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SMART SHOPPING: Whole-Grain Mustard

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Mustard aficionados argue that the coarse-grained version of this condiment improves any ham sandwich or grilled sausage, and we also rely on it in myriad recipes to contribute spiciness, tanginess, and a pleasant pop of seeds. After sampling 11 brands, tasters agreed that they disliked those with superfluous ingredients such as xanthan gum, artificial flavors, and garlic and onion powders. But the more noteworthy factor turned out to be salt. Mustards with a meager amount ranked low, while the winners had roughly twice as much of this flavor amplifier. Our co-winners–the classic, moderately coarse Grey Poupon Country Dijon (left) and the newer,“poppier” product, Grey Poupon Harvest Coarse Ground Mustard (right)–make good pantry staples.