Serves 6 to 8 as a main course
It may seem sacrilegious for Paula, a renowned Moroccan expert, to admit, but this Tunisian couscous is her all-time favorite version. And no wonder: fragrant, smoky, and tangy, it hits on all notes. Called kuski ffawwar, it is simpler than traditional Moroccan couscous, as the grains are steamed only once, and a powerful mix of steamed greens and spices are folded into the couscous as it cooks. She learned it on a trip to the Tunisian island of Djerba in 1993, and received guidance on polishing it from Abderrazak Haouari, one of her favorite chefs in Tunisia (or anywhere). Because it does not have the traditional Moroccan broth, it should be made with instant (not hand-rolled) couscous. It is also a bit on the dry side, so it is tastiest served with glasses of cold, tangy buttermilk (which tastes a little like thinned yogurt).
8 ounces (225 g) fresh dill leaves or fennel fronds, or a combination (8 to 10 packed cups)
8 ounces (225 g) fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves (8 to 10 packed cups)
1 handful (½ ounce | 15 g) of celery leaves (½ cup loosely packed)
1 handful (½ ounce | 15 g) of carrot tops (½ cup loosely packed)
4 ounces (115 g) green onions, white and light green parts, sliced crosswise ¼ inch (6 mm) thick
1 small leek, including light green parts (4 ounces | 115 g), sliced crosswise ¼ inch (6 mm) thick
½ cup (120 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
1 cup (140 g) chopped yellow onion (1 medium onion)
3 tablespoons (50 g) tomato paste or Tomato Magic (here)
8 large garlic cloves, peeled (2 cloves crushed, 6 cloves left whole)
2 teaspoons sweet smoked paprika (pimentón de la Vera dulce)
2 teaspoons flaky sea salt
2 teaspoons ground coriander or tabil (see note)
1 teaspoon ground caraway
1½ to 2 teaspoons mild red pepper flakes, preferably Aleppo or Marash
2 cups (480 ml) water
2½ cups (1 pound | 450 g) instant couscous
1 fresh hot green chile, such as serrano, seeded and minced
1 red bell pepper, cut lengthwise into sixths and seeded
Buttermilk, for serving
Roughly chop the dill, parsley, celery leaves, and carrot tops. Fit a large pot with a steamer basket, add water to the pot to just below the base of the basket, and bring the water to a boil over high heat. Add the dill, parsley, celery leaves, carrot tops, green onions, and leek. Cover and steam for 30 minutes. (If all the greens won’t fit under the lid, divide them in half, steam half until wilted, about 3 minutes, and then add the remaining half.) Remove from the heat, uncover, and let cool. Squeeze out the excess moisture. Set aside. Leave the water in the pot.
In a 10- or 12-inch (25- or 30-cm) frying pan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring, until starting to soften, about 3 minutes. Stir in the tomato paste and cook, stirring, until the paste glistens, about 2 minutes. Stir in the crushed garlic, paprika, salt, coriander, caraway, and red pepper flakes, mixing well. Lower the heat to medium-low and cook, stirring, until the mixture is quite fragrant and well blended, about 1 minute. Add 1 cup (240 ml) of the water, cover, and cook for 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, bring the water in the steamer pot back to a boil, adding more water if needed to return it to its original level. Line the steamer basket with muslin or cheesecloth.
Add the couscous to the frying pan and stir until thoroughly coated with the spice mixture. Add the steamed greens mixture and fresh chile and stir until well mixed. Scrape the contents of the frying pan into the steamer basket. Using tongs, tuck in the bell pepper pieces and the whole garlic cloves. Cover and steam until the couscous is tender to the bite, about 30 minutes.
Retrieve the whole garlic cloves and red pepper slices and reserve. Turn out the couscous onto a warmed large serving platter. Using a long fork, break up any lumps. Sprinkle the remaining 1 cup (240 ml) water over the couscous and fluff with the fork just until incorporated. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and red pepper flakes if needed. Tent with foil. Let stand in a warm place for 10 minutes before serving.
Decorate the couscous with the red pepper slices in a star pattern and place the whole peeled garlic cloves in the center on top. Serve with glasses of buttermilk.
NOTE Tabil is a traditional Tunisian spice blend; to make your own, combine 1 tablespoon ground coriander and 1 teaspoon ground caraway with ¼ teaspoon each ground red pepper flakes (such as Marash or Aleppo), curry powder, and garlic powder (optional).