Chapter 9: Eastern Puerto Rico

The northeast corner of the island, less than an hour from San Juan, contains the island’s major attractions: El Yunque rainforest, two of the world’s rare bioluminescent bays whose waters glow at night, and several great beaches, including Luquillo Beach (see chapter 6 as well). There are a variety of landscapes, ranging from miles of forest to palm groves and beachside settlements. Here, you will find one of the best resorts on the island, El Conquistador Resort, which literally sits on the northeast corner of Puerto Rico, where the Atlantic Ocean and the Caribbean Sea meet.

At Fajardo, a preeminent sailor’s haven, you can catch ferries to the nearby island municipalities of Vieques and Culebra (see chapter 10). The east coast city is actually the start of a chain of islands, moving onwards to the island towns and weaving along the neighboring U.S. and British Virgin Islands and beyond. The area forms perhaps the greatest pleasure-boating area in the world.

The Navy completed its exodus from Roosevelt Roads base south of Fajardo in 2004, and the government is proposing a massive tourism development, but for the moment Ceiba and Naguabo are sleepy, quaint towns that are worth a look.

Halfway down the coast is Humacao, home to Palmas del Mar Resort, an ever-growing resort and upscale vacation-home community on a wildly gorgeous beachfront, with a Sheraton Five Points hotel. Visitors can also rent private vacation homes and villas throughout the resort, which sprawls across 2,700 acres (1,093 hectares) and has a yacht club, equestrian center, the Caribbean’s largest tennis center, a beach and country clubs, great beaches, and lush tropical grounds. Plenty of watersports activities are available. Luxury residences, used as both vacation properties and year-round homes, are divided into distinct communities. Palmas also has its own school and post office.

The José Celso Barbosa Expressway 53 heads south from Humacao and then joins Rte. 3, and turns the southeast corner of Puerto Rico towards Guayama and Puerto Rico’s long Caribbean coast, which is actually at its prettiest at its eastern and western extremes.

At Yabucoa, take the coastal Rte. 901, which switches back and forth along oceanfront cliffs and sleepy coastal villages, to experience one of the most breathtaking series of views on the island. The road continues to hug the coast as it reconnects with Hwy. 3 and rounds the southeast corner of Puerto Rico to Guayama. There are several nice beaches.

This once important sugar town has long since been converted into an industrial and commercial center, but time stands still at its downtown plaza, which has beautiful Spanish colonial architecture, restored buildings, and a provincial air.

Fajardo

35 miles (56km) E of San Juan

Eastern Puerto Rico

A huge submerged coral reef off Fajardo’s coast protects its southeastern waters, which are also blessed by trade winds—a sailors’ delight. The Caribbean waters here are run through with coral and marine life, from barracudas and nurse sharks to shimmering schools of tropical fish, making this area a diving and snorkeling paradise.

There are dozens of small islands off the coast of this eastern town. Fajardo itself has untrammeled beaches surrounded by wilderness, with great snorkeling and scuba opportunities right offshore. It also has a bioluminescent bay and other natural wonders. Its unvarnished town center has atmospheric bars and cafetíns serving up cold drinks and tasty Creole cooking at bargain prices.

There are seven marinas in town, and with reason: Fajardo is the first of a string of ports extending to Vieques and Culebra, the U.S. and British Virgin Islands, and the Windward island chain, the pleasure-boating capital of the Caribbean. There are also gorgeous beaches, snorkeling spots, and untamed forest.

Las Croabas, a seafront village within the municipality, is the site of the El Conquistador Resort & Golden Door Spa, a leader in luxury since its casino was used as the setting for pivotal scenes in the 1964 James Bond classic film Goldfinger. Today, the Mediterranean-inspired fantasy resort has its own funicular, water park, several pools in a breathtaking setting, a marina, a private ferry, and private island with caverns, nature trails, horseback riding and watersports, plus classically beautiful beaches. The resort is divided into a main hotel, an upscale Andalusian village, and two modern resort communities, all tied together with lush landscaping. It also has full sports, spa, health, and beauty facilities.

The resort sprawls across a dramatic cliff and down along a harbor area, overlooking the coast with an infinite view of water stretching out from all sides. The back terraces and circular casino share the view, as do the leveled infinity pools stretching across the bluff. The buildings are wrought with Mediterranean motifs, from blooming Spanish courtyards to elegant neoclassical facades and fountains. A tramway takes guests down to sea level and the resort marina, and a ferry takes guests to the resort’s beach on an offshore island.

Las Croabas is a charming fishing village, with boats tied up at harbor and open-air seafood restaurants. Many are clustered along Rte. 987 at the entrances of the Seven Seas public beach and Las Cabezas de San Juan Nature Reserve, over 300 acres (121 hectares) of dry forest, virgin coast, and mangrove swamp. It also borders the exquisite bioluminescent bay, with glowing nocturnal waters. The restored 19th-century lighthouse still functions. The road ends in a circle, which wraps around a park at the village harbor. Several operators rent kayaks for daytime snorkeling trips or evening trips to the bio bay at the adjacent nature reserve. You can paddle across the bay and through mangrove canals to make it to the bio bay.

To the lighthouse: Exploring Las Cabezas de San Juan Nature Reserve

Las Cabezas de San Juan Nature Reserve is better known as El Faro, or “the Lighthouse.” Located in the northeastern corner of the island, it is one of the most beautiful and important areas in Puerto Rico. Here you’ll find seven ecological systems and a restored 19th-century Spanish colonial lighthouse. From the lighthouse observation deck, majestic views extend to islands as far off as St. Thomas in the U.S. Virgin Islands.

Surrounded on three sides by the Atlantic Ocean, the 316-acre (128-hectare) site encompasses forestland, mangroves, lagoons, beaches, cliffs, offshore cays, and coral reefs. Boardwalk trails wind through the fascinating topography. Ospreys, sea turtles, and an occasional manatee are seen from the windswept promontories and rocky beach.

The nature reserve is open Wednesday through Sunday. Reservations are required; for reservations during the week, call 787/722-5882; during the weekend, reserve by calling 787/860-2560 (weekend reservations must be made on the day of your visit). Admission is $8 for adults, $5 for children 13 and under, and $5 for seniors. Guided 2 1/2-hour tours are conducted at 9:30, 10, and 10:30am, and 2pm (in English at 2pm).

Laguna Grande, within the reserve, is one of the world’s best bioluminescent bays, along with one on the neighboring island of Vieques. The presence of multitudes of tiny organisms, called dinoflagellates, in the protected bay is responsible for the nocturnal glow of its waters. They feed off the red mangroves surrounding the water. Kayaking through the bay at night should be on your bucket list. We highly recommend Las Tortugas Adventures, P.O. Box 1637, Canóvanas 00729 ( 787/636-8356 or 809-0253; http://kayak-pr.com). Gary Horne is one of the most experienced guides in Puerto Rico; he’s a certified dive master and coast guard veteran. There are two nightly tours of the bay at 6 and 8pm Monday through Saturday, which cost $45 per person—or daytime kayak and snorkel adventures for $75, which we highly recommend as well. Another option is a kayak adventure along the Río Espirtu Santo, a beautiful river through El Yunque rainforest.

Getting There

El Conquistador staff members greet guests at the San Juan airport and transport them to the resort. Guests can take a taxi to the resort for $80, but that’s more than the roundtrip fare aboard the plush resort shuttle from Luis Muñoz Marín Airport ($74 adults, $54 for children 12 and under—for hotel guests only). If you’re driving from San Juan, head east along the new Rte. 66 Corridor Noreste highway and then Rte. 3 toward Fajardo. At the intersection, cut northeast on Rte. 195 and continue to the intersection with Rte. 987, at which point you turn north. To fully enjoy all El Conquistador’s offerings, you’ll probably want to stay there for several days. You might want to rent a car from Fajardo for only part of your stay, and take the shuttle to and from the airport.

Outdoor Activities

In addition to the lovely beach and the many recreational facilities that are part of El Conquistador, there are other notable places to play in the vicinity.

Some of the best snorkeling in Puerto Rico is in and around Fajardo. Its public beach, Playa Seven Seas, is an attractive and sheltered strip of sand. The beach lies on the southwestern shoreline of Las Cabezas peninsula and is crowded on weekends, but the snorkeling is fine, especially on its western and eastern extremities.

At the western end of this beach and along a half-mile dirt path cutting though a wooded mount, you’ll come to another path through shrub forest heading to Playa Escondido (Hidden Beach), a small white-sand cover with coral reefs in aquamarine waters right off this beach.

If you continue straight for another mile, you will come to the gorgeous El Convento Beach, stretching out along the miles-long undeveloped coastline between Fajardo and Luquillo. When the surf is calm, this is some of the best snorkeling off mainland Puerto Rico shores.

The area has managed to ward off development despite the building craze taking place across much of the rest of Puerto Rico, with only a few unmarked dirt roads providing access, and paths such as the one from Seven Seas. The area is a nesting ground for endangered sea turtles, and its waters teem with reefs and fish. A small forest runs along much of the beach, and behind it stands the imposing El Yunque rainforest, looming over the white-sand beach and pristine blue waters. About a mile down the beach is the governor’s official beach house, El Convento, a rustic wooden cottage. Just beyond the cottage is a great spot to snorkel. The water plunges steeply just offshore and is pocked with large reefs, which draw even large fish close to shore.

Environmentalists have pushed to protect this area from development, while developers want to build two large resorts. The administration is currently drawing up boundaries of a proposed nature reserve, which is to allow some “low-impact” tourism back from the coast.

To get here, you can hike from Fajardo’s Seven Seas Public Beach, outside the resort just before Las Croabas village. It’s a 2-mile (3km) hike through a trail in the shrub forest on its eastern end to El Convento Beach, a miles-long stretch of largely untouched beachfront, home to sea turtles and reef-studded waters with great snorkeling. The official vacation home of Puerto Rico’s governor is the only development to speak of. The dirt road leading to it is the only road near the beach, one of the reasons it has been able to escape the stampede of development that has remade most of Puerto Rico over the last several decades.

Tennis The seven Har-Tru courts at El Conquistador ★★ are among the best tennis courts in Puerto Rico, rivaling those at Palmas del Mar. The staff at the pro shop are extremely helpful to beginning players. Courts are the least crowed during the hottest part of the day, around the lunch hour. If you’re a single traveler to the resort and in search of a player, the pro shop will try to match you up with a player of equal skill.

Watersports Several operators offer day sailing trips (10am–3pm) from Fajardo marinas, which include sailing, snorkeling, swimming, and a stop at one of the island beaches, where lunch is usually served. It’s the easiest way to really experience the Caribbean marine world while in Puerto Rico. Prices, including lunch and equipment, start from $69 per person. The trips are aboard luxury catamarans, with plush seating, a sound system, and other comforts, such as a bar. Captains know the best spots, where reefs attract schools of feeding fish, depending on conditions. These are among the most gin-clear and tranquil waters in Puerto Rico. They are teeming with wildlife, including several species of fish such as grouper, but also lobster, moray eels, and sea turtles. Among the local operators are Traveler Sailing Catamaran ( 787/863-2821), East Island Excursions ( 787/860-3434), Salty Dog Catamarans ( 787/717-6378), and Catamaran Spread Eagle ( 787/887-8821). Erin Go Bragh Charters ( 787/860-4401) offers similar day trips aboard a 50-foot sailing ketch.

For scuba divers, La Casa del Mar ( 787/863-3483 or 863-1000, ext. 7919) is one good option operating out of El Conquistador. You can go for ocean dives on the outfitter’s boats; a two-tank dive goes for $99, including equipment. A PADI snorkel program, at $60 per person, is also available. It’s located at the marina. Sea Ventures Dive Center (Rte. 3, Km 51.4, Puerto del Rey; 787/863-3483) has a $109 offer for a two-tank dive.

Fajardo’s seven marinas are proof that it is a sailor’s paradise. The most renowned is the Puerto del Rey Marina (Rte. 3, Km 51.4; 787/860-1000 or 801-3010). The swankiest marina in Fajardo, it’s a beautiful 1,100-slip facility south of town, the largest in the Caribbean. It’s like a city unto itself with restaurants, bars, and a host of other services. Villa Marina Yacht Harbour (Rte. 987, Km 1.3; 787/863-5131 or 863-5011) is the other main marina in town, and is the shortest ride to the offshore cays and isolated white-sand beaches on the mainland. Charters operate out of both. There’s a private 35-slip marina at the lowest level of the El Conquistador ( 787/863-1000).

Where to Eat

Expensive

Blossoms ★ CHINESE/JAPANESE Blossoms boasts some of the freshest seafood in eastern Puerto Rico. Sizzling delights are prepared on teppanyaki tables, and there’s a zesty selection of Hunan and Szechuan specialties. On the teppanyaki menu, you can choose dishes ranging from chicken to shrimp, from filet mignon to lobster. Sushi bar selections range from eel and squid to salmon roe and giant clams.

Rte. 987, Km 3.4, in the El Conquistador Resort. 787/863-1000. Reservations recommended. Main courses $18–$49. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 6–11:30pm.

La Estación ★ BARBECUE This funky outdoor restaurant in a converted gas station is one of a myriad of beautiful results of the decades-long culture clash between Puerto Rico and New York. The nuyorican barbecue served here is a down-to earth culinary proposition, and it’s executed to smoky perfection, thanks to the natural charcoal barbecue method, fresh seafood, and fine cuts and delicious sauces. A classically trained chef, Kevin Roth worked in hit restaurants in New York before opening up the Fajardo grill place with his partner Idalia García. The green papaya salad and house Caesar salad (with Serrano ham and manchego cheese) are great openers, and shrimp kebabs, grilled mahimahi, and pork medallions are all excellent. There’s a different grilled fish and selection of fresh grilled vegetables daily. You dine on terraces spreading out from the kitchen, which is in the old gas station, and there is also a bar on a huge cedar deck. It’s right on the road to Las Croabas.

Rte. 987, Km. 4, Las Croabas, Fajardo. 787/863-4481. Reservations recommended. Main courses $10–$30. MC, V. Mon–Wed 5pm–midnight, Fri–Sun 3–10pm, Fri–Sat 5–11pm,.

La Picolla Fontana ★ NORTHERN ITALIAN Dine by candlelight in a neo-Palladian ambience, and feel like Roman royalty. The menu is straight-ahead, northern Italian cuisine, but it’s prepared to perfection in a romantic room that drips old-time glamour. It has the same great menu as the El San Juan location and the same sky-high prices. Start out with sautéed clams in white wine and garlic sauce, escargot in butter or a Caprese salad, then move on to a shrimp fra diavolo or chicken saltimboca. The pastas (from the penne with Mediterranean vegetables to the spinach taglioni in a porcini cream sauce) are wonderful, and so are the risottos.

Rte. 987, Km 3.4, in the El Conquistador Resort. 787/863-1000. Reservations recommended. Main courses $26–$55. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 6–10:30pm.

Where to Stay

Very Expensive

El Conquistador Resort: The Waldorf Astoria Collection ★★ El Conquistador is a destination unto itself. Its array of facilities sits on 500 acres (202 hectares) of forested hills sloping down to the sea. Accommodations are divided into five separate sections united by their Mediterranean architecture and lush landscaping. Most lie several hundred feet above the sea. At the same altitude, a bit off to the side, is a replica of an Andalusian hamlet, Las Casitas Village, which seems straight out of the south of Spain. These pricey units, each with a full kitchen, form a self-contained enclave.

A short walk down the hill takes you to a circular cluster of tastefully modern accommodations, Las Olas Village. And at sea level, adjacent to an armada of pleasure craft bobbing at anchor, is La Marina Village, whose balconies seem to hang directly over the water. The accommodations are outfitted with comfortable furniture, tropical colors, and robes. All the far-flung elements of the resort are connected by serpentine, landscaped walkways and by a railroad-style funicular that makes frequent trips up and down the hillside.

One of the most comprehensive spas in the Caribbean, the Golden Door maintains a branch in this resort. The hotel is sole owner of a “fantasy island” (Palomino Island), with caverns, nature trails, horseback riding, and watersports such as scuba diving, windsurfing, and snorkeling. Free private ferries connect the island at frequent intervals, which is about a half-mile (.8km) offshore, to the main hotel. There’s also a 35-slip marina. The hotel operates a well-run children’s club with activities planned daily. The resort has opened up a water park that’s a hit with the kids (and the young at heart) with water slides, a lazy river, and a large pool. It’s on the harbor level, right by the water, below the pool’s main deck.

Av. Conquistador 1000, Las Croabas, Fajardo, PR 00738. www.elconresort.com. 888/543-1282 or 787/863-1000. Fax 787/863-6500. 918 units. Winter $239–$409 double, $818–$1,347 suites, $778–$1,478 Las Casitas villas; off-season $169–$289 double, $578–$867 suites, $379–$859 Las Casitas villas. 14% resort fee. MAP (breakfast and dinner) packages are available. Children ages 16 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $21; self-parking $16. Amenities: 12 restaurants; 8 bars; casino; nightclub; children’s programs; dive shop; fishing; golf course; health club; 35-slip marina; 7 pools; room service; sailing; spa; 7 Har-Tru tennis courts; smoke-free rooms; rooms for those w/limited mobility. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, minibar.

Moderate

The Fajardo Inn ★ A good base for those visiting El Yunque, this inn is ideal for those who are seeking a location in the east and don’t want to pay the prices charged at El Conquistador (see above). Lying on a hilltop overlooking the port of Fajardo, this parador evokes a Mediterranean villa with its balustrades and grand staircases. The midsize bedrooms, most of which open onto good views, are spotless, and each has a small shower-only bathroom. The inn and its pool are handsomely landscaped. The on-site Star Fish restaurant specializes in Creole and Continental cuisine, especially fresh fish, with indoor and outdoor dining. The Blue Iguana Mexican Grill & Bar is a casual pub with good food. Coco’s Park is a new pool area with such activities as a beach pool, slide, Jacuzzi, tennis, basketball, and miniature golf. It’s separated from the rest of the hotel so as not to disturb the relative tranquillity of the rest of the grounds.

Parcela Beltrán 52, Fajardo, PR 00740. www.fajardoinn.com. 787/860-6000. Fax 787/860-5063. 105 units (shower only). $120–$180 double; $170–$300 suite. 9% resort fee. AE, DISC, MC, V. 15-min. walk east of the center of Fajardo. Amenities: 2 restaurants; 2 bars; pool; room service; snorkeling and diving arranged; 1 room for those w/limited mobility. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer.

Top Caribbean spa: The Golden Door

Perched atop a stunning 300-foot (91m) bluff overlooking the Caribbean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean, the Golden Door ★★ in Las Casitas Village complex at the Wyndham El Conquistador Hotel ( 787/863-1000), is the most sophisticated, well-managed, and comprehensive spa in the Caribbean, and it is one of the finest in the world. One of only three branches of a spa founded in Escondido, California, and today administered by the Wyndham group, it’s devoted to the relaxation and healing of body, soul, and mind. Spa rituals are taken seriously; New Age mysticism is gracefully dispensed within a postmodern setting that’s a cross between a Swiss clinic, a state-of-the-art health club, and a Buddhist monastery. Spa treatments begin at $115. The spa is open daily from 9am to 6pm. American Express, MasterCard, and Visa are accepted.

Ceiba & Naguabo

South of Fajardo is Ceiba, the site of the former Roosevelt Roads Navy base, and the seaside fishing town of Naguabo. Once dominated by the Navy presence, which set sail in 2004, the two towns are now sleepy places, waiting for government plans to transform the former military base into a new “Caribbean Riviera.” Today, you can come here to a nice seafood lunch at the town harbors or visit the south side of El Yunque rainforest.

The local Ports Authority has taken over the former navy airport. Visitors can catch flights to San Juan, Vieques, and Culebra, and other Caribbean islands from here.

Naguabo’s town harbor is fronted by modest seafood restaurants and is a great place to stop for a lunch on a sunny afternoon. I’ve eaten at several of the numerous casual, open-air seafood restaurants, serving tasty, economically priced seafood and other local specialties, and have never been disappointed. The 1917 revival mansion Castillo Villa del Mar, now a National Historic Monument, is at the harbor’s southern end.

Naguabo is also home to a charming guest house, Casa Flamboyant, nestled in the lush south side of El Yunque rainforest, about a half-hour drive along country roads from the town harbor.

Getting Around

The Ceiba International Airport ( 787/534-4101) has replaced the Fajardo and Humacao airports. The Fajardo airport has closed and the Humacao airport is only used on weekends and holidays by local private pilots. It is no longer certified for scheduled passenger or commercial travel. The Ceiba airport hosts several small airlines serving Vieques and Culebra and other destinations. All the small airlines—Vieques Air Link, Isla Nena, Air Flamenco—that served the islands from Fajardo now serve them from Ceiba. To get here from Fajardo, take Expressway 53 south to exit 2 (the Puerto del Rey Marina exit) and pick up Hwy. 3 south. Follow signs to the Ceiba airport until you exit on Tarawa Drive. You’ll pass a guardhouse at the entrance to the former base and proceed along the main road for the airport. Parking runs about $10 daily.

Where to Stay

Casa Flamboyant ★ This stylish Caribbean bed and breakfast ensconced in the south side of the lush El Yunque rainforest is a stunning find in southeast Puerto Rico. Surrounded by lush jungle, just downstream from a gushing waterfall, the rooms have fantastic views of the rainforest and the Caribbean coastline. Old world glamour and sumptuous bedding and furnishings add to the appeal. Three rooms are available in the main house, all with private bathrooms. The private Rainbow Room suite is set apart. All the rooms have gorgeous, private views, either from terraces or balconies, and the pool, courtyards, and other common areas are also spectacular. Hike through tropical forest right from the property, take a swim in a natural pool of a nearby river, or take a plunge in the waterfall just upstream from the B&B. The owner lives here with her dogs and serves an excellent, hearty breakfast.

Off Rte. 191. Mailing address: P.O. Box 175, Naguabo, PR 00718. www.elyunque.com/flamboy.html. 787/559-9800. Fax 787/559-9800. 4 units. $200 double; $250 private suite. AE, MC, V. 15-min. walk east of the center of Fajardo. Amenities: Pool; DVD, print and music library. In room: A/C, flatscreen TV, CD player, DVD player, fridge.

Palmas del Mar

46 miles (74km) SE of San Juan

Halfway down the east coast, south from Fajardo, lies the resort and luxury residential community of Palmas del Mar in the municipality of Humacao. Here you’ll find one of the most action-packed sports programs in the Caribbean, offering golf, tennis, scuba diving, sailing, deep-sea fishing, and horseback riding. Palmas del Mar’s location is one of its greatest assets. The pleasing Caribbean trade winds steadily blow across this section of the island, stabilizing the weather and making Palmas del Mar ideal for many outdoor sports.

But the quickest way to get here from San Juan is to head south to along Hwy. 52 and then east Hwy. 30 to Humacao.

Palmas del Mar sprawls across 2,700 acres (1,092 hectares) of beautifully landscaped coast, a self-contained resort and residential community with several different luxury neighborhoods, ranging from Mediterranean-style villas to modern marina town houses. On the grounds are six pools, two golf courses, 20 tennis courts, a fitness center, and a dive shop. Fishing, bike or car rentals, babysitting, and horseback riding can be arranged.

It’s a town unto itself with a school, hospital, and post office, several restaurants, shops, and other facilities that any town center would have. There’s one existing hotel and two luxury properties under construction. Several of the residences are available for rent through a vacation club or real estate office.

Getting There

You’ll want a rental car to get around anyway (unless you are content with a golf cart and staying within the resort). If you’re driving from San Juan, take Hwy. 52 south to Caguas, then take Hwy. 30 east to Humacao. Follow the signs from there to Palmas del Mar.

A van ride to the San Juan international airport is $90 for the first three passengers, $25 per person for four or more. For reservations, call 787/285-4323. Call the resort if you want to be met at the airport.

The Ceiba International Airport north of Humacao is the closest airport. It’s located at the old Roosevelt Roads Naval Base in Ceiba (see above).

Beaches & Outdoor Activities

Beaches Palmas del Mar Resort has 3 exceptional miles (4.8km) of white-sand beaches (all open to the public). Nonguests must park at the hotel parking ($2 per hour), and there are showers and bathrooms near the beach. The waters here can get rough in winter but are generally calm, and there’s a watersports center and marina. (see “Scuba Diving & Snorkeling,” below).

Fishing Some of the best year-round fishing in the Caribbean is found in the waters just off Palmas del Mar. Capt. Bill Burleson, based in Humacao ( 787/850-7442), operates charters on his customized, 46-foot sport-fisherman, Karolette, which is electronically equipped for successful fishing. Burleson prefers to take fishing groups to Grappler Banks, 18 nautical miles (33m) away, which lie in the migratory paths of wahoo, tuna, and marlin. A maximum of six people are taken out, costing $680 for 4 1/2 hours, $840 for 6 hours, or $1,140 for 8 hours. Burleson also offers snorkeling charter expeditions starting at $640 for up to six people for 4 1/2 hours or $840 for 6 hours.

Golf Few other real-estate developments in the Caribbean devote as much attention and publicity to their golf facilities as the Palmas del Mar Country Club ★★ ( 787/656-3020). Today, both the older course, the Gary Player–designed Palm course, and the newer course, the Reese Jones–designed Flamboyant course, have pars of 72 and layouts of around 2,250 yards (2,057m) each. Crack golfers consider holes 11 to 15 of the Palm course among the toughest 5 successive holes in the Caribbean. The pro shop that services both courses is open daily from 6:30am to 6pm. To play, the course costs $100 to $125 for guests of Villas at Palmas and Four Points by Sheraton, and $105 to $135 for nonguests.

Hiking Palmas del Mar’s land is an attraction in its own right. Here you’ll find more than 6 miles (9.7km) of Caribbean ocean frontage—3 1/2 miles (5.6km) of sandy beach amid rocky cliffs and promontories. Large tracts of the 2,700-acre (1,093-hectare) property have harbored sugar and coconut plantations over the years, and a wet tropical forest preserve with giant ferns, orchids, and hanging vines covers about 70 acres (28 hectares) near the resort’s geographic center.

Scuba Diving & Snorkeling Some of the best dives in Puerto Rico are right off the eastern coast. Two dozen dive sites south of Fajardo are within a 5-mile (8km) radius offshore. See “The Best Scuba Diving” section, in chapter 1.

Set adjacent to a collection of boutiques, bars, and restaurants at the edge of Palmas del Mar’s harbor, Palmas Sea Ventures Dive Center ★, Palmas Del Mar Marina, 110 Harbor Dr. ( 787/863-3483), owns a 44-foot-long dive boat with a 16-foot (4.9m) beam to make it stable in rough seas. They offer both morning and afternoon sessions of two-tank dives (for experienced and certified divers only), priced at $119 each (equipment included). Half-day snorkeling trips, priced at $60 per participant and departing for both morning and afternoon sessions go, whenever there’s demand, to the fauna-rich reefs that encircle Monkey Island, an offshore uninhabited cay. A discover course for beginners is $150.

Tennis The Tennis Center at Palmas del Mar ★★ ( 787/656-3025 or 656-9043), the largest in Puerto Rico, features 13 hard courts, 2 Omni courts, and 4 clay courts, open to resort guests and nonguests. Fees for guests are $15 per hour during the day and $10 extra per court at night. Fees for nonguests are $20 per hour during the day and $10 extra per court at night. Within the resort’s tennis compound is a fitness center, which has the best-equipped gym in the region; it’s open Monday to Friday 8am to 8:30pm, Saturday and Sunday 7am to 7pm.

Where to Eat

Thanks to the kitchens that are built into virtually every unit in Palmas del Mar, many guests prepare at least some of their meals “at home.” This is made relatively feasible thanks to the on-site supermarket at the Palmanova Plaza, which has well-stocked fresh produce and meats, a wide variety of goods, and excellent wine selection.

Bistro Rico FRENCH Everyone enjoys Chef Daniel’s take on informal bistro and cafe fare, with inventive sandwiches (smoked trout, grilled duck breast); bistro classics, such as grilled steak; and such things as an awesome house salad with artichokes and tomatoes, and veal burgers. It’s a good spot for a shrimp cocktail, crab salad, or other delicious appetizer as well. It’s located right by the water next door to Chez Daniel.

Anchor’s Village Marina at Palmas del Mar, Harbour Dr. 110, Ste. 5, Humacao, PR 00791. 787/850-3838. Reservations required. Main courses $28–$39 at dinner; $8.50–$20 at lunch. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat noon–10pm.

Blue Hawaii CHINESE This is the best Chinese restaurant in the region. It combines Polynesian themes (similar to a toned-down Trader Vic’s) with an Americanized version of Chinese food that’s flavorful and well suited to Puerto Rico’s hot, steamy climate. The menu is huge, and includes grilled lobster with garlic-flavored cheese sauce; blackened salmon, and a wonderful beef teriyaki. There’s a superb house version of honey chicken. It’s in the courtyard of the resort’s shopping center, with tables for alfresco dining. There’s also a dining room inside, and a small bar/lounge.

In the Palmanova Shopping Center. 787/285-6644. Reservations recommended. Main courses $15–$50. AE, MC, V. Daily noon–10:30pm.

Chez Daniel ★ FRENCH Faithfully executed classic French cuisine—bouillabaisse, onion soup, lobster, and chicken pies—is served at this restaurant along the Palmas del Mar Marina. Normandy-born Daniel Vasse, the owner, along with his French Catalonian wife, Lucette, maintain a dining room that is the most appealing in Palmas del Mar. There’s grilled asparagus and a delicious tomato and goat cheese tart to start, and the Marseille bouillabaisse, loaded with grouper, snapper, lobster, shrimp, and mussels, unless you want one of the delicious steaks. The owner also opened The Tapas Bar next door, an informal tapas bar, open Wednesday to Sunday noon to 11pm. There, you can pick from a raw bar with ceviche and sushi, but some other highlights include gazpacho, grilled fish, and mango and veal meatballs.

Marina de Palmas del Mar. 787/850-3838. Reservations required. Main courses $28–$39 at dinner; $8–$19 at lunch; $45 Sun brunch (includes 1st drink). AE, DISC, MC, V. Wed–Mon 6:30–10pm, Sun noon–3pm. Closed June.

Where the Locals Go for Soul Food

To escape the confines of the resort for the evening, there are plenty of simple restaurants and seafront shacks serving up fresh and tasty seafood and comida criolla in atmospheric settings on the east coast. Several such restaurants can be found in the Punta Santiago sector just off Hwy. 3. Paradise Seafood, off Hwy. 3, on Calle Isidro Andreu, the main road in Punta Santiago Humacao ( 787/852-1180), has been serving such food for 8 decades in an attractive, no-frills setting. Memorable renditions of mofongo stuffed with seafood and hearty seafood stews, grilled fresh fish, baked lobster, and a wide variety of fish and shellfish served in tasty garlic, Creole, and citrus sauces.

Where to Stay

Some of the nicest lodging options are the privately owned villas and vacation homes spread throughout the several luxury communities that comprise Palmas del Mar. Prices start as low as $175 nightly, and range all the way up to $1,000. Weekly rates range from $1,375 to $5,000, with a typical resort and cleaning fee of $100. The studios and villas at Villas at Palmas del Mar, 295 Palmas Inn Way, Ste. 6, Carretera 3, Km 86.4, Candelero, Humacao, PR 00791 ( 787/850-0042; fax 787/852-0927), have long been favorites of vacationers with their resort-level accommodations. But other rentals are available at Rentals in the Marbella Club, Los Lagos, Aquabella, and several other communities, and can be arranged through the Palmas del Mar Properties (www.palmasdelmar.com; 800/285-2700).

Wyndham Garden Palmas Del Mar ★ A plethora of on-site activities may keep you from ever leaving the premises: championship golf courses, a country club, a casino and pool bar, along with an infinity pool, are just some of the offerings. Furnishings are tasteful and exceedingly comfortable, typical of Sheraton’s deluxe hotels. Available extras include private balconies, luxury bathrooms, and work desks. The hotel also offers business services for commercial travelers, plus a special pool for kids. The hotel restaurant offers a varied international menu (some dine here every night), and you’ll also find a wine and cigar bar. Location is its real draw—it’s right in the middle of Palmas del Mar, a world unto itself on the island’s east coast.

Candelero Dr. 170, Humacao, PR 00791. www.starwoodhotels.com. 787/850-6000. Fax 787/850-6001. 107 units. Year-round $155–$275 double; winter $275–$295 suite, off-season $270 suite. 14% resort fee.. AE, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $15; self-parking $12. Amenities: Restaurant; 2 bars; casino; fitness center; golf; kids’ pool; outdoor pool; room service; scuba diving; tennis; smoke-free rooms; rooms for those w/limited mobility. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer.

The Southeast

More and more visitors are discovering the bewitching allure of Puerto Rico’s wild and wooly southeast coast, with deep sand beaches, powerful waves, and cliffs cutting across the landscape straight down to the coast. There are still empty beaches with lighthouses, but now there are more restaurants and lodging options than just a few years ago.

In Yabucoa, you can also catch the start of the Panoramic Route, a tangle of narrow country roads crisscrossing Puerto Rico’s mountainous interior from the east to west coasts (see chapter 4). The coastal Rte. 901 cuts along steep oceanfront cliffs and descends into such sleepy coastal villages as Maunabo and Patillas. Along the way is El Horizonte, where the food is as satisfying as the views. At Punta Tuna, along this road in town, there is a beautiful lighthouse built in 1892 and a wide public beach beside it with restaurants, bathroom facilities, and an outdoor picnic area. A better place to go swimming is Playa Emajaguas, a rare, wide, sandy beach in the area. It does not get as crowded as Playa Lucía, farther down the road, right next door to a larger hotel.

Beyond Maunabo, the main coastal road merges with Hwy. 3 as it passes through the pretty town of Patillas, which has one of the nicest resorts in the area. Arroyo has the fine Centro Vacacional Punta Guiliarte, a National Parks Company public beach and vacation center.

Off Rte. 3, Rte. 901 climbs steep oceanfront cliffs, cutting back and forth in switchbacks that afford outstanding views of the Caribbean and the islands in the distance. The road again descends into Maunabo, a sleepy coastal village that, despite its charms, remains off the beaten path for most visitors to Puerto Rico. At Punta Tuna, there is a beautiful lighthouse built in 1892 and a nice public beach beside it, with restaurants, bathroom facilities, and an outdoor picnic area. The wide sand beach here is among the nicest in the region. Elsewhere in town, the beaches are mostly deserted, used more by fishermen than beachgoers. The sand is heavier, darker, and deeper than elsewhere in Puerto Rico, and the currents can be strong. The beaches, protected by palm trees and bluffs, are beautiful, however.

Where to Stay & Eat

Moderate

Caribe Playa Resort ★ This rustic beachfront resort has a bit of style and is beautifully situated among the swaying palm trees on an isolated, sandy beach that calls you to linger and relax on it. There’s a free-form pool and terrace area, and you can lounge on a chair along the beach or in a hammock strung from the trees. The on-site restaurant serves pretty good local and international food from breakfast through dinner. Meals are served on a terrace overlooking the ocean. Surrounded by lush mountainsides, this is truly an isolated getaway, yet it’s just an hour from San Juan. The snorkeling is great just offshore. I’ve always found the accommodations clean, though some rooms are so well decorated they feel boutique-y, while others feel dated and scream for a makeover. All are beachfront with balcony or terrace view, so no room is bad. A great property if you want to relax by the beach and not do much of anything. There is on-site massage therapy ($35 for 30 min.; $55 for an hour). The resort also has plenty of beach towels, hammocks, and beach chairs.

Hwy. 3, Km 112.1, Patillas, PR 00767. 787/839-7717. www.caribeplaya.com. 34 units (shower only). $130–$150 double. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; pool. In room: A/C, TV, fridge.

El Nuevo Horizonte PUERTO RICAN/SEAFOOD With the best view in southeast Puerto Rico and great food, this restaurant in the coastal hills of Yabucoa is probably our favorite of the typical Puerto Rican eateries on the island. Seafood is the star here. The house special is the paella rey, or king paella, prepared to moist perfection and loaded with lobster, clams, shrimp, and mussels. The stuffed mofongo with seafood is among the island’s best, and the restaurant has a great stuffed lobster dish as well. While the restaurant is simple, the view is outstanding. The dining room is perched on a cliff overlooking the Caribbean, and you can see clear out to Vieques and the other islands. The restaurant has an outdoor deck that serves drinks and food in a more informal environment with the same beautiful view.

Rte. 901, Km. 8.8, Yabucoa. 787/893-5492. Main courses $12–$45. AE, MC, V. Thurs–Sat 11am–10pm; Sun 11am–8pm.

Hotel Parador Palmas de Lucía ★ In the southeastern corner of Puerto Rico, where accommodations are scarce, this parador is a knockout discovery. It lies at the eastern end of Ruta Panorámica, a network of scenic, winding roads along which you can take in some of the finest views in the Caribbean before coming to rest at Palmas de Luca, just steps from the pleasant sands of Playa Lucía. This is one of the newest hotels in eastern Puerto Rico, filling a vast gap in accommodations in this remote part of the island. The López family is your host, and their complex combines colonial styling with tropical decoration. Each midsize bedroom is well furnished and has a poolview balcony and an efficiently organized, tiled, shower-only bathroom. The López family, under its Tropical Inns Puerto Rico company, also runs two nearby small hotels we also recommend, Parador Costa del Marin Yabucoa and Mauna Caribe in nearby Maunabo. All are clean, well managed, and surprisingly affordable for what you get.

Palmas de Lucía, rtes. 901 and 9911, Camino Nuevo, Yabucoa, PR 00767. www.palmasdelucia.com. 787/893-4423. Fax 787/893-0291. 34 units (shower only). $102 double. AE, MC, V, DISC. From Humacao, take Rte. 53 south to Yabucoa, to the end of the hwy., where you connect with Rte. 901 to Maunabo. After a 2-min. drive, turn left at the signposted Carretera 9911, which leads to Playa Lucía. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; basketball court; pool. In room: A/C, TV.