t A vintage car cruising down Havana’s colorful main street
One of the world’s great historical cities, Havana is a lively capital full of architectural jewels in various styles. Habana Vieja (Old Havana) was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1982, and this historic heart has regained its splendor after ongoing restoration.
t A vintage car cruising down Havana’s colorful main street
Experience Cuba
n Double-tap image to read the labels
This intimate square was once a terminus for the Zanja Real, the royal aqueduct constructed to supply water to ships in the adjoining harbor. The plaza is dominated by the Baroque profile of the Catedral de San Cristóbal, completed in 1777.
In the 18th century, Spanish nobles built their palaces around the square. Most noteworthy is the Casa del Conde de Bayona, today housing the Museo de Arte Colonial, full of period furnishings. Women dressed in colonial costume stroll the plaza and pose for photos. Just off the northwest corner, is La Bodeguita del Medio bar-restaurant, where some claim that Ernest Hemingway was once a regular visitor.
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⌂ Calle San Ignacio 61 § (7) 862 6440 # 9am–5pm daily
This cobblestoned street is lined with restored colonial structures and features a mix of museums, boutiques, and restaurants. Not to be missed is the Maqueta de la Habana, an open gallery housing a 1:500 scale model of Habana Vieja. The 17th-century Casa de la Obra Pía is a fine example of colonial architecture.
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⌂ Calle Mercaderes 114 § (7) 866 4425 # 9am–6pm daily
“Old Square” began as Plaza Nueva (New Square) in 1587 and served as Havana’s main market place and bullfight arena. Buildings from four centuries surround the plaza, which has been fully restored. Casa del Conde de Jaruco, built between 1733 and 1737, features colonial details, including mediopuntos (half-moon stained-glass windows). The Palacio Cueto is an astonishing Art Nouveau building, currently undergoing a lengthy conversion into a hotel.
Great View
For a sweeping view of La Habana Vieja, ascend to the rooftop of Edificio Gómez Villa on Plaza Vieja. Here, a Cámara Oscura (a revolving peep-hole camera) projects a real-time panorama onto a screen.
Habana Vieja’s liveliest street is the pedestrianized Calle Obispo, which has bustled with activity since colonial days. At its west end, El Floridita is where Ernest Hemingway famously downed daiquiris; today his bronze likeness rests an elbow at the bar. His room (No. 511) at Hotel Ambos Mundos is preserved as a museum. Another interesting site is Farmacia Taquechel, an old pharmacy with apothecary jars lining the shelves.
This airy square once opened onto the colonial waterfront. At its heart, the marble Fuente de los Leones is modeled on a fountain in the Alhambra. The restored Neo-Classical Lonja del Comercio, the former commerce exchange, is topped by a bronze statue of Mercury. Dominating the square, the Basílica Menor de San Francisco de Asís dates back to the 1580s, though it was rebuilt in 1730. In 1762, the British seized Havana and began worshiping in the church, which today is home to a museum of religious art.
EXPERIENCE Cuba
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Eat Mama Inés Fidel’s former private chef conjures up superb fusion dishes within a colonial mansion. ⌂ Calle de la Obra Pía, 60 § (7) 862 2669 ¢ Sun \\\ El del Frente Enjoy tapas and mojitos here, either on the roof terrace or amid the 1950s-inspired interior at this paladar. ⌂ Calle O’Reilly, 303 § (7) 863 0206 \\\ |
Officially named Paseo de Martí, this tree-shaded boulevard was redesigned in 1927 by French architect Forestier, and features a raised walkway adorned with bronze lions, wrought-iron lampposts, and marble benches. The many Neo-Moorish buildings include the Hotel Sevilla, from 1908. Nearby, Havana’s main wedding venue, the beautiful Neo-Baroque Palacio de los Matrimonios, has an ornately stuccoed interior.
This spacious park serves as the major gateway between Habana Vieja and the modern districts to the west. Designed in 1877, it has a statue of José Martí in its center. Gracious structures surround the park, including the Hotel Inglaterra and Hotel Plaza, notable for their elegant 19th-century facades. Most striking is the Gran Teatro de la Habana, a Baroque confection adorned with statues.
t A statue of José Martí, Cuba’s foremost national hero, which stands in Parque Central
t Image of Guevara on the Plaza de la RevoluciÓn
This monumental plaza has been Cuba’s political and administrative center since it was laid out in the 1950s as Plaza Cívica. The facade of the Ministerio del Interior is adorned with a seven-story steel sculpture of Che Guevara. Dominating the plaza, the Memorial José Martí features a marble statue of the national hero, with the Museo de José Martí behind it.
Havana’s National Fine Arts Museum displays a rich trove across two buildings. The Palacio de Bellas Artes is given over to Cuban art, with sections devoted to colonial and 20th-century works. The Centro Asturiano houses international works, including those of European masters, plus a collection of Egyptian, Greek, and Roman antiquities.
Havana’s vast cemetery covers 0.2 sq miles (0.5 sq km) and was arranged in a strict grid in the 1870s. It has been named a National Historic Monument for its spectacular mausoleums in eclectic styles, from Neo-Classical to avant-garde. At its core is the Capilla Central, a chapel with lavish frescoes.
EXPERIENCE Cuba
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Drink Bar Dos Hermanos A favored watering hole of Ernest Hemingway, the cocktails here are as good as they were in the writer’s day. ⌂ Avenida del Puerto, 305 § (7) 861 3514 Dulcería Bianchini II This tiny, Swiss-run café serves up excellent cappuccinos and other coffees, alongside mouthwatering cakes. ⌂ Callejón del Chorro § (7) 862 8477 |
The original cigar factory, which used to be located behind the Capitolio, was founded in 1845 by Jaime Partagás Ravelo, a Catalan businessman. At this location visitors can still take tours of the factory and observe the cigar-making process. Tickets can be bought from a tourist hotel desk.
Overlooking the Malecón, this gem of an Art Deco building opened in 1930. It features a lavish Moorish interior, while cannons stud the lawns. Considered Havana’s finest hotel, its illustrious guest list includes Churchill, Sinatra, Ava Gardner, and Hemingway.
Ernest Hemingway’s former home, Finca Vigía, is maintained as the author left it, with his possessions in situ. Visitors are not allowed to enter but can look through the open windows and door.
In colonial days, southern Habana Vieja was a major ecclesiastical center and has many convents and churches. The 17th-century Convento de Santa Clara is an outstanding example of colonial architecture. The Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Merced, with a lavish interior and frescoed dome ceiling, is popular with both Catholic and Santería (Afro-Cuban) worshipers.
Casa-Museo José Martí is the birthplace of José Martí, and now houses a museum with some of his written works on display.
Insider Tip
Hop on the lancha (ferry) that runs between the Emboque de Luz terminus and Regla for superb vistas of the Havana waterfront. It costs a mere 20 centavos (you will need peso cubano).
t Locals relaxing in front of the Malecón’s ubiquitous pastel buildings
This seafront boulevard, lined with fanciful buildings, is Havana’s main thoroughfare. Highlights include the Monumento al Maine, a memorial to sailors killed when the U.S.S Maine exploded in the Havana harbor on February 15, 1898.