Contents

Other Books by the Author

Acknowledgements

Historical Note

Map

Foreword

Chapter 1 Dispossessed on the Frontier

Chapter 2 Hospitality from the State

Chapter 3 Disabled on the Road

Chapter 4 Bucharest under Black Ice

Chapter 5 Indirectly to the Painted Monasteries

Chapter 6 A Nasty Video in Timisoara

Chapter 7 Jimbolia, Jollifications and Forebodings

Chapter 8 A Minor Mishap in Maramures

Chapter 9 Klausenburg/Kolozsvar/Cluj-Napoca: Transylvania’s Capital

Chapter 10 Wheeling and Dealing

Chapter 11 Village Contrasts

Chapter 12 Footless in Moldavia

Chapter 13 Two Wheels in the Carpathians

Chapter 14 The Flavour of ’91

Historical Chronology