DISTANCE: 16–20km (10–12.5 miles), walking and taxis
Time: Two days
START: Bai Causeway, West Lake
END: Museum of Chinese Medicine
POINTS TO NOTE: The frequent high-speed train service from Shanghai will get you to Hangzhou in under an hour. Once here, you can get around by taxi or hire a car. If you’re a fan of tea, come in April to taste the first of the new crop of Hangzhou’s famous Longjing tea.
Hangzhou was built on wealth, earned by its fortuitous position as the southern terminus of the Grand Canal and by royal privilege as China’s imperial capital during the Song Dynasty. It quickly became an important centre for the silk industry and, as a favourite retreat for China’s emperors, it was a place where the noble arts and leisure were cherished. Cycles of destruction – the Taiping Rebellion, which razed the city in 1861, and the Cultural Revolution from 1966 to 1976 – have been interspersed with periods of prosperity, and today Hangzhou is on the up again.
Hangzhou’s West Lake at sunset
David Shen Kai/Apa Publications
West Lake sights
Boat tours are an ideal way to see Hangzhou’s legendary West Lake (Xi Hu) and its attractions. Row yourself or hop aboard a junk, a relaxing way to get a perspective on the lake. The boat ride will take you past Mid-Lake Pavilion and Ruan Yuan’s Mound, and you can disembark at Xiao Ying Island. Here, you’ll be able to see one of the legendary views of West Lake, a trio of 17th-century stone pagodas floating on the lake called Three Pools Mirroring the Moon. Disembark and head to the northern section of the lake and the Bai Causeway 1 [map] (Bai Di), named after one of Hangzhou’s poet-governors, Bai Juyi. Hangzhou’s famous Broken Bridge (Duan Qiao) stands at the entrance, so-called because when the winter snow on the bridge melts, it appears as if it has been split in two. The bridge is a favourite tourist sight, famous as the setting for the folk tale of Lady White Snake.
Continue south on Bai Causeway to the Autumn Moon on a Calm Lake pavilion (Pinghu Qiuyue), much depicted in paintings and one of the traditional spots from which to view the lake. A small road to the right leads to Crane Pavilion (Fanghe Ting), built in 1915 in memory of the Song Dynasty poet Lin Hejing, who is said to have lived here alone with only a crane for company.
Just to the west of Autumn Moon on a Calm Lake pavilion, stop for lunch at Lou Wai Lou, see 1, Hangzhou’s most famous restaurant, with stupendous lake views and delicious classic Hangzhou dishes – make sure you reserve in advance.
Gu Shan Island
Bai Di causeway connects the mainland with Gu Shan Island (Gushan Dao), home to the impressive Zhejiang Provincial Museum 2 [map] (Zhejiang Sheng Bowuguan; 25 Gushan Lu; Tue–Sun 9am–5pm; free). Built in 1929 in the Modernist Sino-Western ‘Nanjing Decade’ architectural style, the library is located on the lush grounds of Ming Emperor Qianlong’s palace, when the capital was in Hangzhou. The seven halls hold more than 100,000 cultural relics; highlights include the renowned Celadon Hall.
A short walk west is the Xiling Seal Engraving Society (Xiling Yinshe; 8.30am–4.30pm; free), with fascinating exhibitions of seals through the ages displayed in pavilions dotted along the hillside. Head behind the Society buildings, up the worn path to the 11-storey unrestored Pagoda of Avatamsaka Sutra (Huayanjing Ta), built in 1924. The pagoda and surrounding area is a delightfully quiet spot where locals come for a cup of tea. Surrounded by trees, it makes a lovely place for a break.
Head back down to Gu Shan’s southern gate, where you’ll find the Sigillography Museum (Zhongghuo Yingxue Bowuguan; daily 8.30am–4.30pm; free). The small, very modern museum recounts the history of the Chinese seal, with displays ranging from clay shards to tiny carved seals.
Tombs and temples
Nearby is the Tomb and Temple of Yue Fei 3 [map] (Yuefen He Yuemiao; west of Beishan Lu; daily 7am–6pm; charge), a memorial to the 12th-century Song patriot commander who, despite his success against invaders from the north, was framed, arrested and killed with his son Yueyang on trumped-up charges. He was exonerated and given a proper burial 21 years after his death, in 1163. No longer a functioning temple, its main hall is dominated by a Yue Fei statue with a plaque in Chinese that reads: ‘Recover our lost territories’ (a reference to Taiwan). Eight murals tell the story of Yue Fei’s life. Laid out as a Song Dynasty garden, the temple is connected to the tomb grounds. The back of the temple leads to the Temple of the Purple Cloud (Ziyun Dong), the oldest natural cave on the ridge. From here, it’s a pleasant walk into the peaceful surroundings of Precious Stone Hill (Baoshi Shan), with views of the 10th-century Baochu Pagoda (Baochu Ta) to the east.
End your day by taking a taxi to Xihutiandi, a restaurant, shopping and entertainment complex set in a collection of handsomely refurbished buildings that sit on the eastern shore of West Lake. This is Hangzhou’s answer to Shanghai’s Xintiandi and, like Xintiandi, it provides an upscale experience coupled with the charm of an authentic local setting.
Seated Buddhas in Lingyin Temple
David Shen Kai/Apa Publications
Lingyin Temple
Dreamstime
Traditional seals on display
David Shen Kai/Apa Publications
Lingyin Temple
Begin your second day at one of China’s most famous temples: Lingyin Temple 4 [map] (Lingyin Si; 1 Fayun Lane; daily 5am–6pm; charge), or ‘Temple of the Soul’s Retreat’, tucked into the hills west of West Lake. This is Hangzhou’s second-biggest attraction after West Lake, so try to visit early in the day to escape the worst of the crowds. The remains of the Indian monk who built the temple in AD 326 are in the seven-storey Liugong Pagoda (Liugong Ta) at the entrance.
One of China’s five famous Chan (Zen) sect Buddhist temples, Lingyin has been rebuilt several times, but remarkably it was spared during the Cultural Revolution. This makes it one of the few genuinely ancient temples left in China, and it contains some of the country’s rarest relics. These include the lovely 10th-century stone pagodas in front of the Hall of the Four Heavenly Kings. Inside, an 800-year-old statue of Skanda, the Guardian of Buddhist Law and Order, protects an image of the Maitreya (Future) Buddha. Go through the temple, exit via the rear door and cross the courtyard to the Grand Hall. Here, you’ll find China’s largest sitting Buddha: a 20m (65ft) gilded statue of Sakyamuni Buddha. This 1956 replica of a Tang Dynasty statue is carved from 24 blocks of gilded camphor wood.
Feilai Feng
From the temple, follow the signs directly south to the evocatively named Peak That Flew from Afar 5 [map] (Feilai Feng), so named because founding Indian monk Huili exclaimed that it looked so much like one in India that it must have flown here. It’s easy to see his point: Feilai Feng is smaller than the neighbouring sandstone peaks.
Its origins aside, Feilai Feng’s main attraction is its stone carvings on the rock face. The 240 mostly intact carvings date from the 10th century to the 14th century, with the oldest ones being the 10th-century Guanyin (Goddess of Mercy) in the Deep Dragon Cave (Longhong Dong) and the carvings in Shot of Gleam Cave (Shexu Dong). But the favourite is the famous fat, jolly Laughing Buddha.
Follow the path west and the signs to Fayun Village, past the Temple of Goodness (Yongfu Si). This village has been luxuriously refurbished as the home of the Amanfayun resort where you can have lunch, see 2, followed by a traditional tea ceremony featuring Hangzhou’s famous Longjing tea at the Teahouse. Take a moment and wander through the complex of restored village houses – it’s eminently luxurious, and the meticulous restoration of the thatched roofs and stone walls against the age-old landscape of mountains and ancient trees evoke the charm of old China.
Dragon Well Tea Park
David Shen Kai/Apa Publications
T’ai chi in the morning mist
David Shen Kai/Apa Publications
At the Tomb and Temple of Yue Fei
David Shen Kai/Apa Publications
Dragon Well Village
The Amanfayun staff can order a taxi to take you to your next destination: Dragon Well Village (Longjing Cun), beginning at the Dragon Well 6 [map] (Longjing) itself. Hangzhou’s renowned tea of the same name comes from this idyllic mist-laced village atop Longjing Hill. The Dragon Well is composed of two levels of springs that feed the pond creating a line when the water is disturbed, instead of the usual concentric circles. The pure water is said to improve the complexion – which is why you’ll see visitors splashing their faces with the cool water. The annual tea harvest occurs in April when you can pick leaves fresh from the terraced fields and have farmers gently dry your harvest in roadside woks.
From Dragon Well, follow Longjing Lu north about 3km (2 miles) downhill, past the pretty tea terraces in the village to the China National Tea Museum 7 [map] (Zhongguo Chaye Bowuguan; Longjing Lu; Tue–Sun 8.30am–4.30pm; free), just north of the village proper. The museum does an excellent job of documenting the history and culture of tea production in its five buildings. Be sure to visit the beautifully decorated tea rooms of the different ethnic minorities, one of the highlights here.
From the museum, take a taxi southeast to the lovely Six Harmonies Pagoda (Liuhe Ta; daily 6am–6.30pm; charge; ask the taxi to wait for you). The pagoda, which stands near the northern bank of the Qiantang River, was built in 970 in the hope that it might control the river’s mighty tidal waves (it has been unsuccessful). It was last rebuilt in 1900, but the interior dates to 1123. The Song Dynasty pagoda may not have managed to stop the massive tides, but it is still the traditional spot from which to watch the famous tidal bore when a wall of water surges as high as 6m (20ft) down the Qiantang River during the autumn equinox in mid-September.
Continue onwards via car to Hefang Jie, on the eastern side of West Lake. This shopping street has recreated a Qing Dynasty setting; shops sell traditional local snacks, plus Chinese knick-knacks and souvenirs.
Just off Hefang Jie is the gorgeous Museum of Chinese Medicine (Hu Qingyu Tang; daily 8.30am–5pm; charge), a Qing-era building that is a working pharmacy and clinic, reputedly the oldest in China. Despite the name, there isn’t much to the museum aside from a few signs (in Chinese), but go in to see the period architecture, pretty courtyards, ornate carving – and the doctors going about their business as they have done for a century.
Hangzhou’s top evening attraction is Impression West Lake (www.hzyxxh.com) a dazzling music, dance and laser pageant created by Chinese film director Zhang Yimou and performed nightly right on the surface of West Lake. The 70-minute extravaganza is based on Legend of White Snake, a well-loved (and rather tragic) West Lake fairytale set in the Southern Song Dynasty. A 1,800-seat amphitheatre and wooden boat are set up on the banks of the Yuehu Lake Scenic Area (get a seat in the centre of the amphitheatre for best views), and the lake itself becomes a moonlit stage against a backdrop of real-life pagoda-studded mountains.
Xixi National Wetland Park
West Lake isn’t Hangzhou’s only watery attraction. In the city’s west, the Xixi National Wetland Park (Xihu; charge) covers 11.5 sq km of marshy wilderness. Designated China’s first national wetland park in 2005, it offers cruises through the winding waterways that are home to 90 species of migratory birds. You can alight at various stops en route to wander along nature trails lined with mulberry, hibiscus and persimmon trees, go freshwater fishing, and explore the low-lying farming villages, nunneries and noblemen’s residences.
Dinner by West Lake
If it’s time for dinner, head to the eastern shore of West Lake for superior local cuisine at 28 Hubin Road, see 3, or if you are craving non-Chinese food, venture to the north of West Lake for a meal at Angelo’s, see 4, a trendy Italian spot.
Food and Drink
1 Lou Wai Lou
30 Gushan Lu; tel: 571 8796 9023; www.louwailou.com.cn; daily 9am–10pm; $$
Hangzhou’s most renowned restaurant may be packed with tourists, but it still features some of the most well executed local treats in the city, such as beggar’s chicken and Dongpo pork – all with a truly unbeatable view of West Lake.
2 Amanfayun
22 Fayun Nong, Xihujiedao Xihufengjingmingsheng District; tel: 571 8732 9999; www.amanresorts.com; $$$$
Amanfayun has several restaurants in smartly refurbished village houses, including a high-end Western restaurant serving a gourmet selection of international dishes that change with the season, a casual steam house showcasing local village-style dishes, a vegetarian house taking cues from the nearby Zen temples and a teahouse offering classic tea ceremonies. It’s a relaxing spot after a morning of sightseeing.
3 28 Hubin Road
Hyatt Regency Hangzhou, 28 Hubin Road, tel: 571 8779 1234 ext 2828; http://hangzhou.regency.hyatt.cn; daily 11.30am–2.30pm, 5.30–10pm, last order 30 mins prior to closing; $$$
Fashionable hotel restaurant beside West Lake serving superb local Hangzhou cuisine – don’t miss the Dongpo pork belly, beggar’s chicken and vinegar lake carp.
4 Angelo’s
No. 6, Lane 2, Baoshi Hill, Baochu Road; tel: 571 8521 2100; www.angelos-restaurant.com; 11am–2pm, 5.30pm–midnight, last orders 11pm; $$
If you fancy a break from local cuisine, Hangzhou’s contemporary Italian trattoria, a short drive from West Lake, serves excellent thin-crust pizzas, pastas and other Italian favourites, complemented by a comprehensive wine list and welcoming service.
