t The pictureque skyline of Gustavia harbor, beginning to light up as dusk falls
t The pictureque skyline of Gustavia harbor, beginning to light up as dusk falls
Gustavia is one of the prettiest harbor towns in the Caribbean. Its steep bay walls tumble to a rectangular waterfront, with attractive red-roofed buildings overlooking the harbor from three sides. Much of the waterfront itself is a boardwalk, where tenders moor at the restaurants and bars, which gives the bay a very pleasant ambience. At Christmas and New Year, Gustavia harbor is one of the most fashionable places in the world. Luxury yachts sit anchored, sterns to the boardwalk, hosting parties for celebrities.
Onshore, the streets are steep and narrow, but full of character. There is often a lively buzz around the many bars and shops, particularly on the boardwalk. The streetfronts are lined with serious names in the world of fashion: Armani, Dolce & Gabbana, and Bulgari. On the waterfront at the head of the bay is the small St. Bartholomew’s Anglican Church, which is built from white-painted stone and dates to 1855, and sits in a pretty garden full of palm trees. Services are held in both French and English, and it’s a popular wedding venue for tourists. The church also hosts occasional performances by the local choir group, La chorale Aux Bons Chœurs. Look out for the enormous iron anchor across the road that is believed to come from an 18th-century English warship. It was discovered in 1981, when it was accidently picked up by a tugboat. Behind St. Bartholomew’s is the Catholic church, and up a flight of stairs above both of them, the Swedish clock tower can be seen from several points around the harbor. It can be recognized by its small triangular roof.
At the far point of the bay’s outer arm, beneath the fort, are two notable buildings. The Mairie de St. Barth (town hall) is a modern version of the mayoral buildings that are seen all over France and its dominions. Adjacent to it, and housed in the Wall House, an old stone Swedish warehouse, is the Wall House Museum. This displays an eclectic series of artifacts, photographs, and paintings illuminating the island’s history, including the Swedish period. The exhibits include models of traditional St. Barthian houses (low buildings that face away from the prevailing wind), household items, and articles woven from the local latanier palm.
Just a few elements of Swedish heritage remain in the small town, which took its name from King Gustav III, the Swedish ruler at the time when the island became Swedish. Only a handful of the pretty stone buildings date from this era, as sadly most were destroyed in a devastating hurricane in 1850 and a great fire in 1852. Dinzey House, on Rue Jeanne d’Arc, dates to the 1820s and is one of the few houses to have survived the fire. It was built by and named after Sir Richard Dinzey, the son of the governor of Saba, and has been meticulously restored by its current owner, who is also the Honorary Consual of Sweden. Several streets carry Swedish names, however, including Prinsgatan and Kungsgatan.
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⌂ La Pointe, Gustavia Harbor # 8:30am–noon & 2:30–6pm Mon–Fri, 9–11am & 2:30–5pm Sat ∑ st-barths.com/museum
t Strolling past colorful houses on the Rue Jeanne d’Arc in Gustavia
The island of St. Barths was Swedish for a century. In the late 1700s, King Gustav III of Sweden decided to capitalize on the growing global seaborne trade and looked for an outpost in the Caribbean. A deal was struck with France and the island was loaned to Sweden in return for a French presence in Gothenburg and trading rights in the Baltics. For a while, the free port of St. Barths was very successful and the population rocketed, but in the mid-1800s, trade tailed off and the island went into a decline. In 1878 King Oskar II of Sweden put nationality to a referendum and the islanders voted to return to France.
EXPERIENCE St. Barthelemy
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Eat Bonito Saint Barth With a lovely terrace overlooking Gustavia’s harbor, this restaurant is a celebrity favorite and has a menu to suit. ⌂ 4 Rue Lubin Brin # 6:30pm–1am Mon–Sat ∑ ilovebonito.com \\\ L’Isola Ristorante Head here for Italian classics; with an elegant, minimalist menu and a chef from Rome, it’s considered by many to be the island’s best spot. ⌂ Rue Roi Oscar II # 6:30–11pm daily ∑ lisolastbarth.com \\\ Crêperie A traditional French crêperie in the heart of Gustavia, offering both sweet and savory options alongside burgers, paninis, and other tasty staples. ⌂ Rue Roi Oscar II ∑ creperiestbarth.com \\\ |
The pretty village of Corossol, situated on a protected bay to the north of Gustavia, is one of the distinctly local areas of St. Barths. Corossol is home to many “Barthéleminois” families and has a slightly more local character than other areas of the internationally popular island. It is an excellent destination for those who wish to experience some of the traditional culture of St. Barths, from fishermen mending their nets on the beach to villagers weaving intricate straw baskets. On special occasions, the local women don traditional costumes and bonnets. At sunset, head to Corossol Beach, just off the main road, to take a few atmospheric pictures.
t The red-roofed resort of Eden Rock Hotel, a world-renowned venue in St. Jean
The second and only other sizable town in St. Barths, St. Jean sits on the island’s north shore on Baie de St. Jean, just over the hill from Gustavia, overlooking a spectacular blue bay. St. Jean’s small airport is set at one end of the bay, on the aptly named Plaine de la Tourmente (Plain of Torment), a very difficult runway to land on. There are several hotels and bars along the beach, the most fashionable on the island. At the center of the beach, essentially splitting it into two separate strands, stands the iconic Eden Rock Hotel, set on its own promontory. Behind the beach is the small town, which has two rows of shops and several restaurants and bars. Roads lead inland past a couple of hotels to many of St. Barths’ numerous villas.
This remote, white sandy beach is wrapped by rocky cliffs at each end and takes its name from the large salt pond nearby. Perhaps the most photogenic of St. Barths’ many beaches, Anse de Grande Saline lies in a beautiful secluded cove on the southern coast. It is reached by following Rue Lubin Brin from Gustavia, or by taking the D209 road east from Baie de St-Jean, followed by a 10-minute clamber over dunes from the parking lot.
All visitors need on Anse de Grande Saline are sunglasses and a smile. While topless subathing is common on St. Barths beaches, this unspoiled stretch of sand is known for its entirely nude – though discreet – sunbathers (although this practice is not at all mandatory). The water here is clear and warm with minimal current, which provides good snorkeling conditions. There are a couple of restaurants near the parking lot, but no concessions at the beach itself. Day-trippers should bring water and snacks, and, if possible, chairs and umbrellas since there is little shade to be found throughout the day.
Insider Tip
To keep prices low, visit off-season (mid-April–mid-December) for good discounts on accommodation. Opt to stay in places with a kitchen, and shop for picnics at the supermarchés. Make beach-going your main activity, since they are all public and free.
t The stunning, crescent-shaped beach of Anse du Grande Cul-de-Sac
Located at the northeastern and Atlantic side of the island, Anse de Grand Cul-de-Sac is reached by taking the D209 road east from Gustavia or Baie de St-Jean. The crescent-shaped beach here is narrow, and there are few areas of sand to lounge on, but it is set on a warm, shallow reef-protected bay that is often referred to as a lagoon. You can wade almost the entire way across the water at low tide, so it’s a popular spot for families with small children and islanders on weekends.
The lagoon is also a favorite area for watersports, offering excellent wind- and kite-surfing, kayaking, stand-up paddle boarding, and snorkeling excursions to see rays and turtles. Local centers rent out equipment and can organize lessons.
The surrounding hotels offer great views across the lagoon, or you can use sun-loungers for the afternoon at a number of restaurants and beach bars offering tasty French and Creole food.
Also accessed from the D209 road and roughly a mile east of Anse du Grand Cul-de-Sac, is the similar lagoon-shaped bay and white-sand beach of Petit Cul de Sac. As its name suggests, it’s tiny, but incredibly beautiful and very secluded with only a few villas on the hillsides above.
The Atlantic is quite hard to enter here, due to rocks along the shoreline. However, once successfully past the rocks, this area is good for snorkeling. Turtles can also be glimpsed on the left side of the cove, while the small tidal pools on the tip to the right of the beach are perfect for young children to splash around in.
EXPERIENCE St. Barthelemy
Plage de St-Jean
Sitting in a bay of aquamarine water, this popular spot boasts a few toes-in-sand bars.
Anse de Grande Saline
Capped at both ends by rocky hillsides, this stretch has an isolated, undeveloped appeal.
Anse du Gouverneur
Brilliant turquoise water hemmed in by green hills.
Anse de Colombier
Reached via a steep hike, this is a favorite for catamaran trips.
Baie des Flamands
The longest walkable beach on the island.