Pulpo a la Gallega

Galicia was Alberto’s first love. He fell for the region after his self-imposed exile from Italy, and he clung to it with the passion of a drowning man. Before Alberto and I ever traveled to Italy together, we went traveling through Spain.

What sustained us and ensured that we didn’t murder each other on those winding roads, in the little posadas that dot the countryside? Easy. Pulpo a la Gallega, eaten in the rough-and-ready polbeirias found throughout Galicia. Originally brought to Galicia from the coast by cattle traders, the octopus was preserved, packed in olive oil and paprika, and eaten at fairs (thus its other name, pulpo a feira). Happily, now we no longer have to rely on preserved octopus. It’s a simple but delicate dish: the octopus must be cooked just to tender, not chewy. The potatoes must likewise be boiled to tenderness but not to disintegration. When done right, this pairing of sea and field is divine. The proper drizzle of olive oil and a few crystals of salt are the final touch. Enjoyed with a glass of Albariño or a beautiful Manzanilla from Jerez, it salves all the day’s stresses.

Serves 4

4 large Spanish octopus tentacles, approximately 1 pound total

1 bay leaf

½ onion

4 garlic cloves

8 medium fingerling potatoes

4 tablespoons parsley leaves, torn

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon smoked paprika

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Sea salt

1. To prepare the octopus, bring 1 quart of water to a boil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the octopus, bay leaf, onion, and garlic. Cook for 20 to 30 minutes until tender.

2. Meanwhile, bring a medium pot of salted water to a boil. Add the potatoes and cook for 25 to 30 minutes, until potatoes are tender.

3. Remove the octopus and pat dry, reserving its cooking water. Slice the tentacles into ¼-inch coins.

4. Remove the potatoes and allow to cool slightly. Slice the potatoes into coins of the same width and thickness as the octopus.

5. If necessary, reheat the reserved octopus water over medium heat. Once simmering, add the octopus and potatoes once more. Boil for about a minute to reheat. Remove both from water with a slotted spoon.

6. To serve, lay the potatoes in a single layer on a plate, top with octopus. Finish with parsley, olive oil, paprika, black pepper, and sea salt to taste.