RECIPES

Cooking with Nourishing Fats

When you give yourself permission to cook with nourishing animal fats, a transformation ensues. Eggs, meat, seafood, vegetables, grains and desserts become scrumptious and satisfying. You will gain the reputation as a wonderful cook, and your meals will be gobbled down by even the harshest of critics—your children!

The following fats and fatty foods deserve a place of honor in your kitchen, supplying many important nutrients:

Butter: The queen of fats, with a perfect fatty acid profile, is the best source of myristic acid in the Western diet; it also provides arachidonic acid (which the body turns into feel-good chemicals), glycosphingolipids and vitamins A, D, E and K2. Butter contains valuable minerals as well, including selenium, iodine and magnesium. Use butter in a variety of ways—for light sautéing, in hot oatmeal, slathered on bread, melted over meats, fish and vegetables, or as an ingredient in various desserts.

Cream: Velvety fresh cream or tangy sour cream and crème fraîche provide the same nutrients as butter, but with the added bonus of calcium and phosphorus. The fat-soluble vitamins in the fat portion support assimilation of the minerals in the milk portion of cream. Fresh cream can be whipped as a topping for fruit and other desserts, and fresh or cultured cream is delicious added to soups and sauces.

Lard: A stable, healthy fat we should all be proud to use. You can fry just about anything in lard, and the fat won’t break down. Lard is an unacknowledged source of vitamin D, with much higher levels in pastured lard. Healthier and less expensive than olive oil, lard can be your number one choice for cooking.

Bacon and bacon fat: Lard on steroids, bacon and bacon fat provide the same benefits as lard, enhanced by irresistible bacon flavor and aroma.

Duck and goose fat: We need to use more of these fats in everyday recipes; they are our best sources of vitamin K2 and arachidonic acid.

Tallow: The fat of ruminant animals (cows, sheep, goats), tallow is the most common and the best fat for deep frying; it is stable even at high heat.

Egg yolks: A highly desirable source of fat-soluble vitamins, arachidonic acid as well as protein and important minerals like iron. Eggs from pastured chickens are best. Eat as many as you like; they do not contribute to heart disease.

Cheese: The quintessential soul food, full-fat, aged cheese is a complete food, supplying fat-soluble vitamins—especially vitamin K 2—a range of beneficial fatty acids and CLA, an anticancer substance. Cheese abounds in calcium, phosphorus, magnesium and a range of microminerals. If the cheese is made from raw milk, it will be a source of vitamin C as well. And aged cheese made from raw milk is highly probiotic, containing more beneficial microorganisms, and a wider variety of microorganisms, than yogurt.

Liver: The most nutrient-dense food on the planet, providing not only fat-soluble vitamins but also vitamins B12, B6 and many important minerals, especially iron. Poultry liver has the best balance of vitamins A, D and K2, with duck and goose liver the clear winners for vitamin K2. Cook beef and calves liver in lard to provide vitamin D, to balance high levels of vitamin A in ruminant liver. Liver is delicious made into liverwurst, pâté and scrapple—these are ways of making offal taste good!

Bone marrow: Underappreciated and underused, bone marrow contains 90 percent of calories as fat. Primitive peoples knew how to crack open the femur to extract its rope of marrow, which they relished raw. Today we have much more appetizing ways of preparing marrow.

Gizzards: The “mechanical” stomach of the bird, this little muscle is surprisingly rich in vitamin A, as well as vitamin B12, vitamin B6 and selenium.

Cod liver oil or skate liver oil: Our best dietary source of vitamins A and D, as well as DHA for brain function. Skate liver oil has a better proportion of DHA to the less desirable EPA. Use only products that are processed at low heat and contain their natural vitamins.

 

Breakfast

Cod Liver Oil Shooter

Serves 1

1 teaspoon cod liver oil

juice of 1 organic orange

Mix together in a small glass. Drink quickly to avoid the cod liver oil taste.

Better than Coffee

Serves 2

1 tablespoon molasses

¼ cup cream

¼ teaspoon powdered ginger

¼ teaspoon powdered licorice root

Place all the ingredients in a large mug and add hot water to fill. Stir well and enjoy.

Bacon Delight

Serves 4

1 pound bacon

2 apples, peeled, cored and sliced or 4 slices pineapple

Place the apple or pineapple slices in a 9-inch by 13-inch glass baking dish and lay the bacon slices over them. Bake at 350 degrees for about 20 minutes or until the bacon starts to crisp. Use tongs or a slotted spoon to serve.

Breakfast Smoothie

Serves 1

2 pastured egg yolks

½ cup ripe fruit, such as bananas or strawberries

½ cup cream

½ cup plain unsweetened whole-milk yogurt

2 tablespoons natural sweetener (such as honey, maple syrup or maple sugar)

Blend all the ingredients in a food processor or blender until smooth.

Note: Raw egg whites are very difficult to digest and should not be consumed.

 

Appetizers

Steak Tartare with Bacon Butter

Serves 6–8

Grass-fed beef tends to be lean, but this version of steak tartare is well balanced when eaten on toast spread with delicious bacon butter.

1 pound ground grass-fed beef

1 small onion, finely chopped

2 pastured egg yolks

1 tablespoon capers

1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley

1 teaspoon fish sauce (Red Boat brand recommended)

sea salt and pepper to taste

1 stick butter, softened

2 pieces bacon, cut very small and sautéed until crisp

about 24 thin slices of sourdough baguette, lightly toasted

Place the capers in a strainer, rinse well, and pat dry with paper towels. Place the beef, onion, egg yolks, capers, parsley and fish sauce in a medium bowl and mix well with your hands until combined. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Move to a ramekin or crock, cover and chill well.

In a small bowl, mix softened butter with crispy bacon pieces and place is a ramekin. To serve, smear toasted baguettes with bacon butter and top with a scoop of steak tartare.

Endive Leaves Stuffed with Bleu Cheese

Makes 24

1 cup crumbled bleu cheese

½ cup crème fraîche or sour cream

about ¼ cup fresh pomegranate seeds

24 endive leaves, separated, rinsed and dried

In a food processor, blend the bleu cheese and crème fraîche or sour cream to a smooth paste. Spread a little of the bleu cheese paste into each endive leaf (or use an icing pipette). Sprinkle each with a few pomegranate seeds and serve.

Caviar Canapes

Makes 12

¾ cup crème fraîche or sour cream

12 slices sourdough baguette, lightly toasted

2 ounces caviar

2 tablespoons very finely diced red onion

1 tablespoon very finely diced parsley

Place a dollop (about 1 tablespoon) of crème fraîche or sour cream on each slice of baguette. Top each slice with 1 teaspoon caviar, then ½ teaspoon diced onion and a pinch of parsley. Serve and enjoy.

 

Soups

Cream of Potato Soup with Bacon

Makes about 3 quarts, serving 6–12

½ pound bacon, cut into small pieces

1 medium onion, chopped

2 leeks, sliced open, washed and chopped into ½-inch pieces

½ cup dry white wine or vermouth

3 baking potatoes, peeled and cut into ½-inch cubes

2 quarts chicken stock or combination stock and water

bouquet garni (parsley sprigs, thyme springs and 1 bay leaf, tied together)

1 cup crème fraîche

salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

2 tablespoons finely chopped chives

In a heavy-bottomed pot, sauté the bacon pieces until crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside. In the remaining bacon fat, sauté the onion and leeks over low heat, stirring frequently, until soft. Add the wine or vermouth and bring to a boil. Add the potatoes, stock and bouquet garni and bring to a simmer. When the potatoes are soft, remove the bouquet garni and blend the soup with a handheld blender until smooth. Stir in the crème fraîche and season with sea salt and freshly ground pepper.

Serve in heated bowls and garnish with the reserved bacon pieces and chives.

 

Sauces

Brown Butter Tarragon Sauce

Makes ½ cup, about 4 servings

This versatile sauce is simple to make and can be used on meat, fish, vegetables or pasta.

1 stick unsalted butter, cut into 8 slices

2 tablespoons tarragon leaves, finely chopped

1 tablespoon chopped shallot

1 clove garlic, peeled and minced (optional)

Heat a heavy skillet on medium-high. When the skillet is hot, add the butter. Once it foams, add the tarragon leaves and turn the heat down to medium. Cook over medium heat for 10–20 minutes, stirring frequently, until the butter turns light brown—be careful not to let it burn. Stir in the chopped shallot and optional garlic and sauté for 1 minute, stirring constantly. Pour browned butter over vegetables, fish, meat or pasta.

Béarnaise Sauce

Makes about 1½ cups

Béarnaise sauce provides a great package of fat-soluble vitamins, and is fabulous served over rare beef.

2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

2 tablespoons dry white wine or vermouth

2 tablespoons finely chopped shallot or the white part of green onion

1 tablespoon finely chopped tarragon leaves, or 1 teaspoon dried tarragon

4 pastured egg yolks

1½ sticks unsalted butter, softened

About 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

sea salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Better than Mayo

Makes 1½ cups

This is so much easier to make than mayonnaise—and more nutritious as well.

½ cup crème fraîche

2 pastured egg yolks

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

sea salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Place all the ingredients into a bowl and whisk together well until thoroughly combined. Use immediately or transfer to a jar and refrigerate.

Giblet Gravy

Makes 2–4 cups

Reserve the drippings from a chicken or turkey, cooked in a stainless steel or enamel pan

2–4 cups homemade chicken or turkey broth

gizzard from the chicken or turkey, cleaned and cut into pieces

2–4 tablespoons unbleached white flour

sea salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

While the chicken or turkey is cooking, use a small saucepan to simmer the gizzard in the broth. When the gizzard is tender, chop the pieces very fine and set aside.

After your turkey or chicken has finished cooking, remove it (and the rack it was on) from the pan and keep warm in a warm oven. Place the pan over medium heat. Add the flour and stir around until it has completely combined with the poultry fat. (In principle, use 2 tablespoons of flour for a chicken and 4 tablespoons for a turkey, but if there is a lot of fat, use more.) Stir until the fat-flour mixture has lightly browned, being careful not to let it burn. Add the stock slowly, while whisking, and bring to a simmer, whisking constantly to remove any lumps. If the gravy is too thick, thin with a little water; if the gravy is too thin, reduce by gentle boiling. Stir in the reserved chopped gizzard and season to taste with sea salt and freshly ground pepper.

 

Vegetables

Caesar Salad

Serves 4

For the salad

about ½ cup lard or bacon fat

4 slices sourdough bread, crusts removed and cut into cubes

2 heads romaine lettuce, outer leaves removed, washed and dried

4 ounces Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, grated or shaved

For the dressing

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 teaspoon sea salt

2 large or 3 medium pastured egg yolks

1½ tablespoons Dijon mustard

4 anchovy filets, cut into ½-inch pieces

juice of 1 small lemon, strained

1 teaspoon fish sauce (preferably Red Boat brand)

3 dashes hot sauce

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

⅓–½ cup extra virgin olive oil

½ cup sour cream or crème fraîche (optional)

Melt the bacon fat or lard in a skillet, and sauté the bread cubes until browned. Cut or tear the lettuce into 1-inch pieces. Set the croutons and lettuce aside.

In a large wooden bowl, using a wooden spoon, mash the minced garlic cloves to a fine paste with the salt. Stir in the egg yolks and Dijon mustard. Add the anchovies, and continue to grind into a thick paste. Add the lemon juice, fish sauce, hot sauce and vinegar and season with the pepper. Slowly whisk in the olive oil and optional sour cream or crème fraîche until the dressing is creamy.

Add the lettuce to the bowl, and toss to coat the leaves thoroughly. Divide on 4 plates, sprinkle with the Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese and croutons and enjoy.

Buttered Ginger Carrots

Serves 4

1 pound carrots, peeled and sliced at about 1 inch, on the diagonal

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 tablespoons honey

¼ teaspoon powdered ginger

filtered water

Place the carrots, butter, honey and ginger in a medium saucepan and top with filtered water until just covered. Bring to a boil, uncovered, and continue boiling to let the liquid reduce. Use a spoon to skim off any foam that may rise to the surface. As the liquid gets thick, stir constantly to prevent sticking. Carrots will become coated with the butter-honey mixture. Serve warm.

Twice Fried Potatoes

Serves 8

4 large baking potatoes

1 quart plus 2 tablespoons tallow

sea salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

For best results, use a 1-liter deep fryer.

Peel the potatoes, leaving some skin on the ends. Cut into ⅓-inch slices. Then cut the slices into ⅓-inch sticks. Soak the potatoes in a large bowl of cold water for about 1 hour. Drain in a colander and pat dry with a paper towel to remove excess water.

Heat the tallow in the fryer to 325 degrees. In 4 batches, cook the potatoes in the tallow until light brown, about 5–7 minutes for each batch. Remove the potatoes, shaking off the excess tallow, and allow them to drain on a wire rack. Raise the temperature of the tallow to 350 degrees and cook the potatoes again in 4 batches, about 2 minutes each batch, until golden brown. Shake off the tallow and place the potatoes on paper towels to soak up the excess. Place the potatoes in a bowl and toss with sea salt and freshly ground pepper.

Mashed Potatoes

Serves 6

6 large russet potatoes

¼ cup melted butter or lard

1 stick butter, softened

½ cup sour cream or crème fraîche

whole milk, as necessary

sea salt to taste

Cut a small piece off each end of the potatoes and brush with melted butter or lard. Place in a glass baking dish and bake at 350 degrees for 1–1 ½ hours, or until tender when poked with a fork.

Place the stick of butter in a medium bowl. Cut the potatoes in half lengthwise and scoop out the potato flesh into the bowl. (Reserve the skins for Potato Skins; see recipe below.) Add the sour cream or crème fraîche and mash together. Use a handheld mixer to mix until very smooth. If the mixture is too thick, add a little whole milk to thin. Blend in the sea salt to taste and serve warm.

 

Seafood

Wild Salmon with Cream Sauce

Serves 4

1½ pounds wild salmon filet, skin on, cut into 4 pieces

2 cups fish stock

½ cup white wine

1 cup sour cream or crème fraîche

1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon leaves

sea salt to taste

Place the salmon, skin side down, in a greased glass baking dish—the salmon should fill most of the dish. In a medium bowl, combine the stock and white wine and pour over the salmon—the salmon should be fully covered with the liquid. Bake at 300 degrees for about ½ hour, or until the salmon is flaky, but still slightly underdone in the center. Remove to paper towels and pat dry. Keep warm in a warm oven or warming drawer while making the sauce.

Pour the stock and wine into a large cast iron skillet. Add the sour cream or crème fraîche and boil vigorously until the sauce reduces and thickens. When the sauce coats a wooden spoon, stir in the tarragon leaves and season with sea salt to taste.

To serve, place the salmon pieces into 4 heated bowls and pour the sauce over the fish.

South-of-the-Border Fish

Serves 4

4 ears fresh corn, husks removed

⅓–½ cup lard

¼ cup chili powder

1 teaspoon sea salt

about 1 ⅓ pounds fresh fish filets, skin on, in 4 pieces

1 jalapeño chile, seeded and diced

Cut the corn off the cob into a medium bowl and set aside. Over medium heat, melt the lard in a cast iron skillet.

Meanwhile, mix the chili powder and sea salt in a shallow dish. Pat the fish very dry with paper towels and dredge in the spice mix. (Set aside any remaining spice mixture.) Sauté the fish on both sides in the hot lard, several minutes on each side, until the fish is cooked through. Transfer to a heated platter and keep warm.

Add the jalapeño chile to the skillet and cook for a few minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the corn and any remaining chili powder–salt mixture. Cook, stirring, for a few minutes until the corn is tender. Serve the corn alongside the cooked fish.

 

Meats

Italian Meat Loaf

Serves 6–8

1½ cups breadcrumbs, preferably sourdough

½ cup powdered Parmesan cheese

about 1 cup cream

1 pound ground beef

1 pound ground pork

2 whole pastured eggs

1 onion, peeled and minced

2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley

2 teaspoons Italian seasonings

2 teaspoons fish sauce (preferably Red Boat brand)

1 teaspoon pepper

1 teaspoon salt

1 7-ounce jar tomato paste

about ½ cup water

Mix the breadcrumbs and Parmesan cheese together in a small bowl, and add enough cream to completely moisten the mixture, but not so much that it is runny.

Place all the remaining ingredients except the tomato paste in a large bowl, add the breadcrumb mixture, and combine well by hand. Form into a loaf and set into a glass baking dish. Cover the loaf with the tomato paste and fill the bottom of the dish with the water. Bake at 350 degrees for about 1¼ hours, or until cooked through. Leftovers will keep for several days in the refrigerator.

Tostadas

Serves 6

6 corn or flour tortillas, fried until crisp in lard

3 cups pulled pork (recipe above)

3 cups black beans, cooked

6 cups finely sliced Romaine lettuce hearts

3 tomatoes, diced

1 red onion, minced

2 ripe avocados, peeled and diced

3 cups grated Jack cheese

1 cup sour cream

hot sauce

Divide the fried tortillas among 6 heated plates. Top each with pulled pork, warm black beans, Romaine lettuce, tomatoes, onion, avocado, and Jack cheese. Serve with sour cream, and hot sauce as a garnish.

 

Organ Meats

Chicken Liver and Heart Pâté

Makes about 2 cups

1 pound chicken livers and hearts

3 tablespoons butter or lard

1 onion, peeled and chopped

½ cup brandy

2 cups chicken stock

1 clove garlic, peeled and mashed

1 teaspoon powdered mustard

1 teaspoon dried dill

½ teaspoon powdered rosemary

½ cup butter, softened

sea salt to taste

Trim off any membranes from the livers, and pat hearts and livers dry with paper towels. Melt 3 tablespoons butter or lard in a large cast iron skillet and sauté the chopped onion over medium heat until golden. Add the livers and hearts, raise heat and sauté until they are browned on all sides. Add the brandy to the skillet and bring to a boil. Add the chicken stock, garlic, mustard, dill and rosemary. Boil gently, stirring occasionally, until the liquid is reduced about half, or about 10–15 minutes.

Allow to cool and transfer to a food processor. Add the ½ cup softened butter and process until very smooth. Add additional chicken stock if the pâté is too thick. Add sea salt to taste. Transfer to a 3-cup ramekin or 3 smaller ramekins. Cover well until served. Can be refrigerated or frozen.

Breaded Marrow Bones

Serves 4

4 4-inch marrow bones, split lengthwise

2 cups breadcrumbs (sourdough if available)

zest of 1 organic lemon

¼ cup parsley, finely chopped

sea salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

¼ cup melted butter

Place the marrow bones in a glass baking dish. In a small bowl, mix the breadcrumbs with the lemon zest, parsley and salt and pepper. Place about ¼ cup of this mixture on each marrow bone and then drizzle the butter over the breadcrumbs. Bake at 350 degrees for about 10 minutes. Place the dish under a broiler for an additional 5 minutes, or until the breadcrumbs are nicely browned. Serve two split bones per plate with small spoons.

Pork and Liver Terrine

Serves 6–8

2 tablespoons butter

1 small onion, peeled and finely chopped

½ pound liver (pork or chicken)

1 pound fatty ground pork

½ pound ground beef or veal

1 clove garlic, peeled and finely chopped

1 teaspoon dried thyme

2 teaspoons sea salt

1 teaspoon black pepper

½ teaspoon nutmeg

⅛ teaspoon allspice

¼ cup cognac or brandy

2 pastured eggs

¼ cup heavy cream

½ cup pistachio nuts

about 12 strips of bacon

sourdough baguette and pickles for serving (optional)

You will need a brick wrapped in aluminum foil or a bacon press (with its wooden handle wrapped in aluminum foil so it doesn’t catch fire) to weight the terrine down as it bakes.

Melt the butter in a cast iron skillet and sauté the onion over medium heat until soft. Transfer the onion to a bowl, set aside and let cool.

Pulse the liver in a food processor until smooth. In a large bowl, mix the liver, ground pork, ground beef or veal, cooked onion, garlic, thyme, salt, pepper, nutmeg and allspice. In a separate bowl, whisk together the brandy, eggs and heavy cream. Pour over the meat and stir until completely combined. Stir in the pistachio nuts.

Lay the bacon strips across the bottom of a 5-inch by 9-inch loaf pan, so they completely cover the bottom of the pan without overlapping. Bring the bacon strips up both sides of the pan and let 1–2 inches of bacon overhang the edge. Fill the pan with the meat mixture to create the terrine, taking care not to move the bacon lining the pan. Cover the top of the terrine lengthwise with three strips of bacon then fold the overhang of bacon over the top. Cover the terrine with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 8 hours.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Fill a baking dish with 2 inches hot water, place in the oven and let the water come to a simmer. Remove the terrine from the refrigerator and place a layer of greased parchment paper on top of the bacon and then place the weight on top of the loaf. Place in the simmering hot water bath and bake 1½ hours. Remove from the oven and let cool. Refrigerate for 24 hours with the weight still on top.

To serve, set the loaf pan in a new hot water bath and loosen the sides gently with a knife. Invert terrine onto a platter. Serve with slices of sourdough baguette and pickled gherkins. (Adapted from marksdailyapple.com.)

 

Desserts

Vanilla Ice Cream

Makes 1 quart

6 pastured egg yolks

⅓–½ cup maple sugar

½ teaspoon vanilla powder or vanilla extract

3 cups cream

In a medium bowl, beat the egg yolks with maple sugar and vanilla powder for about 5 minutes. Beat in the cream. Pour into a home ice cream maker and process according to directions. Store, covered, in the freezer in a shallow glass container. Remove from the freezer and let thaw about 5 minutes before serving.

Cream Cheese Topping

Makes 1½ cups

A smooth creamy topping perfect for fruit, pies, tarts, pastries or almond spice cookies.

8 ounces cream cheese, softened

⅓ cup honey

¼ cup (½ stick) unsalted butter, softened

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Blend all the ingredients in a blender. Use immediately with your favorite fruit, snack or dessert.

Vanilla Nut Custard

Serves 6

2 cups pecans

1 teaspoon sea salt

4 tablespoons butter

¾ cup maple sugar

1¼ cups heavy cream

1¼ cups whole milk

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

6 large pastured egg yolks