t Piazza Armerina’s Duomo overlooking the half-medieval, half-Baroque old town
t Piazza Armerina’s Duomo overlooking the half-medieval, half-Baroque old town
Situated in the middle of an area inhabited since the 8th century BC, Piazza Armerina developed in the Middle Ages, a period marked by frequent clashes between the local population – strongly influenced by centuries of Arab domination – and their Latin conquerors. After the huge devastation wrought in the 12th century by continuing battles between these two factions, Piazza Armerina was recreated around the Colle Mira hill (in the middle of the present-day Monte quarter) and was populated by a colony of Lombards from Piacenza. A new, massive defensive wall system was built in the late 14th century, but the town soon spread well beyond its fortifications into the surrounding hills and slopes.
In the heart of town is a large Aragonese castle, built by King Martin I in the late 14th century, whose massive towers dominate the Cathedral. Dedicated to Our Lady of the Assumption, the Cathedral is flanked by the campanile (bell tower) of another church which had been built on the same site in the 14th century. Inside, look out for the choir, built in 1627, and a wooden crucifix painted in the late 15th century. Entry to the cathedral also affords access to the adjacent Museo Diocesano, which has a small but impressive collection of vestments, monstrances and reliquaries on display.
Beyond the Duomo, the town has a great deal else to offer. Piazza Garibaldi is the heart of town life, boasting the Baroque Palazzo del Senato and two palatial mansions belonging to the barons of Capodarso. The whole of the historic centre, with its many charming medieval alleys, steps and lanes, deserves further exploration on foot.
Not far from the centre, at the end of Via Tasso, is Chiesa del Priorato di Sant’Andrea, founded in 1096 and then acquired by the Knights of the Order of the Holy Sepulchre. This magnificent example of Sicilian Romanesque architecture has a commanding view over a valley. Do not miss seeing the series of 12th- to 14th-century frescoes inside (visits are allowed only on Sundays during Mass).
t The Castello di Falconara near Licata, watching over Mediterranean shores
Not far from Licata is the village of Falconara, famous most of all for the impressive castle towering above the sea from the top of a rocky bluff. The Castello di Falconara was built in the 15th century. It is usually closed, but you can make an appointment to view with the custodian.
Towards Licata is the Salso river, the second longest in Sicily. Its name derives from the many outcrops of rock salt that make its waters salty (salso means saline). The river flows through the Sommatino plateau and down a series of gullies before meandering across the coastal plains.
At 931 m (3,054 ft) the mountain town of Enna is the highest provincial capital in Italy. In antiquity Enna was first Greek, then Carthaginian and finally Roman. It remained a Byzantine stronghold even after the Arab conquest of Palermo, and was then conquered by general Al-Abbas Ibn Fadhl in 859; it was wrested from the Muslims only in 1087. From that time it was repeatedly fortified around the strongholds of Castello di Lombardia and Castello Vecchio (present-day Torre di Federico). The defensive walls, no longer visible, were the basis of the town’s plan, while all the principal sites of religious and civic power were constructed on what is now Via Roma.
The town’s exceptional position means splendid views. Going up Via Roma, you first come to Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, site of San Francesco d’Assisi, the only original part of which is the fine 15th-century bell tower. In Piazza Colajanni you will see the façade of Palazzo Pollicarini, which has many Catalan Gothic features, as well as the former church of Santa Chiara.
In 1307 Eleonora, wife of Frederick II of Aragón, founded the Cathedral of Enna. The building was destroyed by fire in the mid-1400s and subsequently rebuilt. The Cathedral is richly decorated with an assortment of statues and paintings.
The Museo Regionale Interdisciplinare di Enna has a fine display of prehistoric, Greek and Roman archaeological items found in the town, in the area around and near Lake Pergusa. But the pride and joy of Enna are its fortresses. The Castello di Lombardia is one of the grandest in Sicily. A tour here includes the three courtyards, the Torre Pisana and the Rocca di Cerere. In the public gardens is the octagonal Torre di Federico II, the only remaining part of the original defences.
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§ 0935-507 63 04 # 9am–7pm daily
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⌂ Piazza Mazzini 8 § 0935-500 875 # 10am–7pm daily
EXPERIENCE Agrigento and the Southwest
Easter celebrations of the Misteri, or statues of the Stations of the Cross, are of great importance. At Enna they begin on Palm Sunday and last until Easter Sunday the following week. Each day processions make their way through the streets of Enna, including a huge torchlit procession on Good Friday. The celebrations culminate on Easter Sunday, when the Resurrected Christ and the Virgin Mary statues meet in Piazza Duomo.
t Reconstruction of the city of Morgantina as it appeared around 300 BC
Situated about 4 km (2 miles) from Aidone, the ancient city of Morgantina was founded by the Morgeti, a population from Latium who settled here around 1000 BC. The city was then occupied by Greek colonists. Its golden age, when it was a strategic trade centre between the north and south of Sicily, was in the Hellenistic and Roman periods. From the top of the hill visitors have a fine view of what remains of the theatre, the city streets and the agora.
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STAY Castello di Falconara This 14th-century fortress-turned-hotel more than hints at the grandeur of its old-world charm and affluence. Hugging a rocky cliff, 16 rooms are sprinkled about the manor house, some of which are part of a luxurious apartment that sleeps 13. Along with beach access, a lake-sized swimming pool and a sea-facing veranda, this historic Sicilian castle promises a stay fit for royalty. ⌂ Strada Statale 115, KM 245, Butera, Caltanissetta # castellodifalconara.it ¡¡¡ |
t Caltanissetta Cathedral’s blue cupola and bell towers rising above the town skyline
One of the earliest traces of a settlement in this area is the Abbazia di Santo Spirito, a Norman abbey commissioned by Roger I and his wife Adelasia in the late 11th century and consecrated in 1153. In common with other hill towns in the interior, Caltanissetta was surrounded by medieval walls and then expanded towards the monasteries, built around the town from the 15th century on. The centre of a thriving mineral-rich area, it became prosperous after the Unification of Italy thanks to the sulphur and rock salt mines. It was during this period that the look of the town changed with the construction of buildings and public works.
In the heart of town, in Piazza Garibaldi, are the Baroque San Sebastiano and the Cathedral (dedicated to Santa Maria la Nova and San Michele). A brief walk down Corso Umberto I will take you to Sant’Agata – or Chiesa del Collegio – built in 1605 for the Jesuits of Caltanissetta, next to their seminary. The rich decoration inside includes a marble statue of St Ignatius in Glory on the left-hand transept altar, the altarpiece San Francesco Saverio in a side chapel and a canvas of the Martyrdom of Sant’Agata. Not far from the Castello di Pietrarossa, probably a former Arab fortress, is the Museo Archeologico, where the sections are given over to archaeology and modern art.
The Museo Mineralogico, Paleontologico e della Zolfara, established by the local Mineralogy School, S. Mottura, has a fine and extensive collection of minerals and fossils.
⌂ Via di Santo Spirito 57 § 0934-566 596 # 9am–noon & 4–7pm daily
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⌂ Contrada Santo Spirito § 0934-567 062 # 9am–1pm & 3:30–7pm daily ¢ Last Mon of month
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⌂ Viale della Regione 71 § 0934-591 280 # 9am–1pm & 3–7pm Mon–Sat, by request Sun
One of the chief market garden towns in southern Sicily, Licata lies on the coast, at the mouth of the river Salso. It was built in the Greek period and under Roman rule became the port for the shipment of local produce. Evidence of the town’s former wealth can be seen in the many rock-hewn Byzantine churches. After the period of Arab rule, in 1234 Frederick II made it part of the public domain, building fortresses that have disappeared over the centuries since, including Castel Nuovo, which was destroyed by the Turks at the end of the 1561 siege. Licata again became a part of history on 10 July 1943, when Allied troops landed nearby and advanced northwards in their conquest of Italian territory as part of Operation Husky during World War II.
The centre of town life is Piazza Progresso, where there is the Art Deco Municipio or Town Hall, designed in 1935 by Ernesto Basile, which houses some interesting artworks, including a statue of the Madonna and Child and a 15th-century triptych. Also worth visiting is the Museo Archeologico, which has exhibits of prehistoric artifacts from the Palaeolithic to the Bronze Age, archaic Greek and Hellenistic archaeological finds, and a series of medieval statues representing the Christian virtues. Along Corso Vittorio Emanuele, which leads towards the coast, there are some beautiful patrician mansions such as Palazzo Frangipane, which has an 18th-century façade decorated with reliefs. On the Corso Vittorio Emanuele you can also see the Chiesa Matrice di Santa Maria la Nova, which, according to local legend, the Turks tried to burn down in 1553. Founded in the 1500s, it houses a 16th-century crucifix and a 17th-century Flemish nativity scene.
A lively area on the waterfront for eating and shopping is the new Marina di Cala del Sole. A popular mooring with visitors arriving by boat, the Marina is the centre of Licata’s sailing scene, with bars, cafés, a mall and a multiplex cinema, as well as useful tourist facilities.
t The interior of Chiesa Matrice di Santa Maria la Nova, or Black Christ’s Chapel, in Licata
⌂ Via Dante, Badia di Licata § 0922-772 602 # 9am–1pm Tue–Sat (Tue–Thu: also 3–6pm)
Licata is the largest European exporting centre of sulphur.
Experience Agrigento and the Southwest
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DRINK The region along the slopes of Mount Sant’Oliva has long been famous for its unique wines. Be sure to take some time to tour the area’s vast, undulating wineries, where the vines are blessed with warm sun, cool sea breezes and rich, chalky soil. Afterwards, make your way to the wineries’ tasting cellars to sample some of the wines for yourself. Quignones Casa Vinicola ⌂ Contrada Sant’Oliva, S.S. 123-Km 31.900, Licata ∑ quignones.it Feudi del Pisciotto ⌂ Contrada del Pisciotto, Nescemi, 20 km (12 miles) SW of Caltagirone ∑ winerelaisfeudidelpisciotto.com Tenuta dell’Abate ⌂ C.da Giffarrone Abate, Caltanissetta ∑ tenutadellabate.it |
t Palma di Montechiaro’s Baroque church of Santissimo Rosario
Founded in 1637 by Carlo Tomasi, the Prince of Lampedusa, the small coastal town of Palma owes its name to the palm tree on the coat of arms of the De Caro family, relatives of the Tomasi. The town was the property of the Tomasi di Lampedusa family up to the early 19th century, but the family name became really famous only after the publication of the novel Il Gattopardo (The Leopard) in 1958, written by Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa.
Palma was created with a town plan, partly the inspiration of the renowned 17th-century astronomer Giovanni Battista Odierna, and loosely based on that of Jerusalem. The layout revolves around Piazza Provenzani, with the Sicilian Baroque church of Santissimo Rosario and a Benedictine monastery. Further up is the monumental stairway leading to Piazza Santa Rosalia, with the Chiesa Madre, built in the late 1600s with an impressive two-stage façade flanked by twin bell towers. On Sundays and holidays this square is the hub of town life.
As you walk through town you will encounter a number of interesting Baroque buildings. A few miles away, not far from the sea, are the evocative ruins of Castello di Montechiaro, founded, according to tradition, by Federico III Chiaramonte. Although it is now closed for restoration, it is nonetheless worthwhile visiting the site of this 15th-century castle because of the wonderful views of the coastline from its walls. It’s best to head here just before the sun sets for a delightful evening treat.
t The gorgeous Punta Tenna beach, Palma di Montechiaro
The year Montechiaro was added to the name of Palma.
The large agricultural town of Canicattì owes its fame to the production of dessert grapes (a festival in celebration is held each autumn). Known to Arab geographers as al-Qattà, this town became a part of documented Sicilian history in the 14th century, when it was registered as the fief of the Palmieri family from Naro. The late 18th century marked a period of prosperity and growth under the Bonanno family, who commissioned numerous buildings and public works.
In the centre of town are the Castello Bonanno and the Torre dell’Orologio, both rebuilt from ruins in the 1930s. Economic prosperity is confirmed by the many churches – San Diego, rebuilt in the Baroque period with stucco decoration; the Chiesa del Purgatorio, with a statue of the Sacred Heart; the Chiesa del Carmelo, rebuilt in the early 20th century with funds donated by the local sulphur mine workers – and civic works such as the Fountain of Neptune and the Teatro Sociale. The Chiesa Madre is dedicated to San Pancrazio and it was rebuilt in the early 20th century. The current façade is the work of Francesco Basile and among its many interesting sculptures and paintings is the Madonna delle Grazie, sculpted in the 16th century in Byzantine style. Along the main street in the upper town there are three monasteries.
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EAT Bonfissuto Pasticceria This pastry shop has gained a loyal following for its award-winning Christmas Panettone made with Sicilian ingredients like chocolate from Modica, pistachios from Bronte and strawberries from Ribera. ⌂ Viale della Vittoria 72, Canicattì ∑ bonfissuto.com ¡¡¡ |
t Naro’s small Chiaramonte castle sits above the city with views over the hills and sea
Naro lies on a hill in the middle of a water-rich area. Its name derives from ancient Greek and Arab origins – the Greek word for river is naron, and nahr is the Arab translation of the same.
A “resplendent” royal city during the reign of Frederick II Hohenstaufen, it was fortified at different times. Besides the Baroque churches and the remains of monasteries, there are the ruins of the medieval Chiaramonte castle (which is always closed), 14th-century Santa Caterina and the 16th-century Chiesa Madre.
The slopes of wind-blown Mount Prizzi, overlooking the surrounding valleys, have been inhabited since ancient times. There was once a fortified Arab town here, but present-day Prizzi mostly reflects the vast influence of the Middle Ages. The maze of alleys winding up the slopes to the summit of Mount Prizzi (960 m/3,150 ft) is crowned by the ruins of the interesting medieval castle. As you stroll along the narrow streets you will see San Rocco, a large stretch of open space with Santa Maria delle Grazie, and the 18th-century Chiesa Madre, dedicated to St George and bearing a fine statue of the Archangel Michael.
EXPERIENCE Agrigento and the Southwest
Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa’s famous novel Il Gattopardo (The Leopard, was a great success when it was published posthumously in 1958, selling over 100,000 copies. It was later made into a highly acclaimed film by Luchino Visconti. The novel was published thanks to the efforts of novelist Giorgio Bassani, who met Tomasi di Lampedusa in 1954, three years before he died. Most of the novel is set in Palermo, but there are recognizable descriptions of the villages and landscape in this part of Sicily, with which the author had strong bonds.
t Expansive views over Sicilian valleys from the Cammarata hillside
The earliest historical records for this town date from the Norman period, when Roger I donated the fief to Lucia de Cammarata. The Chiesa Madre, San Nicolò di Bari, and the Dominican monastery, whose church was rebuilt in the 1930s, are all worth a visit. But the fascination of Cammarata lies in the overall layout: a labyrinth of alleys and steps – narrow or wide, depending on the natural slope of the rock – offering an unforgettable view of the valleys below this medieval hill town.
Great View
Follow the signposted route from the centre of the town of Cammarata to Monte Cammarata, home to a vast, forested nature reserve with awe-inspiring views.
The town of Racalmuto (the name derives from the Arab rahalmut, or destroyed hamlet) was founded by Federico Chiaramonte, head of the powerful Sicilian Chiaramonte family, over an existing fortification. For centuries the growth of the town went hand in hand with the development of various monastic orders (Carmelite, Franciscan, Minor and Augustines), but the place still bears traces of the typical Arab layout marked by courtyards and alleys.
For centuries Racalmuto thrived on the mining of rock salt and sulphur. The town is also famous as being the birthplace of popular author Leonardo Sciascia. Today it is a renowned agricultural centre, especially known for its dessert grapes.
In the middle of town, in Piazza Umberto I, is the 17th-century Chiesa Madre dell’Annunziata, its interior decorated with lavish stucco, as well as San Giuseppe and the ruins of the 13th-century Chiaramonte castle, which is unfortunately closed to the public but worth a visit regardless. Steps lead to Piazza del Municipio, with the Santa Chiara Convent, now the Town Hall, and the Teatro Regina Margherita, founded in 1879 by Dionisio Sciascia. Further up the hill, at the far end of the steps, is the Sanctuary of Santa Maria del Monte, where an important annual festival is held on 11–14 July. Inside the sanctuary is a statue of the Virgin Mary from 1503. Other churches worth visiting are the Carmelite, which is home to a number of canvases by Italian painter Pietro D’Asaro, the Itria and San Giuliano, which was once the chapel of the Sant’Agostino Convent. A short walk from the centre takes you to Piazza Fontana, with a stone drinking trough, and, further along, Piazza San Francesco, where there is the monastery complex of the Conventual friars, rebuilt in the 1600s.
This settlement was founded during the Mycenaean age and then developed by Spartan colonists who arrived in the 6th century BC and gave it its present name. After being fought over by Agrigento and Carthage, Eraclea became a Roman colony.
Today it is just a stone’s throw from the craggy coast jutting out into the sea. Eraclea Minoa is a combination of a lovely setting and atmospheric ruins. The theatre is well preserved – excavations began in the 1950s – and hosts special performances of Greek theatre, although the overall impression is marred somewhat by the plastic used to protect it in bad weather. All around the theatre are the ruins of the ancient city with its defence system, as well as some necropolises.
Mussomeli’s castle was considered impregnable, partly due to its hard-to-scale limestone rock.
t Mussomeli’s Manfredano Castle
In the 14th century, Manfredi III Chiaramonte founded the town of Mussomeli and the large fortress that still towers over it. The castle, called Castello Manfredano or Chiaramontano in honour of its founder and built over the remains of a Hohenstaufen fortification, was altered in the 15th century by the Castellar family. It has a second walled enclosure in the interior as well as the Sala dei Baroni, with noteworthy portals. From the outer walls there are panoramic views of the valleys and hills of Sicily’s interior.
§ 0934-992 009 # 9:30am–noon Tue-Sun (summer: also 3:30–6pm)
t its interior
In 1989 the film Cinema Paradiso, by the Sicilian director Giuseppe Tornatore, won an Oscar for the best foreign film. It tells the story of the arrival of cinema (the “Nuovo Cinema Paradiso”) in an isolated village in Sicily and the effect it has on the main character, a young boy. Cinema Paradiso was filmed in the streets and squares of Palazzo Adriano and used many of the locals as extras, conferring fame on the village. The weeks the film unit and the people of Palazzo Adriano spent working together are commemorated on a majolica plaque on a corner of Piazza Umberto I.
t Spectacular views over the landscape from the mountain town of Caltabellotta
Visible from most of the hilly area of Sciacca, the rocky crest of Caltabellotta (950 m/3,116 ft) has been inhabited for millennia, as can be seen in the many ancient necropolises and hypogea. The site was fortified at different stages until the arrival of the Arabs, who gave the castle its definitive form, calling it Kal’at–at–al ballut (rock of the oak trees). The county capital, Caltabellotta witnessed the signing of peace between Charles I of Valois and Frederick II of Aragón in 1302, who took over the whole of Sicily. Perched on the ridge above the houses of the Torrevecchia quarter are the ruins of the Norman castle and San Salvatore, while on the other side of the rock is the Chiesa Madre, now being restored, founded by Roger I to celebrate his victory over the Arabs. On the western slope, the Hermitage of San Pellegrino, which consists of a monastery and a chapel, dominates the town.
Almost 700 m (2,296 ft) above sea level, on the ridge of Cozzo Braduscia, is Palazzo Adriano, founded in the mid-15th century by Albanian refugees who had fled from their Turkish conquerors. Central Piazza Umberto I is home to two important churches: the Greek Orthodox Santa Maria Assunta, built in the 16th century and then rebuilt; and Santa Maria del Lume, which is Catholic and was founded in the 18th century. In the middle of the square, bordered by Palazzo Dara, now the Town Hall, and Palazzo Mancuso, there is a lovely octagonal fountain sculpted in 1607. Further up the hill, in the oldest part of Palazzo Adriano, the red dome of the 15th-century San Nicolò overlooks the alleyways of this quarter, which were built around the castle that stood here before the town was founded.
From a distance, Sciacca seems to be overwhelmed by Monte San Calogero, with its thermal waters and steam vapours, which have made the town famous over the centuries. Although the hot springs had been used since prehistoric times, Sciacca was founded as a mere military outpost for Selinunte during the interminable warfare with the city of Agrigento, and was called Thermae Selinuntinae (Selinunte baths) by the Romans. It developed rapidly under Arab rule (Sciacca derives from as-saqah) and many traces of their culture can be seen in the old Rabato and Giudecca-Cadda quarters, with their blind alleys and maze of roofed courtyards. The town was further fortified by the Normans, who quickly recognized its strategic importance in controlling the trade routes.
In the middle of town is Palazzo Steripinto, built in Catalan-Gothic style in 1501 with a rusticated façade. The church of Santa Margherita has a splendid Gothic portal. Do not miss the cloister of the former Convent of San Francesco and the unfinished Baroque façade of the Chiesa del Carmine, with its 14th-century rose window. In central Piazza Don Minzoni stands the Cathedral, dedicated to Santa Maria Maddalena. It was rebuilt in 1656, but retains three Norman apses.
The main attractions in Sciacca, however, are Monte San Calogero and its thermal pools. From the large square at the summit, with the sanctuary dedicated to the evangelist San Calogero, who in the 5th century eliminated pagan rites in the mountain caves, the panorama is breathtaking. The summit is almost 400 m (1,312 ft) high, and on a clear day there is a commanding view from Capo Bianco to Capo Lilibeo, with the limestone ridge of Caltabellotta in the background and Pantelleria island before you. The older spas are on the slopes of the mountain, while new ones have been built closer to the seaside.
Sciacca is also known for its ceramics, mentioned in antiquity by Diodorus Siculus. Local production thrived during the period of Arab rule, as well as in the 16th century. The fine tradition is being maintained today by local craftsmen.
t Walking down the colourful streets of Sciacca, over the port
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Stay Verdura Resort Rocco Forte Inspired by the landscape, the rooms of this stylish golf, tennis, and spa hotel were designed by Olga Polizzi and Flavio Albanese to showcase the sensational Mediterranean views. ⌂ Strada Statale 115 Km 131, Sciacca ∑ roccofortehotels.com ¡¡¡ |
The present-day town of Siculiana was built on the site of an Arab fort destroyed by the Normans in the late 11th century. The new lords – the Chiaramonte family from Agrigento – rebuilt the fortress in the 1300s and it was altered several times afterwards. Despite all the changes, Siculiana has retained some Arab features. In central Piazza Umberto I is the Baroque Chiesa Madre, dedicated to San Leonardo Abate, dominating the square at the top of a flight of steps. In the old centre, divided into large blocks, you can glimpse entrances to courtyards and alleys, which were once part of the covered Arab town.
The tiny island of Lampedusa, caught in the crosshairs of an international catastrophe, is the setting for the 2017 Oscar-nominated documentary Fire at Sea. Directed by Gianfranco Rosi, the film is a moving portrait of Europe’s migrant crisis as seen through the eyes of the desperate refugees making the harrowing Mediterranean crossing, and of the locals of Lampedusa – specifically a young boy suffering from anxiety and a small-town doctor who cares for the sick migrants and counts the dead.
t Boats anchored in the stunning blue waters around Lampedusa
The largest island in the Pelagie (the archipelago that includes Linosa and the small island of Lampione), Lampedusa is 200 km (124 miles) from Sicily and 150 km (93 miles) from Malta. The Greek name Pelaghiè reflects their chief characteristic – isolation in the middle of the sea. Inhabited for a little more than a century – from the time Ferdinand II of Bourbon sent a group of colonists and prisoners there – Lampedusa was soon deforested, which in turn brought about the almost total degradation of the soil and any possibility of cultivating it. Human settlements have also led to a dramatic decrease in local fauna, and the Baia dei Conigli nature reserve was set up to create a safe refuge for sea turtles (Caretta caretta). The island’s main beaches are Cala Maluk, Cala Croce, Baia dei Conigli, Cala Galera and Cala Greca, and diving is one of the many popular sports here. Near the town of Lampedusa (which was almost completely destroyed in 1943) is the Madonna di Lampedusa Sanctuary, where on 22 September the Bourbon takeover is commemorated.
Pantelleria, the largest island off the Sicilian coastline, is closer to the Tunisian coast (Capo Mustafà is 70 km/44 miles away) than to Capo Granitola in Sicily (100 km, 62 miles). Despite its isolation, Pantelleria was colonized by the Phoenicians and then by the Greeks. It was controlled by the Arabs for almost 400 years and it was then conquered and fortified in 1123 by Roger I.
The strong wind that blows here all year round is responsible for a style of building called dammuso, a square, whitewashed peasant’s house with walls almost 2 m (6 ft) thick and tiny windows in order to provide the best insulation.
Water is scarce on the island, so the roofs of these homes are shaped to collect rainwater. The coastal road is 53 km (33 miles) in length; it starts at the town of Pantelleria and goes past the archaeological zone of Mursia (with a series of megalithic structures called sesi in local dialect) and then up to high ground. The main sights here are Punta Fram, Cala dell’Altura and Punta Tre Pietre, where another road takes you to the little port of Scauri. The coast is steep and craggy with some inlets (like the Balata dei Turchi, once a favourite landing place for Saracen pirates, or the lovely Cala Rotonda) up to the Punta Tracino promontory – with a striking rock formation in front of it – which separates the Tramontana and Levante inlets.
The natural arch, Arco dell’Elefante (which looks like an elephant drinking from the sea with his trunk), near Cala Levante is one of the most beautiful viewpoints on the island, particularly in late afternoon or early-evening light. After the village of Gadir and the lighthouse at Punta Spasdillo the road descends to the Cala Cinque Denti inlet or the Bagno dell’Acqua hot springs and then back to its starting point. Life revolves around Piazza Cavour and the new Chiesa Madre, both facing the sea. Renting a bicycle is a very pleasant way of getting to know the island and the local way of life.
Experience Agrigento and the Southwest
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DRINK Tunez Beach Bar With an unbeatable location, this open-air bar overlooking the waters of Cala Croce draws crowds with its sunset aperitivo buffet. ⌂ Contrada Cala Croce, Lampedusa # 8am–midnight Mon–Sat (from 12 noon Sun) |
t Brightly coloured houses line the streets of the quiet town of Linosa
Ancient Aethusa, 40 km (25 miles) from Lampedusa, is a small volcanic island where life centres around the village of Linosa, with its brightly coloured houses. Thanks to the naturally fertile volcanic soil, agriculture thrives on the island. One of the best ways of exploring Linosa is by leaving the road behind and rambling around craters and the fenced-in fields.