t The panoptical interior design of the Presidio Modelo prison on Isla De La Juventud
This 15-mile- (25-km-) long slender, low-lying wisp of an island is a wonderful holiday destination for those who love sun, sea, and sand. Sailing, watersports, and horse-riding are all offered by all-inclusive resorts served by charter flights and overnight excursions from Havana. Cayo Largo is semi-arid and lined along its southern shore by sand as white and fine as powdered sugar dissolving into shallow turquoise seas, perfect for snorkeling and wading. The most impressive beach is Playa Sirena, at the west end of the cay, while the few hotels on the island are concentrated along Playa Lindamar.
There are no inhabitants other than Cuban workers who live in Combinado. Here you’ll find the marina and tourist office, as well as the Granja de las Tortuga (Turtle Sanctuary), where eggs laid in the sands by green and leatherback turtles are hatched for release. Scuba-diving and fly-fishing excursions are offered, as well as a sail to nearby Cayo Iguana, named for the endemic iguanas that live here.
t The panoptical interior design of the Presidio Modelo prison on Isla De La Juventud
The “Isle of Youth” has few major tourist draws, and hence offers a genuine Cuban experience. Nueva Gerona is the main town with colonial homes. The isle’s highlight is Presidio Modelo, a former prison, now a museum, where Fidel Castro and his men were jailed after they attacked the Moncada Barracks in 1953. They were liberated in a 1955 amnesty.
On the southwest shore, Hotel El Colony at Siguanea Bay is a base for diving to coral formations and shipwrecks. To the south, Parque Natural Punta Francés offers good viewing, with a crocodile farm and pre-Columbian petroglyphs at Cuevas de Punta del Este.
t The worn down exterior of the Presidio Modelo, Isla De La Juventud
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⌂ 3 miles (5 km) E of Nueva Gerona § (46) 32 6369 # 9am–4pm Tue–Sat, 9am–1pm Sun
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⌂ 25 miles (40 km) S of Nueva Gerona § (46) 32 7101 n Ecotur, Calles 39 Nueva Gerona
This peaceful and unique rural community, amid the refreshingly cool pine forests of the Sierra del Rosario, was created in 1971 around a lake as part of a reforestation project. One of Cuba’s premier ecotourism sites, it has scenic trails, coffee plantations, and artists’ studios. Almost as soon as it was created, the eco-village was colonized by artists who were drawn to the community by its ethos and natural beauty, and there are plenty of artists’ studios to explore. Well worth a visit is Casa-Estudio Lester Campa and Casa-Estudio Henry Aloma, where the island’s two most prominent artists can be seen at work. Nearby, the Casa-Museo Polo Montañez honors one of Cuba’s former preeminent folk-singers; his music is usually playing, tempting visiting Cubans to dance. The Hotel Moka eco-resort nestles above the peaceful village, which is named for the terraces that cover the hillside in coffee and pines. You can sample specialty coffees at Café de María, while a short zipline ride across the lake adds an extra buzz.
A short distance from the village lies the well preserved Cafetal Buenavista – an old coffee plantation, where you can explore the old barracones (slave barracks) and huge stone-wheel tajona (mill) used for husking coffee beans. This is the perfect spot for lunch since its restaurant overlooks the plant-punctuated hillside.
Las Terrazas is characterized by its natural beauty. The village is surrounded by scenic trails, where brightly colored birds – including the exquisite tocororo, Cuba’s national bird – sing from the trees.
The Sendero Las Delicias is a 2-mile (3-km) hike that runs from Cafetal Buenavista to a mountaintop mirador (lookout). Nearby, the Río San Juan tumbles over rocky tiers and jade-colored pools to form the Baños del Río San Juan.
Cubans were not permitted to own cell phones until 2008, when the government ban was lifted.
EXPERIENCE Cuba
The tobacco plant (Nicotiana tabacum) grows from small, round, golden seeds. Cuban tobacco seeds are in demand throughout the world, because their quality is considered to be so good. The plant reaches its full height in the three or four months from November to February. Like cigar-making, tobacco-growing is the result of age-old expertise handed down from generation to generation. Tobacco plants are quite delicate, and need skilful handling. There are two types: Corojo, grown in greenhouses, which has the prettiest leaves and is used as wrapper leaves for the cigars, and Criollo, which grows outdoors and provides the other leaves.
Founded in 1669, the orderly capital of Cuba’s westernmost province can seem remote and old-fashioned. It has long been a center for the cultivation and industrial processing of tobacco, and is best utilized as a base for exploring the surrounding countryside. Pinar del Río is at its best in the carnival month of July and during November, when stages are set up across the city and colorfully dressed performers on stilts loom over the streets.
The most striking aspect of the historic center of this small, orderly town is the abundance of columns: Ionic or Corinthian, simple or decorated. The most important buildings lie on the arcaded main street, Calle Martí (also known as Calle Real).
The capital of the eponymous province, Matanzas fans around a large bay. It grew wealthy in the 17th century from the trade of sugar and slaves, and later developed a rich cultural life, earning the nickname “the Athens of Cuba.” The main square, Parque de la Libertad, is pinned by a statue of José Martí and surrounded by attractive buildings, including the 17th-century Catedral de San Carlos. West of the park is the Museo Provincial, which occupies the 1938 Palacio del Junco. It houses an impressive collection of antiques and artifacts from the colonial period.
The restored Teatro Sauto is the city’s architectural pride and joy. Designed by Italian architect Daniele Dell’Aglio, it is a solidly built Neo-Classical structure with several Greek-inspired statues made of Carrara marble. Inside, the auditorium is clad in salubrious wood-paneling. Don’t skip the Castillo de San Severino, which dates from 1745 and guards the western entrance to the bay. It now hosts a museum on slavery and the Afro-Cuban Santería religion.
t Bleached driftwood jutting from the sands of a Cayo Levisa beach
This small island, with its white-sand beaches, an offshore coral reef, and mangroves, is the most prepared for tourists in the Los Colorados archipelago, and the only one with diving facilities. Despite this, it is still unspoiled and is home to several species of bird; the surrounding waters, too, have an abundance of fish.
Cuba’s top resort, which occupies the Península de Hicacos, is connected to the mainland by a drawbridge, a sign of its 19th-century exclusivity. Once a private playground for Cuba’s elite, the area opened up to everyone after Castro took power in 1959, and today, Varadero is popular with visitors who are drawn to the clear blue water. The many all-inclusive hotels here all offer watersports, with scuba diving being the main draw.
EXPERIENCE Cuba
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STAY Cubanacán Cayon Levisa This state-run beachfront hotel offers three types of accommodation. Don't miss out on the hotel's extensive watersports program. ⌂ Cayo Levisa ∑ cubanacan.cu \\\ |
As well as being the site of the infamous Bay of Pigs invasion, this vast peninsula is synonymous with unspoiled nature and luxuriant tropical vegetation. The peninsula is protected in the Gran Parque Natural Montemar, and crocodiles and flamingos are among the wildlife that can be seen here. Boca de Guamá, the main tourist center of the area, has a crocodile farm. Playa Larga is one of the better beaches along this part of Caribbean coastline, with the coral reef found here offering magnificent dive sites.
North of the Boca de Guamá is Playa Girón, a beach that became famous as the site of the ill-fated, American-backed landing in 1961. Don't miss the small Museo Playa Girón, which covers the anti-Castro invasion using photos, documents, weapons, a tank, and the wreckage of airplanes that took part in the last battle, as well as films taken during the invasion.
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⌂ Carretera Playa Larga Km16 § (45) 91 5551 # 7am–7pm daily
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⌂ Playa GirÓn § (45) 984 122 # 9am–5pm daily
t A diver exploring spectacular coral formations off the coast of Mariá la Gorda
The best-known bathing spot on the southwestern coast owes its name to a sad legend. A few centuries ago, an overweight girl (gorda) named María was abducted by pirates on the Venezuelan coast, transported to Cuba, and abandoned here. To survive, she was forced to trade with buccaneers who passed by, and this section of shoreline still bears her moniker – María the Fat.
The extraordinarily beautiful coral reefs are richly populated by marine life including sea turtles, reef sharks, and a number of rare species of marine creature. This makes these 5 miles (8 km) of coastline a real tropical aquarium. The reefs are also incredibly easy to reach, lying just a short distance from the shore; you don't even need to enter the water to spot vibrant fish swimming around the coral.
The area between Pinar del Río, San Juan y Martínez, and San Luís produces very high-quality tobacco. The ideal growing conditions are primarily the result of the protection afforded by the Sierra del Rosario mountain range, and the fact that the area's red soil is well drained and rich in nitrogen. Former landowners who left Cuba in 1959 have tried in vain to reproduce the unique environment elsewhere.
At the prestigious Hoyo de Monterrey plantations, plants are protected from the sun by cotton cloth to maintain the softness of the tobacco leaves. There are also windowless curing houses where the leaves are left to dry on long poles.
Picture Perfect
The tobacco plantations of Viñales and Vuelto Abajo offer superb photo opportunities. Iconic sights include ox-drawn ploughs framed by royal palms, or guajiros (farm workers) tending the fields of tobacco plants.
EXPERIENCE Cuba
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Eat Kike-Kcho Found on the tip of the Varadero peninsula, this gourmet restaurant serves sumptuous seafood dishes. ⌂ Marina Gaviota, Varadero § (45) 66 4115 \\\ Salsa Suárez A classy paladar (family-run restaurant) that combines stylish decor with excellent fusion cuisine. ⌂ Calle 31, 103, Varadero ¢ Tue ∑ salsasuarezvaradero.com \\\ Finca del Mar One of the best paladares outside Havana, this bay-front alfresco joint offers a tempting international menu. ⌂ Calle 35 between 18 & 20, Cienfuegos § (43) 52 6598 \\\ |
t Antiguo Ayuntamiento, a grand building on Parque José Martí, Cienfuegos
This maritime city has a well-preserved historic core and one of the most captivating bays in the Caribbean Sea – hence the city’s nickname, the “Pearl of the South.” The central point of Cienfuegos is the Parque José Martí. The vast square was declared a national monument due to its historic importance and notable surrounding buildings; the Neo-Classical Teatro Tomás Terry and the Catedral de la Purísima Concepción, dating from 1870, are unmissable. Nearby, the Cementerio La Reina’s Neo-Classical marble tombs are fascinating. The Punta Gorda district is tipped by the Palacio de Valle, a 1917 Mughal-inspired mansion that now houses a restaurant.
⌂ Calle 37 y 2 § (43) 55 1003 # 9:30am–11pm daily
Founded in 1689 when a group from Remedios moved away from the coast to escape pirate raids, Santa Clara became famous in 1958 when it was the setting of the battle, led by Che Guevara, which marked the end of Batista’s dictatorship. Cuban sculptor José Delarra commemorated this victory at the Monumento Tren Blindado, a re-creation of a troop train derailed by Che Guevara’s guerrillas, which is worth a visit. At the Monumento Ernesto Che Guevara, a statue of the “heroic guerrilla” stands atop an inscribed plinth. Below it is the Museo de Che, with displays of his life.
The main square, Parque Leoncio Vidal, is home to some fine colonial buildings, including the impressive Museo de Artes Decorativas.
t Monumento Ernesto Che Guevara, a huge bronze statue in Santa Clara
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⌂ Carretera Camujuani § (42) 20 2758 # 8:30am–5pm Tue–Sat, 9am–1pm Sun
⌂ Ave de los Desfiles § (42) 20 5878 # Museo de Che: 8:30am–5pm Tue–Sun
These beach-fringed isles off the coast of Villa Clara province are accessed by a long pedraplen (causeway). A dozen deluxe hotels have been built, and more are planned. Fishing and scuba diving are prime draws, while the mangroves lining the inner shore are perfect for bird-watching.
This broad fertile valley is named for the numerous ingenios (sugar mills) built here in the late 18th century. The valley is rich in history with ruins providing evidence of the time when the sugar industry was at its peak, and it provides an insight into the social structure of the plantations. Take in great views of the valley at El Mirador, a hilltop lookout east of Trinidad.
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⌂ 3 miles (5 km) E of Trinidad # 8am–5pm daily
The pristine alpine forests of the Sierra Escambray can best be experienced at the Topes de Collantes mountain retreat, 2,625 ft (800 m) above sea level. The Kurhotel Escambray solarium here is used as a recuperative clinic. Hikes lead to Salto de Caburní and its 250-ft (75-m) waterfall, and to the Hacienda Codina coffee estate, with an orchid garden and medicinal mud pools. The appealing Museo de Arte Cubano Contemporáneo displays modern works by famous artists.
t The tumbling waterfalls in the Topes de Collantes reserve
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⌂ Topes de Collantes # 8am– 8pm daily
The narrow Bahía de Cochinos (Bay of Pigs) was the setting for the landing of 1,400 C.I.A-trained anti-Castro Cuban exiles in April 1961. Fidel Castro took charge of the defense. After three days of fighting, the U.S. withdrew its air support and the abandoned invaders were defeated. After 20 months, the captured exiles were exchanged for medicine.
Converted in the mid-1980s into a holiday resort, the beaches of Guardalavaca are among Cuba’s most popular vacation destinations. Although the resort is within easy reach of Holguín, 58 km (35 miles) to the southwest, the location still feels remote.
The crescent-shaped main beach has crystal-clear waters, fine sand, and there is a coral reef quite close to the shore.
The name “Guardalavaca” (watch the cow) derives from the Spanish word for the cattle egret, a bird that is common throughout Cuba, and especially in this area.
West of the beach is Bahía de Naranjo, a natural coastal park with karst hills covered with thick vegetation. There are three small islands out in the bay; from Cayo Naranjo, boat tours, diving, and fishing trips can be organized.
Great View
There are marvelous far-reaching vistas from the top of the Loma de la Cruz (Hill of the Cross) in Holguín. Although the 458 steps to the summit were only added in 1927, this hill was used to plan the original grid layout of the town.
Lining the tendril-thin Ancón peninsula, this stunning white beach is lapped by turquoise waters. Gorgeous coral reefs tempt divers, most notably at Cayo Blanco, a 20-minute boat ride away. La Boca, a village at the neck of the peninsula, is popular with Cubans.
Called the city of parks due to its many leafy squares, Holguín is a colonial town situated between two hills. It is famed for the active part it played in the wars of independence under the leadership of Calixto García, the famous general who liberated the city from the Spanish in 1972.
To the plaza’s north, the Museo Provincial de Holguín features five rooms illustrating the cultural development of the town. Catedral de San Isidro, completed in 1720 and consecrated as a cathedral in 1979, stands over Parque Peralta, and Plaza San José is home to a fine church and colonial houses.
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⌂ Calle Frexes 198 § (24) 46 3395 # 8am–4:30pm Tue–Sat, 8am–noon Sun ¢ Jan 1, May 1, Jul 26, Oct 10, Dec 25
t A white-sand, palm-lined beach in the archipelago of Jardines del Rey
In the Atlantic Ocean, the Sabana and Camagüey archipelagos, known collectively as “Jardines del Rey,” include about 400 small islands, most uninhabited. They were “discovered” in 1514 by Diego Velázquez, who was so struck by them that he dedicated them to the king (rey), Carlos V. They became a hiding place for pirates and, after the abolition of slavery, a landing point for slave traders.
A causeway, built in 1988 as a link to mainland Cuba, makes it easy for visitors to reach the coral reef and the beach resorts, which are currently concentrated on Cayo Coco and Cayo Guillermo.
This city, declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008, lies in the middle of a vast area of pastureland. It is nicknamed “the Legendary” for its traditions of heroism and patriotism, as well as for its Neo-Classical architecture. The irregular, intricate street network that distinguishes Camagüey from other Cuban cities resulted from the need to protect itself from raids.
The former Plaza de Armas is dominated by an equestrian statue of Agramonte, a local independence hero. Buildings of interest on the square include the city’s cathedral, the Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria, built in 1735.
The cobbled Plaza San Juan de Díos is ringed by examples of vernacular architecture, plus the Iglesia de San Juan de Díos. Life-size figures of real-life residents adorn the Plaza del Carmen. The triangular Plaza de los Trabajadores draws visitors to the Casa Natal de Ignacio Agramonte (birthplace of Agramonte) and the Baroque Iglesia de la Merced, which contains a Holy Sepulchre. The Ballet de Camagüey, one of the best regarded dance companies in Latin America, performs at the Teatro Principal, which is built in Neo-Classical style.
t Life-size bronze figures by Cuban artist Martha Jiménez in Camagüey’s Plaza del Carmen
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⌂ Calle Padre Valencia 64 § (32) 293 048 # 9am–5pm daily (ballet shows usually from 8pm Fri–Sun)
This rugged mountain chain – Cuba’s second largest – spans Cienfuegos, Santa Clara, and Sancti Spíritus provinces. Smothered in emerald rainforest, it was the perfect base for Che Guevara’s Rebel Army in the late 1950s and, later, for counter-revolutionaries financed by the C.I.A. Today, eco-minded travelers thrill to the birdsong and crash of waterfalls accessed by hiking trails.
On the northwest side, El Nicho is one of the most spectacular waterfalls in Cuba, tumbling 66 ft (20 m) into jade pools. Framed by rainforest, it is reached by following the easy Sendero El Reino de las Aguas hike from the entrance.
Studding the northeastern foothills is Lago Hanabanilla, a man-made embalse (reservoir). Hotel Hanabanilla is a popular base for watersports, bird-watching, and guided hikes to El Nicho. Or for a truly unique experience you can journey to El Nicho in an ex-Soviet army truck on a day-long trip from Trinidad.
t The ornate exterior of Santiago de Cuba’s Catedral de la Asunción
This is perhaps the most African, the most musical, and the most passionate city in Cuba. Santiago de Cuba is a lively, exciting place where festivities are celebrated with fervor, never more so than during July’s carnival.
Founded in 1515 by Diego Velázquez, the bustling Parque Céspedes lies at the city’s heart, surrounded by fine buildings: the Ayuntamiento (town hall); the Neo-Classical Catedral de la Asunción; and the Casa de Diego Velázquez, the original governor’s 1522 mansion, now the Museo de Ambiente Histórico Cubano.
Not to be missed along Calle Heredia are the Casa de la Trova, the Museo del Carnaval, and the Museo Emilio Bacardí Moreau, with eclectic displays ranging from an Egyptian mummy to modern art.
Sprawling around the city’s historic core, Santiago’s 20th-century districts are full of sites honoring the city’s title of “Cradle of the Revolution”. The Museo Histórico 26 de Julio, where Fidel Castro launched the revolution in 1953, is near the huge statue of independence hero Antonio Maceo that looms over Plaza de la Revolución. The Avenida Juan Gilberto Gómez connects the plaza to Cementerio de Santa Ifigenia, a monumental cemetery, home to José Martí’s tomb.
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⌂ Calle Felix Peña 602 § (22) 65 2652 # 9am–5pm daily
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⌂ Calle Pío Rosado § (22) 62 8402 # 9am–4:30pm Mon–Sat (to 6:30pm Sat); 9am–2:30pm Sun
If not for the U.S. naval base and the famous song Guantanamera, this town would likely only be known to Cubans and music experts. It was founded in 1796 to take in the French fleeing from Haiti. The town has a few sights of note. Principal Parque Martí is dominated by the Parroquial de Santa Catalina de Riccis, dating from 1863. On Calle Pedro A Pérez is the Palacio de Salcines, designed by José Leticio Salcines in 1919, and which now houses the Museo de Artes Decorativas.
Great View
The U.S. Naval Base, in a Cuban defense zone, is virtually impossible to see, but atop a hill 16 miles (25 km) to the east, the Mirador La Gobernadora restaurant has a viewing tower and provides binoculars.
Cuba’s first settlement was founded in 1511 and is unusual for its rickety, centuries-old wooden homes. It is set on a broad bay framed by lush mountains. The Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción, on Parque Independencia, exhibits a cross said to have been left by Christopher Columbus in 1492.
Nearby, is the flat-topped El Yunque (the Anvil) mountain, which lures birders and hikers with stunning views. Its lush rainforests are part of a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve protected within Parque Nacional Alejandro Humboldt.
t The flat peak of El Yunque, a mountain to the west of Baracoa
This national park spans the provinces of Santiago de Cuba and Granma. The major peaks of the island are found here, including Pico Turquino, Cuba’s highest, at 6,390 ft (1,974 m), as well as sites made famous by the guerrilla war waged by Castro and the rebel forces.
Before you set off, note that much of this area is a military zone therefore lone hiking is not permitted on many of the trails. Ecotur (who have an office in Bayamo) offer regular organized tours into the park. The main starting point for exploring the Sierra Maestra mountain range is Villa Santo Domingo. From here, there is a challenging 3-mile (5-km) journey – on foot or in a good off-road vehicle – to the Alto del Naranjo viewpoint. One of the highlights of the area is Comandancia de la Plata, Castro’s headquarters in the 1950s. Here there is a museum, a small camp hospital, and the site from which Che Guevara made his radio broadcasts. Comandancia de la Plata is accessible only via a 90-minute walk. The area was made into a national park in 1980.
The mountain range is great hiking territory, and also attracts rock climbers, but be prepared for spartan facilities.
The coast at the southern edge of the Sierra Maestra is spectacular. The road runs close above the waters of the Caribbean Sea and offers excellent views; take care if driving after dark, however, as the road is in need of repair in some places.
Founded in 1513, Cuba’s second-oldest city was devastated by fire in 1876, during the Ten Years’ War. Parque Céspedes, the main square, is overlooked by interesting buildings, including Casa Natal de Carlos Manuel de Céspedes, birthplace of the man behind Cuba’s quest for independence, and the lovely church, Iglesia Parroquial Mayor de San Salvador.
EXPERIENCE Cuba
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Drink La Ruina A popular bodega-style beer hall, housed in an old colonial building. ⌂ Calle Galixto García y Gulo, Guantánamo § (21) 929 565 Casa de la Trova This traditional trova pays tribute to local singer and composer Pablo Milanes. ⌂ Calle Martí y Maceo, Bayamo § (23) 425 673 |