Grilled Octopus with Chickpeas
When New York Times restaurant critic Pete Wells asked in his three-star review of Alimentari, “Is it crazy to fall for a restaurant because of a handful of chickpeas?” these were the chickpeas he had in mind. “Tasting one was like encountering a goldfinch if the only birds you’d ever seen were pigeons.” And with that, this dish by Justin Smillie was endeared to me forever. Since we opened, Alberto had been championing the chickpeas we imported directly from Cuore Verde in Umbria. As for the octopus itself, Chuck Close, a twenty-year regular, is such a fan we’ve never been able to take it off the menu without fielding his complaints. So it’s thanks to Chuck, to Alberto, and, of course, to Justin, that Pete walked out that night in love with il Buco Alimentari and our chickpeas.
Serves 4
5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided
1 white onion, peeled and halved
1 bulb fennel, quartered
1 garlic bulb, halved
1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
1 bottle dry white wine
2 tablespoons sea salt, plus 1 teaspoon, divided
1 (6-pound) octopus
1½ cups dried chickpeas, preferably Umbrian, soaked overnight in room temperature water
4 fresh bay leaves
2 tablespoons salted capers, rinsed and drained
Juice of 1 lemon
¼ cup chopped parsley
½ bunch chives, finely chopped (about ⅓ cup)
1. Heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a large stockpot over medium heat until it shimmers. Then add the onion, fennel, and garlic and cook for 6 to 8 minutes. Add the black peppercorns, wine, 2 tablespoons salt, and 8 cups of water. Bring the liquid to a simmer, then add the octopus. Cook 1 hour, or until the octopus is tender. Remove the octopus from the liquid. Separate the head from the tentacles, discarding the head or reserving for another use. Set aside the tentacles.
2. Meanwhile, drain the chickpeas and transfer them to a large stockpot. Add enough water to cover them by approximately 3 inches. Add the bay leaves and the remaining teaspoon salt, bring to a boil, then lower to a simmer for 40 to 50 minutes, until the chickpeas are tender but still retain their texture. Drain and place in a medium bowl.
3. Heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil over medium heat in a small sauté pan. Lightly fry the capers, 3 to 4 minutes. Pour the contents of the pan into the chickpeas and stir in the lemon juice and parsley. Taste and season with salt. Set aside.
4. Cut the tentacles on the bias into 1½-inch slices but leave whole if small. Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat with the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Sear the octopus, suction side down, until charred, then flip and continue cooking, 4 to 5 minutes total.
5. To serve, equally divide the chickpeas among four plates. Place the octopus atop the chickpeas, then finish with sea salt, chives, and a dash of olive oil.