Hand-Rolled Couscous

Makes about 3½ cups (14½ ounces | 415 g)

Hand-rolled couscous that has not been steamed does not hold well, so plan to steam it right away.

Hand-rolling couscous offers one of life’s rare chances to pretend to be an oyster creating a pearl. Couscous consists of coarsely ground semolina grains that are moistened with water and then coated with several layers of finely ground semolina—like pearls seeded by a grain of sand. The ideal rolling surface is the same as for raking steamed couscous: an unglazed earthenware platter 18 inches (45 cm) in diameter (see headnote here); an earthenware cazuela also works. Purchase the two kinds of semolina at a good Middle Eastern market or online.

Pinch of flaky sea salt

½ cup (120 ml) cool tap water

1 cup (about 160 g) coarse semolina

1 cup (about 160 g) fine semolina

In a small bowl, dissolve the salt in the water. Spread the coarse semolina in a thin layer on an unglazed earthenware platter 18 inches (45 cm) in diameter or other wide plate. Sprinkle the coarse semolina with 1 to 2 tablespoons of the cold salted water and, at the same time, rotate the palm and fingers of one hand in a circular direction over the moistened grains to create tiny spheres.

After several rotations, alternately sprinkle the fine semolina and the salted water over the spheres, adding only a few tablespoons of each at time and continuing to rotate your hand. With each new layer the spheres will begin to form couscous grains.

When all the water and the fine semolina have been incorporated, transfer the couscous to a fine-mesh sieve to shake off any excess flour. For steaming instructions, see here.