Scallop Crudo

In the coastal towns of Italy, where fish markets crowd the ports and the daily catch glistens in the sun, crudo di pesce has been served for centuries. Crudo means “raw” but the preparation isn’t as simple as that. A crudo is a delicate and fascinating interplay among the fish, citrus, oil, and, usually, a bit of spice. The same can be said for ceviche, a similar preparation with South American rather than Mediterranean roots. The acid—often from lemon, sometimes from vinegar—denatures the proteins of the fish, preserving its silken texture. Especially in shellfish like scallops and razor clams, this is key. What’s more, the natural sweetness of the seafood is more pronounced with the help of fresh herbal elements. After a quick cure to firm up the flesh, even oily fish like mackerel benefit from this less-is-more approach.

The tender sweet flesh of scallops makes them perfect for this simple yet quite sophisticated preparation. As so often is the case with crudi, it’s the exchange and interplay of citric acid with the seafood that brings to the dish its bright pop. The basil, meanwhile, brings an herbaceous hint, rounding out the flavors. If you can find a seafood shop with the scallops still in their shells, buy these. The shells add a beautiful flourish at the table, connecting you to the origins of these elegant creatures.

Serves 4

8 very fresh live-in-shell scallops (or roughly 1 pound of U-10 scallops)

3 tablespoons cold Meyer lemon juice (from approximately 2 lemons)

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon coarse sea salt

10 whole basil leaves (opal preferably)

1. If the scallops are live and in their shells, pry them apart with a shucking knife. Running the blade between the meat and the shell, separate the entire scallop from its shell. Using your fingers, remove the white edible part of the scallop from the inedible frill and gut. Rinse the scallops well under running water, tossing vigorously for 2 to 3 minutes. Clean and reserve shells.

2. Pat scallops dry and slice into ⅛-inch-thick coins.

3. Prepare the sauce by blending the Meyer lemon juice in a blender at full speed. Then slowly add olive oil. The sauce should have a consistency slightly thicker than olive oil (the cold juice makes for the best emulsification).

4. To serve, divide the scallop slices equally among eight shells, approximately 4 to 5 slices per shell. Spoon the Meyer lemon–oil mixture atop, season with sea salt, and garnish with basil leaves.