Berber Couscous for Spring

Serves 8 to 10

Allow at least 1 full day to cook this. Make sure the steamed couscous is ready for its final steaming.

This fragrant, soulful masterpiece is an ideal project for people who like to play with their food. It is best to tackle the cooking with at least one other friend. The process can be even more relaxing if spread out over two days.

“This is the kind of couscous you will find in small villages in the foothills of the Middle Atlas Mountains, and it is extraordinary,” Paula wrote in 1973. In an early call for seasonal cooking, she continued, “It is served in the spring, when everything that grows is fresh and young and tender, and it has a miraculous clean taste. Everything in it should be as fresh as possible, except of course the smen,” or aged butter (which is optional but another fun experiment). Be sure to use the full amount of black pepper, which tastes floral in the creamy broth.

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, preferably clarified

1 large yellow onion (about 14 ounces | 400 g), thinly sliced

Herb bouquet of 8 sprigs each fresh flat-leaf parsley and cilantro, tied together with kitchen string

1 (3-inch | 7.5-cm) cinnamon stick

1 tablespoon saffron water (here)

1½ teaspoons flaky sea salt

1½ teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

6 cups (1.5 l) water

8 to 10 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs (3 pounds | 1.4 kg total)

2 large tomatoes (about 1 pound | 450 g total), halved and seeded

8 to 10 white pearl onions, peeled

1 pound (450 g) small white turnips or radishes, or a combination, trimmed

¼ cup (40 g) golden raisins

1½ pounds (675 g) small zucchini, trimmed and halved lengthwise

2 cups (340 g) peeled fava beans (from 4 pounds | 1.8 kg unshelled), lima beans, or peas

1 cup (240 ml) heavy cream

1 serrano chile, stemmed, halved, and seeded (optional)

3 tablespoons (45 ml) olive oil

Steamed Couscous (here), steamed and raked 2 or 3 times

2 to 3 tablespoons (30 to 45 g) smen (here) or unsalted butter, preferably clarified

In a 6- to 8-quart (6- to 8-l) enameled cast-iron casserole or Dutch oven, melt the butter over medium heat. Stir in the onion, herb bouquet, cinnamon stick, saffron water, salt, and pepper. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is softened, about 5 minutes. Uncover and cook, stirring a few times, until the onion turns golden, about 5 minutes longer.

Pour in the water and bring to a simmer. Add the chicken thighs, cover, turn down the heat to low, and simmer for 45 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a platter and tent with foil to keep warm. Reserve the broth. (The dish can be prepared up to this point up to 1 day in advance. Cover and refrigerate the chicken and broth separately overnight.)

Using the large holes of a box grater, and with the cut side against the grater, grate the tomato halves and discard the skins.

At least 1 hour before serving, skim off the fat from the surface of the broth and bring the broth to a simmer over medium heat. Add the pearl onions, turnips, and raisins, and when the broth returns to a simmer, turn down the heat to medium-low, cover partially, and simmer until the vegetables are just tender, about 20 minutes. Add the zucchini and continue cooking until the zucchini are just tender, about 10 minutes. Add the grated tomatoes, favas, cream, and the chile, if using. Simmer until all the vegetables are very tender, about 10 minutes longer. Remove from the heat, taste, and adjust the seasoning with salt if needed. Scoop out 1⅓ cups (330 ml) of the broth and set aside for mixing with the couscous. Cover the pot partially to keep the vegetables and the remaining broth warm. Reheat gently until hot just before spooning it over the chicken.

In a 12-inch (30-cm) frying pan, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the chicken thighs, cover partially, and cook, turning once, until well browned, about 8 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a plate.

Meanwhile, return the water to a boil over high heat for the final steaming of the couscous. Line the steamer basket with muslin or cheesecloth. Add the steamed couscous to the basket and steam, uncovered, for 10 minutes.

Transfer the couscous to your widest serving dish. Using a wire whisk, gently coat the couscous grains with the smen. Gradually sprinkle with the reserved 1⅓ cups (330 ml) broth if using hand-rolled couscous or 1 cup (240 ml) if using instant couscous. Rake the grains with your whisk and your fingers. Let stand for 10 minutes to allow the couscous to swell and absorb the broth. Gently mound the couscous and form a well in the center. Nestle the chicken in the well, top with the vegetables, and spoon on a little more broth. Serve the remaining broth on the side, as Paula writes, “for those who like their couscous very moist.”