DISTANCE: 2km (1.2 miles)
TIME: A half-day
START: Wanshang Bird and Flower Market, Tibet Road
END: Shikumen Open House Museum
POINTS TO NOTE: Take the metro (line 10) to Laoximen station and head to the starting point. Alternatively, take a taxi to Tibet Road/Fuxing Road. This is a good route if you have children in tow.
Until recently, Xintiandi was just one of many Shanghai lilongs, or lane neighbourhoods. Its fortunes altered in 1999 when a developer, unable to build above the birthplace of the Communist Party next door, decided to retain the lilong within an upscale shopping and dining enclave. This novel gentrification project, unprecedented in China, became a nationwide sensation. Xintiandi, meaning ‘new paradise’, comes from a song that was popular in old Shanghai.
Shikumen Open House Museum
David Shen Kai/Apa Publications
Old Xintiandi
Despite the five-star luxury being constructed all around, there are still some heritage pockets around Xintiandi, including the lane neighbourhoods, the streetside eateries and the Wanshang Bird and Flower Market 1 [map] (Wanshang Huaniao Shichang; 417 Tibet Road; daily 7am–7pm). During the summer cricket season, an entire section of the market is devoted to the insects, their paraphernalia and cricket fights. Songbirds are in another section, while the rest of the market is filled with more traditional pets.
Crickets in jars at the Wanshang Bird and Flower Market
David Shen Kai/Apa Publications
Cross Tibet Road and walk through the archway to the Dongtai Road Antiques Market 2 [map] (Dongtai Lu Shichang; daily 10am–4pm), a mostly outdoor market covering more than two blocks, with 100 booths and two-storey shophouses with a mix of serious antiques and kitsch.
Mao books and jade are among items for sale at the Dongtai Road Antique Market
Ryan Pyle/Apa Publications
Turn left on to Dongtai Road. At the next intersection, turn right on Zizhong Road, then left on to Ji’an Road to soak up some genuine lane neighbourhood atmosphere. On the southwest corner of Ji’an Road and Fuxing Road, you may see paper models of fully furnished houses for sale. These are burned at funerals to ensure that one’s ancestors are comfortable in the afterlife.
On the east side of the street, the Fa Zang Temple 3 [map] (Fa Zang Si; 271 Ji’an Road; daily 7am–4pm; charge), built in 1932, is probably the only Chinese Buddhist temple anywhere that incorporates Western architectural elements in its design.
New Xintiandi
Return to Fuxing Road and turn left, then right on to Ji’nan Road. At Hubin Road, turn left. On your right is One Corporate Avenue, with luxury car dealerships – this was a lane neighbourhood just a decade ago.
Turn left on to Huangpi Road, then right on to Xinye Road to reach the Site of the First National Congress of the Communist Party of China 4 [map] (Zhonggong Yida Huizhi; 76 Xingye Road; daily 9am–4pm; free). It was here, at No. 106, that the Chinese Communist Party was formed in 1921. Upstairs, the history of the CCP (according to the CCP) is recounted; the table around which the 13 delegates sat, including a young Mao Zedong, is set with 13 stools and teacups.
From the museum exit, return to Xinye Road to the entrance to Xintiandi 5 [map], the city’s most popular shopping, dining and entertainment centre in the unique setting of a re-fashioned grey-brick lane neighbourhood. On your right, the Shikumen Open House Museum 6 [map] (Wulixiang Bowuguan; Lane 181 Taicang Road, House 25; Sun–Thur 10.30am–10.30pm, Fri–Sat 11am–11pm; charge) recreates the interior of an authentic lane house. It’s a fitting memorial to the houses demolished to create Xintiandi. Finish with lunch at Crystal Jade, see 1. Across the road from here, the Xintiandi Style mall is filled with hip boutiques by young Chinese and Asian designers.
Food and Drink
1 Crystal Jade
2/F, Nos. 6–7 South Block Xintiandi, Lane 123, Xingye Road; tel: 6385 8752; daily 11am–11pm; $$
Sleek decor, and top-notch dim sum and cuisine from across China. Favourites include dan dan mian – spicy Sichuan noodles with a chilli and peanut sauce; and hong shao rou, a Shanghainese pork dish. Reserve in advance.