In the world of barbecue cook-offs, there are usually three to five main categories to be judged. And they’re the classic barbecue dishes of chicken, ribs, pork shoulder, beef brisket, and sometimes whole hog. These meats are the cornerstone of real barbecue and the pitmasters spend many days and nights cooking and perfecting them. But cooking only those few things gets a little boring even for a barbecue man, so sometimes there’s an extra category and the tradition is to call it Anything But—as in “anything but the regular categories of the day.’ This is a chance for the cooks to show their chops, so to speak, in areas that are not typical barbecue fare. It’s also a great chance for the local contest organizers to feature something that’s produced locally or even just something they think the judges would like to eat. Oh yeah, the judges really enjoy a little change of pace with the Anything But category!
Over the years, I’ve seen unique featured items such as turkey, cabbage, grits, chili, and dessert. But more often than not, it’s an open category where the cook can choose what he wants to cook and the entries run the gamut. Many of the contests have outlawed deserts in the open category, though, because it’s really not fair to judge a piece of grilled catfish against a piece of cherry cheesecake. The desserts were winning all the time! Even without desserts, it’s interesting to see the variety of dishes that come to the table. The non-barbecue cooking skills of the contestants are amazing. Most of them aren’t professional chefs, but they sure do know how to cook!
So I use the Anything But name for the chapter that catches all the dishes that don’t quite fit any where else. I, too, have omitted desserts here; they are with the side dishes. You will find some wonderful nontraditional barbecue dishes—sausage, fish, shrimp, and even a smoked Scotch egg recipe. Some of these are shorter to cook, so it’s fun to start them early and serve them as a treat to enjoy while the reallongcooked barbecue keeps chugging along.
SMOKED STUFFED BABY BELLAS
Cremini mushrooms, also known as baby bellas, look similar to regular old button mushrooms but they pack a lot more flavor. They hold up well to cooking in the barbecue pit and to big flavors like bacon and blue cheese. These are easy to assemble and a great short-cook appetizer to enjoy while waiting for the main course to finish up.
MAKES ABOUT 4 SERVINGS
⅓ cup crumbled blue cheese
2 slices bacon, cooked and finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1 tablespoon panko bread crumbs
¼ teaspoon black pepper
1 pound baby bella mushrooms
Prepare your cooker to cook indirectly at 235°F using light apple wood for smoke flavor.
In a small bowl, mix together the blue cheese, bacon, garlic, bread crumbs, and pepper. Twist the stems out of the mushrooms and scrape out the gills, being careful not to break the sides of the mushroom caps. Place the mushroom caps on a grill topper with the bottoms facing up. Spoon the blue cheese mixture into them. Put the stuffed mushrooms in the cooker and cook for 1 hour, or until the mushrooms are tender.
Serve hot.
JAMBALAYA-STUFFED BELL PEPPERS
Instead of plain old rice stuffing, we’re kicking it up a notch here with some great Louisiana flavors, as these bell peppers get a new twist with jambalaya for a stuffing. The spicy andouille sausage really makes a difference, so try to find it if you can. Add an extra jalapeño if you dare and mix the colors of the bell peppers for a great presentation.
MAKES 8 SERVINGS
JAMBALAYA
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 red onion, chopped
1 green bell pepper, chopped
1 jalapeño, minced (remove the seeds if you don’t like it hot)
3 garlic cloves, minced
2 cups (about 1 pound) chopped andouille sausage or smoked sausage
One 14½-ounce can diced tomatoes
1 tablespoon paprika
2 teaspoons dried thyme
2 teaspoons kosher salt
½ teaspoon black pepper
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
3 cups chicken broth, plus more if needed
2 cups chopped, cooked chicken (smoked or roasted)
1 cup uncooked white rice
4 large red bell peppers
4 large green bell peppers
To make the jambalaya: In a Dutch oven over medium heat, warm the vegetable oil. Add the onion and chopped bell pepper and cook for 4 minutes, stirring often. Add the jalapeño and garlic and cook for 4 minutes, stirring often. Add the sausage and cook for 4 minutes, stirring often. Add the tomatoes, paprika, thyme, salt, pepper, and cayenne. Mix well and cook for 4 minutes, stirring often. Add the broth and chicken and bring to a simmer, stirring occasionally. Add the rice and mix well. Return to a simmer. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 20 minutes, or until the rice is soft and most of the liquid is absorbed. If the liquid evaporates too quickly, add some additional chicken broth. Remove from the heat and let rest for 10 minutes.
Prepare your cooker to cook indirectly at 235°F using medium pecan wood for smoke flavor.
Cut the tops off the red and green bell peppers and remove the veins and seeds. Cut a little off the bottom if needed to get the peppers to stand up, but be careful not to cut all the way through. Stuff the peppers with the jambalaya and stand them up on a grill topper. Put the peppers in the cooker for 1½ hours, or until the peppers are tender.
Remove from the cooker and transfer the peppers to a platter. Tent loosely with foil and let rest for 5 minutes before serving.
SMOKED SCOTCH EGGS
Sausage-wrapped “Scotch” eggs are a tasty and interesting dish when breaded and fried in the traditional manner, but cooking them on the smoker makes a very special treat. The homemade sausage gets a nice crust on the outside and, if you get it cooked just right, the egg yolk will have a little bit of ooze on the inside. Just make sure to seal the sausage all the way around the egg before smoking. I like to serve these as an appetizer, but they are also fine as a nice smoked addition to a lunch salad.
MAKES 12 SERVINGS
6 large eggs
Ice water
1 pound ground pork
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon black pepper
1 teaspoon garlic powder
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
Barbecue sauce
Put the eggs in a medium saucepan and cover with cold water. Let rest for 15 minutes to warm them up before cooking. (This will help keep them from cracking.) Over high heat, bring the eggs to a boil, rolling them around in the pot frequently. When the water begins to boil, start timing and cook for 2 minutes, continuing to roll the eggs around in the pan. (This will keep the yolks in the center.) Remove the eggs from the boiling water quickly and submerge them in ice water to stop the cooking. When the eggs are cool, peel them and refrigerate.
Put the pork in a medium bowl and add the salt, pepper, garlic powder, and cayenne. Mix well and then divide the sausage into six equal portions. On waxed paper, flatten out one of the portions to a 4-inch circle. Top with an egg and wrap the sausage all around the egg, stretching as needed and sealing it completely. Do this with all the eggs and then season them liberally with the rub. Put the eggs on a pan lined with waxed paper and refrigerate for 1 hour.
Prepare your cooker to cook indirectly at 235°F using medium pecan wood for smoke flavor.
Place the eggs on a grill topper or directly on the cooking grate and cook for 1 hour and 15 minutes, or until golden brown and firm to the touch.
Transfer the eggs to a plate and let cool. Cut them in halves or quarters and serve with barbecue sauce for dipping.
BIG-TIME KIELBASA ROLL
Smoking sausage to preserve it is a long-standing barbecue tradition, but these days we usually just do it to make the sausage taste good. Homemade sausage is really just ground meat mixed with some spices, and it’s simple to do at home. The Internet has created a popular fad of smoking a “fatty,” which is really just a big sausage roll without casing. Here is my Chicago-style kielbasa-inspired version of a fatty. Serve with crackers, raw onion, and Yellow Barbecue Sauce ( 40).
MAKES 8 SERVINGS
¼ cup ice water
3 garlic cloves, crushed
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1 tablespoon paprika
1 teaspoon black pepper
1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon dried marjoram
1 pound ground chuck
1 pound ground pork
Prepare your cooker to cook indirectly at 235°F using medium apple wood for smoke flavor.
In a small bowl, combine the ice water, garlic, salt, paprika, pepper, sugar, and marjoram. Mix well and set aside.
In a large bowl, mix together the ground chuck and the ground pork. Top with the spice mixture and mix well with your hands until well blended. Lay out a sheet of aluminum foil about 12 inches by 16 inches. Form the kielbasa into a uniform log about 10 inches long and lay it on the foil. Roll the log up in the foil, sealing both ends like a candy wrapper. Put the kielbasa directly on the cooking grate and cook for 30 minutes. Open the foil, leaving the kielbasa on it, and roll the kielbasa over so the flat side is on top. Cook for another 30 minutes. The kielbasa should now be firmed up and round. Remove it from the foil completely and transfer the kielbasa directly to the cooking grate. Cook until the internal temperature reaches 165°F, about 2 hours longer.
Transfer the sausage to a platter and tent loosely with foil. Let rest for 10 minutes. Slice to serve.
BARBECUED BOLOGNA
Bologna is a popular smoked meat in the South and it’s quite good. You’ll need to start with a big chunk though; sliced deli bologna just won’t work. The cooking process firms it up, gives it a great smoky flavor, and develops a little crust on the outside. It’s delicious served at room temperature with crackers and cheese or on white bread with barbecue sauce and thinly sliced onion for a tasty sandwich.
MAKES 12 SERVINGS
One 3-pound chub or chunk bologna
Prepare your cooker to cook indirectly at 235°F using medium cherry wood for smoke flavor.
Slice off a thin piece off the bologna lengthwise so it has a flat bottom and won’t roll around. Score the top in a series of thin slashes in a diamond pattern. Season the bologna liberally with the rub. Put the bologna in the cooker and cook for at least 3 hours but up to 5 hours. It’s already fully cooked, so the recipe is very flexible, but as it cooks longer it will get smokier and develop a better outside crust.
Transfer the bologna to a cutting board. Tent loosely with foil and let rest for 5 minutes. Slice to serve.
HERBY RUBBED LEG OF LAMB
Leg of lamb has a big, bold flavor that holds up very well to cooking in the barbecue pit. The traditional garlic and herb seasonings take on a whole new flavor profile when a little smoke is added to the mix. Try serving it with traditional barbecue side dishes and barbecue sauce on the side for dipping. This is a nice way to smoke your holiday dinner.
MAKES ABOUT 10 SERVINGS
1 boneless lamb leg, rolled (4 to 5 pounds)
2 garlic cloves, cut into slivers
2 tablespoons olive oil
Prepare your cooker to cook indirectly at 235°F using medium grapevine or wine-barrel wood for smoke flavor.
With a long, narrow knife, pierce the lamb deeply in a few spots on all sides. Push the garlic deeply into the holes. Rub the olive oil all over the lamb. Season the lamb liberally with the rub on all sides. Let rest at room temperature for 20 minutes.
Put the lamb in the cooker, fat-side up. Cook for about 3 hours, until it reaches an internal temperature of 150°F for medium-rare.
Transfer the lamb to a platter and tent loosely with foil. Let rest for 20 minutes. Slice thinly to serve.
CREAMY SMOKED TILAPIA SPREAD
The mild flavor of tilapia gets kicked up with a little smoke for this recipe. Then it gets paired with some great ingredients to make a Florida favorite—smoked fish spread. Try serving this with a variety of crackers, hot sauce, and thinly sliced raw onions on the side. I cook the fish to a well-done state. This is best done the day before you plan to make the spread, then the spread itself can be made a few hours before serving.
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
SMOKED TILAPIA
1 pound tilapia fillets
One 8-ounce tub whipped cream cheese
¼ cup mayonnaise
6 green onions, white and green parts sliced thinly
1 tablespoon Louisiana hot sauce
½ lemon, zested
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon black pepper
Prepare your cooker to cook indirectly at 235°F using medium pecan wood for smoke flavor.
Cut the fillets in half and season lightly with the rub. Cook for 1½ hours, or until very firm. Transfer to a plate to cool. Cover and refrigerate until chilled.
In a large bowl, break the tilapia into small pieces and set aside.
In a medium bowl, combine the cream cheese, mayonnaise, most of the green onions (reserving some tops for garnish), the hot sauce, lemon zest, salt, and pepper. Mix well.
Pour the cream cheese over the tilapia and fold gently until combined. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour.
To serve, transfer the spread to a bowl and top with the reserved green onion tops for garnish.
SMOKED SALMON WITH HONEY-ORANGE GLAZE
Salmon and the smoker are like peanut butter and jelly. It seems that no matter what you do, smoked salmon turns out to be a winner. It’s simple to cook at home, but seems so elegant on the table. Just make sure the fish you buy is very fresh. For this recipe the salmon gets a quick brine to make it juicy and tasty on the inside, while honey and fresh orange make up a great glaze for the outside.
MAKES ABOUT 6 SERVINGS
BRINE
2 tablespoons kosher salt
1 tablespoon brown sugar
½ teaspoon onion powder
½ teaspoon black pepper
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 cup ice water
1½ to 2 pounds boneless salmon fillets
GLAZE
3 tablespoons honey
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed orange juice
1 orange, zested
⅛ teaspoon fresh thyme
Paprika
To make the brine: Combine 1 cup water with the salt, brown sugar, onion powder, pepper, and cinnamon in a small saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a simmer and cook for 4 minutes, stirring often until well blended. Transfer to a bowl. Add the ice water and mix well. Refrigerate until cold. The brine needs to be very cold before using.
One hour before you plan to cook, put the salmon in a heavyduty gallon-size plastic zip bag. Pour the brine over the salmon. Push out as much air as possible and seal the bag. Refrigerate for 1 hour.
To make the glaze: Add the honey, orange juice, orange zest, and thyme to a small bowl and mix well. Set aside.
Prepare your cooker to cook indirectly at 235°F using medium alder wood for smoke flavor.
Remove the salmon from the bag and dry well with a paper towel. Dust lightly with paprika. Place the salmon skin-side down on a grill topper in the cooker. Cook the salmon for 30 minutes, or until the white fat just begins to bubble up through the fish.
Transfer the salmon to a plate and brush with the glaze. Let rest for 5 minutes. Eat warm as an entrée or chill and serve cold or at room temperature as an hors d’oeuvre.
PLANKED SALMON WITH SOY-HONEY GLAZE
Salmon cooked on a plank picks up just a hint of the wood flavor while it cooks, and the flavor of the sweet and salty glaze combines with it perfectly. The plank makes for a dramatic presentation when it’s brought to the table, and with the salmon already cut into serving pieces, guests can serve themselves the piece that looks just right.
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
1½ pounds boneless, skinless salmon fillet, cut into 4 pieces
Salt
SOY-HONEY GLAZE
½ cup hoisin sauce
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons honey
1 teaspoon sesame oil
¼ teaspoon black pepper
Soak an alder wood cooking plank in water for 1 hour. Prepare your cooker to cook indirectly at 250°F using light alder wood smoke for flavor.
Place the salmon pieces on the plank, spacing them evenly apart. Salt the salmon lightly and place the plank in the cooker. Cook for 30 minutes.
To make the glaze: Combine the hoisin, soy sauce, honey, sesame oil, and pepper in a small bowl. Mix well with a spoon.
After the fish has cooked for 30 minutes, spoon half of the glaze over the top, coating it evenly. Cook for another 20 minutes. Spoon the rest of the glaze over the top and cook until the fish is firm, about another 20 minutes.
Transfer the whole plank to a sheet pan and take the whole thing to the table to serve.
SMOKED SHRIMP COCKTAIL
A smoked shrimp cocktail is a wonderful way to start any meal, but a particularly good way to start a barbecue meal. It’s easy to do and can be elegant. Try putting a little bit of the sauce in a martini glass with the shrimp hanging on the rim for that special-occasion look. This one is great for making ahead, too, to keep your guests occupied while you’re working on the main course.
MAKES ABOUT 6 SERVINGS
1 pound extra-large shrimp, peeled and deveined, tails on
SAUCE
½ cup tomato-based barbecue sauce
¼ cup mayonnaise
1 teaspoon prepared horseradish
1 lemon, zested
Prepare your cooker to cook indirectly at 235°F using light hickory wood for smoke flavor.
Season the shrimp liberally with the rub. If you’re using a stovetop smoker, place the shrimp directly on the cooking grate. Otherwise, place them on a grill topper and place the grill topper in the cooker. Cook for 15 minutes, and then flip the shrimp. Cook for another 15 minutes, or until they are pink and firm to the touch.
Transfer the shrimp to a platter, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate.
To make the sauce: Mix the barbecue sauce, mayonnaise, horseradish, and lemon zest in a small bowl. Whisk together. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate.
Take the shrimp and the sauce out of the refrigerator fifteen minutes before serving.
