Grilled Calamari

There are a couple of summer staples I rely on when guests come to visit my house in East Hampton’s Springs: the small, sweet baby peppers from the wonderful farmstands and the fresh local calamari from Stuart’s seafood shop. Once in a while they actually offer the calamari cleaned, which saves lots of time and mess. I usually throw some peppers on one half of the grill and these calamari on the other. Both take about the same time to cook and both are perfect ways to begin an evening feast. The only trick here is that you’ll want a grill rack or tray so that the little calamari tentacles don’t fall through the grill. They’re the best part, and you don’t want to lose them. A healthy drizzle of olive oil, salt, pepper, and the best local cherry tomatoes make the perfect start to an early summer feast.

Serves 4 to 6

1½ pounds medium squid, cleaned

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano

1 teaspoon fine sea salt, plus more for finishing

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

2 tablespoons olive oil, divided, plus more for finishing

½ pint cherry tomatoes, halved widthwise (or quartered depending on the size)

1 bunch basil, torn into pieces, or chopped coarsely

1. Place the squid bodies and tentacles on a wide platter or in a large bowl. Season with the garlic, oregano, salt, and pepper and drizzle with 1 tablespoon olive oil. Toss to coat. Cover and let marinate for approximately 15 minutes.

2. In a small bowl, mix the halved cherry tomatoes, 1 tablespoon olive oil, basil, salt, and pepper.

3. Preheat grill over high heat. Place a grill tray on the grill to preheat as well, until the tray is ripping hot. (If you don’t have a tray, proceed with cooking directly on the grill, just be careful that the tentacles do not fall between the grates.)

4. Place the squid on the grill tray in a single layer. Cook, flipping once, until the flesh is opaque and slightly charred but still tender, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Divide the bodies and the tentacles onto plates and top with the halved tomato and basil mixture. Finish with salt and olive oil to taste, and serve immediately.

“The bookish should not miss the exquisite edition of Poe on the shelves by the door to the wine cellar, where this old sommelier’s heart is trapped forever, just like the dude in ‘The Cask of Amontillado,’ which of course takes place there. . . .”

—WILLIAM FITCH