Salted Caramel Gelato

Though no one can resist the siren call of a gelateria, I am not naturally inclined to finish my meal with anything but a strong espresso. Yet when Karen Sandoval, our first pastry chef at Alimentari, brought out a perfect scoop of this gelato, I was won over. She knew the way to my heart was the Trapanese sea salt she sprinkled on it. Partnered with the caramel, it’s the perfect salty-sweet combination. Although it’s a bit heretical, I love to plop a scoop of this in my espresso for a caramel affogato. (Traditionally, one uses vanilla gelato.) It’s the best of both worlds.

Serves 4 to 6

6 cups whole milk

¾ cup heavy cream

1¾ cups granulated sugar

⅓ cup packed brown sugar

5 large egg yolks

2 large eggs

1 teaspoon fine sea salt

Fiore di sale to taste (optional)

Special equipment needed: ice cream maker

1. In a small pot, make the gelato base by combining the milk and heavy cream. Heat uncovered, stirring constantly, over medium heat until scalding but not boiling. Remove from heat.

2. To prepare the caramel, boil the granulated sugar and ¼ cup of water in a large heavy-bottomed pot. Cook without stirring until the mixture reduces to a very dark caramel color and is slightly smoky, with a thick but smooth consistency. Remove from heat.

3. Deglaze the caramel by carefully adding the still hot dairy mixture. Whisk in the brown sugar.

4. In a large bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and the eggs. Temper roughly a quarter of the milk-and-caramel mixture into the eggs by adding it in a slow steady pour, whisking constantly. (If the milk is too hot, the eggs will cook and form curds.) Slowly pour your tempered eggs back into the pot with the rest of the caramel and milk. While stirring constantly, heat the mixture over medium heat until it reaches 185°F.

5. Strain the mixture through a fine-mesh strainer into a large bowl. Cover and refrigerate overnight.

6. The next day, whisk the sea salt into the cooled gelato base. Follow the ice cream maker’s instructions to process the gelato.

7. When serving, sprinkle a few crystals of fiore di sale on each portion if desired.

“You cannot have a pulse and leave il Buco without inspiration.”

—CHRIS FISCHER