t Taormina’s ancient Greek Theatre, with Mount Etna looming in the distance
On a bluff above the Ionian Sea, at the foot of Monte Tauro, Taormina is Sicily’s most famous tourist resort. Immersed in luxuriant subtropical vegetation, it was a favourite stop for those on the Grand Tour and the preferred summer residence of aristocrats and bankers, from Wilhelm II of Germany to the Rothschilds. In its time the town has been Siculan, Greek and Roman, but its medieval layout gave it today’s look.
t Taormina’s ancient Greek Theatre, with Mount Etna looming in the distance
EXPERIENCE Mount Etna, the Aeolian Islands and the Northeast
n Double-tap image to read the labels
Set in a spectacular position, Taormina’s Greek Theatre is one of the most famous Sicilian monuments in the world. It was built in the Hellenistic age (3rd century BC) and then almost entirely rebuilt by the Romans in the 2nd century AD, when it was repurposed as an arena for gladiatorial combat. From the cavea (the tiered seating area), carved into the side of the hill, the view takes in Giardini-Naxos and Mount Etna. The upper part of the theatre is surrounded by a double portico. The theatre originally had a diameter of 109 m (358 ft) and a seating capacity of 5,000. Behind the stage area stood a wall with niches and a colonnade. Some of the Corinthian columns are still standing.
Taormina’s grandest building dates from the 15th century, although it was originally an Arab tower. The austere façade, topped with crenellation, is given some elegant flourishes in the form of the mullioned windows and the limestone and black lava decorative motifs. The courtyard stairway, decorated with reliefs of the Birth of Eve and the Original Sin, takes you to the piano nobile, where the Sicilian parliament met in 1411 and where Queen Blanche of Navarre and her retinue lived for a short period. Some of the rooms are open to visitors. The palazzo also houses the local tourist information bureau and a small museum – the Museo Siciliano di Arte e Tradizione Popolari. Next to the palazzo are the Baroque Santa Caterina and the ruins of the Odeion, a small Roman theatre.
Insider Tip
DO greet shopkeepers with a simple buongiorno or buona sera. DON’T bring food or drink into a store. DO ask before handling merchandise. Credit cards are usually accepted, but DO carry cash (contanti) in small denominations and coins (monete) to pay for items under €20.
The main street in Taormina begins at Porta Messina and ends at Porta Catania, a gate crowned by a building that bears the municipal coat of arms. The street is lined with shops, pasticcerie and cafés famous for their glamorous clientele. Halfway down the Corso is Piazza IX Aprile, a panoramic terrace with the churches of Sant’Agostino (now the Municipal Library) and San Giuseppe, as well as the landmark Wünderbar, where you can try the cocktails that Liz Taylor and Richard Burton were so fond of. A short distance away is the Porta di Mezzo gate with the 17th-century Torre dell’Orologio, or clock tower. Dotted above and below Corso Umberto I you will find several stepped alleyways and lanes that pass through quiet, characterful areas. One such alley leads to the Naumachie, a massive Roman brick wall dating back to the Imperial age, with 18 arched niches that once supported a huge cistern.
Dedicated to Duke Colonna di Cesarò, this public garden was bequeathed to Taormina by Florence Trevelyan, an English aristocrat who fell in love with the town. Situated on a cliff with a magnificent view of Etna, the garden is filled with Mediterranean and tropical plants. A characteristic part of the garden is the arabesque-decorated tower, similar to a Chinese pagoda, once used for bird-watching.
This 13th-century masterpiece of Sicilian-Gothic architecture near Porta Catania was the residence of the De Spuches, the Spanish dukes of Santo Stefano di Brifa and princes of Galati, two towns on the Ionian coast near Messina. The influence of Arab masons is clearly seen in the wide black lava frieze, alternating with rhomboidal white Syracusan stone inlay. Note the trilobated arches and the double lancet windows on the façade. The interior and the palace gardens are given over to the Fondazione G. Mazzullo, who set up a permanent exhibition of the works of sculptor Giuseppe Marzullo.
t The interior and exterior
The Cattedrale di San Nicola di Bari was first built in the 13th century but has been altered a number of times – in the 15th, 16th, 18th and 20th centuries – and its austere façade crowned with crenellation has earned it the moniker the “Fortress Cathedral”. The 17th-century portal is decorated with a medallion pattern, and over this are a small rose window and two windows with pointed arches. In The nave you’ll find some gorgeous works of art: The Visitation by Antonio Giuffrè (15th century), a polyptych by Antonello Saliba of the Virgin Mary and Child, and an alabaster statue of the Virgin Mary by the Gagini School. In the middle of Piazza Duomo is a delightful Baroque fountain, and beyond that the Palazzo del Municipio (Town Hall), one storey of which is lined with Baroque windows.
t Cathedral of St Nicolò di Bari
A winding 5-km- (3-mile-) long road northwest of town leads to this charming village perched on a rocky hill behind Taormina. Today little remains of the Norman castle that once stood here, but in antiquity this was a vital bastion against Arab attacks. Exploring the village only takes a few hours, but there are a good few churches, cafés, restaurants, and alleyways. For a more unusual experience, pop into Bar Turrisi and wonder at the vast collection of phallus-themed art that decorates every room from floor to ceiling. A few choice spots around the village also offer one of the most spectacular panoramic views in the world, taking in the Ionian coast, Mount Etna, Giardini-Naxos, the Strait of Messina and the Calabrian coast, not to mention bustling Taormina below – best enjoyed with a glass of wine at sunset.
Hidden Gem
Get away from the glitterati and head to Letojanni, a relaxed seaside resort 7 km (4 miles) north of Taormina, marked by golden sandy beaches and plenty of free beach lidos and private clubs (stabilimenti) for those who want a little extra in the way of facilities.
This small town might well be called Taormina’s beach. It can be reached easily by cable car from Taormina or via the road leading to the Catania–Messina state road N114. An alternative route to Mazzarò is to take the steps which descend from the centre of Taormina, passing through gardens of bougainvillea in bloom.
Taking off from the crystal-clear waters of the bay, you can go on excursions to other sights along the coast: Capo Sant’Andrea, with the Grotta Azzurra, a spectacular marine grotto, can be visited by boat; to the south are the stacks of Capo Taormina and the beach at Villagonia; and to the north are Isola Bella, one of the most exclusive places in the area, and the beaches at the Baia delle Sirene and the Lido di Spisone. Further on is the beach at Mazzeo, a long stretch of sand that reaches as far as Letojanni and continues up to Lido Silemi.
t Small leisure boats anchored in the crystal-clear waters of Mazzarò Bay
Experience Mount Etna, the Aeolian Islands and the Northeast
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