It is worth remembering that the seasons in the southern hemisphere are the opposite of those in the northern hemisphere. The high season in Argentina is January and February, when schools break for the summer vacation. There are also winter school vacations in July. As Argentinians escape to their favorite resorts by the seaside, in the south of the country, or in the hills of Cordoba, accommodation and transportation can be harder to find. Advance booking is recommended during these busy periods.
Buenos Aires can be visited all year-round, although December, January, and February can be very hot and humid. Days are long during these summer months, making this the ideal time of year to visit Patagonia as temperatures are more bearable than during the cold and blustery winters. Conversely, the soaring temperatures in the north and northwest do not make this region the best choice to visit in summer. During winter (June to August) the temperatures are more bearable, although they can drop sharply after sunset. For those seeking to admire the vegetation and the natural beauty of the Iguazu Falls, winter and spring are the best times to visit as the weather is cooler and there is less rain.
The winter months offer the ski enthusiast the opportunity to take to the slopes in one of the many resorts in the Andean region of the country. Needless to say, adequate clothing is required for the sub-zero temperatures.
A valid passport is required to enter Argentina. Nationals of some countries will also require a visa; it is best to check with the Argentinian consulate if this is the case. Visitors arriving from non-neighboring countries are allowed to bring in up to U.S. $300 in goods without paying any import duty or local taxes and an additional U.S. $300 in goods acquired in local duty-free shops.
Visitors will normally be given permission to remain up to ninety days as a tourist. Should one envisage a longer stay, it is best to check with the consulate before departure as to what should be done to avoid unnecessary delays and being caught up in the Argentinian bureaucratic apparatus in order to regularize one’s stay in the country. Outstaying one’s permitted period is not recommended.
Vaccination certificates are not required except for cholera and yellow fever for visitors from areas where these diseases are endemic. Argentina possesses a very high standard of inoculation campaigns, and the vast majority of the population is inoculated against polio, smallpox (now eradicated), and tuberculosis.
Plants, fruits and vegetables, and perishable foods are not allowed into Argentina. Pets are allowed provided adequate proof of vaccination can be shown.
Despite the once great train network that boasted over 24,856 miles (40,000 kilometers) of railways, trains are used for suburban to city-center commuting but are no longer commonly used for long-distance journeys. Sadly, this once enviable network has fallen victim to neglect and lack of investment. Long-distance trains are not very comfortable, serve few destinations, and services are not frequent. Journeys can take many hours, and for those who can afford it, flying has become the preferred means of long-distance travel.
There are four terminal railway stations in Buenos Aires where frequent and reliable services to the suburbs depart and arrive at regular intervals. Train services to vacation resorts such as the seaside town of Mar del Plata and the southern city of Bariloche are perhaps the most popular and are still widely used by travelers during the holiday season. Fares are relatively inexpensive and early booking is recommended, particularly in summer. For those with more time on their hands and a penchant for off-the-beaten-track experiences, the Tren de las Nubes (“Train of the Clouds”) follows a route of breathtaking scenery across the northern Andes.
Buses, commonly known as colectivos, are one of the most popular means of transportation in Argentina. In large cities there are many different lines, with Buenos Aires having 144; they are clearly numbered and easily distinguishable, as most lines have distinctive colors and designs. Most buses operate on a “pay the driver” (colectivero) system, although many have ticket machines located on the bus as one boards. It is necessary to have one’s change ready to pay the fare.
In Buenos Aires there is a special bus service known as diferencial. These buses offer more comfortable seats and air-conditioning, and the number of passengers is limited to the number of seats. The routes they serve are normally more direct; the bus will only stop for passengers to alight and will only allow passengers on if there are empty seats. Not all lines offer this service.
Bus drivers are proud of their vehicles and many of them display ornate decorative objects—hanging plastic dice, flashing gearshift knobs, decorated rearview mirrors—and keep their buses very clean. Smoking is not permitted, and although eating is not explicitly forbidden it will be frowned upon and one might be asked to refrain from doing it.
Bus stops are located at regular intervals and one normally boards the bus by the front door and alights by the rear door. When one is ready to alight, the driver can be alerted via a bell located above the rear door.
The long-distance coach service in Argentina is quite good and there is a wide network of routes from Buenos Aires to all the other provinces as well as to neighboring countries, mainly Uruguay, Paraguay, and Brazil. As with some colectivos, coaches offer a standard service and a slightly better option (diferencial). The former is cheaper—seats are not guaranteed and do not have air-conditioning or heating, which given the extreme temperatures to be found in Argentina is something travelers should bear in mind. The latter is more expensive but well worth it, particularly for long journeys. It offers comfortable reclining seats and in some cases flat beds for long-distance travel, air-conditioning, and heating. Many have an on-board service offering snacks and drinks.
Coach services depart from Buenos Aires Bus Terminal (Terminal de Buenos Aires) near Retiro rail station. There are over 140 coach lines operating from this terminal, and tickets can be purchased on level three of the building.
As in most large cities, taxis are common and are an easy and relatively cost-effective way of getting around. To avoid risk it is advisable to note the license plate and observe the driver. In Buenos Aires there are over 32,000 registered taxis, making it easy to find one. Taxis are black with a yellow roof and display their license number on the doors in yellow letters. Taxis circulate day and night in the city of Buenos Aires and can be hailed anywhere in the street. The cost of the journey is metered, with the amount payable shown on the meter. Tipping is usually done by rounding up the fare.
Radio taxis must be ordered by telephone and will collect the passenger at the agreed upon address. This is a safer alternative, particularly if one travels late at night.
Remises are privately owned vehicles akin to minicabs in the U.K. The price of the journey is fixed in advance—this ensures a slightly better service and that the driver will take the most direct route to the passenger’s destination. The remise is normally cheaper than a taxi—prices are usually verbally agreed upon—and is frequently used for journeys to and from the airport.
Buenos Aires has an extensive underground network, the oldest in Latin America; this is still evident in some of the rolling stock, which is not as modern as some of the networks in other countries. The metro is referred to as the subterráneo, or subte for short, and consists of five lines (named A to E) serving eighty stations across its 29 miles (46 kilometers) of network. Although perhaps not the most comfortable way to get around Buenos Aires, as it can be noisy and quite hot in summer, it is quick and efficient and is used by over a quarter of a million people each year.
The subte runs from Monday to Saturday from 6:00 a.m. to 11:00 p.m., and Sunday from 8:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m. Tickets are one fixed price irrespective of the length of the journey and can be purchased at stations. There are also travel cards available; these are Subtepass, for one or more journeys, and Subtecard, which can be renewed or extended by direct debit to one’s credit card.
There is a good ferry service between Argentina and Uruguay. The largest company is Buquebus, offering daily services between Buenos Aires and the cities of Colonia and Montevideo and the Uruguayan seaside resort of Punta del Este. Although relatively costly, this service is fast and efficient with a modern fleet of boats able to carry both passengers and cars. This option reduces the length of the journey to Uruguay should one decide to go by car.
Car rental in Argentina can be expensive, although it does offer a great amount of flexibility to the visitor. There are a number of car rental companies, including the major international ones (Avis, Hertz, and Europcar) as well as local firms. These can be found in most cities and popular tourist destinations. Visitors can use their country’s driver’s license, although it is highly advisable to obtain an international one. Drivers must be eighteen years old or over.
Expressways are privately run in Argentina, so their use is not free; there are toll booths along the way. Expressways are well maintained and are usually quite wide, particularly near major cities, but they tend to become less reliable further away from those cities. There are many gas stations along the expressways but for long journeys, particularly on off-expressway country roads, service stations might be harder to find. It is therefore sensible to fill the tank before leaving the expressway. In Argentina, gasoline is known as nafta.
Driving conditions on country roads are poor; roads are old, lack basic maintenance, and are often badly signposted.
RULES OF THE ROAD
A certain element of bravado is required to drive in Argentina. Sadly, many basic rules are not followed and Argentina has one of the highest accident rates in the world. Visitors are advised to stay below the speed limit and follow the highway code. Drivers tend to be short-tempered and can be quite aggressive—the horn is constantly used, and bus drivers rule the roads with their rather discourteous driving habits. Some rules:
It is always best to park in a parking lot (playa de estacionamiento), which is usually supervised. Street parking is allowed, but drivers are strongly advised to make sure they are legally parked. Tow trucks (grua) and clamps (cepo) are in operation in main cities.
Despite its broad avenues and synchronized traffic lights, traffic in Buenos Aires can be chaotic, and drivers tend to be more aggressive than in smaller towns and rural areas.
Traffic is disorderly and the driving attitude is very defensive, with little if any respect for other drivers and even less for pedestrians. Driving in Buenos Aires demands extreme caution and quick thinking as advance warning and signaling are not commonplace.
From Argentina, one can easily drive to neighboring countries. There are expressways that cover long distances to Chile, Bolivia, Paraguay, Brazil, and Uruguay, although the latter is more easily reached by ferry, and with a significant reduction in journey length. The ferry is also recommended if you are driving to Brazil.
There are border controls where a passport and visa (if required) should be produced, together with your vehicle registration documents and insurance policy. It is advisable to check with the authorities for the most up-to-date requirements. The Automovil Club Argentino provides information on most driving-related services, including roadside assistance and insurance.
There are thirty-two airports used for passenger flights. The main airport is Ezeiza Airport (EZE), located about 22 miles (34 kilometers) from the city center. This is where most international flights arrive and depart, offering frequent service to Europe, the U.S.A., and various Latin American destinations. It is worth remembering that departing passengers will have to pay an airport tax, a tax equivalent to 5 percent of the price of the ticket, and a security tax in addition to that.
For air travel from Buenos Aires to other provinces within the country, or to Uruguay and some Brazilian destinations, there is a regular and frequent schedule from Aeroparque Jorge Newbery (AEP), the airport for domestic and regional flights located by the banks of the River Plate. There are more than 400 flights operating daily; most routes are operated by Aerolineas Argentinas (AR), the main national airline, although other, smaller airlines offer scheduled services to selected destinations. Aeroparque, as it is normally referred to, is conveniently located near the city center with easy access. Visitors are advised to take only licensed taxis or remises to the airport.
London in Argentina
The land upon which Jorge Newbery Airport is built was reclaimed from the River Plate and filled with rubble from the bombing of London in the Second World War. The ships that transported grain and cereals from Argentina to Europe during the war had to carry some ballast on their way back. It was this ballast that was used to fill the reclaimed land.
There are ample opportunities for cycling around the country. Mountain biking has become increasingly popular, with the south of the country, near Bariloche, and the national parks being visited by many enthusiasts every year.
Pharmacists will dispense most medications, with many of them staying open all night. A list of pharmacies that are de turno—open all night, based on a rotation system—is normally displayed outside or on the window. Some medicines that might require a prescription in other countries may be sold over the counter in Argentina.
The state of the national health service in Argentina reflects the prevailing economic crisis and lack of investment. The medical profession in Argentina is still very highly regarded and of quite high standard, however, particularly in the private sector. Private medical insurance is more than strongly recommended. Unlike many countries, the private sector allows patients to make an appointment directly with a specialist rather than having to be referred by their family doctor, although the latter practice is still recommended.
Argentina has always been an attractive tourist destination, and the provision of accommodation has developed considerably over the last few years. There are options to meet all budgets, ranging from modest one- or two-star establishments to first-class international hotels. The major international chains are present, along with independent luxury hotels such as the Alvear Palace in the elegant area of Recoleta in Buenos Aires, one of the top hotels in Latin America. From modern towers and nineteenth-century French architecture to simple rural hotels or hosterias, there is no shortage of accommodation.
Accommodation in popular vacation destinations such as seaside and ski resorts is usually of a good standard. Huts and cabins are very popular, particularly in the lake region in the south near the main ski resorts. They offer comfort and bucolic locations close to many national parks.
Residence inns (apart-hotel) are normally restricted to larger cities and are suitable for longer stays. Toward the lower end of the budget, bed and breakfast accommodation (hostales) is a good option for travelers wishing to explore local areas.
In general terms, Argentinian cities are quite safe. Unfortunately this relative safety has been affected by the economic crises of the last few years, and there has been an increase in both petty theft and violent crime. This is most evident in Buenos Aires, not only on account of its size and fast pace but also because of the widening gap between the rich and the poor. In a city where walking late at night once presented few problems, it is now advisable to take precautions. Be careful with belongings such as bags, purses, and mobile phones, and do not draw attention to yourself by carrying valuable objects, at least visibly.
It is sensible to avoid dark, empty streets, walking alone at night, and generally putting oneself in a vulnerable position, as one would anywhere. It is not uncommon for beggars to approach tourists. The best policy is to ignore them and move away. It is not advisable to give them money, at the risk of being robbed, or to engage in arguments or conversation.
Sadly, the number of violent crimes has soared, and robberies (often at gunpoint), muggings, and kidnappings (particularly in taxis) have become more frequent. It is therefore important to pay attention before boarding a taxi, and it is recommended that visitors take only registered radio taxis in order to avoid risky situations.
Smaller cities and towns are by and large peaceful, safe places where life runs at a slower pace. Visitors will find people there hospitable, friendly, and very welcoming.