t Strolling along the promenade beside the clear blue waters of Levanzo’s small harbour
The Egadi islands of Favignana (the largest of the three), Levanzo and Marettimo were connected to mainland Sicily 600,000 years ago. As the sea level gradually rose, the links were submerged, slowly changing the islands into an archipelago in the centre of the Mediterranean. These charming islands are now popular for holidays and swimming as they are easily reached from Trapani.
t Strolling along the promenade beside the clear blue waters of Levanzo’s small harbour
EXPERIENCE The Egadi Islands and the Northwest
n Double-tap image to read the labels
This island is made up of two distinct parts. The eastern side is flat, with pastureland and farmland, while the other half is craggy and barren. In the middle is the small town of Favignana, which was rebuilt in the 1600s over its original medieval layout. Sights worth visiting are the Chiesa Matrice (dedicated to the Immaculate Conception), the buildings constructed during the height of the tuna fishing industry and the 19th-century Palazzo Florio, which is now the Town Hall.
There are different coves to visit, from the beautiful Cala Stornello to the Previto Islet, from Cala Rotonda to Cala Grande, and from Punta Ferro to Punta Faraglione, where you will find prehistoric caves with Paleolithic rock art. The perimeter of the eastern part starts from Punta San Nicola and arrives at Cala Rossa, where there are heaps of tufa from the island quarries. From Cala Rossa to Bue Marino and from Cala Azzurra to Punta Lunga, the coast is characterized by fine sandy beaches and crystalline waters.
The smallest of the Egadi Islands has a wilder aspect than Favignana: the tall, rocky coastline is dominated by a cultivated plateau. There is only one small village, Cala Dogana, and the landscape is largely barren and desolate, interrupted here and there by the thick scrubby underbrush common in this part of the Mediterranean. A series of footpaths crosses the island and provides some spectacular walks to the beautiful Cala Tramontana bay.
Northwest of Cala Dogana is the Grotta del Genovese, which can be reached on foot in about two hours or by boat. The grotto is decorated with a series of carved Palaeolithic and Neolithic drawings of human figures, animals and idols, some in a rather naturalistic style, others rendered more schematically.
Insider Tip
For those looking to practise the fine art of doing nothing (dolce far niente), spend some time on the peaceful island of Levanzo or remote, car-free Marettimo —unspoilt sanctums for strolling and lazing on the beach, and less than an hour by hydrofoil from Trapani.
The rugged, mountainous and varied landscape of Marettimo, the first island in the group to break off from the mainland, is rather striking. The paths crossing the island – there are no roads or hotels here – will introduce you to a world of limestone pinnacles and caves leading up to Monte Falcone (686 m/ 2,250 ft). Marettimo has many rare plant species that are only only found on the island – caused by its long isolation from the mainland– as well as moufflon (long-horned mountain sheep) and wild boar. The Punta Troia fort housed a Bourbon penal colony where the Risorgimento hero Guglielmo Pepe was held for three years. Not far from the tiny village of Marettimo there are some ancient Roman buildings and, in the vicinity, a small Byzantine church.
Experience The Egadi Islands and the Northwest
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Eat La Bettola Sit on the pavement-side patio of this pleasant, informal restaurant and eat local dishes such as fish couscous, busiati pasta with a pesto of tuna, anchovies, tomato and basil, or fish grilled on lava stone. ⌂ Via Nicotera 47, Favignana ¢ Winter: Mon § 0923-921 988 ¡¡¡ Il Giardino delle Aloe Fresh fish from the island’s fleet is served in a garden of aloes near the tremendous bay of Cala Rossa. The menu depends on the catch, but try a slice of the famous tuna. ⌂ Contrada Grotta Perciata, Favignana ¢ Nov–Mar: Mon ∑ ilgiardinodellealoe.it ¡¡¡ |