Index

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Page numbers followed by “n” indicate notes.

Abbey, Edward, 134

Age of Exploration, 32

Akutan, 258, 259

Alaska, viii–ix, 77–78, 293–97. See also bears; climate change; Harriman Expedition; natives

Alaska Airlines, 132

Alaska and Its Resources (Dall), 10

Alaska Climate Change Impact Mitigation Program, 210–11

Alaska Department of Fish and Game, 219–20

Alaska Dispatch News, 208

Alaska Marine Highway System, 13, 25, 27, 103, 200

Alaska Mental Health Trust, 49

Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Act, 284

Alaska Native Claims Settlement Act (ANCSA), 284

Alaskan Hotel and Bar, Cordova, 192

Alaska Pipeline, 43, 44, 81

Alaska State Legislature, 75, 295

Alaska State Library and Museum, 78

albatross, 180, 199

Aleutian Islands, 7, 13, 32, 34, 37, 52, 111, 112, 172, 200, 214, 217, 231, 243, 247, 258

Aleutian local, 250–59

Aleuts, 34, 111–12, 114, 247, 260, 261, 263, 264, 281

Alexander Archipelago, 20, 35, 40, 49, 121, 260, 267, 281, 282

all points north, 8–13

Alutiiqs, 213

American West, 7, 15–16, 17, 18

Amundsen, Roald, 79

Anchorage, 30, 42, 43, 76, 79, 80, 81, 83, 84, 85, 101, 118, 133, 142, 170, 173, 192, 200, 201, 203, 217, 224, 232, 233, 234, 241, 252, 253, 257, 265, 269, 272, 274

Anchor Inn, Whittier, 204

Angoon, 41, 179

Annette Island, 36–39, 40

Antiquities Act, 283, 283n, 284, 297

Anvil Creek, 268, 272

Appletons’ Guide-Book to Alaska and Northwest Coast (Scidmore), 74

Arctic, 78, 79, 190, 251, 275, 276, 284, 285, 295

Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, 86, 140, 141, 195, 284, 294–95

Arrhenius, Svante, 210

Asia, 33, 85, 168, 217, 252, 274

Atlantic Monthly, 162–63

Attu Island, 263–64, 269

Audubon, John James, Lucy, 17, 188

Audubon Society, 10, 17

Baked Mountain, 242, 243, 254

bald eagles, 70, 72, 92, 104, 153, 214, 262

Bamboo Room, Haines, 91

Baranof Hotel, Juneau, 77

Baranov’s Castle, Sitka, 107, 114

Barrow, 274

Barry Glacier, 198, 205–6, 206

bars on marine ferries, 27–28, 105

Bartlett Cove, 137, 143, 145, 147

bears, 2, 11. See also Alaska; specific bears

encounters with, 116–20, 143–44, 155–56, 157–59, 160, 163, 234–35, 238, 239

food (human) and, 3, 144, 145

guns vs., 119, 151, 222, 223, 235, 238

Harriman and, 10, 17, 127, 129, 162, 182, 214–15, 218, 219, 222, 228, 229, 250

life among the bruins, 217–28

loaded for bear, 213–16

mothers and cubs, 117, 155, 215, 219, 223–24, 226–27, 228

signs, 3, 119, 143, 149, 153–54, 222

weather, bears like the, 59

bear spray, 117, 118, 119, 134, 151, 156, 157, 158

Begich Towers, Whittier, 204–5

Bellingham, Washington, 25, 29

Bellow, Saul, 179

Beneville, Richard, 270–71, 273–76

Benson, Diane, 42–43, 44

Bering, Vitus, 33, 111, 193

Bering Land Bridge, 32, 70, 135, 209, 269

Bering Sea, 7, 35, 247, 248, 251, 252, 267, 275

Bering Strait, 33, 85, 113, 168, 275

Berton, Pierre, 99

Big Stickeen Glacier, 68

Bird, Nancy, 193, 194, 195–96

birds, 5, 11, 15, 17, 82, 88, 130, 134, 146, 181, 188–89, 190, 194, 214, 229, 236, 246, 250, 256, 283n

Bishop’s House, Sitka, 107, 108, 109, 110–11, 112–13, 247

black bears, 117, 118, 119

black gold (oil), 12, 27–28, 31, 75–79, 80, 81, 82, 84, 86, 101, 140, 141, 195, 284, 294–95

Black Hills Expedition, 17

blast from the past, 229–45

“blob, the,” 211

Bogoslof Island, 250

Boone and Crockett Club, 18, 18n, 138–39, 139n, 215, 219, 280, 281, 283n

border (strange), 110

Borneman, Walter R., 112

“Boston Men,” 267

Brady, John, 106–7, 114–15, 279

Brady (Taylor) Glacier, 183–85, 186

Brandt, Harvey, 107–9, 110, 111, 112–13, 113–14, 116

Brewer, William, 215, 246

Bridge to Nowhere, 48, 84

Brinkley, Douglas, 281

British Columbia, 6, 28, 36, 37–39, 42, 67, 89, 142

Brooks, Paul, 139n

Brooks Camp, 235, 238

brown bears, 117, 118, 119, 120, 134, 155–56, 157–59, 160, 214, 215, 218, 219, 226, 235, 281–82, 287, 295

Buckner Building, Whittier, 204

budget crisis, 75–76, 80–87, 101, 140, 295

buffalo, 7, 17, 82, 138, 187, 188, 249

Bureau of Land Management, 86

Burroughs, John. See also Harriman Expedition

adventurers ransacking the land, 186

background of, 10–11, 21, 36

Bering Sea vs., 247, 248, 251, 252

College Fjord, 198

Devil’s Thumb, 72

Dutch Harbor, 247, 262

first-class men, 15, 16

Glacier Bay, 128, 130

Klondike fever, 99, 100

Kodiak, 213, 214, 215, 216, 217, 226

Kukak Bay, 229, 230

Muir and, 21, 130, 247, 248, 293

natives and, 38

pilfered bird nest, 246–47, 256

Roosevelt (T.) and, 48, 281

Russell Fjord, 175

salmon overfishing, 187

shaken/stirred, 161, 162

Sitka, 106

Treadwell Mine, 73

Wrangell, 57

bush, 100, 230, 238–39, 256, 288

bush pilots, 233, 234, 290

California (steamship), 60, 61

calving, 71, 123, 128, 129–30, 136, 147, 152, 163, 183, 198, 206, 207, 209–10

Canada, 2, 37, 67, 68, 69, 70, 73, 89, 100, 110, 154, 166, 249, 261, 277

Canadian Yukon, 37, 73, 89, 96, 98, 268

Cannamore, Brittney, 142–43, 145, 296

Cannamore, David, 1, 2, 3, 4, 142–43, 145, 146, 147, 148–49, 150–52, 153, 154, 156–59, 163, 296

canneries, 42, 47, 52, 55, 66, 104, 186, 187–88, 190, 191, 196, 218, 224, 225, 258, 264, 290. See also salmon

Cannon Beach, Yakutat, 178

Cape Fox Village, 277–78, 278–79

Capra, Jim, 173, 174–76, 178

Captains Bay, 264

carbon dioxide, 210, 211, 294

Carpenter, Danny, 193, 195

Carpenter, Kristin, 190, 192, 193, 195

Carter, Jimmy, 284

Castle Hill, Sitka, 114

catastrophic retreat, 135, 136

cattle ranching, 219–20

CBS, 177, 193

Celebration week in Juneau, 78

cell service in Alaska, 51, 52

Cenotaph Island, 166, 167

Century Magazine, 137, 139

channel discoveries, 197–201

Charley (Sitka Charley), 90, 122, 123

cheechakos (newcomers), 27

Chicago Store, Kodiak, 213

Chief Shakes Glacier, 71

Chignik, 255–56

Chilkat Eagle B&B, Haines, 90, 94, 96

Chilkat Tlingits, 88–95, 96, 122, 278

Chilkoot Pass, 98

Chilkoots, 93

Chills and Fever (Fortuine), 41

China, 50, 65, 253, 275

Chirikov, Aleksei, 33

Chugach Mountains, 80, 197

Chugach National Forest, 282

Chukchi Peninsula, 252

Chukchi Sea, 260, 286

Churchill, Winston, 82

“civilizing the savages,” 36–39, 42

Civil War, 10, 41, 113, 129n, 268

clear-cutting, 49

climate change. See also Alaska; glaciers; global warming

erosion, 83, 133, 201, 211, 288, 290, 292

growing season, 83–84

hoax?, 31, 136–37, 174n, 174–75, 209

Little Ice Age, 135–36, 206, 210, 212

ocean (warming), 133, 212, 276, 297

polar bears as mascots of, 287

precipitation changes, 50, 133

“science isn’t settled,” 211

sea levels, 32, 161, 178, 209, 211

Shishmaref, 200–201, 286, 287, 289

temperature shifts, 32, 71, 83, 84, 133, 135, 136, 140–41, 209, 210, 211, 212, 275, 276, 285–86, 294, 297

White House (new), 294, 295, 297

coal boom, 84

Cody, Buffalo Bill, 17

Cold Bay, 258, 266

Cold War era, 204, 272

Coleridge, Samuel Taylor, 180

College Fjord, 197, 198, 206, 282

Columbia Glacier, 197, 198, 206

Columbus, Christopher, 32, 210

Committee on Lectures, 182

conservation, 2, 11, 16–17, 17–18, 18n, 22, 49, 133, 137–40, 216, 280–84, 283n, 296. See also Grinnell, G. B.; Harriman Expedition; Muir, John; Roosevelt, Theodore

Cook, James, 34–35, 256, 260

Cook Inlet, 80, 217

Coolidge, Calvin, 284

Copper River, 186, 191, 192

Copper River Highway, 195–96

Copper River Watershed Project (CRWP), 190, 191, 192

Cordova, 190, 191, 192, 193, 194, 195, 197, 200, 262

Cordova Times, The, 193

crab pots, 65, 66

“cross-pollination of ideas,” 137

Cruikshank, Julie, 169

Cruise of the Corwin, The (Muir), 251

cruise ships, 3, 4, 13, 46, 48, 50, 58, 63, 83, 88, 89, 91, 97, 102, 134, 135, 145, 150, 159, 163, 178, 202, 209–10, 262, 296

Crystal Serenity (ship), 79, 101, 200, 201, 254, 261, 271, 273, 275, 276, 295

Curtis, Edward, 10, 16, 100, 116, 130, 167, 215, 278, 279–80

Daanawaak (Chilkat Chief), 92, 93, 94

Dall, William Healey, 10, 33, 36–37, 41, 100, 109, 130, 162, 182, 279

Dangeli, Mique’l, 37

dating platitude of Alaskan women, 62

Dauenhauer, Nora Marks, Richard, 43

Dave (bush pilot), 234, 235, 236, 239, 243, 244

deepwater ports, 85, 203, 275, 276

deer, 36, 128, 142, 156

Deer Mountain, 49

Dellenbaugh, Frederick, 14, 73–74, 100, 114, 121, 128, 178, 180, 248, 252, 277, 278

Denali, 31, 59, 80, 101, 136, 170, 269

Derrick, Hal, 224–25

Devereux, Walter, 72–73

devil may care, 56–60

Devil’s Thumb, 72

Dick, George, 43

Dickrell, Jeff, 261, 262, 263, 264, 265

dinosaur fossil hunts, 17

Disenchantment Bay, 164

Distant Early Warning System, 272

Division of Biological Survey, 282

Dodge, Brigid and Harry, 218, 219, 220, 221–22, 223, 224, 225–26, 227, 228, 231, 295

Dodge (rescued Kodiak bear cub), 228

Do Glaciers Listen? (Cruikshank), 169

dolphins, 146, 186

Doran, Peter, 127, 198, 199, 205, 206, 277, 280

Douglas Island, 73

Duncan, William, 37–38, 39, 42, 44, 52, 55

Duncan Cottage Museum, 51, 54

Dürer, Albrecht, 35

Dutch Harbor, 13, 111, 112, 200, 247, 248, 252, 253, 256, 257, 258–59, 260–66, 269, 270, 271, 295

Dyea, 98

earthquakes, 163, 164, 166, 168–69, 170, 171, 172, 173, 205, 206, 231, 232. See also shaken/stirred

eco-disasters, 181–96, 249, 279

Eddie’s Fireplace Inn, King Salmon, 244–45

Edrie (fishing boat), 166, 167, 168

Eisenhower, Dwight, 86

Elder (steamship), life on, 16, 19, 20–21, 27, 36, 73, 106, 181, 182, 199, 200, 255, 268, 277, 279, 280, 281. See also Harriman Expedition

Elliott, Daniel, 182

Emmons, George, 108–9, 169, 170

endangered, 246–49

Endicott, Jack, 177, 178

end of the road (Yakutat), 173–80

environmental movement, 280–84, 283n. See also conservation

Environmental Protection Agency, 294

Eocene epoch, 229

ergot, 153

erosion, 83, 133, 201, 211, 288, 290, 292

Eskimo ice cream, 289, 291

Eskimos, 47, 252, 267, 274, 286, 289, 291

Etolin Island, 59, 66

expedition vs. vacation, 9, 13

Explorer (charter), 205

Exxon Valdez, 191–92, 193–95, 198

Eyaks, 187–88, 193

Fairbanks, 42, 65, 83, 84, 161, 170, 230

Fairweather Fault, 166

Fairweather Mountains, 126, 166, 269

Falling Mountain, 242

False Pass, 258

Fat Grandma’s, Yakutat, 178–79

federal budget dependence, 86–87

“federal overreach,” 2, 25, 65, 77, 86

Fernow, Bernhard, 49, 181

ferry tales, 25–31

fire built by Muir in Wrangell, 62, 63

first-class men, 14–19

First Presbyterian, Wrangell, 59–60

fishermen, hypothermic, 3

fjords, 4, 11, 68, 88, 123, 125–26, 154–55, 156–57. See also specific fjords

“Flight to Shishmaref” (day trip), 201

Footpath Along Indian River, Sitka (Curtis), 116

Forest and Stream, 10, 17, 138, 249, 279, 296. See also Grinnell, G. B.

forgotten front (Dutch Harbor), 260–66

Fort Mears, 263

Fort Ross, 109, 110, 112

Fortuine, Robert, 41

Fort Wrangell, 42, 61–66, 146. See also Wrangell

fossil fuels, 83

Fourth of July celebration, 215–16

Fox, Stephen, 68

foxes, 226, 227

fox farm island, 198

Fox News, 63

Freud, Sigmund, 77

Friends of Glacier Bay, 140

frontier exploitation vs. wilderness preservation, 77–78

full Muir, 145–60

fumaroles, 232, 233, 237, 238

fun, three types of (McDowell), 241

fur, 11–12, 33–34, 41, 109, 113, 162, 187, 213, 247, 265, 267, 279

Gannett, Henry, 10, 199, 294, 296

Gastineau Channel, 73, 74

Gates of the Arctic National Park, 78

“General Geography” (Gannett), 294

George W. Elder. See Elder

Gilbert, Grove Karl, 10, 148, 165

Gilbert Inlet, 165, 167, 168

Gilbert Peninsula, 148

Gilded Age, 5

Glacier Bay, 1, 2, 3, 4, 6–7, 11, 33, 35, 103, 121, 122–26, 127, 128, 130, 133, 135–37, 140, 142, 143, 144, 145–60, 161, 163, 164, 166, 167, 182, 183–86, 208–9, 210, 267, 278, 280, 296

Glacier Bay National Park, 1–4, 134, 149–50, 173, 284

glaciers, 6. See also climate change; specific glaciers

calving, 71, 123, 128, 129–30, 136, 147, 152, 163, 183, 198, 206, 207, 209–10

catastrophic retreat, 135, 136

federally protected, 282

gold and, 268

growing, 3, 136, 174n, 174–75, 183–84, 208–9

ice age process and, 31

landslides and, 163, 166

melting, 2–3, 4, 70–71, 79, 131, 133, 135–36, 146–47, 163, 164, 206, 208–9, 210, 212, 297

Muir, 11, 21, 24, 45, 63, 67, 68–69, 72, 93, 137, 146, 183, 184, 293, 294

tidewater, 71, 128, 174, 199, 207, 212

Glaciers of Alaska (Molnia), 208

Gland Loop tour, 282

Glass Door Bar, Yakutat, 178

global warming, 3, 12, 201, 208–12, 211, 294. See also climate change

“gobble gobble economics,” 11

Goetzmann, William, 16, 77–78

Going to Extremes (McGinniss), 27

gold, 11–12, 42, 57–58, 61, 67, 72–74, 78, 96–102, 186, 260, 268–69, 271–73, 274, 286, 294

Goldsmith, Scott, 80–82, 83, 84–85, 85–86, 295

Good Friday Earthquake, 169, 171–72, 232

Grand Aleutian hotel, 263, 265

Grand Canyon, 283, 296, 297

Grand Pacific Glacier, 131, 135, 147, 153, 154

Grand Tour, 6

graphophone, 114, 115, 162, 186

Great Alaskan Lumberjack Show, 49

Great Britain, 34, 67, 109, 110, 113

Great Death, 44

Great Depression, 84

Greater America Exposition, 15–16

Great Glacier, 68

great land (discovery of Alaska), 32–35

greenhouse gases, 210

green men, 277–84

Griggs, Robert, 231–32, 236, 237–38, 242

Grinnell, George Bird, 10, 17–18, 38, 48, 109, 127, 137, 138, 139–40, 169, 182, 187, 188–89, 190, 191, 211, 215, 228, 249, 279–80, 281, 296, 297. See also conservation; Forest and Stream; Harriman Expedition

grizzly bears, 117, 119, 155

growing glaciers, 3, 136, 174n, 174–75, 183–84, 208–9

growing season, 30, 83–84, 211

Grumman Goose, 224n, 224–25

guano, 82

Gulf of Alaska, 33, 177, 211, 242

Gustavus, 130, 141–42, 143, 150, 151, 153, 161, 174, 178, 295–96

Haida Tlingits, 40, 78

Haines, 30, 88–89, 90–92, 94–95, 97, 107, 122

Hammond, Jay, 81

Harper’s New Monthly Magazine, 24

Harriman, Edward. See also Harriman Expedition

background of, 5–6, 7, 8, 13, 15, 16, 20, 71, 181, 182, 198–99, 251–52

bear hunting, 10, 17, 127, 129, 162, 182, 214–15, 218, 219, 222, 228, 229, 250

death of, 85, 181, 293

family, 6, 129, 216, 224n, 251, 269, 280

graphophone, 114, 115, 162, 186

hunting with Harriman, 127–31

Indian Jim (Tlingit) and, 162

Muir and, 11, 14–15, 128, 129, 140, 181, 214, 216, 252, 283, 293

novelty of Alaska, waning, 267, 269

Union Pacific Railroad, 5–6, 15, 16, 99

visit to Mr. Merriam, 5–7

White Pass and Yukon Route Railroad, 99–100, 101

Harriman Alaska Series, The, 11, 12, 16–17, 49, 52, 116, 187, 196, 208, 229, 246, 279, 282, 294, 296. See also Merriam, C. Hart

Harriman Expedition. See also Alaska; Burroughs, John; conservation; Elder (steamship), life on; Grinnell, G. B.; Harriman, Edward; Merriam, C. Hart; Muir, John; specific other members

all points north, 9–11, 12, 13

Bogoslof Island, 250

channel discoveries, 197, 198, 199, 200

Dutch Harbor, 260

eco-disasters, 183, 193, 196

first-class men, 14–19

Glacier Bay, 121, 127, 128

Harriman Glacier, 207

Ketchikan, 46, 47, 49

Klondike fever, 96, 98–99, 100

Kodiak, 213, 214, 216, 218, 229

Kukak Bay, 229, 230, 231

Lituya Bay, 165

members of, 6, 10, 12, 14, 15, 16, 21, 130, 181–82, 205, 230, 255

natives and, 36, 37, 38, 39, 41, 42, 43, 55, 162, 267, 286

new gold rush, 267, 268

Orca, 186, 189

Pribilof Islands, 246, 247, 248

return of, 277, 278, 279, 280–81, 296

Roosevelt (T.) and, 48

Russian America, 103, 104, 106–7, 109, 110, 114, 115

shaken/stirred, 161, 162, 164, 165

Siberia, 251–52, 252

Skagway, 88

transitions, 133, 135, 136, 137, 139

“two Alaskas problem,” 77–78

westbound, Harriman Special, 14–16

Wrangell, 57, 61, 67, 72

Yakutat Bay, 180

Harriman Fjord, 197, 200, 205, 213

Harriman Glacier, 200, 206, 207, 208, 211, 212, 240

Hawaii, 35, 172, 177, 205, 237, 260, 263, 279

Haycox, Stephen, 87

Heacox, Kim, 132–33, 133–34, 136, 137, 140–41, 142, 152, 296

Heacox, Melanie, 134–35, 135–37, 142, 145, 173, 296

Healy, 238

Henry, Daniel Lee, 89

Hickel, Wally, 78, 195

Hills, Candy, 179

Hoffman, Albert, 153

Holocene epoch, 211

Homer, 29, 253

homesteading, 152, 153, 219

horses, White Pass, 99, 100, 268

Howling Valley, 127–31

Hubbard Glacier, 174–75, 209–10, 212

Hudson’s Bay Co., 67, 109, 110, 112

Hugh Miller Glacier, 125

Humboldt, Alexander von, 23

Humboldt’s Gift (Bellow), 179

Huna Tlingits, 123, 124–25, 183–84

hunting, 10, 17–18, 18n, 127, 128, 129, 130, 139n, 162, 182, 214–15, 216, 218, 219, 222, 228, 229, 250, 282–83, 283n

Hunting Trips of a Ranchman (Roosevelt), 17–18

Hussey, John, 231

Hyder, 88–89

Ibach, Muz and Joe, 152

Ice Chief, 93

ice mountain, 121–26

Icy Waves Surf Shop, Yakutat, 176–77

Iditarod, 270

Indian Jim (Tlingit), 162

Indian River Trail, 116–17

Indians of the Great Plains, 38

Industrial Revolution, 210, 211

Innocent, Bishop (Ivan Veniaminov), 111–12, 247, 261

Inside Passage, 6, 9, 11, 13, 20, 29, 40, 48, 49, 50, 60, 61, 63, 88, 89, 91, 122, 132, 161, 182, 230, 278, 294

Internal Revenue Service, 271

Inupiats, 85, 286

Inverarity, D. G., 16, 130

isostatic rebound, 133

Jackson, Sheldon, 42, 43, 44–45, 54, 60, 61, 63, 89, 107, 268, 286

Japan, 40, 168, 203, 249, 263, 264, 265, 274

John Muir Alaska Leadership School, 296

Johns Hopkins Glacier, 136, 208–9, 212

Johnson, Robert Underwood, 137–39

John (Stikine Tlingit), 90

Jones, William, 287–88, 289, 290, 291, 292, 295

Juneau, 12, 67, 69, 72–73, 74, 75, 77, 78, 79, 80, 84, 88, 89, 96, 101, 103, 108, 121, 122, 128, 132, 133, 143, 170, 177, 179, 192, 231, 234, 295

Juneau Icefield, 269

Kadachan (Chilkat chief), 90, 122, 278

Kah Lituya (story of), 169

Kake, 41

Kamchatka, 33, 112

Katmai National Park, 200, 229, 231, 232, 250, 284

kayaking, 1, 3, 70, 91, 112, 142, 143, 145, 147, 148–49, 151, 153–54, 158, 159, 296

Kayak Island, 33, 193

Keeler, Charles, 199, 214, 215, 215n, 247, 248

Kelly, Luther (“Yellowstone”), 129, 129n, 162, 215

Ketchikan, 29, 46, 47–48, 49–50, 51, 55, 56, 57, 58, 64, 69, 89, 104, 122, 173, 180, 200, 254, 269, 276, 277

KHNS Radio, 95, 163

Kiffer, Dave, 48

Kigiqtaamiuts, 286

King, Bob, 191

King Cove, 258

king crab fishing, 264–65

King Salmon, 233, 234, 235, 241, 244

Kiska Island, 263

Klein, Maury, 7, 198–99

Klondike fever, 6, 67, 73, 96–102

Klondike Gold Rush National Park, 97

Kodiak, 17, 180, 200, 213, 214–15, 216, 217, 226, 228, 243, 250, 255, 277, 281

Kodiak Island, 7, 213, 217–18, 219, 220, 221, 222, 223, 224, 225, 228, 229, 230, 231, 246, 254, 260, 295

Kodiak Island and Its Bears (Dodge), 218, 219, 220, 221

Kodiak Treks, 218, 220

Kokeok, Shelton, 290

Kukak Bay, 229, 230

Kuroshio Current, 40

Lacey, John, 283n

Lamplugh Glacier, 163, 164, 166

land’s end, 285–92

Land’s End hotel, Nikolaevsk, 253

La Pérouse, François de, 166, 170

Larsen Bay, 217, 218

Late Wisconsin glacial period, 32

Leask, Naomi, 51, 52, 53, 54, 55

“leave no trace” philosophy, 152

life among the bruins, 217–28

Lincoln, Abraham, 113, 139

Little Ice Age, 135–36, 206, 210, 212

Lituya Bay, 165–66, 167, 168, 169, 170, 232

“Living Glaciers of California” (Muir), 24

loaded for bear, 213–16

lobbyists, 77

logging, 49, 69, 70, 280, 294

London, Jack, 99

Lonely Planet, 58

longhouse, 54

Looking Far North (Goetzmann and Sloan), 77–78

Lynn Canal, 88, 89, 91, 92, 100, 103, 122

Machu Picchu, 231, 296

Malaspina Glacier, 161–62

Mallott’s General Store, Yakutat, 178

Margerie Glacier, 147

marijuana legalization, 84

Mariposa Big Tree Grove, 139

Matanuska (ferry), 56

Matanuska-Susitna Valley, 84

Matney, Mike and Lydia, 64, 65–66

Mayer, John, 256, 258

McCandless, Chris, 238, 239, 239n

McDowell, Kyle, 232, 233, 234–35, 236, 237, 238, 239, 240, 241, 242, 243, 244, 245, 253, 254

McDowell Glacier, 240–41

McGinniss, Joe, 27

McKinley, William, 49, 280, 281

McPhee, John, 80, 81

megaprojects, 84–85, 195–96

melting glaciers, 2–3, 4, 70–71, 79, 131, 133, 135–36, 146–47, 163, 164, 206, 208–9, 210, 212, 297

Mendenhall Glacier, 78

Merriam, C. Hart, 5–7, 10, 11, 13, 14, 15, 16, 18n, 48, 100, 108–9, 122, 127, 129, 130, 169, 186, 197, 214–15, 219, 246–47, 248, 249, 252, 256, 269, 280, 281, 282. See also Harriman Alaska Series, The; Harriman Expedition

methane, 211

Metlakatla, 37, 38, 39, 42, 44, 47, 51–52, 53, 54, 55, 61, 78, 105, 121, 254, 269

Mike (bartender), 245

Miller, Don, 168

Mini Mart, Metlakatla, 53, 54, 55

Molnia, Bruce, 208, 209, 210, 211–12

Monkey Wrench Gang (Abbey), 134

Montana’s Glacier National Park, 17

Moon, Sun Myung, 85

moose, 2, 70, 101, 141, 156, 281–82, 286

morning of creation, 67–71

mosquito, state bird, 154

Mount Ballyhoo, 263, 266

Mount Cerberus, 240

Mount Dewey, 63

Mount Edgecumbe, 106, 111

Mount Fairweather, 166

Mount Iliamna, 230–31

Mount Juneau, 73

Mount Katmai, 231, 232, 235, 236, 237–38, 239–40, 243

Mount Logan, 174

Mount Merriam, 148

Mount Pavlof, 258

Mount Rainier, 10

Mount St. Elias, 33, 161, 174, 178, 231

Mount St. Helens, 231

Mount Trident, 240

Muir, Daniel (John’s father), 21–22, 61

Muir, John. See also conservation; Harriman Expedition

Alexander Archipelago, 20, 267

animals had God-given rights, 185–86

background of, 6, 11, 21–24, 24n, 60, 61, 62, 122, 140, 182

blindness, circular saw, 22, 23

boy rescued by, 94

Burroughs, 21, 130, 247, 248, 293

Cape Fox Village, 278–79

Cruise of the Corwin, The, 251

death of, 293

full Muir, 145–60

Glacier Bay, 2, 3, 4, 6–7, 11, 121, 122–26, 133, 135, 142, 145–60, 164, 183–86

glacier expert, 11, 21, 24, 45, 63, 67, 68–69, 72, 93, 137, 146, 183, 184, 293, 294

Grinnell and, 137, 139, 280, 296, 297

Haines, 89, 90, 91–92

Harriman, 11, 14–15, 128, 129, 140, 181, 214, 216, 252, 283, 293

Howling Valley, 127, 129, 130

hunting despised by, 128, 139n, 162, 214, 216, 282–83, 283n

Jackson and, 61, 63, 89, 107

Johnson and, 138, 139

Klondike fever, 96

Kodiak, 213, 214, 216

“Living Glaciers of California,” 24

Louie Strentzel (wife), 62, 138, 182

Martinez, 182, 216, 280

Merriam, 11, 13, 122, 130, 197, 280, 281

natives and, 39, 251, 252

nature, God, 22, 23–24, 24n, 68, 69

Our National Parks intro, 280, 282

Prince William Sound, 197, 199

Roosevelt (T.) and, 281, 282–83, 283n

scenery of Alaska as chief asset, 294

St. Lawrence Island, 250–51

Stickeen (dog), 182, 183, 184, 185–86

Story of My Boyhood and Youth, 293

Ten Thousand Smokes, 235

Tlingits and, 2, 62, 68, 89–90, 92–94, 122, 123, 124–25, 146, 162, 175, 182, 183–84, 185, 186, 267, 278, 294, 296

Travels in Alaska, vii, 11, 13, 92, 186, 278, 294

USS Jeannette mission, 250–51

Vancouver’s maps, 35, 123, 136

Wrangell, 57, 59–60, 61–62, 63, 65, 69, 70, 71

Yosemite glacier theory, 67–68, 146

“Yosemite National Park,” 162–63

Young and, 61, 62–63, 67, 68, 92–93, 124, 126, 175, 182–83, 184, 267

Muir Glacier, 2–3, 121, 127, 128, 130, 131, 146–47, 164–65, 183

Muir Inlet, 164

Muir Point, 146

Muir Woods, 283

Muldrow Glacier, 136

Murkowski, Frank and Lisa, 53, 86, 140

MV Columbia (ferry), 71

MV Fairweather (catamaran), 104–6

MV Kennicott (ferry), 20, 25–31, 42, 46–47, 48, 56, 180

MV LeConte (ferry), 103–4

MV Lituya (ferry), 51, 254

Nanney, Dave, 90–92, 94, 95, 96, 97

Nation, The, 101

national forest vs. national park, 49

National Geographic Society, 5, 231–32

National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA), 194

National Park Service (NPS), 108–9, 116, 117, 134, 150, 152, 161, 174, 235, 238, 284

National Weather Service, 174, 177

Native Americans, 18

natives, 8, 36–39, 40–45, 55, 108–9, 162, 169, 251, 252, 267, 279–80, 284, 286. See also Alaska; Tlingits; specific other natives

nature, God, 22, 23–24, 24n, 68, 69

“Nature has a few big places beyond Man’s power to spoil” (Muir), 296

nature writing genre, 7, 10–11, 24

Nauru, 82

navy veteran returning to Alaska, 30

Nelson, George F., 37

new gold rush, 267–76

New Metlakatla, 38. See also Metlakatla

New Yorker, 170

New York Times, The, 139, 277

Niagara Falls, 73, 164

Nikolaevsk, 253

Nome, 85, 100, 173, 200, 252, 254, 267, 268–76, 285, 286, 291, 292, 295

Nome Nugget, 273

North American Indian (Curtis), 279–80

North American Plate, 171, 231

North American Whitetail, 64

Northern Commercial Company (NCC), 247, 248, 249

Northern Pacific Railroad, 16

North Pacific Fur Seal Convention, 279

Northwest Passage, 34, 35, 79, 101, 162, 199, 200, 254, 260–61, 262, 274, 295

“not in my backyard,” 69–70

Not One Drop (Ott), 192

Novarupta, 233, 238, 241, 242–43

Obama, Barack, 65, 86, 174n

ocean (warming), 133, 212, 276, 297

oil. See black gold

Oil Spill Recovery Institute, 193

Old Believers, 253

Orca, 186, 187–88, 189, 190, 193, 196, 199, 213, 249

orcas, 142, 195, 287

ore stampers, 73

Organic Act of 1884, 43–44

Ott, Riki, 190, 192

Outside/Outsider, 30, 48, 141, 165, 257

Pacific Northwest, 32, 34, 35, 54, 109, 170

Pacific Ocean, 34, 35, 36, 40, 107, 110, 168, 170, 200, 269

Pacific Plate, 171, 231

Palache, Charles, 214

Palin, Sarah, 81, 140, 174n

Panama Canal, 34

Panic of 1893, 98

Passage Canal, 204

passenger pigeons, 187, 188–89, 249

“Path to a Fiscal Solution, The” (Goldsmith), 81

Patterson Glacier, 72

Pearl Harbor attack by Japanese, 263

pelagic sealing, 248, 249

Peril Strait, 103–4, 105

permafrost, 2, 83, 209, 211, 286

Permanent Fund Division (PFD), 76–77, 81–82, 210, 295

Petroglyph Beach, 67

Philippines, 104, 129n, 168

phosphate, 82

Pinnell, Bill, 225

Pioneer Bar, Sitka, 119

Pioneer Square, Seattle, 9, 279

pipelines, 12, 43, 44, 62, 75, 76, 78, 81, 85, 192, 194, 284

plane crashes, 234

Plover Bay, 252

Point Doran, 205

point-of-view videos, 88

polar bears, 47, 120, 199, 250, 287, 291

Port Clarence, 268–69, 275

Port of Nome, 275, 276

Portugal, 32, 255, 276

Powell, John Wesley, 14

precipitation changes, 50, 133

Presbyterians, 42, 59–60, 94, 107, 278

preservationists, 280–84, 283n. See also Grinnell, G. B.; Muir, John

Pribilofs, 246, 247–49, 251, 267, 279

primary succession, 149

Prince William Sound, 7, 180, 186, 191, 192, 193, 194, 197, 198, 205, 206

Project Chariot, 85, 275

Prudhoe Bay, 75, 79, 195, 284

puffins, 143, 146

Punke, Michael, 17, 139

rainforest of Alaska, 36, 40

Reid Glacier, 152

Reid Inlet, 149

reindeer, 252, 268

relocating coastal settlements, 83

“repeat precision photography,” 208

Republicans, 86, 227

retreating. See melting glaciers

Rime of the Ancient Mariner, The (Gannett), 199

Ring of Fire, 168

River Lethe, 236, 237, 243

road system, 12–13, 30, 65, 84, 88–89, 173, 192, 195, 200, 203, 234, 262, 288, 289

Roosevelt, Theodore, 17–18, 48–49, 129n, 138–39, 280–83, 283n, 284, 293, 294, 296. See also conservation

Roosevelt, Theodore, Sr., 106–7

round-the-world railroad, 85

Rozell, Ned, 175

Russell Fjord, 175

Russell Island, 1, 2, 3, 4, 135, 153–54, 156

Russia, 6, 10, 33–34, 35, 41, 67, 213, 218, 247, 249, 252, 253, 260. See also Soviet Union

Russian America, 11, 103–15

Russian Orthodox, 106, 108, 253

salmon, 2, 40, 42, 43, 47, 50, 58, 66, 83, 104–5, 143, 156, 184, 186, 187, 188, 189, 190, 191, 195, 196, 211, 218, 221, 223, 224, 226, 228, 235, 238, 244, 249, 281, 295. See also canneries

salmonberries, 176, 221, 222

Samoans, 202–3

Samovar Cafe, Nikolaevsk, 253

San Andreas Fault, 171

Sand Point, 246, 256

San Francisco, 34, 62, 96, 99, 109, 139, 164, 170, 182, 187, 261, 269

San Francisco Chronicle, 63, 277

Sarichef Island, 200, 285, 286, 290

scenery of Alaska, 294, 296, 297

Scidmore, Eliza, 74, 107, 148, 248

Scidmore Cut, 148, 159

“science isn’t settled,” 211

sea levels, 32, 161, 178, 209, 211

sea lions, 143, 146, 250

seals, 70, 90, 92, 122, 123, 155, 162, 179, 187, 247, 248, 249, 251, 261, 279, 285, 286, 289, 290

sea otters, 33–34, 110, 146, 150, 162, 194, 261

Seattle, Washington, 6, 9, 16, 20, 25, 30, 47, 66, 96, 98, 99, 151, 161, 179, 263, 277, 279

Seattle Post-Intelligencer, 96–97

Second Continental Congress, 34

second thoughts, 51–55

secret history (natives), 40–45

self-reliant Alaskans, 65, 87, 233

senior citizens sector, growing, 85–86

Seward, William, 113–14, 172

Seward Peninsula, 269, 285

shaken/stirred, 161–72. See also earthquakes; tsunamis; volcanic eruptions

Shakes Lake, 71

Shishmaref, 200–201, 211, 285–92, 295

Shivering Hill, 165

Shumagin Islands, 246

Siberia, 32, 33, 99, 111, 112, 247, 251, 252, 253, 260, 267, 268

Sierra Club, 11, 139, 282

Sierras, 62, 68, 69, 122, 126, 282

Sinnok, Esau, 201, 286, 290

Sitka, 6, 103, 104, 105, 106, 107, 111, 112, 115, 116, 117, 119, 132, 161, 169, 170, 179, 180, 183

Skagway, 6, 30, 84, 88–89, 96–101, 102, 103, 104, 121, 122, 132, 268, 276

Sloan, Kay, 16, 77–78

smallpox, 37, 41, 44, 112, 279

Smithsonian Institution, 215, 229

Somali refugees, 258–59

sourdoughs (longtime residents), 27

Southeast Alaska, 1, 4, 39, 40, 49, 50, 78, 122, 133, 145, 168, 171

Southern Pacific Railroad, 283

South Marble Island, 146

Soviet Union, 224n, 252, 272. See also Russia

Spain, 32, 34, 109–10, 193, 215

Spencer, Ted, 203–4

spray skirt, 148

Spurr, Josiah, 236

SS Manhattan (tanker), 78–79

St. Lawrence Island, 250–51

St. Michael’s Cathedral, Sitka, 107, 108, 116

starfish, 150

Stark, Colin, 163

“Stars and Stripes Forever,” 115, 215

Stefansson, Vilhjalmur, 261

Sterling, Keir, 18n

Stern, Harry, 260

Stevens, Ted, 194, 234

Stickeen (dog), 182, 183, 184, 185–86

Stikine River, 67–68, 69, 70

Stikine Tlingits, 67, 89–90, 92, 124–25, 126, 128, 183

Story of My Boyhood and Youth, The (Muir), 293

Strentzel, Louie, 62, 138, 182

strike-slip fault, 166

subduction, 171, 231

Sugpiaqs, 187–88

summer of ‘79 (Fort Wrangell), 61–66

Sunmore (fishing boat), 167

sunrise panorama, 126, 155, 157, 296

surf capital. See Yakutat

survival of the wettest, 46–50

Sutter, John, 110

Swanson, William and Vivian, 167

Taku Tlingits, 183

Talifson, Morris, 225

taxes, 31, 75, 76, 82–83, 295

Taylor (Brady) Glacier, 183–85, 186

tea brick, 113

tectonic plates, 163, 166, 171, 231

Ted Stevens Anchorage Airport, 234

telegraph line across Alaska, 37

Teller, Edward, 85

temperature shifts, 32, 71, 83, 84, 133, 135, 136, 140–41, 209, 210, 211, 212, 275, 276, 285–86, 294, 297

Ten Thousand Smokes, 229, 231–33, 235, 236, 237, 240, 241, 243, 250, 254

Thomas Corwin (cutter), 250, 251, 252

Thoreau, Henry David, 24n, 139

Three Lucky Swedes, 268, 272

tidewater glaciers, 71, 128, 174, 199, 207, 212

tip of the iceberg. See Alaska; climate change

Tlingits, 40–42, 43, 44. See also natives; specific other Tlingits

gold rushes and, 260

Harriman and, 162

Juneau and, 73, 78

Little Ice Age and Glacier Bay, 136

Muir and, 2, 62, 68, 89–90, 92–94, 122, 123, 124–25, 146, 162, 175, 182, 183–84, 185, 186, 267, 278, 294, 296

Russian America, 109, 111, 112, 114, 115

seismicity stories, 168–69

totem poles stolen from, 277–78, 279

Toboggan Glacier, 208, 211

Tongass, 279

Tongass National Forest, 48, 49, 104, 282

totem poles, 9, 40, 116, 277–78, 279

tourism, 13, 46, 49–50, 76, 83, 85, 104, 163–64, 178, 262, 272, 275

Toyatte (Stikine Tlingit chief), 89–90, 92, 124–25, 126, 128, 183

Trans-Alaska Pipeline, 12, 62, 75, 76, 78

Transcendentalists, 24n

transitions, 132–44

Travels in Alaska (Muir), vii, 11, 13, 92, 186, 278, 294

travel writing, 8–9, 9–10

Treadwell Mine, 72–74, 96

Treaty of Cession, 41

Truffer, Martin, 122

Tsimshians, 37–39, 40, 42, 53, 54–55, 78

tsunamis, 163, 165, 168–69, 170, 171–72, 232. See also shaken/stirred

Turner, Frederick Jackson, 18

Tustumena (ferry), 200, 243, 250, 253–58, 261, 265, 295

“two Alaskas problem,” 77–78

two Johnnies, 20–24. See also Burroughs, John; Muir, John

Ukak River, 231, 232, 237

Ulrich, Howard, Howard Jr., 166–67, 168

Ulukhaktok, Canada, 261

Unalaska. See Dutch Harbor

Union Pacific Railroad, 5–6, 15, 16, 99

United States purchase, Alaska, 11, 41, 106, 110, 113–14, 219, 248, 284

University of Alaska, Anchorage, 80, 81

University of Alaska, Fairbanks, 42, 43, 169–70, 175, 201, 286

uranium mining, 297

U.S. Army, 41, 85, 275, 288

U.S. Biological Survey, 100, 214

U.S. Coast Survey, 198

U.S. Department of Agriculture, 49, 83–84

U.S. Division of Biological Survey, 5

U.S. Geological Survey (USGS), 167, 168, 208, 236

U.S. Navy, 41–42

U.S. Supreme Court, 195

USS Jeannette, 250–51

utilitarians, 280

Uyak Bay, 217, 218, 220, 221, 228

vacation vs. expedition, 9, 13

Valdez, 169

Vancouver, George, 25, 35, 123, 136, 146, 153, 197, 241

Vancouver Island, 36

Veniaminov, Ivan (Bishop Innocent), 111–12, 247, 261

Vietnam War, 179, 218

visit to Mr. Merriam, 5–7

volcanic eruptions, 111, 168, 169, 171, 230, 231, 232, 233, 234, 236, 237–38, 246, 251, 258. See also shaken/stirred

walruses, 251, 286, 287, 289, 290

warning signs, 72–74, 96

Washington, DC, 2, 5, 170, 211, 214, 277, 280, 283

Wasilla, 81

weird (Whittier), 172, 200, 202–7

welcoming people, Alaskans, 64–65, 66

West, Mike, 169–70, 170–71, 233

Weyiouannas, 285, 286, 290–91, 291–92

whales, 11, 72, 88, 142, 143, 146, 195, 251, 252, 267, 268, 275, 287

Whidbey, Joseph, 35

White, E. B., 47, 261

White Pass and Yukon Route Railroad, 99–101, 102, 145

White Pass City, 100, 110

Whitney, Josiah, 67–68

Whittier, 172, 200, 202–7

wilderness preservation vs. frontier exploitation, 77–78

Wilkins, Ben, 205–6, 207

William Duncan Memorial Church, 52

Williams, Joy, 270

williwaws, 236, 240

Wood Island, 214

World War II, 178, 203, 262, 263

World War II veteran, 47

Worster, Donald, 22

Wrangell, 6, 42, 45, 56, 57–60, 63–66, 67, 68, 69, 71, 72, 89, 90, 121, 122, 182, 183

Wrangell–St. Elias National Park, 173

XtraTufs, 50, 57, 105

Yakutat, 165, 173–80, 203, 209, 295

Yakutat Bay, 161–62, 164, 166, 173

Yancey, Eric, 69–71

Yellowstone, 5, 78, 138, 139, 173, 249, 281, 283n

Yendustucky, 92

Yosemite, 44, 67–68, 78, 138, 139, 150, 163, 282, 294

Yosemite glaciers (Muir), 67–68, 146

“Yosemite National Park” (Muir), 162–63

Young, Don, 140, 141

Young, S. Hall, 61, 62–63, 67, 68, 89, 90, 92–93, 94, 123, 124, 126, 128, 138, 146, 175, 182–83, 184, 185, 267

Yukon River, 85, 98, 269

Yupiks, 251

Zarembo Island, 59