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SMART SHOPPING: Anchovy Fillets Versus Paste

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Since most recipes call for only a small amount of anchovies, we wondered whether a tube of anchovy paste might be a more convenient option. Made from pulverized anchovies, vinegar, salt, and water, anchovy paste promises all the flavor of oil-packed anchovies without the mess. We tested the paste and jarred or canned anchovies side by side in recipes calling for an anchovy or two. Tasters found little difference, though a few astute tasters felt that the paste had a “saltier” and “slightly more fishy” flavor. You can substitute ¼ teaspoon of the paste for each fillet. However, when a recipe calls for more than a couple of anchovies, stick with jarred or canned as the paste’s more intense flavor will be overwhelming. Our favorite brand of canned anchovies is Ortiz Oil-Packed Anchovies.