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Page numbers followed by “n” indicate notes.
Abbey, Edward, 134
Age of Exploration, 32
Alaska, viii–ix, 77–78, 293–97. See also bears; climate change; Harriman Expedition; natives
Alaska Airlines, 132
Alaska and Its Resources (Dall), 10
Alaska Climate Change Impact Mitigation Program, 210–11
Alaska Department of Fish and Game, 219–20
Alaska Dispatch News, 208
Alaska Marine Highway System, 13, 25, 27, 103, 200
Alaska Mental Health Trust, 49
Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Act, 284
Alaska Native Claims Settlement Act (ANCSA), 284
Alaskan Hotel and Bar, Cordova, 192
Alaska State Legislature, 75, 295
Alaska State Library and Museum, 78
Aleutian Islands, 7, 13, 32, 34, 37, 52, 111, 112, 172, 200, 214, 217, 231, 243, 247, 258
Aleutian local, 250–59
Aleuts, 34, 111–12, 114, 247, 260, 261, 263, 264, 281
Alexander Archipelago, 20, 35, 40, 49, 121, 260, 267, 281, 282
all points north, 8–13
Alutiiqs, 213
American West, 7, 15–16, 17, 18
Amundsen, Roald, 79
Anchorage, 30, 42, 43, 76, 79, 80, 81, 83, 84, 85, 101, 118, 133, 142, 170, 173, 192, 200, 201, 203, 217, 224, 232, 233, 234, 241, 252, 253, 257, 265, 269, 272, 274
Anchor Inn, Whittier, 204
Antiquities Act, 283, 283n, 284, 297
Appletons’ Guide-Book to Alaska and Northwest Coast (Scidmore), 74
Arctic, 78, 79, 190, 251, 275, 276, 284, 285, 295
Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, 86, 140, 141, 195, 284, 294–95
Arrhenius, Svante, 210
Asia, 33, 85, 168, 217, 252, 274
Atlantic Monthly, 162–63
Audubon, John James, Lucy, 17, 188
bald eagles, 70, 72, 92, 104, 153, 214, 262
Bamboo Room, Haines, 91
Baranof Hotel, Juneau, 77
Baranov’s Castle, Sitka, 107, 114
Barrow, 274
Barry Glacier, 198, 205–6, 206
bars on marine ferries, 27–28, 105
Bartlett Cove, 137, 143, 145, 147
bears, 2, 11. See also Alaska; specific bears
encounters with, 116–20, 143–44, 155–56, 157–59, 160, 163, 234–35, 238, 239
guns vs., 119, 151, 222, 223, 235, 238
Harriman and, 10, 17, 127, 129, 162, 182, 214–15, 218, 219, 222, 228, 229, 250
life among the bruins, 217–28
loaded for bear, 213–16
mothers and cubs, 117, 155, 215, 219, 223–24, 226–27, 228
signs, 3, 119, 143, 149, 153–54, 222
weather, bears like the, 59
bear spray, 117, 118, 119, 134, 151, 156, 157, 158
Begich Towers, Whittier, 204–5
Bellingham, Washington, 25, 29
Bellow, Saul, 179
Beneville, Richard, 270–71, 273–76
Bering Land Bridge, 32, 70, 135, 209, 269
Bering Sea, 7, 35, 247, 248, 251, 252, 267, 275
Bering Strait, 33, 85, 113, 168, 275
Berton, Pierre, 99
Big Stickeen Glacier, 68
birds, 5, 11, 15, 17, 82, 88, 130, 134, 146, 181, 188–89, 190, 194, 214, 229, 236, 246, 250, 256, 283n
Bishop’s House, Sitka, 107, 108, 109, 110–11, 112–13, 247
black gold (oil), 12, 27–28, 31, 75–79, 80, 81, 82, 84, 86, 101, 140, 141, 195, 284, 294–95
Black Hills Expedition, 17
blast from the past, 229–45
“blob, the,” 211
Bogoslof Island, 250
Boone and Crockett Club, 18, 18n, 138–39, 139n, 215, 219, 280, 281, 283n
border (strange), 110
Borneman, Walter R., 112
“Boston Men,” 267
Brady, John, 106–7, 114–15, 279
Brady (Taylor) Glacier, 183–85, 186
Brandt, Harvey, 107–9, 110, 111, 112–13, 113–14, 116
Brinkley, Douglas, 281
British Columbia, 6, 28, 36, 37–39, 42, 67, 89, 142
Brooks, Paul, 139n
brown bears, 117, 118, 119, 120, 134, 155–56, 157–59, 160, 214, 215, 218, 219, 226, 235, 281–82, 287, 295
Buckner Building, Whittier, 204
budget crisis, 75–76, 80–87, 101, 140, 295
buffalo, 7, 17, 82, 138, 187, 188, 249
Bureau of Land Management, 86
Burroughs, John. See also Harriman Expedition
adventurers ransacking the land, 186
Bering Sea vs., 247, 248, 251, 252
College Fjord, 198
Devil’s Thumb, 72
Kodiak, 213, 214, 215, 216, 217, 226
Muir and, 21, 130, 247, 248, 293
natives and, 38
pilfered bird nest, 246–47, 256
Russell Fjord, 175
salmon overfishing, 187
Sitka, 106
Treadwell Mine, 73
Wrangell, 57
bush, 100, 230, 238–39, 256, 288
California (steamship), 60, 61
calving, 71, 123, 128, 129–30, 136, 147, 152, 163, 183, 198, 206, 207, 209–10
Canada, 2, 37, 67, 68, 69, 70, 73, 89, 100, 110, 154, 166, 249, 261, 277
Canadian Yukon, 37, 73, 89, 96, 98, 268
Cannamore, Brittney, 142–43, 145, 296
Cannamore, David, 1, 2, 3, 4, 142–43, 145, 146, 147, 148–49, 150–52, 153, 154, 156–59, 163, 296
canneries, 42, 47, 52, 55, 66, 104, 186, 187–88, 190, 191, 196, 218, 224, 225, 258, 264, 290. See also salmon
Cannon Beach, Yakutat, 178
Cape Fox Village, 277–78, 278–79
Captains Bay, 264
Carpenter, Kristin, 190, 192, 193, 195
Carter, Jimmy, 284
Castle Hill, Sitka, 114
catastrophic retreat, 135, 136
cattle ranching, 219–20
Celebration week in Juneau, 78
cell service in Alaska, 51, 52
channel discoveries, 197–201
Charley (Sitka Charley), 90, 122, 123
cheechakos (newcomers), 27
Chicago Store, Kodiak, 213
Chief Shakes Glacier, 71
Chignik, 255–56
Chilkat Eagle B&B, Haines, 90, 94, 96
Chilkat Tlingits, 88–95, 96, 122, 278
Chilkoot Pass, 98
Chilkoots, 93
Chills and Fever (Fortuine), 41
Chirikov, Aleksei, 33
Chugach National Forest, 282
Chukchi Peninsula, 252
Churchill, Winston, 82
“civilizing the savages,” 36–39, 42
Civil War, 10, 41, 113, 129n, 268
clear-cutting, 49
climate change. See also Alaska; glaciers; global warming
erosion, 83, 133, 201, 211, 288, 290, 292
growing season, 83–84
hoax?, 31, 136–37, 174n, 174–75, 209
Little Ice Age, 135–36, 206, 210, 212
ocean (warming), 133, 212, 276, 297
polar bears as mascots of, 287
precipitation changes, 50, 133
“science isn’t settled,” 211
sea levels, 32, 161, 178, 209, 211
Shishmaref, 200–201, 286, 287, 289
temperature shifts, 32, 71, 83, 84, 133, 135, 136, 140–41, 209, 210, 211, 212, 275, 276, 285–86, 294, 297
White House (new), 294, 295, 297
coal boom, 84
Cody, Buffalo Bill, 17
Coleridge, Samuel Taylor, 180
College Fjord, 197, 198, 206, 282
Columbia Glacier, 197, 198, 206
Columbus, Christopher, 32, 210
Committee on Lectures, 182
conservation, 2, 11, 16–17, 17–18, 18n, 22, 49, 133, 137–40, 216, 280–84, 283n, 296. See also Grinnell, G. B.; Harriman Expedition; Muir, John; Roosevelt, Theodore
Coolidge, Calvin, 284
Copper River Highway, 195–96
Copper River Watershed Project (CRWP), 190, 191, 192
Cordova, 190, 191, 192, 193, 194, 195, 197, 200, 262
Cordova Times, The, 193
“cross-pollination of ideas,” 137
Cruikshank, Julie, 169
Cruise of the Corwin, The (Muir), 251
cruise ships, 3, 4, 13, 46, 48, 50, 58, 63, 83, 88, 89, 91, 97, 102, 134, 135, 145, 150, 159, 163, 178, 202, 209–10, 262, 296
Crystal Serenity (ship), 79, 101, 200, 201, 254, 261, 271, 273, 275, 276, 295
Curtis, Edward, 10, 16, 100, 116, 130, 167, 215, 278, 279–80
Daanawaak (Chilkat Chief), 92, 93, 94
Dall, William Healey, 10, 33, 36–37, 41, 100, 109, 130, 162, 182, 279
Dangeli, Mique’l, 37
dating platitude of Alaskan women, 62
Dauenhauer, Nora Marks, Richard, 43
Dave (bush pilot), 234, 235, 236, 239, 243, 244
deepwater ports, 85, 203, 275, 276
Deer Mountain, 49
Dellenbaugh, Frederick, 14, 73–74, 100, 114, 121, 128, 178, 180, 248, 252, 277, 278
Denali, 31, 59, 80, 101, 136, 170, 269
Derrick, Hal, 224–25
Devereux, Walter, 72–73
devil may care, 56–60
Devil’s Thumb, 72
Dick, George, 43
Dickrell, Jeff, 261, 262, 263, 264, 265
dinosaur fossil hunts, 17
Disenchantment Bay, 164
Distant Early Warning System, 272
Division of Biological Survey, 282
Dodge, Brigid and Harry, 218, 219, 220, 221–22, 223, 224, 225–26, 227, 228, 231, 295
Dodge (rescued Kodiak bear cub), 228
Do Glaciers Listen? (Cruikshank), 169
Doran, Peter, 127, 198, 199, 205, 206, 277, 280
Douglas Island, 73
Duncan, William, 37–38, 39, 42, 44, 52, 55
Dürer, Albrecht, 35
Dutch Harbor, 13, 111, 112, 200, 247, 248, 252, 253, 256, 257, 258–59, 260–66, 269, 270, 271, 295
Dyea, 98
earthquakes, 163, 164, 166, 168–69, 170, 171, 172, 173, 205, 206, 231, 232. See also shaken/stirred
eco-disasters, 181–96, 249, 279
Eddie’s Fireplace Inn, King Salmon, 244–45
Edrie (fishing boat), 166, 167, 168
Eisenhower, Dwight, 86
Elder (steamship), life on, 16, 19, 20–21, 27, 36, 73, 106, 181, 182, 199, 200, 255, 268, 277, 279, 280, 281. See also Harriman Expedition
Elliott, Daniel, 182
Emmons, George, 108–9, 169, 170
endangered, 246–49
end of the road (Yakutat), 173–80
environmental movement, 280–84, 283n. See also conservation
Environmental Protection Agency, 294
Eocene epoch, 229
ergot, 153
erosion, 83, 133, 201, 211, 288, 290, 292
Eskimos, 47, 252, 267, 274, 286, 289, 291
expedition vs. vacation, 9, 13
Explorer (charter), 205
Exxon Valdez, 191–92, 193–95, 198
Fairbanks, 42, 65, 83, 84, 161, 170, 230
Fairweather Fault, 166
Fairweather Mountains, 126, 166, 269
Falling Mountain, 242
False Pass, 258
Fat Grandma’s, Yakutat, 178–79
federal budget dependence, 86–87
“federal overreach,” 2, 25, 65, 77, 86
ferry tales, 25–31
fire built by Muir in Wrangell, 62, 63
first-class men, 14–19
First Presbyterian, Wrangell, 59–60
fishermen, hypothermic, 3
fjords, 4, 11, 68, 88, 123, 125–26, 154–55, 156–57. See also specific fjords
“Flight to Shishmaref” (day trip), 201
Footpath Along Indian River, Sitka (Curtis), 116
Forest and Stream, 10, 17, 138, 249, 279, 296. See also Grinnell, G. B.
forgotten front (Dutch Harbor), 260–66
Fort Mears, 263
Fortuine, Robert, 41
Fort Wrangell, 42, 61–66, 146. See also Wrangell
fossil fuels, 83
Fourth of July celebration, 215–16
Fox, Stephen, 68
fox farm island, 198
Fox News, 63
Freud, Sigmund, 77
Friends of Glacier Bay, 140
frontier exploitation vs. wilderness preservation, 77–78
full Muir, 145–60
fun, three types of (McDowell), 241
fur, 11–12, 33–34, 41, 109, 113, 162, 187, 213, 247, 265, 267, 279
Gannett, Henry, 10, 199, 294, 296
Gates of the Arctic National Park, 78
“General Geography” (Gannett), 294
George W. Elder. See Elder
Gilbert, Grove Karl, 10, 148, 165
Gilbert Peninsula, 148
Gilded Age, 5
Glacier Bay, 1, 2, 3, 4, 6–7, 11, 33, 35, 103, 121, 122–26, 127, 128, 130, 133, 135–37, 140, 142, 143, 144, 145–60, 161, 163, 164, 166, 167, 182, 183–86, 208–9, 210, 267, 278, 280, 296
Glacier Bay National Park, 1–4, 134, 149–50, 173, 284
glaciers, 6. See also climate change; specific glaciers
calving, 71, 123, 128, 129–30, 136, 147, 152, 163, 183, 198, 206, 207, 209–10
catastrophic retreat, 135, 136
federally protected, 282
gold and, 268
growing, 3, 136, 174n, 174–75, 183–84, 208–9
ice age process and, 31
melting, 2–3, 4, 70–71, 79, 131, 133, 135–36, 146–47, 163, 164, 206, 208–9, 210, 212, 297
Muir, 11, 21, 24, 45, 63, 67, 68–69, 72, 93, 137, 146, 183, 184, 293, 294
tidewater, 71, 128, 174, 199, 207, 212
Glaciers of Alaska (Molnia), 208
Gland Loop tour, 282
Glass Door Bar, Yakutat, 178
global warming, 3, 12, 201, 208–12, 211, 294. See also climate change
“gobble gobble economics,” 11
Going to Extremes (McGinniss), 27
gold, 11–12, 42, 57–58, 61, 67, 72–74, 78, 96–102, 186, 260, 268–69, 271–73, 274, 286, 294
Goldsmith, Scott, 80–82, 83, 84–85, 85–86, 295
Good Friday Earthquake, 169, 171–72, 232
Grand Aleutian hotel, 263, 265
Grand Pacific Glacier, 131, 135, 147, 153, 154
Grand Tour, 6
graphophone, 114, 115, 162, 186
Great Alaskan Lumberjack Show, 49
Great Britain, 34, 67, 109, 110, 113
Great Death, 44
Great Depression, 84
Greater America Exposition, 15–16
Great Glacier, 68
great land (discovery of Alaska), 32–35
greenhouse gases, 210
green men, 277–84
Griggs, Robert, 231–32, 236, 237–38, 242
Grinnell, George Bird, 10, 17–18, 38, 48, 109, 127, 137, 138, 139–40, 169, 182, 187, 188–89, 190, 191, 211, 215, 228, 249, 279–80, 281, 296, 297. See also conservation; Forest and Stream; Harriman Expedition
growing glaciers, 3, 136, 174n, 174–75, 183–84, 208–9
growing season, 30, 83–84, 211
guano, 82
Gulf of Alaska, 33, 177, 211, 242
Gustavus, 130, 141–42, 143, 150, 151, 153, 161, 174, 178, 295–96
Haines, 30, 88–89, 90–92, 94–95, 97, 107, 122
Hammond, Jay, 81
Harper’s New Monthly Magazine, 24
Harriman, Edward. See also Harriman Expedition
background of, 5–6, 7, 8, 13, 15, 16, 20, 71, 181, 182, 198–99, 251–52
bear hunting, 10, 17, 127, 129, 162, 182, 214–15, 218, 219, 222, 228, 229, 250
family, 6, 129, 216, 224n, 251, 269, 280
graphophone, 114, 115, 162, 186
hunting with Harriman, 127–31
Indian Jim (Tlingit) and, 162
Muir and, 11, 14–15, 128, 129, 140, 181, 214, 216, 252, 283, 293
novelty of Alaska, waning, 267, 269
Union Pacific Railroad, 5–6, 15, 16, 99
visit to Mr. Merriam, 5–7
White Pass and Yukon Route Railroad, 99–100, 101
Harriman Alaska Series, The, 11, 12, 16–17, 49, 52, 116, 187, 196, 208, 229, 246, 279, 282, 294, 296. See also Merriam, C. Hart
Harriman Expedition. See also Alaska; Burroughs, John; conservation; Elder (steamship), life on; Grinnell, G. B.; Harriman, Edward; Merriam, C. Hart; Muir, John; specific other members
all points north, 9–11, 12, 13
Bogoslof Island, 250
channel discoveries, 197, 198, 199, 200
Dutch Harbor, 260
first-class men, 14–19
Harriman Glacier, 207
Klondike fever, 96, 98–99, 100
Kodiak, 213, 214, 216, 218, 229
Lituya Bay, 165
members of, 6, 10, 12, 14, 15, 16, 21, 130, 181–82, 205, 230, 255
natives and, 36, 37, 38, 39, 41, 42, 43, 55, 162, 267, 286
Pribilof Islands, 246, 247, 248
return of, 277, 278, 279, 280–81, 296
Roosevelt (T.) and, 48
Russian America, 103, 104, 106–7, 109, 110, 114, 115
shaken/stirred, 161, 162, 164, 165
Skagway, 88
transitions, 133, 135, 136, 137, 139
“two Alaskas problem,” 77–78
westbound, Harriman Special, 14–16
Yakutat Bay, 180
Harriman Fjord, 197, 200, 205, 213
Harriman Glacier, 200, 206, 207, 208, 211, 212, 240
Hawaii, 35, 172, 177, 205, 237, 260, 263, 279
Haycox, Stephen, 87
Heacox, Kim, 132–33, 133–34, 136, 137, 140–41, 142, 152, 296
Heacox, Melanie, 134–35, 135–37, 142, 145, 173, 296
Healy, 238
Henry, Daniel Lee, 89
Hills, Candy, 179
Hoffman, Albert, 153
Holocene epoch, 211
horses, White Pass, 99, 100, 268
Howling Valley, 127–31
Hubbard Glacier, 174–75, 209–10, 212
Hudson’s Bay Co., 67, 109, 110, 112
Hugh Miller Glacier, 125
Humboldt, Alexander von, 23
Humboldt’s Gift (Bellow), 179
Huna Tlingits, 123, 124–25, 183–84
hunting, 10, 17–18, 18n, 127, 128, 129, 130, 139n, 162, 182, 214–15, 216, 218, 219, 222, 228, 229, 250, 282–83, 283n
Hunting Trips of a Ranchman (Roosevelt), 17–18
Hussey, John, 231
Hyder, 88–89
Ibach, Muz and Joe, 152
Ice Chief, 93
ice mountain, 121–26
Icy Waves Surf Shop, Yakutat, 176–77
Iditarod, 270
Indian Jim (Tlingit), 162
Indian River Trail, 116–17
Indians of the Great Plains, 38
Industrial Revolution, 210, 211
Innocent, Bishop (Ivan Veniaminov), 111–12, 247, 261
Inside Passage, 6, 9, 11, 13, 20, 29, 40, 48, 49, 50, 60, 61, 63, 88, 89, 91, 122, 132, 161, 182, 230, 278, 294
Internal Revenue Service, 271
isostatic rebound, 133
Jackson, Sheldon, 42, 43, 44–45, 54, 60, 61, 63, 89, 107, 268, 286
Japan, 40, 168, 203, 249, 263, 264, 265, 274
John Muir Alaska Leadership School, 296
Johns Hopkins Glacier, 136, 208–9, 212
Johnson, Robert Underwood, 137–39
John (Stikine Tlingit), 90
Jones, William, 287–88, 289, 290, 291, 292, 295
Juneau, 12, 67, 69, 72–73, 74, 75, 77, 78, 79, 80, 84, 88, 89, 96, 101, 103, 108, 121, 122, 128, 132, 133, 143, 170, 177, 179, 192, 231, 234, 295
Juneau Icefield, 269
Kadachan (Chilkat chief), 90, 122, 278
Kah Lituya (story of), 169
Kake, 41
Katmai National Park, 200, 229, 231, 232, 250, 284
kayaking, 1, 3, 70, 91, 112, 142, 143, 145, 147, 148–49, 151, 153–54, 158, 159, 296
Keeler, Charles, 199, 214, 215, 215n, 247, 248
Kelly, Luther (“Yellowstone”), 129, 129n, 162, 215
Ketchikan, 29, 46, 47–48, 49–50, 51, 55, 56, 57, 58, 64, 69, 89, 104, 122, 173, 180, 200, 254, 269, 276, 277
Kiffer, Dave, 48
Kigiqtaamiuts, 286
King, Bob, 191
King Cove, 258
king crab fishing, 264–65
King Salmon, 233, 234, 235, 241, 244
Kiska Island, 263
Klondike fever, 6, 67, 73, 96–102
Klondike Gold Rush National Park, 97
Kodiak, 17, 180, 200, 213, 214–15, 216, 217, 226, 228, 243, 250, 255, 277, 281
Kodiak Island, 7, 213, 217–18, 219, 220, 221, 222, 223, 224, 225, 228, 229, 230, 231, 246, 254, 260, 295
Kodiak Island and Its Bears (Dodge), 218, 219, 220, 221
Kokeok, Shelton, 290
Kuroshio Current, 40
Lacey, John, 283n
Lamplugh Glacier, 163, 164, 166
land’s end, 285–92
Land’s End hotel, Nikolaevsk, 253
La Pérouse, François de, 166, 170
Late Wisconsin glacial period, 32
Leask, Naomi, 51, 52, 53, 54, 55
“leave no trace” philosophy, 152
life among the bruins, 217–28
Little Ice Age, 135–36, 206, 210, 212
Lituya Bay, 165–66, 167, 168, 169, 170, 232
“Living Glaciers of California” (Muir), 24
loaded for bear, 213–16
lobbyists, 77
London, Jack, 99
Lonely Planet, 58
longhouse, 54
Looking Far North (Goetzmann and Sloan), 77–78
Lynn Canal, 88, 89, 91, 92, 100, 103, 122
Malaspina Glacier, 161–62
Mallott’s General Store, Yakutat, 178
Margerie Glacier, 147
marijuana legalization, 84
Mariposa Big Tree Grove, 139
Matanuska (ferry), 56
Matanuska-Susitna Valley, 84
Matney, Mike and Lydia, 64, 65–66
McCandless, Chris, 238, 239, 239n
McDowell, Kyle, 232, 233, 234–35, 236, 237, 238, 239, 240, 241, 242, 243, 244, 245, 253, 254
McDowell Glacier, 240–41
McGinniss, Joe, 27
McKinley, William, 49, 280, 281
melting glaciers, 2–3, 4, 70–71, 79, 131, 133, 135–36, 146–47, 163, 164, 206, 208–9, 210, 212, 297
Mendenhall Glacier, 78
Merriam, C. Hart, 5–7, 10, 11, 13, 14, 15, 16, 18n, 48, 100, 108–9, 122, 127, 129, 130, 169, 186, 197, 214–15, 219, 246–47, 248, 249, 252, 256, 269, 280, 281, 282. See also Harriman Alaska Series, The; Harriman Expedition
methane, 211
Metlakatla, 37, 38, 39, 42, 44, 47, 51–52, 53, 54, 55, 61, 78, 105, 121, 254, 269
Mike (bartender), 245
Miller, Don, 168
Mini Mart, Metlakatla, 53, 54, 55
Molnia, Bruce, 208, 209, 210, 211–12
Monkey Wrench Gang (Abbey), 134
Montana’s Glacier National Park, 17
Moon, Sun Myung, 85
moose, 2, 70, 101, 141, 156, 281–82, 286
morning of creation, 67–71
mosquito, state bird, 154
Mount Cerberus, 240
Mount Dewey, 63
Mount Fairweather, 166
Mount Iliamna, 230–31
Mount Juneau, 73
Mount Katmai, 231, 232, 235, 236, 237–38, 239–40, 243
Mount Logan, 174
Mount Merriam, 148
Mount Pavlof, 258
Mount Rainier, 10
Mount St. Elias, 33, 161, 174, 178, 231
Mount St. Helens, 231
Mount Trident, 240
Muir, Daniel (John’s father), 21–22, 61
Muir, John. See also conservation; Harriman Expedition
Alexander Archipelago, 20, 267
animals had God-given rights, 185–86
background of, 6, 11, 21–24, 24n, 60, 61, 62, 122, 140, 182
blindness, circular saw, 22, 23
boy rescued by, 94
Burroughs, 21, 130, 247, 248, 293
Cape Fox Village, 278–79
Cruise of the Corwin, The, 251
death of, 293
full Muir, 145–60
Glacier Bay, 2, 3, 4, 6–7, 11, 121, 122–26, 133, 135, 142, 145–60, 164, 183–86
glacier expert, 11, 21, 24, 45, 63, 67, 68–69, 72, 93, 137, 146, 183, 184, 293, 294
Grinnell and, 137, 139, 280, 296, 297
Harriman, 11, 14–15, 128, 129, 140, 181, 214, 216, 252, 283, 293
hunting despised by, 128, 139n, 162, 214, 216, 282–83, 283n
Klondike fever, 96
“Living Glaciers of California,” 24
Louie Strentzel (wife), 62, 138, 182
Merriam, 11, 13, 122, 130, 197, 280, 281
nature, God, 22, 23–24, 24n, 68, 69
Our National Parks intro, 280, 282
Prince William Sound, 197, 199
Roosevelt (T.) and, 281, 282–83, 283n
scenery of Alaska as chief asset, 294
St. Lawrence Island, 250–51
Stickeen (dog), 182, 183, 184, 185–86
Story of My Boyhood and Youth, 293
Ten Thousand Smokes, 235
Tlingits and, 2, 62, 68, 89–90, 92–94, 122, 123, 124–25, 146, 162, 175, 182, 183–84, 185, 186, 267, 278, 294, 296
Travels in Alaska, vii, 11, 13, 92, 186, 278, 294
USS Jeannette mission, 250–51
Vancouver’s maps, 35, 123, 136
Wrangell, 57, 59–60, 61–62, 63, 65, 69, 70, 71
Yosemite glacier theory, 67–68, 146
“Yosemite National Park,” 162–63
Young and, 61, 62–63, 67, 68, 92–93, 124, 126, 175, 182–83, 184, 267
Muir Glacier, 2–3, 121, 127, 128, 130, 131, 146–47, 164–65, 183
Muir Inlet, 164
Muir Point, 146
Muir Woods, 283
Muldrow Glacier, 136
Murkowski, Frank and Lisa, 53, 86, 140
MV Columbia (ferry), 71
MV Fairweather (catamaran), 104–6
MV Kennicott (ferry), 20, 25–31, 42, 46–47, 48, 56, 180
MV LeConte (ferry), 103–4
Nanney, Dave, 90–92, 94, 95, 96, 97
Nation, The, 101
national forest vs. national park, 49
National Geographic Society, 5, 231–32
National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA), 194
National Park Service (NPS), 108–9, 116, 117, 134, 150, 152, 161, 174, 235, 238, 284
National Weather Service, 174, 177
Native Americans, 18
natives, 8, 36–39, 40–45, 55, 108–9, 162, 169, 251, 252, 267, 279–80, 284, 286. See also Alaska; Tlingits; specific other natives
nature, God, 22, 23–24, 24n, 68, 69
“Nature has a few big places beyond Man’s power to spoil” (Muir), 296
nature writing genre, 7, 10–11, 24
Nauru, 82
navy veteran returning to Alaska, 30
Nelson, George F., 37
new gold rush, 267–76
New Metlakatla, 38. See also Metlakatla
New Yorker, 170
Nikolaevsk, 253
Nome, 85, 100, 173, 200, 252, 254, 267, 268–76, 285, 286, 291, 292, 295
Nome Nugget, 273
North American Indian (Curtis), 279–80
North American Plate, 171, 231
North American Whitetail, 64
Northern Commercial Company (NCC), 247, 248, 249
Northern Pacific Railroad, 16
North Pacific Fur Seal Convention, 279
Northwest Passage, 34, 35, 79, 101, 162, 199, 200, 254, 260–61, 262, 274, 295
“not in my backyard,” 69–70
Not One Drop (Ott), 192
Novarupta, 233, 238, 241, 242–43
ocean (warming), 133, 212, 276, 297
oil. See black gold
Oil Spill Recovery Institute, 193
Old Believers, 253
Orca, 186, 187–88, 189, 190, 193, 196, 199, 213, 249
ore stampers, 73
Organic Act of 1884, 43–44
Outside/Outsider, 30, 48, 141, 165, 257
Pacific Northwest, 32, 34, 35, 54, 109, 170
Pacific Ocean, 34, 35, 36, 40, 107, 110, 168, 170, 200, 269
Palache, Charles, 214
Panama Canal, 34
Panic of 1893, 98
Passage Canal, 204
passenger pigeons, 187, 188–89, 249
“Path to a Fiscal Solution, The” (Goldsmith), 81
Patterson Glacier, 72
Pearl Harbor attack by Japanese, 263
permafrost, 2, 83, 209, 211, 286
Permanent Fund Division (PFD), 76–77, 81–82, 210, 295
Petroglyph Beach, 67
phosphate, 82
Pinnell, Bill, 225
Pioneer Bar, Sitka, 119
Pioneer Square, Seattle, 9, 279
pipelines, 12, 43, 44, 62, 75, 76, 78, 81, 85, 192, 194, 284
plane crashes, 234
Plover Bay, 252
Point Doran, 205
point-of-view videos, 88
polar bears, 47, 120, 199, 250, 287, 291
Powell, John Wesley, 14
precipitation changes, 50, 133
Presbyterians, 42, 59–60, 94, 107, 278
preservationists, 280–84, 283n. See also Grinnell, G. B.; Muir, John
Pribilofs, 246, 247–49, 251, 267, 279
primary succession, 149
Prince William Sound, 7, 180, 186, 191, 192, 193, 194, 197, 198, 205, 206
Reid Glacier, 152
Reid Inlet, 149
relocating coastal settlements, 83
“repeat precision photography,” 208
retreating. See melting glaciers
Rime of the Ancient Mariner, The (Gannett), 199
Ring of Fire, 168
road system, 12–13, 30, 65, 84, 88–89, 173, 192, 195, 200, 203, 234, 262, 288, 289
Roosevelt, Theodore, 17–18, 48–49, 129n, 138–39, 280–83, 283n, 284, 293, 294, 296. See also conservation
Roosevelt, Theodore, Sr., 106–7
round-the-world railroad, 85
Rozell, Ned, 175
Russell Fjord, 175
Russell Island, 1, 2, 3, 4, 135, 153–54, 156
Russia, 6, 10, 33–34, 35, 41, 67, 213, 218, 247, 249, 252, 253, 260. See also Soviet Union
Russian Orthodox, 106, 108, 253
salmon, 2, 40, 42, 43, 47, 50, 58, 66, 83, 104–5, 143, 156, 184, 186, 187, 188, 189, 190, 191, 195, 196, 211, 218, 221, 223, 224, 226, 228, 235, 238, 244, 249, 281, 295. See also canneries
Samoans, 202–3
Samovar Cafe, Nikolaevsk, 253
San Andreas Fault, 171
San Francisco, 34, 62, 96, 99, 109, 139, 164, 170, 182, 187, 261, 269
San Francisco Chronicle, 63, 277
Sarichef Island, 200, 285, 286, 290
scenery of Alaska, 294, 296, 297
Scidmore, Eliza, 74, 107, 148, 248
“science isn’t settled,” 211
sea levels, 32, 161, 178, 209, 211
seals, 70, 90, 92, 122, 123, 155, 162, 179, 187, 247, 248, 249, 251, 261, 279, 285, 286, 289, 290
sea otters, 33–34, 110, 146, 150, 162, 194, 261
Seattle, Washington, 6, 9, 16, 20, 25, 30, 47, 66, 96, 98, 99, 151, 161, 179, 263, 277, 279
Seattle Post-Intelligencer, 96–97
Second Continental Congress, 34
second thoughts, 51–55
secret history (natives), 40–45
self-reliant Alaskans, 65, 87, 233
senior citizens sector, growing, 85–86
shaken/stirred, 161–72. See also earthquakes; tsunamis; volcanic eruptions
Shakes Lake, 71
Shishmaref, 200–201, 211, 285–92, 295
Shivering Hill, 165
Shumagin Islands, 246
Siberia, 32, 33, 99, 111, 112, 247, 251, 252, 253, 260, 267, 268
Sierras, 62, 68, 69, 122, 126, 282
Sitka, 6, 103, 104, 105, 106, 107, 111, 112, 115, 116, 117, 119, 132, 161, 169, 170, 179, 180, 183
Skagway, 6, 30, 84, 88–89, 96–101, 102, 103, 104, 121, 122, 132, 268, 276
smallpox, 37, 41, 44, 112, 279
Smithsonian Institution, 215, 229
Somali refugees, 258–59
sourdoughs (longtime residents), 27
Southeast Alaska, 1, 4, 39, 40, 49, 50, 78, 122, 133, 145, 168, 171
Southern Pacific Railroad, 283
South Marble Island, 146
Soviet Union, 224n, 252, 272. See also Russia
Spain, 32, 34, 109–10, 193, 215
Spencer, Ted, 203–4
spray skirt, 148
Spurr, Josiah, 236
SS Manhattan (tanker), 78–79
St. Lawrence Island, 250–51
St. Michael’s Cathedral, Sitka, 107, 108, 116
starfish, 150
Stark, Colin, 163
“Stars and Stripes Forever,” 115, 215
Stefansson, Vilhjalmur, 261
Sterling, Keir, 18n
Stern, Harry, 260
Stickeen (dog), 182, 183, 184, 185–86
Stikine Tlingits, 67, 89–90, 92, 124–25, 126, 128, 183
Story of My Boyhood and Youth, The (Muir), 293
Strentzel, Louie, 62, 138, 182
strike-slip fault, 166
Sugpiaqs, 187–88
summer of ‘79 (Fort Wrangell), 61–66
Sunmore (fishing boat), 167
sunrise panorama, 126, 155, 157, 296
surf capital. See Yakutat
survival of the wettest, 46–50
Sutter, John, 110
Swanson, William and Vivian, 167
Taku Tlingits, 183
Talifson, Morris, 225
Taylor (Brady) Glacier, 183–85, 186
tea brick, 113
tectonic plates, 163, 166, 171, 231
Ted Stevens Anchorage Airport, 234
telegraph line across Alaska, 37
Teller, Edward, 85
temperature shifts, 32, 71, 83, 84, 133, 135, 136, 140–41, 209, 210, 211, 212, 275, 276, 285–86, 294, 297
Ten Thousand Smokes, 229, 231–33, 235, 236, 237, 240, 241, 243, 250, 254
Thomas Corwin (cutter), 250, 251, 252
Thoreau, Henry David, 24n, 139
tidewater glaciers, 71, 128, 174, 199, 207, 212
tip of the iceberg. See Alaska; climate change
Tlingits, 40–42, 43, 44. See also natives; specific other Tlingits
gold rushes and, 260
Harriman and, 162
Little Ice Age and Glacier Bay, 136
Muir and, 2, 62, 68, 89–90, 92–94, 122, 123, 124–25, 146, 162, 175, 182, 183–84, 185, 186, 267, 278, 294, 296
Russian America, 109, 111, 112, 114, 115
seismicity stories, 168–69
totem poles stolen from, 277–78, 279
Tongass, 279
Tongass National Forest, 48, 49, 104, 282
totem poles, 9, 40, 116, 277–78, 279
tourism, 13, 46, 49–50, 76, 83, 85, 104, 163–64, 178, 262, 272, 275
Toyatte (Stikine Tlingit chief), 89–90, 92, 124–25, 126, 128, 183
Trans-Alaska Pipeline, 12, 62, 75, 76, 78
Transcendentalists, 24n
transitions, 132–44
Travels in Alaska (Muir), vii, 11, 13, 92, 186, 278, 294
Treaty of Cession, 41
Truffer, Martin, 122
Tsimshians, 37–39, 40, 42, 53, 54–55, 78
tsunamis, 163, 165, 168–69, 170, 171–72, 232. See also shaken/stirred
Turner, Frederick Jackson, 18
Tustumena (ferry), 200, 243, 250, 253–58, 261, 265, 295
“two Alaskas problem,” 77–78
two Johnnies, 20–24. See also Burroughs, John; Muir, John
Ulrich, Howard, Howard Jr., 166–67, 168
Ulukhaktok, Canada, 261
Unalaska. See Dutch Harbor
Union Pacific Railroad, 5–6, 15, 16, 99
United States purchase, Alaska, 11, 41, 106, 110, 113–14, 219, 248, 284
University of Alaska, Anchorage, 80, 81
University of Alaska, Fairbanks, 42, 43, 169–70, 175, 201, 286
uranium mining, 297
U.S. Biological Survey, 100, 214
U.S. Coast Survey, 198
U.S. Department of Agriculture, 49, 83–84
U.S. Division of Biological Survey, 5
U.S. Geological Survey (USGS), 167, 168, 208, 236
U.S. Navy, 41–42
U.S. Supreme Court, 195
USS Jeannette, 250–51
utilitarians, 280
Uyak Bay, 217, 218, 220, 221, 228
vacation vs. expedition, 9, 13
Valdez, 169
Vancouver, George, 25, 35, 123, 136, 146, 153, 197, 241
Vancouver Island, 36
Veniaminov, Ivan (Bishop Innocent), 111–12, 247, 261
visit to Mr. Merriam, 5–7
volcanic eruptions, 111, 168, 169, 171, 230, 231, 232, 233, 234, 236, 237–38, 246, 251, 258. See also shaken/stirred
walruses, 251, 286, 287, 289, 290
Washington, DC, 2, 5, 170, 211, 214, 277, 280, 283
Wasilla, 81
weird (Whittier), 172, 200, 202–7
welcoming people, Alaskans, 64–65, 66
West, Mike, 169–70, 170–71, 233
Weyiouannas, 285, 286, 290–91, 291–92
whales, 11, 72, 88, 142, 143, 146, 195, 251, 252, 267, 268, 275, 287
Whidbey, Joseph, 35
White Pass and Yukon Route Railroad, 99–101, 102, 145
Whitney, Josiah, 67–68
wilderness preservation vs. frontier exploitation, 77–78
William Duncan Memorial Church, 52
Williams, Joy, 270
Wood Island, 214
World War II, 178, 203, 262, 263
World War II veteran, 47
Worster, Donald, 22
Wrangell, 6, 42, 45, 56, 57–60, 63–66, 67, 68, 69, 71, 72, 89, 90, 121, 122, 182, 183
Wrangell–St. Elias National Park, 173
Yakutat, 165, 173–80, 203, 209, 295
Yakutat Bay, 161–62, 164, 166, 173
Yancey, Eric, 69–71
Yellowstone, 5, 78, 138, 139, 173, 249, 281, 283n
Yendustucky, 92
Yosemite, 44, 67–68, 78, 138, 139, 150, 163, 282, 294
Yosemite glaciers (Muir), 67–68, 146
“Yosemite National Park” (Muir), 162–63
Young, S. Hall, 61, 62–63, 67, 68, 89, 90, 92–93, 94, 123, 124, 126, 128, 138, 146, 175, 182–83, 184, 185, 267
Yupiks, 251
Zarembo Island, 59