Torchio with Broccolini

Torchio is a sophisticated twist on fusilli. It’s an extruded pasta, which means it’s pushed through a press. The name is a bit of a mystery: the spiral shape itself resembles an early mechanical piece of machinery used for pressing grapes for wine, or for printing presses. Regardless of what it’s named after, the cup-shaped curved pieces are wonderful holders for sauce. And what better combination than broccolini with some meaty bacon made from a pig cheek?

Serves 4

Sea salt to taste

1 pound torchio (or fusilli, penne, or rigatoni)

2 tablespoons olive oil

6 ounces guanciale, julienned

1 bunch (12 ounces) broccolini, trimmed and roughly chopped

2 garlic cloves, chopped

Peperoncino to taste

¼ cup (4 ounces) finely shaved pecorino toscano, plus additional for finishing

1. Bring a medium-size pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta, cooking for 8 to 9 minutes or until al dente.

2. Meanwhile, heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Once shimmering, add the guanciale and cook, stirring constantly until crisp, approximately 2 minutes.

3. Carefully drain all but ½ tablespoon fat from the pan, then the add the broccolini, garlic, and peperoncino, letting it brown, approximately 2 minutes. Drain the pasta, reserving ½ cup pasta water.

4. Add ¼ cup reserved pasta water to the pan. Allow it to cook down for 2 to 3 minutes, stirring gently. Add a bit more pasta water only if sauce seems too dry.

5. Once the liquid is reduced, add the cooked pasta, the remaining tablespoon of olive oil, and pecorino and toss, still over heat, for 3 to 4 minutes.

6. To serve, equally divide the pasta among four bowls. Top with additional pecorino.

“I’ve been going to il Buco as long as it’s been open . . . You can find me on the corner of the bar at 3:30 most afternoons having a late lunch, eating delicious food, feeling satisfied and loved.”

—JOHN DERIAN