Roasted Quail with Za’atar

When Sara Jenkins arrived at il Buco in 2000, she brought with her a quiver of deeply flavorful but totally approachable recipes, forged from a lifetime of traveling the Mediterranean. Sara’s father, Loren, was a foreign correspondent. Her mother, Nancy Harmon Jenkins, a legendary food writer. Sara had grown up hopscotching from cuisine to cuisine, with a large part of her childhood spent in Lebanon and later in Tuscany where the family had a country home. By the time she came to our kitchen, Sara had spent a good deal of time cooking in Florence and Tuscan wine country. I have fond memories of a trip to northern Spain and Tuscany with Sara and Roberto—an eating frenzy—that ended with a home-cooked meal at Sara’s lovely Tuscan home.

This recipe was, and is, by far one of my favorites of her preparations. It embodies what makes Sara Sara, a seemingly effortless dish that modestly cloaks immense talent. In it, crispy quail, humming with za’atar spice, is accompanied by Umbrian lentils, straight from the plateau of Casteluccio, famous for their ability to hold their texture after cooking.

Serves 4

4 quail, semiboneless

7 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided, plus additional for finishing

1 tablespoon sea salt, divided, plus additional for finishing

2 tablespoons za’atar spice

Freshly ground black pepper

1 medium white onion, sliced

1 leek, trimmed, washed, and thinly sliced

2 garlic cloves, chopped

1 sprig sage leaves

2 cups Umbrian lentils

2 cups dry white wine

2 teaspoons torn parsley for garnish

1. Rinse the quail and pat dry. Rub with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and 1 teaspoon of sea salt, then sprinkle with za’atar spice and pepper. Let sit uncovered in the refrigerator from 45 minutes to overnight.

2. To prepare the lentils, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add the onion, leek, garlic, sage, and 1 teaspoon of salt, cooking over low heat until the onion turns translucent, the leek tender, and the garlic gold, approximately 5 to 7 minutes.

3. Add the lentils, wine, and 2½ cups water, stirring gently. Bring to a boil then simmer uncovered and cook until tender, approximately 15 to 20 minutes.

4. Meanwhile, remove the quail from the refrigerator and allow to come to room temperature. Heat 3 tablespoons of the olive oil over medium-high heat until shimmering in a cast iron skillet. Add the quail, breast side down, and cook until golden, about 7 minutes. Then flip and cook for another 5 minutes.

5. To serve, equally divide the lentils among four plates and top each with a quail and a sprinkle of parsley. Season with sea salt and a drizzle of olive oil.

“Over these past 20 plus years, il Buco has provided the dining table at which to think, to interact, to debate, to love, and to eat so very well!”

—ROBERT ENSERRO