Il Buco chef Roger Martinez had a storied career at some of Spain’s best restaurants. But it wasn’t his time with Ferran and Albert Adria, the Roca brothers, or his years with Carles Abellán at La Barra, or even his experience with David Bouley here in New York that enticed me. It was his ability to bring the unique flavors of Spain to il Buco with his own touch. After all, if Italy is the mother country from which the il Buco spirit derives, the Iberian peninsula has always been the doting aunt.
Botifarra is a unique Catalonian sausage, unlike most other sausages, that is boiled then grilled. Roger makes his with Iberico pork shoulder and a little bit of belly. The meats get a nice char on the grill, as do the caramelized grilled peaches, which are a perfect counterpoint to the gamey pork.
Serves 4 to 6
2 pounds skinless pork shoulder (preferably Iberico), cut into 1-inch pieces
2 ounces pork belly
4 teaspoons coarse sea salt
¾ teaspoon pink curing salt
3 feet medium-size natural casing, soaked in 2 changes of lukewarm water for a total of 2 hours
1 tablespoon olive oil, plus more for dressing
4 peaches, halved and pitted
Leaves from 1 bunch mustard greens
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Special equipment needed: stand mixer with meat grinder and sausage stuffer attachment
1. In a large bowl, mix the pork shoulder, belly, coarse salt, and curing salt together. Place the mixture in the freezer just until meat reaches 32°F. Using a stand mixer with a meat grinder attachment, grind the meat through a coarse die (¼-inch plate or #5) into a chilled bowl. Pass half of the meat through the grinder again. Mix together and refrigerate until cold.
2. Rinse the casing well with cold water and feed onto a large tube of the sausage stuffer attachment on a stand mixer. Tie a knot at the end of the casing and pierce it gently with the tip of a toothpick. Pass the meat from the stuffer into the casing, making sure the meat is densely packed. Once you have used all the meat, twist the sausages into 4-inch lengths. Tie off the casing after the last sausage. Trim excess casing. Using a toothpick, prick the sausage a few times per link.
3. To prepare, bring a large pot of salted water to boil. Lower the heat to a low simmer, gently add the sausages, and poach for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, prepare an ice bath by filling a medium bowl with ice and cold water. Plunge the sausages into the ice bath to arrest cooking.
4. Heat a cast iron skillet over high heat with 1 tablespoon olive oil. Remove the sausages from the ice bath and gently pat dry. Add to the skillet and sear on all sides, turning as needed, until browned all over, approximately 5 minutes. Transfer the sausages to a plate and keep warm.
5. Add the peaches to the skillet, cut side down. Sear until browned, about five minutes. Dress the mustard greens lightly with oil and season with salt and pepper.
6. To serve, arrange the sausages and peaches, divided among four plates, garnish with greens, and season with sea salt to taste.