The Test Kitchen’s Guide to Buying a Slow Cooker
Today’s slow cookers come in a wide array of sizes with lots of different features. In our recipe testing for this book, we found 5½- to 7-quart slow cookers to be the most versatile because they could accommodate a whole chicken or pork loin, the small springform pan and ramekins we used to make many desserts, as well as the soufflé dish we used for some dips and other recipes. That said, it can be handy to use a smaller slow cooker for recipes scaled for two (note that the larger slow cookers do work for smaller-batch recipes) and for many dips.
To find out which models performed best and which features really mattered, we tested seven large (6-quart capacity or more) and eight small (4-quart capacity) slow cookers, using the large models to prepare pot roast, meaty tomato sauce, and French onion soup and the small models to prepare chicken thighs in hearty tomato sauce, smothered steaks, and sweet-and-sour sticky ribs. In short, the features we liked included programmable timers, warming modes, and clear glass lids (which allow the cook to assess the food as it cooks). Inserts that have handles, which make it easy to remove the insert from the slow cooker, and that can be washed in the dishwasher earned extra points.
We rated each slow cooker on cooking ability and design. We also devised a test to measure the maximum temperatures of the models on high and low settings; we found that some models didn’t get hot enough, whereas others hovered around or hit the boiling point. The best models quickly brought food into the safe zone (above 140 degrees) then climbed slowly to the boiling point or just below it over a period of hours rather than reaching the boiling point right away and overcooking food. Our top four slow cookers are listed below in order of preference within each category.
LARGE SLOW COOKERS
KEY:
GOOD ****
FAIR ***
POOR *
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
CROCK-POT Touchscreen 6½-Quart Slow Cooker
MODEL: SCVT650-PS
PRICE: $129.99
CONTROLS: Digital programmable
CRITERIA
COOKING ***
DESIGN ***
TESTERS’ COMMENTS
The control panel is extremely easy to use, and the timer counted up to 20 hours, even on high. Sunday gravy thickened to the correct consistency, pot roast was tender and sliceable, and onions caramelized perfectly.
RECOMMENDED
ALL-CLAD 6½-Quart Slow Cooker with Ceramic Insert
MODEL: 99009
PRICE: $199.95
CONTROLS: Digital programmable
CRITERIA
COOKING ***
DESIGN **
TESTERS’ COMMENTS
Pot roast and gravy cooked to the correct consistency, and this model runs at the ideal temperature range. But we got equally good results from our top-ranked model at a much lower price. The button controls are easy to use, but the timer could not be set for more than 6 hours on high.
RECOMMENDED WITH RESERVATIONS
BREVILLE 7-Quart Slow Cooker with EasySear
MODEL: BSC 560XL
PRICE: $179.95
CONTROLS: Manual
CRITERIA
COOKING **
DESIGN **
TESTERS’ COMMENTS
Although this large cooker ran a bit hot, the tight seal of its metal lid yielded fall-apart meat in Sunday gravy. Pot roast overcooked, though, and onions for the soup burned. We couldn’t see the food through the steel lid. For this price, we expected a timer and “keep warm” cycle.
RECOMMENDED WITH RESERVATIONS
KITCHENAID 7-Quart Slow Cooker
MODEL: KSC 700SS
PRICE: $129.99
CONTROLS: Manual, with digital timer
CRITERIA
COOKING **
DESIGN **
TESTERS’ COMMENTS
The meat in Sunday gravy was tender, but the pot roast was dry. The onions didn’t cook evenly. The heavy insert’s square shape made pouring easy. The control panel has five cooking settings, but the timer stops after 8 hours on high.
SMALL SLOW COOKERS
RECOMMENDED
CUISINART 4-Quart Cook Central 3-in-1 Multicooker
Model: MSC-400
Price: $129.95
Controls: Digital programmable
Cooking ***
Design ***
This new “multicooker”—a slow cooker that can also brown, sauté, and steam—produced perfect chicken, steaks, and ribs. Its programmable timer can be set to cook for up to 24 hours then automatically switches to “keep warm.” We liked its lightweight, easy-clean, sturdy metal insert with extra-large handles and its oval shape, clear lid, and intuitive controls. The browning function is a nice plus for searing food or reducing sauces.
RECOMMENDED
HAMILTON BEACH Stay or Go 4-Quart Slow Cooker
MODEL: 33246T
PRICE: $26.99
CONTROLS: Manual
CRITERIA
COOKING ***
DESIGN **
TESTERS’ COMMENTS
This cooker performed well, producing perfect ribs, steak, and chicken. A gasket and clips on the lid let you take your cooker to a potluck without risking spills. It’s comparatively low-tech: The “off,” “low,” “high,” and “warm” settings are on a manual dial—which is its drawback. You can’t set it to turn off or switch to “keep warm” on its own.
RECOMMENDED WITH RESERVATIONS
WEST BEND 4-Quart Oval Crockery Cooker
MODEL: 84384
PRICE: $29.99
CONTROLS: Manual
CRITERIA
COOKING **
DESIGN *½
TESTERS’ COMMENTS
This model performed fine with chicken Provençal, bringing the thighs north of 140 degrees in about an hour. It cooked steak to tenderness (although the sauce scorched slightly). But ribs developed a tough, leathery crust wherever they touched the hot bottom of the insert. The model is manually controlled, which means you must switch off the cooker to stop cooking.
RECOMMENDED WITH RESERVATIONS
BREVILLE the Risotto Plus
MODEL: BRC600XL
PRICE: $129.99
CONTROLS: Digital programmable
CRITERIA
COOKING **
DESIGN *½
TESTERS’ COMMENTS
This model has some cool features (it’s a combo slow cooker, rice cooker, and risotto maker), and it works OK, as long as you don’t cook low-moisture recipes, such as our ribs. The instruction manual calls for a greater minimum amount of liquid than we call for in some of our recipes. Also, the insert lacks handles and isn’t dishwasher-safe. On the plus side, the sauté function worked perfectly—no need to brown foods in a separate pan before placing them in the slow cooker.