t The elaborately painted interior of Sacred Heart Church in The Bottom
t The elaborately painted interior of Sacred Heart Church in The Bottom
On the winding road up from Fort Bay, the first town is The Bottom – the largest on the island and the seat of government. Before The Road was built, the main mode for transporting goods from the sea was a walk up steps from Fort Bay or Ladder Bay.
Most buildings are in the typical Saban style with white clapboard houses with red roofs and trimmed lawns, all neatly kept with pride. Among the town’s highlights are Sacred Heart Church’s sacristy adorned with original paintings by local artist Heleen Cornet, and the Saba Artisans Foundation, where Saban lace and other handwork are sold. Other notable buildings include the grand governor’s house, and Saba University School of Medicine.
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⌂ Matthew Levenstone St § 599 416 3260 # 8:30am–noon Mon–Fri
EXPERIENCE Saba and St. Eustatius
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Stay Queen’s Gardens Resort & Spa A luxury hillside resort surrounded by tropical greenery and offering unbeatable island views. Guests will enjoy spacious suites, private Jacuzzis, open-air dining, and a gorgeous spa. ⌂ Drive 1, Troy Hill, Saba ∑ queensaba.com \\\ The Cottage Club Ten traditional, self-catering cottages, each with a sea-facing balcony and hotel-level services. There’s also a pool and a communal lounge area. ⌂ Windwardside, Saba ∑ cottage-club.com \\\ |
Saba’s main port, Fort Bay
is also the starting point for diving excursions. With a harsh coastline and no sandy beaches or real harbors for boat docking, the island was hard to access. In 1972, the Dutch government built a 277-ft (84-m) deep-water pier at Fort Bay, making it easier for landing cargo and for ferry services. The only gas station on the island is located here, along with the Saba Marine Park Visitor’s Center and Hyperbaric Facility.
The adjacent In Two Deep café and Pop’s Place are two relaxing eateries with fantastic views of the sea.
Saba’s first port, Ladder Bay, served the island before the pier was constructed at Fort Bay. More than 800 steps leading up to The Bottom were the major mode of transportation for people and goods until as late as the 1970s.
Today, visitors can climb down to Ladder Bay through the Ladder Trail, the only route to reach the bay. Views to the ocean are impressive, but the hike is strenuous and takes about 40 minutes each way. The highlight of this route is the remains of the old Customs House; it is advisable not to stray off the trail’s track as it crosses private land.
The bay has several areas ideal for diving, including Ladder Bay Deep, a sloping reef dropping to a maximum depth of 110 ft (33 m).
To the north lies Wells Bay, where The Road ends. It is sometimes referred to as the “Wandering Beach” since its belt of tan sand is washed away for many months of the year. It usually reappears in spring, when it can lay claim to being the island’s only beach.
t A woman examining the intricate lace embroidery on sale at Saba Lace Boutique in Zion’s Hill
Perched on the little Zion’s Hill, Hell’s Gate is a small town that can be reached only by The Road. Since many residents did not appreciate the negative name, the town is also known as Zion’s Hill.
One of its main highlights is the Holy Rosary Church. Made to resemble a structure from the medieval period, the church was in fact built in 1962. Behind it is the Saba Lace Boutique, where some of the best lacemakers on the island exhibit and sell their delicate pieces of art.
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⌂ Zion’s Hill # 9am–noon & 2:30–5pm Mon–Fri
EXPERIENCE Saba and St. Eustatius
In the 1930s, the Sabans asked the Dutch government to build a road to improve their everyday life. Both Dutch and Swiss engineers believed it was impossible due to the island’s steep hills and valleys. Undaunted, a Saban named Josephus Lambert Hassell enrolled in a correspondence engineering course, and convinced a crew of locals to start building in 1938. It took until 1958 to finish the entire road to the airport, north of Zion’s Hill. It is simply called “The Road.”
Beyond Zion’s Hill, The Road passes through thick forests before reaching the sleepy little town of Windwardside. It is a step back in time, with its quaint shopping area and outstanding examples of typical Saban cottages.
Highlights are the Harry L. Johnson Museum, a 160-year-old cottage now used as a museum. It contains original furnishings and a collection of indigenous artifacts. Nearby, the Dutch Museum is also housed in a traditional Saban cottage; its lace collection is of particular interest. Another fine place to visit is JoBean’s Hot Glass Studio. Visitors can learn to make glass beads or watch Jo Bean at work.
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⌂ Windwardside # 10am–3pm Tue–Sat ∑ museum-saba.com/HLJohnson
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⌂ Windwardside # 10am–5pm Mon–Sat, 10am–3pm Sun ∑ jobean-glass.com
t The fully restored Fort Oranje on St. Eustatius island
The island of St. Eustatius, or Statia, was known during the colonial period as the Golden Rock, because of its importance as a center for international trade. The population during the peak trading years jumped to over 20,000, and the main town of Oranjestad was a thriving, cosmopolitan place. Since 2000, a concerted effort has been made by the St. Eustatius Historical Foundation to restore much of the town area. Now, a stroll through the Upper Town is like stepping back in time, with graceful 17th- and 18th-century wood and stone structures lining the cobblestone streets.
Oranjestad offers the second-largest collection of standing wooden 18th-century buildings in the Americas, exceeded only by Williamsburg in the U.S. The St. Eustatius Historical Foundation is housed in the 18th-century home of merchant Simon Doncker. On the main level are period rooms filled with authentic furnishings and many household goods from the 18th century. The museum staff coordinate guided walking tours of the town. The Government Guest House is an old stone structure that has been restored and is now in use as an office building. It first served as barracks for the troops at Fort Oranje, which sits on a bluff overlooking Lower Town and Gallows Bay. Originally built by the French in 1629, the fort has been fully restored, with the Tourist Office occupying one of the buildings. Just to the south of the fort are the ruins of the Dutch Reformed Church, built in the 1750s, and the adjacent cemetery.
Another historic site is Honen Dalim Synagogue, one of the oldest synagogues in the Americas. Now in ruins, plans for its restoration are underway with support from St. Eustatius Center for Archaeological Research (SECAR). Built in 1739, the structure and grounds include a cemetery and a mikvah – a ritual bath – that was discovered during one of the SECAR excavations.
t Intact bastions of Fort Oranje, complete with a functional canon
⌂ Wilhelminaweg 3 § 599 318 2288 # 9am–5pm Mon–Fri
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⌂ Kerkweg § 599 318 2433 # Sunrise–sunset
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⌂ Kerkweg # Sunrise–sunset
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⌂ Breedeweg # Sunrise–sunset
St. Eustatius was the first foreign nation to officially recognize the new nation of the United States in 1776.
Situated on the northeastern side of St. Eustatius, this small domestic museum was constructed by the Berkel family on their homestead, and consists of two one-room buildings. The exhibition house, which was constructed by the family in 1916, is a replica of the original house and displays furniture, artifacts, and tools from the plantation. A private school also shares the plantation grounds, which are well maintained with fruit trees as well as the natural flora of the island. An area on the side with a bower is used for weddings and receptions.
The St. Eustatius National Park Foundation (STENAPA) oversees its many programs from the Visitors’ Center in Gallows Bay. It offers exhibits, a small souvenir shop, an internet café, showers, public bathrooms, and a picnic area. Visitors can reserve tours, make taxi reservations, pay fees for park usage or diving, and even purchase plants from the botanical gardens.
t Diver exploring a coastal area protected by the St. Eustatius National Park Foundation
As one of the national parks under the direction of STENAPA, this site serves to educate locals and visitors about the varied plant life of the island, thus helping to protect and preserve the island’s native and endangered flora.
Sited on a former sugar plantation,the gardens were established in 1998, and volunteers work daily on improving various areas. Spaces that have already been completed include the Sensory Garden, Palm Garden, Shade House, Lookout Garden (which offers visitors spectacular views of St. Kitts and humpback whales), and the Jean Gemmill Bird Observation Trail. Guided tours of the gardens are arranged by the National Park Visitors’ Center in Gallows Bay.
EXPERIENCE Saba and St. Eustatius
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EAT The Old Gin House Head here for oceanfront dining on a lounge deck. The international menu is well prepared, but the irresistable location is the real draw. ⌂ 1 Oranjebaai, Oranjestad ¢ Tue–Wed ∑ theoldginhouse.com \\\ Franky’s Bar & Restaurant For a dose of local food and culture in a no-frills setting, this is the place. Saturday is BBQ night, with ribs, lobster, or pork straight off the grill. ⌂ 17b Fort Oranjestraat § 599 318 0166 ¢ Mon \\\ |