t Watching a performance at Akrai’s theatre, at Palazzolo Acreide
t Watching a performance at Akrai’s theatre, at Palazzolo Acreide
Originally named Akrai, this town, a UNESCO World Heritage site, has a history that dates back to ancient times, as well as some important Baroque churches and buildings – the Chiesa Madre di San Nicolò, Palazzo Zocco and the 18th-century Chiesa dell’Annunziata.
However, the most interesting sight to visit here is the peaceful plain with the excavations at Akrai. Located just outside of the town’s centre, this fascinating archaeological site was inhabited in 664 BC, when the settlement was founded by the Syracusans. A small theatre stands by the entrance. The acropolis contains an agora, two latomie (the Intagliata and Intagliatella quarries), the ruins of the Temple of Aphrodite and the so-called Santoni, 12 rock-hewn statues that represents the iconic Anatolian mother goddess Cybele.
⌂ 2 km (1 mile) from Akrai centre § 0931-876 602 # Times vary, call ahead
An ancient Siculan city initially named Xuthia, Lentini was conquered by the Chalcidians in 729 BC and fought against Syracuse with Athens’ support. Defeated and occupied by the Romans, the city went into decline. In the Middle Ages it became an important agricultural centre. The local Museo Archeologico has finds from the ancient city, especially the Siculan and Greek epochs. The digs at Leontinoi, at the edge of town in the Colle Castellaccio area, can be reached via the ancient Porta Siracusana city gate. The various walls testify to the city’s battle-worn history, and there are a number of ancient burial grounds inside the archaeological precinct.
⌂ Via Museo 1 § 095-783 29 62 # 8:30am–7pm Tue–Sat, 8:30am–1:30pm Sun
One of the first Greek colonies in Sicily was founded in 728 BC here at Megara. According to legend, the founders were the followers of Daedalus, who had escaped from Crete. Unfortunately, today the site is surrounded by the oil refineries of Augusta and in such an unattractive environment it is difficult to visit the ruins of the ancient city and gain any sense of atmosphere. The Megara colonists who founded Megara Hyblaea were soon at war with Syracuse and Leontinoi, and a century later founded the city of Selinunte, in western Sicily. You should be able to see the ruins of the Hellenistic walls, the Agora quarter, and the remains of some temples, baths and colonnades. These excavations were led by the eminent archaeologist Paolo Orsi and the École Française of Rome. Information display boards will help you to get orientated.
Augusta was founded on an island by Frederick II as a port protected by a castle. Under the Aragónese the city was constantly at war with Turkish and North African pirates. It was almost totally destroyed by the 1693 earthquake. In the early 1900s the city expanded and became a major petrochemical port, and this drastically changed the landscape. You enter the old town through the Porta Spagnola city gate, built by the viceroy Benavides in 1681, next to which are the ruins of the old walls. In the centre, the Baroque Chiesa delle Anime Sante, the Chiesa Madre (1769) and the Museo della Pizzaforte (Arms Museum, open Saturdays only) are worth a look.
t Exploring the exterior
Tombs, dwellings and temples line the walls of the limestone gorges at the confluence of the Bottiglieria and Anapo rivers. Pantalica, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2015, was the heart of the ancient kingdom of Hybla, which, in its heyday, used Syracuse as its port. The city was conquered by the Greeks when the coastal colonies became powerful in the 8th century BC, and Pantalica became important again during the early Middle Ages, when Arab invasions and constant wars led the locals to seek refuge in its inaccessible canyons. The cave dwellings and hermitages date from this period, as do the ruins of a settlement known as the “Byzantine village”.
t The necropolis of Pantalica
This archaeological site – the largest necropolis in Sicily – covers a large area, but the steep gorges mean there are few roads, and the only practical way of getting around is on foot. About 9 km (5 miles) from Ferla stands the Filiporto Necropolis, with more than 1,000 tombs cut out of the cliffs. Next is the North Necropolis; the last place to park is near the Anaktoron, the megalithic palace of the prince of ancient Hybla dating from the 12th century BC. The road ends 1 km (half a mile) further on. From this point, one path goes down to the Bottiglieria river, where steep walls are filled with rock-cut caves, and another takes you to the so-called “Byzantine village”, the rock-hewn church of San Micidiario and the other necropolises in this area. It is not advisable to try to go to Pantalica from Sortino (the northern slope) as it is an extremely tiring walk regardless of your fitness level.
t The Baroque San Pietro church in the hill town of Modica
Inhabited since the era of the Siculi culture, Modica rebelled against Roman rule in 212 BC and, thanks to its strategic position, became one of the most important towns in medieval and Renaissance Sicily. It is now a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Modica Alta is built on a hill and is connected to the lower town, Modica Bassa, via flights of steps. Alleys and lanes evoke the walled town, which from 844 to 1091 was Mohac, an important Arab city.
A climb up the hill to see the Cathedral, the Duomo di San Giorgio, is worthwhile. It is dedicated to St George and was built by Count Alfonso Henriquez Cabrera on the site of a 13th-century church. The magnificent façade rises upwards with three ranks of columns. In the interior, there is a polittico by Bernardino Niger made of ten 16th-century wooden panels with scenes from the New Testament.
Corso Regina Margherita, the main street in Modica Alta, has many fine 19th-century palazzos. By going up Via Marchesa Tedeschi, you will come across the façade of Santa Maria di Betlem, a 16th-century church that was rebuilt after the 1693 earthquake. Inside is the Cappella del Sacramento, a splendid example of late Gothic-Renaissance architecture.
Interesting buildings along Corso Umberto I include the former Monastero delle Benedettine (a convent for Benedictine nuns now used as a courthouse), the fine 19th-century Teatro Garibaldi, the 18th-century Palazzo Tedeschi, Santa Maria del Soccorso and Palazzo Manenti. Also on Corso Umberto I a flight of Baroque monumental steps, flanked by statues of the Apostles, leads to the entrance of San Pietro. This church was built after the 1693 earthquake on the site of a 14th-century church. The Madonna dell’Ausilio, a Gagini-school statue, stands inside.
Fossils and majolica tiles are featured in the Museo Civico Belgiorno, alongside Greek and Roman ceramics and artifacts recovered from graves in the Modica area, including the archaeological site of Cava d’Ispica.
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⌂ Corso Umberto I, 149 § 346-655 81 05 # 10am–8pm Mon–Sun (to 1pm Sun)
The seeds from carob trees found near Modica are known as "poor man's chocolate" and prized by chefs.
In 1693 a devastating earthquake destroyed the entire southeast corner of Sicily. At the time, Sicily was under the rule of the Spanish Bourbons, and the architecture favoured was flamboyant, bold and extravagant. Many of the towns were rebuilt in this style and, as a result, this beautiful region of dramatic limestone gorges, flower-filled meadows and long sandy beaches is peppered with glorious Baroque towns.
This town was founded in the 14th century by Manfredi Chiaramonte, the Count of Modica, on the steep slopes of a rise and then developed towards the valley. The Chiesa del Salvatore and Matrice Santa Maria la Nova are in the centre, while the Madonna delle Grazie Sanctuary is on the outskirts.
According to Greek historian Thucydides, Gela was founded in 688 BC. In the 6th century BC its inhabitants founded Agrigento. Extending over two slopes – the present-day Acropolis and the Capo Soprano area – the town was revived, after a long period of abandonment, by Frederick II. Today Gela is marred by ugly buildings, industrial plants and a strong anti-Mafia military presence. However, there are the archaeological sites: a long stretch of Greek Fortifications at Capo Soprano built by Timoleon and the sacred precinct and ancient Temple of Athena at the Acropolis Excavations, all good introductions before a visit to the Museo Archeologico Regionale.
§ 0933-913 788 # 9am–1 hr before sunset Mon–Sat
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# 9am–1 hr before sunset ¢ For lunch approx. 1–2pm
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⌂ Corso Vittorio Emanuele § 0933-912 626 # 9am–6:30pm daily ¢ Winter: Sun (except first Sun of month)
Experience Syracuse, Val di Noto and the South
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EAT Accursio A Michelin-starred restaurant set within an old palazzo. ⌂ Via Grimaldi 41, Modica ∑ accursioristorante.it ¡¡¡ Teverna Nicastro An old-fashioned joint in the old town, with tables on the steps outside. ⌂ Via Sant’Antonino 30, Modica ∑ tavernanicastro.com ¡¡¡ |
The fascination of Vizzini lies in the small streets and alleys of the old town, which has preserved its atmosphere and town plan – increasingly rare in Sicily because of modern urban growth. Also worth a look is the fine architecture of the Chiesa Madre di San Gregorio with its Gothic portal, which was taken from the destroyed Palazzo di Città.
t Beautiful majolica-decorated steps pave this narrow street in Vizzini
Founded by Vittoria Colonna in 1603, this agricultural town lies on the plain between the Ippari and Dirillo rivers. In the central Piazza del Popolo are the Teatro Comunale (1877) and Santa Maria delle Grazie, a Baroque church built after the disastrous 1693 earthquake.
The town of Pachino, founded in 1758 by the princes of Giardineli and populated by a few dozen families, has evolved into a large agricultural and wine-producing centre. Despite inroads made by modern architecture, there are still some traces of the original town plan: a series of courtyards and alleys reveals an Arab influence. Pachino is also synonymous with a variety of small red tomato used for sauces and salads, which has become familiar throughout the country (it has even acquired DOC status). Besides the pachini tomatoes, the area – close to seaside resorts and the Vendicari nature reserve with sandy, isolated beaches – is famous for the production of red wine.
EXPERIENCE Syracuse, Val di Noto and the South
Blue Route
Set out from Eloro beach and end at Calamosche, the most famous beach in the reserve.
Green Route
Explore Cittadella Maccari to the tonnara, passing the Trigona and a Byzantine necropolis.
Orange Route
From Vendicari’s main entrance, pass the tonnara, Sveva Tower and Vendicari beach to end at Calamosche.
t While away the hours at one of Marzamemi’s waterside restaurants
At the southern tip of Sicily, on the Capo Passero headland, lies the small town of Portopalo di Capo Passero, a centre for agricultural produce and fishing. Portopalo, together with the nearby town of Marzamemi, has become a popular summer tourist spot. Just off the coast is the small island of Capo Passero, which, because of its strategic position, has always been considered an excellent observation point. Proof is provided by the 17th-century watchtower, which replaced a series of military installations and fortifications, some of which were of ancient origin.
The southernmost point on the beautiful headland is Capo delle Correnti. Opposite the point a lighthouse stands on an island called Isola delle Correnti. Near here – or more precisely, close to Portopalo – Allied troops landed on 10 July 1943 with the aim of establishing a bridgehead on Sicily.
North of Portopalo you can see a tuna fishery (tonnara) and a fish processing plant. In nearby Marzamemi the town also grew up around a tuna fishery and the residence of the noble Villadorata family, who are still the proprietors of the local tonnara.
The waters of the central Mediterranean are still heavily populated by large schools of tuna fish that migrate annually. Enticed towards the tonnara, the fish become trapped in a complicated network of tuna fishing nets. Tuna caught using this traditional method is prized and considered highly superior to tuna caught out on the open sea.
An ancient river carved the Cava d’Ispica out of the rock and the gorge has developed into an open-air monument. The sides of the canyon are perforated with the tombs of a necropolis, places of worship and cave dwellings where religious hermits went through mystical experiences. It was an Egyptian hermit, Sant’Ilarione, who initiated the monasticism in the canyon, which was used only as a burial site in antiquity.
You can access the Cava d’Ispica from SS115 from Ispica to Modica, taking a right-hand turn-off at Bettola del Capitano before following the branch for 5.5 km (3.5 miles) as far as the Cavallo d’Ispica mill. Improved access has also made it possible to visit the Larderia Necropolis, although since the establishment of a new enclosure, it is much more difficult to gain an overall idea of the complex of caves that have made Cava d’Ispica such a world-famous attraction for decades. While the Larderia Necropolis is an impressive network of catacombs (there is also a small museum), not far from the entrance you can visit – on request – the Grotta di San Nicola, a cave with a Byzantine fresco of the Madonna, or the small Byzantine church of San Pancrazio, in a claustrophobically narrow enclosure. Despite the difficult terrain, the unfenced part of the gorge is also well worth visiting. Every step of the way you will be well rewarded for the strenuous climb.
The town lies at the point where the Modica river converges with the valleys of Bartolomeo and Santa Maria la Nova. Scicli, a UNESCO World Heritage site, once played a major role in controlling communications between the coast and the uplands. It was an Arab stronghold and then became a royal city under the Normans. It was totally rebuilt after the 1693 earthquake, and Baroque streets, façades and churches emerged from the devastated town.
For visitors arriving from Modica along the panoramic San Bartolomeo valley, the first stop is San Bartolomeo followed by the new town centre, built on the plain after the old hill town was abandoned. In the centre is the church of Santa Maria la Nova, rebuilt several times and now with Neo-Classical features, and Palazzo Beneventano with its Baroque motifs. The Chiesa Madre in Piazza Italia is worth visiting for its papier-mâché Madonna dei Milici and the Baroque street Via Mormino Penna. Higher up are the ruins of San Matteo, the old cathedral, at the foot of the ruined castle built by the Arabs. The town is also often used as a film set.
t Driving along the beautiful Baroque Palazzo Beneventano in Scicli
Experience Syracuse, Val di Noto and the South
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Stay Albergo Diffuso At this innovative “scattered hotel”, stay in accommodation in 11 different houses around the centre. ⌂ Via Mormino Penna 15, Scicli ∑ sciclialbergodiffuso.it ¡¡¡ |