Chapter 11: Planning Your Trip to Puerto Rico

Getting There

Puerto Rico’s unique political situation makes it a hassle-free destination for U.S. travelers, who will basically be subject to the same strictures as interstate travel. All you need is a government-issued identification. You won’t face any of the hassles of foreign government entry requirements and processes you would at many other Caribbean destinations. Also, several major airlines offer direct flights to airports in San Juan and Aguadilla from major cities throughout the United States, especially from the East Coast, and beachfront guesthouses or big scale hotels are minutes from the airports. Being part of the U.S. also means there are no currency exchange hoops to jump through and your bank card will work as easily here as it will at home.

It’s a 3 1/2-hour flight from New York City, and it’s quick for carry-on passengers, who can be at their destinations minutes after touchdown. (Baggage claim takes forever, and the airport is not being well maintained.)

Getting to your destination fast is a big reason to visit Puerto Rico. The country’s ease of entry makes it a good alternative to not only Aruba or Cancun for that winter getaway, but a viable option to Vermont or New Hampshire for a long weekend getaway in October. This chapter discusses the where, when, and how of your trip to Puerto Rico—everything required to plan your trip and get it on the road. It’s what you need to do before you go to make this largely hassle-free destination even more manageable.

By Plane

Puerto Rico is by far the most accessible of the Caribbean islands, with frequent airline service. It’s also the major airline hub of the Caribbean Basin. Because it’s part of the United States, there are no hassles for U.S. travelers related to border entry, currency exchange, etc.

Puerto Rico has 60 daily nonstop flights to and from 20 destinations in the continental U.S., the most in the Caribbean. Seven regional airlines serve 22 Caribbean destinations with 87 daily nonstop flights, while seven airlines provide close to 70 weekly flights to seven international destinations.

Airlines traveling to Puerto Rico include: American Airlines (www.aa.com; 800/433-7300 in the U.S. and Canada); Air Tran Airways (airtranairways.com; 800/247-8726); Delta (www.delta.com; 800/221-1212 in the U.S. and Canada); JetBlue (www.jetblue.com; 800/538-2583 in the U.S. and Canada); Spirit Air (www.spiritair.com; 800/772-7117 in the U.S. and Canada); United Airlines (www.united.com; 800/231-0856, or 800/864-8331 in the U.S. and Canada); US Airways (www.usairways.com; 800/622-1015 in the U.S. and Canada); Air Canada (www.aircanada.com; 888/247-2262); British Airways (www.britishairways.com; 800/AIRWAYS [247-9297] in the U.S. and Canada); Condor (www.condor.com; 866/960-7915 in the U.S. and Canada, or +49 (0) 180 57/0-7202 in Germany); Iberia (www.iberia.com; 800/772-4642 in the U.S. and Canada, or 902/400-500 in Spain); LIAT (www.liatairline.com; 866/549-5428 from Puerto Rico and the U.S. Virgin Islands, or 888/844-5428 from most elsewhere in the Caribbean, or 268/480-5601 from elsewhere, including the U.S); Seaborne Airlines (www.seaborneairlines.com; 888/359-8687); and WestJet (www.westjet.com; 855/547-2451 in the U.S., or 888/937-8538).

Getting Around

By Plane

Cape Air (www.flycapeair.com; 866/FLY-CAPEAIR [359-2273]) flies from Luis Muñoz Marín International Airport to Mayagüez, Ponce, and Vieques several times a day. They also offer many flights daily to St. Thomas, St. Croix, and Tortola. Seaborne offers service to several Caribbean islands and Vieques. A handful of small airlines service Vieques and Culebra with small planes that seat about a dozen passengers.

American Eagle (www.aa.com; 800/433-7300) is one of the leading regional air carriers in the world and a local leader with 37 destinations in the Caribbean and the Bahamas. It’s your ticket from San Juan to the greater Caribbean.

By Car

There is good news and bad news about driving in Puerto Rico. First, the good news: Puerto Rico offers some of the most scenic drives in all the Caribbean.

Of course, if you want to stay only in San Juan, having a car is not necessary. You can get around San Juan on foot or by bus, taxi, and in some cases, hotel minivan.

Now the bad news: Renting a car and driving in Puerto Rico, depending on the routes you take, can lead to a number of frustrating experiences, as our readers relate to us year after year. These readers point out that local drivers are often reckless, as evidenced by the number of fenders with bashed-in sides. The older coastal highways provide the most scenic routes but are often congested. Some of the roads, especially in the mountainous interior, are just too narrow for automobiles. If you do rent a car, proceed with caution along these poorly paved and maintained roads, which most often follow circuitous routes. Cliffslides or landslides are not uncommon.

Some local agencies may tempt you with special reduced prices. But if you’re planning to tour the island by car, you won’t find any local branches that will help you if you experience trouble. And some of the agencies widely advertising low-cost deals won’t take credit cards and want cash in advance. Also, watch out for hidden extra costs, which sometimes proliferate among the smaller and not very well-known firms, and difficulties connected with resolving insurance claims.

If you do rent a vehicle, it’s best to stick with the old reliables: Avis, Budget, or Hertz. Each of these companies offers minivan transport to its office and car depot. Be alert to the minimum-age requirements for car rentals in Puerto Rico. Both Avis and Hertz require that renters be 25 or older; at Budget, renters must be 21 or older, but those between the ages of 21 and 24 pay a $10 to $25 daily surcharge to the agreed-upon rental fee.

Added security comes from an antitheft double-locking mechanism that has been installed in most of the rental cars available in Puerto Rico. Car theft is common in Puerto Rico, so extra precautions are always needed.

Distances are often posted in kilometers rather than miles (1km = 0.62 mile), but speed limits are displayed in miles per hour.

International visitors should note that insurance and taxes are almost never included in quoted rental-car rates in the U.S. Be sure to ask your rental agency about additional fees for these. They can add a significant cost to your car rental. Note: In Puerto Rico, gasoline is sold by the liter, not by the gallon. The cost of gasoline is often somewhat cheaper than in the United States. Current prices are hovering around 98¢ a liter (3.78 of which make up a gallon). Taxes are already included in the printed price. One U.S. gallon equals 3.8 liters or .85 imperial gallons.

By Public Transportation

Cars and minibuses, known as públicos, provide low-cost transportation around the island. Their license plates have the letters “P” or “PD” following the numbers. They serve all the main towns of Puerto Rico; passengers are let off and picked up along the way, both at designated stops and when someone flags them down. Rates are set by the Public Service Commission. Públicos usually operate during daylight hours, departing from the main plaza (central square) of a town.

Information about público routes between San Juan and Mayagüez is available at Lineas Sultana, Calle Esteban González 898, Urbanización Santa Rita, Río Piedras ( 787/765-9377). Information about público routes between San Juan and Ponce is available from Choferes Unidos de Ponce, Terminal de Carros Públicos, Calle Vive in Ponce ( 787/764-0540). There are several operators listed under Lineas de Carros in the local Yellow Pages.

Fares vary according to whether the público will make a detour to pick up or drop off a passenger at a specific locale. (If you want to deviate from the predetermined routes, you’ll pay more than if you wait for a público beside the main highway.) Fares from San Juan to Mayagüez and from San Juan to Ponce range from $20 to $40. Be warned that although prices of públicos are low, the routes are slow, with frequent stops, often erratic routing, and lots of inconvenience.

Getting around San Juan is getting easier all the time. You have two local bus lines, a publíco system that covers the entire metro area, and the Tren Urbano, a light urban rail system connecting Santurce with the Hato Rey financial district, the university and medical center districts, and important suburban locations in Bayamón and Guaynabo. Tren Urbano riders can transfer free to city buses and vice versa.

So if you are staying in San Juan, having a car is not necessary. You can get around San Juan on foot or by bus, taxi, and in some cases, hotel minivan. The Tren Urban, a light rail system connecting Santurce to the financial, university, and medical districts, and important suburban destinations in Bayamón and Guaynabo, is a great ride. Prices were slashed in half to .75¢, on par with public buses, and riders can transfer into the bus system free of charge. The integration is aimed at increasing ridership throughout the system, and ferries from Old San Juan to Catano and the Hato Rey financial district are also being integrated into the system.

The train and accompanying buses cover virtually all of San Juan. They keep special expanded schedules during big events, such as a festival in Old San Juan, and also for when big acts play at the Puerto Rico Coliseum, or the Tourism Company throws a New Year’s Eve party at the convention center. For more information, call 866/900-1284, or log onto www.ati.gobierno.pr.

Taxis are also reasonably priced and work late into the evening in the city’s major districts. So they are your go-to option for a night of clubbing or to get home after a late night.

Tips on Where to Stay

Hotels & Resorts

There is no rigid classification of Puerto Rican hotels. The word “deluxe” is often used—or misused—when “first class” might be a more appropriate term. We’ve presented fairly detailed descriptions of the hotels in this book, so you’ll get an idea of what to expect once you’re there.

Puerto Rico has had a bum rap for bad service, but our experience is that service in hotels and restaurants has been on a dramatic upswing over the last decade. There is still the slow tropical pace, what folks mean when they talk about “island time.”

Ask detailed questions when booking a room. Entertainment in Puerto Rico is often alfresco, so light sleepers obviously won’t want a room directly over a band. In general, back rooms cost less than oceanfront rooms, and lower rooms cost less than upper-floor units. Always ascertain whether transfers (which can be expensive) are included. And make sure that you know exactly what is free and what costs money. Some resorts seem to charge every time you breathe and might end up costing more than a deluxe hotel that includes most everything in the price.

Also factor in transportation costs, which can mount quickly if you stay 5 days to a week. If you want to go to the beach every day, it might be wise to book a hotel in Condado, Isla Verde, or Ocean Park and not stay in romantic Old San Juan, from which you’ll spend a lot of time and money transferring back and forth between your hotel and the beach.

The most important question to ask is if the property charges a hotel or resort fee, which can be hefty, as much as 16% of the cost of your entire stay. Once the provenance of the biggest properties, the fee is also being employed by your better guest houses these days. Knowing such fees is essential information when deciding where to stay, as it could make what seemed a good deal look suddenly otherwise. The practice is largely confined to San Juan and resort properties out on the island, but make sure to verify (we’ve included the fee after the room rates in this guide).

Most San Juan hotels are along beaches that can be exposed to strong Atlantic coast, but there are more protected areas along the northern coast, whether in Dorado, Rio Grande, or Fajardo, and along the Caribbean coasts in southern Puerto Rico, from Palmas del Mar and Vieques and Culebra in the east to Cabo Rojo and Rincón in the west.

MAP vs. AP, or Do You Want CP or EP?

All resorts offer a European Plan (EP) rate, which means you pay for the price of a room. That leaves you free to dine around at night at various other resorts or restaurants without restriction. Another plan preferred by many is the Continental Plan (CP), which means you get your room and a continental breakfast of juice, coffee, bread, jam, and so on, included in a set price. This plan is preferred by many because most guests don’t like to “dine around” at breakfast time.

Another major option is the Modified American Plan (MAP), which includes breakfast and one main meal of the day, either lunch or dinner. The final choice is the American Plan (AP), which includes breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

At certain resorts you will save money by booking either the MAP or AP because discounts are granted. If you dine a la carte for lunch and dinner at various restaurants, your final dining bill will no doubt be much higher than if you stayed on the MAP or AP.

Some hotels are moving towards all-inclusive labeling that includes meals at different on-site restaurants, and perhaps other activities. It is happening at both large resorts with numerous restaurants and guesthouses along isolated coast or mountain areas.

These plans might save you money, but if, as part of your holiday, you like to eat in various places, you might be disappointed. You face the same dining room every night, unless the resort you’re staying at has many different restaurants on the dining plan.

In San Juan, which is a fabulous culinary crossroads that can keep visiting gourmands satiated for weeks, they are a particularly bad idea.

Puerto Rican Guesthouses

A unique type of accommodation is the guesthouse, where Puerto Ricans themselves usually stay when they travel. Ranging in size from 7 to 25 rooms, they offer a familial atmosphere. Many are on or near the beach; some have pools or sundecks, and a number serve meals.

In Puerto Rico, however, the term “guesthouse” has many meanings. Some guesthouses are like simple motels built around pools. Others have small individual cottages with their own kitchenettes, constructed around a main building in which you’ll often find a bar and a restaurant serving local food. Some are surprisingly comfortable, often with private bathrooms and swimming pools. You may or may not have air-conditioning. The rooms are sometimes cooled by ceiling fans or by the trade winds blowing through open windows at night.

For value, the guesthouse can’t be topped. If you stay at a guesthouse, you can journey over to a big beach resort and use its seaside facilities for only a small fee. Although bereft of frills, the guesthouses we’ve recommended are clean and safe for families or single women. However, the cheapest ones are not places where you’d want to spend a lot of time because of their modest furnishings.

For further information on guesthouses, contact the Puerto Rico Tourism Company, La Princesa Building, Paseo La Princesa 2, Old San Juan, PR 00902 ( 800/866-7827 or 787/721-2400).

Paradores

In an effort to lure travelers beyond the hotels and casinos of San Juan’s historic district to the tranquil natural beauty of the island’s countryside, the Puerto Rico Tourism Company offers paradores puertoriqueños (charming country inns), which are comfortable bases for exploring the island’s varied attractions. Vacationers seeking a peaceful idyll can also choose from several privately owned and operated guesthouses.

Using Spain’s parador system as a model, the Puerto Rico Tourism Company established the paradores in 1973 to encourage tourism across the island. Each of the paradores is situated in a historic place or site of unusual scenic beauty and must meet high standards of service and cleanliness. Some of the paradores are located in the mountains and others by the sea. Most have pools, and all offer excellent Puerto Rican cuisine. Many are within easy driving distance of San Juan.

Properties must meet certain benchmark standards of quality to be admitted to the program, so tourists feel comfortable staying at the property. One complaint about the program is that variances in quality still range widely from one property to the next. For more information, call 800/866-7827 or check out www.gotoparadores.com.

Some of the best paradores are in western Puerto Rico (see chapter 9). The Tourism Company also operates a similar program which promotes worthy local restaurants called Mesones Gastronómicos ( 800/981-7575).

Villas & Vacation Homes

There are also excellent vacation homes in resort communities such as Rincón and Vieques. For luxurious Old San Juan apartment rentals, check Vida Urbana, Calle Cruz 255, Old San Juan, PR 00901 ( 787/587-3031; www.vidaurbanapr.com). Two short-term specialists in Condado and Isla Verde are San Juan Vacations, Cond. Marbella del Caribe, Ste. S-5, Isla Verde 00979 (www.sanjuanvacations.com; 800/266-3639 or 787/727-1591), and Ronnie’s Properties, Calle Marseilles 14, Ritz Condominium, Ste. 11-F, San Juan, PR 00907 (www.ronniesproperties.com).

Private apartments are rented either with or without maid service. This is more of a no-frills option than the villas and condos. An apartment might not be in a building with a swimming pool, and it might not have a front desk to help you. Among the major categories of vacation homes, cottages offer the most freewheeling way to live. Most cottages are fairly simple, many opening in an ideal fashion onto a beach, whereas others may be clustered around a communal pool. Many contain no more than a simple bedroom together with a small kitchen and bathroom. For the peak winter season, reservations should be made at least 5 or 6 months in advance.

Travel experts agree that savings, especially for a family of three to six people, or two or three couples, can range from 50% to 60% over what a hotel would cost. If there are only two in your party, these savings probably don’t apply.

Rental Agencies

Agencies specializing in renting properties in Puerto Rico include:

• VHR, Worldwide, 235 Kensington Ave., Norwood, NJ 07648 (www.vhrww.com; 800/633-3284 or 201/767-9393), offers the most comprehensive portfolio of luxury villas, condominiums, resort suites, and apartments for rent in the Caribbean, including complete packages for airfare and car rentals.

• Hideaways Aficionado, 767 Islington St., Portsmouth, NH 03801 (www.hideaways.com; 800/843-4433 or 603/430-4433), provides a 144-page guide with illustrations of its accommodations, so that you can get an idea of what you’re renting. Most villas come with maid service. You can also ask this travel club about discounts on plane fares and car rentals.

Tours

Before you start your search for the lowest airfare, you might want to consider booking your flight as part of a travel package such as an escorted tour or a package tour. What you lose in adventure, you’ll gain in time and money saved when you book accommodations, and maybe even food and entertainment, along with your flight.

One good source of package deals is the airlines themselves. Also consult Vacation Together (www.vacationtogether.com; 877/444-4547), which allows you to search for and book packages offered by a number of tour operators and airlines. The United States Tour Operators Association’s website (www.ustoa.com) has a search engine that allows you to look for operators that offer packages to a specific destination.

Travel packages are also listed on major Internet travel sites and in the travel section of the local Sunday newspaper. Liberty Travel (www.libertytravel.com; 888/271-1584), one of the biggest packagers in the Northeast, is a bigger advertiser in print and other media, but its website typically has at least a half dozen deals to the island at any given time.

Tour Scan Caribbean Vacations (www.tourscan.com; 800/962-2080) finds the best deals from the 10,000 vacation offers its Caribbean travel experts analyze. You can see some results online.

The Active Vacation Planner

There are watersports opportunities throughout Puerto Rico, from San Juan’s waterfront hotels to eastern resorts and the offshore islands of Vieques and Culebra all the way to the Rincón on the west coast and Cabo Rojo in the south.

Beach Warning

In San Juan, don’t go walking along the beaches at night, even as tempting as it may be to do with your lover. On unguarded beaches, you will have no way to protect yourself or your valuables should you be approached by a robber or mugger, which can happen. The exceptions may be the beaches in front of Barbosa Park in Ocean Park and Parquedel Indio in Condado, which are lit up at night and draw many evening visitors. Beaches on the island, especially in vacation towns such as Vieques and Culebra, Boquerón, and Isabela, are genuinely safer, but it’s still a good idea not to stray too far off the beaten path.

Boating & Sailing

The waters off Puerto Rico provide excellent boating in all seasons. Winds average 10 to 15 knots virtually year-round. Marinas provide facilities and services on par with any others in the Caribbean, and many have powerboats or sailboats for rent, either crewed or bareboat charter.

Puerto Rico is ringed by marinas. In San Juan alone, there are three large ones. The upscale Club Nautico de San Juan ( 787/722-0177) and neighboring San Juan Bay Marina ( 787/721-8062) are adjacent to the Condado bridge and the Convention Center district in Miramar. The other marina, the Cangrejos Yacht Club (Rte. 187, Piñones; 787/791-1015), is near the airport, outside Isla Verde at the entrance to Piñones.

All three have several sailing charters and dive and fishing operators.

Fajardo, on Puerto Rico’s northeast corner, boasts seven marinas, including the Caribbean’s largest, the Puerto del Rey Marina (Rte. 3, Km 51.4; 787/860-1000 or 801-3010), and the popular Villa Marina Yacht Harbour (Rte. 987, Km 1.3; 787/863-5131 or 863-5011), offering the shortest ride to the best snorkeling grounds and offshore beaches. Other town marinas include Puerto Chico (Rte. 987, Km 2.4; 787/863-0834) and Puerto Real (Playa Puerto Real; 787/863-2188).

Along the south coast, one of the most established and charming marinas is the Ponce Yacht & Fishing Club (La Guancha, Ponce; 787/842-9003).

But marinas, both small and large, can be found throughout island coasts. Check local listings for a “Club Nautico.” Those with pleasure crafts, sailing, and watersports offerings catering to tourists include Club Nautico de Boquerón ( 787/851-1336) and Club Nautico de La Parguera ( 787/899-5590), which are each located just outside their respective village centers.

Several sailing and ocean racing regattas are held in Puerto Rico annually. The east of Puerto Rico and the southwest are particularly attractive for sailors. Fajardo is the start of a series of ports, extending from Puerto Rico’s own offshore islands through the U.S. and British Virgin Islands to the east, which is probably the Caribbean’s top sailing destination.

The easiest way to experience the joys of sailing is to go out on a day trip leaving from one of the Fajardo marinas (with transportation from San Juan hotels often included). The trips usually take place on large luxury catamarans or sailing yachts, with a bar serving drinks and refreshments, a sound system, and other creature comforts. Typically, after a nice sail, the vessel weighs anchor at a good snorkeling spot, then makes a stop on one of the beautiful sand beaches on the small islands off the Fajardo coast. Operators include Traveler Sailing Catamaran ( 787/853-2821), East Island Excursions ( 787/860-3434), Catamaran Spread Eagle ( 787/887-8821), and Erin Go Bragh Charters ( 787/860-4401).

Also on the east coast is Karolette Charter, Palmas del Mar, Calle AB-12, Rte. 3, Km 86.4, Humacao ( 787/637-7992 or 850-7442), which offers snorkeling trips for $107 per person, or charters for $640 for 4 1/2 hours or $840 for 6 hours.

Out west, Katarina Sail Charters ( 787/823-SAIL [7245]) in Rincón gives daily sailing trips aboard a 32-foot (9.8m) catamaran; there are both a day sail and a sunset sail on offer.

For the typical visitor interested in watersports—not the serious yachter—our favorite place for fun in the surf is the aptly named San Juan Water Fun on Isla Verde Beach in back of the Wyndham El San Juan Hotel & Casino, Avenida Isla Verde in Isla Verde, San Juan ( 787/644-2585 or 643-4510). Here you can rent everything from a two-seater kayak for $30 per hour to a banana boat that holds eight passengers and costs $15 per person for a 20-minute ride.

If you’re staying in eastern Puerto Rico, the best place for watersports rentals is the watersports center at Rio Mar Beach Resort, 6000 Rio Mar Blvd., Rio Grande ( 787/888-6000), with scuba and snorkeling trips, and a great selection of small boats. WaveRunners cost about $100 per hour, and two-seat kayaks go for $35 per hour.

In the southwest, Pino’s Boat & Water Fun ( 787/821-6864 or 484-8083) at Guánica’s Playa Santa has everything from paddleboats or kayaks to water scooters for rent.

Camping

Puerto Rico abounds in remote sandy beaches, lush tropical forests, and mountain lakesides that make for fine camping.

Although it has been technically illegal to camp on beaches (except in designated areas) for the last decade, it is commonly done in off-the-beaten path coastal areas, especially in Guánica, Isabela, Fajardo, and the offshore islands of Vieques and Culebra.

Also, there are more than enough campgrounds available in coastal areas, as well as in the mountains and local state forests and nature reserves.

Some of the nicest campgrounds, as well as the best equipped and safest, are those run by the government Compañia de Parques Nacionales (Av. Fernández Juncos 1611, Santurce; www.parquesnacionalespr.com; 787/622-5200).

Six of the eight campsites it operates are located on the coast—at Luquillo, Fajardo, Vieques, Arroyo, Añasco, and Vega Baja. It also runs two fine campgrounds in the mountain town of Maricao and in Camuy’s Cave Park.

Some of these are simple places where you erect your own tent, although they are outfitted with electricity and running water; some are simple cabins, sometimes with fireplaces. Showers and bathrooms are communal. To stay at a campsite costs between $15 and $25 per night per tent.

Many sites offer very basic cabins for rent. Each cabin is equipped with a full bathroom, a stove, a refrigerator, two beds, and a table and chairs. However, most of your cooking will probably be tastier if you do it outside at one of the on-site barbecues. In nearly all cases, you must provide your own sheets and towels.

The agency, the National Parks Company, in English, also operates more upscale “vacation centers,” which feature rustic cabins and more tourist-ready “villas,” on par with many island inns.

State forests run by the Departamento de Recursos Naturales y Ambientales also allow camping with permits. Except for cabins at Monte Guilarte State Forest, which cost $20 per night, camping sites are available at $5 per person. For further information about permits, contact the DRNA (Rte. 8838, Km 6.3, Sector El Cinco, Río Piedras; 787/999-2200).

There are seven major on-island camping sites in the following state forests: Cambalache State Forest, near Barceloneta; Carite State Forest, near Patillas; Guajataca State Forest, near Quebradillas; Monte Guilarte State Forest, near Adjuntas; Susua State Forest, near Yauco; Río Abajo State Forest, near Arecibo; and our favorite, Toro Negro Forest Reserve, near Villaba, where you can camp in the shadow of Puerto Rico’s highest peaks.

It’s also possible to camp at either of two wildlife refuges, Isla de Mona Wildlife Refuge, lying some 50 miles (80km) off the west coast of Puerto Rico surrounded by the rough seas of Mona Passage, and at Lago Lucchetti Wildlife Refuge, a beautiful mountain reservoir between Yauco and Ponce.

Meanwhile, visitors can also camp at El Yunque National Forest ( 787/888-1810), which is under the jurisdiction of the U.S. Forest Service. There is no cost, but permits are required. They can be obtained in person at the Catalina Service Center (Rte. 191, Km 4.3) daily from 8am to 4:30pm, and weekends at the Palo Colorado Visitor Center (Rte. 191, Km 11.9) from 9:30am to 4pm. It’s primitive camping within the rainforest.

Deep-Sea Fishing

While fishing is good year round, the winter season from October to early March is among the best. Blue marlin can be caught all summer and into the fall, and renowned big-game fishing tournaments take place in August and September.

Charters are available at marinas in major cities and tourism areas. Most boats range between 32 and 50 feet; fit six passengers; can be chartered for half- or full-day; and usually include bait, crew, and equipment.

Big game fish are found close to shore across Puerto Rico, so you won’t waste time traveling to fishing spots. A mile off the San Juan coast, the ocean floor drops 600 feet (183m), and the awesome Puerto Rico Trench, a 500-mile-long (805km) fault that plunges to a depth of 28,000 feet (8354m), lies about 75 miles (121km) directly north. It’s a 20-minute ride to where the big game fish are biting, so it’s possible to leave in the morning, make the catch of the day, and be back at the marina in the early afternoon.

Deep-sea fishing is top-notch throughout the island. Allison tuna, white and blue marlin, sailfish, wahoo, dolphinfish (mahimahi), mackerel, and tarpon are some of the fish that can be caught in Puerto Rican waters, where 30 world records have been broken. Charter arrangements can be made through most major hotels and resorts and at most marinas. The big game fishing grounds are very close offshore from San Juan, making the capital an excellent place to hire a charter. A half-day of deep-sea fishing (4 hours) starts at around $550, while full-day charters begin at around $900. Most charters hold six passengers in addition to the crew.

In San Juan, experienced operators include Capt. Mike Benítez at Benítez Fishing Charters ( 787/723-2292), as well as Castillo Fishing Charters ( 787/726-5752) and Caribbean Outfitters ( 787/396-8346).

Rincón also has a number of deep-sea fishing charters, such as Makaira Fishing Charters ( 787/823-4391 or 299-7374) and Moondog Charters ( 787/823-3059).

In Palmas del Mar, which has some of the best year-round fishing in the Caribbean, you’ll find Capt. Bill Burleson (see “Palmas del Mar,” in chapter 10).

Golf

With nearly 30 golf courses, including several championship links, Puerto Rico is rightly called the “Scotland,” or the “golf capital,” of the Caribbean, especially because they have been designed by the likes of Robert Trent Jones, Sr., his son Rees Jones, Greg Norman, George and Tom Fazio, Jack Nicklaus, Arthur Hills, and Puerto Rico’s own Chi Chi Rodriguez.

Many of the courses are jewels of landscape architecture, running through verdant tropical forest and former coconut groves, or winding in dramatic switchbacks aside a breathtaking stretch of coast. Year-round summer weather and mostly gentle breezes add to the joy of playing here.

The bad news is it’s often quite expensive to tee off in Puerto Rico, with prices starting at $120 and ranging up to nearly $200.

There are some bargains, however, particularly the Berwind Country Club ( 787/876-5380) in Loiza (the closest course to San Juan) and the Punta Borinquén Golf Club, Rte. 107 ( 787/890-2987), 2 miles (3.2km) north of Aquadilla’s center. Berwind has a breathtaking setting on a former coconut plantation, while the Aguadilla course struts across a beautiful patch of coast.

The legendary Dorado courses are 35 minutes west of San Juan at the Dorado Beach Resort & Club ( 787/796-8961), the scene of world championships and legendarily difficult holes, making it still among the most challenging in the Caribbean. Jack Nicklaus rates the challenging 13th hole at the Dorado as one of the top 10 in the world. See chapter 6 for more details.

Río Grande, however, is becoming as important a center for golf as Dorado. The Wyndham Río Mar Beach Resort golf offerings ( 787/888-7060) have world-class rainforest and coastal courses, designed, respectively, by Greg Norman and Tom and George Fazio. The Trump International Golf Club ( 787/657-2000) is actually four different 9-hole courses sprawled out across 1,200 acres (486 hectares) of coast. Each course is named after its surrounding environment: the Ocean, the Palms, the Mountains, and the Lakes. Also in town is the Bahia Beach course ( 787/957-5800), recently renovated as part of a new St. Regis resort development, with some purists touting it as among the best yet.

Also, on the east coast, holes 11 through 15 at the Golf Club at Palmas del Mar have been called the toughest 5 successive holes in the Caribbean. At El Conquistador Resort & Golden Door Spa,the spectacular oceanfront resort at Las Croabas, east of San Juan, you play along 200-foot (61m) changes in elevation that provide panoramic vistas.

There are now golf courses along the south coast, in Coamo and Ponce, as well as the southwest in Cabo Rojo. These are a needed complement to the north-coast courses. The Costa Caribe Golf & Country Club ( 787/848-1000 or 812-2650), on the site of the Hilton Ponce Golf & Casino (see chapter 7), commands views of the ocean and mountains; while the Club Deportivo del Oeste, Hwy. 102, Km 15.4, Barrio Jogudas, Cabo Rojo ( 787/851-8880 or 254-3748), is more no-frills.

Hiking

The mountainous interior of Puerto Rico provides ample opportunities for hill climbing and nature treks. These are especially appealing because panoramas open at the least-expected moments, often revealing spectacular views of the distant sea.

The most popular, most beautiful, and most spectacular trekking spot is El Yunque, the sprawling “jungle” maintained by the U.S. Forest Service and the only rainforest on U.S. soil.

El Yunque is part of the Caribbean National Forest, which lies a 45-minute drive east of San Juan. More than 250 species of trees and some 200 types of ferns have been identified here. Some 60 species of birds inhabit El Yunque, including the increasingly rare Puerto Rican parrot. Such rare birds as the elfin woods warbler, the green mango hummingbird, and the Puerto Rican lizard-cuckoo live here.

Park rangers have clearly marked the trails that are ideal for walking. See “El Yunque,” in chapter 6, for more details.

A lesser forest, but one that is still intriguing to visit, is the Maricao State Forest, near the coffee town of Maricao. This forest is in western Puerto Rico, east of the town of Mayagüez. For more details, see “Mayagüez,” in chapter 8.

Ponce is the best center for exploring some of the greatest forest reserves in the Caribbean Basin, notably Toro Negro Forest Reserve with its Lake Guineo (the lake at the highest elevation on the island); the Guánica State Forest, ideal for hiking and bird-watching; and the Carite Forest Reserve, a 6,000-acre (2,428-hectare) park known for its dwarf forest. For more details, see “Ponce,” in chapter 7.

Equally suitable for hiking are the protected lands (especially the Río Camuy Cave Park) whose topography is characterized as “karst”—that is, limestone riddled with caves, underground rivers, and natural crevasses and fissures. Although these regions pose additional risks and technical problems for trekkers, some people prefer the opportunities they provide for exploring the territory both above and below its surface. See “Arecibo & Camuy,” in chapter 6, for details about the Río Camuy Caves.

Outdoor Adventure

If you’d like to experience Puerto Rico on horseback, Hacienda Caribalí (www.haciendacaribalipuertorico.com; 787/889-5829 or 690-3781) offers 2-hour tours on majestic Paso Fino horses that take riders along the Mamayes River in the shadow of El Yunque rainforest for $60. The 600-acre (243-hectare) ranch also offers four-wheelers and mountain bike tours, and has a go-kart track. If you are way out west, check out Julie, the cowgirl of Rincón, at Pintos ‘R’ Us ( 787/516-7090). The 2-hour horseback ride tour ($55 per person) is a fabulous ride through gorgeous beach and coastal headlands, winding country roads, and forested mountain paths. Julie is a friendly and fun guide, enthusiastic about the sport and the wonders of Rincón, and her horses are one smooth ride. Tropical Trail Rides (www.tropicaltrailrides.com; 787/872-9256) gives beach tours on Paso Fino horses at a beautiful locale in Isabela, which also has cavernous cliffs and tropical forests, as well as at the 2,200 acre Hacienda Campo Rico in Carolina, in the San Juan metropolitan area. There are a number of tours, including a sunset ride, but most last 2 hours. Prices start at $40.

Several other tour operators cater to special tastes, including Castillo Tours & Travel Service, 2413 Laurel St., Punta Las Marias, Santurce (www.castillotours.com; 787/791-6195), which is known for some of the best deep-sea fishing, rainforest, and catamaran tours.

AdvenTours, Luquillo (www.adventourspr.com; 787/530-8311), features customized private tours that include such activities as bird-watching, hiking, camping, visits to coffee plantations, and kayaking.

Eco Xcursion Aquatica, Rte. 191, Km 1.7, Rio Grande, Fajardo ( 787/888-2887), offers some of the best rainforest hikes and mountain-bike tours, both for individuals and groups. They also offer kayak tours to one of several Bioluminescent Bays ★★ in Fajardo, where you enter the water at dusk and paddle through calm water teeming with small marine organisms that respond to the slightest touch by glowing an eerie greenish yellow. Las Tortugas Adventures, P.O. Box 1637, Canóvanas (www.kayak-pr.com; 787/809-0253 or 637-8356), also runs tours to Fajardo’s bio bay, as well as river tours of the rainforest and Piñones wetlands, and kayaking/snorkeling trips to deserted beaches, rimmed with reefs and teeming schools of tropical fish. Aventuras Tierra Adentro (www.aventuraspr.com; 787/766-0470) offers the best island adventure tours, focusing on hiking through virgin forests, rock climbing, or cliff jumping. Four different adventures are offered, costing $150 to $170 per person, which includes transportation from San Juan. Most of the jaunts take place on weekends.

Scuba Diving & Snorkeling

Scuba Diving The continental shelf, which surrounds Puerto Rico on three sides, is responsible for an abundance of coral reefs, caves, sea walls, and trenches for scuba diving and snorkeling.

Open-water reefs off the southeastern coast near Humacao are visited by migrating whales and manatees. Many caves are located near Isabela on the west coast. A large canyon off the island’s south coast is ideal for experienced open-water divers. Caves and the sea wall at La Parguera are also favorites. Vieques and Culebra islands have coral formations. Mona Island offers unspoiled reefs at depths averaging 80 feet (24m), with an amazing array of sea life. Uninhabited islands, such as Icacos, off the northeastern coast near Fajardo, are also popular with snorkelers and divers alike.

These sites are now within reach, because many of Puerto Rico’s dive operators and resorts offer packages that include daily or twice-daily dives, scuba equipment, instruction, and excursions to Puerto Rico’s popular attractions.

Introductory courses for beginners start at $125, and two-tank dives for experienced divers begin at around $85, but most cost at least $125.

In San Juan, try Caribe Aquatic Adventures, Calle 19 1062, Villa Nevarez ( 787/281-8858), or Ocean Sports (Av. Isla Verde 77; 787/268-2329).

Diving off the east, southwest, or northwest coasts is more rewarding, however.

In Rincón, there’s Taíno Divers, Black Eagle Marina at Rincón ( 787/823-6429), which offers trips to the waters surrounding Desecheo Island natural reserve.

The ocean wall in the southwest is famous, with visibility ranging from 100 to 120 feet (30–37m) and reefs filled with abundant sea life. Paradise Scuba Center, Hotel Casa Blanca Building, at La Parguera ( 787/899-7611), and Mona Aquatics, Calle José de Diego, Boquerón ( 787/851-2185), are two good operators in the area.

In Guánica, Island Scuba ( 787/309-6556) provides direct service to the Copamarina Beach Resort and also attends customers at its local site in Playa Santa. It’s actually the closest operator to many of the area’s famed dive sites.

The Dive Center at the Wyndham Rio Mar Beach Resort ( 787/888-6000) is one of the largest in Puerto Rico.

(See “Diving, Fishing, Tennis & Other Outdoor Pursuits,” in chapter 5, for more details.)

Elsewhere on the island, several other companies offer scuba and snorkeling instruction. We provide details in each chapter.

Snorkeling Because of its overpopulation, the waters around San Juan aren’t the most ideal for snorkeling. In fact, the entire north shore of Puerto Rico fronts the Atlantic, where the waters are often turbulent.

Yet there are some protected areas along the north coast that make for fine snorkeling, even in surf capitals such as Rincón and Aguadilla. Many of the best surfing beaches in winter turn into a snorkeler’s paradise in summer when the waves calm down.

The most ideal conditions for snorkeling in Puerto Rico are along the shores of the remote islands of Vieques and Culebra (see chapter 11).

The best snorkeling on the main island is found near the town of Fajardo, to the east of San Juan and along the tranquil eastern coast (see chapter 9).

The calm, glasslike quality of the clear Caribbean along the south shore is also ideal for snorkeling. The most developed tourist mecca here is the city of Ponce. Few rivers empty their muddy waters into the sea along the south coast, resulting in gin-clear waters offshore. You can snorkel off the coast without having to go on a boat trip. One good place is at Playa La Parguera, where you can rent snorkeling equipment from kiosks along the beach. This beach lies east of the town of Guánica, to the east of Ponce. Here tropical fish add to the brightness of the water, which is generally turquoise. The addition of mangrove cays in the area also makes La Parguera more alluring for snorkelers. Another good spot for snorkelers is Caja de Muertos off the coast of Ponce. Here a lagoon coral reef boasts a large number of fish species.

Even if you are staying in San Juan and want to go snorkeling, you are better off taking a day trip to Fajardo, where you’ll get a real Caribbean snorkeling experience, with tranquil, clear water and stunning reefs teaming with tropical fish. Several operators offer day trips (10am–3:30pm) leaving from Fajardo marinas, but transportation to and from your San Juan hotel can also be arranged. Prices start at around $99 (see “Boating & Sailing,” earlier in this chapter).

Surfing

Puerto Rico’s northwest beaches attract surfers from around the world. Called the “Hawaii of the East,” Puerto Rico has hosted a number of international competitions. October through February are the best surfing months, but the sport is enjoyed in Puerto Rico from August through April. The most popular areas are from Isabela to Rincón—at beaches such as Wilderness, Middles, Jobos, Crashboat, Las Marías, and the Spanish Wall.

There are surf spots across the entire north coast from San Juan to the northwest, including Los Tubos in Vega Baja.

San Juan itself has great surfing spots, including La 8, just outside of Old San Juan in Puerta de Tierra, near Escambrón Beach, which has some of the largest waves. Pine Grove in Isla Verde is a great spot to learn, because of the small, steady, well-formed waves there.

International competitions held in Puerto Rico have included the 1968 and 1988 World Amateur Surfing Championships and the annual Caribbean Cup Surfing Championship. Currently, Corona sponsors an annual competition circuit taking place in Isabela and Rincón.

If you want to learn to surf, or perfect your technique while in Puerto Rico, it’s quite easy.

Operating right near the Ritz-Carlton and Courtyard Marriott hotels in Isla Verde, the best surf lessons are given by professional surfer William Sue-A-Quan at his Walking on Water Surfing School (www.gosurfpr.com; 787/955-6059). He and a few associates work right on the beach at Pine Grove and also offer lessons through the Ritz-Carlton. He’s a great teacher, and takes on students as young as 5 and as old as 75.

Rincón also has many surf schools, some of which book packages including lodgings. You can’t do better than Ramses Morales at Surf Lessons and Adventure Co. (www.surflessonspuertorico.com; 787/617-4731), a local pro who is a naturally gifted teacher, for beginners or more advanced surfers. The Rincón Surf School (P.O. Box 1333, Rincón; 787/823-0610) offers beginner lessons and weeklong packages. Puntas Surf School (P.O. Box 4319, HC-01 Calle Vista del Mar; 787/823-3618 or 207/251-1154) is another good option, run by Melissa Taylor and Bill Woodward. Group lessons (for four) start at $35 per hour; private $45.

Board rentals are available at many island surf shops, with prices starting at $25 a day. We list them in subsequent chapters.

Windsurfing

The best windsurfing is found at Punta Las Marias in the Greater San Juan metropolitan area. Other spots on the island for windsurfing include Santa Isabel, Guánica, and La Parguera in the south; Jobos and Shacks in the northwest; and the island of Culebra off the eastern coast.

Kite-boarding is becoming increasingly popular as well. Watch them fly through the choppy waters off Ocean Park in San Juan.

Lessons, advice, and equipment rental is available at Velauno, Calle Loíza 2430, Punta Las Marias in San Juan ( 787/728-8716).

Food & Wine Trips

Puerto Rico has matured substantially as a culinary destination in recent years, and the tourism industry promotional material about the gastronomic flowering here is no idle boast. There are numerous opportunities for unpretentious, delicious street food and local cooking, as well as gourmet versions of comida criolla classics. San Juan, and, increasingly, the rest of the island, really shows its chops as a culinary crossroads. There is great Lebanese, Italian, French, Mexican, Asian, and Spanish cooking, and fresh seafood restaurants as well. And local culinary stars pack real flavor behind the sizzle at their trendy restaurants, which are usually a fusion play off of Puerto Rican or greater Latino cuisine. There is no organized culinary trip per se, but you could choose to visit during one of the annual food festivals such as Old San Juan SoFo Culinary Fest (in June; www.tastecuisine.net), when restaurants on and near South Fortaleza Street open up their doors for sampling; or Saborea (in early Apr; www.saboreapuertorico.com), a culinary party of restaurant booths and Food Network chef demos set up along Escambrón Beach.

Also for our listing of the Flavors of San Juan noshing tour in Old San Juan (www.flavorsofsanjuan.com; 787/964-2447).

Gourmands will find more than enough to satiate their cravings in the preceding pages: from Old City restaurants to mountain country barbecue to beach shacks. Local chefs also occasional give cooking demonstrations in San Juan.

Guided Tours

An escorted tour is a structured group tour with a group leader. The price usually includes everything from airfare to hotel, meals, tours, admission costs, and local transportation.

Puerto Rico Tours, Condo Inter-Suite, Ste. 5M, on Isla Verde in San Juan (www.puertorico-tours.com; 787/306-1540 or 791-5479), offers specially conducted private sightseeing tours of Puerto Rico, including trips to the rainforest, Luquillo Beach, the caves of Camuy, and other attractions, such as a restored Taíno Indian village.

Backstage Partners (www.backstagepartners.com; 787/791-0099) offers customized tours that take in a wide range of island attractions, including eco-tours, deep-sea fishing, scuba diving and snorkeling, safaris, and golf packages.

Other leading escorted tour operators include Atlantic San Juan Tours (www.puertoricoexcursions.com; 787/644-9841), which helps you take in all the major sights of the island from Ponce to El Yunque; and Sunshine Tours (www.puerto-rico-sunshinetours.com; 866/785-3636), which covers much the same ground as the others. Legends of Puerto Rico (www.legendsofpr.com; 787/605-9060) hosts personalized tours, specializing in entertaining cultural and nature adventure tours.

Volunteer & Working Trips

Rico Suntours ( 787/722-2080) and Travel Services, Inc. ( 787/982-1200) organize volunteer and philanthropic tours and other activities for groups and individuals. Options include participating in a community project in the coastal town of Piñones and then taking a kayak or bicycle tour run by community-based outfits. Other tours include working with a facility that provides food and services to San Juan’s homeless populations and local organizations helping stray cats and dogs. You can adopt a dog through the Save A Sato Foundation (www.saveasato.org). Animal lovers should realize that Puerto Rican satos (mutts) are the loyalist, friendliest dogs known to man. If you are visiting in spring and want to help guard nesting sites of rare leatherback and other sea turtles, contact the local Sierra Club chapter (www.puertorico.sierraclub.org) or Culebra-based Coralations (www.coralations.org).

Walking Tours

Legends of Puerto Rico (www.legendsofpr.com; 787/605-9060) offers day and evening walking tours of Old San Juan.

Puerto Rico

Area Codes Puerto Rico has two area codes: the more common 787 and the newer 939. The codes are not geographically-specific. For all calls on the island, the area code must be used.

Business Hours Offices are generally open 9am to 5pm Monday through Friday, but most institutions are open Saturday for at least a half day. Stores are generally open from 9am to 6pm or 1am to 7pm Monday through Saturday, Sunday 11am through 6pm. Most malls and big box retailers are open 9am to 9pm Monday to Saturday, 11am to 7pm on Sundays. Normal banking hours are 8am to 5pm Monday through Friday and 8:30am to noon on Saturday. Most banks have some branches with extended hours, open all day Saturday and on Sundays from 11 to 4pm, as well as extended evening hours to 6pm.

Car Rental See “Getting There by Car,” earlier in this chapter.

Cellphones See “Mobile Phones,” later in this section.

Crime See “Safety,” later in this section.

Customs U.S. citizens do not need to clear Puerto Rican Customs upon arrival by plane or ship from the U.S. mainland. Every visitor 21 years of age or older may bring in, free of duty, the following: (1) 1 U.S. quart of alcohol; (2) 200 cigarettes, 50 cigars (but not from Cuba), or 3 pounds of smoking tobacco; and (3) $100 worth of gifts. These exemptions are offered to travelers who spend at least 72 hours in the United States and who have not claimed them within the preceding 6 months. It is forbidden to bring into the country almost any meat products (including canned, fresh, and dried meat products such as bouillon, soup mixes, and so on). Generally, condiments including vinegars, oils, pickled goods, spices, coffee, tea, and some cheeses and baked goods are permitted. Avoid rice products, as rice can often harbor insects. Bringing fruits and vegetables is prohibited, as they may harbor pests or disease. International visitors may carry in or out up to $10,000 in U.S. or foreign currency with no formalities; larger sums must be declared to U.S. Customs on entering or leaving, which includes filing form CM 4790. On departure, U.S.-bound travelers must have their luggage inspected by the U.S. Department of Agriculture, because laws prohibit bringing fruits and plants to the U.S. mainland. Fruits and vegetables are not allowed, but otherwise, you can bring back as many purchased goods as you want without paying duty.

For details regarding U.S. Customs and Border Protection, consult your nearest U.S. embassy or consulate, or U.S. Customs (www.customs.gov).

For more information on what you can bring home:

U.S. Citizens: U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave., NW, Washington, DC 20229 (www.cbp.gov; 877/287-8667).

Canadian Citizens: Canada Border Services Agency, Ottawa, Ontario, K1A 0L8 (www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca; 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500).

U.K. Citizens: HM Customs & Excise, Crownhill Court, Tailyour Road, Plymouth, PL6 5BZ (www.hmce.gov.uk; 0845/010-9000; from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152). For information on importation of plants or animals, see the Department for Food, Environment, and Rural Affairs (DEFRA) website (www.defra.gov.uk/foodfarm/food/personal-import/topics/faq.htm).

Australian Citizens: Australian Customs Service, Customs House, 5 Constitution Ave., Canberra City, ACT 2601 (www.customs.gov.au; 1300/363-263; from outside Australia, 612/6275-6666).

New Zealand Citizens: New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17–21 Whitmore St., P.O. Box 2218, Wellington, 6140 (www.customs.govt.nz; 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786).

Disabled Travelers Most disabilities shouldn’t stop anyone from traveling. There are more options and resources out there today than ever before.

The Americans with Disabilities Act is enforced as strictly in Puerto Rico as it is on the U.S. mainland—in fact, a telling example of the act’s enforcement can be found in Ponce, where the sightseeing trolleys are equipped with ramps and extra balustrades to accommodate travelers with disabilities. Unfortunately, hotels rarely give much publicity to the facilities they offer persons with disabilities, so it’s always wise to contact the hotel directly, in advance, if you need special facilities. Tourist offices usually have little data about such matters.

You can obtain a free copy of Air Transportation of Handicapped Persons, published by the U.S. Department of Transportation. Write for Free Advisory Circular No. AC12032, Distribution Unit, U.S. Department of Transportation, Publications Division, 3341Q 75 Ave., Landover, MD 20785. No phone requests are accepted, but you can write for a copy of the publication or download it for free at http://isddc.dot.gov.

The U.S. National Park Service offers a Golden Access Passport that gives free lifetime entrance to U.S. national parks, including those in Puerto Rico, for persons who are blind or have permanent disabilities, regardless of age. You can pick up a Golden Access Passport at any NPS entrance-fee area by showing proof of medically determined disability and eligibility for receiving benefits under federal law. Besides free entry, the Golden Access Passport also offers a 50% discount on federal-use fees charged for such facilities as camping, swimming, parking, boat launching, and tours. For more information, go to www.nps.gov/fees_passes.htm, or call 888/467-2757.

Many travel agencies offer customized tours and itineraries for travelers with disabilities. Flying Wheels Travel (www.flyingwheelstravel.com; 507/451-5005) offers escorted tours and cruises that emphasize sports and private tours in minivans with lifts. Access-Able Travel Source (www.access-able.com; 303/232-2979) offers extensive access information and advice for traveling around the world with disabilities. Accessible Journeys (www.disabilitytravel.com; 800/846-4537 or 610/521-0339) caters specifically to slow walkers and wheelchair travelers and their families and friends.

Organizations that offer assistance to travelers with disabilities include Moss Rehab (www.mossresourcenet.org; 800/CALL-MOSS [800/225-5667]), which provides a library of accessible-travel resources online; the American Foundation for the Blind (AFB; www.afb.org; 800/232-5463 or 212/502-7600), a referral resource for the blind or visually impaired that includes information on traveling with Seeing Eye dogs; and SATH (Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality; www.sath.org; 212/447-7284; annual membership fees: $45 adults, $30 seniors and students), which offers a wealth of travel resources for all types of disabilities and informed recommendations on destinations, access guides, travel agents, tour operators, vehicle rentals, and companion services. AirAmbulanceCard.com is now partnered with SATH and allows you to preselect top-notch hospitals, in case of an emergency, for $195 a year ($295 per family), among other benefits.

For more information specifically targeted to travelers with disabilities, the community website iCan (www.icanonline.net) has destination guides and several regular columns on accessible travel. Also check out the quarterly magazine Emerging Horizons (www.emerginghorizons.com; $15 per year, $20 outside the U.S.); and Open World magazine, published by SATH (see above; subscription: $13 per year, $21 outside the U.S.).

A tip for British travelers: The Royal Association for Disability and Rehabilitation (RADAR), Unit 12, City Forum, 250 City Rd., London, EC1V 8AF (www.radar.org.uk; 020/7250-3222; fax 020/7250-0212), publishes information for travelers with disabilities.

Doctorsl Hotels will be able to recommend a good doctor, which are listed under “medicos” in the telephone directory. There are also several hospitals and other healthcare facilities in San Juan that have medical staff on site around the clock. Also see “Hospitals,” later in this section.

Drinking Laws The legal age for purchase and consumption of alcoholic beverages is 18; proof of age is required and often requested at bars, nightclubs, and restaurants, so it’s always a good idea to bring ID when you go out. Do not carry open containers of alcohol in your car or any public area that isn’t zoned for alcohol consumption. The police can fine you on the spot. Don’t even think about driving while intoxicated.

Driving Rules See “Getting Around,” earlier in this chapter.

Drugstores It’s a good idea to carry enough prescription medications with you to last the duration of your stay. If you’re going into the hinterlands, take along the medicines you’ll need. If you need any additional medications, you’ll find many drugstores in San Juan and other leading cities. One of the most centrally located pharmacies is Walgreens, 1130 Ashford Ave., Condado ( 787/725-1510), open 24 hours. There is at least one 24-hour Walgreens in every tourist district (Condado, Old San Juan, and Isla Verde), and they are linked with the U.S. chain for prescriptions. There are also locations throughout the island in major cities and shopping malls. Another option is the Puerto Rico Drug Co., Calle San Francisco 157 ( 787/725-2202), in Old San Juan, which is open daily from 7:30am to 9:30pm. A well-stocked CVS/pharmacy, Paseo Gilberto Concepcion de Gracia 105 ( 787/725-2500) is located near the cruise ship docks in Old San Juan and is open 7am to midnight daily.

Electricity Like Canada, the United States uses 110–120 volts AC (60 cycles), compared to 220–240 volts AC (50 cycles) in most of Europe, Australia, and New Zealand. Downward converters that change 220–240 volts to 110–120 volts are difficult to find in the United States, so bring one with you.

Embassies &Consulates All embassies are in the nation’s capital, Washington, D.C. Some consulates are in major U.S. cities, and most nations have a mission to the United Nations in New York City. If your country isn’t listed below, call for directory information in Washington, D.C. ( 202/555-1212), or check www.embassy.org/embassies.

The embassy of Australia is at 1601 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20036 (www.usa.embassy.gov.au; 202/797-3000). Consulates are in New York, Honolulu, Houston, Los Angeles, and San Francisco.

The embassy of Canada is at 501 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20001 (www.canadainternational.gc.ca/washington; 202/682-1740). Other Canadian consulates are in Buffalo (New York), Detroit, Los Angeles, New York City, and Seattle.

The embassy of Ireland is at 2234 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008 (www.embassyofireland.org; 202/462-3939). Irish consulates are in Boston, Chicago, New York City, San Francisco, and other cities. See website for complete listing.

The embassy of New Zealand is at 37 Observatory Circle NW, Washington, DC 20008 (www.nzembassy.com; 202/328-4800). New Zealand consulates are in Los Angeles, Salt Lake City, San Francisco, and Seattle.

The embassy of the United Kingdom is at 3100 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008 (http://ukinusa.fco.gov.uk; 202/588-6500). Other British consulates are in Atlanta, Boston, Chicago, Cleveland, Houston, Los Angeles, New York City, San Francisco, and Seattle.

Emergencies In an emergency, dial 911. Or call the local police ( 787/726-7020), fire department ( 787/725-3444), or medical emergency line ( 787/754-2550).

Family Travel Puerto Rico is an extremely family-friendly travel destination. Nearly all resorts court parents traveling with children as guests. In only a few cases did my own family find that not true of restaurants and lodgings, and I’ve pointed those out. To locate accommodations, restaurants, and attractions that are particularly kid-friendly, look for the “Kids” icon throughout this guide.

Gasoline Please see “Getting Around By Car,” earlier in this chapter.

Health Puerto Rico poses no major health problem for most travelers. If you have a chronic condition, however, you should check with your doctor before visiting the islands. For conditions such as epilepsy, diabetes, or heart problems, wear a MedicAlert Identification Tag (www.medicalert.org; 800/825-3785), which will immediately alert doctors to your condition and give them access to your records through MedicAlert’s 24-hour hot line.

Finding a good doctor in Puerto Rico is easy, and most speak English. See “Hospitals” for the locations of hospitals.

If you worry about getting sick away from home, consider purchasing medical travel insurance and carry your ID card in your purse or wallet. In most cases, your existing health plan will provide the coverage you need. See “Insurance” for more information.

Pack prescription medications in your carry-on luggage, and carry prescription medications in their original containers. Also bring along copies of your prescriptions, in case you lose your medication or run out. Carry the generic name of prescription medicines, in case a local pharmacist is unfamiliar with the brand name.

And don’t forget sunglasses and an extra pair of contact lenses or prescription glasses.

Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT; www.iamat.org; 716/754-4883 or, in Canada, 416/652-0137) for tips on travel and health concerns in the countries you’re visiting, and for lists of local, English-speaking doctors. The United States Centers for Disease Control and Prevention ( 800/311-3435; www.cdc.gov) provides up-to-date information on health hazards by region or country and offers tips on food safety. The website www.tripprep.com, sponsored by a consortium of travel medicine practitioners, may also offer helpful advice on traveling abroad. You can find listings of reliable clinics overseas at the International Society of Travel Medicine (www.istm.org).

It’s best to stick to bottled water here. Although tap water is said to be safe to drink, many visitors experience diarrhea, even if they follow the usual precautions. The illness usually passes quickly without medication, if you eat simply prepared food and drink only bottled water until you recover. If symptoms persist, consult a doctor.

The sun can be brutal, especially if you haven’t been exposed to it in some time. Experts advise that you limit your time on the beach the first day. If you do overexpose yourself, stay out of the sun until you recover. If your exposure is followed by fever or chills, a headache, or a feeling of nausea or dizziness, see a doctor.

Sandflies (or “no-see-ums”) can still be a problem in Puerto Rico but are not the menace they are in other Caribbean destinations. They appear mainly in the early evening, and even if you can’t see these tiny bugs, you sure can “feel-um.” Your favorite insect repellent will protect you from them, should they become a problem.

Although mosquitoes are a nuisance, they do not carry malaria in Puerto Rico. However, after a long absence, the dreaded dengue fever has returned to Puerto Rico. The disease is transmitted by the Aede mosquito, and its symptoms include fever, headaches, pain in the muscles and joints, skin blisters, and hemorrhaging. It usually is gone after a week but the strongest cases are fatal.

Hookworm and other intestinal parasites are relatively common in the Caribbean, though you are less likely to be affected in Puerto Rico than on other islands. Hookworm can be contracted by just walking barefoot on an infected beach. Schistosomiasis (also called bilharzia), caused by a parasitic fluke, can be contracted by submerging your feet in rivers and lakes infested with a certain species of snail.

Like major urban areas along the East Coast, Puerto Rico has been hard hit by AIDS and other sexually transmitted diseases. Exercise at least the same caution in choosing your sexual partners and practicing safe sex as you would at home.

Hospitals In a medical emergency, call 911. Ashford Presbyterian Community Hospital, Av. Ashford 1451, San Juan ( 787/721-2160), maintains 24-hour emergency service and is the most convenient to the major tourism districts. Another option is Pavia Hospital, 1462 C. Asia, Santurce ( 787/727-6060). Service is also provided at Clinica Las Americas, Franklin Delano Roosevelt Ave. 400, Hato Rey ( 787/765-1919), and at Puerto Rico Medical Center, Av. Americo Miranda, Río Piedras ( 787/777-3535).

Insurance Most health insurance policies cover you if you get sick away from home, but they are not likely to provide for medical evacuation in case of life-threatening injury or illness. It’s a good idea to buy a travel insurance policy that provides for emergency medical evacuation. If you have to buy a one-way same-day ticket home and forfeit your nonrefundable round-trip ticket, you might be out big bucks. And the cost of a flying ambulance could wipe out your life’s savings.

Check with your insurer, particularly if you’re insured by an HMO, about the extent of its coverage while you’re overseas. With the exception of certain HMOs and Medicare/Medicaid, your medical insurance should cover medical treatment—even hospital care—overseas. However, most out-of-country hospitals make you pay your bills up front, and they send you a refund after you’ve returned home and filed the necessary paperwork.

If you require additional insurance, try one of the following companies:

• MEDEX International (www.medexassist.com; 888/MEDEX-00 [633-3900] or 410/453-6300; fax 410/453-6301).

• Travel Assistance International (www.travelassistance.com; 800/821-2828); for general information on services, call the company’s Worldwide Assistance Services, Inc. at 800/777-8710.

• The Divers Alert Network (DAN; www.diversalertnetwork.org; 800/446-2671 or 919/684-2948).

On domestic flights, checked baggage is covered up to $3,300 per ticketed passenger. On international flights (including U.S. portions of international trips), baggage coverage is limited to approximately $9.07 per pound, up to approximately $635 per checked bag. If you plan to check items more valuable than what’s covered by the standard liability, see if your homeowner’s policy covers your valuables, or get baggage insurance as part of your comprehensive travel-insurance package. Don’t buy insurance at the airport, where it’s usually overpriced. Be sure to take any valuables or irreplaceable items with you in your carry-on luggage, because many valuables (including books, money, and electronics) aren’t covered by airline policies.

If your luggage is lost, immediately file a lost-luggage claim at the airport, detailing the luggage contents. Most airlines require that you report delayed, damaged, or lost baggage within 4 hours of arrival. The airlines are required to deliver luggage, once found, directly to your house or destination free of charge.

For information on traveler’s insurance, trip cancellation insurance, and medical insurance while traveling, please visit www.frommers.com/planning.

Internet & Wi-Fi Free Wi-Fi connections are widely available, from Old San Juan’s Plaza de Armas to Starbucks to local Burger King and McDonald’s outlets throughout the island. Many hotels and guesthouses also have public computers for use by guests, and there are Internet cafes throughout the city (such as the Cybernet Café, Av. Ashford 1128, Condado; www.cybernetcafepr.com). Many public plazas have Wi-Fi service, and public libraries also have Internet areas. Free Wi-Fi spots abound at shopping centers, hotels, and restaurants.

Language English is understood at the big resorts and in most of San Juan. Out in the island, Spanish is still numero uno.

Legal Aid While driving, if you are pulled over for a minor infraction (such as speeding), never attempt to pay the fine directly to a police officer; this could be construed as attempted bribery, a much more serious crime. Pay fines by mail, or directly into the hands of the clerk of the court. If accused of a more serious offense, say and do nothing before consulting a lawyer. In the U.S., the burden is on the state to prove a person’s guilt beyond a reasonable doubt, and everyone has the right to remain silent, whether he or she is suspected of a crime or actually arrested. Once arrested, a person can make one telephone call to a party of his or her choice. The international visitor should call his or her embassy or consulate.

LGBT Travelers Puerto Rico is the most gay-friendly destination in the Caribbean, with lots of accommodations, restaurants, clubs, and bars that actively cater to a gay clientele.

A good source is www.orgulloboricua.net, which is a Web portal for the island’s gay and lesbian community; it has an introduction for visitors in English. In Spanish is the radio show/Web blog www.saliendodelcloset.org, which involves leading figures in the gay community and has links to several points of interest.

The International Gay & Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA; www.iglta.org; 800/448-8550 or 954/776-2626) links travelers up with gay-friendly hoteliers, tour operators, and airline and cruise-line representatives. It offers monthly newsletters, marketing mailings, and a membership directory that’s updated once a year. Membership is $225 yearly, plus a $100 administration fee for new members.

Above and Beyond Tours (www.abovebeyondtours.com; 800/397-2681) offers gay and lesbian tours worldwide and is the exclusive gay and lesbian tour operator for United Airlines.

Now, Voyager (www.nowvoyager.com; 800/255-6951) is a San Francisco–based gay-owned and -operated travel service.

Olivia Cruises & Resorts (www.olivia.com; 800/631-6277) charters entire resorts and ships for exclusive lesbian vacations and offers smaller group experiences for both gay and lesbian travelers. (In 2005, tennis great Martina Navratilova was named Olivia’s official spokesperson.)

Gay.com Travel (www.gay.com/travel or www.outandabout.com; 800/929-2268 or 415/644-8044) is an excellent online successor to the popular Out & About print magazine.

The following travel guides are available at many bookstores, or you can order them from any online bookseller: Spartacus International Gay Guide (Bruno Gmünder Verlag; www.spartacusworld.com/gayguide) and Odysseus: The International Gay Travel Planner (Odysseus Enterprises Ltd.), both good, annual, English-language guidebooks focused on gay men; and the Damron guides (www.damron.com), with separate, annual books for gay men and lesbians.

Mail At press time, domestic postage rates are 45¢ for a letter. For international mail, a first-class letter of up to 1 ounce starts at 85¢ (the rate for both Canada and Mexico); a first-class postcard costs the same as a letter. For more information, go to www.usps.com.

If you aren’t sure what your address will be in the United States, mail can be sent to you, in your name, c/o General Delivery at the main post office of the city or region where you expect to be. (Call 800/275-8777 for information on the nearest post office.) The addressee must pick up mail in person and must produce proof of identity (driver’s license, passport, etc.). Most post offices will hold mail for up to 1 month, and are open Monday to Friday from 8am to 6pm, and Saturday from 9am to 3pm.

Medical Requirements Unless you’re arriving from an area known to be suffering from an epidemic (particularly cholera or yellow fever), inoculations or vaccinations are not required for entry into the United States.

Mobile Phones Major carriers with a presence in the U.S., market, such as AT&T, Sprint, and T-Mobile, also battle it out in the island’s competitive wireless market. Prices are low, and coverage is very good, even out at sea. Each carrier maintains a network and all are investing in network upgrades, with AT&T out front in the race for a 4-G network, and all are GSM networks.

Check with your carrier to see if Puerto Rico is included in national calling plans, which usually offer unlimited calling and roaming. Most do. Puerto Rico subscribers of all major carriers have the option of enrolling in a national calling plan that includes calls and free roaming to the United States mainland.

Calls can also be placed through Skype and other VoIP services via the Internet.

Cellular telephones can be purchased at RadioShack, Walgreens, and other stores listed throughout the guide. They come loaded with minutes and can be used on the spot and cost as little as $35. Refill cards are sold everywhere, from major grocery stores to gas stations. Internet access, such as wide-spread, high-powered Wi-Fi service, is so great that Web-based options like Skype can be used to stay in touch, especially if your smart phone has that Wi-Fi option.

Money & Costs

Frommer’s lists exact prices in the local currency. The currency conversions quoted above were correct at press time. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/currency/converter to check up-to-the-minute rates.

ATMs The U.S. banking presence has markedly diminished on the island in recent years, but island banks, led by Banco Popular, are hooked into the U.S. banking system, use the same ATM networks, and have the same fee structures. Many have a presence on the U.S. mainland. Spanish and Canadian banks also have a presence.

ATMs are linked to a network that most likely includes your bank at home. Cirrus (www.mastercard.com; 800/424-7787) and PLUS (www.visa.com; 800/843-7587) are the two most popular networks in the U.S.; call or check online for ATM locations at your destination.

Credit Cards Credit cards are invaluable when you’re traveling. They are a safe way to carry money and provide a convenient record of all your expenses. You can also withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at any bank (though you’ll start paying hefty interest on the advance the moment you receive the cash). At most banks, you don’t even need to go to a teller; you can get a cash advance at the ATM if you know your PIN. If you’ve forgotten yours, or didn’t even know you had one, call the number on the back of your credit card and ask the card issuer to send it to you. It usually takes 5 to 7 business days, though some banks will provide the number over the phone if you tell them your mother’s maiden name or pass some other security clearance test.

In San Juan and at all the big resorts on the island, even some of the smaller inns, credit cards are commonly accepted. Moreover, an incredible array of establishments accept payment with ATM cards. However, as you tour through rural areas and if you intend to patronize small, out-of-the-way establishments, it’s still wise to carry sufficient greenbacks for emergencies. Visa and MasterCard are accepted most widely throughout Puerto Rico.

Beware of hidden credit-card fees while traveling. Check with your credit or debit card issuer to see what fees, if any, will be charged for overseas transactions. Recent reform legislation in the U.S., for example, has curbed some exploitative lending practices. But many banks have responded by increasing fees in other areas, including fees for customers who use credit and debit cards while out of the country—even if those charges were made in U.S. dollars. Fees can amount to 3% or more of the purchase price. Check with your bank before departing to avoid any surprise charges on your statement.

Currency The U.S. dollar is the coin of the realm. Keep in mind that once you leave Ponce or San Juan, you might have difficulty finding a place to exchange foreign money (unless you’re staying at a large resort), so it’s wise to handle your exchange needs before you head off into rural parts of Puerto Rico.

Currency Exchange There is a currency exchange at Luis Muñoz Marín International Airport and at large bank branches such as Banco Popular.

Traveler’s Checks Traveler’s checks are something of an anachronism from the days before the ATM made cash accessible at any time. Even given the fees you’ll pay for ATM use at banks other than your own, it is still probably a better bet than traveler’s checks.

You can get traveler’s checks at almost any bank. American Express offers denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500, and (for cardholders only) $1,000. You’ll pay a service charge ranging from 1% to 4%. You can also get American Express traveler’s checks over the phone by calling 800/221-7282; Amex gold and platinum cardholders who use this number are exempt from the 1% fee.

Visa offers traveler’s checks at Citibank locations nationwide, as well as at several other banks. The service charge ranges between 1% and 2%; checks come in denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500, and $1,000. Call 800/732-1322 for information. AAA members can obtain Visa checks for a $9.95 fee (for checks, minimum of $300 up to $1,500) at most AAA offices or by calling 866/339-3378.

MasterCard also offers traveler’s checks. Call 800/223-9920 for a location near you.

Newspapers & Magazines Caribbean Business (www.caribbeanbusinesspr.com) is a weekly business newspaper that has the most up-to-date news on Puerto Rico in English. There is a weekly print edition but its website, with a mobile telephone version, is a constantly updated general news site. USA Today sells a local edition of its newspaper, with two pages of local and tourism news. If you read Spanish, you might enjoy El Nuevo Día, the most popular local tabloid. There is also El Vocero and Primera Hora. Few significant magazines are published on Puerto Rico, but Time and Newsweek are available at most newsstands.

Packing Puerto Ricans love to dress up and some restaurants and clubs have dress codes, so you should bring at least one outfit that can meet formal dress codes. Also, while the weather is warm year-round, it is advisable to bring a light jacket of sweater for air-conditioned restaurants and theaters. For more helpful information on packing for your trip, download our convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the Travel Tools icon.

Passports Because Puerto Rico is a commonwealth, U.S. citizens coming from mainland destinations do not need passports to enter Puerto Rico.

That said, it still is best to carry plenty of documentation. Be sure that your ID is up to date: An expired driver’s license or passport, for example, might keep you from boarding a plane.

Visitors from other countries, including Canada, need a valid passport to land in Puerto Rico. For those from countries requiring a visa to enter the U.S., the same visa is necessary to enter Puerto Rico.

Virtually every air traveler entering the U.S. is required to show a passport. All persons, including U.S. citizens, traveling by air between the United States and Canada, Mexico, Central and South America, the Caribbean, and Bermuda are required to present a valid passport. Note: U.S. and Canadian citizens entering the U.S. at land and sea ports of entry from within the western hemisphere must now also present a passport or other documents compliant with the Western Hemisphere Travel Initiative (WHTI; see www.getyouhome.gov for details). Children 15 and under may continue entering with only a U.S. birth certificate, or other proof of U.S. citizenship.

It is advised to always have at least one or two consecutive blank pages in your passport to allow space for visas and stamps that need to appear together. It is also important to note when your passport expires. Many countries require your passport to have at least 6 months left before its expiration in order to allow you into the destination.

• Australia Australian Passport Information Service (www.passports.gov.au; 131-232).

• Canada Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (www.ppt.gc.ca; 800/567-6868).

• Ireland Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (www.foreignaffairs.gov.ie; 01/671-1633).

• New Zealand Passports Office, Department of Internal Affairs, 47 Boulcott Street, Wellington, 6011 (www.passports.govt.nz; 0800/225-050 in New Zealand, or 04/474-8100).

• United Kingdom Visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the Identity and Passport Service (IPS), 89 Eccleston Square, London, SW1V 1PN (www.ips.gov.uk; 0300/222-0000).

• United States To find your regional passport office, check the U.S. State Department website (travel.state.gov/passport) or call the National Passport Information Center ( 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Petrol Please see “Getting Around by Car,” earlier in this chapter.

Police In an emergency, dial 911. Or call the local police ( 787/343-2020), fire department ( 787/725-3444), or medical emergency line ( 787/273-1862 [San Juan]), or toll-free 800/981-5645.

Safety The U.S. Department of State issues no special travel advisories for the Commonwealth of Puerto Rico, the way it might for, say, the more troubled island of Jamaica. However, there are crime problems in Puerto Rico, and violent crime fueled by drug trafficking has been on the rise. Still, crime rarely surfaces along San Juan’s Condado and Isla Verde beaches and Old San Juan. Caution is required at night, as muggings do happen, and isolated areas should be avoided.

Burglary, including vandalizing of automobiles, is another problem, so don’t leave valuables in cars, even when the doors are locked.

Take precautions about leaving valuables on the beach, and exercise extreme care if you’re searching for a remote beach where there’s no one in sight. The only person lurking nearby might be someone not interested in surf and sand but a robber waiting to make off with your possessions.

Avoid wandering around the darkened alleys and small streets of San Juan’s Old City at night, especially those off the oceanside Norzagaray Boulevard, which is relatively deserted at night.

If you are traveling out on the island, plan to do your driving during the daylight hours, both for road-safety and crime-precaution reasons. A wrong turn at midnight could lead to a whole lot of trouble of all stripes.

In short, crime exists here as it does everywhere. Use common sense and take precautions. Theft and occasional muggings do occur on the Condado and Isla Verde beaches at night, so you might want to confine your moonlit beach nights to the fenced-in and guarded areas around some of the major hotels. The countryside of Puerto Rico is safer than San Juan, but caution is always in order. Avoid narrow country roads and isolated beaches at night and exercise caution on them during the day.

Senior Travel Mention the fact that you’re a senior when you first make your travel reservations. All major airlines and many Puerto Rican hotels offer discounts for seniors.

Though much of the island’s sporting and nightlife activity is geared toward youthful travelers, Puerto Rico also has much to offer the senior. The best source of information for seniors is the Puerto Rico Tourism Company (see “Year-Round Festivals,” earlier), or, if you’re staying in a large resort hotel, talk to the activities director or the concierge.

Members of AARP, 601 E St. NW, Washington, DC 20049 ( 888/687-2277 or 202/434-2277; www.aarp.org), get discounts on hotels, airfares, and car rentals. AARP offers members a wide range of benefits, including AARP The Magazine and a monthly newsletter. Anyone 50 or older can join.

The U.S. National Park Service offers a Golden Age Passport that gives seniors 62 years or older lifetime entrance to U.S. national parks for a one-time processing fee of $10. The pass must be purchased in person at any NPS facility that charges an entrance fee. Besides free entry, a Golden Age Passport also offers a 50% discount on federal-use fees charged for such facilities as camping, swimming, parking, boat launching, and tours. For more information, click onto www.nps.gov, or call 888/467-2757.

Grand Circle Travel (www.gct.com; 800/221-2610 or 617/350-7500; fax 617/346-6700) offers package deals for the 50-plus market, mostly of the tour-bus variety, with free trips thrown in for those who organize groups of 10 or more.

SAGA Holidays (http://travel.saga.co.uk/holidays.aspx; 800/343-0273) offers tours and cruises for those 50 and older. SAGA also offers a number of single-traveler tours.

Recommended publications offering travel resources and discounts for seniors include: the quarterly magazine Travel 50 & Beyond (www.travel50andbeyond.com); Travel Unlimited: Uncommon Adventures for the Mature Traveler (Avalon); 101 Tips for Mature Travelers, available from Grand Circle Travel (www.gct.com; 800/221-2610 or 800/959-0405); and Unbelievably Good Deals and Great Adventures That You Absolutely Can’t Get Unless You’re Over 50 (McGraw-Hill), by Joan Rattner Heilman.

Smoking Stringent antismoking regulations have been passed banning smoking in all public areas including restaurants, bars, casinos, and hotel rooms. Enforcement, however, is less strict than other areas in the United States. Smoking is even banned at outdoor cafes that are serviced by waiters or waitresses, but this prohibition is often overlooked.

Taxes The United States has no value-added tax (VAT) or other indirect tax at the national level. Every state, county, and city may levy its own local tax on all purchases, including hotel and restaurant checks and airline tickets. These taxes will not appear on price tags. Puerto Rico levies a 7% sales and use tax on most major goods and services. All hotel rooms on Puerto Rico are subject to a 9% to 11% tax (paradores carry a 7% levy).

Telephones Many convenience, grocery, and retail postal service stores sell prepaid calling cards in denominations up to $50. Many public pay phones at airports now accept American Express, MasterCard, and Visa. Local calls made from most pay phones cost 75¢. Most long-distance and international calls can be dialed directly from any phone. To make calls within the United States and to Canada, dial 1 followed by the area code and the seven-digit number. For other international calls, dial 011 followed by the country code, city code, and the number you are calling.

Calls to area codes 800, 888, 877, and 866 are toll-free. However, calls to area codes 700 and 900 (chat lines, bulletin boards, “dating” services, and so on) can be expensive—charges of 95¢ to $3 or more per minute. Some numbers have minimum charges that can run $15 or more.

For reversed-charge or collect calls, and for person-to-person calls, dial the number 0 then the area code and number; an operator will come on the line, and you should specify whether you are calling collect, person-to-person, or both. If your operator-assisted call is international, ask for the overseas operator.

For directory assistance (Information), dial 411 for local numbers and national numbers in the U.S. and Canada. For dedicated long-distance information, dial 1, then the appropriate area code plus 555-1212.

Time Puerto Rico is in the Atlantic Time Zone, which is one hour ahead of Eastern Standard Time. However, because the island does not recognize Daylight Savings Time, it actually shares the same time as the U.S. East Coast when it celebrates DST, which is now 8 months, most of the year. The continental United States is divided into four time zones: Eastern Standard Time (EST), Central Standard Time (CST), Mountain Standard Time (MST), and Pacific Standard Time (PST). Alaska and Hawaii have their own zones. For example, when it’s 9am in Los Angeles (PST), it’s 7am in Honolulu (HST),10am in Denver (MST), 11am in Chicago (CST), noon in New York City (EST), 5pm in London (GMT), and 2am the next day in Sydney.

Daylight saving time (summer time) is in effect from 1am on the second Sunday in March to 1am on the first Sunday in November, except in Arizona, Hawaii, the U.S. Virgin Islands, and Puerto Rico. Daylight saving time moves the clock 1 hour ahead of standard time.

Tipping In hotels, tip bellhops at least $1 per bag ($2–$3 if you have a lot of luggage) and tip the chamber staff $1 to $2 per day (more if you’ve left a big mess for him or her to clean up). Tip the doorman or concierge only if he or she has provided you with some specific service (for example, calling a cab for you or obtaining difficult-to-get theater tickets). Tip the valet-parking attendant $1 every time you get your car.

In restaurants, bars, and nightclubs, tip service staff and bartenders 15% to 20% of the check, tip checkroom attendants $2 per garment, and tip valet-parking attendants $2 per vehicle.

As for other service personnel, tip cab drivers 15% of the fare; tip skycaps at airports at least $1 per bag ($2–$3 if you have a lot of luggage); and tip hairdressers and barbers 15% to 20%.

Toilets You won’t find public toilets or “restrooms” on the streets in most Puerto Rico cities but they can be found in hotel lobbies, bars, restaurants, museums, department stores, railway and bus stations, and service stations. Large hotels and fast-food restaurants are often the best bet for clean facilities. Public beaches, called balnearios, run by the commonwealth’s National Parks Company or by municipal governments, have restrooms, showers, and changing facilities. Restaurants and bars in resorts or heavily visited areas may reserve their restrooms for patrons.

VAT See “Taxes” earlier in this section.

Visas The U.S. State Department has a Visa Waiver Program (VWP) allowing citizens of the following countries to enter the United States without a visa for stays of up to 90 days: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Monaco, the Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, and the United Kingdom. (Note: This list was accurate at press time; for the most up-to-date list of countries in the VWP, consult http://travel.state.gov/visa.) Even though a visa isn’t necessary, in an effort to help U.S. officials check travelers against terror watch lists before they arrive at U.S. borders, visitors from VWP countries must register online through the Electronic System for Travel Authorization (ESTA) before boarding a plane or a boat to the U.S. Travelers must complete an electronic application providing basic personal and travel eligibility information. The Department of Homeland Security recommends filling out the form at least 3 days before traveling. Authorizations will be valid for up to 2 years or until the traveler’s passport expires, whichever comes first. Currently, there is a US$14 fee for the online application. Existing ESTA registrations remain valid through their expiration dates. Note: Any passport issued on or after October 26, 2006, by a VWP country must be an e-Passport for VWP travelers to be eligible to enter the U.S. without a visa. Citizens of these nations also need to present a round-trip air or cruise ticket upon arrival. E-Passports contain computer chips capable of storing biometric information, such as the required digital photograph of the holder. If your passport doesn’t have this feature, you can still travel without a visa if the valid passport was issued before October 26, 2005, and includes a machine-readable zone; or if the valid passport was issued between October 26, 2005, and October 25, 2006, and includes a digital photograph. For more information, go to http://travel.state.gov/visa. Canadian citizens may enter the United States without visas, but will need to show passports and proof of residence.

Citizens of all other countries must have (1) a valid passport that expires at least 6 months later than the scheduled end of their visit to the U.S.; and (2) a tourist visa.

For information about U.S. visas, go to http://travel.state.gov and click on “Visas.” Or go to one of the following websites:

Australian citizens can obtain up-to-date visa information from the U.S. Embassy Canberra, Moonah Place, Yarralumla, ACT 2600 ( 02/6214-5600) or by checking the U.S. Diplomatic Mission’s website at http://canberra.usembassy.gov/visas.html.

British subjects can obtain up-to-date visa information by calling the U.S. Embassy Visa Information Line ( 09042-450-100 from within the U.K. at £1.20 per minute; or 866-382-3589 from within the U.S. at a flat rate of $16, payable by credit card only) or by visiting the “Visas to the U.S.” section of the American Embassy London’s website at http://london.usembassy.gov/visas.html.

Irish citizens can obtain up-to-date visa information through the U.S. Embassy Dublin, 42 Elgin Rd., Ballsbridge, Dublin 4 (http://dublin.usembassy.gov; 1580-47-VISA [8472] from within the Republic of Ireland at €2.40 per minute).

Citizens of New Zealand can obtain up-to-date visa information by contacting the U.S. Embassy New Zealand, 29 Fitzherbert Terrace, Thorndon, Wellington (http://newzealand.usembassy.gov; 644/462-6000).

Visitor Information For information before you leave home, visit www.seepuertorico.com or contact the Puerto Rico Tourism Company offices at La Princesa Building, Paseo La Princesa 2, Old San Juan, PR 00902 ( 800/866-7827 or 787/721-2400).

Other Tourism Company offices are located at Luís Muñoz Marín Airport ( 787/791-1014), open December to April daily from 9am to 10pm, May to November daily 9am to 8pm; and La Casita, at Plaza de la Darsena, Old San Juan, near pier 1, where the cruise ships come in ( 787/722-1709). This office is open Saturday through Wednesday from 8:30am to 8pm, Thursday and Friday 8:30am to 5pm.

There are several tourism-related websites on Puerto Rico. Some of the best are dedicated to specific areas: The Tourism Association of Rincón (www.rincon.org), Enchanted Isles (www.enchanted-isle.com), and Discover Culebra (www.culebra-island.com). Puerto Rico Travel Maps (www.travelmaps.com) offers useful interactive and downloadable travel maps, while Eye Tour Puerto Rico (http://places.eyetour.com) offers travel videos of sites, attractions, hotels, and restaurants. Ask for a copy of Qué Pasa, the official visitors’ guide, which is distributed free at many hotels and restaurants. Bienvenidos, a publication of the Puerto Rico Hotel & Tourism Association, is also chock-full of up-to-date visitor information and is also distributed free at island hotels.

You might also want to contact the U.S. Department of State for regional background bulletins, which supply up-to-date information on crime, health concerns, import restrictions, and other travel matters. Write to the Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402 ( 866/512-1800 or 202/512-1800).

A good travel agent can be a source of information. Make sure your agent is a member of the American Society of Travel Agents (ASTA). If you get poor service from an ASTA member agent, you can write to them at 1101 King St., Alexandria, VA 22314 (www.astanet.com; 703/739-2782).

Water Although tap water is safe to drink, some visitors experience diarrhea, even if they follow the usual precautions. It’s best to stick to bottled water. The illness usually passes quickly without medication if you eat simply prepared food and drink only mineral water until you recover. If symptoms persist, consult a doctor.

Wi-Fi See “Internet & Wi-Fi,” earlier in this section.