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It was on the windswept shores of what is now Alki Beach that Seattle’s pioneers first built a community. The area’s early settlers, led by Arthur Denny, came from the state of Illinois, in the American Midwest, seeking a better life. After one blustery winter on Alki (pronounced Al-kai, rhymes with ‘pie’), however, most of the Denny party moved away from the beach’s winds to the shelter and deeper anchorage of Elliott Bay.
That exodus seems surprising given Alki’s current popularity. In summer, the sandy beach is a mass of tanned bodies, and year-round, the footpath and its adjacent bike-and-skating path are crowded with promenading, strutting, jogging people.
Lottie’s Café in Columbia City.
Tim Thompson/Apa Publications
West Seattle
Southwest of Downtown, West Seattle is located on a peninsula separated from the mainland by the Duwamish River and reached via the massive West Seattle Bridge, which arches over busy Harbor Island. The manmade island, located at the river’s mouth where it empties into Elliott Bay, operates as a storage depot for much of the equipment that serves the busy Port of Seattle. It is home to shipyards and containership loading facilities, and a steady stream of trucks hauling containers.
Alki Point Lighthouse on Puget Sound, with Mount Rainer behind.
Dreamstime
There is something about crossing the bridge and arriving in West Seattle that feels like an escape from the city. With its relaxed, seaside kind of a vibe, life seems a little slower than in other parts of the city.
Another fun way to reach West Seattle is by the King County Water Taxi (from Pier 55 on the Downtown waterfront to Seacrest Marina), which takes about 12 minutes. From the marina it’s a short walk to Alki Beach, or you can take the free shuttle van, which operates between the Admiral District, Alki Point, and the Junction.
The main commercial district of West Seattle is better known as The Junction 1 [map]. It’s centered around California Avenue SW, and SW Alaska Street. There’s a mix of boutiques, secondhand stores, and restaurants and bars. Easy Street Records (4559 California Avenue SW; tel: 206-938 3279; www.easystreetonline.com; daily 9am–9pm) is one of the anchors and important in the local music scene, showcasing live artists and staging CD release parties.
The Junction’s murals are remarkable. More than half a dozen wall-sized paintings decorate the retail and commercial buildings, most depicting the area as it was over a century ago. The best of these is on the wall at California and Edmunds, and looks as if one could walk right into a 19th-century street scene.
A King County Water Taxi departing for a trip across Elliott Bay.
iStockphoto
North of The Junction on California is the rolling Admiral District, named for Admiral Way, which climbs the hill from the West Seattle Bridge on the east and slides down to Alki Beach on the west. The district is home to the last of West Seattle’s movie theaters, the Admiral Theatre, which screens second-run films at discount prices. A lovely old brick public library is here with some restaurants, coffeehouses, and West Seattle High School.
This part of Seattle is on two hills, Gatewood and Genesee, which give it plenty of view-enhanced property. Homes on the west sides of both hills overlook Puget Sound and the Olympic Mountains, while those on the east have views over Downtown and Harbor Island. At the top of Genesee Hill are scenic outlooks including Hamilton Viewpoint, at the north end of California Avenue, and Belvedere Viewpoint, which is on Admiral Way.
The lighthouse on Alki.
iStockphoto
The closest thing the city has to a Southern California outdoor scene is Alki Beach 2 [map], which, for many years, was a summer place where teenagers brought their cars. Anti-cruising laws were enacted to restrict drivers to a single pass along the beach’s Alki Avenue every four hours, cutting down considerably the noise and traffic nuisance that so irked local residents – many of them occupants of the condo complexes across from the beach.
In summer, though, Alki still attracts a good crowd of shiny cars, bronzed bodies in bikinis, and teenagers out to see and be seen. Beach volleyball courts are usually bouncing with players and lined with spectators.
View across Elliott Bay from Alki Beach.
iStockphoto
In the fall, winter, and spring, Alki is a wonderful place for a beach stroll under swirling clouds and squawking seagulls. If the wind and rain that drove the Denny party across the bay do get to be too much, the area also offers plenty of shelter and places to eat, ranging from bakeries and delis to a chain seafood restaurant with an excellent view of the Downtown skyline.
The oldest landmark here is a concrete column marking the beach as the ‘Birthplace of Seattle.’ It was presented to the city in 1905 by Arthur Denny’s daughter and stands now at 63rd Avenue SW and Alki Avenue. In 1926, when the column was moved from its original location on the other side of the street, a hunk of the Plymouth Rock, the Massachusetts boulder that the Pilgrims steered toward in 1620, was embedded in its base.
Alki Point Lighthouse
Address: 3201 Alki Avenue SW
Tel: 206-841 3519
Opening Hrs: Jun–Aug Sat–Sun 1pm–4pm; guided tours by appointment
Entrance Fee: free
Transportation: bus 37 or 53
At the southern end of the beach – just before it becomes residential – is the Alki Point Lighthouse 3 [map], established in 1881. The present lighthouse, standing on a small reservation behind apartments and condominiums, dates from 1913.
Schmitz Park.
Alamy
Schmitz Park 4 [map]
Address: 5551 SW Admiral Way
Tel: 206-684 4075
Opening Hrs: daily 4am–11pm
Entrance Fee: free
Transportation: bus 56 or 57
Just east of Alki is this 53-acre (21-hectare) nature preserve with narrow trails through thick woods, but no picnic areas or playgrounds. The old-growth trees provide wonderful canopy for birds and quiet contemplation. Just off 35th Avenue SW, the hillside West Seattle Municipal Golf Course offers views of downtown Seattle, Elliott Bay, and the Duwamish waterway. The 18-hole, par-72 golf course was laid out here in 1940.
Continue along the waterfront, which becomes Beach Drive, passing beachside homes both extravagant and funky, as well as apartment buildings and open spaces such as Emma Schmitz Memorial Park. Beach Drive culminates in the lower part of Lincoln Park, at the foot of Gatewood Hill. Alki Beach Park may be the most visible of this area’s city parks, but it is certainly not the only one.
Address: 8011 Fauntleroy Way SW
Tel: 206-684 4075
Opening Hrs: daily 4am–11.30pm
Entrance Fee: free
Transportation: bus 54
Lincoln Park 5 [map] has miles of wooded and waterfront trails within its 135 acres (55 hectares). It’s hard to believe you’re in a large metropolitan area when you take in the uninterrupted views over Puget Sound, toward the Olympic Mountains. The park really is one of Seattle’s gems. Colman Pool is a heated 164ft (50-meter) Olympic-size outdoor pool open only in summer. Filled partly with chlorinated freshwater and part saltwater, Colman Pool is accessible only on foot; the roads through the park are restricted to park vehicles. At the south end of Lincoln Park is the Fauntleroy Ferry Dock, where boats depart for Vashon Island and Southworth. Either destination makes a pleasant day trip. Vashon, just 20 minutes from the dock, is a charming rural area far from the rush of city life. Many residents farm as a hobby and make the daily commute to Seattle or Tacoma via ferry; a few have found work on the island itself, in bucolic pursuits like orchid growing.
One of the city’s few parks to offer overnight facilities, Camp Long (just off 35th Avenue SW at Dawson; tel: 206-684 7435) is 68 acres (27 hectares) of wilderness. Open to organized groups and the public for camping and wilderness-skills programs, Camp Long is a popular site for weddings and also features Schurman Rock (Tue–Sat 10am–6pm), a decent rock wall for climbing instruction and practice.
Colman Pool was originally a saltwater pool with mud sides. The existing structure was built in 1941, thanks to a donation from local businesman Kenneth Colman.
Seattle Municipal Archives
Harbor Island
Located between Downtown and West Seattle, and beneath the West Seattle Bridge, Harbor Island 6 [map] is home to the city’s shipyards and loading facilities for freighters. It is a landfill of more than 25 million cubic yards (19 million cubic meters), all of it dredged up and reclaimed from the bottom of the Duwamish River.
When it was completed in 1912, Harbor Island was the largest man-made island in the world. Shortly after the island was created, the meandering Duwamish was straightened, allowing much greater space along its banks for industrial development. South from Elliott Bay, past busy Harbor Island and through Seattle’s industrial corridor, the river passes salvage ships, commercial shipping lanes, Boeing Field, and the town of Tukwila.
South Seattle
Overlooked for many years, South Seattle has been discovered by ‘urban pioneers’ and is now a destination itself. Three neighborhoods in particular – Beacon Hill, Columbia City, and Georgetown – are areas to consider visiting. A light-rail link from Downtown to Sea-Tac Airport, with stations in Beacon Hill, Mount Baker, Columbia City, and Rainier Beach, provides easy access to South Seattle.
Beacon Hill
On the east side of Interstate 5 is Beacon Hill 7 [map], an affordable residential area with a diverse ethnic mix. The view from Beacon Hill itself is fantastic, stretching out over Downtown all the way down to Seattle’s waterfront. The city-owned Jefferson Park Golf Course, where pro Fred Couples perfected his swing, is located here. For many years Beacon Hill was home to success-story Amazon, which was headquartered in a tall Art Deco building – a towering landmark near the top of the hill that was part of an old hospital – until it relocated to South Lake Union neighborhood in 2010.
Where
Seattle’s White Center was named for George W.H. White, a partner in the railroad that served this part of the city when it was a rugged logging district. Government housing projects went up after World War II, and later, taverns were built just outside the city limits, earning White Center the nickname Rat City in the 1960s. Nowadays, it is one of the few places left with affordable real estate for first-time homebuyers.
Another neighborhood that has been gentrified in recent years is Columbia City 8 [map]. The area now has a small cinema, a good bakery, several popular restaurants and watering holes – even a wine bar. Older houses are sporting fresh coats of paint and attention is being paid to detail, a sure sign that real-estate values are buoyant. The gorgeous weekly summer farmers’ market is the main reason to visit.
A Farmers’ Market for the Whole Family
Seattle is a city of farmers’ markets, there’s no doubt, starting with Pike Place – the crown jewel. While the Ballard and University District markets get a whole lot of attention, it’s the Columbia City Farmers’ Market (www.seattlefarmersmarkets.org) that’s got the city charmed. It was voted the best farmers’ market in town by Seattle Weekly in 2012. More than 40 vendors set up in a long line next to an expansive, rolling lawn in front of the neighborhood library – particularly popular with children, who happily frolic and shriek until the sun starts to set. Live music and cooking demonstrations are on offer, as well as prepared food, including Indian curries and Mexican tacos. Check the website for the market schedule, but generally it’s held Wednesdays from 3pm to 7pm, May through October.
To the northwest is Georgetown 9 [map], which has seen a surge in counter-cultural types. The Georgetown neighborhood website, maintained by the community council, labels it ‘Seattle’s Feisty, Intensely Creative Neighborhood.’ With some of the city’s more affordable real estate, the area has sprouted artists’ studios, parks, and museums, as well as the requisite coffeehouses and a microbrewery.
Tip
The ethnic diversity of South Seattle provides an interesting mix of shopping and eating opportunities.
Lake Washington Shores
Lake Washington is lined by various neighborhoods. East of Beacon Hill is the comfortable neighborhood of Mount Baker, which has fine old homes, a few interesting shops, and a diverse population. Wind down the hill through Mount Baker and you’re on the shores of Lake Washington. At Mount Baker Beach ) [map], a large, blue boathouse holds rowing shells, which are taken out daily by rowers young and old.
Along the west side of the lake runs Lake Washington Boulevard, which begins at the University of Washington in North Seattle and continues all the way down to Seward Park. The road gives eastward views of the Cascade Range and meanders past the string of grassy Lake Washington beachfront parks. An adjacent cycle path follows the road for miles.
On most Sundays from May through September the road is closed to automobile traffic in observance of Bicycle Sunday (tel: 206-684 4075). It’s a beautiful ride any time, but the event makes it even more appealing.
A local Starbucks in Columbia City.
Tim Thompson/Apa Publications
The stretch of lake shoreline from just south of the bridge – which carries Interstate 90 to Andrews Bay – is hydroplane race heaven during the annual Seafair celebration, which was first staged in 1950. The event draws thousands of spectators despite the noise of engines on 150mph (240kmh) boats. Seafair’s official viewing beach is Stanley Sayres Memorial Park ! [map], where the hydro pits are, but many fans watch from homes along the lake, and hundreds pay a per-foot charge to moor their boats along the challenging course.
The Lake Washington parks culminate in Seward Park @ [map], 300 acres (121 hectares) of greenery, trails, and waterfront. Bald eagles have bred here, and there’s plenty of other wildlife, too. The park has an art studio, a playground, an outdoor amphitheater, and a short lakeside trail for cyclists and runners.
A speedboat on Lake Washington.
Bigstock
Rainier Valley
In Rainier Valley, named for the views of Mount Rainier that it enjoys, the old Sicks Stadium once stood, home successively to baseball teams the Seattle Rainiers and the Seattle Pilots. Neighborhoods near the Duwamish River as it winds south from Elliott Bay include Holly Park, Highland Park, South Park, Beverly Park and, farther southwest, Burien. To the east on the edge of the lake is Rainier Beach £ [map].
Limited real estate in the city’s International District lured Asian immigrants to search out new areas for development, including the area south of Safeco Field. This neighborhood now has a substantial Asian population, mostly Vietnamese, and some good restaurants. Many more Asian restaurants line Pacific Highway South toward Sea-Tac International Airport.
West and South Seattle: Restaurants, Bars and Cafes
Price Categories
Prices for a three-course dinner per person with half a bottle of wine:
$ = under $20
$$ = $20–45
$$$ = $45–60
$$$$ = over $60
American
Columbia City Ale House
4914 Rainier Avenue S. Tel: 206-723 5123. www.seattlealehouses.com Open: L & D daily. $$
Local and seasonal microbrews are on tap here, including imports from Britain, Germany, and Ireland. The food is decent pub grub, such as baked goats’ cheese salad, gumbo, steak sandwich, and Southwest flat-iron steak sandwich.
Elliott Bay Brewery Pub
4720 California Avenue SW. Tel: 206-932 8695. www.elliottbaybrewing.com Open: L & D daily. $
West Seattle’s brewpub serves good pub food, such as crab cakes and burgers, as well as a selection of more than a dozen of their own beers, including several that are organic. The beers, such as the Luna Weizen wheat beer, have garnered various awards.
International
Endolyne Joe’s
9261 45th Avenue SW. Tel: 206-937 5637. www.chowfoods.com Open: B, L, & D daily. $$
This West Seattle restaurant changes its cuisine quarterly to a different part of the Americas, from the French Quarter to tropical islands, to Little Italy and beyond. Weekend breakfasts are popular.
Italian
La Medusa
4857 Rainier Avenue S. Tel: 206-723 2192. www.lamedusarestaurant.com Open: D Tue–Sat. $$$
One of the best restaurants in Columbia City, La Medusa serves sensual Sicilian fare – often using organic produce from the local farmers’ market and fish in season.
La Rustica
4100 Beach Drive SW. Tel: 206-932 3020. www.larusticarestaurant.com Open: D Tue–Sun. $$
You have to hunt for La Rustica, located in a residential neighborhood south of Alki, but the rustic Northern Italian specialties are worth the search. Try delicious chicken saltimbocca or sausages with bell peppers and cannellini beans.
Stellar Pizza
5513 Airport Way. Tel: 206-763 1660. www.stellarpizza.com Open: L Mon–Fri, D Tue–Sun. $
This family-owned Georgetown pizza joint serves huge, hand-tossed pizzas, calzones, sandwiches, and pastas amid retro artifacts. This is a relaxed, family-friendly restaurant with a big local following.
Modern Latin
Mission
2325 California Avenue SW. Tel: 206-937 8220. www.missionbar.com Open: D daily. $$
Some come to this West Seattle restaurant for the modern Latin cuisine (such as sweet-potato tacos or fish ceviche) – others for the drinks and the scene, both of which are best enjoyed late at night.
Bars and Cafés
Coffee to a Tea
4541 California Avenue SW. Tel: 206-937 1495. www.sugarrushbakingcompany.com
At The Junction in West Seattle, this sweet little spot serves strong espresso drinks and an assortment of beautifully crafted cupcakes.
Columbia City Bakery
4865 Rainier Avenue S. Tel: 206-723 6023. www.columbiacitybakery.com
If you’re in the ‘hood, make your way to this fragrant, happy little bakery – some of the most delicious pastries and freshly baked breads in town are waiting for you.
Lottie’s Lounge
4900 Rainier Avenue S. Tel: 206-725 0519. www.lottieslounge.com
‘Columbia City’s Neighborhood bar’ serves cocktails and snacks in the heart of the action.
Prost!
3407 California Avenue SW. Tel: 206-420 7174
Choose from the wide selection of German beers (which are served in appropriate vessels like steins and tall pilsner glasses), but save room for authentic German fare, or just a pretzel with mustard, at this lively bar in West Seattle.
