Paccheri with Lamb Sugo
Paccheri, akin to jumbo rigatoni, has its origins in Campania, and the name comes from una pacca, which means “a slap” in the local dialect. Allegedly, these large tubes were used by Italian garlic farmers to smuggle their superior garlic into the Prussian market in the early 1600s. Up to four large cloves could fit inside! Today, paccheri is often served with a hearty meat sauce like this lamb sugo that finds its way inside the pasta as well as coating the outside. On a chilly night, it’s the most soothing and comforting plate you can imagine.
Serves 4 to 6
2 cups coarse sea salt, plus additional to taste
1 white onion, quartered, plus another half
4 stalks celery, roughly chopped, divided
Peel of 1 lime
1 head of garlic, cut in half through its middle
2 bay leaves
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
½ teaspoon dried juniper berries
½ teaspoon allspice
2 cloves
1 lamb shoulder, approximately 1 pound, deboned
5 tablespoons olive oil, divided
1 carrot, roughly chopped
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 cup white wine
1 cup canned whole plum tomatoes
24 ounces paccheri
1 teaspoon unsalted butter
⅓ cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
1. Make the brine: Place coarse salt, ½ onion, half of the chopped celery, the lime peel, ½ head garlic, and all the spices into 4 quarts of water in a large stockpot and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat and let cool. Rinse the lamb shoulder and let it sit in the brine for 12 hours, refrigerated, to tenderize the meat.
2. Remove the shoulder from the brine and pat dry. Preheat the oven to 350°F.
3. Heat 3 tablespoons of the olive oil until shimmering in a cast iron skillet. Sear the lamb for 6 minutes, then flip and cook for another 6 minutes. Remove and set aside.
4. Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a dutch oven over medium heat until shimmering. Add the quartered onion, carrot, remaining chopped celery, and the remaining garlic and cook for 5 minutes. Stir in the tomato paste and allow to cook for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the wine and reduce for 5 minutes, then add the canned tomatoes. Reduce for another 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add 3 cups of water to the dutch oven and bring to a boil. Once boiling, add the lamb. Cover with foil and place in the oven for 1 hour 45 minutes to 2 hours, until the lamb is fork tender.
5. Remove the pot from the oven and carefully remove the lamb. Strain the liquid into a large pot through a fine-mesh strainer, discarding the solids. Pull the lamb into little pieces and add to the strained liquid.
6. Bring a large pot of salted water to boil. Add the paccheri and cook to al dente, 8 to 9 minutes.
7. Meanwhile, warm the sugo over medium heat in a dutch oven. When the paccheri is done, drain and toss into the sugo and add the butter.
8. Divide the pasta into bowls. Top with the grated Parmigiano-Reggiano and a sprinkle of sea salt to taste, and serve immediately.