Carciofi Fritti

Let others have April in Paris; I’ll go for March in Rome, when carciofi romaneschi are in season and the restaurants in the winding streets of the old Jewish ghetto proudly display towers of fresh artichokes. Carciofi alla giudia, also called carciofi fritti, are one of the greatest contributions of the cucina ebraicheromanesca, the millennia-old tradition of Jewish Roman cuisine. Crisp leaves give way to a tender, nutty, and earthy center. The trick here is not only to remove any tough leaves prior to frying but also to leach out any astringency by presoaking the globes in acidulated water. Do that, and the carciofi proves itself an ingredient without equal. This is a dish about honoring not only the history of Jews in Rome but also about honoring the ingredient itself. You might never find it prepared exactly this way in Rome, but the addition of the dehydrated preserved lemon peel powder, alla Justin Smillie, is the real secret weapon.

Serves 4

16 whole baby artichokes

3 lemons, 2 halved and 1 quartered for serving

1 (7-ounce) jar preserved lemons

Olive oil or canola oil, for frying

Fine sea salt, for finishing

1. To prepare the artichokes, fill a large container with 3 quarts water. Working one artichoke at a time, peel off the tough outer leaves until you begin to see a lighter pale green color. Trim the tops of the artichokes to expose their inner leaves and trim from about ¼ inch from the bottom of the globe. Using a peeler, remove the tough dark green outer skin of the remaining stem and base. Rub cut areas of the artichokes with one of the halved lemons as you work to prevent them from browning, then add the artichokes to the water as soon as each is trimmed. Repeat with the remaining artichokes.

2. Squeeze the remaining juice from the halved lemons into the water, then add the lemon halves themselves. Allow the artichokes to marinate overnight in the refrigerator, if possible.

3. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 200°F. Seed the preserved lemons. Spread them out in an even layer on a parchment paper–lined baking sheet. Place in the oven and let dry, approximately 2 hours. Once the lemons are dry and crisp, remove and blend in a spice grinder or blender to form a powder. Set aside.

4. When ready to cook, blanch the artichokes in boiling water for 3 to 4 minutes until the outer petals are tender. Drain and cool. Lightly crush the heart with the palm of your hand to open petals and spread them as wide as possible.

5. Heat 2½ inches of frying oil in a dutch oven to 350°F over medium-high heat. Working in batches, gently lower the artichokes into the oil and fry until golden brown and tender, 2 to 4 minutes.

6. Carefully remove the artichokes from the oil with a spider or slotted spoon and transfer them to a paper towel–lined plate. Season the artichokes with lemon powder and sea salt to taste while still hot, and serve with lemon wedges.