Squid Ink Risotto
When squid ink is used to make a pasta, it is often incorporated into the dough itself. But in this preparation from the Veneto, the ink is tossed with the arborio rice, and the result is a striking midnight-black risotto. Studded with rings of squid and their tentacles—as if straight from a Venetian lagoon—the risotto is a bit crunchier than the creamy version you might be used to, balanced by the sweet acidity of the tomato, invisible in the black ink but nevertheless present.
Serves 4
6 medium squid, fresh or frozen, cleaned (approximately ¾ pound)
2 lemons
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided, plus more for drizzling
½ bulb fennel, minced (about 1 cup)
1 medium white onion, diced
2 garlic cloves, finely diced
1 teaspoon tomato paste
½ teaspoon fine sea salt, plus additional for finishing
1 cup dry white wine
1½ cups carnaroli or arborio rice
4 tablespoons squid ink
1 teaspoon unsalted butter
½ teaspoon Espelette pepper
1. To prepare the squid, cut off the tentacles and halve if very large. Cut the squid bodies into ¼-inch-thick rings. Set aside.
2. Peel and juice the lemons, reserving peels.
3. In a large high-sided saucepan heat 2 tablespoons olive oil over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add the fennel, onion, garlic, tomato paste, and salt, stirring gently. After 5 minutes, add the white wine, then let reduce over low heat for an additional 5 minutes, until almost evaporated.
4. Add rice to the pan and incorporate. Then add 1 cup of water to the rice, and stir until absorbed. Continue to add ½ cup of water at a time as the rice absorbs the liquid, stirring all the time. The whole process will take approximately 20 minutes and you will need to add up to another 3 to 4 cups of water. The rice should remain al dente.
5. Add the lemon peel, squid ink, butter, and Espelette and incorporate. Then add the squid and the remaining tablespoon of olive oil and let cook for a final 5 minutes. Remove and discard the lemon peel. Finish with the lemon juice to taste.
6. To serve, divide among the serving dishes and finish with sea salt.
“At first Donna opened an antiques store and would occasionally invite someone to lunch. Once I asked if they could do a meal for ten. They shoved a few of the worn, wooden tables together. Everyone loved the food. So they constructed a proper kitchen and opened a restaurant!”
—CHUCK CLOSE