Wild Alaskan Salmon on Cedar
The first time I met Francis Mallmann, the Argentinean master of fire cooking, was in 2004. Peter Kaminsky invited me out to lunch at Francis’s house in East Quogue. We were seated at a beautiful wooden table with a huge fig tree growing through a hole in the center. All around us were planters filled with fresh herbs and on the table, beautiful wine in the finest stemware. Every moment is etched in my memory. One of the first things Francis served was a slow-cooked Alaskan king salmon. Succulent within, the fish was simple, elegant, and delicious. Though we can’t replicate Francis’s handmade oven, this is our version of that wonderful dish. The cedar planks—also called cedar shingles and often available at hardware stores—give just the right amount of smokiness. This salmon goes perfectly with grilled spring onions.
Our friendship was born over this delicious meal and a few months later, it was Francis who introduced me to Ignacio Mattos. Some fifteen years later, through continued gatherings at each other’s homes and restaurants, our bond endures.
Serves 4 to 6
1 (2-pound) wild Alaskan king salmon fillet
½ cup granulated sugar
1 cup coarse sea salt
1 cedar plank (be sure it is food grade)
Fine sea salt to taste
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1. Place the salmon in a nonreactive vessel and sprinkle with the sugar and coarse salt. Cover and let sit, refrigerated, for a minimum of 2 hours or overnight.
2. When ready to prepare, preheat the oven to 400°F. Soak the cedar plank in cold water for 20 to 30 minutes. Remove the salmon from the refrigerator, rinse to remove all the sugar and salt, and pat dry. Bring to room temperature.
3. Place the salmon, skin side up, on the plank. Sprinkle with the fine salt and pepper and brush with olive oil.
4. Place the plank on a sheet pan. Bake the fish until medium rare (between 110°F and 125°F), 10 to 15 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fillet. Alternatively, grill the salmon on the plank over medium heat for 15 minutes.
5. Portion onto plates and serve with grilled spring onions, ramps, or asparagus.
“Il Buco is where I took my wife on our first date. Luckily, after sitting next to my ex-girlfriend and having ten friends come in and interrupt us to say hello, she agreed to see me again. The rest is history.”
—JOSH TUPPER