5

Where to Eat

Don’t leave Chicago without sampling the deep-dish pizza at the original Pizzeria Uno.

Chicago has upped its culinary credentials over the past decade, with high-end spots such as Alinea and Moto on the cutting edge of the molecular gastronomy trend (raising the average check price substantially along the way). But the city’s thriving deep-dish pizza spots and casual ethnic eateries prove you don’t need to be a hard-core foodie to find culinary satisfaction here. Steakhouses continue to be a draw, as they have for decades, and comfort food remains a staple of local restaurant menus.

Best Bets

• Best Splurge: The standard-bearer for Chicago’s reinvention as a culinary leader is Alinea, where chef Grant Achatz astounds and delights professional critics and amateur foodies with his ability to transform familiar food into unexpected shapes, textures, and presentations. Dishes at Asian-inspired Moto are equally inventive—sometimes even the menu itself is edible. With its refined approach and tranquil setting, L2O epitomizes the 21st-century approach to fine dining: Though every dish looks like a miniature work of art, the overall experience is welcoming, not snooty.

• Best View: Forty stories above Chicago, Everest, in the heart of Loop, astounds with a spectacular view—and food to match. The panoramas are equally awe-inspiring at the Signature Room at the 95th, which is perched on the 95th floor of the John Hancock Center, the city’s second-tallest building. Closer to earth, diners on the patio at Greektown’s Athena get a panoramic view of the city skyline.

• Best Spot for a Romantic Dinner: Secluded North Pond is an Arts and Crafts–style retreat with a postcard-perfect setting in Lincoln Park. Not only does it boast a dramatic vista of the Gold Coast skyline, but the restaurant’s out-of-the-way locale also requires diners to begin and end their meals with an idyllic stroll through the park. For charm at a much more affordable price, try Cyrano’s Bistrot & Wine Bar, a cozy River North spot with warm, personal service and an eclectic Parisian bistro decor that will make you feel like you’ve jetted off to the romantic City of Love.

Price Categories, by Average Entree Price

Very Expensive $25–$40

Expensive $20–$30

Moderate $15–$20

Inexpensive $15 or less

• Best Cheap Eats: It’s hard to find a dining bargain downtown, but foodlife, inside the Water Tower Place shopping center, offers affordable lunch and dinner options in the heart of North Michigan Avenue’s shopping district. Yes, it’s a food court, but there are no chain fast-food stalls here: Instead you’ll find a variety of made-to-order choices, from stir fry and burgers to fresh salads and pastas. In Lincoln Park and Wicker Park, cash-strapped 20-somethings and families head to Penny’s Noodle Shop for delicious, low-priced Asian noodle dishes and soups.

• Best for Kids: Going out for deep-dish pizza is pretty much a requirement for any family visiting Chicago. Gino’s East and the original Pizzeria Uno have been around for decades, and they’re still serving up authentic versions of the city’s gooey, gut-busting specialty. For something different from the usual fast food, try Wishbone in the West Loop, a family-owned spot specializing in Southern food with a casual vibe and plenty of mix-and-match menu options for fussy eaters.

• Best American Cuisine: It’s no longer the see-and-be-seen spot it was when it first opened, but mk is actually better now that the crowds have moved on, serving up accessible twists on classic American dishes in a space that is both comfortable and sophisticated. Crofton on Wells is a true labor of love for Chef Suzy Crofton—and her devoted local fans keep coming back for more.

• Best French Cuisine: An updated take on the bistro experience, Bistronomic offers classic French dishes in a fresh, modern setting, just a few blocks from the Magnificent Mile. Convivial Mon Ami Gabi re-creates the look and feel of a Parisian cafe, steps from Lincoln Park Zoo and the lakefront.

• Best Italian Cuisine: Even without the glamorous view of the Magnificent Mile, ultra-elegant Spiaggia would draw diners with its gourmet versions of classic Italian cuisine. For a more casual atmosphere, it’s hard to beat Mia Francesca in Lincoln Park, or its sister restaurant, Francesca’s on Chestnut, just off the Magnificent Mile. Both are bustling, Americanized twists on classic trattoria dining, where the fresh, seasonal pastas are the main draw.

• Best Steakhouse: Legendary Chicago restaurateur Arnie Morton no longer prowls the dining room, but Morton’s remains the king of the city’s old-guard steakhouses, serving up gargantuan wet-aged steaks and baked potatoes. Gene & Georgetti is another blast from the past, a long-time hangout for the city’s movers and shakers that’s barely changed since it opened in 1941—and that’s exactly why the regulars like it.

ethnic Goes Upscale

While the term “ethnic restaurant” is often synonymous with casual, low-priced spots, Chicago chefs have taken world cuisine to new, fine-dining heights. At Topolobampo, chef Rick Bayless highlights the flavors of Mexico, including little-known regional specialties, with a focus on fresh, sustainably produced ingredients. Arun’s, the namesake restaurant of chef Arun Sampanthavivat, turns Thai dining into a multi-hour, multi-course experience, with a customized menu that varies with the seasons and according to diners’ preferences. Ultra-elegant Spiaggia gives Italian cuisine a gourmet upgrade, featuring luxe ingredients such as truffles and caviar.

• Best Pretheater Dinner: A longtime local favorite in the Loop, the Italian Village—three restaurants run by one family under one roof—knows how to get its clientele seated and fed in time for a show. For Chicago Symphony Orchestra audiences, Rhapsody is conveniently located in the Symphony Center building. If you’re seeing a play in Lincoln Park, stop first for tasty tapas and pitchers of sangria at Café Ba-Ba-Reeba!

The Loop

In keeping with their proximity to the towers of power, many of the restaurants in the Loop feature expense-account-style prices, but it’s still possible to dine here for less than the cost of your hotel room. The South Loop—a neighborhood just west of the lake and south of Congress Parkway—has seen a mini-boom in restaurants in the past few years, accompanying a rash of condo conversions and new construction in the area. Note: Keep in mind that several of the best downtown spots are closed on Sunday.

Very Expensive

Everest ★★★ ALSATIAN/FRENCH Towering high above the Chicago Stock Exchange, Everest is an oasis of fine-dining civility, a place where you can taste the creations of one of Chicago’s top chefs while enjoying one of the city’s top views. The decor looks like a high-end corporate dining room, but the focus here is the view, the food, and the tranquil dining experience. Chef Jean Joho draws inspiration from the earthy cuisine of his native Alsace and mixes what he calls “noble” and “simple” ingredients, such as caviar or foie gras, with potatoes or turnips. While the menu changes frequently, the salmon soufflé and cream-of-Alsace-cabbage soup with smoked sturgeon and caviar are popular appetizers; signature entrees include roasted Maine lobster in Alsace Gewürztraminer butter and ginger, and poached tenderloin of beef cooked pot-au-feu style and served with horseradish cream. Befitting a restaurant that’s been in business for a few decades, service is smooth and polished.

440 S. LaSalle St., 40th floor (at Congress Pkwy.). 312/663-8920. www.everestrestaurant.com. Reservations required. Main courses $27–$46; tasting menu $89; 3-course pretheater dinner $49. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Tues–Thurs 5:30–9pm; Fri 5:30–9:30pm; Sat 5–10pm. Complimentary valet parking. Subway/El: Brown Line to LaSalle/Van Buren, or Red Line to Adams.

Expensive

Atwood Café ★★ AMERICAN Located in the historic Hotel Burnham, this place combines a gracious, 1900-era feel with a fresh take on American comfort food. The dining room is fairly compact but comfortable, with soaring ceilings; lush velvet curtains and settees; and whimsical, colorful china and glassware. Executive chef Derek Simcik dabbles in global influences. Recent entree selections included crab cakes over an asparagus-and-lentil coleslaw; pan-seared striped bass with clams, wilted spinach, and roasted fingerling potatoes; and chicken and pork sausage with lentils and a poached egg. Desserts are a high point, from seasonal fruit cobblers to the rich banana-and-white-chocolate bread pudding. Atwood Café has a timeless quality: It’s focused on delivering good food in a grownup setting rather than chasing the latest trends. The restaurant also serves breakfast and lunch daily, as well as brunch on weekends.

1 W. Washington St. (at State St.). 312/368-1900. www.atwoodcafe.com. Main courses $14–$27 lunch; $19–$35 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 7–10am, 11:30am–3:45pm, and 5–10pm; Fri 7–10am, 11:30am–3:45pm, and 5–11pm; Sat 8–10am, 11:30am–3:45pm, and 5–11pm; Sun 8am–3pm and 5–10pm. Subway/El: Red Line to Washington.

Custom House Tavern ★★ AMERICAN Custom House’s tranquil dining room—with large windows overlooking the surrounding cityscape—is a good pick if you value conversation over crowds. The sophisticated-but-comfortable setting is reflected in the seasonal menu, which ranges from gourmet burgers to seafood to more adventurous offerings (lamb sweetbreads, anyone?). Even seemingly straightforward dishes get a lift from unexpected flavor combinations, such as the arctic char with chickpea spaetzle, Meyer lemon, and almonds; or the venison osso buco with wild rice, ancho chilies, celery root, and dark chocolate. If you’d rather go more casual, you can order at the bar, which has its own menu, featuring top-notch hamburgers and other lighter fare.

500 S. Dearborn St. (at Congress Pkwy.), in the Hotel Blake. 312/523-0200. www.customhouse.cc. Reservations recommended on weekends. Main courses $12–$24 lunch, $14–$35 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11:30am–4pm and 5–10pm; Sat noon–4pm and 5–10pm; Sun noon–4pm and 5–9pm. Subway/El: Brown Line to Library.

The Gage ★ IRISH/AMERICAN Downtown’s first gastropub feels as if it’s been here forever, thanks to an impeccable remodeling of a historic space. The owners, originally from Ireland, have created a place where the food deserves equal billing with the drinks. (This is one of the few places in the Loop that serves decent food late.) The menu leans toward appetizer-size portions, which you can order in any combination. Entrée choices run the gamut from basic roasted Amish chicken to an exotic roast saddle of elk (for which you’ll pay an eye-popping $42). The wide range of food on offer means that the Gage is a good choice for groups with different tastes. (No other place in town offers Scotch eggs, caramelized lobster, roasted bone marrow, and Alaskan halibut on the same menu.) The only disappointment—surprisingly—is the bland fish and chips. On weekends, the Gage serves brunch, including a traditional Irish breakfast of eggs, rashers, black and white puddings, sausages, and beans on toast.

24 S. Michigan Ave. (btw. Madison and Monroe sts.). 312/372-4243. www.thegagechicago.com. Reservations recommended on weekends. Main courses $10–$38 lunch, $16–$42 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11am–11pm (bar till 2am); Sat 10am–midnight (bar till 3am); Sun 10am–11pm (bar till midnight). Subway/El: Red Line to Monroe or Brown, or Orange Line to Madison.

Gioco ★ ITALIAN The South Loop was officially gentrified with the opening of this funky Italian restaurant. The cozy, lively ambience—with exposed brick, mahogany accents, an open kitchen, stacks of wine bottles, and hip music—is par for the course in other restaurant-rich neighborhoods, but it’s a welcome addition to this area. Start with one of the wood-fired pizzas, or move on to the fine selection of pastas, including ricotta and spinach tortelloni; mushroom-stuffed ravioli and a hearty pappardelle with braised wild boar. Seafood shows up in various preparations, along with filet of beef in Barolo wine sauce, or the massive Bistecca alla Fiorentina, a porterhouse steak served in a portion for two. Even if you’re loath to order tiramisu for the umpteenth time, try this heavenly version—light as air and easy on the rum. The lunch menu also has a few panini selections.

1312 S. Wabash Ave. (at 13th St.). 312/939-3870. www.gioco-chicago.com. Main courses $13–$22 lunch, $17–$35 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 11:30am–2pm and 5–10pm; Fri 11:30am–2pm and 5–11:30pm; Sat 5–11:30pm; Sun 5–10pm. Subway/El: Red Line to Roosevelt.

Mercat a la Planxa ★★ SPANISH & TAPAS South Michigan Avenue, a stretch of offices and venerable old buildings such as the Hilton Chicago and Symphony Center, isn’t exactly hip. Mercat’s bright, vivacious atmosphere has brought some much-needed culinary diversity to this rather staid neighborhood. The bi-level, loftlike space and loungey dance-music soundtrack give Mercat a younger vibe, and the eclectic drink menu sets the party mood (the Bolero, with tequila, orange liqueur, lime, and fresh avocado sounds odd but gets raves). The extensive menu includes the usual tapas favorites, from traditional charcuteria (cured meats) to bacon-wrapped dates, garlic shrimp, and Spanish omelets. The menu also gets creative with heartier entrée options such as slow-cooked pork belly in a cider glaze or curry lamb with garbanzo beans, broccolini, and grilled flatbread.

638 S. Michigan Ave. (at Balbo Dr.), in the Blackstone Hotel. 312/765-0524. www.mercatchicago.com. Reservations recommended on weekends. Tapas $6–$12; entrees $16–$26. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 11am–11pm; Fri–Sat 11am–midnight; Sun 11am–10pm. Subway/El: Red Line to Harrison.

Nine ★ AMERICAN/STEAK The sizzle isn’t all on the grill at this contemporary steakhouse. You’ll feel like you’re making a grand entrance as you step down an open staircase into the airy, white and silver dining room, with its dramatic central champagne-and-caviar bar. (The owners have opened another Nine in Las Vegas, a city this glam decor seems meant for.) For a splurge, try the dry-aged steaks, particularly the 24-ounce bone-in rib-eye and 22-ounce porterhouse. You can also sample selections from the extensive raw bar (including wallet-busting caviar). The menu wisely accommodates a variety of tastes; non-red-meat options include a generous chopped salad, roast chicken with chipotle marinade, and seafood selections such as the delicious miso-marinated black cod. If you want to keep hanging with the beautiful people after dinner, head to the sleek Ghost Bar lounge upstairs.

440 W. Randolph St. (at Canal St.). 312/575-9900. www.n9ne.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $9–$22 lunch, $21–$43 dinner. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 11:30am–1:30pm and 5:30–10pm; Fri 11:30am–1:30pm and 5–11pm; Sat 5–11pm. Subway/El: Blue, Orange, Brown, or Green line to Clark/Lake.

Park Grill ★★ AMERICAN Location, location, location—it’s what sets Park Grill apart from all the other upscale comfort-food restaurants in town. Set in the middle of Millennium Park, it makes a great stop after a late-afternoon stroll or before a summer concert at the Pritzker Music Pavilion. (You can order from a special three-course pretheater menu.) The dining room itself is simple but welcoming, with floor-to-ceiling windows that look out onto the Michigan Avenue skyline. The menu highlights American favorites, some prepared simply (American lamb chop and rotisserie chicken), others featuring a more international twist, such as house-made ravioli with ricotta, spring peas, mint, Spanish almonds, and brown butter; and black garlic risotto. Lunch selections include a good mix of sandwiches, and there’s also a kids’ menu.

11 N. Michigan Ave. (at Madison St.). 312/521-PARK (7275). www.parkgrillchicago.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $10–$21 lunch, $18–$26 dinner. AE, DC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 11am–9:30pm; Fri 11am–10:30pm; Sat 10am–10:30pm Subway/El: Red Line to Washington, or Brown, Orange, Purple, or Green line to Madison.

Petterino’s ★★ AMERICAN/STEAK Self-consciously retro, this restaurant re-creates the feeling of downtown dining in the 1940s and ’50s. Located in the Goodman Theatre building, Petterino’s is a popular pretheater option, so book a table in advance if you have to catch a show. The dimly lit dining room is decorated in dark wood with red leather booths, and the overall feel is relaxed rather than hyped up. The straightforward menu is filled with classic American big-night-out favorites: prime steaks, classic comfort food items such as chicken pot pie and Yankee pot roast, and some fresh fish selections. Among the old-time appetizers, you’ll find shrimp de jonghe, coated with garlic and bread crumbs, and an excellent tomato bisque soup. In keeping with the restaurant’s entertainment connection, some dishes are named after local celebrities—a nicely done salad of chopped mixed greens and blue cheese is named for longtime Sun-Times columnist Irv Kupcinet.

150 N. Dearborn St. (at Randolph St.). 312/422-0150. www.petterinos.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $8.95–$25 lunch, $10–$40 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon 11am–10pm; Tues–Thurs 11am–10:30pm; Fri–Sat 11am–11pm; Sun 11am–7:30pm. Subway/El: Red Line to Washington, or Brown Line to State/Lake.

Rhapsody ★★ AMERICAN This fine-dining restaurant inside Symphony Center (with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking an outdoor dining area and a small park) is a hit with the concert-going crowd, as much for the setting as for the food. In the summer, the restaurant’s outdoor garden is a mini-oasis of flowers and greenery, definitely the most charming outdoor dining spot in the Loop. (You still have to contend with the squealing wheels of El trains passing overhead.) The menu emphasizes contemporary American dining with a strong Italian influence. Recent entrees included pan-roasted Arctic char with pancetta in a balsamic glaze; grilled pork tenderloin served with parmesan-flavored polenta and topped with a braised pork ragu; and shrimp and scallop ravioli in a caviar cream sauce. The lunch menu features a few lighter choices, such as salads and panini. Preconcert dinners are Rhapsody’s specialty, so be sure to make a reservation if you plan to catch a show.

65 E. Adams St. (at Wabash Ave.). 312/786-9911. www.rhapsodychicago.com. Reservations recommended before symphony concerts. Main courses $11–$15 lunch, $19–$40 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 11:30am–2pm and 5–9pm; Fri 11:30am–2pm and 5–10pm; Sat 5–10pm. During symphony season, mid-Sept to mid-June, the restaurant is also open Sun 4:30–9pm; Thurs–Sat until 10:30pm. Subway/El: Brown, Purple, Green, or Orange line to Adams; or Red Line to Monroe or Jackson.

Russian Tea Time ★★ RUSSIAN/TEA Another spot that’s popular with Chicago Symphony Orchestra patrons and musicians, Russian Tea Time is far from being the simple cafe that its name implies. Reading through this family-owned restaurant’s extensive menu is like taking a tour through the cuisine of czarist Russia and the former Soviet republics. (For Russian neophytes, all the dishes are well described.) The atmosphere is old world and cozy, with lots of woodwork and a friendly staff. Start off a meal with potato pancakes, blini with Russian caviar, or chilled smoked sturgeon; then move on to the beef stroganoff, short rib stew, or whole roasted baby chicken. If you want to extend your meal well into the night, order one of the “vodka flights,” three 1-oz. shots of chilled, flavored vodka; the staff will even show you the authentic Russian way to down them.

77 E. Adams St. (btw. Michigan and Wabash aves.). 312/360-0000. www.russianteatime.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $15–$27 lunch, $18–$30 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 11am–9pm; Fri–Sat 11am–11pm (the restaurant sometimes closes earlier during the summer months). Tea service daily 2:30–4:30pm. Subway/El: Brown, Purple, Green, or Orange line to Adams; or Red Line to Monroe or Jackson.

South Water Kitchen ★ AMERICAN Because Loop restaurants mostly cater to office workers and business travelers, there aren’t a lot of family-friendly options other than fast food. So while South Water Kitchen’s upscale American-favorites menu doesn’t break any new culinary ground, it deserves a mention as one of the few places in the area that welcomes kids—while featuring food sophisticated enough for discerning moms and dads. The dining room evokes the spirit of an old-fashioned city saloon, and the menu goes the retro route as well. Entrees include classic meat-and-potatoes dishes such as grilled rack of lamb with a minted pea puree; pan-seared walleye with mussels and wild rice; and grilled salmon served with a sweet corn succotash; there are usually a few vegetarian options as well. The restaurant provides not only kids’ menus, but also games to keep the little ones occupied.

In the Hotel Monaco, 225 N. Wabash Ave. (at Wacker Dr.). 312/236-9300. www.southwaterkitchen.com. Main courses $9–$19 lunch, $19–$28 dinner. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 7–10:30am and 11am–3pm; Sat–Sun 7am–2:30pm; daily 5–10pm. Subway/El: Red Line to State/Lake.

Tavern at the Park ★ AMERICAN The “Park” in question is Millennium Park, although—in the interest of full disclosure—the restaurant is actually located across the street. Still, this is a convenient spot for lunch or dinner during a day of sightseeing, even if most tables don’t have much of a view (try to snag a seat by the windows, which look out over the rippling steel roof of Frank Gehry’s Pritzker Music Pavilion). The staid brown color scheme calls to mind a generic chain-hotel restaurant, but at night white linen tablecloths brighten the space a little. Still, the food itself is more sophisticated than the decor (think comfort food with flair). Menu highlights include the chicken pot pie, barbecue rotisserie chicken, and a tasty prime rib sandwich. The melt-in-your-mouth-tender braised beef short ribs in red-wine demi-glaze are a personal favorite.

130 E. Randolph St. (at Michigan Ave.). 312/552-0070. www.tavernatthepark.com. Sandwiches $12–$18; entrees $22–$37. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 11am–10pm; Fri 11am–10:30pm; Sat noon–10:30pm. Subway/El: Red Line to Washington, or Brown Line to Randolph.

312 Chicago ★ ITALIAN Although this is technically a hotel restaurant (connected to the Hotel Allegro), it has a homey-yet-sophisticated character all its own—and a clientele that goes beyond hotel guests. Downstairs, the restaurant’s dark booths and wood accents give the space a clubby feel; upstairs, the mood is brighter and more contemporary, thanks to large windows that welcome natural light. Italian-born chef Luca Corazzina focuses on fresh, seasonal ingredients and classic Italian preparations with entrees such as homemade spinach-and-ricotta tortellini in a brown butter sage sauce, roast chicken with peppers and polenta, and veal medallions with porcini mushrooms and squash purée (there are also vegetarian and vegan options). Appropriately enough for an Italian restaurant, there’s an extensive wine list. The lunch menu includes a selection of panini sandwiches. Because the restaurant caters to hotel guests, it’s also open for breakfast and Sunday brunch.

136 N. LaSalle St. (at Randolph St.). 312/696-2420. www.312chicago.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $17–$32. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 7–10am and 11am–10pm; Sat 8–11am and 4:30–10pm; Sun 8am–3pm and 4–9pm. Subway/El: Red Line to Washington.

Trattoria No. 10 ITALIAN Elegant but not pretentious, Trattoria No. 10 is a long-time, dependable favorite with downtown office workers. The burnt-orange tones, ceramic floor tiles, and gracefully arched ceilings set a dining-in-Italy mood. The house specialty is the homemade ravioli, which can be ordered as an appetizer or main course (recent fillings included butternut and acorn squash topped with walnut sauce, and homemade Italian sausage and mozzarella served with spicy arrabiata sauce). There are plenty of other worthwhile pasta dishes to choose from, such as farfalle with duck confit, asparagus, caramelized onions, and pine nuts; or the linguine with roasted eggplant, grilled tomatoes, and smoked mozzarella. You’ll also find the expected beef, veal, and seafood options, and a weekly changing risotto. For a lighter (and more affordable) meal, stop by between 5 and 7:30pm Tuesday through Friday for an all-you-can-eat buffet at the bar; $15 (with a $6 drink minimum) allows you to fill up on salads, antipasti, shrimp, and various pasta specials.

10 N. Dearborn St. (btw. Madison and Washington sts.). 312/984-1718. www.trattoriaten.com. Main courses $16–$22 lunch, $17–$28 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 11:30am–2pm and 5:30–9pm; Fri 11:30am–2pm and 5:30–10pm; Sat 5:30–10pm. Subway/El: Red Line to Madison.

Moderate

The Berghoff ★ GERMAN/AMERICAN A Chicago landmark, the Berghoff is housed in one of the first buildings constructed in the Loop after the Great Chicago Fire. Opened in 1898, it also has the honor of holding the first liquor license granted after the repeal of Prohibition in 1933. Unfortunately, much of the city’s German heritage has dissipated over the years, and even the menu has moved along with the times, adding multicultural entrees like Cajun chicken salad and mushroom panini. The good news is that you can still order Berghoff classics like Wiener schnitzel and sauerbraten, along with a side of chewy spaetzle (noodles). (For the full Berghoff experience, wash it all down with a glass of the house draft beer or root beer.) Downstairs from the main restaurant, the counter-service Berghoff Café serves up sandwiches, panini, and salads to neighborhood office workers (it’s open for lunch only on weekdays).

17 W. Adams St. (btw. State and Dearborn sts.). 312/427-3170. www.theberghoff.com. Reservations accepted. Main courses $9–$17 lunch, $14–$19 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11am–9pm; Sat 11:30am–10pm. Subway/El: Red Line to Jackson.

The Italian Village ★ ITALIAN Open since 1927 (and run by the grandchildren of the original owner), this downtown dining landmark houses three separate Italian restaurants that are popular with pre- and post-theater crowds. Each has its own menu and ambience, but the sentimental favorite is the Village, on the second floor, a charmingly retro interpretation of alfresco dining in a small Italian town, complete with a midnight-blue ceiling, twinkling “stars,” and banquettes tucked into private, cavelike rooms. The food is old-school Italian: eggplant parmigiana, a heavy fettuccine Alfredo that would send your cardiologist into fits, veal scaloppini, and even calves’ liver. The food is good rather than great, but the service is outstanding.

Downstairs from the Village, you’ll find Vivere, a trendier (and more expensive) restaurant experience with a flashy, eye-catching interior (including spiraling bronze sculptures and multicolored, fragmented mosaic floors). Pasta dishes feature upscale and exotic ingredients, from the pappardelle with wild boar and hen of the woods mushrooms to the agnolottini filled with pheasant. In the basement of the building, La Cantina Enoteca has the feel of a casual wine cellar; the specialty here is steak and seafood, although you can order basic pasta dishes as well.

71 W. Monroe St. (btw. Clark and Dearborn sts.). 312/332-7005. www.italianvillage-chicago.com. Reservations recommended (accepted for parties of 3 or more). Main courses (including salad) $9–$23 lunch, $13–$24 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 11am–midnight; Fri–Sat 11am–1am; Sun noon–midnight. Subway/El: Red Line to Monroe.

family-friendly Restaurants

One of the city’s first “theme” restaurants, Ed Debevic’s, 640 N. Wells St., at Ontario Street (312/664-1707), is a temple to America’s hometown lunch-counter culture. The burgers-and-milkshakes menu is kid-friendly, but it’s the staff shtick that makes this place memorable. The waitresses play the parts of gum-chewing toughies who make wisecracks, toss out good-natured insults, and even sit right down at your table.

If you’re in the mood for something a little more funky, Wishbone ★, which offers a kids’ menu and coloring books.

A fun breakfast-and-lunch spot in Lincoln Park, Toast (pictured below), 746 W. Webster St., at Halsted Street (773/935-5600), serves up all-American favorites (pancakes, eggs, sandwiches) and employs an age-old restaurateur’s device for keeping idle hands and minds occupied: Tables at this neighborhood spot are covered with blank canvases of butcher-block paper on which kids of all ages can doodle away with crayons. But be forewarned: This is a very popular spot for weekend brunch.

At Gino’s East ★★, the famous Chicago pizzeria, long waits can also be an issue during the prime summer tourist season. But once you get your table, the kids can let loose: Patrons are invited to scrawl all over the graffiti-strewn walls and furniture. For fun and games of the coin-operated and basement rec room variety, seek out Dave & Buster’s, 1024 N. Clark St. (312/943-5151), the Chicago location of the Dallas-based mega entertainment/dining chain.

With heaping plates of pasta served up family style, Maggiano’s, 516 N. Clark St. (312/644-7700), in River North, and Buca di Beppo, 521 N. Rush St., right off Michigan Avenue (312/396-0001), are good choices for budget-conscious families. These Italian-American restaurants (both parts of national chains) serve up huge portions of pasta and meat to be passed and shared.

Inexpensive

Heaven on Seven ★★ CAJUN & CREOLE/DINER Hidden on the seventh floor of an office building opposite Macy’s, this no-frills spot is truly an insider’s hangout. Chef/owner Jimmy Bannos’s Cajun and Creole specialties come with a cup of soup and include such Louisiana staples as red beans and rice, a catfish po’ boy sandwich, and jambalaya. If you don’t have a taste for Tabasco, the extensive coffee-shop-style menu covers all the traditional essentials: grilled-cheese sandwiches, omelets, tuna—the works. Although Heaven on Seven is usually open only for breakfast and lunch, they do serve dinner on the third Friday of the month from 5:30 to 9pm.

Heaven also has another downtown location just off the Mag Mile at 600 N. Michigan Ave. (& 312/280-7774); unlike the original location, they accept reservations and credit cards and are open for dinner. The ambience is more lively than gritty, making it a popular spot for families.

111 N. Wabash Ave. (at Washington St.), 7th floor. 312/263-6443. www.heavenonseven.com. Reservations not accepted. Sandwiches $10–$14; main courses $10–$14. No credit cards. Mon–Fri 9am–4pm; Sat 10am–3pm; 3rd Fri of each month 5:30–9pm. Subway/El: Red Line to Washington.

The West Loop

For restaurants listed in this section, see the map “Restaurants in the Loop & West Loop”.

The stretch of Randolph Street just west of the Chicago River—once known as the Market District—used to be filled with produce trucks and ware­houses that shut down tight after nightfall. In the 1990s, in an echo of New York’s Meatpacking District, a few bold restaurant pioneers moved in, bringing their super-hip clientele with them. It wasn’t long before industrial buildings began their transformation into condos, and now it seems like there’s a construction zone on every corner. Despite the upheaval, the West Loop still feels like a neighborhood in transition. It’s home to some of the city’s coolest restaurants and clubs, but not much else.

Transportation to the West Loop is easy. You can get there by bus (no. 8 or 9) or El (the Green Line has a stop at Clinton, which is within a few blocks of most restaurants listed here), but takes about 5 minutes and costs less than $10 to take a cab from Michigan Avenue. The walk from the Loop is pleasant and secure in the daytime and early evening, but it’s best to catch a cab if you’re returning to your hotel late.

Very Expensive

Blackbird ★★★ NEW AMERICAN Stylishly spare, chef Paul Kahan’s Blackbird looks like a contemporary art gallery, an appropriate image for a place that creates miniature masterpieces out of traditional American ingredients. The white, narrow room is dense with close-packed tables, and the floor-to-ceiling windows in front frame the urban landscape outside. Blackbird is fun for people who like a scene, but it can feel overcrowded and loud (I’d recommend elsewhere for a romantic dinner). Kahan is a big proponent of local, organic ingredients, so expect top-notch quality and perfectly executed creations. Entrees change seasonally, but recent dishes have included wood-grilled California sturgeon with broccoli, parsley root, and violet mustard spaetzle; and grilled pork belly with royal trumpet mushrooms, melted leeks, pickled turmeric, and chorizo broth. Desserts are similarly original and well worth a splurge; choices might include white honey parfait with coconut sponge, passion fruit, rum, and caramelized white chocolate; or a hazelnut dacquoise with espresso, crispy chicory caramel, and apricot kernel sorbet.

619 W. Randolph St. 312/715-0708. www.blackbirdrestaurant.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $10–$15 lunch, $27–$36 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11:30am–2pm and 5:30–10:30pm; Sat 5:30–11:30pm.

Moto ★★★ NEW AMERICAN Chef Homaro Cantu calls his cuisine “avant-garde with Asian influences”—but what he really wants is to take dining beyond just eating. At Moto, you experience food with all the senses, making for some of the most jaw-droppingly original dishes in town. Herbs are entwined in corkscrew-handled spoons, allowing their scent to waft toward diners as they chew, while everyday ingredients show up in unexpected forms (such as a “pizza and salad” soup). Cantu’s got a sense of humor, too—during a raw food course, he uses a “virtual aroma device” to emit a smoky scent, and sometimes the menu itself is edible. Diners have a choice of tasting menus, offering from 10 to 20 courses; a la carte is not an option. The restaurant itself has a minimalist Zen look—here, all the drama is on your plate.

945 W. Fulton Market Ave. (at Sangamon St.). 312/491-0058. www.motorestaurant.com. Reservations recommended. Prix-fixe dinners $135–$195. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Tues–Sat 5–11pm.

Next ★★★ NEW AMERICAN Grant Achatz’s restaurant Alinea is consistently rated among the best in the world; this appropriately named restaurant is the superstar chef’s game-changing next act. The gimmick—and it’s a great one—is that menus change four times per year and are based on a time and place in history, faithful, for the most part, to the ingredients and dining traditions of the times. Menus could range from “Paris, 1906” (turtle soup; roast duck; truffled egg custard) to “Kyoto, 1946” to “Hong Kong 2056.” Wisely, the culinary novelty never overshadows the delicious, perfectly cooked food. Next’s reservation process is equally revolutionary. Tickets must be purchased in advance through the website (a few “same night” walk-in tickets are sold on the restaurant’s Facebook page), with beverage, tax, and tip included in a set fee that varies depending on the day and time you dine (Wednesday at 6pm costs less than Saturday at 8pm, though the menu is exactly the same).

953 W. Fulton Market Ave. (between Morgan and Sangamon sts.) 312/226-0858. www.nextrestaurant.com. Online reservations required. Set menus from $65–$110 (wine pairings $48–$98). AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sun 5:30–9:30pm.

one sixtyblue ★★ AMERICAN If you’re looking for a dining experience that is refined without being stuffy—and you prefer reading menus that don’t require a thesaurus—then you’ll have a memorable meal here. (The restaurant’s tag line is “Simple inspiration, every day”). High ceilings, upholstered banquettes, and carpeting keep down the noise level, and there’s plenty of space between tables. The contemporary American menu highlights locally sourced ingredients (some from the restaurant’s own garden); recent offerings included rhubarb-glazed chicken with raisins, bok choy, and Persian cucumber; seared scallops with pineapple-mango chutney; and wood-grilled duck breast with roasted butternut squash and a citrus glaze. The dessert list mixes sweet and savory flavors in unexpected combinations (for example, basil ice cream and rosemary shortbread). Service is attentive but unobtrusive.

1400 W. Randolph St. (at Loomis St.). 312/850-0303. www.onesixtyblue.com. Reservations recommended on weekends. Main courses $21–$29. AE, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 5:30–9pm; Fri–Sat 5:30–10pm.

Expensive

Avec ★ MEDITERRANEAN A casual wine bar owned by chef Paul Kahan of neighboring Blackbird, Avec keeps things simple: top-quality ingredients in simple preparations that take inspiration from Italian, French, and Spanish cuisines. The menu focuses on a variety of “small plates” meant for sharing (although there are always five or six entree-size offerings as well). The long, narrow dining room, with its wood walls and floors, will strike you as either cramped or cozy. I know many people who love Avec’s convivial spirit; others find it annoy­ingly crowded and loud. Small plates include salads and appetizer-style dishes such as house-made watercress pasta with lamb confit, zucchini cream, and spring vegetables; and dates stuffed with chorizo sausage. Large plates feature seasonal ingredients and tend to be heartier (prosciutto with honeycomb, orange zest, Marcona almonds, and black peppercorn vinaigrette, for example). There’s also a good selection of specialty cheeses and—of course—an extensive European-focused wine list.

615 W. Randolph St. 312/377-2002. www.avecrestaurant.com. Reservations not accepted. Small plates $5–$13; large plates $14–$20. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 3:30pm–midnight; Fri–Sat 3:30pm–1am; Sun 3:30–11pm (bar open later every night).

Carnivale ★ LATIN AMERICAN This sprawling, Pan-Latin spot features a lively soundtrack to accompany its Central and South American–inspired food. If you want to be at the center of the action, head for the two-story central dining room, where brightly colored walls and enormous red-and-yellow lanterns complete the party atmosphere. If you prefer not to shout through your meal, request a table in one of the more intimate side rooms, or try snagging one of the tables just off the central staircase, which give you the best view of the action below. Carnivale’s menu features Latin cuisine ranging from rum-glazed pork shoulder with Puerto Rican rice and beans to Argentine-style steaks. Befitting its clubby vibe, there’s also an extensive selection of tropical drinks. Overall, the food is good rather than great; Carnivale’s main selling point is its bright, buzzy atmosphere.

702 W. Fulton St. (btw. Clinton St. and the Kennedy Expwy./I-94). 312/850-5005. www.carnivalechicago.com. Reservations recommended on weekends. Main courses $8–$15 lunch, $16–$38 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 11:30am–2:30pm and 5–10pm; Fri 11:30am–2:30pm and 5–11pm; Sat 5–11pm; Sun 5–10pm. Bar Mon–Tues till 11:30pm; Wed–Thurs till midnight; Fri–Sat till 1am; Sun till 10pm. Subway/El: Green Line to Clinton.

Girl and the Goat ★ AMERICAN Chef Stephanie Izard became a foodie celebrity when she won TV’s Top Chef in 2008, but her bustling, welcoming restaurant proves she’d rather be cooking for regular folks than burnishing her media credentials. Here, the chefs work from an open kitchen that fills one side of the dining room, and the loftlike space—with rustic wood tables and concrete floors—is a fitting backdrop for Izard’s bold flavor combinations. The menu is strictly small-plates, which are heavy on meat and fish (and yes, you’ll find goat, mixed in sausages or arrayed with cherries on top of a pizza). While adventurous diners may rise to the challenge of the Roasted Pig Face, others will take comfort in more accessible dishes such as grilled octopus with Serrano ham and braised pistachios; escargot ravioli; or the roasted cauliflower with pickled peppers and pine nuts. Desserts focus on savory-sweet combinations, such as a bittersweet chocolate popsicle paired with shiitake mushroom gelato.

809 W. Randolph St. (at Halsted St.). 312/492-6262. www.girlandthegoat.com. Reservations strongly recommended on weekends. Small plates $4–$18. AE, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 4:30–11pm; Fri–Sat 4:30–midnight.

La Sardine ★ BISTRO/FRENCH Sister to Jean-Claude Poilevey’s popular Le Bouchon (and named after a critic’s description of that tiny Bucktown bistro), this is a more spacious and gracious destination, with an open, airy feel. Well-prepared versions of bistro standards include the delicate bouillabaisse in a lobster-saffron broth; rabbit stew with mushrooms; steak frites; sensational escargots bourguignon; onion soup; and salade Lyonnaise (greens, bacon lardons, croutons, and poached egg). The dessert menu boasts traditional soufflés, with your choice of Grand Marnier or chocolate. At lunch, choose from an abbreviated menu of appetizers and salads, soups, sandwiches, and entrees. There’s also a daily $22 three-course lunch that includes soup or salad and your choice of entree and dessert.

111 N. Carpenter St. 312/421-2800. www.frenchrestaurantschicago.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $14–$18 lunch, $17–$25 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 11:30am–2:30pm and 5–10pm; Fri 11:30am–2:30pm and 5–11pm; Sat 5–11pm.

The Publican ★ BISTRO Along with Avec and Blackbird (see above), this is another of chef Paul Kahan’s creations—his take on the Belgian beer hall with a pork- and fish-focused menu. The room is simple and spare, with wooden communal tables and dozens of white globe lights hanging from the ceiling. A large selection of fresh oysters tops the menu, followed by seafood choices ranging from smoked char from southern Iceland with giardiniera (pickled vegetable relish), fingerling potatoes, and fromage blanc, to Dungeness crab with yellow Thai curry. “Aged ham” has its own section on the menu (and you can try a sampling of all of them), and “Meats” include a wide array of offerings: pork rinds, duck liver pate, boudin blanc, roasted chicken, suckling pig, Wagyu beef cheek, and flank steak. Vegetable side dishes range from radishes and pickles to spicy greens and asparagus. This place also is serious about beer: The extensive list includes selections imported from Germany, the U.K., and numerous Belgian breweries.

837 W. Fulton Market St. 312/733-9555. www.thepublicanrestaurant.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $14–$29. AE, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 3:30am–10:30pm; Fri–Sat 3:30–11:30pm; Sun 10am–2pm (brunch) and 5–9pm.

Sepia ★★★ AMERICAN The elegant dining room, housed in an 1890s print shop, has a palpable sense of history, but the real show here is the honest food prepared with integrity by chef Andrew Zimmerman. He focuses on seasonal, organic, and sustainable ingredients for his cuisine, which is refined with a hint of rusticity. The selection of house-made charcuterie epitomizes Sepia’s style: The platter is casual in spirit, but gorgeous and tasteful in execution. After those sausages, you might try an appetizer of ricotta cavatelli with snap peas, pancetta, mint, and pickled lemon zest; or crispy sweetbreads with smoked potato gnocchi and roasted mushrooms. Entrees range from vegetable moussaka with confit garlic puree, braised quince, and fried herbs; to monkfish with chorizo, judion beans, Serrano ham, clams, and piperade broth. Dessert offerings include a rich pecan and chocolate cake with butterscotch, cassis syrup, and coconut ice cream.

123 N. Jefferson St. (at Randolph St.). 312/441-1920. www.sepiachicago.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $23–$31. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11:30am–2pm; Mon–Thurs 5:15–9:30pm; Fri–Sat 5:15–10:30pm; Sun 5–10pm.

ethnic Dining near the Loop

CHINATOWN

Chicago’s Chinatown is about 20 blocks south of the Loop. The district is strung along two thoroughfares, Cermak Road and Wentworth Avenue, as far south as 24th Place. Hailing a cab from the Loop is the easiest way to get here, but you can also drive and leave your car in the validated lot near the entrance to Chinatown, or take the Orange Line of the El to the Cermak stop, a well-lit station on the edge of the Chinatown commercial district.

The spacious, fairly elegant Phoenix, 2131 S. Archer Ave. (btw. Wentworth Ave. and Cermak Rd.; 312/328-0848; www.chinatownphoenix.com), has plenty of room for big tables of family or friends to enjoy the Cantonese (and some Szechuan) cuisine. A good sign: The place attracts lots of Chinatown locals. It’s especially popular for dim sum brunch, so come early to avoid the wait. Late night, stop by the more casual Saint’s Alp Teahouse downstairs (312/842-1886), an outpost of the Hong Kong chain, which is open until at least midnight daily.

Open since 1927, Won Kow, 2237 S. Wentworth Ave. (btw. 22nd Place and Alexander St.; 312/842-7500), is the oldest continually operating restaurant in Chinatown. You can enjoy dim sum in the mezzanine-level dining room from 9am to 3pm daily. Most of the items cost around $3. Other house specialties include Mongolian chicken and duck with seafood.

Two other great spots for daily dim sum are located in Chinatown Square Mall, an open-air walking pavilion of restaurants, shops, and other businesses along Archer Avenue. Try Shiu Wah, 2162 S. Archer Ave. (312/225-8811; 8am–3pm), or Happy Chef, 2164 S. Archer Ave. (312/808-3689; 9am–4pm). They’re both great; pick the one with the shortest wait.

LITTLE ITALY

Convenient to most downtown locations, a few blocks’ stretch of Taylor Street is home to a host of time-honored, traditional, hearty Italian restaurants. If you’re staying in the Loop (an easy cab ride away), the area makes a good destination for dinner.

Regulars return for the straightforward Italian favorites livened up with some adventurous specials at Francesca’s on Taylor, 1400 W. Taylor St. (at Loomis St.; 312/829-2828; www.miafrancesca.com). Standouts include the fresh homemade pastas and the creative fish entrees. This is part of a local chain that includes the popular Mia Francesca, as well as nearby Davanti Enoteca, 1359 W. Taylor St. (312/226-5550), a cozy, buzzy small-plates spot that’s known for its truffle egg toast, bruschetta, and specialty pizzas.

Expect to wait even with a reservation at Rosebud on Taylor ★, 1500 W. Taylor St. (at Laflin St.; 312/942-1117; www.rosebudrestaurants.com), but fear not—your hunger will be satisfied. Rosebud is known for enormous helpings of pasta, most of which lean toward heavy Italian-American favorites: deep-dish lasagna and a fettuccine Alfredo that defines the word rich. I highly recommend any of the pastas served with vodka sauce. Another location is near the Mag Mile at 720 N. Rush St. (312/266-6444).

Family-owned Tuscany, 1014 W. Taylor St. (btw. Morgan and Miller sts.; 312/829-1990; www.tuscanychicago.com), has the comfortable feel of a neighborhood restaurant, unlike the city’s more fashionable Italian spots. Specialties include anything cooked on the wood-burning grill and Tuscan sausage dishes. A second location is across from Wrigley Field, at 3700 N. Clark St. (at Waveland Ave.; 773/404-7700).

GREEKTOWN

A short cab ride across the south branch of the Chicago River will take you to the city’s Greektown, a row of moderately priced and inexpensive Greek restaurants clustered on Halsted Street between Van Buren and Washington streets.

To be honest, there’s not much here to distinguish one restaurant from the other: They’re all standard Greek restaurants with similar looks and similar menus. That said, Greek Islands, 200 S. Halsted St. (at Adams St.; 312/782-9855; www.greekislands.net); Santorini, 800 W. Adams St. (at Halsted St.; 312/829-8820; www.santorinichicago.com); Parthenon, 314 S. Halsted St. (btw. Jackson and Van Buren sts.; 312/726-2407; www.theparthenon.com); and Costas, 340 S. Halsted St. (btw. Jackson and Van Buren sts.; 312/263-0767; www.costasdining.com), are all good bets for gyros, Greek salads, shish kabobs, and the classic moussaka. On warm summer nights, opt for either Athena ★, 212 S. Halsted St. (btw. Adams and Jackson sts.; 312/655-0000; www.athenarestaurantchicago.com), which has a huge outdoor seating area, or Pegasus, 130 S. Halsted St. (btw. Monroe and Adams sts.; 312/226-3377; www.pegasuschicago.com), with its rooftop patio serving drinks, appetizers, and desserts. Both have wonderful views of the Loop’s skyline. Artopolis, 306 S. Halsted St. (at Jackson St.; 312/559-9000; www.artopolischicago.com), a more recent addition to the neighborhood, is a casual option offering up Greek and Mediterranean specialties, wood-oven pizzas, breads, and French pastries, all of them tasty.

PILSEN

Just south of the Loop and convenient to McCormick Place and Chinatown, Pilsen is a colorful blend of Mexican culture, artists, and bohemians, and pricey new residential developments. The area’s nascent restaurant scene is showing signs of life, but for now, the local fare is decidedly casual.

Nuevo Leon, 1515 W. 18th St. (at Laflin St.; 312/421-1517; www.nuevoleonrestaurant.com), is a popular Mexican restaurant serving the standard offerings.

On the more bohemian side, linger over a salad, sandwich, cake, or refreshing fruit milkshake (liquado) at Café Jumping Bean, 1439 W. 18th St. (at Bishop St.; 312/455-0019; http://cafejumpingbean.org), and admire the artwork—from paintings to photographs—hanging on the walls.

Sushi Wabi ★ JAPANESE/SUSHI Artfully presented sushi and chic crowds are the order of the day at this stylish but attitude-free restaurant. The minimal-chic decor is industrial and raw, and the lighting is dark and seductive—giving the restaurant a downtown-lounge feel. Sushi connoisseurs can request the chef’s selection sashimi plate or go for specialties such as the sea-scallop roll with smelt roe, mayonnaise, avocado, and sesame seeds; the dragon roll of shrimp tempura, eel, and avocado; or the spiky, crunchy spider roll of soft-shell crab, smelt roe, mayonnaise, and pepper-vinegar sauce. Simple entrees such as seared tuna, grilled salmon, teriyaki beef, and sesame-crusted chicken breast will satisfy landlubbers who are accommodating their sushi-loving companions. Drinks include a selection of teas in cast-iron pots and both chilled and hot sakes, or try a martini with a ginger-stuffed olive.

842 W. Randolph St. 312/563-1224. www.sushiwabi.com. Reservations recommended on weekends. Main courses $12–$30. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11:30am–2pm; Mon–Tues 5–11pm; Wed–Sat 5pm–midnight; Sun 5–11pm.

Inexpensive

Wishbone ★★ BREAKFAST & BRUNCH/SOUTHERN A down-home, casual spot that inspires intense loyalty, Wishbone blends hearty, country-style choices with healthy and vegetarian items. It’s best known around town for its popular Saturday and Sunday brunch, but lunch and dinner are just as good—and less crowded. Seafood lovers will enjoy the blackened catfish or crawfish cakes; other offerings include a hearty jambalaya stew and a daily étouffée special. Entrees come with your choice of two side dishes, which range from healthy (fresh fruit) to heavy (macaroni and cheese, mashed sweet potatoes); there are also several vegetarian options. The tart Key lime pie is a worthy finish to a meal here. Wishbone has a children’s menu and actively welcomes families (even toddlers!).

There’s a newer location on the North Side, at 3300 N. Lincoln Ave. (at W. School St.; & 773/549-2663), but the original has more character.

1001 Washington St. (at Morgan St.). 312/850-2663. www.wishbonechicago.com. Reservations accepted, except for weekend brunch. Main courses $4–$14 breakfast and lunch, $6–$17 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon 7am–3pm; Tues–Thurs 7am–3:30pm and 5–9pm; Fri 7am–3pm and 5–10pm; Sat 8am–3pm and 5–10pm; Sun 8am–3pm.

A Taste of Poland

Chicago has long been a popular destination for Polish immigrants (currently, about one million Chicagoans claim Polish ancestry). It’s somewhat mystifying, then, why they haven’t made much of an impact on the city’s dining scene. There are Polish restaurants here, but they tend to be small, casual, family-run affairs in residential neighborhoods far removed from the usual tourist attractions. If you’d like to try some hearty, stick-to-your-ribs Polish food, the best-known restaurant is Red Apple (Czerwone Jabluszko), 3121 N. Milwaukee Ave. (773/588-5781; www.redapplebuffet.com). Dining here is strictly buffet, and the lineup includes Polish specialties such as pirogi (meat- or cheese-stuffed dumplings) and blintzes, as well as a huge selection of roast meats, salads, and bread (there’s even fruit, should you feel nutrient starved). Best of all is the price: $13 on weekdays and $15 on weekends for all you can eat (lunch prices are $2 less).

The Magnificent Mile & the Gold Coast

Many tourists who visit Chicago never stray far from the Magnificent Mile and the adjoining Gold Coast area. From the array of restaurants, shops, and pretty streets, it’s not hard to see why. The Gold Coast is home to some of the city’s wealthiest, most tradition-bound families, people who have been frequenting the same restaurants for years. But newer places, such as Table Fifty-Two, have carved out their own culinary niches here as well.

Very Expensive

Cape Cod Room SEAFOOD There’s nothing nouvelle about the Cape Cod Room, which is part of the draw for old-timers; the restaurant, located on the lower level of The Drake Hotel, is dimly lit and hasn’t changed much since it opened in the 1930s. Although the food is fine, I think the prices are far too steep for what you get. But that doesn’t stop Cape Cod loyalists—many of whom have been coming here for decades—from filling up the place and ordering the signature bookbinder soup, a rich seafood-and-vegetable concoction. Classic old-school offerings include the signature Dover sole (boned tableside, naturally), along with oysters Rockefeller, lobster thermidor, and a steak-and-lobster combo plate. If seafood’s not your thing, there’s also a New York strip and a filet mignon. I wouldn’t call the Cape Cod Room a good value, but as with any vintage restaurant, it has a certain timeless charm, and the people-watching can be priceless.

In The Drake Hotel, 140 E. Walton Place (at Michigan Ave.). 312/932-4615. Reservations recommended. www.thedrakehotel.com/dine/cape-cod-room. Main courses $28–$60. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 5:30–10pm. Subway/El: Red Line to Chicago.

Gibsons Bar & Steakhouse ★★ STEAK Popular with its Gold Coast neighbors, Gibsons is the steakhouse you visit when you want to take in a scene. There are sporty cars idling at the valet stand, photos of celebs and near-celebs who’ve appeared here, and overdressed denizens mingling and noshing in the bar. The dining rooms evoke a more romantic feel, from the sleek Art Deco decor to the bow-tied bartenders. But Gibsons, which marked its 20th anniversary in 2010, isn’t coasting on atmosphere alone; the top-notch steaks deserve some credit, too. This isn’t the place for a romantic dinner à deux; portions are notoriously enormous, so Gibsons is best for groups who are happy to share dishes. The namesake martinis are served in 10-ounce glasses, and the entrees are outlandishly scaled, from the six-piece shrimp cocktail so huge you swore you downed a dozen, to the turtle pie that comes with a steak knife (and could easily serve eight people).

1028 N. Rush St. (at Bellevue Place). 312/266-8999. www.gibsonssteakhouse.com. Reservations strongly recommended. Main courses $25–$80. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11am–midnight (bar open later). Subway/El: Red Line to Clark/Division.

Morton’s ★★ STEAK Morton’s is a well-known chain with more than 75 locations worldwide, but it’s Chicago born and bred, and many still consider it the king of classic, old-time steakhouses. Hidden on the lower level of an undistinguished high-rise, the place hasn’t changed its look in decades, and most of the menu has stayed the same for years, too: double filet mignon with béarnaise sauce, and classic porterhouse, New York strip, and rib-eye steaks, with the usual array of a la carte sides. Overall, Morton’s steaks are dependable rather than awe inspiring, but the place has a relaxed ambience that welcomes everyone from power-suited businessmen to 20-somethings in jeans.

Morton’s also has a Loop location at 65 E. Wacker Place, between Michigan and Wabash avenues (& 312/201-0410), with a slightly more upscale, clubby decor; unlike the original location, it’s open for lunch.

1050 N. State St. (at Rush St.). 312/266-4820. www.mortons.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $26–$44. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 5:30–11pm; Sun 5–10pm. Subway/El: Red Line to Chicago.

Spiaggia ★★★ ITALIAN Spiaggia means “beach” in Italian, and the restaurant’s name is a tribute to its spectacular view of Lake Michigan and Oak Street Beach. Generally acknowledged as the best fine-dining Italian restaurant in the city, this elegant setting is far removed from your neighborhood trattoria—so dress to impress (jackets are required for men, and jeans are a no-no). Executive chef Tony Mantuano mixes organic, locally grown produce with fresh-from-Italy ingredients to dishes such as spaghetti with squid ink, and wood-roasted pork loin with potato purée and fava beans. The homemade potato gnocchi topped with black truffles is both delicious and indulgent. You’re encouraged to order Italian style (appetizer, pasta, meat), which means the bill adds up pretty quickly. But if you’re a cheese lover, this is the place to splurge on a cheese course: They’ll roll out a cart filled with rare varieties and give you extensive descriptions of each one.

The adjacent, less formal Café Spiaggia (& 312/280-2755) is also open for lunch.

980 N. Michigan Ave. (at Oak St.). 312/280-2750. www.spiaggiarestaurant.com. Reservations strongly suggested on weekends. Main courses $34–$41; tasting menu $160. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 6–9:30pm; Fri–Sat 5:30–10:30pm. Subway/El: Red Line to Chicago.

A Spot of Tea

If you’re shopping on the Magnificent Mile and feel like having an elegant afternoon tea complete with finger sandwiches, scones, and pastries, head for the stately Palm Court at The Drake Hotel, 140 E. Walton Place (312/787-2200); the sophisticated beauty of The Lobby at The Peninsula hotel, 108 E. Superior St. (312/573-6695); the cozy Seasons Lounge of the Four Seasons Hotel, 120 E. Delaware Place (312/280-8800); or The Greenhouse in the Ritz-Carlton, 160 E. Pearson St. (312/266-1000), in the sunny 12th-floor lobby above the Water Tower Place mall. In the Loop, the appropriately named Russian Tea Time ★★, 77 E. Adams St. (312/360-0000), serves tea from 2:30 to 4:30pm daily.

Tru ★★★ NEW AMERICAN/FRENCH Offering “progressive French cuisine,” Tru gives traditional European culinary techniques a creative American twist. The dining room has the elegance of a fine-dining restaurant (and prices to match), but the overall atmosphere is welcoming rather than stiff. Dining is strictly prix fixe, from three to nine courses; choices might include Maine lobster with saffron tagliatelle, Alaskan halibut topped with bacon vinaigrette, or venison served with a cabbage tart and pear chutney. If your wallet and stomach permit, go for the nine-course Chef’s Collection ($145), featuring selections inspired by what was available at that day’s markets. For an over-the-top splurge, order the visually sensational caviar staircase (caviars and fixin’s climbing a glass spiral staircase), which goes for $280. The expansive wine list is a treat for oenophiles, with 1,200 selections. The restaurant’s comfortable lounge, where you can order dessert sampler plates, is a relaxed after-dinner hangout (and you’re welcome to stop in even if you’ve eaten elsewhere).

676 N. St. Clair St. (at Huron St.). 312/202-0001. www.trurestaurant.com. Reservations required. Prix-fixe menu $98–$145. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 6–10pm; Fri 5:30–10pm; Sat 5–11pm. Subway/El: Red Line to Chicago.

Expensive

Bistro 110 FRENCH Although it’s too large and pricey to feel like an authentic bistro, this stalwart has a bustling energy that makes dining here an invigorating experience. While other restaurants chase the latest foodie trends, Bistro 110 keeps certain dishes on the menu year after year—such as the hearty cassoulet—and that’s just how the regulars like it. The menu also includes French classics such as escargots in puff pastry, mussels in white-wine sauce, onion soup, cassoulet, and steak au poivre. The wood-roasted items, including a savory half chicken and a bountiful roast vegetable plate, are consistently good. A more casual, lighter bar menu is also available. Although the restaurant touts what it calls its “famous crème brûlée,” it’s worth saving up for the Gâteau Paradis au Chocolat, a decadent mix of chocolate cake, caramel, and toffee. On Sunday the restaurant hosts a popular brunch with live jazz music.

110 E. Pearson St. (just west of Michigan Ave.). 312/266-3110. www.bistro110restaurant.com. Main courses $20–$32. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11:30am–10pm; Sun 10:30am–9pm. Subway/El: Red Line to Chicago.

Ditka’s ★ AMERICAN/STEAK In this city, Mike Ditka is still known as “Da Coach.” Immortalized as such in the classic “Super Fans” sketch on Saturday Night Live, “Iron” Mike Ditka remains the quintessential cigar-chomping, hard-nosed Chicagoan—despite the fact that it’s been more than 2 decades since he led the Chicago Bears to victory in Super Bowl XX in 1986. Filled with dark wood, leather banquettes, and walls lined with memorabilia, this is man country, with a meat-heavy menu to match—but the food is a good step up from your average sports bar. The “Coach’s Meatloaf Stack” is served on a bed of jalapeño cornbread and drenched with barbecue sauce, while “Da Pork Chop” is surrounded by mashed sweet potatoes and Michigan cherry jus. You may just see Da Coach himself making the rounds of the dining room; he also broadcasts a radio show from the restaurant on Thursday mornings during football season.

Dessert Tour

Eli’s cheesecake is a Chicago icon—the rich, creamy cakes have been served at presidential inaugurations and numerous other high-profile events. For a behind-the-scenes peek at Chicago’s most famous dessert, you can take a tour of Eli’s Bakery on the northwest side of the city. After watching the cooking and decorating processes, you get to enjoy a full-size slice of your favorite flavor. Tours are given Monday through Friday at 1pm (although reservations aren’t necessary, call to make sure the bakery isn’t closed for periodic maintenance). The 40-minute tour costs $3 per person; special packages are available for groups. Eli’s bakery is at 6701 Forest Preserve Dr., at the corner of Montrose Avenue (800/ELI-CAKE [354-2253]; www.elischeesecake.com).

100 E. Chestnut St. (in the Tremont Hotel, btw. Michigan Ave. and Rush St.). 312/587-8989. www.ditkasrestaurants.com. Main courses $10–$17 lunch, $15–$33 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 11am–10pm; Fri–Sat 11am–11pm; Sun 10am–10pm. Subway/El: Red Line to Chicago.

The Signature Room at the 95th ★ AMERICAN While its straightforward menu won’t win any culinary awards, The Signature Room is worth a visit for its location alone. Perched on the 95th floor of the John Hancock Center, it offers amazing views of the city and lake through floor-to-ceiling windows. Yes, you’ll probably be dining with other tourists, but it’s a quintessential Chicago experience. While dinner is relatively pricey, lunch is a bargain for a white-tablecloth restaurant in this area (especially the $20 all-you-can-eat buffet), and it also tends to be relatively uncrowded. Lunch menu options include upscale sandwiches, salads, and pastas; dinner includes classics like roast rack of lamb, bacon-wrapped pork tenderloin, and surf and turf. The Sunday buffet brunch is a splurge, at $45 per person, but includes all the usual breakfast favorites, as well as antipasti, a raw bar, and fresh caviar.

875 N. Michigan Ave. (in the John Hancock Center, btw. Chestnut and Delaware sts.). 312/787-9596. www.signatureroom.com. Reservations accepted. Main courses $10–$20 lunch, $27–$40 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 11am–2:30pm and 5–10pm; Fri–Sat 11am–2:30pm and 5–11pm; Sun 10am–2pm and 5–10pm. Subway/El: Red Line to Chicago.

farmers’ Markets

If you’re lucky enough to be here during good weather, celebrate by enjoying at least one picnic. Peruse the city’s farmers’ markets and then carry your lunch off to Grant Park or a spot along the lake front.

The city-sponsored farmers’ markets operate from late May through October. Two locations in the Loop are easy for visitors to get to: Daley Plaza (at Washington and Dearborn sts.; open on Thurs) and Federal Plaza (at Adams and Dearborn sts.; open on Tues), both open from 7am to 3pm. Both are good places to pick up fresh fruit or bakery treats. For more information, call the Mayor’s Office of Special Events at 312/744-3315. At the south end of Lincoln Park (btw. Clark St. and Stockton Dr.), local chefs and civilian foodies head to the Green City Market (773/880-1266; greencitymarket.org) for seasonal produce. Pick up some fresh bread, locally produced cheese, and in-season fruit, and enjoy an alfresco meal; Lincoln Park Zoo is just steps away. The market is open Wednesdays and Saturdays from 7am to 1pm, from mid-May through October, and often features cooking demonstrations by chefs from Chicago restaurants.

Table Fifty-Two ★ AMERICAN How does a modest restaurant specializing in non-trendy Southern food become a local favorite? Call it the Oprah effect. The executive chef of this unassuming, cozy spot is Art Smith, Oprah’s former personal chef, and his association with the talk-show titan was enough to make Table Fifty-Two a hot spot the minute it opened. The fact that it’s tiny—only 23 tables on two floors—has kept up the demand. You’ll get a taste of Smith’s Southern heritage as soon as you’re seated, when the server brings out warm goat-cheese biscuits and deviled eggs. Appetizers and entrees include upscale versions of down-home classics, such as shrimp with stone-ground grits; pork chops with chorizo crumble, and fried chicken with garlic mashed potatoes (available only for Sun and Mon dinner). The prices are high for what’s essentially comfort food, but devoted regulars find Table Fifty-Two’s charm worth the price.

52 W. Elm St. (at Division St.). 312/573-4000. www.tablefifty-two.com. Main courses $24–$39 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 5–10pm; Sun 11am–3pm and 4–9pm. Subway/El: Red Line to Clark/Division.

Moderate

Bistronomic ★★ BISTRO/FRENCH The vision of chef and Paris native Martial Noguier, this sophisticated yet unpretentious bistro reinvents traditional French dishes for modern American tastes. Small and medium plates include standouts such as fish soup with mussels, tarragon, and saffron; and oxtail ravioli with celery root puree, Parmesan cheese, and a red wine sauce. Entrees vary from simple but perfectly cooked roast chicken to Lake Superior whitefish to beef au poivre. In true French fashion, there are also cheese flights and single servings of cheese, along with a selection of artisanal charcuterie. Wine is reasonable, but the list also has some pricey depth for oenophiles. At the far end of the stylish red-hued dining room, tucked behind a small bar, is a little room that looks out into the restaurant: Try to snag a seat here for a fun and intimate dining experience. You’ll feel like you’re getting away with something.

840 N. Wabash Ave. (at Pearson St.). 312/266-4820. www.bistronomic.net. Reservations recommended. Main courses $17–$26. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 5–10pm; Fri–Sat 5–11pm. Subway/El: Red Line to Chicago.

Chicago q ★★ BARBECUE With a kitchen led by ’cue queen Lee Ann Whippen and a dining room that is a little bit roadhouse, a little bit refined dining room, Chicago q is comfortable, pleasant, and serious about barbecue. Meats include baby back ribs, chicken, and Kobe beef brisket, among others. But even before those delicious, heaping, main courses arrive—perhaps with sides such as braised greens or poblano cheddar cornbread—there are the complimentary pig powder potato chips and bread and butter pickles, house specialties so tasty they will have you wondering why the restaurant doesn’t charge for them. Portions are large, so try to refrain from eating all those nibbles before your food arrives. The wine and beer lists are varied, but bourbon lovers have special reason to rejoice at the selection available here.

1160 N. Dearborn St. (at Division St.). 312/642-1160. www.chicagoqrestaurant.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $11–$28. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 11am–10:30pm; Fri–Sat 11am–2am (kitchen open until 1am). Subway/El: Red Line to Clark/Division.

Le Colonial ★★ FRENCH/VIETNAMESE Le Colonial has one of the loveliest dining rooms in the city—and the second-floor lounge is a sultry, seductive destination for cocktails. An escapist’s paradise, the restaurant is a cleverly crafted re-creation of 1920s Saigon, with bamboo shutters, rattan chairs, potted palms and banana trees, and ceiling fans. While the ambience certainly merits a visit, the flavorful cuisine is a draw on its own. Start with the hearty oxtail soup or the light and refreshing beef-and-watercress salad. Entrees include grilled lime-glazed sea scallops with garlic noodle salad; sautéed jumbo shrimp in curried coconut sauce; and roasted chicken with lemon-grass-and-lime dipping sauce. On Sundays, try tasting-size portions of popular menus items at both lunch and dinner. Le Colonial offers outdoor seating in warm weather; try to reserve one of the coveted romantic mezzanine terrace tables, which look out over the bustling street below.

937 N. Rush St. (just south of Oak St.). 312/255-0088. www.lecolonialchicago.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $15–$22 lunch, $18–$29 dinner. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Wed 11:30am–2:30pm and 5–11pm; Thurs–Sat 11:30am–2:30pm and 5–midnight; Sun 11:30am–2:30pm and 5–10pm. Subway/El: Red Line to Chicago.

The Purple Pig ★★ MEDITERRANEAN The slogan at this open-kitchen restaurant/wine bar is “Cheese, Swine, and Wine.” Chef Jimmy Bannos, Jr., takes all three very seriously. Lively and noisy, The Purple Pig has the attitude of a casual bistro, but the menu is aimed at serious food lovers. You can graze on small to medium-sized portions of milk-braised pork shoulder with mashed potatoes; grilled prawns; and Wagyu sirloin tip with bone marrow vinaigrette, or head into more adventurous territory, such as the pig’s tails braised in balsamic vinegar, or pig’s ear with crispy kale, marinated cherry peppers, and a fried egg. (Believe it or not, those dishes often sell out.) There is also a large selection of cheeses and cured meats, and dozens of unique beers and wines by the glass. For dessert, try the butterscotch pudding or the Sicilian Iris, a fried brioche bun filled with ricotta cheese and chocolate chips—basically, an insanely delicious doughnut.

500 N. Michigan Ave. (btw. the Chicago River and Ohio St.). 312/464-1PIG (464-1744). www.thepurplepigchicago.com. Reservations not accepted. Most dishes $8–$17. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 11:30am–midnight; Fri-Sat 11:30am–1am (bar open till 2am). Subway/El: Red Line to Grand.

Kitchens Up Close

Serious food fans can get a firsthand look at how some of the city’s culinary stars work by booking a seat at a chef’s table. You’ll get a personal tour of the kitchen, a special selection of dishes, and—best of all—a front-row seat for dinner-hour drama. At Tru ★★★ (312/202-0001) and Next ★★★ (312/226-0858), four to six people can sit in glass-enclosed rooms just off the kitchen, where they can check out the scene without feeling the heat. The chef’s table at Charlie Trotter’s ★★★ (773/248-6228) seats four to six right in the kitchen, so diners can catch Trotter’s legendary perfectionism up close. At Zealous ★★★ (312/475-9112), the chef’s table seats 8 to 10 and is in the main dining room—but bamboo trees surround it, so other diners won’t get jealous when chef Michael Taus stops by for some one-on-one taste tests.

Chef’s tables don’t come cheap (up to $225 per person), but they’re a special splurge for die-hard foodies. Just remember to reserve well in advance because these tables book fast.

Shaw’s Crab House ★★ SEAFOOD If you ask average Chicagoans where to go for seafood, chances are, they’ll point you here. The dining room—with its red leather banquettes, 1930s-era soundtrack, and white-jacketed waitstaff—has a dimly lit, retro feel, but the extensive menu isn’t stuck in the past; choices run the gamut from fried calamari to crab cakes, to sushi. Fresh, seasonal seafood (flown in daily) is the main draw, although you can also indulge in surf-and-turf combinations. Overall, you won’t go wrong ordering one of the classics: Alaskan king crab, Texas stone-crab claws, or fresh oysters, which you can select according to their provenance (Nova Scotia, British Columbia, and so on). The adjacent Oyster Bar offers a more casual menu and has live music on Sunday, Tuesday, and Thursday nights. The restaurant’s Sunday brunch is an excellent weekend option for seafood lovers and includes an indulgent dessert selection.

21 E. Hubbard St. (btw. State St. and Wabash Ave.). 312/527-2722. www.shawscrabhouse.com. Reservations accepted only for the main dining room. Main courses $14–$35. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 11:30am–2pm and 5:30–10pm; Fri 11:30am–2pm and 5–11pm; Sat 5–11pm; Sun 10:30am–1:30pm and 5–10pm. Subway/El: Red Line to Grand.

Inexpensive

Billy Goat Tavern ★ FAST FOOD Viewers of the original Saturday Night Live will remember the classic routine “Cheezeborger, Cheezeborger,” with John Belushi as a crabby Greek short-order cook. The comic got his material from the Billy Goat Tavern, located under North Michigan Avenue near the bridge that leads to the Loop (walk down the steps across the street from the Chicago Tribune building). This is a classic dive: dark, seedy, and no-frills. But unlike the Saturday Night Live skit, the guys behind the counter are friendly and this hangout for local newspaper reporters and writers has an insider feel. The menu is pretty basic, but, yes, the cheeseburgers are pretty good. After work, this is a good place to watch a game, chitchat at the bar, and down a few beers.

For the same “cheezeborgers” in less grungy (and more kid-friendly) surroundings, head to the Billy Goat’s outpost on Navy Pier (& 312/670-8789)

Only in chicago

There is great food to be had in Chicago, but the two dishes that the city truly calls its own are pizza and hot dogs. It may not be haute cuisine, but I promise you've never had anything quite like the city's spin on either of these indulgences.

We have three pizza styles in Chicago: Chicago style, also known as deep-dish, which is thick-crusted and often demands a knife and fork; stuffed, which is similar to a pie, with a crust on both top and bottom; and thin crust.

Three of the best places to try the classic Chicago deep-dish are Pizzeria Uno ★, Pizzeria Due, and Gino’s East ★, 439 N. Wells St. (at Hubbard St.; 312/828-9800), bakes both deep-dish and thin-crust pizza and even has a low-fat-cheese option. Edwardo’s is a local pizza chain that serves all three varieties, but with a wheat crust and all-natural ingredients (spinach pizza is the specialty here); locations are in the Gold Coast at 1212 N. Dearborn St. (at Division St.; 312/337-4490), in the South Loop at 521 S. Dearborn St. (btw. Congress Pkwy. and Harrison St.; 312/939-3366), and in Lincoln Park at 2622 N. Halsted St. (at Wrightwood Ave.; 773/871-3400). Another popular chain—known for its stuffed pizza—is Giordano’s, with downtown locations off the Magnificent Mile at 730 N. Rush St. (at Superior St.; 312/951-0747), and at the Prudential Plaza, 135 E. Lake St. (just east of Michigan Ave.; 312/616-1200).

For a unique twist on the deep-dish phenomenon, head to Chicago Pizza & Oven Grinder, 2121 N. Clark St. (btw. Webster and Dickens aves.; 773/248-2570), a few blocks from Lincoln Park Zoo. Here the “pizza potpie” is baked in a bowl and then turned over when served. This neighborhood spot stays popular year after year, so plan on showing up early for dinner to avoid a long wait.

The classic Chicago hot dog includes a frankfurter by Vienna Beef (a local food processor and hallowed institution), heaps of chopped onions and green relish, a slather of yellow mustard, pickle spears, fresh tomato wedges, a dash of celery salt, and, for good measure, two or three “sport” peppers, those thumb-shaped holy terrors that turn your mouth into its own bonfire.

Chicago is home to many standout hot-dog spots, but one, Hot Doug’s, 3324 N. California Ave. (at Roscoe St.; 773/279-9550), takes encased meats to a new level, featuring several gourmet sausages on a bun every day except Sunday (plan on standing in line no matter which day you show up—and it’s always worth it). Hot Doug’s also serves a great classic Chicago dog just like many other stands in town, including Gold Coast Dogs, 159 N. Wabash Ave. (at Randolph St.; 312/917-1677), in the Loop just a block from Michigan Avenue. Portillo’s ★★ is another local chain that specializes in hot dogs but also serves tasty pastas and salads. Murphy’s Red Hots, 1211 W. Belmont Ave. (at Racine Ave.; 773/935-2882), is a neighborhood spot not too far from Wrigley Field; while The Wieners Circle, in Lincoln Park at 2622 N. Clark St. (btw. Wrightwood Ave. and Drummond Place; 773/477-7444), is a late-night favorite where rude order-takers are part of the shtick.

If you’ve got a car, head up to Superdawg Drive-In, 6363 N. Milwaukee Ave. (at Devon Ave.; 773/763-0660), on the northwest side of the city (look for the giant hot dogs dressed as Tarzan and Jane on the roof). This classic 1950s-style flashback has been run by the same family for three generations, and, yes, they still have carhops who bring out your order.

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430 N. Michigan Ave. 312/222-1525. www.billygoattavern.com. Reservations not accepted. Menu items $3–$6. No credit cards. Mon–Fri 6am–2am; Sat 10am–2am; Sun 11am–2am. Subway/El: Red Line to Chicago.

foodlife ★★ FAST FOOD Taking the standard food court up a few notches, foodlife consists of 14 kiosks offering a wide variety of freshly made foods on the mezzanine of Water Tower Place mall. A hostess seats you and gives you an electronic card, and then it’s up to you to stroll around and get whatever food strikes your fancy (each purchase is recorded on your card, and you pay on the way out). The beauty of a food court, of course, is that it offers something for everybody, making this a great stop for families with picky eaters. At foodlife, diners can choose from burgers, pizza, south-of-the-border dishes, rotisserie items, sushi, an assortment of stir fry and other Asian fare, and veggie-oriented, low-fat offerings. A lunch or snack is basically inexpensive, but the payment method makes it easy to build up a big tab while holding a personal taste-testing session at each kiosk if you’re not careful.

In Water Tower Place, 835 N. Michigan Ave. 312/335-3663. www.foodlifechicago.com. Reservations not accepted. Most items $8–$15. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Breakfast kiosk daily 8–11:30am. All other kiosks Mon–Thurs 11:30am–8:30pm; Fri–Sat 11:30am–9pm; Sun 11:30am–8pm. Subway/El: Red Line to Chicago.

Oak Tree ★ AMERICAN Though it’s located on the sixth floor of the ritzy 900 N. Michigan indoor mall (home of Bloomingdale’s, Gucci, and others), Oak Tree isn’t exactly high profile. But it’s popular with the ladies-who-lunch crowd and local office workers, and makes a convenient stop during a day of downtown shopping. Airy and boutique-hotel sleek, it’s a relaxing retreat from the Michigan Avenue madness outside. If you can, snag a table along the windows that overlook the John Hancock Center. The menu focuses on a wide selection of salads and sandwiches. On a cold day, try a duck breast sandwich with mango chutney or a good old-fashioned patty melt with fries. You can also order breakfast all day. The only downside for family travelers: There’s no kids’ menu.

900 N. Michigan Ave. (at Delaware Place), 6th floor. 312/751-1988. www.shop900.com/shop/oak-tree-restaurant. Reservations not accepted. Main courses $8–$16. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 7:30am–4pm. Subway/El: Red Line to Chicago.

River North

For restaurants listed in this section, see the map “Restaurants in the Magnificent Mile, Gold Coast & River North.

River North, the area north of the Loop and west of Michigan Avenue, is home to the city’s most concentrated cluster of art galleries and a something-for-everyone array of restaurants—from fast food and themed restaurants to chains and some of our trendiest dining destinations. Whether you seek a quick dog or burger, contemporary American fine dining, or world-class Mexican fare, River North has it all—within easy walking distance of many downtown hotels.

Very Expensive

Crofton on Wells ★★ AMERICAN This unassuming restaurant is the perfect reflection of chef-owner Suzy Crofton, a place that values substance over style. Though the food is considerably more ambitious than your average neighborhood restaurant, it’s served in a laid-back setting. The menu is based on seasonally available ingredients: You might start with a chilled cucumber-and-Vidalia-onion soup in the spring, or a roasted squash soup in colder weather. Entree selections run the gamut from seafood to venison and beef; Crofton’s signature dish is the pork tenderloin garnished with her smoked apple chutney (you can even buy a jar of the chutney to go). Other chefs may wow the food critics with their spectacular presentations, but Crofton has built her reputation with accessible dishes that attract a low-key crowd of satisfied regulars.

535 N. Wells St. (btw. Grand Ave. and Ohio St.). 312/755-1790. www.croftononwells.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $29–$39. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 5–10pm. Subway/El: Brown Line to Merchandise Mart.

Chicago Treats

Deep-dish pizza may be Chicago’s culinary claim to fame, but the city has added to the national waistline in other ways. Twinkies and Wonder Bread were invented here, Chicago businessman James L. Kraft created the first processed cheese, and Oscar Mayer got his start as a butcher in the Old Town neighborhood.

Graham Elliot ★★ AMERICAN The chef/owner of this self-named restaurant has the talent of a gourmet chef, but the soul of a rock-‘n-roll party boy. The dining room is warm and welcoming, with large windows and exposed-brick walls. Though pop-rock plays in the background and the servers wear jeans, the prices are in line with far more elegant spots, making it more of a special-occasion destination than a regular-guy hangout. Entrees might be inspired by down-home American classics (sea scallop almondine with caper berry, Meyer lemon, smoked almonds, and brown butter) or showcase a new twist on the standard meat-and-starch combo (Wagyu flat-iron steak with truffled sunchokes, hydroponic watercress, charred cioppolini, and shaved pecorino cheese). Elliot has also been known to toss in far less haute ingredients (such as risotto with crushed Cheez-Its), in a humorous nod to American snack habits.

217 W. Huron St. (btw. Wells and Franklin sts.). 312/624-9975. www.grahamelliot.com. Main courses $28–$32; tasting menu $75–$125. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 5–10pm. Subway/El: Brown Line to Chicago.

mk ★★★ AMERICAN Even though foodies rank it one of the best American restaurants in the city, mk doesn’t flaunt its pedigree. The loftlike dining room is as understated as the lowercase initials that give the restaurant its name. Chef/owner Michael Kornick keeps the menu focused on a straightforward seasonal mix of meat and seafood: Menu selections might range from substantial (grilled veal porterhouse with broccolini and cognac-green peppercorn sauce) to lighter offerings, such as grilled salmon with a Chinese mustard glaze, bok choy, shiitake mushrooms, and ginger-soy vinaigrette. The presentations are tasteful rather than dazzling; Kornick wants you to concentrate on the food, and that’s just what the chic, mixed-age crowd does. Service is disciplined yet agreeable, and fine table appointments signal this restaurant’s commitment to quality. As for dessert, the Cake & Shake (buttermilk chocolate cake, milk chocolate mousse, bittersweet chocolate pave, chocolate meringue, and buttercream, with a vanilla milkshake) is worth the calories.

868 N. Franklin St. (1 block north of Chicago Ave.). 312/482-9179. www.mkchicago.com. Reservations highly recommended. Main courses $27–$46. AE, DC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 5:30–9:30pm; Fri–Sat 5:30–10pm. Subway/El: Brown Line to Chicago.

Naha ★★ AMERICAN Chef Carrie Nahabedian (who used her nickname for the restaurant’s name) did time at four-star hotels in California before returning to her hometown, and a West Coast influence is clear in her use of organic, seasonal ingredients. But she adds Mediterranean flavors to the mix, including dishes that reflect her Armenian heritage. Entrees might include roasted squab and duck liver with mushrooms, young turnips, crisp potatoes, and red cabbage; or Great Lakes whitefish with butter-poached blue crab, hen of the woods mushrooms, caramelized cauliflower, Swiss chard, grits, and lobster–red wine jus. The dessert menu features creative combinations, such as coconut, pineapple, and white chocolate with frozen Greek yogurt and coriander.

The front lounge offers a special menu of meze (Mediterranean “small dishes”), including feta cheese phyllo triangles made from the chef’s mother’s recipe.

500 N. Clark St. (at Illinois St.). 312/321-6242. www.naha-chicago.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $16–$25 lunch, $32–$48 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 11:30am–2pm and 5:30–9:30pm; Fri 11:30am–2pm and 5:30–10pm; Sat 5:30–10pm. Bar open later every night. Subway/El: Red Line to Grand.

Zealous ★★★ NEW AMERICAN One of the most stylish contemporary restaurants in town, Zealous also has one of the most eclectic menus. Chef Michael Taus’s cooking combines American dishes with the subtle complexity of Chinese, Vietnamese, Korean, and Indian flavors. You can order a la carte or from one of three tasting menus; recent entrees have ranged from Asian inspired (sesame-crusted Chilean sea bass with rice noodles and red coconut–curry sauce) to heartland hearty (grilled beef filet with mushroom-potato lasagna and truffle reduction). Zealous is especially welcoming to non–meat eaters; there is always a five-course vegetarian menu available, and the kitchen will prepare vegan entrees on request. The dining room is bright and airy (thanks to a central skylight), and the purple chairs, green banquettes, and silver accents add to the vibrant ambience. The 6,000-bottle wine collection and glass-enclosed wine cellar show that Zealous takes its libations just as seriously as it takes its food.

419 W. Superior St. 312/475-9112. www.zealousrestaurant.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $19–$39; tasting menu $75–$105. AE, DISC, MC, V. Tues–Sat 5–11pm. Subway/El: Brown Line to Chicago.

culinary Mash-ups

Some Chicago chefs find inspiration in the clash of civilizations, combining elements of seemingly unrelated cuisines to create a new, flavorful experience. At Vermilion the similarities between Latin American and Indian cooking are highlighted, resulting in dishes such as a tandoori skirt steak with fried plantain chips or shrimp paella served with flattened Indian rice. SushiSamba Rio pairs South American flavors with Asian preparations, producing odd-sounding-but-delicious creations such as a salmon-and-jalapeño sushi roll or lobster taquitos garnished with lemongrass. At Yoshi’s Café in Lincoln Park, the menu reflects both chef Yoshi Katsumura’s Japanese heritage and his traditional French culinary training, with entrees such as panko-breaded pork loin, smoked salmon salad with Asian pear, and crab cakes paired with wasabi.

Expensive

Bin 36 ★★ AMERICAN In one lofty, airy space, this River North hot spot combines wine, food, and retail in a successful, wine-centric concept—you don’t have to be a wine snob to enjoy yourself. You can swirl, sniff, and snack at one of two zinc-topped bars, sample lighter fare or artisanal cheeses; or settle down in the main restaurant for a full meal of American bistro-style dishes. Dishes range from seafood and pastas to heavier dishes such as slow-roasted pork loin or lobster shepherd’s pie. For each entree, the menu includes two or three suggested wines, all available by the glass. You can also order creative “wine flights,” small glasses organized around a theme (Italian, Australian, and so on). The food–wine pairings continue on the dessert menu; a recommended sherry along with a slice of gingerbread-pear cake here one evening was a delight.

339 N. Dearborn St. 312/755-9463. www.bin36.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $10–$17 lunch, $11–$32 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Wed 11am–11pm; Thurs 11am–midnight; Fri–Sat 11am–1am; Sun noon–10pm. Subway/El: Red Line to Grand.

Chicago Cut Steakhouse ★★ STEAK Name any type of steakhouse and Chicago has one: classic, trendy, and everything in between. But when Chicago Cut opened in the fall of 2010, it was a restaurant that people spoke of simply as a great restaurant—not just a great new steakhouse. The place delights on every level, from its USDA prime cuts of beef (dry-aged in-house), to pork and lamb chops, to fresh seafood options, including oysters and other shellfish. Appetizers range from light sushi to decadent foie gras. The restaurant also has an extensive wine list presented on iPads: You browse through the options by flicking your finger across the lighted screen. This is a loud, energetic place with two gigantic walls of windows overlooking the buildings along the Chicago River. Every few minutes an El train slowly crosses the River reminding you exactly where you are—in downtown Chicago eating a great steak.

300 N. LaSalle St. (at the Chicago River). 312/329-1800. www.chicagocutsteakhouse.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $12–$55. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 7am–2am; Sat–Sun 10am–2am. Subway/El: Red Line to Grand; Brown Line to Merchandise Mart.

Frontera Grill, Topolobampo & Xoco ★★★ MEXICAN Owners Rick and Deann Bayless are widely credited with bringing authentic Mexican regional cuisine to a wider audience, emphasizing the importance of fresh, organic ingredients supplied by local artisanal farmers. Within one River North building, they oversee three separate establishments, each with its own look and attitude: the casual Frontera Grill (plain wood tables, terra-cotta tile floor), the fine-dining Topolobampo (white linen tablecloths, a more hushed environment), and the super-casual Xoco (pronounced SHO-ko), where you order from a counter and sit at cramped communal tables.

At Frontera, it’s worth starting with whatever soup is offered, as Bayless does them extremely well. The ever-changing entree list might include ancho-rubbed pork loin in a black bean sauce flavored with smoky salsa negra, or adobo-marinated Gulf shrimp in guajillo-mango sauce; you can also get delicious, upscale tacos and enchiladas. At adjacent Topolobampo, both the ingredients and presentation are more upscale (think lobster and scallops roasted in an aromatic mojo sauce of fermented white and black garlic, chipotle peppers, and lime juice).

Next door at Xoco, Bayless turns out sandwiches (tortas) and made-to-order hot chocolates (soups are also available after 3pm). Expect to stand in line at both Xoco and Frontera during prime dining hours, but you can always do what the locals do: Put your name on the list and order a few margaritas in the large, lively bar area.

For an affordable taste of Frontera downtown, stop by Frontera Fresco, a counter-service lunch spot on the seventh floor of Macy’s, 111 N. State St. (& 312/781-4884). You can sample authentic Mexican tortas, quesadillas, and tamales, all priced less than $8; it’s open Monday through Friday from 11am to 3pm.

445 N. Clark St. (btw. Illinois and Hubbard sts.). 312/661-1434. www.fronterakitchens.com. Reservations strongly recommended for Topolobampo; limited reservations accepted at Frontera Grill. Frontera Grill main courses $17–$29. Topolobampo main courses $25–$39; chef’s 5-course tasting menu $75 ($120 with wine pairings). Xoco sandwiches and soups $8.50–$13. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Frontera Grill Tues–Fri 11:30am–2:30pm; Sat 10:30am–2pm; Tues 5:20–10pm; Wed–Thurs 5–10pm; Fri–Sat 5–11pm. Topolobampo Tues 11:45am–2pm; Wed–Fri 11:30am–2pm; Tues–Thurs 5:30–9:30pm; Fri–Sat 5:30–10:30pm. Xoco Tues–Thurs 8am–9pm; Fri–Sat 8am–10pm. Subway/El: Red Line to Grand.

Gene & Georgetti ★ ITALIAN/STEAK A classic vestige of old Chicago, Gene & Georgetti is a family-run steakhouse that’s been serving up steak and Italian fare in a wood-frame house in the shadow of the El since 1941. The restaurant is dark and clubby, and the (exclusively male) waiters seem to have worked here for decades—and they no doubt have been serving some of the same patrons all that time. Gene & Georgetti has a popular following, so expect a wait at the bar if you show up on the weekend without a reservation. Although the place is best known for steaks, classic Italian-American specialties are also an essential part of the menu (mostaccioli, veal parmigiana, and the like). Fans of old-time restaurants will find plenty of local character—some of the regulars have been coming here for half a century.

500 N. Franklin St. (at Illinois St.). 312/527-3718. www.geneandgeorgetti.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $13–$28 lunch, $20–$46 dinner. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 11am–11pm; Fri–Sat 11am–midnight. Subway/El: Brown Line to Merchandise Mart.

Harry Caray’s Italian Steakhouse AMERICAN/ITALIAN/STEAK A shrine to the legendary Cubs play-by-play announcer, this landmark building is a repository for Harry’s staggering collection of baseball memorabilia. The main dining room, with its high tin ceilings and brick walls, has a certain retro charm, and the food is better than you’d expect from a celebrity restaurant. The menu is a greatest hits list of Italian-American favorites: mounds of pasta with red sauce, bone-in chicken Vesuvio, veal piccata, and a variety of seafood. Harry’s is also a good place to order massive plates of meat: dry-aged prime steaks, lamb, veal, and pork chops. If you don’t want a full-service meal, the bar is a lively place for watching a game and grabbing some munchies—and, incidentally, the bar is 60 feet, 6 inches long, the same distance from the pitcher’s mound to home plate.

Harry Caray’s also has a location on Navy Pier, 700 E. Grand Ave. (& 312/527-9700).

33 W. Kinzie St. (at Dearborn St.). 312/828-0966. www.harrycarays.com. Main courses $15–$40. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11:30am–3pm; Mon–Thurs 5–10:30pm; Fri–Sat 5–11pm; Sun 11:30am–4pm (bar only) and 4–10pm. Subway/El: Brown Line to Merchandise Mart or Red Line to Grand.

Nacional 27 ★ LATIN AMERICAN Part sleek restaurant, part nightclub, Nacional 27 showcases the cuisine of 27 Latin American nations, including Venezuela, Argentina, Costa Rica, and Brazil. Rich walnut and bamboo woods and gauzy curtains lend a tropical air to the grand dining room, which has cozy booth seating and tables arranged around a central dance floor. The innovative drink menu will get you in the mood: You’ll find classic mojitos, sangrias, and trendy martini variations. For starters, there are a variety of skewers, seviches, and empanadas; entrees are divided into steaks, seafood, and “Latin Comfort Foods,” which include stick-to-your-ribs selections such as smoked pork tenderloin with mashed Cuban sweet potatoes or tequila-marinated chicken. (Some of the food can be spicy, so ask before you order if you’ve got sensitive taste buds.) Nacional 27 heats up on Friday and Saturday nights after 10pm, when a DJ spins Latin tunes and couples hit the dance floor.

325 W. Huron St. (btw. Franklin and Orleans sts.). 312/664-2727. www.nacional27.net. Reservations recommended. Main courses $15–$28. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Dining room Mon–Thurs 5:30–9:30pm; Fri–Sat 5:30–10:30pm. Bar Mon–Thurs 5pm–9:30pm; Fri 5pm–2am; Sat 5pm–3am. Subway/El: Brown Line to Chicago.

Osteria Via Stato ★★ ITALIAN An American take on the classic Italian trattoria, Osteria Via Stato delivers top-quality, authentic dishes in a cozy setting. Where it really shines, I think, is with its “Italian Dinner Party” menu: A set price of $39 buys you a full, European-style meal, including a range of antipasto plates, two pastas, and a meat entree (recent choices included halibut Milanese with lemon-herb breadcrumbs, and braised pork shank with white beans and bacon). They’ll bring you unlimited helpings of everything except the entrees, so come with an appetite. If you’re not up for a gut-busting meal, you can also order appetizer-only or appetizer-and-pasta versions, or choose from the a la carte menu. To keep drinks simple, request the “Just Bring Me Wine” program, which matches a glass of wine to each course at three different price levels. The adjacent Pizzeria Via Stato serves Roman-style thin-crust pizzas with artisanal and classic toppings, and is open for lunch and dinner.

620 N. State St. (at Ontario St.). 312/642-8450. www.osteriaviastato.com. Reservations accepted. Fixed-price dinner $39; entrees $16–$29. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 5–10pm; Fri–Sat 5–11pm; Sun 5–9:30pm. Subway/El: Red Line to Grand.

SushiSamba Rio ★★ LATIN AMERICAN/SUSHI At first glimpse, the menu seems like a gimmick: Latin American ceviche paired with sushi? But it’s based on a real culinary tradition: When Japanese immigrants moved to Peru and Brazil in the early 20th century, they combined their native cuisine with South American flavors. I highly recommend the creative “samba rolls,” and the El Topo (salmon, jalapeño pepper, mozzarella, and crispy onions wrapped in sticky rice) tastes much better than it sounds. Depending on your appetite and budget, you can order light (seviches, mini seafood tacos) or go all out with a selection of Kobe beef entrees or red snapper (served whole) on a bed of coconut rice with an aromatic red-curry sauce. Part of the fun of dining here is the flashy decor, from the colorful, multilevel dining room with its sunken red conversation pit to the Miami Beach–inspired rooftop patio (a great place to sample the creative cocktail menu).

504 N. Wells St. (at Illinois St.). 312/595-2300. www.sushisamba.com. Reservations recommended on weekends. Main courses $8–$17 lunch, $12–$29 dinner. AE, MC, V. Sun–Mon 11:30am–11pm; Tues 11:30am–midnight; Wed–Fri 11:30am–1am; Sat 11:30am–2am; Sun brunch 11:30am–3:30pm. Subway/El: Brown Line to Merchandise Mart or Red Line to Grand.

Vermilion ★ INDIAN/LATIN AMERICAN Owner Rohini Dey and executive chef Maneet Chauhan—both women, both originally from India—have found a common thread between Indian and Latin American cooking: Both feature similar ingredients (rice and chilies), use some of the same seasonings (cumin and coriander), and even share similar preparations (Latin salsas vs. Indian chutneys). The result is a menu that mixes flavors in new ways that still seem somewhat familiar, whether it’s empanadas with mango-coconut chutney, ceviche with Indian spices, or tandoori skirt steak served on sautéed garlic spinach with fried plantain. (There are also three different five-course tasting menus, $70–$80.) This isn’t your usual Taj Mahal–meets–Bollywood Indian decor, either—the sleek white dining room is brightened with red decorative accents and large black-and-white fashion photographs. The lounge is open late for drinks and dessert, served to a soundtrack of Indian and Latin American tunes.

10 W. Hubbard St. (at State St.). 312/527-4060. www.thevermilionrestaurant.com. Reservations recommended on weekends. Main courses $23–$33. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11:30am–2:30pm; Sun–Thurs 5–10pm; Fri–Sat 5–11pm. Lounge until 11pm. Subway/El: Red Line to Grand.

ZED 451 ★★ AMERICAN If you often find yourself staring indecisively at menus because everything sounds good, the ZED 451 concept is made for you. Pay a set price ($48 per person), and you get unlimited trips to the “Harvest Table,” a trendy take on the salad bar, with homemade soups, breads, cheeses, and vegetables. Head back to your table, and the main course comes to you: Chefs stroll throughout the restaurant, offering unlimited appetizer-sized portions of the day’s specialties, which could be anything from citrus salmon and Mediterranean chicken breast to grilled rib-eye and goat cheese–encrusted rack of lamb (there are usually at least 10 choices, all included in the set price). The space itself is gorgeous, with soaring ceilings and sexy lighting; the extensive use of natural materials gives this distinctly urban environment a warm, sultry vibe. Head to the outdoor rooftop deck for an after-dinner drink: The sparkling lights of the neighborhood high-rises make for a magical setting. The restaurant also offers Sunday brunch ($24 per person).

739 N. Clark St. (1 block south of Chicago Ave.). 888/493-3451. www.zed451.com. Prix-fixe meal $48 per person. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 4:30–10pm; Fri–Sat 4:30–11pm; Sun 10am–2pm and 4:30–10pm. Subway/El: Brown or Red line to Chicago.

Moderate

Carson’s ★ AMERICAN/BARBECUE A true Chicago institution, Carson’s calls itself “The Place for Ribs,” but you won’t go wrong if you order anything slathered in the restaurant’s sweet-and-tangy barbecue sauce. You can get ribs by the full or half slab, or gorge on one of the signature combo plates, which pair ribs with barbecue chicken, pork chops, or shrimp. (There are also entree-sized salads and sandwiches for smaller appetites.) For dinner, there’s often a wait, but don’t despair: In the bar area, you’ll find a heaping mound of some of the best chopped liver around and plenty of cocktail rye to go with it. When you’re seated at your table, tie on your plastic bib and indulge. Carson’s popularity has led to something of a factory mentality among management, which sometimes herds diners in and out, but the servers are responsive to requests not to be hurried through the meal.

612 N. Wells St. (at Ontario St.). 312/280-9200. www.ribs.com. Reservations accepted. Main courses $13–$34. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 11:30am–10:30pm; Fri 11:30am–11pm; Sat noon–11pm; Sun noon–10pm. Subway/El: Red Line to Grand.

Cyrano’s Bistrot & Wine Bar ★ BISTRO/FRENCH Warm and welcoming, Cyrano’s exudes authentic bistro charm, due in part to the friendly presence of chef Didier Durand and his wife, Jamie. The cheery blue-and-red wood exterior, eclectic artwork, and personal asides on the menu (“Use of cellular phones may interfere with the stability of our whipped cream”) signal the owner’s hands-on touch. Start with one of Durand’s sensationally flavorful soups (the lobster bisque is a highlight) or the pommes frites, served with Dijon mustard, homemade ketchup, and mayonnaise. The house specialties are the rotisserie duck and chicken served with your choice of sauce and classics such as steak frites, roasted rabbit with mustard sauce, and cassoulet. The restaurant’s lower-level cabaret has live entertainment most nights of the week, and in warmer months, a sidewalk cafe is open all day.

546 N. Wells St. (btw. Ohio St. and Grand Ave.). 312/467-0546. www.cyranosbistrot.com. Main courses $17–$30. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 4–10pm; Fri 4–10:30pm; Sat 4–11pm. Subway/El: Brown Line to Merchandise Mart.

Gino’s East ★★ PIZZA Many Chicagoans consider Gino’s the city’s quintessential deep-dish pizza. True to its reputation, the pizza is heavy, so work up an appetite before chowing down (a small cheese pizza is usually enough for two people—unless you’re a champion eater). Specialty pizzas include the supreme, stuffed with sausage, onions, green pepper, and mushrooms; and the vegetarian, with onions, peppers, asparagus, summer squash, zucchini, and eggplant. Gino’s also offers salads, sandwiches, and pastas. A warning for hungry families: Pizzas are cooked to order, so you’ll have to wait about 45 minutes for your food (I highly recommend calling ahead to preorder, which will save you about a half-hour of waiting time, but preorders aren’t accepted on Fri or Sat). If you want to take a pizza home, Gino’s also has frozen pies for the road.

633 N. Wells St. (at Ontario St.). 312/943-1124. www.ginoseast.com. Reservations not accepted. Pizza $12–$29. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 11am–10pm; Fri–Sat 11am–11pm; Sun noon–9pm. Subway/El: Red Line to Grand.

HUB 51 ★★ AMERICAN This high-energy eatery is definitely a scene—with polished singles and couples lingering over drinks in the dimly lit, clublike dining room. Stylish setting and clientele aside, the place also offers some legitimately good globally inspired food. The large, varied menu ranges from light offerings (sushi rolls with miso-glazed salmon; shrimp ceviche; a Brussels sprout salad with dates, almonds, and Manchego cheese) to hearty options such as a massive “two-handed” turkey meatloaf sandwich, filet mignon steak tacos, or braised short ribs. The hearty green chili cheeseburger, topped with roasted poblano chilies and sharp cheddar, is a satisfying twist on an American classic. There are also several vegetarian and gluten-free options. Lunch and weekend brunch menus are similarly eclectic. A late-night menu is offered beginning at midnight, and a downstairs lounge transforms into a dance club on Wednesday through Saturday nights.

51 W. Hubbard St. (at Dearborn St.) 312/828-0051. www.hub51chicago.com. Reservations accepted. Main courses $9–$20 lunch, $13–$30 dinner. AE, MC, V. Mon–Tues 11:30am–midnight; Wed–Fri 11:30am–2am; Sat 10am–3am; Sun 10am–midnight (brunch Sat–Sun 10am–2pm). Subway/El: Red Line to Grand.

Reza’s ★★ MIDDLE EASTERN Reza’s doesn’t look like the typical Middle Eastern restaurant. Housed in a former microbrewery, it has high ceilings and expansive, loftlike dining rooms, but the Persian-inspired menu will soon make you forget all about beer. Specialties include a deliciously rich chicken in pomegranate sauce and a variety of kabobs with heaps of dill rice (although, in a nod to carb-conscious diners, they’ll substitute a salad if you want). If you can’t decide what to order, go for an appetizer combo: a generous sampler of Middle Eastern dishes including hummus, tabbouleh, and other standbys, nicely presented in a red-lacquer bento box. (Despite the menu’s meat-heavy emphasis, there’s a selection of vegetarian sampler plates, too.) Reza’s has another location in Andersonville, at 5255 N. Clark St. (& 773/561-1898), but the River North spot is the most convenient for visitors staying downtown.

432 W. Ontario St. (at Orleans St.). 312/664-4500. www.rezasrestaurant.com. Main courses $13–$25. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11am–midnight. Subway/El: Red Line to Grand.

Rockit Bar & Grill ★ AMERICAN Take your standard American burger joint, give it an upscale, urban makeover, and you’ve got Rockit. The dining room is a trendy take on traditional tavern decor, where exposed-brick walls and distressed-wood tables combine with metallic accents and chocolate-brown leather booths. The Rockit Burger combines Kobe beef and melted brie, served with truffle oil french fries, while the wonderfully tender bone-in pork chop is served with country-style red mashed potatoes and grilled asparagus. The “My Sisters” chopped salad—a signature dish—is a filling mix of romaine lettuce, ham, tomatoes, provolone, hot cherry peppers, corn, and egg with balsamic dressing. Rockit is no gourmet destination, but if you’re looking to chow down on better-than-decent food in a high-energy setting, Rockit fits the bill. (Bonus: The waitstaff range from good-looking to gorgeous.)

22 W. Hubbard St. (btw. Wabash and State sts.). 312/645-6000. www.rockitbarandgrill.com. Reservations accepted. Main courses $10–$21 lunch, $11–$32 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Wed 11:30am–12:30am; Thurs–Fri 11:30am–1:30am; Sat 10:30am–2:30am. Subway/El: Red Line to Grand.

Sable Kitchen & Bar ★ AMERICAN Walk through Sable’s industrial-chic bar, with its black-clad cocktail waitresses, and into the minimalist, neutral-toned dining room, and you might expect a certain amount of culinary posing. Not so. There may be some disconnect between Sable’s urban cool decor and its down-to-earth menu of American comfort food, but the contrast works: Sable is a great pick for not-so-adventurous diners who still want to experience a stylish, downtown restaurant scene. With most dishes available in half or whole portions, you can choose to eat tapas-style, or order a more traditional meat-and-side entrée. Twists on standard American favorites include deviled eggs with truffle oil and black trumpet mushrooms; mini bison burgers glazed with root beer; pistachio-cherry duck sausage with Parmesan grits; and spicy fried quail legs served with blue cheese coleslaw (an upscale take on Buffalo wings). There’s also an extensive menu of specialty beers and custom cocktails (which cost as much as some of the dishes).

Breakfast & brunch

NEAR THE LOOP & MAGNIFICENT MILE

You can get a good (and upscale) breakfast at one of the hotels near the Loop or Magnificent Mile. Favorite spots for business travelers looking to impress include The Café, at the Four Seasons Hotel, 120 E. Delaware Place (312/280-8800); and Drake Bros. Restaurant at The Drake Hotel, 140 E. Walton Place, at Michigan Avenue (312/787-2200).

A more informal choice in the Loop, overlooking the El tracks, is Heaven on Seven ★★, where the Cajun and Creole specialties supplement an enormous diner-style menu.

For brunch with some soul, head to House of Blues, 329 N. Dearborn St., at Kinzie Street (312/527-2583;), for its popular Sunday gospel brunch. To guarantee seating, it’s a good idea to book a spot 2 weeks in advance.

A local breakfast favorite since 1923 is Lou Mitchell’s, 565 W. Jackson Blvd. (312/939-3111; loumitchellsrestaurant.com), across the south branch of the Chicago River from the Loop, a block farther west than Union Station. You’ll be greeted at the door with a basket of doughnut holes and Milk Duds so that you can nibble while waiting for a table.

For a Southern-style breakfast of spicy red eggs, cheese grits, or biscuits and gravy, head over to Wishbone ★★, a family-friendly, laid-back spot in a converted warehouse building in the West Loop.

LINCOLN PARK & THE NORTH SIDE

A perfect breakfast or brunch spot if you’re heading up to Wrigleyville for a Cubs game or a walk through Lincoln Park is Ann Sather ★★, famous for its homemade cinnamon rolls.

The Nookies restaurants are Chicago favorites for all the standard morning fare. Locations include 2114 N. Halsted St., in Lincoln Park (773/327-1400; www.nookiesrestaurants.net); 1748 N. Wells St., in Old Town (312/337-2454); and 3334 N. Halsted St., in Lakeview (773/248-9888). Especially in Old Town, be prepared to stand outside on the weekends until a table opens for you. It’s quite a scene on the sidewalk, which is packed with baby strollers, dogs on leashes, large groups chatting, and singles reading the newspaper.

Go to Orange, 3231 N. Clark St., at Belmont (773/549-4400; orangerestaurantchicago.com), for a fun twist on breakfast foods. Try the Green Eggs and Ham—eggs scrambled with pesto, tomatoes, mozzarella, and pancetta. There’s a kids’ menu, too, making this a popular choice for families. But a warning to all those with hungry kids (and parents): Come early or late; the line for a table winds outside during prime weekend brunch hours.

Lincoln Park’s Toast, 746 W. Webster St., at Halsted Street (773/935-5600), is homey yet slightly funky. Pancakes come in all sorts of tempting varieties, from lemon/poppy seed drizzled with honey to the “pancake orgy,” a strawberry, mango, and banana-pecan pancake topped with granola, yogurt, and honey. Come early on weekends, though; by 10:30am or so, there’s guaranteed to be a lengthy wait.

WICKER PARK/BUCKTOWN

The brightly colored and artwork-adorned Earwax Café, 1561 N. Milwaukee Ave., at North and Damen avenues (773/772-4019; www.earwax-cafe.com), is a Wicker Park institution serving everything from salmon Benedict to vegan options such as the popular tofu scramble. Don’t let the unappetizing name, the proliferation of hipsters, or the dearth of meat deter you from this place. The food is delicious, the back patio is delightful, and the tattooed and pierced waitstaff could not be nicer.

505 N. State St. (at Illinois St.), in the Hotel Palomar. 312/755-9704. www.sablechicago.com. Reservations recommended on weekends. Main courses $14–$25. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11:30am–2pm, and 5–10pm; Sat 5–10pm; Sun 5–9pm. Subway/El: Red Line to Grand.

Dining alfresco

Cocooned for 6 months of the year, with furnaces and electric blankets blazing, Chicagoans revel in the warm months of late spring, summer, and early autumn. For locals and visitors alike, dining alfresco is an ideal way to experience the sights, sounds, smells, and social fabric of this multifaceted city.

LOOP & VICINITY

Athena ★ This Greektown mainstay offers a stunning three-level outdoor seating area. It’s paved with brick and landscaped with 30-foot trees, flower gardens, and even a waterfall. Best of all: An incredible view of the downtown skyline with the Sears Tower right in the middle. It’s located at 212 S. Halsted St., between Adams and Jackson streets (312/655-0000; www.athenarestaurantchicago.com).

Park Grill ★★ Millennium Park’s restaurant serves upscale versions of American comfort food with panoramic views of Michigan Avenue. In the summer, you can pick up a sandwich and grab a seat on the large patio (converted into an ice-skating rink come winter). It’s at 11 N. Michigan Ave., at Madison Street (312/521-PARK [7275]).

Rhapsody ★★ A tranquil oasis amid the Loop high-rises, Rhapsody’s outdoor garden is a great spot for a romantic meal downtown. 65 E. Adams St., at Wabash Avenue (312/786-9911).

MAGNIFICENT MILE & GOLD COAST

Charlie’s Ale House at Navy Pier One of several outdoor dining options along Navy Pier, this outpost of the Lincoln Park restaurant has lip-smacking pub fare and a great location on the southern promenade overlooking the lakefront and Loop skyline. It’s located at 700 E. Grand Ave., near the entrance to the Pier (312/595-1440).

Le Colonial ★★ This lovely French-Vietnamese restaurant, located in a vintage Gold Coast town house and evocative of 1920s Saigon, does have a sidewalk cafe, but you’d do better to reserve a table on the tiny second-floor porch, overlooking the street. For a full review. It’s located at 937 N. Rush St., just south of Oak Street (312/255-0088).

Oak Street Beachstro Suit up and head for this warm-weather-only beachfront cafe—literally on the sands of popular Oak Street Beach—which serves inventive cafe fare (fresh seafood, sandwiches, and pastas). Beer and wine are available. The address is 1000 N. Lake Shore Dr., at Oak Street Beach (312/915-4100; www.oakstreetbeachstro.com).

Puck’s at the MCA This cafe—run by celebrity chef Wolfgang Puck—is tucked in the back of the Museum of Contemporary Art, where, from the terrace, you’ll get a view of the museum’s sculpture garden. (Restaurant-only patrons can bypass museum admission.) The address is 220 E. Chicago Ave., at Fairbanks Court (312/397-4034; www.mcachicago.org).

RIVER NORTH

SushiSamba Rio ★★ For stunning nighttime views of the skyline—accompanied by views of some pretty stunning people—head to the rooftop deck of this Latin-Asian fusion spot. Canopied banquettes and flickering tea lights create a sultry atmosphere, along with a menu of specialty cocktails. You’ll find it at 504 N. Wells St., at Illinois St. (312/595-2300).

ZED 451 ★★ You’ll find another great rooftop deck on top of this funky all-you-can-eat spot. Here the wood decor and laid-back vibe let you imagine you’re kicking back at a rich friend’s penthouse. See page 124. It’s at 739 N. Clark St., 1 block south of Chicago Ave. (888/493-3451).

LINCOLN PARK

Charlie’s Ale House A true neighborhood hangout, this Lincoln Park pub’s wonderful beer garden—surrounded by tall, ivy-covered brick walls—is spacious and buzzing with activity and good vibes. It’s located at 1224 W. Webster Ave., at Magnolia Avenue (773/871-1440).

North Pond ★★★ Set on the banks of one of Lincoln Park’s beautiful lagoons, the excellent North Pond serves upscale, fresh-as-can-be American cuisine in a romantic and sylvan setting. The address is 2610 N. Cannon Dr., halfway between Diversey Parkway and Fullerton Avenue (773/477-5845).

O’Brien’s Restaurant Wells Street in Old Town is lined with several alfresco options, but the best belongs to O’Brien’s, the unofficial nucleus of neighborhood life. The outdoor patio has teakwood furniture, a gazebo bar, and a mural of the owners’ country club on a brick wall. Order the dressed-up chips, a house specialty. Located at 1528 N. Wells St., 2 blocks south of North Avenue (312/787-3131; www.obriensrestaurant.com).

WRIGLEYVILLE & VICINITY

Tapas Gitana ★ The tapas and sangria at this cozy Wrigleyville restaurant can compete with other, better-known Spanish spots, and the intimate, leafy terrace out back glows with lantern light. Located at 3445 N. Halsted St., at Newport Avenue (773/296-6046; www.tapasgitana.com).

Moody’s For more than 30 years, Moody’s has been grilling some of the best burgers in Chicago. It’s ideal in winter for its dark, cozy dining room (warmed by a fireplace), but it’s better still in summer for its awesome outdoor patio, a real hidden treasure. The address is 5910 N. Broadway Ave., between Rosedale and Thorndale avenues (773/275-2696; www.moodyspub.com).

WICKER PARK/BUCKTOWN

Northside Café On a sunny summer day, Northside seems like Wicker Park’s town square, packed with an eclectic mix of locals catching up and checking out the scene. The entire front of the restaurant opens onto the street, making it relatively easy to get an “outdoor” table. Located at 1635 N. Damen Ave., just north of North Avenue (773/384-3555).

Inexpensive

Café Iberico ★★ SPANISH & TAPAS This no-frills tapas spot won’t win any points for style, but the consistently good food and festive atmosphere make it a longtime local favorite for singles in their 20s and 30s. Café Iberico gets very loud, especially on weekends, so it makes a fun group destination—but plan your romantic tête-à-tête elsewhere. Crowds begin pouring in at the end of the workday, so you’ll probably have to wait for a table. Not to worry: Order a pitcher of fruit-filled sangria at the bar with everyone else. When you get a table, start with the queso de cabra (baked goat cheese with fresh tomato-basil sauce). A few standout dishes are the vegetarian Spanish omelet, spicy potatoes with tomato sauce, chicken brochette with caramelized onions and rice, and grilled octopus with potatoes and olive oil.

739 N. LaSalle St. (btw. Chicago Ave. and Superior St.). 312/573-1510. www.cafeiberico.com. Reservations accepted for parties of 6 or more; no reservations for Fri–Sat dinner. Tapas $4–$7; main courses $7–$12. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 11am–11:30pm; Fri 11am–1:30am; Sat 11am–1:30am; Sun 11am–11pm. Subway/El: Red Line to Chicago or Brown Line to Chicago.

Mr. Beef ★ FAST FOOD Calling Mr. Beef a restaurant may be a stretch: The place is basically a sandwich stand, without much atmosphere or room for seating (the “dining room” has one long communal picnic table). Despite these drawbacks, Mr. Beef is a much-loved Chicago institution. Its claim to fame is the classic Italian beef sandwich, the Chicago version of a Philly cheese steak. The Mr. Beef variety is made of sliced beef dipped in jus, piled high on a chewy bun, and topped with sweet or hot peppers. It’s heavy, filling, messy, and very Chicago. Mr. Beef really hops during lunchtime, when dusty construction workers and suit-clad businessmen crowd in for their greasy fix. While you’re chowing, check out the celebrity photos and newspaper clippings covering the walls, and you’ll see why this place is considered a local monument.

666 N. Orleans St. (at Erie St.). 312/337-8500. Sandwiches $6–$8.50. No credit cards. Mon–Thurs 8:30am–7pm; Fri 8:30am–7pm and 10:30pm–5am; Sat 10:30am–3pm and 10:30pm–5am. Subway/El: Red Line to Grand.

Pizzeria Uno ★ PIZZA Pizzeria Uno invented Chicago-style pizza, and many deep-dish aficionados still refuse to accept any imitations. Uno’s is now a chain of restaurants throughout the country, but come here if you want to taste the original. You can eat in the restaurant itself on the basement level or, weather permitting, on the outdoor patio right off the sidewalk. Salads, sandwiches, and a house minestrone are also available, but let’s be honest—the main reason to come here is for the pizza. As with Gino’s East (see earlier), pizzas take about 45 minutes to make, so if you’re starving, order an appetizer or salad.

Uno was so successful that the owners opened Pizzeria Due in a lovely gray-brick Victorian town house nearby at 619 N. Wabash Ave., at Ontario Street (& 312/943-2400). The menu is exactly the same, the atmosphere just a tad nicer (with more outdoor seating).

29 E. Ohio St. (at Wabash Ave.). 312/321-1000. www.unos.com. Reservations not accepted. Pizza $7–$27. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11am–1am; Sat 11am–2am; Sun 11am–11pm. Subway/El: Red Line to Grand.

Portillo’s ★★ AMERICAN/FAST FOOD Although it’s known mostly for its Chicago-style hot dogs and Italian beef sandwiches, this local chain has a surprisingly well-rounded menu, making it a good, affordable stop for families with varied tastes. At the main counter, you can order from the usual fast-food favorites (hot dogs, hamburgers, fries, and so on); the tasty grilled tuna sandwich is lighter alternative. Across the room, a separate counter serves up a range of pastas and salads; the generously sized Asian chicken salad and chicken pecan version are both served with a hunk of chewy, addictive homemade bread. If you’re in the mood to indulge, the rich chocolate cake is one of the best desserts in town. With its tourist-friendly location, Portillo’s can get crowded and loud (especially if you’re unlucky enough to arrive at the same time as a high school tour group), but it’s an authentic Chicago spot, and a bargain compared to other River North restaurants.

100 W. Ontario St. (at Clark St.). 312/587-8930. www.portillos.com. Reservations not accepted. Main courses $3–$9. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V; Mon–Sat 10am–midnight; Sun 10am–11pm. Subway/El: Red Line to Grand.

Lincoln Park & Old Town

Singles and upwardly mobile young families inhabit Lincoln Park, the neighborhood roughly defined by North Avenue on the south, Diversey Parkway on the north, the park on the east, and Clybourn Avenue on the west. In the southeast corner of this area is Old Town, a neighborhood of historic town houses that stretches out from the intersection of North Avenue and Wells Street. You’ll find a few fine-dining spots, but most restaurants here are more casual, with average prices lower than you’ll find in River North or along the Magnificent Mile.

Very Expensive

Alinea ★★★ NEW AMERICAN Alinea—anointed the best restaurant in the country by no less than Gourmet magazine—is a place no serious foodie should miss. Like Homaro Cantu at Moto, chef Grant Achatz revolutionizes the way we eat, presenting familiar foods in new contexts and unexpected forms. (He’s been known, for example, to serve dishes on lavender-scented pillows, so the aroma wafts up as you eat.) The 12- or 24-course tasting menus change constantly, but you’re guaranteed to taste something new here, whether it’s ravioli with a liquid-truffle filling; Wagyu beef with deconstructed A1 steak sauce; or lobster and popcorn served with a cube of butter that’s cold on the outside, melted on the inside. Achatz says he wants diners to feel like they’re taking a journey, “zigzagging between challenge and comfort.” The restaurant itself is certainly comfortable, with shoulder-high chairs you can sink into and soft, flattering lighting. Eat with an open mind (and a full wallet), and you’ll be well rewarded.

1723 N. Halsted St. (btw. North Ave. and Willow St.). 312/867-0110. www.alinea-restaurant.com. Reservations strongly recommended. Fixed-price menus $150 and $225. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Wed–Fri 5:30–9:30pm; Sat–Sun 5–9:30pm. Subway/El: Red Line to North/Clybourn.

Charlie Trotter’s ★★★ NEW AMERICAN Charlie Trotter, Chicago’s first celebrity chef, still draws foodies to his namesake restaurant after more than 20 years in business. Trotter delights in presenting diners with unfamiliar ingredients and presentations, and prides himself on using only organic or free-range products (so you can feel good about indulging). There is no a la carte menu; your only choice is to decide between the vegetable ($135) or grand ($155) tasting menu. The entree descriptions signal Trotter’s attention to detail; sample dishes include steamed Casco Bay cod with cockles, picholine olives, artichokes, and stinging nettles; and roasted squab breast with Alaskan licorice, toasted pistachios and heirloom beets. The dining room may be formal, but the overall attitude is attentive, not intimidating. A sommelier is on hand to help match wines with each course.

For a taste of Trotter’s gourmet fare without the high price tag, check out Trotter’s to Go, his gourmet food store in Lincoln Park at 1337 W. Fullerton Ave. (btw. Lakewood and Wayne aves.; & 773/868-6510).

816 W. Armitage Ave. (at Halsted St.). 773/248-6228. www.charlietrotters.com. Reservations required. Jackets required, ties requested. Fixed-price menus $135 and $165. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Seatings Tues–Thurs at 6 and 9pm; Fri–Sat at 5:30 and 9pm. Subway/El: Brown Line to Armitage.

Geja’s Cafe ★ FONDUE A dark, subterranean hideaway, Geja’s (pronounced gay-haz) regularly shows up on lists of the most romantic restaurants in Chicago. However, the interior might strike some as too gloomy, and the cook-it-yourself technique won’t appeal to anyone who wants to be pampered. The best overall option is the Prince Geja’s combination dinner, which starts with a Gruyère cheese fondue appetizer. Next, a huge platter arrives, brimming with squares of beef tenderloin, lobster tails, jumbo shrimp, chicken breast, and scallops—all raw—and a caldron of boiling oil to cook them in. These delicacies are accompanied by a variety of raw vegetables and eight different dipping sauces. When the flaming chocolate fondue arrives for dessert, with fresh fruit and pound cake for dipping and marshmallows for roasting, you’ll want to beg for mercy. Caution: The aroma of cooking oil that fills the restaurant might bother some sensitive noses.

340 W. Armitage Ave. (btw. Lincoln Ave. and Clark St.). 773/281-9101. www.gejascafe.com. Reservations accepted. 3-course dinners $28–$49 per person. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 5–10pm; Fri 5–11pm; Sat 5–11:30pm; Sun 4:30–9:30pm. Bus: 22. Subway/El: Brown Line to Armitage.

L2O ★★★ SEAFOOD French chef Laurent Gras leads this kitchen, which gracefully swims the line between traditional fine dining and molecular gastronomy. Although L2O (pronounced “El-Two-Oh”) is not afraid of a little liquid nitrogen once in a while, the tricks here are not as dramatic as they are at Alinea or Moto; the cuisine is as refined and carefully prepared as any in town. Recent offerings on the ever-changing menu have included halibut with arugula dumplings and bacon butter; diver scallops with vanilla and passion fruit; and smoked salmon flavored with Earl Gray tea, ginger noodles, and croutons. A tasting menu is your only option here, with most courses featuring seafood, but you also might get a taste of the chef’s take on Peking duck or beef short ribs. L2O also has private tatami-floored rooms where groups of up to eight people can enjoy a traditional Japanese meal complete with kimono-clad servers.

2300 N. Lincoln Park West (at Belden Ave.). 773/868-0002. www.l2orestaurant.com. Reservations strongly recommended. 4- to 12-course tasting menus $110–$245 (Japanese kaiseki menu $225). AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Mon, Wed–Thurs 6–10pm (closed Tues); Fri 6–11pm; Sat 5–11pm. Bus: 151.

North Pond ★★★ AMERICAN Tucked away in Lincoln Park, north of the zoo, North Pond truly is a hidden treasure. The building’s Arts and Crafts–inspired interior blends perfectly with the park outside, and the addition, with its abundance of windows via French doors, lets you dine “outside” year-round. In keeping with the natural setting, chef Bruce Sherman emphasizes sustainable, locally grown ingredients and favors simple preparations—although the overall result is definitely upscale (at these prices, it’d better be). Examples of seasonal menu items include grilled sturgeon with mascarpone polenta, griddled green asparagus, maple bacon, and arugula; and grilled pork loin and braised pork belly with andouille sausage, cranberry-black bean ragout, charred peppers, and black figs. For dessert, try a plate of artisanal cheeses or dark chocolate mousse with roasted apricots and a hazelnut biscuit. To enjoy the setting with a slightly lower price tag, try the three-course Sunday brunch ($32). The all-American wine list focuses on boutique vintners.

2610 N. Cannon Dr. (south of Diversey Pkwy.). 773/477-5845. www.northpondrestaurant.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $32–$39. AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Sat 5:30–10pm (closed Tues Jan–April); Sun 10:30am–1:30pm and 5:30–10pm. Lunch served June–Sept Tues–Fri 11:30am–1:30pm. Bus: 151.

Expensive

Boka ★ AMERICAN In a neighborhood full of Irish pubs and casual sandwich joints, Boka is a sophisticated, grown-up alternative. The dimly lit dining room manages to be both romantic and dramatic, thanks to the white fabric “sculptures” stretched across the ceiling. The food—described by the owners as “progressive American”—combines upscale ingredients in creative ways, such as roasted duck breast with golden barley cake; mahimahi with orange gnocchi; pickled tongue; and French fries cooked in duck fat. There are also six- and nine-course tasting menus. The desserts, which look like miniature modern art arrangements, offer a similar mix of flavors, such as a chocolate-caramel terrine with bourbon ice cream and malt meringue. Boka is a good place to grab dinner before a show at the nearby Steppenwolf Theatre, but make a reservation first. Aesthetically, Boka’s main claim to fame is its cellphone booth, where diners are encouraged to make calls in private—an idea that many hope will catch on.

1729 N. Halsted St. (btw. North Ave. and Willow St.). 312/337-6070. www.bokachicago.com. Reservations recommended on weekends. Main courses $24–$37; tasting menus $85 and $115. AE, MC, V. Daily 5–11pm. Subway/El: Red Line to North/Clybourn.

Mon Ami Gabi ★ BISTRO/FRENCH This “French steakhouse” concept seduces with its aromatic bistro atmosphere, tasty steak preparations, and rolling cart of wines by the glass (“Gabi” refers to executive chef Gabino Sotelino). There are numerous classic starters and hot seafood appetizers, such as plump mussels steamed in white wine and herbs, pâtés, and cheeses, and the simple but impeccably executed entrees include chicken paillard (a crusty, pounded chicken breast in lemon butter) and trout Grenobloise (pan-seared trout in caper butter with a sprinkle of croutons). Steak frites can be customized with maître d’hôtel butter, au poivre, Roquefort, or bordelaise (with caramelized onions in mushroom and red wine sauce). For the full Gabi experience, don’t skip dessert: The bananas foster crepe or profiteroles topped with warm fudge are the perfect ending to a French meal.

2300 N. Lincoln Park West (at Belden Ave.). 773/348-8886. www.monamigabi.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $15–$30. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 5:30–10pm; Fri–Sat 5–11pm; Sun 5–9pm. Bus: 151.

Perennial Virant ★★ AMERICAN This elegant charmer stands out for both its airy look and its fresh, seasonal preparations. The bright, light-filled dining room is a loungey-cool space that attracts young singles and couples from the neighborhood, many of whom fill the outdoor patio overlooking Lincoln Park (unfortunately, it also overlooks busy, traffic-filled Clark St.). The menu includes a range of small plates meant to be shared, including roasted chicken sausage with hot pepper vinaigrette; scallops with carrot puree, and other dishes that highlight fresh, seasonal ingredients (the chef, Paul Virant, is a fan of the nearby Green City farmers’ market). There’s also a nightly three-course prix-fixe meal for $35, as well as a custom-brewed beer on tap.

1800 N. Lincoln Ave. (at Clark St.). 312/981-7070. www.perennialchicago.com. Small plates $9–$26; prix-fixe dinner $35. AE, MC, V. Mon–Fri 5–10pm; Sat–Sun 10am–2pm and 5–11pm. Bus: 22 (Clark St.).

Moderate

Adobo Grill MEXICAN A cut above the average taco joint, Adobo Grill showcases the flavors of Mexico in a bright, contemporary setting. If you don’t mind noise, join the action on the first floor; head upstairs for a quieter meal. Adobo Grill’s signature dish is the fresh guacamole prepared tableside (you choose the spice level, but be warned that even the “medium” will give your tongue a jolt). Entrees include an achiote-marinated pork chop with black beans, pickled purple onions, and molcajete salsa; and the lighter but tangy chipotle-marinated grilled shrimp with plantain, rice, and zucchini noodles. Before ordering a margarita or one of the 60 sipping tequilas, consider a refreshing Michelada (your choice of beer with lime juice in a chili- and salt-dusted glass) or a bittersweet Adobopolitan (tequila, Citrónge, and pomegranate juice). Although the busy bar is a singles’ hangout, families are a regular part of the restaurant’s clientele; there’s even a kids’ menu.

1610 N. Wells St. (at North Ave.). 312/266-7999. www.adobogrill.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $14–$25. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 5–10pm; Fri 5–11pm; Sat 11am–11pm; Sun 11am–9pm. Bus: 22, 36, or 156.

Bistrot Margot ★★ BISTRO/FRENCH This family-owned-and-operated restaurant is not only one of the best in Old Town, but it’s also one of the top bistros in Chicago. The tables are quite close together, but for many, the room’s noisy bustle adds to its charm, giving the place the feel of an authentic Parisian cafe. Starters include a traditional preparation of mussels in white wine with fresh herbs; escargot in garlic butter; and country-style pâté. The well-prepared French staples (roasted chicken with garlic and lemon; duck confit; rack of lamb with Dijon mustard; steak frites) are proof that, when done right, it’s hard to beat classic bistro cuisine. On warm nights, the restaurant sets about a dozen tables on the sidewalk, which, on this busy stretch of Wells Street, makes for a truly memorable meal.

Bistrot Margot’s weekend brunch puts a Gallic twist on this traditionally American meal, with choices such as brioche French toast and croque-monsieur sandwiches.

1437 N. Wells St. (at W. Schiller St.). 312/587-3660. www.bistrotmargot.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $16–$26. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon 11:30am–9pm; Tues–Thurs 11:30am–10pm; Fri 11:30am–11pm; Sat 10am–11pm; Sun 10am–9pm. Subway/El: Red Line to Clark/Division, or Brown Line to Sedgwick.

Café Ba-Ba-Reeba! ★ SPANISH & TAPAS One of the city’s first tapas restaurants, Café Ba-Ba-Reeba! is still going strong decades later. The clientele at this vibrantly colored spot tends to be young and comes to the restaurant in groups, so be prepared: Loud conversations and tipsy toasts over pitchers of sangria may surround you. Tapas lovers will see plenty of old favorites on the menu, including spicy potatoes with tomato aioli, spinach, and Manchego-stuffed mushrooms; chicken and ham croquetas; and meatballs with sherry tomato sauce. For even more tasting possibilities, the restaurant offers “pinxtos,” which are even smaller than tapas and can be ordered individually or by the platter; bite-sized options include shrimp and egg salad on toast, Serrano ham and caramelized pineapple, and short rib–stuffed piquillo peppers. Got a bigger appetite? Dig into an entree-size portion of paella.

2024 N. Halsted St. (at Armitage Ave.). 773/935-5000. www.cafebabareeba.com. Reservations recommended on weekends. Tapas $4.50–$11; main courses $9–$30. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 4–10pm; Fri 4pm–midnight; Sat 11am–midnight; Sun 11am–10pm. Subway/El: Red or Brown line to Fullerton, or Brown Line to Armitage.

Twin Anchors ★ BARBECUE A landmark in Old Town since 1932, Twin Anchors manages to maintain the flavor of old Chicago. It’s a friendly, family-owned pub with Frank Sinatra songs on the jukebox and pictures of Ol’ Blue Eyes on the walls (he apparently hung out here on swings through town in the 1960s). But rather than striking a purposefully retro pose, this feels like the real deal, with a long mahogany bar up front and a modest dining room in back with red Formica-topped tables crowded close. Of course, you don’t need anything fancy when the ribs—the fall-off-the-bone variety—come this good. The only downside to Twin Anchors’ longtime success is that you’ll probably have a long wait on weekends. Ribs and other entrees come with coleslaw and dark rye bread, plus your choice of baked potato, tasty fries, and the even-better crisp onion rings. For dessert, there’s a daily cheesecake selection.

1655 N. Sedgwick St. (1 block north of North Ave.). 312/266-1616. www.twinanchorsribs.com. Reservations not accepted. Sandwiches $7–$11; main courses $13–$26. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 5–11pm; Fri 5pm–midnight; Sat noon–midnight; Sun noon–10:30pm. Subway/El: Brown Line to Sedgwick.

Inexpensive

Goose Island Brewing Company AMERICAN Some of the best beer in Chicago is produced at this microbrewery on the western edge of Old Town. Goose Island produces about 100 varieties of lagers and ales, which means you’re pretty much obligated to taste-test a few while you’re here (you can order samplers and flights if you’re not up for full pints). Cut-above bar food includes an excellent burger topped with Stilton cheese, a tasty barbecue pulled-pork sandwich, and rabbit sausage. Don’t skip the side dishes, either; the homemade potato chips and roasted beets with feta cheese are both deliciously addictive. While the loftlike, exposed-brick main room attracts mostly groups of 20- and 30-somethings, there’s also a separate dining area that’s a popular Sunday brunch spot for families. While the grownups sample lagers, the kids can order a glass of homemade root beer or orange soda.

Goose Island also has a more sports-oriented location near Wrigley Field, at 3535 N. Clark St. (& 773/832-9040).

1800 N. Clybourn Ave. (at Willow St.). 312/915-0071. www.gooseisland.com. Reservations accepted. Main courses $10–$18. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 11am–1am; Fri–Sat 11am–2am. Subway/El: Brown Line to Armitage.

La Creperie ★★ FRENCH Germain and Sara Roignant opened this intimate cafe in 1972, never straying from the reasonably priced crepes that won them a loyal following. Onion soup, pâté, and escargot are all good starters, but the highlights here are the whole-wheat crepes—prepared on a special grill that Germain imported from his native Brittany. Single-choice fillings include cheese, tomato, egg, or ham; tasty duets feature chicken and mushroom or broccoli and cheese. But I’d suggest going with the richer fillings, such as beef bourguignon, coq au vin, or curried chicken, for the best overall flavor. A popular combination is tomato, goat cheese, and chicken in a Dijon cream sauce. Don’t leave without sharing one of the dessert crepes, which tuck combinations of fruit, ice cream, peanut butter, Belgian chocolate, and Nutella within their warm folds.

2845 N. Clark St. (half-block north of Diversey Pkwy.). 773/528-9050. www.lacreperieusa.com. Reservations accepted for groups of 6 or more. Main courses $7–$15. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Tues–Fri 11:30am–11pm; Sat 11am–11pm; Sun 11am–9:30pm. Subway/El: Brown Line to Diversey.

Potbelly Sandwich Works FAST FOOD It doesn’t matter what time you stop by Potbelly; there’s usually a line of hungry 20- and 30-somethings waiting to get their fix (good thing the behind-the-counter staff is so fast). Yes, there’s a potbelly stove inside, along with other Old West saloon-type memorabilia, but fans come here for the made-to-order grilled sub sandwiches (that’s all they serve). Prepared on homemade rolls stuffed with your choice of turkey, Italian meats, veggies, pizza ingredients, and more, they’re warmed in a countertop toaster oven. Even with all the fixin’s, each is under $5 (unlike the massive subs found at other spots, Potbelly’s “Originals” are more the size of normal sandwiches; however, “Bigs” and “Skinnys” are also available). Though this is the original location, Potbelly has more than 30 others throughout the city, including 190 N. State St. (& 312/683-1234) and in the Westfield North Bridge shopping center, 520 N. Michigan Ave. (& 312/664-1008), both of which are convenient to the Loop and Mag Mile.

2264 N. Lincoln Ave. (btw. Belden Ave. and Webster St.). 773/528-1405. www.potbelly.com. Reservations not accepted. Sandwiches $4–$5.50. MC, V. Daily 11am–10pm. Subway/El: Brown or Red line to Fullerton.

RoseAngelis ★★ ITALIAN What keeps this off-the-beaten path spot busy year after year when there’s not exactly a shortage of Italian restaurants in Chicago? The reliably good food, warm ambience, and very reasonable prices—this is neighborhood dining at its best. Hidden on a Lincoln Park side street, the restaurant extends through a series of cozy rooms and garden patios (front and back). The menu emphasizes pasta (rich favorites include a dense lasagna and the ravioli al Luigi, served with a sun-dried-tomato cream sauce). While RoseAngelis is not a vegetarian restaurant, per se, there’s little red meat on the menu (a New York strip, and lamb and Italian sausages), and many of the pastas are served with vegetables rather than meat. Finish up with the deliciously decadent bread pudding with warm caramel sauce, which comes in a massive slice big enough to share. Stop by a weeknight to avoid the crowds (who wait up to 2 hr. for a table on weekends).

1314 W. Wrightwood Ave. (at Lakewood Ave.). 773/296-0081. www.roseangelis.com. Reservations accepted for parties of 8 or more. Main courses $11–$18. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Tues–Thurs 5–10pm; Fri–Sat 5–11pm; Sun 4:30–9pm. Subway/El: Brown or Red line to Fullerton.

A Taste of thai

Thai restaurants are to Chicago what Chinese restaurants are to many other American cities: ubiquitous, affordable, and perfect for a quick meal that offers a taste of the exotic. If you’ve never tried Thai, Chicago is a great place to start. Good introductory dishes are pad thai noodles topped with minced peanuts or the coconut-based mild yellow curry.

Arun’s ★★★ is the city’s reigning gourmet interpreter of Thai cuisine, but many other low-key places are scattered throughout the residential neighborhoods. Most entrees at these spots don’t cost much more $10. A staple of the River North dining scene is the bright and airy Star of Siam, 11 E. Illinois St., at North State Street (312/670-0100; www.starofsiamchicago.com). On the north end of the Gold Coast where it meets Old Town, Tiparos, 1540 N. Clark St. at North Avenue (312/712-9900; www.tiparosthai.com), is a very friendly place that features Thai textiles on its brick interior walls and serves delicious specialties such as massaman curry. Thai Classic, 3332 N. Clark St., at Roscoe Street (773/404-2000; www.thaiclassicrestaurant.com), conveniently located between the busy Belmont/Clark intersection and Wrigley Field, offers an excellent all-you-can-eat buffet on weekends if you want to try a taste of everything. While wandering the Lakeview neighborhood, a good stop for a quick, no-frills meal is the Bamee Noodle Shop, 3120 N. Broadway, at Wellington Street (773/281-2641; www.bameethai.com), which offers a wide selection of “Noodles on Plates” and “Noodles in Bowls,” as well as a number of soups and fried-rice combinations.

Wrigleyville & the North Side

For restaurants listed in this section, see the map “Restaurants in Lincoln Park, Old Town & Wrigleyville”.

The area surrounding Wrigley Field has a long history as a working-class neighborhood, and although housing prices are now beyond the reach of most blue-collar workers, the neighborhood still attracts hordes of recent college grads who prefer chicken wings to truffles. Overall, restaurants here are more affordable and low-key than downtown, though most aren’t worth a special trip if you’re staying elsewhere. Throughout the North Side—a catch phrase encompassing the neighborhoods north of Lincoln Park—you’ll find mostly casual, neighborhood restaurants and a good range of ethnic eats.

Very Expensive

Arun’s ★★★ THAI Yes, Arun’s is a Thai restaurant, but it’s in a whole different league from the noodle shops scattered around the city. Here chef/owner Arun Sampanthavivat prepares a refined version of traditional Thai cuisine: authentic, flavorful, and beautifully presented. Rather than order individual entrees, diners feast on a 12-course chef’s menu served family-style, with the dishes varying from night to night (there’s also a seven-course menu available Tues–Thurs 5–7pm). You might see courses of delicate dumplings accented with edible, carved dough flowers; traditional spring rolls with morsels of Dungeness crabmeat and filled with seasoned tofu; spicy pork served on an aromatic grilled sweet pepper; or Panang beef curry. The service is as impeccable as the food, and if guests in your group have different tolerances to spicy food, they’ll customize each plate and ingredients accordingly. The only downside to Arun’s is its out-of-the-way location. You can get here by public transportation, but I recommend a taxi at night.

4156 N. Kedzie Ave. (at Irving Park Rd.). 773/539-1909. www.arunsthai.com. Reservations required with credit card. 12-course chef’s menu $85; 7-course chef’s menu $65. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Tues–Thurs 5–10pm; Fri–Sat 5–10:30pm; Sun 5–10pm. Subway/El and bus: Brown Line to Irving Park, and then transfer to westbound bus 80, or take a cab.

Expensive

Yoshi’s Café BISTRO Yoshi Katsumura has been a familiar name in the Chicago restaurant scene for years, and this casual bistro has been a neighborhood favorite for more than 2 decades (meaning you may wait for a table during prime weekend hours). The simple, neutral-toned dining room may look straightforward, but the menu is an intriguingly creative mix of Yoshi’s native Japan and his French training. For an appetizer, tuna tartare is served on top of homemade guacamole and accompanied by tortilla chips and an oyster shooter with sake, jalapeño, and a salty-sweet sauce made from Japanese yuzu fruit; Japanese pumpkin ravioli is served with creamy garlic goat cheese sauce and herb-infused oil. Entrees include steak frites au poivre and grilled Australian lamp chops. There are always a number of vegetarian options, ranging from pasta to grilled tofu with brie and basil, topped with sweet-sesame paste and miso sauce. While the food is certainly a draw, it’s the friendly, personal service that has turned many Wrigleyville residents into regulars.

3257 N. Halsted St. (at Aldine St.). 773/248-6160. www.yoshiscafe.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $15–$27. AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Thurs 5–10:30pm; Fri–Sat 5–11pm; Sun 11am–2:30pm and 5–9:30pm. Subway/El: Brown or Red line to Belmont.

Moderate

Mia Francesca ★★ ITALIAN Though it’s been open since 1992, Mia Francesca remains a hot dining spot—one that has spawned close to 20 sister restaurants throughout the city and suburbs. The restaurant’s clean, modern take on the Italian trattoria concept attracts lots of local singles and couples, and the affordable prices keep them coming back. The food—unpretentious but never dull—includes a range of homemade pastas, thin-crust pizzas, chicken, veal, and standout seafood (even if you don’t usually order fish in an Italian restaurant, it’s worth trying here). Tables are packed close together, so you can’t help eavesdropping on your neighbors—and checking out their food. Yes, it does get loud, but the place has an undeniable energy.

You’ll find mostly the same menu at the other Francesca’s locations in the city: Francesca’s on Chestnut, 200 E. Chestnut St., just off the Magnificent Mile (& 312/482-8800); Francesca’s on Taylor, 1400 W. Taylor St., in Little Italy (& 312/829-2828); and Francesca’s Bryn Mawr, 1039 W. Bryn Mawr Ave., north of Wrigleyville (& 773/506-9261).

3311 N. Clark St. (1½ blocks north of Belmont Ave.). 773/281-3310. www.miafrancesca.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $13–$22. AE, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 5–10pm; Fri–Sat 5–11pm; Sat–Sun 11:30am–2pm. Subway/El: Brown or Red line to Belmont.

Inexpensive

Ann Sather ★★ AMERICAN/BREAKFAST/BRUNCH/SWEDISH This is a real Chicago institution, with an old-fashioned diner-look to match. You can’t go wrong ordering one of the Swedish specialties—such as meatballs with buttered noodles and brown gravy, or the Swedish sampler of duck breast with lingonberry glaze, meatball, potato-sausage dumpling, sauerkraut, and brown beans—but there are plenty of American choices, too, from catfish and crab cakes to pork chops and shepherd’s pie. Sather’s popular (and very affordable) weekend brunch can get frenzied, but you should be okay if you arrive before 11am. The restaurant’s sticky cinnamon rolls are definitely a highlight (if you crave more—and you probably will—you can buy them at a counter up front on your way out). Sather’s attracts a truly diverse crowd, and the people-watching at brunch is especially priceless: a cross-section of gay and straight, young and old, from club kids to elderly couples and families.

There are smaller cafes with similar menus at 3411 N. Broadway (& 773/305-0024) and 3416 N. Southport Ave. (& 773/404-4475).

929 W. Belmont Ave. (btw. Clark St. and Sheffield Ave.). 773/348-2378. www.annsather.com. Reservations accepted for parties of 6 or more. Main courses $7–$11 breakfast and lunch; $11–$15 dinner. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 7am–3pm; Sat–Sun 7am–4pm. Free parking with validation. Subway/El: Brown or Red line to Belmont.

Penny’s Noodle Shop ★ ASIAN/THAI Penny Chiamopoulous, a Thai native, has assembled a concise menu of delectable dishes, all of them fresh and made to order—and all at prices that will make you do a double take. The two dining rooms are clean and spare; single diners can usually find a seat along the bar that wraps around the grill. The Thai spring roll, filled with seasoned tofu, cucumber, bean sprouts, and strips of cooked egg, makes a refreshing starter. Of course, noodles unite everything on the menu, so your main decision is choosing among the options (crispy wide rice, rice vermicelli, Japanese udon, and so on) served in a soup or spread out on a plate.

The original Penny’s, tucked under the El tracks at 3400 N. Sheffield Ave., near Wrigley Field (& 773/281-8222), is smaller and often has long waits. You stand a better chance of scoring a table at the Diversey Avenue location or the one in Wicker Park at 1542 N. Damen Ave. (at W. Pierce Ave.; & 773/394-0100).

950 W. Diversey Ave. (at Sheffield St.). 773/281-8448. www.pennysnoodleshop.com. Reservations not accepted. Main courses $5.50–$8.50. MC, V. Sun–Thurs 11am–10pm; Fri–Sat 11am–10:30pm. Subway/El: Brown Line to Diversey.

Wicker Park/Bucktown

The booming Wicker Park/Bucktown area followed closely on the heels of Lincoln Park and Wrigleyville in the race to gentrification. First came the artists and musicians, followed by armies of yuppies and young families—all attracted by cheap rents and real estate. The result is a well-established, happening scene, which includes some of the city’s hippest restaurants and clubs. Get yourself to the nexus of activity at the intersection of North, Damen, and Milwaukee avenues, and you won’t have to walk more than a couple of blocks in any direction to find a hot spot. Cab fares from downtown are reasonable, or you can take the El’s Blue Line to Damen.

Expensive

Mirai Sushi ★★ JAPANESE/SUSHI Blending a serious devotion to sushi and sake with a decidedly youthful, funky-chic ambience, Mirai is a hot destination for cold raw fish (though it serves other Japanese fare as well). The futuristic second-floor lounge is the hippest place in town to slurp down sushi, chilled sakes, and “red ones,” the house cocktail of vodka with passion fruit, lime, and cranberry juices. The bright main-floor dining room offers a comparatively traditional environment. Fish is flown in daily for the sushi bar, where several chefs are hard at work master-crafting a lovely list of offerings—from the beginner sushi standards such as California rolls and ebi (boiled shrimp) to escalating classifications of tuna (including toro, or fatty tuna), three types of salmon, red snapper, caviar, and four different roes.

2020 W. Division St. (at Damen Ave.). 773/862-8500. www.miraisushi.com. Reservations recommended on weekends. Sushi $2–$6 per piece. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Wed 5–10pm; Thurs–Sat 5–11pm; Sun 5–10pm. Upstairs lounge until 2am. Subway/El: Blue Line to Division.

Moderate

Club Lucky ★ ITALIAN Club Lucky is the 21st-century re-creation of a ’50s-era corner tavern, with an Italian mamma cooking up family recipes in the back. The Naugahyde banquettes and Formica-topped bar and tables give the place a fun retro flair. The scene here changes throughout the evening: Young families gradually give way to stylish couples posing with glasses of the restaurant’s signature martinis (be prepared to wait on weekends). The menu offers real Italian home-style cooking, such as the giant meant-to-be-shared calamari appetizer; pasta e fagioli (a thick macaroni-and-bean soup that’s actually closer to a stew); homemade tortellini filled with chicken and herbs, served with English peas and pine nuts in vodka sauce; and spicy grilled boneless pork chops served with peppers and roasted potatoes. The lunch menu includes about a dozen Italian sandwiches, such as scrambled eggs and pesto, meatball, and Italian sausage.

1824 W. Wabansia Ave. (1 block north of North Ave., btw. Damen and Ashland aves.). 773/227-2300. www.clubluckychicago.com. Reservations accepted. Sandwiches $8–$11; main courses $10–$36. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Tues 11:30am–10pm; Wed–Thurs 11:30am–10pm; Fri 11:30am–11pm; Sat 5–11pm; Sun 10:30–2:30 and 3:30–10pm; cocktail lounge later. Subway/El: Blue Line to Damen.

Hot Chocolate ★ AMERICAN Owner Mindy Segal built her reputation as a pastry chef, so no matter what you order here, make sure you save room for dessert. Though it has the sleek, contemporary look of a late-night lounge, the menu focuses on comfort food prepared with upscale, seasonal ingredients. The Tuna Melt, for example, comes with wild capers and havarti cheese on a fresh-baked baguette, while a brined and grilled pork chop is served with house-made pork sausage with sauerkraut, apples, and fennel. There’s also a wide selection of specialty ales, lagers, and wines aimed at late-night diners. However, desserts are the main event here. They range from warm brioche doughnuts served with caramel corn and hot fudge to a gourmet take on peanut butter cups, accompanied by rich peanut butter cookie-dough truffles. You can even order a flight of homemade ice creams. In the winter, finish up with a cup of the signature hot chocolate.

1747 N. Damen Ave. (at Willow St.). 773/489-1747. Reservations accepted for dinner only. www.hotchocolatechicago.com. Main courses $10–$13 lunch, $12–$27 dinner. AE, MC, V. Tues 5:30–10pm; Wed 11:30am–2pm and 5:30–10pm; Thurs 11:30am–2pm and 5:30–11pm; Fri 11:30am–2pm and 5:30pm–midnight; Sat 10am–2pm and 5:30–midnight; Sun 10am–2pm and 5:30–10pm. Subway/El: Blue Line to Damen.

Jane’s ★ AMERICAN Jane’s may be overlooked by dining critics, but that does not mean snagging a table at this cozy charmer is easy. On the contrary; this is a hugely popular destination among Wicker Park/Bucktown locals, who’d prefer to keep it a secret. (Wait for your table at the friendly Bucktown Pub across the street.) Ensconced in an old house, Jane’s encompasses two distinct dining rooms—the first with simple wood tables running parallel to the front bar; and a brighter back room, where the white furniture and floors create the feel of an elegant ice-cream parlor. (In the summer, a few tables are set up on an outside patio.) The dinner menu offers upscale comfort food, including both meat (ancho barbecue spare rib with grilled pineapple and coleslaw) and vegetarian options (goat cheese, tofu, and veggie burrito). Creative sandwich options are offered at lunch, such as seared marlin topped with tarragon aioli.

1655 W. Cortland St. (1 block west of Ashland Ave.). 773/862-5263. www.janesrestaurant.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $14–$24. AE, MC, V. Tues–Thurs 5–10pm; Fri 11am–3pm and 5–10pm; Sat–Sun 8am–10pm. Subway/El: Blue Line to Damen.

Le Bouchon ★★ BISTRO/FRENCH Jean-Claude Poilevey’s tiny storefront restaurant is popular for both its intimate yet boisterous atmosphere and affordable, authentic bistro fare. Whatever the season, the food here is fairly heavy, although specials are lighter in warmer months. Poilevey could pack this place every night just with regulars addicted to the house specialty of roast duck for two, bathed in Grand Marnier–orange marmalade sauce. The fare covers bistro basics, with tasty versions of steak frites, sautéed rabbit in white wine sauce, veal kidneys in mustard sauce, and beef Bourguignon, most affordably priced at around $20; there’s also a $25-per-person prix-fixe menu. The piped-in music and voices from the closely packed tables create an atmosphere that some perceive as convivial, and others as claustrophobic and noisy. There’s a small bar where you can wait—something you might have to do even if you have a reservation.

1958 N. Damen Ave. (at Armitage Ave.). 773/862-6600. www.lebouchonofchicago.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $12–$15 lunch; $14–$24 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11:30–2:30pm; Mon–Thurs 5:30–10pm; Fri–Sat 5–11pm. Subway/El: Blue Line to Damen, and then a short cab ride.

hold the meat, Please

Yes, Chicago may have a reputation as a carnivore’s paradise, but that doesn’t mean vegetarians should stuff their bags with dried tofu before coming here. In recent years, more and more local restaurants have made an effort to accommodate non–meat eaters. While you can order a green salad or vegetable pasta almost anywhere, here are some places where veggie offerings are the main event.

At Green Zebra (1460 W. Chicago Ave. [at Greenview St.]; 312/243-7100; www.greenzebrachicago.com), the menu is almost exclusively meat-free, and the creative small-plates menu gives diners a wide range of flavors to sample. Reza’s ★★, a sprawling Middle Eastern spot in River North, may specialize in giant mixed-meat kebabs, but their vegetarian plates are generous, flavorful mixes of hummus, tabbouleh, and other traditional dishes, nicely presented in red bento boxes. At the Southern spot Wishbone ★★, in the West Loop, veggie lovers can create their own sampler plates by selecting from a wide range of side dishes.

Going vegetarian also doesn’t mean giving up on gourmet dining. Two of the city’s best, most creative chefs in town—Charlie Trotter ★★, in River North, chef Suzy Crofton always includes a few meat-free options on her nightly menu. (She’ll customize them for vegans, too.) In Wrigleyville, chef Yoshi Katsumura of Yoshi’s Café also offers a regular selection of vegetarian dishes featuring his signature blend of French and Asian flavors.

Vegans may find their options extremely limited on most menus, but local holistic health devotee Karyn Calabrese operates two vegan-friendly restaurants. Karyn’s Raw, 1901 N. Halsted St. (312/255-1590), in Old Town, encompasses both a casual cafe and juice bar and a white-tablecloth restaurant specializing in raw food; Karyn’s Cooked, 738 N. Wells St. (312/587-1050), in River North, offers globally inspired vegan dishes. You can check out both menus at www.karynraw.com. Farther north in Wrigleyville, The Chicago Diner, 3411 N. Halsted St. (773/935-6696; www.veggiediner.com), might sound like the kind of place you load up on greasy burgers, but it’s actually one of the city’s best and longest-lasting vegetarian restaurants. (Most dishes are vegan, too.) The wide-ranging menu includes salads, sandwiches (including a “California Reuben” with seitan instead of corned beef), tacos, and pastas; for dessert, try a peanut butter or vanilla chai vegan milkshake.

Inexpensive

Northside Café AMERICAN Among the best cheap eats in the neighborhood, Northside cooks up great oversized burgers, sandwiches, and salads—most for $10 or less. This is strictly neighborhood dining, without attitude and little in the way of decor; the back dining room looks like a rec room circa 1973, complete with a fireplace, video games, and a pool table. In nice weather, Northside opens up its large front patio for dining, and a sky-lit cover keeps it in use during the winter. You’re always sure to be entertained by people-watching here, as Northside attracts all sorts. During the week, the cafe is a neighborhood hangout, while on weekends groups of friends from Lincoln Park and the suburbs pile in. A limited late-night menu is available from 10pm to 1:30am.

1635 N. Damen Ave. (at North and Milwaukee aves.). 773/384-3555. www.northsidechicago.com. Reservations not accepted. Menu items $8–$15. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11am–2am; Sat 10:30am–3am; Sun 10:30am–2am. Subway/El: Blue Line to Damen.

Piece ★ AMERICAN/PIZZA Piece finally proved to deep-dish-loving Chicago-ans that thin-crust pizza deserves respect. The large, airy dining room—a former garage that’s been outfitted with dark wood tables and ceiling beams—is flooded with light from the expansive skylights overhead; even when it’s packed, the soaring space above keeps the place from feeling too crowded. Piece offers a selection of salads and sandwiches on satisfyingly crusty bread, but crunchy, super-thin-crust pizza in the style of New Haven, Connecticut (hometown of one of the owners), is the house specialty. Pick from four styles—plain (tomato sauce and garlic), red (tomato sauce and mozzarella), white (olive oil, garlic, and mozzarella), or barbecue (smoked barbecue sauce and mozzarella), then add on your favorite toppings. Sausage and/or spinach work well with the plain or red, but the adventurous should sample a more offbeat choice: clam and bacon on white pizza.

1927 W. North Ave. (at Milwaukee Ave.). 773/772-4422. www.piecechicago.com. Reservations accepted for groups of 10 or more. Pizza $11–$17. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Wed 11am–10:30pm; Thurs 10:30am–11pm; Fri–Sat 11am–12:30am; Sun 11am–10pm. Subway/El: Blue Line to Damen.

Silver Cloud ★★ AMERICAN The motto of this casual cafe is “Food like Mom would make if she was gettin’ paid.” Indeed, Silver Cloud is comfort food central, with a laid-back pub-meets-diner decor and suitably laid back clientele. If intimate conversation is your priority, try to snag one of the roomy red-leather booths. While the food isn’t extraordinary, the restaurant does deliver consistently reliable home-style favorites: chicken potpie, grilled-cheese sandwiches with tomato soup, pot roast, sloppy Joes with a side of tater tots, s’mores, and root beer floats. While Silver Cloud attracts a mix of families, couples, and groups of friends during the day and early evening hours, it becomes more of a cocktail lounge at night. A warning for those with sensitive ears: The jukebox volume gets turned up at night, too. The Sunday brunch is especially popular; the “Hangover Helpers” attract a fair amount of hip young things recovering from nightly adventures.

1700 N. Damen Ave. (at Wabansia St.). 773/489-6212. www.silvercloudchicago.com. Main courses $6–$10 lunch, $10–$16 dinner. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 11:30am–11pm; Fri 11:30am–midnight; Sat–Sun 10am–11pm. Bar stays open later every night except Sun. Subway/El: Blue Line to Damen.

Restaurants by Cuisine

Alsatian

Everest ★★★ ($$$$)

American

Ann Sather ★★ ($)

Atwood Café ★★ ($$$)

The Berghoff ★ ($$)

Bin 36 ★★ ($$$)

Boka ★ ($$$)

Carson’s ★ ($$)

Charlie’s Ale House ($)

Charlie’s Ale House at Navy Pier ($)

Crofton on Wells ★★ ($$$$)

Custom House Tavern ★★ ($$$)

Dave & Buster’s ($)

Ditka’s ★ ($$$)

The Gage ★ ($$$)

Girl and the Goat ★ ($$$)

Goose Island Brewing Company ($)

Graham Elliot ★★ ($$$$)

Harry Caray’s Italian Steakhouse ($$$)

Hot Chocolate ★ ($$)

Hot Doug’s ($)

HUB 51 ★★ ($$)

Jane’s ★ ($$)

Lou Mitchell’s ($)

mk ★★★ ($$$$)

Moody’s ($)

Naha ★★ ($$$$)

Nine ★ ($$$)

North Pond ★★★ ($$$$)

Northside Café ($)

Oak Street Beachstro ($$)

Oak Tree ★ ($)

O’Brien’s Restaurant ($)

one sixtyblue ★★ ($$$$)

Orange ($)

Park Grill ★★ ($$$)

Perennial Virant ★★ ($$$)

Petterino’s ★★ ($$$)

Piece ★ ($)

Portillo’s ★★ ($)

Rhapsody ★★ ($$$)

Rockit Bar & Grill ★ ($$)

Sable Kitchen & Bar ★ ($$)

Sepia ★★★ ($$$)

The Signature Room at the 95th ★ ($$$)

Silver Cloud ★★ ($)

South Water Kitchen ★ ($$$)

Superdawg Drive-In ($)

Table Fifty-Two ★ ($$$)

Tavern at the Park ★ ($$$)

Toast ($)

ZED 451 ★★ ($$$)

Asian

Penny’s Noodle Shop ★ ($)

Barbecue

Carson’s ★ ($$)

Chicago q ★★ ($$)

Twin Anchors ★ ($$)

Bistro

Bistronomic ★★ ($$)

Bistrot Margot ★★ ($$)

Cyrano’s Bistrot & Wine Bar ★ ($$)

La Sardine ★ ($$$)

Le Bouchon ★★ ($$)

Mon Ami Gabi ★ ($$$)

The Publican ★ ($$$)

Yoshi’s Café ($$$)

Breakfast/Brunch/Bakery

Ann Sather ★★ ($)

The Café, Four Seasons Hotel ($$$)

Drake Bros. Restaurant, The Drake Hotel ($$)

Earwax Café ($)

Eli’s Bakery ($)

House of Blues ($$)

Lou Mitchell’s ($)

Nookies ($)

Orange ($)

Toast ($)

Wishbone ★★ ($)

Cajun & Creole

Heaven on Seven ★★ ($)

House of Blues ($$)

Californian

Puck’s at the MCA ($)

Chinese

Happy Chef ($)

Phoenix ($$)

Saint’s Alp Teahouse ($)

Shiu Wah ($)

Won Kow ($)

Diner

Ed Debevic’s ($)

Heaven on Seven ★★ ($)

Lou Mitchell’s ($)

Nookies ($)

Fast Food

Billy Goat Tavern ★ ($)

foodlife ★★ ($)

Gold Coast Dogs ($)

Mr. Beef ★ ($)

Murphy’s Red Hots ($)

Portillo’s ★★ ($)

Potbelly Sandwich Works ($)

Superdawg Drive-In ($)

The Wieners Circle ($)

Fondue

Geja’s Cafe ★ ($$$$)

French

Bistro 110 ($$$)

Bistronomic ★★ ($$)

Bistrot Margot ★★ ($$)

Cyrano’s Bistrot & Wine Bar ★ ($$)

Everest ★★★ ($$$$)

La Creperie ★★ ($)

La Sardine ★ ($$$)

Le Bouchon ★★ ($$)

Le Colonial ★★ ($$)

Mon Ami Gabi ★ ($$$)

Tru ★★★ ($$$$)

German

The Berghoff ★ ($$)

Greek

Artopolis ($)

Athena ★ ($$)

Costas ($$)

Greek Islands ($$)

Parthenon ($$)

Pegasus ($$)

Santorini ($$)

Indian

Vermilion ★ ($$$)

Irish

The Gage ★ ($$$)

Italian

Buca di Beppo ($$)

Club Lucky ★ ($$)

Davanti Enoteca ($$)

Francesca’s on Taylor ($$)

Gene & Georgetti ★ ($$$)

Gioco ★ ($$$)

Harry Caray’s Italian Steakhouse ($$$)

The Italian Village ★ ($$)

Maggiano’s ($)

Mia Francesca ★★ ($$)

Osteria Via Stato ★★ ($$$)

RoseAngelis ★★ ($)

Rosebud on Taylor ★ ($$)

Spiaggia ★★★ ($$$$)

312 Chicago ★ ($$$)

Trattoria No. 10 ($$$)

Tuscany ($$)

Japanese

Mirai Sushi ★★ ($$$)

Sushi Wabi ★ ($$$)

Latin American

Carnivale ★ ($$$)

Nacional 27 ★ ($$$)

SushiSamba Rio ★★ ($$$)

Vermilion ★ ($$$)

Mediterranean

Avec ★ ($$)

The Purple Pig ★★ ($$)

Mexican

Adobo Grill ($$)

Café Jumping Bean ($)

Frontera Grill, Topolobampo & Xoco ★★★ ($$$)

Nuevo Leon ($)

Middle Eastern

Reza’s ★★ ($$)

New American

Alinea ★★★ ($$$$)

Blackbird ★★★ ($$$$)

Charlie Trotter’s ★★★ ($$$$)

Moto ★★★ ($$$$)

Next ★★★ ($$$)

Tru ★★★ ($$$$)

Zealous ★★★ ($$$$)

Pizza

Chicago Pizza & Oven Grinder ($)

Edwardo’s ($)

Gino’s East ★★ ($$)

Giordano’s ($)

Lou Malnati’s Pizzeria ★ ($)

Piece ★ ($)

Pizzeria Due ($)

Pizzeria Uno ★ ($)

Polish

Red Apple ($)

Russian

Russian Tea Time ★★ ($$$)

Seafood

Cape Cod Room ($$$$)

La Cantina Enoteca ($$)

L20 ★★★ ($$$$)

Shaw’s Crab House ★★ ($$)

Southern

House of Blues ($$)

Wishbone ★★ ($)

Spanish & Tapas

Café Ba-Ba-Reeba! ★ ($$)

Café Iberico ★★ ($)

Mercat a la Planxa ★★ ($$$)

Tapas Gitana ★ ($)

Steak

Chicago Cut Steakhouse ★★ ($$$)

Ditka’s ★ ($$$)

Gene & Georgetti ★ ($$$)

Gibsons Bar & Steakhouse ★★ ($$$$)

Harry Caray’s Italian Steakhouse ($$$)

Morton’s ★★ ($$$$)

Nine ★ ($$$)

Petterino’s ★★ ($$$)

Sushi

Mirai Sushi ★★ ($$$)

SushiSamba Rio ★★ ($$$)

Sushi Wabi ★ ($$$)

Swedish

Ann Sather ★★ ($)

Tea

The Greenhouse, Ritz-Carlton Hotel ($$$)

The Lobby, The Peninsula Hotel ($$$)

Palm Court, The Drake Hotel ($$$)

Russian Tea Time ★★ ($$$)

Seasons Lounge, Four Seasons Hotel ($$$)

Thai

Arun’s ★★★ ($$$$)

Bamee Noodle Shop ($)

Penny’s Noodle Shop ★ ($)

Star of Siam ($)

Thai Classic ($)

Tiparos ($)

Vegetarian

Green Zebra ($)

Karyn’s Cooked ($)

Karyn’s Raw ($)

The Chicago Diner ($)

Vietnamese

Le Colonial ★★ ($$)

New on the Scene

To find out more about restaurants that have opened since this book went to press, check out the Chicago Tribune’s entertainment website (www.metromix.com), the websites for the monthly magazine Chicago (www.chicagomag.com) and the weekly Time Out Chicago (www.timeoutchicago.com), and the local foodie website LTH Forum (www.lthforum.com/bb/index.php).

Practical Information

The Big Picture

Most restaurants in Chicago are open 7 days a week. A few in the Loop are closed on Sunday evenings, while some others are closed on Mondays (traditionally a slow night). In general, Chicago is not a late-night dining town. Most locals head out to dinner between 6 and 7pm, and the majority of restaurants are closed by 10pm on weeknights and 11pm on weekends. If you plan on heading out for a late dinner, you should definitely check the restaurant’s closing time first.

A few restaurants with popular bar areas—such as Rockit Bar and Grill and HUB 51—keep their kitchens open until midnight or later on weekends. For suggestions on where to eat when most other restaurants have closed, see “Late-Night Bites,” in chapter 9.

Overall, the restaurant scene in Chicago is casual; the locals go out to enjoy their food, not to score style points or check each other out. Only a handful of restaurants require jackets for men; even ties are optional at all but the most formal places. A business-casual look is appropriate for just about every restaurant in town, and at the moderately priced places, most customers show up in jeans and sneakers. That said, the higher the average entrée price, the more you’re expected to make a modest effort: Showing up at Alinea or Blackbird in scuffed Nikes or shorts won’t impress the waitstaff or your fellow diners.

Getting the Best Deal

Prices at Chicago restaurants are among the highest in the country. But there are a few ways you can bring down the price of your bill. The website Restaurant.com allows members to purchase $25 worth of gift certificates to select restaurants for only $10; it’s free to join, and there are usually a few dozen places in Chicago to choose from.

It’s also worth checking a restaurant’s website to see if they’re offering any discounts or specials; occasionally, restaurants will also post coupons online.

Restaurants that cater to the theater-going crowd in the Loop sometimes offer prix-fixe meals that cost less than ordering the same courses separately. Such deals tend to be available in the early evening, before the main dinner rush.