Branzino al Sale
I think the greatest expression of a piece of fish is to be cooked under salt—it’s in its natural environment. The salt crust preserves the moisture of the fish and it allows the slow osmosis of salt into the skin. It’s one of those techniques that’s so simple and brilliant: the end result has perfect texture and delicate flavor. Each time I have it, cracking open the crust, I feel the same joy as when opening a package, the same kind of wonder at how delicious it is, as if I hadn’t had it a million times. At home I use fiore di sale—it’s indulgent but well worth it; coarse sea salt is more commonly used.
Serves 4
4 (1-pound) whole branzini, cleaned
½ teaspoon fine sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
4 sprigs parsley
4 large sprigs thyme
4 sprigs rosemary
3 lemons, 1 sliced into rounds, 2 halved
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus additional for garnish
1 large egg white at room temperature (if using coarse sea salt)
2 tablespoons whole pink peppercorns
4 cups coarse sea salt or fiore di sale
1. Rinse the branzino and pat dry. Place the fish on a large platter and season with fine sea salt and black pepper, making sure the fish are well coated, inside and out. Fill the cavity of each fish with a selection of parsley, thyme, and rosemary sprigs and a couple lemon slices. Drizzle lightly with 2 tablespoons of olive oil.
2. When ready to cook, preheat the oven to 400ºF. Place the fish on a parchment-lined sheet pan.
3. Whisk the egg white until frothy, then gently fold in the pink peppercorns and coarse sea salt. The consistency should be akin to wet sand. (If using fiore di sale, egg white will not be necessary.) Spread the salt mixture over and underneath the fish, packing it tightly over the tops and sides so that the fish are fully enclosed. Place 2 halved lemons next to them, cut sides up.
4. Roast until the salt crust turns golden brown, 30 to 35 minutes.
5. To serve, plate individually with a roasted half lemon with each fish. Let your guests break the crust (which shouldn’t be eaten) to reveal the treasure inside. Offer a drizzle of olive oil to garnish.
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—INEZ VAN LAMSWEERDE & VINOODH MATADIN