Forest Preserve.

What puts sleepy Boquerón on the tourist map is its lovely public beach, one of the island’s finest for swimming. It is also known for the shellfish found offshore. The beach has facilities, including lockers and changing places, plus kiosks that rent watersports equipment. Parking costs $2. On weekends, the resort tends to be crowded with families driving down from San Juan.

The outfitter that offers the best scuba diving in the area is Mona Aquatics, on Calle José de Diego, directly west of the heart of town ( 787/851-2185) near the town marina and Hotel Boquemar. A two-tank dive off the coast’s famed diving area costs $75 per person (equipment rental $51).

From Boquerón, you can head directly south to El Faro de Cabo Rojo at the island’s southernmost corner. The century-old Cabo Rojo Lighthouse lies on Rte. 301, along a spit of land between Bahía Sucia and Bahía Salinas. Looking down from the lighthouse, you’ll see a 2,000-foot (610m) drop along jagged limestone cliffs. The lighthouse dates from 1881, when it was constructed under Spanish rule. The famous pirate Roberto Cofresi used to terrorize the coast along here in the 19th century and was said to have hidden out in a cave nearby.

A Wildlife Refuge for Bird Fanciers

The area around Cabo Rojo, the Refugio Nacional Cabo Rojo (Red Cape National Refuge; 787/851-7297), attracts serious bird-watchers to its government-protected sector. The refuge, run by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service, is on Rte. 301 at Km 5.1, 1 mile (1.6km) north of the turnoff to El Combate. At the entrance to the refuge is a visitor center. The only time you can visit the refuge is from 9am to 4pm Monday to Saturday; admission is free. Migratory birds, especially ducks and herons as well as several species of songbirds, inhabit this refuge. Birders have reported seeing at least 130 species. Trails for bird-watchers have been cut through the reserve. The best time to observe the birds is during the winter months, when they have fled from their cold homelands in the north.

Where to Eat

Boquerón has great roadside food stands. You can get everything from fresh oysters to hand-rolled burritos from vendors set up along the beach village’s main drag. Open air bars and restaurants also sell turnovers stuffed with fresh fish, lobster, or conch, as well as seafood ceviche salad in plastic cups.

Galloway’s ★ CREOLE/CONTINENTAL This is our favorite restaurant in Boquerón, right near the center of town but set back along the water. Sit in the back dining room that is on a dock over Boquerón Bay. It’s a great spot for a fresh seafood meal as you watch one of those perfect western sunsets. This is a casual spot, but the food is first rate. Being right on the water, we can’t help but take our seafood straight up—such as a whole fried red snapper or grilled Caribbean lobster. While much of the menu is typical of the area, specializing in local cuisine and seafood, you’ll also find great ribs, steaks, and pub fare. The bar near the entrance is a good spot to mix with locals and ex-pats and pick up tips on area activities. On weekends, there’s sometimes live music.

12 Calle José de Diego, Poblado de Boquerón, Cabo Rojo. 787/254-3302. Main courses $11–$29. AE, MC, V. Thurs–Tues noon–midnight.

La Cascada CREOLE/CONTINENTAL One of the best restaurants in the area, this popular bar and restaurant is a meson gastronómico, a Puerto Rico Tourism Company program that sponsors local restaurants it deems of sufficient quality to cater to tourists. Among its other virtues, La Cascada boasts an interior waterfall. The day begins early here. The chef’s breakfast specialty is an omelet Cascada, with ham, tomatoes, onions, peppers, and cheese. At dinner, many Creole recipes appear, such as mofongo relleno (stuffed mashed plantains); the plantains can be stuffed with lobster, shrimp, octopus, or conch.

The meats, such as filet mignon, are imported but tasty. Choose among five different sauces to be served with your lobster. Other specialties of the chef include chicken breast stuffed with lobster or shrimp. The tastiest appetizers are fish and cheese balls.

In the Parador Boquemar, Carretera 101, Poblado de Boquerón, Cabo Rojo. 787/851-2158. Breakfast $5–$10; main courses $12–$29. AE, MC, V. Daily 7:30–10:30am; Thurs–Tues 5–9pm.

Where to Stay

Bahia Salinas Beach Resort & Spa ★★ If you are looking for peace and quiet, are a nature lover or a bird-watcher, you will love this intimate inn, but if you want to eat at a different restaurant every night and hit the town afterwards, you are better off staying closer to the center of Boquerón. Located in a remote area of Cabo Rojo, you’ll need to drive to get into town at night. The inn is located near the Cabo Rojo Lighthouse, which is at the southwest corner of Puerto Rico, an undeveloped coastal region with salt flats, a mangrove reserve, and a bird sanctuary. Salt mineral waters, similar to those of the Dead Sea, supply water for the on-site Jacuzzi and for treatments at its Cuni Spa, which gives a full range of beauty and relaxation treatments. There is ample opportunity for jogging and hiking in the natural surroundings as well as all sorts of watersports. The beach here is not the best; you’ll want to drive over to the public beach for a better beach, but the infinity pool area is lovely. The hotel’s Agua al Cuello restaurant is excellent and will keep you satisfied for a few nights running, and the bar makes great drinks. The bedrooms are midsize to large, and are furnished in the so-called “hacienda” Puerto Rican style, which means wooden colonial-style furniture and four-poster beds. The place is well run and maintained.

Rd. 301, Km 11.5, Sector El Faro, Cabo Rojo, PR 00622. www.bahiasalina.com. 787/254-1212. Fax 787/254-1215. 22 units. $159–$186 double. Children 11 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; high-speed Internet access; 2 outdoor pools; room service; rooms for those w/limited mobility. In room: A/C, TV.

Cofresi Beach Hotel Set on the town’s main road across from one of the area’s best dive shops, this is a choice for clients who can live without maid service and other resort-oriented amenities—there is no full-time reception or concierge staff. The apartments here have kitchens with cutlery, plates, and cooking equipment, durable furniture, and comfortable beds; each has a small, tiled bathroom with a tub and shower. It’s about as laissez-faire as they come.

Calle Muñoz Rivera 57, P.O. Box 1209, Boquerón, PR 00622. www.cofresibeach.com. 787/254-3000. Fax 787/254-1048. 12 units. $129 1-bedroom; $165 2-bedroom; $219 3-bedroom. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Pool. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, kitchenette.

Parador Boquemar This family favorite lies right at the heart of town by Boquerón Beach. A recent renovation has spruced up the common areas and guest rooms, which gives them a more tropical feel, but the hotel still lacks character. Despite the small units here, Puerto Rican families like this place a lot, causing readers to complain that children sometimes run up and down the corridors. Rooms are simple but comfortable and clean. This is not the place to stay if you are going for ambience, but it is a good deal at a great location. Kids will enjoy the pool. Stay here only if you plan to spend most of your time outside the hotel. The hotel’s restaurant, La Cascada, has good food, but again the atmosphere leaves much to be desired (see “Where to Eat,” above).

Carretera 101, Poblado de Boquerón, Cabo Rojo, PR 00622. www.boquemar.com. 787/851-2158. Fax 787/851-7600. 75 units (shower only). $117–$133 double; $143 junior suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; outside pool; Wi-Fi in lobby; rooms for that w/limited mobility. In room: A/C, TV, small fridge.

Wildflowers The rooms in this guesthouse have charming classic furnishings, which are as comfortable as they are appealing, and all the modern conveniences you need. Original work by local artists hangs throughout the premises, including inside guest rooms, which also adds tremendously to the ambience. Near town and the beach, its proximity is also a plus, except during summer and holiday weekends, when the roving partygoers will keep you up until 1am. The rooms are sizeable and can sleep up to four people.

Calle Muñoz Rivera 13, Poblado de Boquerón, Cabo Rojo, PR 00622. www.wildflowersguesthouse.com. 787/851-1793. Fax 787/255-4096. 8 units. Winter $100–$125 double; off-season $75–$100 double. MC, V. Amenities: A/C, TV, small fridge.

San German ★★

104 miles (167km) SW of San Juan, 34 miles (55km) W of Ponce

Only an hour’s drive from Ponce and right near the beaches of the southwest coast, and just over 2 hours from San Juan, San Germán, Puerto Rico’s second-oldest town, is a little museum piece. It was founded in 1512 and destroyed by the French in 1528. Rebuilt in 1570, it was named after Germain de Foix, the second wife of King Ferdinand of Spain. Once the rival of San Juan, San Germán harbored many pirates who pillaged the ships that sailed off the nearby coastline. Indeed, many of today’s residents are descended from the smugglers, poets, priests, and politicians who once lived here.

The pirates and sugar plantations are long gone, but the city retains colorful reminders of its Spanish colonial past. Flowers brighten some of the patios here as they do in Seville. Also like in a small Spanish town, many of the inhabitants stroll through the historic zone in the early evening. Nicknamed Ciudad de las Lomas (City of the Hills), San Germán boasts verdant scenery that provides a pleasant backdrop to a variety of architectural styles—Spanish colonial (1850s), criolla (1880s), neoclassical (1910s), Art Deco (1930s), and international (1960s)—depicted in the gracious old-world buildings lining the streets. So significant are these buildings that San Germán is included in the National Register of Historic Places.

The city’s 249 historical treasures are within easy walking distance of one another. Regrettably, you must view most of them from the outside. If some of them are actually open, count yourself fortunate, as they have no phones, keep no regular hours, and are staffed by volunteers who rarely show up. Also, be aware that the signage for the historic buildings can be confusing, and many of the streets in the old town tend to run one-way. Most of the city’s architectural treasures lie uphill from the congested main thoroughfare (Calle Luna). We usually try to park on the town’s main street (Carretera 102, which changes its name within the borders of San Germán to Calle Luna), and then proceed on foot through the city’s commercial core before reaching the architectural highlights described below.

One of the most noteworthy churches in Puerto Rico is Iglesia Porta Coeli (Gate of Heaven) ★ ( 787/892-0160), which sits atop a knoll at the eastern end of a cobble-covered square, the Parque de Santo Domingo. Dating from 1606 and built in a style inspired by the Romanesque architecture of northern Spain, this is the oldest church in the New World. Restored by the Institute of Puerto Rican Culture, and sheathed in a layer of salmon-colored stucco, it contains a museum of religious art with a collection of ancient santos, the carved figures of saints that have long been a major part of Puerto Rican folk art. Look for the 17th-century portrait of St. Nicholas de Bari, the French Santa Claus. Inside, the original palm-wood ceiling and tough ausubo-wood beams draw the eye upward. Other treasures include early choral books from Santo Domingo, a primitive carving of Jesus, and 19th-century Señora de la Monserrate Black Madonna and Child statues. Admission is $3 for adults, $2 for seniors and children over 12, free for children 12 and under. The church is open Wednesday through Sunday from 8:30am to noon and 1 to 4:30pm.

Less than 100 feet (30m) downhill from Iglesia Porta Coeli, at the bottom of the steps that lead from its front door down to the plaza below, is the Casa Morales (also known as the Tomás Vivoni House, after its architect), San Germán’s most photographed and widely recognized house. Designed in the Edwardian style, with wraparound porches, elaborate gables, and elements that might remind you of a Swiss chalet, it was built in 1913, reflecting the region’s turn-of-the-20th-century agrarian prosperity. (Note that it is a private residence and can be admired only from the outside.)

The long and narrow, gently sloping plaza that fronts Iglesia Porta Coeli is the Parque de Santo Domingo, one of San Germán’s two main plazas. Street signs also identify the plaza as the Calle Ruiz Belvis. Originally a marketplace, the plaza is paved with red and black cobblestones. It is bordered with cast-iron benches and portrait busts of prominent figures in the town’s history. This plaza merges gracefully with a second plaza, which street signs and maps identify as the Plaza Francisco Mariano Quiñones, the Calle José Julian Acosta, and the Plaza Principal. Separating the two plazas is the unused (and closed to the public) Viejo Alcaldía (Old Town Hall). Built late in the 19th century, it’s awaiting a new vision, perhaps as a museum or public building.

San Germán’s most impressive church—and the most monumental building in the region—is San Germán de Auxerre ( 787/892-1027), which rises majestically above the western end of the Plaza Francisco Mariano Quiñones. Designed in the Spanish baroque style, it was built in 1573 in the form of a simple chapel with a low-slung thatch roof. Its present grandeur is the result of at least five subsequent enlargements and renovations. Much of what you see today is the result of a rebuilding in 1688 and a restoration in 1737 that followed a disastrous earthquake. Inside are three naves, 10 altars, three chapels, and a belfry that was rebuilt in 1939, following an earthquake in 1918. The central chandelier, made from rock crystal and imported from Barcelona in 1866, is the largest in the Caribbean. The pride of the church is the trompe l’oeil ceiling, which was elaborately restored in 1993. A series of stained-glass windows with contemporary designs was inserted during a 1999 restoration. The church can be visited daily from 8 to 11am and 1 to 3pm.

A few lesser sights are located near the town’s two main squares. Farmacia Martin, a modern pharmacy, is incongruously set within the shell of a graceful but battered Art Deco building at the edge of the Parque Santo Domingo (Calle Ruiz Belvis 22; 787/892-1122). A cluster of battered and dilapidated clapboard-sided houses line the southern side of the Calle Dr. Ueve, which rambles downhill from its origin at the base of the Iglesia Porta Coeli. The most important house is no. 66, the Casa Acosta y Fores. Also noteworthy is Casa Juán Perichi, a substantial-looking structure at the corner of Calle Dr. Ueve and Parque Santo Domingo, nearly adjacent to the Iglesia Porta Coeli. Both houses were built around 1917, of traditional wood construction, and are viewed as fine examples of Puerto Rican adaptations of Victorian architecture. Regrettably, both are seriously dilapidated, although that might change as San Germán continues the slow course of its historic renovations.

To the side of the Auxerre church is the modern, cement-sided Public Library, Calle José Julia Acosta, where you might be tempted to duck into the air-conditioned interior for a glance through the stacks and periodicals collection. It’s open Monday through Thursday from 8am to 8:30pm, Friday from 8am to 6pm, and Saturday from 8am to 1pm and 2 to 4:30pm. Behind the Auxerre church is at least one masonry-fronted town house whose design might remind you of southern Spain (Andalusia), especially when the flowers in the window boxes add splashes of color.

Where to Eat

Restaurante L’Auxerre ★ This French restaurant is that rare eatery in downtown San Germán that actually lives up to its surroundings. The artfulness of the cuisine in San Germán is as surprising as the historic district itself in a region of kitschy beach towns. The menus change weekly, but Chef Pierre Saussy, who has worked with such names as Roger Verger to Rocco Dispirito, keeps his fine contemporary cuisine simple and on point, taking advantage of fresh seasonal ingredients. Recent items include filet mignon with truffle potato pureé and roast asparagus, linguini with chicken in an almond and basil pesto, and roast mahimahi in a brown-butter caper sauce with potato purée. It’s also a perfect spot for Sunday brunch if you are in the area, with goat cheese and shrimp omelets and steak and eggs available. The restaurant is inside a Spanish hacienda in the heart of the historic district. Sit outside in the interior patio to soak up all its charm; the inside dining room is a bit cramped.

Calle Estrella 16, San Germán. 787/892-8844. Reservations recommended. Entrees $14–$31. AE, MC, V. Wed–Thurs 6–10pm; Fri–Sat 6pm–midnight; Sun 11am–4pm.

Tapas Café ★ This charming restaurant is a favorite spot in the historic district of San Germán, an oasis of sophistication in the provincial countryside. The interior dining room, with blue mosaic tiles, high ceilings, and whitewashed walls, offers a cool respite from the heat. Portions are sizeable. The seafood paella is loaded with prawns, mussels, and lobster, and the beef medallions in blue cheese did not disappoint. Other menu items range from Spanish sausage sautéed in wine sauce to the classic soup caldo gallego to fried fish fritters.

Calle Dr. Santiago Veve 50, San Germán. 787/264-0610. Tapas $2–$15. AE, MC, V. Wed–Thurs 5–10pm; Fri–Sat 5–11pm; Sun 11am–9pm.

The Southern Mountains

The mountain towns surrounding the gorgeous Toro Negro Forest Reserve straddle Puerto Rico’s highest peaks that run along the center of the island. The area is included here because it is most accessible from the south, from Ponce and surrounding towns. The mountain towns include Villalba, Orocovis, Adjuntas, and Jayuya, as well as parts of Utuado, Coamo, and Juana Díaz. Even from Ponce, the best route to this region is to head east first along the coastal Hwy. 2 to neighboring Juana Díaz. Then take Rte. 149 north through town and into the lush mountains of Villalba. Continue straight until the intersection of Rte. 143 west to get to Toro Negro Forest Reserve (there’s an entrance at Km 32.4).

Toro Negro Forest Reserve ★ & Lake Guineo ★

North of Ponce, Toro Negro Forest Reserve ★ ( 787/867-3040) lies along the Cordillera Central, the cloud-shrouded, lush central mountain chain that spans Puerto Rico’s spine from the southeast town of Yabucoa all the way to outside Mayagüez on the west coast. This 7,000-acre (2,833-hectare) park, ideal for hikers, straddles the highest peak of the Cordillera Central at the very heart of Puerto Rico, quite near the midway point between east and west coasts. A forest of lush trees, the reserve also contains the headwaters of several main rivers and lakes, and has several crashing waterfalls. The reserve lies at the borders of four mountain towns: Villalba, Jayuya, Adjuntas, and Orocovis.

The lowest temperatures recorded on the island—some 40°F (4°C)—were measured at Lake Guineo ★, the island’s highest lake, which lies within the reserve. The best trail to take here is a short, paved, and wickedly steep path on the north side of Rte. 143, going up to the south side of Cerro de Punta, which at 4,390 feet (1,338m) is the highest peak on Puerto Rico. Allow about half an hour for an ascent. Once at the top, you’ll be rewarded with Puerto Rico’s grandest view, sweeping across the lush interior from the Atlantic to the Caribbean coasts. Other mountains in the reserve also offer hiking possibilities. The reserve spans several distinct types, including a sierra palm forest, which, in places, forms a complete canopy from the sun, and a mountainous cloud forest, with dwarfed, but vibrantly green plants and trees.

The main entrance to the forest is at the Doña Juana recreational area, which has a swimming pool filled with cold water from the mountain streams, a picnic area, and a rustic campground. An adjacent restaurant serves up Puerto Rican barbecued chicken and pork and other local delicacies. Many hiking trails originate from this area. One of the best is a 2-mile (3.2km) trek to an observation post and the impressive 200-foot (61m) Doña Juana Falls.

Jayuya lies north of the reserve, but to access it, you must return east along Rte. 143 to Rte. 149, and take that north, farther into the central mountains to Rte. 144, which you’ll take back west to access the town. This is a beautiful area, filled with old coffee estates and lush mountain forest. The local parador is a country inn built on the grounds of an old coffee plantation (Parador Hacienda Gripiñas; see below), which is one of the best places to stay in Puerto Rico’s interior. There’s also a fine restaurant on the grounds. Built by a Spanish coffee baron more than 150 years ago, the restored plantation home is surrounded by gardens and coffee fields.

Jayuya is also known for the relics found here from Puerto Rico’s Taíno past. Off Rte. 144 is La Piedra Escrita, the Written Rock, a huge boulder beside a stream, with Taíno petroglyphs carved into the stone. It’s a wonderful picnic spot. Jayuya also hosts an annual Indigenous Festival in November, which combines native crafts with music and food. The Cemi Museum, Rte. 144, Km 9.3 ( 787/828-1241), in town has a collection of Taíno pottery and cemís, amulets sacred to the island’s indigenous peoples. The adjacent Casa Museo Canales, Rte. 144, Km 9.4 ( 787/828-1241), is a restored 19th-century coffee plantation home with interesting exhibits. Both museums charge $1 for adults and 50¢ for children and are open from 9am to 3pm every day.

Where to Stay & Eat

Hacienda Gripiñas ★ This restored plantation home is set amid 20 acres (8 hectares) of coffee fields and nature. It’s a charming respite from the 21st century. Take a walk in the cool mountain countryside, then stake out a hammock or rocking chair on the porch or one of the many balconies and relax awhile. First built in 1853 by coffee baron and Spanish nobleman Eusebio Pérez del Castillo, the former plantation home was turned into an inn in 1975 but retains the elegance and grandeur of its past. A wide porch wraps around this restored plantation home, and there are gorgeous gardens and coffee fields surrounding it. There are also reading rooms and common areas in which to lounge. The sweet song of chanting coquíes, ubiquitous small Puerto Rican tree frogs, fills the air. There is also an excellent restaurant on the premises and a pool. A small trail from here leads to the summit of Cerro Punta, Puerto Rico’s highest peak. There are frequent specials with meals included that make sense for visitors because of the parador’s isolation. If you are looking for solitude, go during the week, and you will likely have the place to yourself and a few other guests and save a few bucks on your tab.

Rte. 527, Km 2.5, Jayuya, PR 00664. www.haciendagripinas.com. 787/828-1717. Fax 787/828-1718. 18 units. Mon–Wed $77–$99 double; Thurs–Sun $93–105 double. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; library; 2 pools. In room: A/C, TV.