t The sun setting on the perfectly still waters of Marina Corta on Lipari
Consisting of strikingly beautiful volcanic cliffs separated by inlets, sometimes quite deep, the Aeolian Islands (in Italian, Isole Eolie) are unique for their extraordinary rock formations and volcanoes, and for their history. Dominating the islands, especially in the winter, is the sea, with migratory birds nesting on the cliffs and frequent storms, which can reinforce a sense of isolation, even in this age of rapid communications.
t The sun setting on the perfectly still waters of Marina Corta on Lipari
EXPERIENCE Mount Etna, the Aeolian Islands and the Northeast
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The islands attract hordes of visitors every summer who come to bathe and dive, swim and sail, trek and indulge, yet despite the crowds, each island somehow manages to preserve its own individual character.
The best starting point for a visit to the varied Aeolian Islands is Lipari, the largest and most populous of the islands and with excellent boat services. Here you can decide what type of holiday you want – natural history excursions, taking in the alien landscapes of volcanic Stromboli and Vulcano, the exclusive tourist resort at Panarea among chic villas and yachts, or the timeless tranquillity of Alicudi and Filicudi, a far cry from the larger, busier islands.
Picture Perfect
On Salina, after dinner in the tiny village of Pollara, wander over to the piazza, where the beloved film Il Postino is screened nightly – scenes from the movie were shot in the village.
The main Aeolian island is not large – a little less than 10 km (6 miles) long and barely 5 km (3 miles) wide, culminating in Monte Chirica, 602 m (1,974 ft) high. The volcanic activity of the past can be noted here and there in the hot springs and fumaroles. The town of Lipari has two landing places: Sottomonastero for ferries and Marina Lunga for hydrofoils. Inevitably, this is the busiest stretch of the seafront.
The old cathedral was built by the Normans in the 11th century and rebuilt after pirates destroyed the town in 1544. Next door to the cathedral is the Museo Archeologico Eoliano, which takes up part of the old castle, built by the Spanish (who incorporated the ancient towers and walls) in order to put an end to pirate raids. The first rooms in the museum are devoted to prehistoric finds. There is a large section featuring Classical archaeological finds, some discovered under water. Part of the museum is dedicated to volcanic activity, with detailed descriptions of the geological configuration of each island. Three further sights are the Belvedere Quattrocchi viewpoint, the ancient San Calogero thermal baths and Acquacalda beach, which was once used as a harbour for the ships that came to load the local pumice stone. The best way to explore is by scooter or bicycle, both of which can be rented in Lipari.
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⌂ Via Castello 2 # 9am–7:30pm Mon–Fri, 9am–1:30pm Sat & Sun ∑ regione.sicilia.it/beniculturali/museolipari
This island was abandoned for the entire Middle Ages and was colonized again only in the Spanish period. Tourism is a relatively recent arrival, and there are no vehicles. The steps and paths are covered on foot (or donkey) and accommodation can be found in private homes. There is no nightlife, making this an ideal spot for those in search of a peaceful, relaxing break.
Experience Mount Etna, the Aeolian Islands and the Northeast
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Stay Hotel Tritone A luxurious resort-style hotel with a great spa. ⌂ Via Mendolita, Lipari ∑ hoteltritonelipari.it ¡¡¡ La Sirena Chilled-out restaurant with rooms overlooking the beach, with fishing boats alongside. ⌂ Pecorini a Mare, Filicudi ∑ pensionelasirena.it ¡¡¡ La Salina Borgo di Mare Occupies a cluster of restored buildings by Lingua’s lagoon. ⌂ Via Manzoni, Lingua, 12 km (7 miles) SE of Salina ∑ lasalinahotel.com ¡¡¡ |
Experience Beyond the Centre
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Eat Da Filippino Highly regarded restaurant situated in the scenic Town Hall Square. Dishes are based on the catch of the day and complemented by other ingredients local to the island. ⌂ Piazza Manzini, Lipari ¢ Nov–Jan ∑ filippino.it ¡¡¡ Da Adelina Intimate restaurant with a roof terrace overlooking the harbour and a menu of seasonal dishes, such as moscardini — tiny octopus with tomato, capers, fennel and chilli. ⌂ Via Comunale del Mare 28, Panarea ¢ Nov–Feb ∑ adelina-panarea.com ¡¡¡ La Lampara Atmospheric place where you dine under a pergola of climbing vines among huge pots of basil and rosemary. ⌂ Via V. Emanuele, Stromboli ¢ Lunch; Nov–Easter ∑ lalamparastromboli.com ¡¡¡ Kasbah Chic but unpretentious café with a beautiful garden serving an impressive array of pasta, meat and fish dishes. ⌂ Vico Selinunte 45, Lipari # Thu–Tue (Jun–Sep: daily) ¢ Nov–Easter ∑ hoteltritonelipari.it ¡¡¡ |
t Taking a rest at the edge of the Gran Cratere on Vulcano
Close to Lipari is the island of Vulcano, dedicated to Vulcan, the Roman god of fire and metalworking. The only landing place is the Porto di Levante, from which a paved road, the Strada Provinciale 179, leads to the Faro Nuovo (new lighthouse), also known as Faro di Gelso, situated on the Punta dei Porci cape on the southern side of the island. Nearby are also the ruins of the old lighthouse (Faro Vecchio).
Vulcano consists of three old craters. The first, in the south between Monte Aria and Monte Saraceno, has been extinct for centuries; the Gran Cratere, on the other hand, is still active, the last eruption occurring in 1890. Vulcanello, the third crater, is a promontory on the northeastern tip of the island created almost 2,000 years ago by an eruption. The climb up to the middle crater is particularly impressive, and you can reach the top in less than an hour. Once there, it is worthwhile going down the crater to the Piano delle Fumarole to witness the “breath” of the volcano. Bathing and mud baths are available all year round at the spas near Porto di Levante, while hot springs heat the sea around the stack (faraglione).
The second-largest Aeolian island has three main villages: Santa Maria di Salina, Leni and Malfa. Santa Maria overlooks the sea and is not far from the beach; it is connected to the other villages by a reliable minibus service which runs until late in the evening in the summer. Salina is also the site of a nature reserve, created to protect the ancient volcanoes of Monte dei Porri and Fossa delle Felci. The starting point for a visit is the Madonna del Terzito Sanctuary, the object of frequent colourful pilgrimages. Salina, and, in particular, the steep walls of the Pizzo di Corvo, is also a regular nesting ground for colonies of the rare Eleonora’s falcon, which migrate to this spot every year from Madagascar. Among the local products is the highly prized sweet Malvasia wine.
The smallest Aeolian island is surrounded by cliffs and stacks. Visitors land at the small harbour of San Pietro. At Capo Milazzese, in one of the most fascinating spots in the Aeolian Islands, archaeologists have uncovered the ruins of a Neolithic village, founded at Cala Junco. Fascinating finds such as Mycenaean pottery, tools and other items are on display in the local museum. A half-hour walk will take you to the village, starting off from San Pietro and passing through Drautto and the Spiaggia degli Zimmari beach. The island now has luxury tourist facilities.
The active crater of the northeasternmost island in the archipelago has been described by travellers for more than 2,000 years. Its stunning craggy coast (the deep waters are a favourite with swimmers and divers) and famous near-symmetrical volcano are unmistakable. For an excursion to the crater, start off from Piscità; you will first come to the old Vulcanological Observatory and then the top of the crater. The best time to go is around evening, as the eruptions are best seen in the dark. The climb is not always accessible, and the volcano can be dangerous. It is best to go with a guide and to wear heavy shoes (or hiking boots) and suitably hard-wearing clothing. There are also boats offering evening excursions to take visitors close to the Sciara del Fuoco lava field for the unforgettable spectacle of lava flowing into the sea. Boats to the island call either at Scari or Ginostra, but the island has other villages: San Vincenzo, Ficogrande and Piscità.
t View of volcanic Stromboli island from the north coast of Panarea island
Halfway between Salina and Alicudi, this remarkably quiet, undeveloped island has just three villages: Porto, Pecorini a Mare and Val di Chiesa. You can make excursions into the interior or, even better, take a boat trip around the island and visit the Faraglione della Canna basalt stack, Punta del Perciato, Grotta del Bue Marino and Capo Graziano.
Stromboli has been erupting continuously for more than 20,000 years.