The capital of Dominica, Roseau, is a busy, colorful, and noisy town during the day and very quiet at night. The town is small enough to be explored on foot.
The oldest part of town is around Old Market Square, formerly the original slave market, and has several interesting old buildings and many specialty craft stores. Also near the Old Market Square is the Dominica Museum, which has a small collection of artifacts tracing the island’s history. The newer part, along the southern banks of the Roseau River, has offices, shops, and bazaars where goods of all kinds spill out onto the sidewalks. The New Market on Bay Front is best visited early in the morning, when it is at its busiest and liveliest.
Also worth visiting is the Roman Catholic Cathedral of Our Lady of Fair Haven, built of volcanic stones gathered from the banks of the river. Its construction started in 1841, but the building was not completed until 1916, when the west steeple was added. The cathedral has been undergoing renovation work and is closed to the public. The Botanic Gardens, on the site of an old sugar plantation, cover 1,742,400 sq ft (161,850 sq m), and comprise the largest open space in the city.
⌂ Virgin Lane # Dawn to dusk
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⌂ Bath Rd, Morne Bruce # 6am–7pm daily ∑ dominicagardens.com
Champagne Reef in Soufrière is named for the bubbles that pour from the rocks due to geothermal activity.
EXPERIENCE Dominica
Champagne Reef
⌂ Scott’s Head Marine Reserve
A great spot for novices.
Scott’s Head Pinnacle
⌂ Scott’s Head Marine Reserve
This spectacular site features a “Swiss cheese” rock formation.
Point Break
⌂ Capucin Cape
Atlantic and Caribbean currents meet here; for seasoned divers only.
Five Finger Rock
⌂ Cabrits Marine Park
A fist-like boulder, known for beautiful spotted eagle rays.
t A diver exploring the stunning coral reefs off the shore of Soufrière
Soufrière is a small village noted for its palm-fringed beach, fishing boats, and waterside church with its murals of village life. It was named by early French settlers for the sulfur that belches out from the ground nearby. Visitors can walk up to the sulphur springs and hot pools along the Soufrière river valley through huge stands of towering bamboo.
Heading south from the village, the land arches round a picturesque bay to the island’s southwestern tip, the Scott’s Head (also known as Cacharou) Peninsula. The bay itself comprises the Soufrière Scotts Head Marine Reserve, one of the Caribbean’s premier diving destinations. The reserve contains coral-encrusted pinnacles, an impressive drop-off, and the renowned Champagne Reef – all teeming with colorful and curious sealife.
Trafalgar Falls are the easiest to reach of the island’s many waterfalls. Visitors should still be careful, since the rocks can sometimes be slippery. There are two falls cascading down a gorge into pools littered with huge black rocks and surrounded by lush vegetation. The larger of the falls, on the left, is known as “father” and the other as “mother.” Left of “father” there is a hot pool to relax in.
Close to the falls is the Papillote Wilderness Retreat and Nature Sanctuary. This small eco-resort is set in magnificent tropical gardens with many rare orchids, and has its own mineral pools, natural hot springs, and waterfalls. The resort was destroyed by Hurricane Maria in 2017, but is being rebuilt.
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⌂ Trafalgar Falls Rd, Roseau § 767 295 9564 # Daily
Located midway between Canefield and Castle Bruce, Emerald Pool is one of the most visited sites on the island. It is a short walk through montane rainforest about 3 miles (5 km) northeast from Pont Cassé. The pool is a grotto with its own waterfall and surrounded by tropical plants, flowers, and ferns. The thick canopy prevents too many ground-hugging plants from flourishing. The rich birdlife includes jaco parrots, hummingbirds, and the elusive mountain warbler. A section of the trail is paved with rock slabs laid by the Kalinagos centuries ago. The pool gets crowded at times and a morning visit is best.
t Bright green waters and surrounding vegetation of the Emerald Pool
EXPERIENCE Dominica
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STAY Papillote Wilderness Retreat A garden-bound inn, with hot spa pools that do wonders for aching post-hike limbs. ⌂ Trafalger Falls Rd ∑ papillote.dm \\\ Secret Bay A luxury retreat combining sumptuous villas with dramatic clifftop views. ⌂ Tibay, Portsmouth ∑ secretbay.dm \\\ Crescent Moon Cabins This relaxing mountain eco-lodge features a spring-fed plunge pool. ⌂ Riviere La Crois ∑ crescentmooncabins.com \\\ |
Experience Dominica
The best way to see Dominica is on foot, along one of the many hiking trails. In fact, hiking is the only way to reach some of the island’s hidden treasures – emerald pools, cascading waterfalls, and bubbling lakes. The island’s best trails are found in the magnificent Morne Trois Pitons National Park. Hikes range from the less strenuous routes to the spectacular Trafalgar Falls to the more arduous climbs to Boiling Lake. Some require an experienced guide’s assistance and a local guide will ensure that hikers get much more out of their trip.
t Group of hikers among the fumaroles and hot springs of Desolation Valley
On the opposite page you will find some of the best hiking routes in Dominica. Many of the hiking trails are designated easy, which means they are of short duration and can be tackled by most people. Moderate level walks take longer to hike and involve more difficult terrain that may require some scrambling. Difficult level are strenuous but exhilarating hikes for experienced hikers.
In July 2007, George Kourounis became the first person to cross Boiling Lake from above, suspended by ropes.
Experience Dominica
EASY LEVEL
Trails to Emerald Pool and Trafalgar Falls can be very busy on days when cruise ships are in port. The earlier visitors set out on a hike, the greater are their chances of spotting wildlife.
Emerald Pool is a well-signposted, family-friendly 15-minute hike which allows visitors to explore the lush vegetation of the tropical rainforest and wildlife on the way to the pool. Those who bring swimwear can also take a dip in the very cool water.
1 Hiker scaling the boulders at Trafalgar Falls
Trafalgar Falls is one of Dominica’s most popular natural attractions. The twin falls are only a short hike from the visitors’ center just outside Trafalgar. Hikers can swim in the pool below the smaller waterfall to cool off.
Titou Gorge can be reached by a short hike which passes through a series of pools, surrounded by solidified lava formations and tree canopy. A hot spring outside the entrance is ideal for a dip.
2 Swimming in the pool at the base of Middleham Falls
MODERATE LEVEL
It is best to begin the Middleham Falls hike from Laudat. The initial hike is a little steep, but the path levels out before descending to the falls.
Middleham Falls is one of Dominica’s highest waterfalls, it takes about 1 hour to hike through the beautiful rainforest to reach these high-altitude falls. The forest is home to numerous bird species including the Sisserou Parrot.
3 Hikers and a guide on the trail to Boiling Lake
DIFFICULT LEVEL
It takes at least 6 hours for the round-trip to Boiling Lake and the Valley of Desolation, and about the same time to scramble up to the summit of Morne Diablotin and back.
Boiling Lake is the world’s second-largest actively boiling lake and is enveloped in a vaporous cloud.
Syndicate starts at the Syndicate Visitors’ Center and passes through spectacular scenery. It takes 2 hours and follows the gorge of the Picard River, which runs into the sea at Portsmouth.
t A visitor photographing the overgrown ruins at Fort Shirley, Cabrits National Park
Established in 1986, Cabrits National Park covers over 2 sq miles (5.5 sq km) of upland and 1.5 sq miles (4.5 sq km) of the surrounding underwater park, Cabrits Marine Reserve. The site contains the ruins of the 18th-century Fort Shirley – often considered Dominica’s most important historic site – the volcanic peaks of East and West Cabrits, tropical forest, the largest swamp on the island, sandy beaches, and coral reefs just offshore to the north. Cabri is a French word for “young goat.” The place was so-named because French sailors would leave goats on the peninsula so that they would have fresh meat when they returned.
Fort Shirley and the garrison were largely built by the British, but the French added to it during their years of occupation (1778–84). Altogether there were more than 50 major buildings, although many of them were covered by vegetation after the fort was abandoned in 1854. At its height, the fort had seven gun batteries. Today, cruise ships dock at the pier in Prince Rupert’s Bay to visit the park. There are fabulous views from Fort Shirley across the bay and inland to the mountains.
Indigenous to South America, the Kalinagos (Caribs) are said to have been fierce people. They began to migrate north to the islands in about AD 1000, ousting the Taínos and Arawaks, who had arrived 1,000 years earlier. Their war canoes, holding more than 100 men, were fast enough to catch a sailing ship. The Kalinagos built villages and cleared land to farm. About 3,000 Kalinagos, direct descendants of those early settlers, still live on Dominica, which they call Waitukubuli, meaning “tall is her body.” In the late 18th century, Dominica became the home for large numbers of Africans who had escaped slavery in the surrounding islands. They took refuge in the mountainous terrain and were known as Maroons, and fought a guerrilla war against the British troops until they were defeated in 1814. After Emancipation in 1848, however, the island again became a refuge for Africans escaping from the nearby French islands, where slavery was still practiced.
t Kalinago Barana Aute, a traditional cultural village within Kalinago Territory
Kalinago Territory occupies 6 sq miles (15 sq km) of the island with an extensive coastline and agricultural land behind. The U.K. gave the land back to the descendants of the island’s original inhabitants in 1903. Today, the Kalinagos engage mostly in agriculture and fishing, still making their canoes by hand. They are also expert potters and weavers, using traditional methods that have been passed down for centuries to create baskets so tightly woven that they are watertight. Traditional music, dance, and herbal medicine are still practiced here. There are more than 16 arts and crafts shops in the territory selling various handicrafts made by the locals. Experience the heritage of Dominica’s indigenous people at the Kalinago cultural village – Kalinago Barana Aute. This is a full-scale reproduction of a Carib village, with traditional thatched buildings by Crayfish River. Guided tours of the site are available from mid-October through April.
The Morne Diablotin National Park is the island’s third national park, having been formally established in early 2000. It is home to the “Little Devil” Mountain, Dominica’s highest peak at 4,747 ft (1,447 m) and covers 34 sq miles (88 sq km) of oceanic rainforest, including the area known as Syndicate, which is home to the Jaco and rare Sisserou parrot. Both species are endemic only to Dominica, and their protection was a key factor in the inauguration of the park. Morne Diablotin is not named for the devil but for the devilish call of the black-capped petrel that used to breed on the higher slopes of the mountain. The park is part of the vast Northern Forest Reserve and teems with birdlife and hundreds of species of towering trees, plants, and exotic flowers.
Visitors need to allow themselves 6–7 hours to climb the mountain, have a picnic lunch at the top, and descend after that. The trail starts at a height of about 1,700 ft (518 m) and becomes progressively steeper, and can be wet in places. The Syndicate Nature Trail, on the edge of the park, is much easier and ideal for the less adventurous. It takes about 30 minutes, but it is best to allow for more time in order to fully enjoy everything there is to see along the way.
A short distance away, the trail runs through a section of forest that contains most of the avian species to be found on the island. There are three stunning lookout points along the trail.
t A Sisserou parrot, a rare bird found within Morne Diablotin National Park
EXPERIENCE Dominica
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Eat Old Stone Grill Located inside a rustic stone house, head here for tasty and affordable Caribbean cuisine. ⌂ 15 Castle St, Roseau § 767 440 7549 ¢ Mon & Sat lunch; Sun \\\ Pearl’s Cuisine A long-running local favorite that dishes up delicious, authentic Caribbean fare. ⌂ Sutton Place Hotel, 25 Old St, Roseau § 767 448 8707 ¢ Sun \\\ Riverside Café Meals at this popular lunch spot are served on the delightfully shady verandah. ⌂ Citrus Creek Plantation, La Plaine # 10am–5pm daily; dinner by appt ∑ citruscreekplantation.com/restaurant \\\ |