Chapter 10: Vieques & Culebra

Just a short boat or airplane ride away are Vieques and Culebra, the two island municipalities that round out the Puerto Rico archipelago. Their pristine white-sand beaches, breathtaking coastal views, and lush hillsides have earned these two small jewels bordered by the Atlantic their status as the Spanish Virgin Islands. Still blissfully underdeveloped (without a fast-food restaurant or traffic light between them), Vieques and Culebra have been able to avoid the hustle and bustle of the main island, making them a haven for those looking to get away from it all.

Beaches Vieques is visited mainly for its 40-odd white-sand beaches, which provide the perfect backdrop for every kind of watersports activity under the sun. Sun Bay, a government-run, panoramic crescent of sand, is the beach to visit if you have only 1 day to spend on the island.

Culebra’s draw is undoubtedly its horseshoe-shaped Flamenco Beach, with silky white sand and sapphire waters that make it one of the most photographed and sought-after beaches in the Caribbean. Zoni Beach, on the island’s northeastern edge, is a snorkeler’s paradise for its beautiful reefs just offshore.

Things to Do Vieques, the larger of the two islands, offers more tourist facilities and options to eat, stay, and play than its smaller sister Culebra. Vieques’s two main towns, Isabel Segunda on the northern shore and Esperanza on the south, are where most of the action is. The Fort Conde de Mirasol Museum and the Punta Mula lighthouse on the north are not only worth visiting for their historic value, but for the breathtaking views they offer as well.

Culebra, on the other hand, has a more laid-back attitude, but compensates for what may seem like a lack of excitement with the spectacular quality of its turquoise beaches. Dewey, Culebra’s only town, is where you may head for a fresh seafood meal or cap off a day of taking in the sun with a cocktail.

Eating & Drinking Just because Vieques and Culebra are surrounded by water doesn’t mean eating is limited to seafood, which by the way, is as fresh as it can get. To the delight of visiting foodies, the islands have quickly become a magnet for some of the tastiest cuisines, from criollo to fusion, at mostly reasonable prices. In Vieques, the Next Course and El Quenepo are favorites, while in Culebra, Mamacita’s and Susie’s are the go-to places for a good meal and drink.

Nature Despite being small, Vieques and Culebra both host expansive nature reserves that are open to the public. The Vieques National Wildlife Refuge comprises 15,500 acres of mostly beachfront property that is home to a variety of tropical vegetation and the habitat of some endangered species such as the sea turtle, the manatee, and the brown pelican. Another of Vieques’ major attractions is Mosquito Bay, also called Phosphorescent Bay, which on cloudy or moonless nights takes on a unique glow created by tiny bioluminescent creatures when they swim about in their natural habitat.

In Culebra, the Culebra Wildlife Refuge is one of the most important turtle-nesting sites in the Caribbean, and it also houses large seabird colonies, notably terns and boobies.

Vieques ★

41 miles (66km) E of San Juan, 7 miles (11km) SE of Fajardo

Vieques & Culebra

About 7 miles (11km) east of the big island of Puerto Rico lies Vieques (Bee-ay-kase), an island about twice as large as Manhattan, with about 10,000 inhabitants and some 40 palm-lined white-sand beaches.

From World War II until 2004, about two-thirds of the 21-mile-long (34km) island was controlled by U.S. military forces, both its western and eastern ends. In the west, there was a base and munitions storage facility. In the east, vast swaths of the wilderness and pasture land were leased for grazing to local cattle farmers, which created a buffer zone between the civilian population and the war games and bombing range farther out to the east.

Unlike the U.S. military, the Spanish conquistadores didn’t think much of Vieques. They came here in the 16th century but didn’t stay long, reporting that the island and neighboring bits of land held no gold and were, therefore, las islas inútiles (the useless islands). The name Vieques comes from the native Amerindian word bieques, meaning “small island.”

The Spaniards later changed their minds and founded the main town, Isabel Segunda, on the northern shore. Construction on the last Spanish fort built in the New World began here around 1843, during the reign of Queen Isabella II, for whom the town was named. The fort, never completed, is not of any special interest. The island’s fishermen and farmers conduct much of their business here. The Punta Mula lighthouse, north of Isabel Segunda, provides panoramic views of the land and sea.

On the south coast, Esperanza, once a center for the island’s sugar-cane industry and now a pretty little fishing village, lies near Sun Bay (Sombe) public beach ★. Sun Bay, a government-run, panoramic crescent of sand, is the beach to visit if you have only 1 day to spend on the island. It’s a beautiful beach that tumbles endlessly along a graceful arc, blessed by palm trees and patches of scrub forest. The ruins of the Playa Grande sugar plantation, once the center of life in Vieques, lie on former Navy lands near the southwest coast. Playa Grande’s former boulevard, once lined with stylish wooden mansions, continued to cut a swath through the dense dry tropical forest as a kind of civilized stronghold during the 6 decades of navy occupation. Today you can visit the ruins, which have undergone some restoration work since the navy left. Nearby Playa Grande beach is a long, palm lined, white sand beach, but the sea here can be rough and unpredictable, with killer rip tides.

With 40 beaches, all sorts of watersports adventures are possible. The island’s varied terrain also offers plenty of land adventures. Kicking back, however, continues to be the number-one pastime in Vieques.

Essentials

Getting There Unless you’re on a budget, skip the ferry and fly to Vieques, especially if your time is limited. The extra money you’ll spend will buy you another day on one of its beautiful beaches, which makes it worth it to fly. Flights to Vieques leave from Isla Grande Airport near the heart of San Juan as well as the main Luis Muñoz Marín International Airport near Isla Verde. Your best hassle-free option is Isla Grande. Vieques Air Link (www.viequesairlink.com; 888/901-9247 or 787/741-8331) has the most flights and among the best prices. It operates six flights from the smaller and more convenient Isla Grande Airport and three daily flights from LMM International. The VAL flight from Isla Grande, about $132 round-trip, is the most reliable and convenient travel option to Vieques. It’s about half the rate from LMM International, which is $220. Seaborne Airlines (www.seaborneairlines.com; 877/772-1005 or 787/292-6656) began service to coincide with the opening of the W Vieques Retreat & Spa in March 2010. Round-trip from San Juan’s Isla Grande Airport is $120. Air Flamenco (www.airflamenco.net; 787/724-1818, 724-1105, or 721-0332) is another option, with regular daily flights and charter service from Isla Grande for $126, including tax. Cape Air (www.capeair.com; 800/352-0714) is the newest option offering daily round-trip flights from LMM International to Vieques. Passengers should go online to check for rates and flight availability.

The Puerto Rico Port Authority operates two ferries a day to Vieques from the eastern port of Fajardo; the trip takes about an hour. The round-trip fare is $4.50 for adults, $2 for children. Tickets for the morning ferry that leaves Saturday and Sunday sell out quickly, so you should be in line at the ticket window in Fajardo before 8am (it opens at 6:30am) to be certain of a seat on the 9am boat. Otherwise, you’ll have to wait until the 3pm ferry if it’s a weekend, or the 1pm on weekdays. For more information about these sea links, call 800/981-2005, 787/863-0705 (Fajardo), or 741-4761 (Vieques). Ferries leave Fajardo for Vieques at 9:30am and 1, 4:30, and 8pm during the week; 9am, and 3 and 6pm on weekends and holidays. They return from Vieques to Fajardo at 6:30 and 11am, and 3 and 6pm weekdays; and at 6:30am and 1 and 4:30pm on weekends and holidays.

Getting Around Public cabs or vans called públicos transport people around the island. To fully experience Vieques, however, you should rent a jeep. The mountainous interior, more than a dozen beaches, and the nature reserves on former military bases absolutely require it. Publicos are economical, however, and can be used to and from the airport and ferry on the days you arrive and leave Vieques if you plan to veg at the hotel pool and beach those days, and you can cut down on car expenses.

Most island rental companies offer economic Jeep Wranglers, Trackers, and similar vehicles, and prices generally range from $45 to $85 daily; but you can find even better deals, if you don’t mind a beat up vehicle (and if it’s just a Tracker to get you to the beach, you may not) or you rent for a week or longer. Maritza Car Rentals ( 787/741-0078) is the market leader, and Marcos Car Rental ( 787/741-1388) is usually the best deal in town. Marcos is not perfect but does bend over backwards to rectify errors. Vieques Car Rental ( 787/741-1037 or 435-1323) and Martineau Car Rental ( 787/741-0087) are good bets, as are Acevedo’s ( 787/741-4380) and Chepito’s ( 787/741-8691). Try to arrange a pickup at the airport; if the rental agency won’t do it, your hotel probably will.

Nature Reserve

The Vieques National Wildlife Refuge ★★★ is comprised of 15,500 acres (6,273 hectares)—much of it awesome beachfront property—relinquished by the U.S. Navy to the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service when the navy abandoned its Vieques training ground in 2003. This is now the largest landmass of its kind in the Caribbean. Refuge lands lie on both the eastern and western ends of Vieques. In 2001, 3,100 acres (1,255 hectares) on the western end were already turned over to the refuge. These tracts of virgin landscape contain several ecologically distinct habitats, including the island’s best white-sand beaches along with upland forests and mangrove wetlands, the latter the habitat of some endangered species such as the sea turtle, the manatee, and the brown pelican. Binocular-bearing bird-watchers also flock to the site. The coastal area of the refuge is characterized by coral reef and sea-grass beds, and there are scores of beautiful beaches. The refuge is open to the public and also contains a Visitor Center at Vieques Office Park, Rd. 200, Km 0.4 ( 787/741-2138). The refuge is open 7 days a week during daylight hours.

Aficionados of Vieques praise the island for its wide profusion of sandy beaches. Since the pullout of the U.S. Navy, some of the sites that were formerly off-limits have been made accessible to hikers, cyclists, bird-watchers, beachcombers, and other members of the public. There are 40 beaches on this small island—that’s a whole lot of endless afternoons of exploring.

Beaches

Along the eastern end, the best beaches are Red Beach (Bahia Corcha), Blue Beach (Bahia de la Chiva), and Playa Plata. To reach these, take the tarmac-covered road that juts eastward from a point near the southern third of Rte. 997. Entrance to this part of the island, formerly occupied by the Navy, will be identified as Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre de Vieques, with warnings near its entrance that camping and littering are not allowed. Drive for about a mile (1.6km) along this road, turning right at the sign pointing to Red Beach (Bahia Corcha). En route, you’ll have one of the few opportunities in the world to gun your rented car along the battered tarmac of what used to be a landing strip (a very long one). Pretend, if you like, however briefly, that you’re on a test track for the Indianapolis 500, naturally exercising all due caution. The Fish & Wildlife Service has been doing improvement work at many of the beaches within the reserve and periodically closes off public access while work is ongoing.

The crescent-shaped Red Beach, with wide-open views of the ocean, and Blue Beach, protected by mangroves and scrub trees, are two of the more beautiful east-end beaches. There are signs, within the park, to minor beaches Playa Caracas, Caya Melones, and even Playuela, but the access roads are blocked off by the Park Service.

Myriad coves, such as Playa Chiva, pepper the coastline between Blue Beach and the end of the line, Playa Plata, which is covered with sea grapes, scrub trees, and palmettos.

Also near the border of the former eastern navy holdings is Sun Bay Beach, or Balneario Público Sun Bay. Its entrance lies off the southern stretch of Rte. 997. You’ll recognize it by a metal sign. Just beyond, you’ll see a park dotted with trees, an absurdly large number of parking spaces (which no one uses), and a formal entryway to the park, which virtually everybody ignores. Locals, as a means of getting closer to the water and the sands, drive along the access road stretching to the left. It parallels a 3⁄4-mile (1.2km) stretch of tree-dotted beachfront, and they park wherever they find a spot that appeals to them. If you continue to drive past the very last parking spot along Sun Bay Beach, a rutted and winding and very hilly road will lead, after a right-hand fork, to Media Luna Beach and Navio Beach, two beautiful and isolated beaches, perfect for snorkeling and evening barbecues. A left-hand fork leads to the muddy and rutted parking lot that services Mosquito Bay (or Phosphorescent Bay). Right beside Esperanza village is Playa Esperanza, which is a great place for snorkeling.

Take a drive to the west end of the island to visit more beaches. The former Navy base and ammunition storage post has two fine beaches: Green Beach, in the northwest corner of the island beside a nature reserve, which is the best spot for swimming and snorkeling. On the south coast, another pretty beach lies beside the ruins of the Playa Grande sugar plantation. You’ll have to pass the eerie navy radar facility, a field of antennas, to get there, and the surf is generally rougher here, and more exposed to open ocean and sharks. You are better off swimming at Green Beach.

The beaches are beautiful, but the western end is more physically haunted by the island’s military past. Most of the eastern end remains off limits to people, as decades of bombardment from aircraft and offshore carriers have left it littered with unexploded ordnance.

Adventure Tours

For a small island, Vieques offers big opportunities for diving, snorkeling, sailing, and a huge array of other watersports. Natural conditions are incredible, and prices remain a bargain. More and more operators are popping up each year, which should only improve the offerings and the value for customers. Blue Caribe Kayaks, Calle Flamboyan 149 (El Malecón; 787/741-2522), is one of the most experienced and comprehensive watersports outfits on Vieques, with kayaking, snorkeling, scuba-diving, fishing, or swimming in the nighttime waters of Vieques’s bioluminescent bays. They’ve been doing it for more than a decade. Kayak rentals are $15 an hour, $25 for a half-day, and $45 for a full day. Snorkeling equipment (fins, mask, and snorkel) rent for $10 daily. Guided snorkeling tours by kayak transport you for $35 through gin-clear waters, with stunning coral and brilliantly colored tropical fish, en route to an offshore cay with great beaches. Tours last from around 3pm to sundown daily, as well as nighttime trips to the local bio bay ($30 per person), one of the world’s best bioluminescent bays.

If you want to go diving, the Vieques veteran is Nan-Sea Charters, Calle Flamboyan 149, Vieques ( 787/741-2390), which brings an insider’s knowledge to your dive experience.

Abe’s Snorkeling & Bio-Bay Tours (www.abessnorkeling.com; 787/741-2134) also offers competitive rates, hands-on inspection of marine critters, and some amusing storytelling, at least if you’re with Abe. The company offers several tours lasting between 2 and 4 hours, ranging in price from $35 to $80. Children 4 and under go for free, while older kids up to 11 years old pay half-price for the expeditions. Ask about full-day island tours.

Black Beard Sports, Calle Muñoz Rivera 101, Isabela Segunda, Vieques (www.blackbeardsports.com; 787/741-1892), is a PADI dive center offering introductory dive trips and half-day open-water dives with equipment included for $150. If you have your gear, the open-water dive is $110. They also have class programs ranging from $120 to $400, and varying in skill level and duration. Its downtown location in a restored Puerto Rican casita has a great sporting goods and sportswear shop. They rent dive equipment, snorkels and fins, mountain bikes, kayaks, fishing gear and other stuff, even tents.

A well-rehearsed outfit that’s good at leading newcomers into the island’s most savage landscapes is Vieques Adventure Company (www.bikevieques.com; 787/692-9162). Gary Lowe and members of his staff lead mountain bikers on half-day ($95 per person) tours of obscure trails that are noteworthy for their panoramas and technical difficulties. Use of a mountain bike, usually an aluminum-framed, 28-speed, state-of-the-art model, is included in the price. You can rent one of these bikes, without the services of a trail guide, for $25 per day. The company also rents sea kayaks ($45 daily). Anglers will want to try a kayak fly-fishing tour at a price of $150 for a truly unique experience.

Natural Attraction

One of the major attractions on the island is Mosquito Bay ★, also called Phosphorescent Bay, with its glowing waters produced by tiny bioluminescent organisms. These organisms dart away from boats, leaving eerie blue-white trails of phosphorescence. The Vieques Times wrote: “By any name, the bay can be a magical, psychedelic experience, and few places in the world can even come close to the intensity of concentration of the dinoflagellates called pyrodiniums (whirling fire). They are tiny (1⁄500-in./.13cm) swimming creatures that light up like fireflies when disturbed, but nowhere are there so many fireflies. Here a gallon of bay water may contain almost three-quarters of a million.” The ideal time to tour is on a cloudy, moonless night. If the moon is shining on a cloudless night, you can save your money, as you’ll see almost nothing. Some boats go, full moon or not. While it is no longer possible to swim in these glowing waters, boat operators usually stop in the middle of the bay to let visitors dip their feet to activate the organisms.

Island Adventures ( 787/741-0720) operates trips in Phosphorescent Bay aboard Luminosa. These trips are not offered around the time of the full moon. The charge is $40, and most jaunts last about 2 hours. Similar tours are also offered on kayaks that cost $30, offered by both Blue Caribe Kayak ( 787/741-2522), and Abe’s Snorkeling & Bio-Bay Tours (www.abessnorkeling.com; 787/741-2134).

Historic Site

Fort Conde de Mirasol Museum, Barriada Fuerte at Magnolia 471 ( 787/741-1717), is the major man-made attraction on the island. In the 1840s, Count Mirasol convinced the Spanish government to build a defensive fortress here. Today the carefully restored fort houses a museum of art and history celebrating the story of Vieques. There are Indian relics, displays of the Spanish conquest, and old flags of the Danes, British, and French. The French sugar-cane planters and their African slaves are depicted, and there’s even a bust of the great liberator Simón Bolivar, who once visited Puerto Rico. A unique collection of maps shows how the world’s cartographers envisioned Vieques. The museum and fort are open Wednesday through Friday, 9am to 5pm, Saturday and Sunday 8:30am to 4pm. Admission is $3, or free for ages 11 and younger.

Where to Eat

Expensive

Carambola ★★ INTERNATIONAL Set in the lovely premises of the Inn on the Blue Horizon (see “Where to Stay,” above), this is one of the best spots to eat on Vieques. Also on-site is a bar that loyalists declare one of their favorites in the world, so consider starting your evening with a drink or two in the octagonal Blue Moon Bar. Meals are served within the inn’s main building or beneath an awning on a seafront terrace lined with plants. I love the pork loin in rum chutney and the daily stuffed mofongo special. Expect a crowd of fashion-industry folk, temporarily absent from New York and Los Angeles, and local residents, all mixing in ways that are gregarious, stylish, and usually a lot of fun. There is also now a casual eatery on a cliffside deck run by the kitchen team.

In the Inn on the Blue Horizon, Rte. 996, Km 4.3 (1 mile/1.6km west of Esperanza). 787/741-3318. Reservations required. Main courses $24–$33. MC, V. Daily 8–10:30pm.

El Quenepo CONTINENTAL This is the oldest restaurant in Esperanza, and the service you’ll get here is among the most attentive on the island, so it’s worth a splurge one night, even if the place feels as if it were dropped here from Cape Cod. In general, the food is tasty; the seared tuna, pumpkin gnocchi, and lava rock churrasco are excellent, and the conch fritters and duck appetizer are a great way to get things going. End it all with some pecan pie, vanilla cheesecake, or chocolate mousse.

Calle Flamboyan 148, Barrio Esperanza. 787/741-1215. Reservations recommended. Dinner $9–$33. MC, V. Dec-May Tues–Sun 5:30pm–10pm. June-Sept Wed–Sun 5:30pm–9:30pm.

miX on the Beach ★★ FRENCH CARIBBEAN Alain Ducasse’s signature restaurant at the new W Vieques Retreat & Spa takes on gourmet beach food and results in a short but elegant and compelling menu that explores Latino-Caribbean flavors from a classic French perspective. The chef’s famed affection for the Mediterranean is evident in dishes like the artisanal pasta appetizer (with crushed zucchini and tomato marmalade) and halibut with eggplant caviar in a lemon garlic sauce; but the pork entrée takes its inspiration from the mountain towns of Puerto Rico, while the barramundi platter in a mango honeydew sauce cannot taste more Caribbean. Ducasse’s signature dish—the Cookpot—tenderly melds together the island’s vegetables. A breakfast menu offers straightforward but satisfying plates of French toast, egg platters, bagels and lox, and more. Cocktails are top notch and usually include several types of rum.

In the W Vieques Retreat & Spa, Rte. 200, Km 3.2, Vieques, PR 00765. www.whotels.com/Vieques. 787/741-4100. Reservations recommended. Breakfast $6–$22; dinner $22–39. AE, MC, V. Daily 7:30am–11am and 6–10pm.

Next Course ★★ CARIBBEAN This is one of the newest additions to the Vieques food scene, tucked away just outside Esperanza—if you drive too fast, you may just miss it. The restaurant’s beautiful setting and relaxed atmosphere has made it a popular spot for locals and tourists alike who go for the fresh seafood, including lobster, crab, scallops and the sesame encrusted tuna steaks, as well as its variety of meat dishes. The mixed drinks menu lists several popular cocktails, including the signature “Pain Killer,” which has become a favorite among patrons. The restaurant is open for dinner only, and reservations are highly recommended because although it is on the pricey side, it can get quite busy. That’s especially true if you’re looking to dine “under the stars” at one of the tables on the outside patio.

Rte. 201, Km 3.2 787/741-10288. Reservations recommended. Main courses $22–$30. D, MC, V. Fri–Wed 5:30–10pm.

Veritas ★ INTERNATIONAL Set in the cool and breezy highlands of Vieques, on a verdant hillside with sweeping views of the island’s interior, this restaurant is perched within a gracefully proportioned open-sided building that gives the impression of something midway between a simplified gazebo and a tree house. Its bar offers great happy hour specials on Tuesday nights that draw a crowd. The restaurant is under new ownership and its menu has been made over to reflect an eclectic mix of appetizers and entrees that includes garlic basil gorgonzola bread, build-your-own burgers, and Caribbean lobster mac and cheese. The restaurant also prepares lunch picnic baskets, which it will drop off wherever you’re staying, offering a broad selection of appetizers, salads, wraps, and even side dishes to enjoy at the beach or on your day’s adventure. Fridays are prime-rib nights, and gourmet pizza is served from 4pm to 7pm Saturdays.

In the Crow’s Nest hotel, Rte. 201, Km 1.6, Barrio Florida. www.veritasvqs.com. 787/741-0011. Reservations recommended. Appetizers $6–$10; main courses $17–$24. MC, V. Tues–Sun 5–10:30pm.

Moderate

Chez Shack ★ INTERNATIONAL Chez Shack is a funky, brightly painted, rustic, wooden spot, with a small bar, no frills dining room, and great flavor. Hugh Duffy, who has been operating such places in the Caribbean since Mama Cass waitressed at his Love Shack in St. Thomas, is often on hand spinning a tale. The place is open only on Thursday to Monday, for barbeque night, so plan ahead to be there for the experience. Menu items include tried-and-true favorites, many of which attract repeat diners who memorized the menu long ago. Examples include baked crab, seafood cocktail, steaks, fish filets, and barbecued ribs. The wooden shack is on the edge of a beautiful country road that runs through the island’s central hills and the tropical forest.

Hwy 995, Km 1.8 (NW of Esperanza; Airport Rd.). 787/741-2175. Reservations recommended. Main courses $18–$22. MC, V. Dec–Apr Thurs–Mon 6pm–10pm.

Taverna ★ MEDITERANNEAN The spirit of the Mediterranean runs through this restaurant that is open just for dinner, offering creative Italian classics, including pasta, brick-oven pizza, and some fish specials. The chicken Athena is sautéed with tomatoes, kalamata olives, and feta cheese; and the clams linguini is served with pancetta, garlic, and crushed red peppers. The pastas and pizza are tasty.

Calle Carlos Lebrum 453, right off the plaza Isabel Segunda. 787/741-7760. Reservations recommended for dinner. Main courses $10–$30. AE, MC, V. Mon–Fri 5:30–9pm.

Trade Winds Restaurant STEAK/SEAFOOD This restaurant beside the oceanfront esplanade in the fishing village of Esperanza serves excellent breakfasts in a great setting overlooking the sea. Dinners are notoriously inconsistent. Although the bar is a great place for an early evening drink along the harbor, you are better off having dinner elsewhere. If you do have dinner, stick to the lobster and fresh fish specials; everything else, at best, is just okay. For years, however, this has been the best place to have breakfast on the Esperanza strip. There are delicious omelets and eggs Benedict, and there’s no better spot to read the morning papers.

In Trade Winds Guesthouse, Calle Flamboyan, Barrio Esperanza. 787/741-8666. Reservations recommended. Breakfast $4.50–$13; main courses $13–$28. AE, MC, V. Thurs–Mon 8am–2pm; daily 5:30–9:30pm.

Inexpensive

Bananas Restaurant INTERNATIONAL A reliable casual restaurant that serves tasty burgers, salads, steaks, and other entrees. The simple wood bar and dining room fill a large room that opens up to Esperanza’s pretty harbor and rows of tropical plants. Bar food and cold drinks sums up the offerings here, but everything is quite nicely done, and the employees are friendly and informative. The menu includes Caesar salads, grilled or jerk-marinated chicken; grilled pork chops; grilled fish; steaks; baby back ribs; pizzas; and sandwiches that include BLTs, burgers, and chicken-breast sandwiches. Service is not speedy. But, hey, you’re in Vieques, who cares?

Calle Flamboyan (El Malecón), in Esperanza. 787/741-8700. Reservations not necessary. Salads and sandwiches $5–$11; main courses $15–$17. MC, V. Daily 11am–10pm (kitchen). Bar is open later.

El Patio Restaurant & Bieke’s Bistro ★ PUERTO RICAN This simple and completely unpretentious restaurant serves an impressive number of locals and visitors 6 days a week from breakfast through dinner, often with lots of banter about island personalities and politics. The home-cooked meals are flavorful and filling, and the place intensely local and friendly. Breakfasts have such basics as oatmeal and ham and eggs, and there are several daily specials for lunch and dinner. There are such basic items as steak and chicken, and Puerto Rican classics such as breaded chicken and rice and beans (which they rightfully brag are the best in town). Steer towards the seafood, such as fresh grouper in sweet tomato sauce, the asopao de mariscos (seafood stew with fresh fish), marinated octopus, or conch salad.

Calle Antonio G. Mellado 340 (Rte. 200, in Isabel Segunda). 787/741-6381. Reservations not accepted. Breakfast platters $1.50–$6; main courses $6–$25. AE, MC, V. Mon–Sat 7am–10pm.

El Yate Bar & Restaurant ★ PUERTO RICAN Some of the best criollo food on the island is just a few feet away from the dock on Isabel Segunda, at this small, family-owned restaurant. Its bright orange walls are hard to miss if you’re coming on the ferry; and, if you happen to catch the last trip from Fajardo, this is the place to get a late-night bite. The menu features lunch and dinner options such as fresh fried grouper and yellow-tailed fish to pork chops and cubed steak. All of the entrees come with a small salad and a side dish of either rice and beans, tostones, sweet plantains, or French fries. The dessert menu, while small, features a towering homemade coconut cheesecake that’s the perfect ending to a satisfying meal. The bar is open until midnight daily.

Calle Rieckehoff (next to the Ferry Dock, in Isabel Segunda). No reservations required. Appetizers $5–$9; sandwiches $9–$12; main courses $8–$25. Cash only. Daily 8am–10pm. Bar closes at midnight.

Shopping

Exciting new shopping opportunities on Vieques have mushroomed in recent years in the wake of the navy exit and the ensuing tourist influx. In general, the consumer products stores and the tourist and souvenir shops in both Isabel Segunda and Esperanza have gotten more sophisticated. For the first time in years, the clothing stores in Isabel Segunda and Esperanza are actually in fashion. Another place where the upgrade trend is also evident is in the quality of food and beverage offerings at grocery and convenience stores (which mirrors improvement in restaurant quality). Foodies might want to pick up some of the local hot sauce, Coqui Fire Sauce (www.coquifire.com), which is available throughout the island in mango garlic, papaya lime, and Komodo dragon varieties. When it comes to picking up unique gifts and trendy clothing, then you may want to swing by the Funky Beehive ( 787/741-3192), a boutique on the corner of Muñoz Rivera and Antonio G. Mellado streets that features a hodge-podge of candles, jewelry, kitchen gadgets, and island wear.

Art Galleries

Nowhere is the burst of creativity greater than in the growth of island art galleries. A number of international artists have settled in Vieques, and together with the sizeable number of fine island artists, there is a particularly vibrant arts community. Because the island is such an obvious influence on the artists, their work tends to reflect the beauty of Vieques. The Vieques pioneer Siddhia Hutchinson is still going strong. The Siddhia Hutchinson Fine Art Studio & Gallery, Calle 3, A15, Isabel Segunda ( 787/741-8780), located between the lighthouse and the ferry dock, offers the owner’s prints of local seascapes and landscapes, native flowers, fish, and birds for sale. Ileana Jové’s Glass Art, outside Isabel Segunda, Rte. 997, Km 1.5 ( 787/741-4694), offers gorgeous jewelry and other mosaic works. Ileana Jové herself is now a talented metal sculptress. She rents two studios on her secluded property. It’s a beautiful setting housing her studio and gallery. Caribbean Walk Gallery, Calle Antonio Mellado 357, Isabel Segunda ( 787/741-7770), sells beautiful local crafts, paintings, and sculptures made by more than 30 local artists. It also has some of the island works of talented landscape painter Ellie Harold, which are some of the most evocative of their kind of Vieques.

Vieques Nightlife

This is still a relatively quiet place, but there are more places to party and the parties are getting more festive every year. In general, there is still no place better than the Esperanza malecón on a Friday night, drinking cheap, cold beer and listening to some great music and conversation.

Bar Plaza The double doors are left wide open in this dusty bar with high ceilings and slowly whirring fans, which helps the clientele cool off with the icy cold beers. You expect Hemingway to stumble out off this 1940s-era Spanish Caribbean tavern, which has thick cement walls that also help cool things down. With posters advertising defunct products, the place feels frozen in time, like it could be in colonial Havana or Madrid during the Spanish Civil War. There’s a pool table in the corner, an old-fashioned cement trough that functions as the men’s urinal, and staff and stoic regular patrons that indeed show their age. No food of any kind is served—only drinks. Beer starts at $2.50. Open daily 9am to 9pm. Plaza del Recreo, in Isabel Segunda. 787/741-2176.

Duffy’s This rustic tavern on the Esperanza waterfront has good food and a lively bar scene. This spot is run by the son of the legendary Caribbean entrepreneur Hugh Duffy and draws a loyal local crowd and is a favorite with visitors, so it’s a good place to mingle. This place is more classic rock and burgers—don’t come here expecting Puerto Rican food or serenity—but there are surprisingly good sandwiches (the Ruben) and seafood specials. Duffy’s Punch, the house dark rum punch, is worth a try, as is the Parcharita, a passion fruit drink. The joint gets jumping on weekend nights. The bar is open late every night. Calle Flamboyán (El Malecón) Esperanza, Vieques. 787/741-7000.

Lazy Jack’s ★ This bar and pizza joint has a kitchen that’s often the last to close in Esperanza, serving a big selection of frozen drinks and specialty beers; chances are you will wind up here at some point. Sit on patio furniture outside or belly up to the bar. This is an amiable expat spot, where it would not be surprising to hear that old Jimmy Buffett tune (even if it’s just in your head). There’s always something going on—holiday parties, live music, Wii bowling tournaments, karaoke nights, etc. Sit down here for a fine breeze and animated conversation, both available most of the time. Open daily at noon. Kitchen closes at 11pm except Friday and Saturday (11:30pm). Bar is open late every night. Calle Flamboyán (El Malecón) Esperanza, Vieques. 787/741-1864.

Mar Azul Bar This colorful waterfront bar draws ex-patriots from the U.S. who have settled here, but it’s also a hit with local viequenses and visitors. As such, it’s a great spot for travel tips (check out the bulletin board packed with useful info). Overlooking the sound between the island and Puerto Rico’s east coast, this waterfront pub is right next to the ferry, so is practically an obligatory stop. The main room has a big square bar, with surrounding tables, and an outside deck has small tables overlooking the water that are made for couples wanting a more quiet drink together. An adjoining room has pool tables and a jukebox. There’s basic pub fare, sandwiches and burgers, but the brisk demand is for rum punches and frozen piña coladas. It’s open Sunday through Thursday 11am to midnight, Friday and Saturday 11am to 2am. On the Waterfront, adjacent to the ferryboat piers, in Isabel Segunda. 787/741-3400.

Where to Stay

Expensive

Bravo Beach Hotel ★ In a secluded residential area, this boutique hotel, with its Frette linens and Philippe Starck designs, comes as a surprise—and a pleasant one. Young couple Carl and Janna Halberg recently acquired and completely overhauled the oceanfront property, adding new amenities while keeping those that have kept guests coming back year after year. Most of the bedrooms are within only 30 feet (9.1m) of the Atlantic with a good, white-sand beach. Units open onto a private terrace facing the sea. It’s the little things that count here: an honor bar poolside, or the box lunch the staff will pack for you to take to the beach. Rooms are decorated in a minimalist style, effectively using lots of white, draped plantation-era beds, and wicker furnishings. On-site is a two-bedroom cottage, a vision in white, accented by bamboo and mahogany pieces. You can even check your e-mail poolside, as there is free Wi-Fi available throughout the property for guests.

North Shore Rd. 1, Vieques, PR 00765. www.bravobeachhotel.com. 787/741-1128. 12 units. $100–$225 double; $250–275 suites; $325–$375 villas (depending on high or low season). Rates include continental breakfast. MC, V. Amenities: 2 outdoor pools; smoke-free rooms. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minifridge.

Malecón House ★ This chic seaside inn located in the hip seaside Esperanza village is among the newest hotels to join the island’s portfolio of properties. At first glance, the hotel is the embodiment of modern minimalist design, with its all-white facade and clean lines. Its 10 rooms all have different names to reflect their personalities and follow pretty much the same style, featuring simple decoration and ranging in category from standard to premium. Each room offers a full- or queen-size bed—some with an additional pullout sofa—sitting area, and walk-in shower. Four of the rooms have a view of the Atlantic’s crystal blue waters. While the hotel does not have a restaurant, it does offer free continental breakfast of freshly baked muffins and scones, local fruit, and Puerto Rican coffee, which you can enjoy just before taking a dip in the pool.

Calle Flamboyán 105, Vieques, PR 00765. 787/741-0663. www.maleconhouse.com. 10 units. $175–260 double. Rates include continental breakfast. MC, V. Amenities: Pool; rooftop terrace with tables and seating; smoke-free rooms, Wi-Fi (free, in common areas). In room: A/C, ceiling fan, minifridge, no phone..

Hix House ★★ Angular and avant-garde, and minimalist to the point of looking almost barren, Hix House is one of the most iconoclastic and most admired pieces of eco-sensitive architecture in the Caribbean. It is set on 12 acres (4.9 hectares) of land, formerly used for the cultivation of sugarcane, on a scrub- and tree-covered landscape on a hillside in the center of the island. The inn consists of five separate buildings, designed with triangular, circular, or rectangular floor plans. Each of them was created by the celebrated Toronto-based architect John Hix (a climate and design architect), who has won awards for his designs for low-maintenance houses in chilly Canada. The 19 rustic loft apartments have huge open windows and no air-conditioning, and each is aggressively outfitted with mosquito netting, low-wattage lighting (brighter lights attract mosquitoes), and virtually indestructible furniture that’s crafted either from poured and polished concrete or pressure-treated lumber. The newest addition to the property, Casa Solaris, is the first all-solar hotel building that is entirely removed from the commercial electrical grid. Casa Solaris will accommodate 16 guests in its six lofts.

Other than yoga classes, conducted every morning from 9:30am to 11am, there’s virtually nothing to do other than the entertainment you create yourself. The pool and surrounding area is gorgeous and refreshing. Rooms come with refrigerators that are stocked with milk, orange juice, eggs, cereal, freshly baked bread, and fruit. None has a bathtub, and showers are artfully rustic affairs set within open-air concrete alcoves.

Rte. 995, Km 1.5, Vieques, PR 14902. www.hixislandhouse.com. 787/741-2302. Fax 787/741-2797. 19 units. Winter $345–$450 double; off-season $135–$310 double. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Outdoor pool. In room: Ceiling fans, stocked fridge.

Inn on the Blue Horizon ★★ One of the finest places to stay on Vieques, it’s located on a wide, flat bluff overlooking the beautiful southern coastline. The Mediterranean-style main building has a huge main lobby, with an outrageously high ceiling, overlooking an infinity pool and blue horizon beyond. The soaring living area of the airy seafront house opens onto a view of the Caribbean coastline, right at the property’s edge.

Three of the bedrooms are in the main house; a half-dozen others are in a trio of bungalows, each of which contains two spacious and comfortable units, each with a private balcony and sea view. Airy and clean, they’re outfitted with early-19th-century North American antiques and eclectic art from a variety of artists. Two units contain tubs, and the rest are equipped with showers.

Symmetrically positioned arbors are covered with cascades of bougainvillea, with a pool and lawns that slope gracefully down to cliffs at the edge of the sea. The area is beautifully landscaped with bougainvillea and mosaic tile. The sea adjacent to the hotel has a rocky coastline. Although there’s one nearby beach, you’re better off visiting one of the dozens of fine local beaches. The views from the circular bar and the cliffside bar and dining area are spectacular. The restaurant, Carambola, is one of the island’s most respected. In addition to a great pool, there are two tennis courts (court charge is $10 per hour day for guests, $25 for nonguests).

Rte. 996 (P.O. Box 1556), Km 4.3, Vieques, PR 00765. www.innonthebluehorizon.com. 787/741-3318. Fax 787/741-0522. 10 units (some with shower only). Winter $160–$375 double; off-season $130–$260 double; holidays $200–$400 double. 5% resort fee. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; cafe/bar; gym; outdoor pool; tennis courts. In room: A/C, hair dryer, no phone.

W Vieques Retreat & Spa ★★★ The W arrived in Vieques in 2010, with the opening of the second W Retreat & Spa in the world. (The first was in the Maldives.) The W is where you stay to escape the hustle of the city, blending soft adventure with soothing relaxation for a unique experience, which begins as soon as you arrive in the W’s branded airplane and relax at their welcome lounge at Vieques airport. The W is very eco-friendly, with a rustic elegance and Mediterranean feel. The property is blessed with two private palm-lined pristine beaches and tangles of mangroves stretching as far as the eye can see. As soon as you enter the main building, you get the feeling it is outfitted for a world-class party, though it is perfect to relax and enjoy the gorgeous setting. Most rooms and suites have views of the Atlantic Ocean with an open-air natural and ironic tub designed by Urquiola exclusively for the W. Outdoors: relax or watch the sunset on colorful, high-end furniture on the decks; lounge on the beach, a private black pool, or by either of its two infinity-edge pools (with very cool underwater tunes); or gather around a fire pit for long conversations after dusk while you sip rum cocktails. Decompress before emerging reenergized for whatever lies ahead at AWAY Spa; and make sure you savor at least one meal at Alain Ducasse’s miX on the Beach. A very helpful staff and concierge will set you up with snorkeling and kayaking trips or kid-friendly excursions. You might also consider a Jeep rental with brand new Jeeps available through the Avis counter on-property.

Rte. 200, Km 3.2, Vieques, PR 00765. www.wvieques.com. 787/741-4100. Fax 954/624-1712. 156 units. Winter from $469 double; off-season starting at $299 double. $60 resort fee. AE, DC, MC, V. Pets allowed. Amenities: 3 restaurants; 3 bars; free airport transfers; bicycle rental; concierge; 24-hour health club; 2 infinity-edge pools; 24-hour room service; spa; tennis courts until sunset; watersports equipment. In room: A/C, cable TV, CD/DVD, hair dryer, minibar and snacks, MP3 docking station, Wi-Fi.

Moderate

Crow’s Nest ★ Set high on 5 acres (2 hectares) of forested hillside, about 1 1/2 miles (2.4km) west/southwest of Isabel Segunda, the grounds of this inn circle its beautiful pool area surrounded by hills. The comfortable, attractive units all have cooking facilities. Rooms are upscale, and each unit has a neatly tiled, shower-only bathroom. Like most of the other hotels on the island, this one requires a car ride of around 10 minutes for access to the nearest worthwhile beach.

Rte. 201, Km 1.6, Barrio Florida (P.O. Box 1521), Vieques, PR 00765. www.crowsnestvqs.com. 787/741-0033. Fax 787/741-1294. 17 units (shower only). $146 double; $245 suite. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Bar; pool; Wi-Fi. In room: A/C, kitchen.

Hacienda Tamarindo ★ Established in the late 1990s on the site of an expanded nightclub, less than a mile (1.6km) west of Esperanza, this inn has lots of flair, style, and pizzazz. Vermont-born owners Burr and Linda Vail transformed a thick-walled, rather unimaginative-looking concrete building into a replica of a Spanish colonial hacienda. The inn was built around a massive 200-year-old tamarind tree, whose branches rise majestically through the hotel’s atrium. Its production of fruit (Feb–Mar) is heralded with much excitement. Rooms are stylish, tiled, and spacious. Each contains an eclectic mishmash of art and dark-wood antiques, some of which were brought from Vermont. Bathrooms are modern, clean, and well designed; some contain a tub, others a shower. A new penthouse suite will open this summer, for guests who want more-spacious accommodations. Although the inn is set about one-eighth mile (.2km) from the sea, there’s access to a beach via a footpath, and there’s a pool. The restaurant and cafe at the Inn on the Blue Horizon lie within a 5-minute walk.

Rte. 996, Km 4.5, Barrio Puerto Real (P.O. Box 1569), Vieques, PR 00765. www.haciendatamarindo.com. 787/741-0420. Fax 787/741-3215. 17 units (some with shower only, some with tub only). Winter $195–$500 double, $245–$500 suite; off-season $150–$350 double, $180–$350 suite. 10% resort fee. Rates include full breakfast. AE, MC, V. No children under 13 off-season, under 17 in high season. Amenities: Bar; pool; Wi-Fi. In room: A/C, hair dryer, no phone.

Inexpensive

Bananas Guesthouse On the island’s south shore, on the main tourist strip of Esperanza and best known for its bar and restaurant (see “Where to Eat,” below), this guesthouse has eight simple rooms. Each has a ceiling fan; and some rooms are air-conditioned and have screened-in porches. Book one of the air-conditioned rooms rather than those without, as a means of cutting down on heat as well as the noise from the outside. Each unit has a bathroom with a tub. The units are unadorned cubicles with little architectural interest; they provide shelter and calm, and a basic level of comfort. The ambience is convivial, the staff friendly and accommodating. The best room is the $100 unit with air-conditioning and a deck.

Barrio Esperanza, 142 Calle Flamboyan (P.O. Box 1300), Vieques, PR 00765. www.bananasguesthouse.com. 787/741-8700. Fax 787/741-0790. 7 units. $70–$100 double. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar. In room: A/C (in 4 units), ceiling fans, no phone.

Casa de Amistad (House of Friendship) Until it was radically renovated in 2002 by a likable former resident of Wisconsin and Minnesota, this boxy-looking, two-story cement building functioned as a battered and run-down boardinghouse that focused on cheap mattresses and bountiful meals for itinerant workers. Today, in far better-maintained premises, something of the same spirit still prevails, albeit in cleaner, hipper, and more convivial circumstances, thanks to the owner’s friendly sense of informality. The house has a bar tucked away in one corner, a communal kitchen where residents are invited to prepare their own meals, a tiny “lending library” stocked with dog-eared paperback books, computer and television areas, free Wi-Fi, and a gift shop with the owner’s artwork on sale. Bedrooms are angular, tawny-colored units that are breezy and airy enclaves with simple but comfortable furniture and a sense of well-intentioned laissez-faire. Although any hotel on the island genuinely welcomes gay and lesbian clients, this guesthouse is especially gay friendly. The establishment’s social center is within a cement-walled courtyard, around a very small, L-shaped swimming pool sheathed in cerulean-blue tiles.

Calle Benitez Castaño 27, Vieques, PR 00765. www.casadeamistad.com. 787/741-3758. 7 units. Winter $80–$110 double, $110 suite; summer $75–$100 double; $100 suite. MC, V. Amenities: Small outdoor pool; courtyard garden/sun terrace; communal kitchen; TV room; small gift boutique. In room: A/C, ceiling fan, minifridge.

The Great Escape ★ This attractive, well-maintained bed-and-breakfast occupies a pair of stark white concrete houses, set on the crest of a hill, in a rural neighborhood just north of Esperanza. Your hostess is Danuta Schwartzwald, a Polish émigré who selected Vieques as a place to live after years of self-imposed exile in Switzerland. You might feel just a wee bit isolated here, located as it is behind metal gates, at the end of a long, uphill, and rutted road from Rte. 201. But the size and solid, surprisingly upscale furnishings—including some mahogany, four-poster beds; tiled floors; upscale bathrooms; and the sense of calm that reigns over the place, might eventually persuade you that, indeed, this is a desirable, although uneventful, place to stay. No meals are served other than breakfast, but the staff and managers of this place will offer advice about nearby venues. There are also one-bedroom to three-bedroom suites that fetch between $250 and $450.

Barrio La Llave, directly off Rte. 201, 2 miles (3.2km) northwest of Esperanza, Vieques, PR 14501. www.caribbeangreatescape.com. 787/376-4927. 11 units. Winter $115 double; off-season $125 double; year-round $250 1-bedroom apts, $350 2-bedroom apts, $450 3-bedroom apts (3-day minimum rental required for all apts). 10% resort fee. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Pool; bar. In room: Ceiling fan.

La Finca Caribe Guest House & Cottages This bare-bones, eco-sensitive establishment caters to budget-conscious travelers and youthful adventurers. Finca, a rustic estate, has as its centerpiece a guesthouse with a spacious porch, outfitted with hammocks and swinging chairs. An admirably maintained garden wraps itself around the scattered components of the compound. The rustic-looking outbuildings include a bathhouse, a communal kitchen, and two self-contained cottages suitable for up to three (the Casita) or two (the Cabanita) occupants. There is also the Casa Nueva, perhaps the most upscale digs, built on a hill, which sleeps five. The Cabanita is a cute one-bedroom cottage, and there is a beautiful family unit as well as larger buildings for groups. Cottages have private decks and kitchens. Another unit, the Family Cabana, which sleeps between two and six, has its own private bathroom and kitchen. There’s a pool on the premises and a crew of entrepreneurs that takes clients on bike tours to obscure parts of Vieques (see “Beaches, Diving & Other Outdoor Pursuits,” later in this chapter). La Finca is situated on a forested hillside 3 miles (5km) from Sun Bay.

Rte. 995, Km 1.2 (P.O. Box 1332), Vieques, PR 00765. www.lafinca.com. 787/741-0495. Fax 787/741-3584. 10 units, 4 cottages. Winter $97 double, $110–$195 cottage double, weekly cottages $735–$1,350; off-season $87 double, $100–$170 cottage double, weekly cottages $650–$1,190. One-time “short-stay” fee of $30 for 3 days or less during off-season and 4 days or less during the high season. Charge of $30 per person per additional guest in double-occupancy rooms. MC, V. Amenities: Communal kitchen; pool. In room: Kitchen (in cottages).

Trade Winds Guesthouse Along the shore on the south side of the island, in the fishing village of Esperanza, this oceanside guesthouse offers 11 units, four of which are air-conditioned and have terraces; some others have terraces and ceiling fans. Bedrooms are white-walled and durable, with absolutely no imagination in terms of decor; the units (all smoke-free) might remind you of a barracks. They’re almost equivalent to the rooms at Bananas, a few buildings away, but they’re just a bit better. Each unit has a small, tiled, shower-only bathroom. Because of their low rates, they’re usually booked solid, often with divers from the United States or residents of the Puerto Rican mainland who want low rates. This place is well known for its hospitable ambience and its open-air restaurant overlooking the ocean (see “Where to Eat,” below).

Calle Flamboyan 107, Barrio Esperanza (P.O. Box 1012), Vieques, PR 00765. www.tradewindsvieques.com. 787/741-8666. Fax 787/741-2964. 11 units (shower only). Year-round $98 double. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar. In room: A/C (in 4 units), fan (in some), no phone.

Culebra ★

52 miles (84km) E of San Juan; 18 miles (29km) E of Fajardo

Sun-bleached Culebra, 18 miles (29km) east of Puerto Rico’s main island and halfway to St. Thomas in the U.S. Virgin Islands, is just 7 miles (11km) long and 3 miles (5km) wide and has only 2,000 residents. The island is blessed by the persistent enchantment of the tropical weather, and the landscape is dotted with everything from scrub and cacti to Poinciana, frangipanis, and coconut palms. It has stunning beaches and emerald waters, and some of the finest diving, snorkeling, and sailing in the region, not to mention a gorgeous countryside.

This small island is all about having fun in the surf and the sun, but after a hard day at the beach, you can kick it back several notches and relax. There are a growing number of chic vacation homes and upscale inns, and places to get a good meal. But most visitors will want to save their energy for Culebra’s white-sand beaches, clear waters, and long coral reefs.

Culebra was settled as a Spanish colony in 1886. Like Puerto Rico and Vieques, it became part of the United States after the Spanish-American War in 1898. In fact, Culebra’s only town, a fishing village called Dewey, was named for Admiral George Dewey, a U.S. hero of that war, although the locals defiantly call it Puebla.

From 1909 to 1975, the U.S. Navy used Culebra as a gunnery range and as a practice bomb site in World War II. Today the four tracts of the Culebra Wildlife Refuge, plus 23 other offshore islands, are managed by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service. The refuge is one of the most important turtle-nesting sites in the Caribbean, and it also houses large seabird colonies, notably terns and boobies.

Culebrita, a mile-long (1.6km) coral-isle satellite of Culebra, has a hilltop lighthouse and crescent beaches. There are nearly two dozen other cays surrounding the island in the midst of stunning Caribbean waters.

Essentials

Getting There Vieques Air-Link ( 787/741-8331) flies to Culebra twice a day from San Juan’s Isla Grande Airport. Round-trip is $105. We recommend flying, as you will spend the entire day traveling to get to the island otherwise. Another option is Air Flamenco ( 787/724-1818 or 721-7332).

The Puerto Rico Port Authority operates one or two ferries per day (depending on the day of the week) from the mainland port of Fajardo to Culebra; the trip takes about an hour. The round-trip fare is $4.50 for adults, $2.25 for children 3 to 12 (free for 2 and under). For reservations, call 800/981-2005, 742-3161, or 863-0705 (Fajardo).

Getting Around With no public transportation, the only way to get to Culebra’s beaches is by bike or rental car.

There are a number of little car-rental agencies on the island, mostly renting small jeeps or similar vehicles. Prices range from $45 to $85 daily, and as low as $325 on a weekly basis. Carlos Jeep Rental, Parcela 2, Barriada Clark, Dewey (www.carlosjeeprental.com; 787/742-3514), lies a 3-minute ride from the airport. The outfitter rents jeeps and, with advance notice, will meet you at the airport. When you drop off your rental, the staff will also drive you back to the airport. Charging exactly the same prices is another reliable operator, Coral Reef, Carretera Pedro Marquez 3, Dewey ( 787/742-0055). A final option for vehicles is Willie’s Jeep Rental, Calle Escudero, Barriada Clark, Dewey ( 787/742-3537), lying a 5-minute walk from the airport. Vehicles here also start at $45 per day.

Bike riding is a popular means of getting around the island’s hills, dirt trails, and bad roads. You can rent mountain bikes at Dick and Cathy ( 787/742-0062) or Culebra Bike ( 787/742-2209 or 209-2543). Just call to reserve, and they will deliver to your hotel. You can also rent scooters from JM Rentals ( 787/717-7583), Culebra Scooter Rentals ( 787/909-1069), or Scooter Rentals ( 787/742-0195 or 367-0219), starting at $25 for 8 hours.

Beaches

The island’s most popular beach is Flamenco Beach ★, a mile-long (1.6km) horseshoe-shaped cove on the northwestern edge. It’s a mile-long arc of the silkiest, lightest white sand you will ever see, fronting a sapphire covered sea. It’s one of the most photographed beaches on the Caribbean, and with reason.

Walk over the hill beside the beach to Playa Carlos Rosario ★. The sands here aren’t quite as good as those at Flamenco, but the snorkeling is even better in these clear waters. A barrier reef protects this beach, so you are almost guaranteed tranquil waters. Snorkelers can also walk south from Playa Carlos Rosario for a quarter-mile (.4km) to a place called “the Wall” ★. There are 40-foot (12m) drop-offs into the water where you are likely to see schools of fish gliding by.

The isolated Zoni Beach is a 1-mile (1.6km) strip of sand flanked by large boulders and scrub. Located on the island’s northeastern edge, about 7 miles (11km) from Dewey (Puebla), it’s one of the most beautiful beaches on the island. Snorkelers, but not scuba divers, find it particularly intriguing; there are beautiful reefs just offshore but the surf sometimes makes underwater visibility a bit murky during rough weather.

Adventure Tours

Known for its beautiful corals, unspoiled underwater vistas, and absence of other divers, Culebra is what the Caribbean used to be before crowds of divers began exploring the sea. At least 50 dive sites, all around the island, are worthwhile. Culebra Divers, Calle Pedro Marquez 138 ( 787/742-0803, www.culebradivers.com), offers a resort course for novice divers, including training in a sheltered cove, and a tank dive in 15 to 20 feet (4.6–6.1m) of water ($125). Full PADI certification costs $395 and includes five open-water dives. You’ll have to arrange to study the material before arrival, and you’ll do the real practice once you are here. Certified divers pay $98 for a two-tank open-water dive. The outfitter rents equipment for $15 daily. It’s rare that more than six divers go out in one of these boats on any day. Captain Bill Penfield gives tours on his Pez-Vela ( 787/215-3809), a 33-foot sailing catamaran with room for six passengers. Go on a snorkel/picnic, deep-sea fishing, or simply take a leisure sail to nearby islands, coves, and deserted beaches. Bill is an excellent and professional captain who will provide you with a quintessential Caribbean experience, and customize the tour to the wants of the group. Lunch, drinks, and snacks are included in a $125 per person rate. Tours are given daily, and group rates are available. Snorkel SVI-Culebra (http://sites.google.com/site/culebraislandsnorkel; 787/930-2111) offers kayak snorkel and fishing trips for $95 full day, $65 half-day from the island that traverse waters choked with tropical fish and reefs and venture on to deserted cays. Newcomer Blue Culebra (www.blueculebra.com; 787/433-6964) offers snorkeling, kayaking, and even a “beach-hopping” tour for between $35 and $75 per person. The price includes snorkeling gear and flotation devices if necessary, as well as water, juices, and light snacks.

Where to Eat

Moderate

Dinghy Dock AMERICAN/CARIBBEAN/PUERTO RICAN For the best of laid-back tropical Culebra, head here. The hangout lies on the banks of Ensenada Honda, just south of the Dewey drawbridge, and it has a dock where dinghies and other boats anchor. Come here for the bar or the restaurant—or perhaps both—and meet the locals along with visiting boaters from the Puerto Rican mainland. It’s a great spot for a drink and to watch the sunset; there are great breakfasts, lunches, and dinners. There are tropical fruit-flavored waffles for breakfast, freshly grilled tuna for lunch, and a lobster-and-rice dish for dinner.

Punta del Soldado Rd., outside Dewey. 787/742-0233 or 742-0581. Reservations not necessary. Breakfast $5–$10; lunch $5.25–$15; main courses $14–$30. MC, V. Daily 8–11am, 11:30am–3pm, and 6–9pm.

Mamacita’s ★ PUERTO RICAN A colorful spot right on the Dewey channel, this guesthouse/restaurant has fine food and a lively bar and dining area on its back patio. On weekends and holidays, a great breakfast buffet is served. We recommend the chicken, shrimp, and sausage carbonara, or the blackened dorado with scampi butter for dinner; the Mexican salad is a good choice for lunch. There are some nice rooms here; two suites have kitchenettes, and the one on the top floor has a great view.

Calle Castelar 64–66. 787/742-0090. Reservations not required. Lunch $6.50–$15; main courses $15–$25. D, MC, V. Fri–Wed 11am–3pm and 6–9:30pm; weekend breakfast buffet 8am–11am.

Susie’s ★ TROPICAL FUSION This cute, homey spot serves up surprisingly creative and tasty fusion food, which relies on local herbs and produce. The curried yucca soup and the salmon-and-potato-patty appetizer with hot Chinese mustard will wow you. The coriander-crusted lamb chops served with saffron risotto and the sautéed shrimp with garlic and tarragon cream sauce are examples of the type of food that just was not possible to get in Culebra a short time ago. There’s a comfortable dining room, or eat out back overlooking the canal. There’s enough to try on the menu to warrant repeat visits.

Calle Sardinas 2, Dewey. 787/742-0574. Reservations recommended. Main courses $7–24. MC, V. Tues–Sun 6–9:30pm.

Inexpensive

El Batey DELI Across from the harbor and cooled by its breezes, this pub has great burgers, tasty criollo dishes, and a fun bar. The menu offers a variety of appetizers and entrees that is especially popular with the late-night crowd, as this spot remains open after most other places to eat on the island. There’s a daily lunch special during the week. On Saturday nights, young folk come out to dance to salsa. There are pool tables and live music on some weekend nights.

Parque de Pelota, Rte. 250, Km 0.1. 787/742-3828. Appetizers $5, burgers $4–$10, entrees $8–$17. MC, V. Sun–Thurs 11:30am–midnight, Fri–Sat 11:30am–2am.

Heather’s Pizzeria PIZZA This is the best place to go for pizza on the island. With its funky decor, it is a popular hangout for local expatriates. In addition to those piping-hot pies, the kitchen also turns out an array of freshly made salads, pastas, and well-stuffed sandwiches. The food here is quite good, and it’s a fun, friendly place.

Calle Marquez 14, Dewey. 787/742-3175. Reservations not necessary. Pizzas, sandwiches, and platters $9–$25. MC, V. Thurs–Tues 5–10pm, bar open till 11pm. Closed 1–2 weeks in Oct.

Zaco’s Tacos MEXICAN The first thing that hits you when you walk into this Mexican cantina is the bright blue walls and the wrestling/sports decor. Long-time Culebra residents—Zach, a self-professed Mexican food lover and his wife, Monica—have laid out a full menu of tacos, burritos, and carnitas that deserve nothing but rave reviews for their taste and creativity. To wash it all down, a smoothie or cocktail will do. Reasonable prices and a friendly wait staff keep visitors going back for seconds . . . and thirds.

Calle Marquez 21. www.zacostacos.com. 787/742-0243. Appetizers and main courses $2–$9. MC, V. Sat–Wed noon–8pm, Fri 5–8pm.

Where to Stay

Moderate

Bahia Marina ★★ These one-bedroom and two-bedroom villas are among Culebra’s finest accommodations, with wonderful amenities in a setting of natural wonder. The properties are built across a ridge bordered by a 100-acre (40 hectare) nature reserve and overlooking Fulladoza Bay and a beautiful coastline. The villas are cheerful, comfortable, well maintained, and well equipped, and they all have two bathrooms and balconies with killer views and constant breezes. The units are sufficiently large for a family of four to fit comfortably in a one-bedroom; all have well-equipped kitchens (not kitchenettes). Units have cable television, DVD players, and comfortable furnishings. There are three restaurants with bars at this property’s clubhouse, and you can find some of the best food on the island here, especially the Dakity Restaurant and the Shipwreck Bar & Grill. There is also a circular sundeck that provides panoramic views, and two pools on different levels. It’s not the Ritz, but the service is wonderfully earnest and the friendly staff members are more than happy to share their love and knowledge of the island with you. A sailing catamaran offers a daylong sail, among the best adventures for vacationers. This property may have a higher per-night charge than many guesthouse rooms, but you are getting more for your money here. It’s great for families or small groups, but it’s a challenge to get anybody over the phone to make reservations.

Rte. 250, Km 2.5, Fulladoza Bay, Culebra, PR 00775. www.bahiamarina.net. 787/742-0535. Fax 787/742-1100. 28 units. $219–$295 double. Rates include continental breakfast. MC, V. From Dewey (Puebla), follow Rte. 250 (also called Fulladoza Rd.) along the south side of the bay for 1 3/4 miles (2.8km). Amenities: 3 restaurants; 2 bars; DVD library; 3 pools. In room: A/C, TV, kitchen, Wi-Fi, no phone.

Casa Yaboa Casa Yaboa is one of the newest additions to Culebra’s boutique hotel portfolio. The eco-friendly inn is owned and managed by the owners of Susie’s Restaurant, and is located on a secluded 5-acre (2-hectare) property bordered by the soft coralline, sand, and rounded-pebble beach that is perfect for snorkeling, swimming, diving, and sailing. This small hotel features just two units, the Bubi House and the Tree Nest cottage, built entirely from cedar trees. The cottages include a small kitchen and dining room area, and spectacular views of Mosquito Bay. Lounge chairs, hammocks, BBQ, gardens, and walking trails abound to please those looking for an adventure stay or who just simply want to relax under the shade of the countless trees.

Rte. 250, Culebra, PR 00775. www.casayaboaculebra.com. 787/340-7058 or 413-0310. 2 cottages (shower only). Tree Nest $180, Bubi House, $220. MC, V. Amenities: 10% discount at Susie’s Restaurant; watersports/equipment rentals. In room: TV (Bubi House), kitchen.

Club Seabourne Overlooking Fulladoza Bay, this property is set in a garden of crotons and palms, at the mouth of one of the island’s best harbors, Ensenada Bay, which is reached via a winding country road from town. There are villas scattered across the hillside and some rooms inside a central structure with the restaurant, bar, and main lobby. The pool is a plus, and the restaurant remains one of the best on the island, with fresh lobster, shrimp, snapper, grouper, and conch, as well as steaks. The patio bar is a great spot. Dive packages and day sails can be arranged at the office. Rooms are big and airy, and have been recently upgraded with new furnishings and flatscreen TVs.

Fulladoza Rd. (P.O. Box 357), Culebra, PR 00775. www.clubseabourne.com. 787/742-3169. Fax 787/742-0210. 12 units (shower only). Winter $185–$339 double, off-season $169–$219 double. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, MC, V. From Dewey (Puebla), follow Rte. 250 (also called Fulladoza Rd.) along the south side of the bay. It’s 1 1/2 miles/2.4km from town. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; pool; 1 room for those w/limited mobility. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, no phone.

Tamarindo Estates On 60 lush acres (24 hectares) beside a private bay, this is a small, intimate Puerto Rican beachfront resort of kitchen-equipped cottages. Living here is like occupying your second home. There is a simple, even pristine, aura here, but comfortable nonetheless, with panoramic views from the roofed verandas. Each unit has either one or two bedrooms. The mecca of this nicely secluded place is a swimming pool with an ocean view and a roofed deck. There is easy access to shoreline snorkeling in gin-clear waters. The resort lies a 10-minute drive from town, and all cottages are screened and have ceiling fans. Each cottage has a shower-only bathroom. Housekeeping is not provided.

Tamarindo Beach Rd., Culebra, PR 00775. www.tamarindoestates.com. 787/742-3343. Fax 787/742-3342. 12 cottages (shower only). Winter $169 double, $335 quad; off-season $140 double, $240 quad. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Pool; beach house. In room: A/C, ceiling fans, TV, kitchen.

Inexpensive

Casa Ensenada Waterfront Guesthouse This is a laid-back, tropical-looking house with relatively humble but clean and comfortable bedrooms. Many guests begin their day by taking a kayak over to the Dinghy Dock restaurant for breakfast and later return to sunbathe on the patio. In the evening, guests gather again on the patio for drinks and for barbecue—the catch of the day on the grill. Each unit is midsize and has a tiled, shower-only bathroom. All are smoke-free. You can rent the Pequeño unit, which sleeps two in a double bed, or the Grande unit for four (two in a king-size bed in the master bedroom and two on a double futon in the living room). The on-site Estudio unit sleeps four, in twin beds and a double futon.

Calle Escudero 142, Culebra, PR 00775. www.casaensenada.com. 787/241-4441 or 866/210-0709. 3 units (shower only). Winter $125–$175 double; spring and summer $100–$150 double; fall $85–$150 double (taxes included in rates). MC, V. Amenities: Bikes; library; watersports/equipment rentals. In room: A/C, kitchenette.

Posada la Hamaca ★ This was one of Culebra’s original guesthouses, lying in town next to the Dewey Bridge. Although competition has opened to challenge it, this place is still going strong and was recently spruced up to keep up its appeal. Basic but bright and comfortable rooms are housed in a modest island home. Although simply furnished, each of the rooms is well maintained and tidily kept, each with a private bathroom with shower. Beach towels, coolers, and free ice are provided for beach outings. You’ll also find an exterior shower to wash the sand off your body before you enter. Room no. 8 is the coziest nest and is often rented by honeymooners. Some units are large enough to accommodate four guests, making them suitable for families. One apartment is spacious enough to accommodate 8 to 12 guests.

Calle Castelar 68, Culebra, PR 00775. www.posada.com. 787/742-3516. 10 units. Winter $89–$155; off-season $80–$139. Prices cheaper if booked online. MC, V. Amenities: Wi-Fi. In room: A/C, TV, kitchenette (in some).