The first time I had this lamb at il Buco, I was blown away. When done low and slow, the meat gets beautifully caramelized, sealing in the rendered fat which, along with the brine, gives the meat so much of its flavor. The spice-rich rub, meanwhile, removes some of the “lambiness,” while the spicy and sweet romesco gives the fatty lamb the acidic counterpart it needs. The result is a compulsively eatable dish that’s just as nice in the fall and winter as it is in the summer and spring.
Serves 4
2 whole racks of lamb ribs, fat trimmed
For the brine
2 cups kosher salt
½ white onion
4 garlic cloves
2 bay leaves
1 sprig rosemary
1 sprig thyme
6 dried allspice berries
Peel of 1 lime
For the harissa rub
1 cup olive oil
1¾ pounds diced tomato (approximately 2 cups)
4 garlic cloves, grated
2 tablespoons paprika
1 tablespoon ground coriander seed
1 tablespoon ground cumin
1 tablespoon Aleppo pepper
1 tablespoon sumac
3 saffron threads (optional)
½ teaspoon sea salt
For the romesco sauce
1 cup white bread, interior only
1 cup canned piquillo peppers, drained
½ cup Marcona almonds, toasted
½ cup hazelnuts, toasted and skins rubbed off
½ cup olive oil
2 tablespoons red wine or sherry vinegar
1 garlic clove
1 teaspoon smoked paprika
1 teaspoon dried chili flakes
½ teaspoon sea salt, plus more for finishing
1. To prepare the brine, combine all the ingredients with 4 quarts of water in a large pot and bring to a boil, uncovered. Once a boil has been reached, turn off the heat and let cool. Once cool, add the ribs. Cover and refrigerate for 16 to 24 hours.
2. To make the harissa rub, heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat, then add the remaining harissa ingredients. Bring to a simmer and cook for 15 minutes. Let cool and then blend into a paste in a food processor or blender.
3. After the required time, remove the ribs from the brine and pat dry. Using your hands, rub the harissa in an even coat all over the ribs. Let sit for at least 30 minutes or overnight in the refrigerator.
4. To cook the ribs, preheat the oven to 275°F. Place the ribs on a baking rack set on a baking sheet and cook for approximately 3 hours or until tender. Then increase the temperature to 375°F and let cook for another 45 minutes. Remove from oven and let rest for 15 minutes, then cut into individual ribs.
5. To make the romesco, blend together all ingredients in a food processor or blender for 20 to 60 seconds.
6. Serve two to three ribs per person, seasoned with salt, on a spoonful of romesco.