Oven-Baked Suppers
Baked Macaroni & Cheese with Vegetables
Serves 4 to 6
Macaroni and cheese without vegetables just isn’t a complete meal, so why not add vegetables to this perennial favorite? If different vegetables are preferred — frozen peas or green beans are recommended — just throw them into the pasta water about 2 minutes before the pasta is done. Fresh cauliflower can be substituted for the broccoli.
Ingredients
- 1 pound elbow macaroni
- 1 head broccoli, broken into florets
- 1 large carrot, grated
- 4 tablespoons butter
- 1⁄4 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
- 1 teaspoon dry mustard
- 2 cups milk
- 1 pound sharp Cheddar, grated
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Instructions
- 1. Preheat the oven to 350˚F. Lightly grease a large casserole dish with butter.
- 2. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the macaroni and boil. About 3 minutes before the macaroni is done according to the cooking time on the package, add the broccoli. About 1 minute before the macaroni is done, add the carrot. Continue boiling until the macaroni is al dente. Drain well. Transfer to the casserole dish.
- 3. To make the cheese sauce, melt the butter over medium heat in a medium saucepan. Stir in the flour and dry mustard to form a smooth paste. Stir in the milk and bring to a boil, stirring to prevent lumps. When the sauce thickens, stir in the Cheddar until melted.
- 4. Stir the sauce into the macaroni and vegetables. Season with salt and pepper.
- 5. Bake for 30 minutes, until bubbly and browned. Serve hot.
There are as many names for this dish as there are recipes. In Mexico, this dish would probably be called budin Azteca, or Aztec Pie. When the pie crossed the border in Texas, it was readily adapted and made with beef, or chicken, or beans. It may be called Mexican lasagna, stacked enchiladas, tortilla torte, torta tortilla, or Southwestern casserole. By whatever name, the dish is a home-style favorite, with layers of tortillas, salsa, and cheese.
Ingredients
- 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
- 1 onion, halved and slivered
- 1 green bell pepper, julienned
- 1 red bell pepper, julienned
- 2 fresh or canned green chiles, seeded and diced
- 2 cups fresh or canned seeded and diced tomatoes
- 1⁄4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
- Oil, for frying (optional)
- 1 package (9 ounces) corn tortillas
- 2 cups homemade refried beans or 1 can (15 ounces)
- 2 cups grated Monterey Jack or Cheddar
- 1 cup sliced California black olives
- 1⁄2 cup sour cream
Instructions
- 1. Preheat the oven to 425˚F.
- 2. Heat the olive oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Sauté the onion, bell peppers, and chiles until the onion is limp, about 3 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat. Stir in the cilantro and season to taste with salt and pepper.
- 3. Heat 1⁄2 inch of oil in a medium skillet over medium-high heat. Using tongs, dip tortillas one by one in the oil just long enough to soften, 10 to 15 seconds. Drain on paper towels. (This step is optional, but it improves the flavor and texture of the finished dish — because everything is better fried.) Cut the tortillas into wedges.
- 4. Spoon about 1⁄2 cup of the tomato mixture into a 11⁄2 quart casserole dish. Arrange an overlapping layer of tortillas wedges on top (use one-third of the tortillas). Spoon 1 cup of the tomato mixture on top. Spread about half of the refried beans in an even layer on top of the tomato layer. Sprinkle with one-quarter of the cheese and half the olives. Cover with another layer of tortillas and tomato mixture. Top with the remaining refried beans, then one-quarter of the cheese and the remaining olives. Arrange a final layer of tortillas on top. Spoon the remaining tomato mixture over this layer. Top with the sour cream and the remaining cheese.
- 5. Bake for about 25 minutes, until the cheese is melted and the filling is heated through. Let stand for 10 minutes before serving.
Vegetable Lasagna
Serves 6 to 9
Vegetables replace ground meat in this vegetarian version of lasagna. Of course, there’s nothing to stop you from browning a pound of ground meat or sausage with the vegetables for an over-the-top festive lasagna.
Ingredients
- 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
- 1 small to medium-sized eggplant, peeled and diced
- 1 red or green bell pepper, diced
- 1 onion, diced
- 1 zucchini, diced
- 1⁄2 pound button mushrooms, chopped
- 4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
- 6 cups well-seasoned tomato sauce, such as marinara
- Chopped fresh herbs (rosemary, thyme, oregano, alone or in any combination) (optional)
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 15–16 ounces (about 11⁄2 cups) ricotta cheese
- 1 large egg, slightly beaten
- 2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
- 12 no-cook lasagna noodles
- 4 cups shredded mozzarella cheese
- 1 cup freshly grated Parmesan
Instructions
- 1. Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Sauté the eggplant in the oil until tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the bell pepper, onion, zucchini, mushrooms, and garlic. Sauté until the mushrooms give up their juice, 5 to 10 minutes.
- 2. Add the tomato sauce to the vegetables. Season to taste with the herbs, if using, and salt and pepper.
- 3. Combine the ricotta, egg, and basil in a medium bowl and mix well.
- 4. Preheat the oven to 350˚F. Lightly grease a 9- by 13-inch baking pan with oil.
- 5. To assemble the lasagna, spread about 2 cups of the sauce in the prepared baking dish. Place 3 lasagna noodles over the sauce. The noodles should not touch or overlap. Spread a third of the ricotta mixture evenly over the noodles. Top with another 11⁄2 to 2 cups sauce. Sprinkle a quarter of the mozzarella and a quarter of the Parmesan cheese on top. Repeat the layers two more times. Top with the remaining 3 lasagna noodles. Spread the remaining sauce on top. Sprinkle with the remaining cheeses. Cover with foil.
- 6. Bake the lasagna for 30 minutes. Remove the foil and bake for another 10 to 15 minutes, until bubbly and browned.
- 7. Let the lasagna stand for 5 minutes before cutting into serving pieces. Serve hot or warm.
Here is the dish that gets the credit for introducing broccoli to mainstream America. Before Chicken Divan, broccoli was rarely found outside immigrant Italian communities. This dish was created in the 1930s at the Divan Parisien Restaurant in New York, a restaurant that was once voted the seventh most popular restaurant in the country. From Manhattan, the recipe traveled to more and more dining rooms and was kept alive in community cookbooks long after the restaurant had closed its doors.
Ingredients
- 11⁄2 pounds broccoli (3 large heads), chopped
- 3 tablespoons butter
- 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
- 1–11⁄2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken breast cutlets
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
- 2 garlic cloves, minced
- 1 cup chicken broth (see recipe)
- 1 cup milk
- 1⁄4 cup dry sherry
- 3⁄4 cup grated Gruyère
Instructions
- 1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the broccoli and blanch for 3 minutes. Drain and immediately plunge into cold water to stop the cooking. Drain well. Transfer the broccoli to a clean towel and pat dry.
- 2. Preheat the oven to 350˚F. Grease a 9- by 13-inch baking dish with butter.
- 3. Heat 2 tablespoons of the butter and the olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Season the chicken with the salt and pepper. Place 3⁄4 cup of the flour in a shallow bowl. Dredge the chicken in the flour and add to the skillet in a single layer. Sauté the chicken on both sides until browned, about 4 minutes per side. Remove the skillet from the heat and transfer the chicken to a bowl to keep warm while you prepare the sauce.
- 4. Return the skillet to medium heat. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon butter and the garlic. Sprinkle in the remaining 1⁄4 cup flour and whisk until smooth. Stir in the broth, milk, and sherry, and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat and stir in 1⁄2 cup of the cheese. Season to taste with more salt and pepper.
- 5. To assemble the casserole, arrange the broccoli in the baking dish. Pour half the sauce over the broccoli. Arrange the chicken on top. Cover with the remaining sauce. Sprinkle the remaining 1⁄4 cup cheese over all.
- 6. Bake for 30 minutes. Serve hot.
King Ranch Chicken
Serves 6
Think “Mexican lasagna” meets chicken à la king, and you get the idea behind this Texas classic.
Sauce
- 6 tablespoons butter
- 2 cloves garlic, minced
- 2 teaspoons chili powder
- 6 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour
- 2 cups chicken broth (see recipe)
- 1 cup milk
- 1⁄2 cup sour cream
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Filling
- 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
- 1 red bell pepper, julienned
- 1 green bell pepper, julienned
- 1 onion, halved and sliced
- 2–4 fresh or canned green chiles, seeded (optional) and sliced
- 4 ounces mushrooms, sliced
- 4 cups chopped or shredded cooked chicken
- 1 can (15 ounces) diced tomatoes, drained
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
- Oil, for frying (optional)
- 18 corn tortillas
- 8 ounces Monterey Jack cheese, grated
- 1⁄2 cup chopped pimiento-stuffed green olives
Instructions
- 1. Preheat the oven to 350˚F. Lightly grease a 9- by 13-inch baking dish with oil.
- 2. First, prepare the sauce. Melt the butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Sauté the garlic and chili powder in the butter until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in the flour until you have a smooth paste. Cook for 1 minute, stirring constantly. Stir in the broth, then the milk, stirring until the mixture is smooth and thick. Remove from the heat and stir in the sour cream. Season to taste with the salt and pepper.
- 3. To make the filling, heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Sauté the bell peppers, onion, chiles, and mushrooms in the oil until the mushrooms give up their juice, about 8 minutes. Stir in the chicken and tomatoes. Season to taste with salt and pepper and remove from the heat.
- 4. Heat 1⁄2 inch of oil in a medium skillet over medium-high heat. Holding the tortillas with tongs, dip them one by one into the oil just long enough to soften, 10 to 15 seconds. Drain on paper towels. (This step is optional, but it improves the flavor and texture of the finished dish — because everything is better fried.)
- 5. To assemble the casserole, arrange six tortillas in the prepared baking dish. Cover with half the chicken mixture, one-third of the sauce, and one-third of the cheese. Scatter half the olives over the cheese. Repeat the layer with tortillas, chicken, sauce, cheese, and olives. Finish with six more tortillas, the remaining sauce, and the remaining cheese.
- 6. Bake for about 30 minutes, until browned and bubbly. Let sit for 5 minutes, then serve.
Chicken & Rice
Serves 4 to 6
Chicken and rice, arroz con pollo, chicken biryani, chicken rice pilaf — there are countless variations on this combination. This particular variation is simply flavored and delicious. The sherry is essential to cut the greasiness of the chicken.
Ingredients
- 2 cups long-grain white rice
- 21⁄2 cups chicken broth (see recipe)
- 1⁄2 cup dry sherry
- 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme
- 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
- 8 bone-in chicken thighs (about 3 pounds)
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 1⁄2 pound mushrooms, trimmed and sliced
- 1 onion, diced
- 3 cloves garlic, minced
- 2 cups frozen peas
Instructions
- 1. Wash the rice in at least two changes of water. Drain and set aside.
- 2. Preheat the oven to 400˚F.
- 3. Combine the broth, sherry, and thyme, and set aside.
- 4. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Season the chicken with the salt and pepper, add enough pieces to fit in the skillet in a single layer, and brown until quite dark, turning several times, about 10 minutes. Remove the chicken and keep warm. Add the remaining chicken and brown. Remove from the skillet. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons fat from the skillet.
- 5. Lower the heat to medium. Add the mushrooms, onion, and garlic, and sauté until the mushrooms give up their juice, about 5 minutes. Stir the rice and sauté for another 3 to 5 minutes, until the rice appears opaque.
- 6. Scrape the mixture into a 9- by 13-inch baking dish. Pour in the broth mixture. Arrange the chicken on top of the rice. Cover with aluminum foil.
- 7. Bake for 55 minutes. Remove the cover and add the peas. Replace the cover and return to the oven for 5 minutes.
- 8. With a spatula, fluff the rice and mix in the peas. Serve hot.
Herb-Roasted Chicken with Vegetables
Serves 4 to 6
Herbert Hoover did not promise a “chicken in every pot,” but the Republican National Committee inserted the phrase into ads during Hoover’s 1928 campaign. A vote for Hoover, the ad said, would continue the prosperity of the Republican administrations of Harding and Coolidge, which had “reduced hours and increased earning capacity, silenced discontent, put the proverbial ‘chicken in every pot,’ and a car in every backyard, to boot.” One small chicken, stretched with lots of vegetables, fed a family more healthfully than a large chicken and no vegetables.
Ingredients
- 1 whole chicken, 31⁄2–5 pounds, giblets and neck removed
- 5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
- Juice of 1⁄2 lemon (1–11⁄2 tablespoons)
- 1⁄4 cup chopped fresh parsley
- 1⁄4 cup chopped fresh herbs (chervil, lovage, marjoram, oregano, rosemary, sage, savory, thyme, alone or in any combination)
- 3 teaspoons coarse sea salt or kosher salt
- Freshly ground black pepper
- 8 red bliss or new potatoes, cut into eighths
- 3 carrots, sliced 1⁄2 inch thick
- 3 golden or red beets, peeled and sliced 1⁄2 inch thick
- 1 rutabaga, peeled, halved, and sliced 1⁄2 inch thick
- 6 shallots, halved
- 1 head garlic, cloves separated and peeled
Instructions
- 1. Preheat the oven to 450˚F.
- 2. Rinse the chicken under cold running water and pat dry. Set on a large roasting pan on a rack. (The pan must be large enough to hold the vegetables in a single layer surrounding the chicken.)
- 3. Combine 3 tablespoons of the oil, the lemon juice, parsley, chopped fresh herbs, 2 teaspoons of the salt, and pepper, to taste in a large bowl. Mix well. Rub the mixture onto the chicken and inside the chicken cavity.
- 4. Add the potatoes, carrots, beets, rutabaga, shallots, and garlic to the bowl. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons oil and 1 teaspoon salt. Toss gently to coat the vegetables. Arrange the vegetables in a single layer around the chicken.
- 5. Roast for about 1 hour, until the juices run clear from the chicken and a leg moves easily. Stir the vegetables once or twice during the roasting to promote even roasting.
- 6. Let the chicken sit for 10 minutes. Transfer to a serving platter. Turn the vegetables in the pan juices. Taste and add salt and pepper, if desired. Spoon the vegetables around the chicken. Serve immediately.
In the old days, farm wives would slaughter chickens that weren’t worth feeding over the winter because their time of good egg production had passed. This Yankee classic was created to take advantage of those old stewing hens. It is also delicious when made with the typical supermarket chicken we find today. Feel free to substitute whatever vegetables you have on hand.
Ingredients
- 4 pounds chicken parts, all white meat, all dark meat, or a mixture of white and dark meat
- 6–8 cups water
- 1 onion, quartered
- 2 garlic cloves, peeled and left whole
- 1 bunch flat-leaf parsley
- 1 teaspoon black peppercorns
- 1 medium-sized rutabaga, peeled and diced
- 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
- 2 medium-sized leeks, trimmed and sliced
- 6 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour
- 1 carrot, diced
- 1 cup frozen peas or green beans
- 1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill, or 1 teaspoon dried thyme
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Biscuit Topping
- 3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
- 2 tablespoons baking powder
- 11⁄2 teaspoons salt
- 2⁄3 cup butter, cut into pieces
- 1 cup buttermilk
Instructions
- 1. Place the chicken in a large pot. Cover with the water. Add the onion, garlic, parsley, and peppercorns. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to maintain a slow simmer, and simmer for 1 hour, until the chicken is tender. Turn off the heat and allow the chicken to cool in the cooking liquid.
- 2. Cover the rutabaga with salted water in a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Boil until just tender, 5 to 8 minutes. Drain.
- 3. When the chicken is cool enough to handle, remove it from the broth. Discard the skin and bones. Chop the meat into bite-size pieces. Strain the broth and discard the solids. Skim off any fat that rises to the top. Reserve 3 cups broth for the potpie and refrigerator or freeze the remainder for other recipes.
- 4. Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Sauté the leeks in the oil until tender, about 5 minutes. Sprinkle in the flour and stir until all the flour is absorbed into the oil. Whisk in the 3 cups reserved broth and stir until thickened and smooth. Stir in the chicken, rutabaga, carrot, peas, and dill. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil. Keep hot while you prepare the biscuits.
- 5. Preheat the oven to 450˚F. Set out a 9- by 13-inch baking pan.
- 6. Combine the flour, baking powder, and salt in a food processor. Add the butter and process until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Pour in the buttermilk and process to make a soft dough. Knead a few times on a lightly floured board. Pat out the dough to a thickness of about 1 inch. Cut into 3-inch rounds. By gathering the scraps and patting out again, you should get 12 biscuits.
- 7. Pour the hot chicken mixture into the baking pan. Place the biscuit rounds on top. Bake for 15 to 18 minutes, until the biscuits are golden and the chicken mixture is bubbling.
- 8. Let stand for a few minutes before serving.
One-Dish Tip:
The Secret of Success for Potpies
The secret of success when it comes to potpies is to have the filling mixture hot when you place the biscuits on top. If the mixture is cool, the biscuits will be gummy. If you want to prepare the casserole in advance, keep the biscuits and filling in separate containers in the refrigerator. Reheat the filling until bubbly. Transfer to a baking pan and set the cold biscuits on top. Add a few extra minutes to the baking time to compensate for the cold biscuits.
Another option is to bake the biscuits separately (for 15 to 18 minutes at 450°F) and serve alongside the chicken mixture.
Chicken Tetrazzini
Serves 6
They don’t invent dishes like this anymore, and they don’t make celebrities out of opera divas as they once did. Chicken Tetrazzini was named after the Florentine Nightingale, Luisa Tetrazzini (1871–1940), a wildly popular soprano whose tempestuous love affairs, legal wrangles, and professional triumphs and disappointments were the stuff of legend. In 1907, there was a dispute over Tetrazzini’s contract with the Metropolitan Opera. An injunction was sought to prevent her from singing in any theater until the dispute was resolved. Headed for San Francisco and asked about the injunction, the feisty diva said she would sing in the streets if she had to. Although an injunction was never issued, on Christmas Eve 1910, in front of the San Francisco Chronicle building, Tetrazzini sang before an estimated quarter of a million people. This dish probably dates from that time.
Ingredients
- 4 tablespoons butter
- 1⁄2 pound mushrooms, sliced
- 2 shallots, minced
- 1⁄2 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
- 3 cups chicken broth (see recipe)
- 1⁄2 cup milk
- 3 tablespoons dry sherry
- 2 cups fresh or frozen frenched green beans
- 4 cups shredded or chopped cooked chicken or turkey
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 3⁄4 pound thin spaghetti or vermicelli
- 1⁄2 cup toasted slivered almonds
- 1⁄4 cup chopped fresh parsley
- 1 cup freshly grated Parmesan
Instructions
- 1. Melt the butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Sauté the mushrooms and shallots in the butter until the mushrooms give up their juice, about 5 minutes. Stir in the flour until you have a paste. Add the broth, milk, and sherry, and stir until smooth and thick.
- 2. If you are using fresh green beans, steam over boiling water until just barely tender, about 3 minutes. Add the chicken and green beans to the sauce and season generously with salt and pepper.
- 3. Preheat the oven to 350˚F. Lightly grease a 9- by 13-inch baking dish with oil.
- 4. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Cook the pasta in the water until al dente. Drain well. Mix the pasta into the creamed chicken mixture. Mix in the almonds and parsley. Transfer half the mixture to the prepared baking dish. Sprinkle with half the cheese. Top with the remaining mixture and finish with the remaining cheese.
- 5. Bake for 30 minutes until the topping is bubbling and hot. Serve hot.
Oven-Baked Pot Roast with Vegetables
Serves 4 to 6
Although pot roast takes several hours to bake, it is mostly unattended time. It can also be made ahead of time; when the meat and vegetables are tender, remove the pot from the oven and refrigerate overnight. Skim off the fat and reheat the meat and vegetables in the pan juices.
Ingredients
- 4 garlic cloves, minced
- 2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme, or 1 tablespoon dried
- 1 tablespoon chopped fresh or dried rosemary leaves
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 1 beef chuck or rump roast (3–5 pounds)
- 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive or canola oil
- 2 onions, finely chopped
- 2 celery stalks, finely chopped
- 11⁄2 cups beef broth
- 1⁄2 cup dry red wine
- 2 bay leaves
- 1 pound red potatoes, cubed
- 2–3 carrots, cubed
- 1 rutabaga, peeled and cubed
- 1 parsnip, peeled and cubed
- 3–4 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour
- 3–4 tablespoons water
Instructions
- 1. Mix together the garlic, thyme, rosemary, and salt and pepper; rub the mixture all over the meat. Let stand for 15 to 20 minutes, while you preheat the oven to 275°F.
- 2. Heat the oil in a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add the meat and brown all over until dark and crusty, about 20 minutes.
- 3. Remove the meat from the Dutch oven. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons fat. Add the onions and celery, and sauté until the vegetables are softened, 3 minutes. Add the broth and wine, bring to a boil, and cook until the liquid is reduced to about 11⁄2 cups. Return the meat to the pot, add the bay leaves, and cover.
- 4. Bake for 3 hours, until the meat is almost tender, turning the meat every half hour. The timing varies, depending on the cut and shape of the roast. You can tell the meat is tender if a fork will pierce the meat without too much resistance and the juices run clear. Add the potatoes, carrots, rutabaga, and parsnip, and continue to bake until the meat and vegetables are tender, about 1 hour more.
- 5. Remove the meat and vegetables to a platter and cover to keep warm. Pour the pan juices into a glass measure. Discard the bay leaves and skim off any fat from the surface. Return to the pan and bring to a boil. Make a paste of 1 tablespoon flour and 1 tablespoon water for every cup of liquid — you will have 3 to 4 cups. Stir in the flour paste and allow to boil until thickened.
- 6. Slice the meat; serve with the vegetables and gravy.
Corned Beef and Cabbage
Serves 4 to 6
It’s a pity that corned beef and cabbage is reserved for St. Patrick’s Day, because this is a one-dish wonder that most people love — provided it is cooked properly. The secret is to never allow the water to boil too vigorously. It must be simmered — very, very gently. To accomplish this, I like to cook the corned beef in a slow oven.
Ingredients
- 6 pounds corned beef brisket
- 2 tablespoons mixed pickling spices
- 4–6 potatoes, peeled and quartered
- 2–3 carrots, peeled and quartered
- 1 head cabbage, cut into wedges
- Mustard, to serve
Instructions
- 1. Preheat the oven to 250˚F.
- 2. Place the corned beef in a large ovenproof pot and cover with water. Add the pickling spice. Cover tightly and bake for about 3 hours, until the meat is tender when poked with a fork.
- 3. Let the meat cool in the cooking liquid for 15 minutes.
- 4. Place the meat on a platter and cover with a tent of foil.
- 5. Place the pot on top of the stove and bring the cooking liquid to a boil. Add the potatoes and carrots, and simmer for about 20 minutes. The vegetables should be firm but tender. Add the cabbage and simmer for 5 to 10 minutes more, until all the vegetables are tender.
- 6. Remove the vegetables with a slotted spoon to a serving bowl. Cover and keep warm. Return the meat to the cooking liquid to reheat, about 5 minutes.
- 7. Slice the meat against the grain and serve with the vegetables, passing mustard at the table.
“Then hurrah for an Irish Stew, that will stick to your belly like glue.” This bit of culinary wisdom was found on an English broadsheet around 1800. The first written reference to Irish stew is in Lord Byron’s poem “Devil’s Drive” (1814), in which he wrote, “The Devil . . . dined on . . . a rebel or so in an Irish stew.” Mutton or goat plus potatoes and onions are the most common ingredients found in an Irish stew. Traditionally, the meat, potatoes, and onions were layered in a Dutch oven, broth or water was poured in, then the pot was covered tightly and hung over a fire to simmer slowly for hours. This version uses lamb and a slightly more refined cooking method.
Ingredients
- 1 pound pearl onions
- 1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
- 1 tablespoon dried thyme
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 3 tablespoons canola or other vegetable oil
- 4 pounds lamb stew meat with bones (from the neck and shoulder)
- 3 cups beef or chicken broth (see recipe)
- 1 pound new potatoes, quartered or cut into eighths, depending on size
- 1 rutabaga or 2–3 turnips, peeled and diced
- 2–3 carrots, sliced 1⁄2 inch thick
Instructions
- 1. Pour boiling water over the onions in a bowl and set aside; this will make the onions easy to peel.
- 2. In a large bowl, combine the flour and thyme. Season generously with salt and pepper and mix well. Add the meat and toss to coat.
- 3. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Shake the excess flour off the meat and add enough pieces to fit in a single layer. Brown on both sides, about 4 minutes per side, and transfer to a roasting pan. Continue until all the meat is browned.
- 4. Preheat the oven to 300˚F.
- 5. Pour the broth into the skillet and stir to scrape up any browned bits. Pour over the meat in the roasting pan. Peel the onions and add to the roasting pan. Scatter the potatoes, rutabagas, and carrots in the pan. Cover tightly with aluminum foil.
- 6. Bake for 2 hours, stirring every half hour or so, until the meat and vegetables are completely tender. Taste and adjust the seasonings. Serve hot.
Braised Lamb Shanks with Vegetables
Serves 4
These lamb shanks are cooked in the style of osso buco, and the flavor is rich and hearty. If you are so inclined, polenta makes a terrific accompaniment, but a loaf of bread is all that is really needed.
Ingredients
- 1 pound white pearl or boiling onions
- 4 lamb shanks, 3⁄4–1 pound each
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 1 cup beef or chicken broth (see recipe)
- 1⁄2 cup white or red wine
- 1 can (28 ounces) diced tomatoes with juice
- 1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary
- 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme
- 4 garlic cloves, minced
- 2 bay leaves
- 2 pounds new potatoes, quartered or cut into eighths
- 2 carrots, sliced 1⁄2 inch thick
Instructions
- 1. Cover the onions with boiling water and set aside to cool. This will make the onions easy to peel.
- 2. Preheat the oven to 275˚F. Set out a large roasting pan.
- 3. Preheat a dry skillet over high heat. Place the lamb shanks in the skillet, sprinkle with salt and pepper and brown on all sides, about 5 minutes per side. Transfer the lamb to the roasting pan.
- 4. Pour the broth and wine into the skillet and bring to a boil, stirring to scrape up any browned bits. Pour the liquid into the roasting pan. Add the tomatoes, rosemary, thyme, garlic, and bay leaves.
- 5. Peel the onions. Add to the roasting pan, along with the potatoes and carrots. Mix gently. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Tightly cover the pan with aluminum foil.
- 6. Bake for about 2 hours, until the meat is almost falling off the bone. Remove the bay leaves and serve.
One-Dish Tip:
Low and Slow
When braising tough cuts of meat, such as lamb shanks or pot roast, it is important to keep the temperature low and steady. Don’t try to rush the cooking by increasing the temperature — you will only toughen the meat.
Pastitsio, sometimes called Greek macaroni and cheese, is perfect for family gatherings and holiday meals. It is easily made ahead and can be reheated before serving. Like lasagna, pastitsio is a layered casserole that holds its shape and can be served in squares.
Ingredients
- 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
- 2 onions, finely chopped
- 2 pounds ground lamb or beef
- 1 can (8 ounces) unseasoned tomato sauce
- 1 can (6 ounces) tomato paste
- 1 cup water
- 1⁄2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
- 1⁄2 teaspoon dried oregano
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
- Pinch sugar, or to taste
- 1 pound tube-shaped pasta, such as penne
- 3 tablespoons butter
- 1⁄4 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
- 31⁄2 cups milk
- 3 eggs, beaten
- Freshly grated nutmeg
- 11⁄2 cups freshly grated Parmesan
Instructions
- 1. Begin heating a large pot of salted water for the pasta.
- 2. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Sauté the onions in the oil until limp, about 3 minutes. Add the lamb and sauté until browned, 8 to 10 minutes, crumbling the meat as it cooks.
- 3. Stir in the tomato sauce, tomato paste, water, cinnamon, and oregano. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and a little sugar. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer.
- 4. Cook the pasta in the boiling water until just al dente. Drain.
- 5. To make the white sauce, melt the butter over medium heat in a small saucepan. Stir in the flour to make a smooth paste. Cook for about 1 minute. Stir in the milk, a little at a time, until all the milk has been added and the sauce is smooth. Cook, stirring constantly, until the sauce is thick and smooth.
- 6. Beat the eggs in a small bowl. Add 1⁄2 cup of the hot white sauce, 1 tablespoon at a time, to warm the eggs. Stir the warmed egg mixture into the white sauce and remove from the heat. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and a grating of fresh nutmeg.
- 7. Preheat the oven to 350˚F. Lightly oil a 9- by 13-inch baking pan.
- 8. To assemble the casserole, layer half the pasta in the baking pan. Top with half the sauce, then half the Parmesan. Layer the remaining pasta, sauce, and cheese on top. Pour the white sauce over all.
- 9. Bake, uncovered, for about 40 minutes, or until hot and lightly browned.
- 10. Let stand for 10 minutes before serving.
A layered casserole of eggplant and lamb in a tomato sauce, moussaka is Greek in origin but popular throughout the Middle East. It is another great make-ahead dish, perfect for festive gatherings.
Ingredients
- Olive oil
- 11⁄2 pounds ground lamb
- 1 onion, diced
- 2 cloves garlic, minced
- 1 can (28 ounces) tomato purée
- 1⁄2 cup red wine
- 1 tablespoon dried oregano
- 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
- Pinch sugar
- 4 eggplants (4–5 pounds), peeled and sliced 3⁄8 inch thick
- 4 tablespoons butter
- 1⁄4 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
- 2 cups milk
- Freshly grated nutmeg
- 1 cup freshly grated Parmesan
Instructions
- 1. Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Sauté the lamb, onion, and garlic in the oil until the lamb loses its pink color, about 10 minutes. Drain off as much fat as possible.
- 2. Stir in the tomato purée, wine, oregano, and cinnamon. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and sugar. Reduce the heat and let simmer while you prepare the eggplant.
- 3. Preheat the broiler.
- 4. Arrange the eggplant in a single layer on the broiler pan. Brush the tops with oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and broil until browned, about 7 minutes. Turn, brush the second side with oil, and broil for about 5 minutes, until browned. Repeat with the remaining eggplant. You will have to do this in about three batches. When the broiling is completed, lower the oven temperature to 350˚F.
- 5. To prepare the topping, melt the butter over medium heat in a small saucepan. Stir in the flour to form a smooth paste and cook for 1 minute. Add the milk and cook, stirring frequently until the sauce is smooth and thick. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and a grating of nutmeg.
- 6. To assemble, layer one-third of the eggplant in a 9- by 13-inch baking dish. Top with a third of the meat sauce and sprinkle with a third of the Parmesan. Repeat to make two more layers with the remaining eggplant, meat sauce, and Parmesan. Spoon the white sauce over the top.
- 7. Bake for 20 to 30 minutes, until the topping is browned. Serve hot.
Roast Pork with Sauerkraut
Serves 4 to 6
Schweineschlegel mit Kartoffel, Karotte, Zwiebel, und Sauerkraut was thought to bring good luck when eaten on New Year’s Day. But the family who owned a pig was guaranteed to eat well throughout the upcoming winter, so maybe the luck was already there. In any case, this is an incredibly simple, incredibly delicious dish — as long as the sauerkraut is of high quality. Choose bottled or bagged sauerkraut from the refrigerated section of the grocery store and skip the canned stuff. Also, don’t overcook the pork. Today’s lean pork is best roasted until it is medium, not well done. Applesauce is a traditional accompaniment.
Ingredients
- 1 tablespoon canola oil
- 1 bone-in pork loin roast (3–4 pounds)
- 1⁄2 cup chicken broth (see recipe)
- 4 pounds sauerkraut, drained
- 6 medium red potatoes, quartered or cut into eighths
- 4 carrots, sliced 1⁄2 inch thick
- 2 onions, halved lengthwise and slivered
- 2 tablespoons caraway seeds
- Freshly ground black pepper
Instructions
- 1. Preheat the oven to 325˚F.
- 2. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the pork and brown on all sides, about 15 minutes. Remove the pork and place in a large roasting pan. Add the broth to the skillet and deglaze, scraping up any browned bits. Remove from the heat.
- 3. Mix together the sauerkraut, potatoes, carrots, onions, and caraway seeds. Arrange the sauerkraut mixture around the roast. Pour in the broth. Season generously with pepper. Tightly cover the pan with aluminum foil.
- 4. Roast for 60 to 90 minutes, until the roast registers 145–150˚F on an instant-read thermometer.
- 5. Remove the meat to a warm platter and let rest for 15 minutes. Keep the vegetables warm, or return to the oven if the potatoes are not tender.
- 6. Carve the meat and serve with the vegetables.
Ham & Potato Gratin
Serves 3 or 4
Dorothy Parker famously commented that “eternity is two people and a ham.” Many a home cook must have thought the same as she made one more dish using up the leftover holiday ham. Here’s another old-fashioned favorite.
Ingredients
- 21⁄2 pounds russet or Yukon gold potatoes (about 6 medium-sized), peeled and thinly sliced
- 4 leeks or 2 onions, trimmed and thinly sliced
- 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
- 1 thyme sprig
- 2–3 cups milk
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 1–2 cups diced ham
- 1 cup grated Gruyère
Instructions
- 1. Combine the potatoes, leeks, garlic, and thyme in a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan. Add enough milk to cover the potatoes. Season generously with salt and pepper. Simmer over medium heat, stirring occasionally until the potatoes are tender, about 20 minutes. Taste and add more salt and pepper, if desired (unless the ham is exceptionally salty, it will need plenty).
- 2. Preheat the oven to 350˚F.
- 3. Grease a 2-quart gratin dish with butter. Using a slotted spoon, make a single layer of potatoes and leeks, then a layer using half the ham. Sprinkle a third of the cheese on top. Repeat the layers, ending with a final layer of cheese. Pour in the milk that the potatoes cooked in.
- 4. Bake for about 30 minutes, until a golden crust has formed on top and the potatoes are bubbling.
- 5. Let sit for about 10 minutes, then serve hot.
Potato Flowers in Her Hair
The first cook to think of making a potato gratin is lost to history, but it could have happened at a banquet given by Louis XVI in 1785, at which only potato dishes were served — to encourage the adoption of the potato by French society. Benjamin Franklin was one of the guests and was undoubtedly charmed to see Marie Antoinette wearing potato flowers in her hair.
Flowers, of course, were not sufficient to encourage the population at large to adopt the potato into their diet. Instead, the royal gardens were planted with potatoes under the watchful eyes of armed guards, who were instructed to look the other way when potatoes were stolen by curious peasants. These potatoes were planted in the thieves’ gardens and the popularity of the potatoes increased steadily.