Razor Clam Ceviche

Though these long narrow clams—they look like a straight razor—didn’t start to appear on menus in New York until about ten years ago, they’ve long been prized in Asian cuisine, as well as Spanish and Italian. In Italy and Spain, they’re often grilled or broiled, but I find those preparations a bit rubbery and sometimes end up with remnant sand in my mouth. But when Justin Smillie first put them on the menu at Alimentari in this iteration, I was sold. I find their sweet subtle flavor is best showcased as a ceviche, with only the delicate acid of the finger limes to “cook” them. Naturally, a delicate olive oil like our Biancolilla and squeeze of lemon finishes the ceviche perfectly.

Serves 4

20 razor clams, live in shell

5 finger limes, whole

3 tablespoons Meyer lemon juice

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon fine sea salt

2 teaspoons chopped chives

Espelette pepper to taste

1. If the razor clams are not yet purged—ask your purveyor if they are—soak them in cold water for 20 minutes to remove any sand and grime. Then pop open the clams by running a paring or butter knife between the shells. Trim the clam by removing and discarding the belly portion, which is dark brown, leaving the meat, pearlescent and creamy, untouched. Run a knife between the flesh of the clam and the shell, then remove the meat. Slice on a bias into ¼-inch strips. Clean and reserve the shells.

2. Squeeze out four finger limes into a small bowl. Add the Meyer lemon juice and olive oil. Mix gently with a spoon so as not to break the juice vesicles, also called the pearls, of the lime.

3. Lay out four half shells per person. Fill each with razor clam slices, between 6 and 7, then sprinkle with sea salt. Spoon the citrus mixture over each shell of sliced clam, then garnish with chives and Espelette pepper. Thinly slice the remaining finger lime and scatter the slices atop the clams. Serve immediately.

“If I could reserve two seats, it would be the corner of the bar. From there I could reminisce, laugh, and know I am somewhere perfect.”

—MELANIE DUNEA